Official LG XXLD450 Thread - Page 52 - AVS Forum
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post #1531 of 1549 Old 03-21-2012, 03:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post

On 120Hz sets, Real Cinema takes 24p material and displays each frame 5 times to maintain the natural cadence of the film. On a 60Hz set, each frame is displayed twice to keep the 48Hz refresh rate. TruMotion, which you may be confusing Real Cinema with, interpolates the motion between the frames, hence the SOE (soap opera effect). For movies, leave Real Cinema on and TruMotion off. The Real Cinema setting only works when 24p material is presented, so even if the setting is not grayed out (which I think is the case with my LD520 while viewing OTA), it has no effect. However, if you're using your computer as the source, it sounds like there may be some sort of incompatibility between your graphics card and the LG causing them to be slightly out of sync with each other. My BD player outputs at the correct rate without any adjustments and my LG displays 24p when presented.

All I know is that once I play a video using MPC-HC and MadVR kicks in, it sets the desktop refresh rate at 24p and the TV info says that the resolution and refresh rate is indeed at 1080/24p, which turns Real Cinema on. I'm not sure about the TruMotion stuff since I can't seem to find it in the menu.
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post #1532 of 1549 Old 03-31-2012, 05:48 AM
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Can anyone recommend some audio settings? I've got a separate amp I'll soon be connecting, and the set does seem to have got better over the last 2 days of watching it, but just interested if anyone's got some alternatives?
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post #1533 of 1549 Old 04-21-2012, 10:17 AM
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Hi!

I'll buy a 42 LG LCD, current available models in Argentina are:

42LD460 (2010-11)
42LD650 (2010-11)
42LD655 (2011?)
42LK450 (2011-12)

LK450 being the most widely available nowadays.

- Main Use: Blu-Ray 24fps from Pioneer BR
- Secondary Use: HDTV
- Third Use: STD (PAL-N 50hz)
- I won't use it for gaming/120hz/sports...

Questions:
- Any reason not to buy LK450 and look for any of the others?
- LK450 IPS code is W or Y?
- Any tip on the best model with lowest clouding/best contrast-black levels/color reproduction (after calibration)


Thank you!
Luis
Argentina
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post #1534 of 1549 Old 06-06-2012, 10:12 AM
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Long time no post... I have a feeling I knew this at some point, but have just now started tweaking my display settings again to nail down a perfect setting for my Wii (Xenoblade Chronicles convinced me to dust it off).

What's the difference between Expert1 and Expert2?

I gave them identical settings as a starting point for customizing Expert2, and noticed they look quite different...
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post #1535 of 1549 Old 11-27-2012, 11:42 PM
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Hey everyone, I know im Resurrection this dead thread but this is an amazing find for Nvidia users with HDMI-HDMI connection. I still use my 37LD450 daily as my PC monitor but after switching to Windows 8 I had some issues with getting the EDID fix to stick. I found this quote on the chroma thread and Im surprised no one reposted it.

Essentially it lets you have HDMI -> HDMI with 4:4:4 & audio both at the same time. The best part is that it takes 10 seconds to do and does not require any EDID fixes etc.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MDA400 View Post

Hello everyone.
Just joined to say that for 5 months now i have gotten 4:4:4 Full RGB to work with an HDMI-to-HDMI cable on an LG 32LD450 (very similar to the 32LK450, but its the 2010 model).
This trick only works with an Nvidia card, but that's the brand that has the problem everyone is trying to figure out anyways (my laptop's ATI/AMD chip allows me to select Full 4:4:4 RGB without this trick and it works).
You go to your resolutions page in the Nvidia Control Panel and you select the "Customize" button at the bottom. Create a new resolution (preferably your native resolution) and expand the timing field at the bottom of the window so you can see the more detailed active pixel count and refresh rate timings.
Choose MANUAL as the timing standard and ONLY manually change the refresh rate at the bottom so it reads 60.001hz (or 120.001, 50.001, etc.) instead of 60.000hz (60hz).
What this does is it throws of the EDID chip in your TV and bypasses the nature in which your EDID treats a signal from an HDMI cable. After doing this, you will notice your whites just got whiter and blacks are blacker-er (lol).
ALL WHILE PRESERVING AUDIO!
So for all of you with HDMI receivers used in conjunction with your PC, you can now use your HDMI cable with audio without having to do the registry tweak or use a DVI-to-HDMI cable.
This ONLY works for HDMI-to-HDMI. If you do this on a DVI connection (DVI-to-DVI or DVI-HDMI), you will get artifacts and your PQ will become corrupted until you change back. Its just the difference of how HDMI handles timings.
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post #1536 of 1549 Old 12-30-2012, 11:58 AM
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Some settings to try. Everything is default expert 1 Temp setting warm.

42LD450 with calman c3 meter perfect greyscale.
100 -50 1 10
90 -21 -6 24
80 -20 -3 24
70 -19 -6 20
60 -14 -2 19
50 -11 -2 18
40 -6 0 18
30 -3 3 16
20 0 5 14
10 1 4 5
0 N/A

ÂI felt that here at last was a chance to expose the U.S. public to fine art at reasonable pricesÂ
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post #1537 of 1549 Old 08-15-2013, 09:32 AM
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Just an update on my LG. I think I'm up to over 5000 hours and not missing a beat. Been a great TV that I also use as my PC monitor.
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post #1538 of 1549 Old 08-15-2013, 11:16 AM
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^^^ good to hear. My LD520 (S-IPS panel) has been in constant use for almost 2.5 years (haven't checked the hours of use lately) and looks as crisp and clear as the day I took it out of the box and calibrated it.
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post #1539 of 1549 Old 10-22-2013, 01:55 PM
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Hello to everyone, my TV LG 32LD450 appears the following problem, about ten days after the warranty has expired (probably the problem was under warranty but unfortunately at that time I was away on vacation..) in the lower bottom of the screen (2cm approx.) freezes the picture for a while and then comes back with a result to be very tiring especially when you read subtitles!

The official LG service told me that the problem was caused due to the panel and of course I am not willing to change it...
I would appreciate any suggestions anyone has to tell me but I have come to the conclusion that the only thing that would diminish the problem is to raise the screen up to 1cm, not from the TV menu, since this setting is not good enough, but through the Service Menu (EZ-Adjust Mode) Vertical & Horizontally adjustment, although I don’t know which setting to adjust.

Thank you in advance for your interest!

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post #1540 of 1549 Old 10-22-2013, 08:50 PM
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Under Picture Mode, what do you have it set at? I use Just Scan which is 1:1 pixel matching.
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post #1541 of 1549 Old 10-23-2013, 08:23 AM
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How do you mean????

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post #1542 of 1549 Old 10-24-2013, 02:33 AM
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Nobody who knows anything about this problem???

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post #1543 of 1549 Old 11-03-2013, 01:56 PM
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Remote's Q-Menu > Aspect Ratio > Cinama Zoom - adjust zoom level / horz./vert.

The post above suggest to try "Just Scan" aspect ratio... also available via the Q-Menu;
this is the most accurate (1:1) aspect ratio - good for DVD, Bluray source.

Also try 16:9... I have my cable TV source to this to eliminate broadcast TV underscan;
the 16:9 might zoom you in just enough so that your glitch is outside the visible area.
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post #1544 of 1549 Old 11-03-2013, 02:24 PM
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@elcreco101 - see one post above this

I came to see if anyone had put up a new 10-point (Calman/Lightspace) setting... vincentprice's above is the last and good (I think).

I have discovered that LGs gamma default of 2.2 is not correct - from TV calibrators on this forum.
It was suggested to me to use gamma 1.9 as that is actually a real gamma 2.2 on LGs... of course adjust the TV's
brightness for this gamma. I do believe that the 450's gamma is more correct using 1.9. Try it, really.

Because I now use the gamma 1.9 setting, I wonder if the 10-point (vincentprice's above) is off because of that...?

Also on this forum, find AVS HD-709 and adjust your TV with this free basics tool.
Our TV can look as good as more costly sets, IMHO!
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post #1545 of 1549 Old 11-03-2013, 03:58 PM
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The AVS-HD709 disk quoted above is an excellent, free, disk to use to accurately adjust your picture settings. I used it on my LD520 when I first got it a few years back to get started and the change, for the better, was remarkable. Calibrating my set later on, using the 2.2 gamma fine tuned it even more. If you can't calibrate it (either DIY or by a paid professional), I'd use any one of the calibration disks, like the AVS-HD709 disk, and accurately adjust your tv instead of using someone else's settings.
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post #1546 of 1549 Old 11-08-2013, 12:51 AM
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Thanks for the advice, I'll test it..

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post #1547 of 1549 Old 03-10-2014, 02:06 PM
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Hi there .. I have a 32LD450 that I only use to play with my xbox 360.
I noticed that when both the tv and the xbox are already on, I can reduce the input lag significantly if I simply go to the settings menu and change one of various settings on my TV. I usually just go to the quick menu and change from "just scan" to "original" or from "original" to "just scan" and its good to go, the input lag instantly diminishes a lot .

But I don't understand why this happens and I really would like to know if there is a permanent fix for this issue.

(I use hdmi cable and 720p resolution selected on the console and on the tv i use the game profile with everything disabled on the enhancement options )

Has anyone had the some issue and found a fix for this ?

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post #1548 of 1549 Old 06-19-2014, 12:44 AM
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Anyone have any tips on getting the female wall mount holders back in?

I just swapped TVs and the female bolt holder fell into the TV when I removed the screws!

Two things awe me most, the starry sky above me and the moral law within me. IK
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post #1549 of 1549 Old 06-20-2014, 11:35 PM
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Have you demoed J. River? It might solve your problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by retsnom View Post
Quote: Originally Posted by Otto Pylot

On 120Hz sets, Real Cinema takes 24p material and displays each frame 5 times to maintain the natural cadence of the film. On a 60Hz set, each frame is displayed twice to keep the 48Hz refresh rate. TruMotion, which you may be confusing Real Cinema with, interpolates the motion between the frames, hence the SOE (soap opera effect). For movies, leave Real Cinema on and TruMotion off. The Real Cinema setting only works when 24p material is presented, so even if the setting is not grayed out (which I think is the case with my LD520 while viewing OTA), it has no effect. However, if you're using your computer as the source, it sounds like there may be some sort of incompatibility between your graphics card and the LG causing them to be slightly out of sync with each other. My BD player outputs at the correct rate without any adjustments and my LG displays 24p when presented.


All I know is that once I play a video using MPC-HC and MadVR kicks in, it sets the desktop refresh rate at 24p and the TV info says that the resolution and refresh rate is indeed at 1080/24p, which turns Real Cinema on. I'm not sure about the TruMotion stuff since I can't seem to find it in the menu.

Two things awe me most, the starry sky above me and the moral law within me. IK
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