On 120Hz sets, Real Cinema takes 24p material and displays each frame 5 times to maintain the natural cadence of the film. On a 60Hz set, each frame is displayed twice to keep the 48Hz refresh rate. TruMotion, which you may be confusing Real Cinema with, interpolates the motion between the frames, hence the SOE (soap opera effect). For movies, leave Real Cinema on and TruMotion off. The Real Cinema setting only works when 24p material is presented, so even if the setting is not grayed out (which I think is the case with my LD520 while viewing OTA), it has no effect. However, if you're using your computer as the source, it sounds like there may be some sort of incompatibility between your graphics card and the LG causing them to be slightly out of sync with each other. My BD player outputs at the correct rate without any adjustments and my LG displays 24p when presented.
All I know is that once I play a video using MPC-HC and MadVR kicks in, it sets the desktop refresh rate at 24p and the TV info says that the resolution and refresh rate is indeed at 1080/24p, which turns Real Cinema on. I'm not sure about the TruMotion stuff since I can't seem to find it in the menu.
I'll buy a 42 LG LCD, current available models in Argentina are:
LK450 being the most widely available nowadays.
- Main Use: Blu-Ray 24fps from Pioneer BR
- Secondary Use: HDTV
- Third Use: STD (PAL-N 50hz)
- I won't use it for gaming/120hz/sports...
- Any reason not to buy LK450 and look for any of the others?
- LK450 IPS code is W or Y?
- Any tip on the best model with lowest clouding/best contrast-black levels/color reproduction (after calibration)
What's the difference between Expert1 and Expert2?
I gave them identical settings as a starting point for customizing Expert2, and noticed they look quite different...
Essentially it lets you have HDMI -> HDMI with 4:4:4 & audio both at the same time. The best part is that it takes 10 seconds to do and does not require any EDID fixes etc.
Just joined to say that for 5 months now i have gotten 4:4:4 Full RGB to work with an HDMI-to-HDMI cable on an LG 32LD450 (very similar to the 32LK450, but its the 2010 model).
This trick only works with an Nvidia card, but that's the brand that has the problem everyone is trying to figure out anyways (my laptop's ATI/AMD chip allows me to select Full 4:4:4 RGB without this trick and it works).
You go to your resolutions page in the Nvidia Control Panel and you select the "Customize" button at the bottom. Create a new resolution (preferably your native resolution) and expand the timing field at the bottom of the window so you can see the more detailed active pixel count and refresh rate timings.
Choose MANUAL as the timing standard and ONLY manually change the refresh rate at the bottom so it reads 60.001hz (or 120.001, 50.001, etc.) instead of 60.000hz (60hz).
What this does is it throws of the EDID chip in your TV and bypasses the nature in which your EDID treats a signal from an HDMI cable. After doing this, you will notice your whites just got whiter and blacks are blacker-er (lol).
ALL WHILE PRESERVING AUDIO!
So for all of you with HDMI receivers used in conjunction with your PC, you can now use your HDMI cable with audio without having to do the registry tweak or use a DVI-to-HDMI cable.
This ONLY works for HDMI-to-HDMI. If you do this on a DVI connection (DVI-to-DVI or DVI-HDMI), you will get artifacts and your PQ will become corrupted until you change back. Its just the difference of how HDMI handles timings.
42LD450 with calman c3 meter perfect greyscale.
100 -50 1 10
90 -21 -6 24
80 -20 -3 24
70 -19 -6 20
60 -14 -2 19
50 -11 -2 18
40 -6 0 18
30 -3 3 16
20 0 5 14
10 1 4 5
Hello to everyone, my TV LG 32LD450 appears the following problem, about ten days after the warranty has expired (probably the problem was under warranty but unfortunately at that time I was away on vacation..) in the lower bottom of the screen (2cm approx.) freezes the picture for a while and then comes back with a result to be very tiring especially when you read subtitles!
The official LG service told me that the problem was caused due to the panel and of course I am not willing to change it...
I would appreciate any suggestions anyone has to tell me but I have come to the conclusion that the only thing that would diminish the problem is to raise the screen up to 1cm, not from the TV menu, since this setting is not good enough, but through the Service Menu (EZ-Adjust Mode) Vertical & Horizontally adjustment, although I don’t know which setting to adjust.
Thank you in advance for your interest!
The post above suggest to try "Just Scan" aspect ratio... also available via the Q-Menu;
this is the most accurate (1:1) aspect ratio - good for DVD, Bluray source.
Also try 16:9... I have my cable TV source to this to eliminate broadcast TV underscan;
the 16:9 might zoom you in just enough so that your glitch is outside the visible area.
I came to see if anyone had put up a new 10-point (Calman/Lightspace) setting... vincentprice's above is the last and good (I think).
I have discovered that LGs gamma default of 2.2 is not correct - from TV calibrators on this forum.
It was suggested to me to use gamma 1.9 as that is actually a real gamma 2.2 on LGs... of course adjust the TV's
brightness for this gamma. I do believe that the 450's gamma is more correct using 1.9. Try it, really.
Because I now use the gamma 1.9 setting, I wonder if the 10-point (vincentprice's above) is off because of that...?
Also on this forum, find AVS HD-709 and adjust your TV with this free basics tool.
Our TV can look as good as more costly sets, IMHO!
Hi there .. I have a 32LD450 that I only use to play with my xbox 360.
I noticed that when both the tv and the xbox are already on, I can reduce the input lag significantly if I simply go to the settings menu and change one of various settings on my TV. I usually just go to the quick menu and change from "just scan" to "original" or from "original" to "just scan" and its good to go, the input lag instantly diminishes a lot .
But I don't understand why this happens and I really would like to know if there is a permanent fix for this issue.
(I use hdmi cable and 720p resolution selected on the console and on the tv i use the game profile with everything disabled on the enhancement options )
Has anyone had the some issue and found a fix for this ?
I just swapped TVs and the female bolt holder fell into the TV when I removed the screws!