100% Working repair for Gateway XHD3000 30" LCD monitor - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 64 Old 06-22-2010, 03:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi
I'm from Sri Lanka and this is for the benefit of every owner of the Gateway XHD3000 who have been having the dreaded green lines. This a collection of all the usefull information and methods described by other owners to repair the problems 100%. It's in sections for easier reading.

The 3 types of problems this monitor develops are the following;

1) Green haze, lines, shades, distortions, banding.
2) Flickering, strobe and grid sectioning (10cm x 10cm) nightmare (this is the worst one to tolerate)
3) Vertical band of changing rainbow lines (mine was a ~30cm wide vertical band to the left) going from top to bottom.

I would like to confirm that the resouldering method described by "Pawstar" WORKS 100% and it fixed all 3 problems in my XHD3000!
YES THE XHD3000 CAN BE REPAIRED EASILY!


There are 2 ways to fix this monitor (Don't even bother with GATEWAY support; it doesn't exist).
1) Resoulder the ALTERA BGA chip on the "LTM300M1C8LV3.2" "Logic board" situated at the top of the monitor within a aluminum box.
2) Replace the "LTM300M1C8LV3.2" Logic board with a new one.
Some people are offering to "reapair for $170. Not worth it.

Just to elaborate on the 2 methods;

****

1) RESOULDERING and REFLOW.
First dismantle the montior so that you can remove the logic board at the top. Refer to the picture I made with labels. These were screenshots off a youtube video. Make sure to view the pics at original size to see the labels.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/51382249@N07/4724012455/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/51382249@N07/4724013045/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/51382249@N07/4724031961/

Then you have to heat the ALTERA BGA chip (big black chip in the middle).Here is the link to the Aletra company website;
http://www.altera.com/
and here is the link to 2 pdf files that describes the resouldering procedure for the chip. It has a nice temp vs time graph!
AN081.pdf (http://www.altera.com/literature/an/...1&WT.oss=an081)
AN353.pdf (http://www.altera.com/literature/an/...1&WT.oss=an353)

RESOULDERING means you heat the chip until the lead contacts, at the bottom of the chip, between the board and chip, melt, so that they can reform proper contacts with the circuit board again (I think "REFLOW" means the same). The tech guy that did it for me, said he had to acctually heat it to 340 celsius (manufacturer recomends heating to a max of 220 Celcius) before he got the smell of melting lead; that's how he figured out the optimum temperature; he didn't have a thermal camera. But it worked! He did it in steps though (meaning first he tried at 220 C, then 250 C, then 300 C and finally 350 C).
There is something called "flux" which is like a wax like paste that you are supposed to apply somewhere to prevent short circuits (I guess you apply it around the edges of the chip). My tech guy applied it too.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flux_(metallurgy)

"In soldering of metals, flux serves a threefold purpose: it removes oxidation from the surfaces to be soldered, it seals out air thus preventing further oxidation, and by facilitating amalgamation improves wetting characteristics of the liquid solder. Flux is corrosive, so the parts have to be cleaned with a damp sponge or other absorbent material after soldering to prevent damage."

Here are Youtube videos on resouldering
http://www.youtube.com/watch#!v=Ek-F...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JB1In...eature=related

Here is a forum link by User "vblh1976"
http://forums.macnn.com/69/mac-noteb...b-logic-board/

In addition to the manufacture's method, there are other ways to heat this chip.
a) Place a metal "candle cup" on top of the chip and light a candle. This should generate enough heat to melt the lead. As for how long you keep it, that depends observation and "smell". Here are some links. Try a search for "resoulder bga"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=apv19Y3VlGQ
http://hackaday.com/2010/05/13/ghett...with-a-candle/
http://www.tuaw.com/2007/06/25/repai...with-a-candle/

b) Someone used a butane flame torch. One user discourages this method though.

****

2) Replace the "LTM300M1C8LV3.2" Logic board with a new one.
There are many ways to buy a replacement logic board
1) Search for "LTM300M1C8LV3.2" on ebay. ~$300 - $400 ( rip off , not worth it).
2) Search for "LTM300M1C8LV3.2" on google. Lots of links
3) Try the chineese auction site provided by user "vblh1976". ~ $40 (worth it I would say).
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=4424159871
4) Another chineese comapny;
http://www.xincai168.com/product_show.asp?id=475
Email: xincaikeji@163.com


Remeber its "version 3.2" in "LTM300M1C8LV3.2".

If chineese charatcers are not showing properly, use this method;
http://www.chinese-tools.com/resources/windows-xp.html

If you want to translate try;
http://translate.google.com/#
http://www.google.com/language_tools?hl=EN
http://babelfish.yahoo.com/

****

Steps for PROLONGING the life of the repaired monitor.
1) Fix a small fan on top of the Altera chip (can be placed on the outside of the metal cage). I did this, and now the top, back and the front screen doesn't heat up as much!
2) Go to your video card settings and select "Enable GPU scalling". This will make your video card do all the scalling work instead of the monitor's built in video processing chip (and I think the Altera is the video chip). Obviously run the monitor at 2560 x 1600 resolution (again no scalling needed then). This way when a game runs at say 1920 x 1200 resolution or lower, your GPU will scale it up to 2560 x 1600 and send that to the monitor.
3) Put heat sinks on the other chips.
4) Say a few prayers to whatever god you beleive in.

Remember this wont solve the mysterious 1 second screen blanking that happens once or twice a day.

As for future choices, I'm never buying anything from gateway as there support is terrible. There should be class action law suit. I used to laugh at people suing for "emotional distress" thinking they were simply ripping off somebody. But now I understand what it is (not to mention the 6 months I used it with the green problems). Even though the monitor is fixed 100%, I still have this terrible feeling that the monitor might go anytime and the problems will start again. Everytime I start the PC I wait to see if it is going to be normal. This sucks. Hopefully it will go away with time. I will only buy DELL and SAMSUNG (amazing engineering) and Asus from now on.

Well hope this helps. Feel free to add to or correct this information and spread it.
Lets make this a sticky!

Keywords tags: Repair Gateway XHD3000 30" LCD Green lines banding flicker strobe Altera BGA resoulder reflow flux TM300M1C8LV3.2 Logic board.
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post #2 of 64 Old 06-27-2010, 05:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi just wondering if any other owners had any luck. Leave some feedback.
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post #3 of 64 Old 07-24-2010, 02:30 PM
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Thank you Revtech, I'm glad I stumbled upon your thread. My monitor has been sitting in the corner ever since the banding issues. I always knew it was a heat issue with a chip, Just didn't know which one. Gonna try to reseat the chip with heat. If that doesn't work I'll buy another board for 50.00. Thanks for all the info.
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post #4 of 64 Old 07-24-2010, 02:46 PM
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Nice post revtech2010.

Boky
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post #5 of 64 Old 08-04-2010, 11:15 PM
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I'm looking for a source for a new board. I am also interested in purchasing a broken board (still flickers video lines). Any help or information would be appreciated.. thanks
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post #6 of 64 Old 08-12-2010, 01:29 PM
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I complained about Gateway's 'support' for this monitor to the NYS Dept. of Consumer Affairs and they sent a nastygram to Texas... seems the fact that I purchased it in NYC puts it in their jurisdiction.

Maybe everybody else should contact their local Consumer people... maybe if enough people complain they'll have to cooperate.
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post #7 of 64 Old 08-14-2010, 05:07 PM
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I just did revtech's suggestion of applying the reflowing method to my XHD3000 that I purchased used. Of course it initially had the remote not working, the eztouch blue buttons not responding, and the screen exhibited lines all across the bottom and middle part of the screen. I took apart the backside of the monitor and got to the board to reflow. I used a simple bic lighter and held it there for a good 30 seconds about 1-1.5 inches away and it did get black from the burn. I wiped away the black soot and carefully reconnected everything. Especially the white band that leads to the side panel of buttons (that's what caused my buttons not to appear at all). Put it all together and am now a proud owner of dual XHD3000 monitors! 5120x1600 resolution FTW!!!

I will see how long this lasts. But for the meantime I'm as happy as can be.
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post #8 of 64 Old 08-22-2010, 01:27 PM
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Thanks, RevTech. This worked pefectly with my heat gun. I did wrap the board with several sheets of aluminum foil and cut out around the Altera chip. I also covered the resistors under the board near the chip as well and applied duct tape so they would not drop off. I started by prewarming that area of the board, then I focused the gun on the chip for 25 seconds at a distance of 1.5 inches above it and did a gradual cool down. I did practice heating chips on an old network card I had and making note of the time that a reflow occured. During reassembly I added 2) 20mm fans in the grate above the chip. I used a dremel and made an opening just large enough to provide for a press fit. Then I spliced the fans to a USB cable and ran that to the usb port on the side of the monitor for power.
The outcome is perfect. No more green stripping or green and pink lines. I have to admit I was a little nervous as most of my experience has just been building, overclocking and tweaking computers. I figured that the monitor was a near lose unless I wanted to spend 400.00 on a new board so really there was nothing to lose.

It is a shame that Gateway doesn't stand behind this product. It is in my opinion one of the best monitors out there. For the price it should last as long as a LCD or Plasma TV.

Thanks Again for the useful imformation.
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post #9 of 64 Old 08-30-2010, 05:53 PM
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Well that repair lasted great for 1 week. Found this site regarding a class action suit. I sent an inquiry as to the status.

classlitigation.com/index.php/about-us/66-class-action-brought-against-gateway

If you feel you've been robbed on this product say something there. It might help if there is a large enough group of us.
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post #10 of 64 Old 08-30-2010, 06:32 PM
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I just heard back from the law firm as to the Class Action Suit initiated against Gateway. Here is what they say.....

Thank you for contacting us and telling us about your experience with the XHD3000 monitor. Yeah, I'm afraid it has turned into an expensive paperweight for too many purchasers. The class action lawsuit against Gateway is proceeding. We've survived a motion to dismiss. We've now begun discovery, which we expect will bring more evidence to light. After that, we should be in a position to move for certification of the class.

So I would suggest emailing them your stories.

I had this happem with a high end Sony Video camera and Sony had to make repairs to the units at there facility and pay shipping both ways. Of course this won't happen over night.
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post #11 of 64 Old 09-03-2010, 05:43 PM
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Can I get some pics and more detailed instructions on how exactly to install the fan?
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post #12 of 64 Old 09-05-2010, 01:03 PM
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I bought a new LM300M1C8LV3.2 Logic board for my GatewayXHD3000 and now I need to replace the defective board and add a Heat Sink to the Altera Chip on the new board without cracking the monitor case or damaging anythng else.

Does anyone have typed, video or still picture Step-by-Step instructions as to How I can safely open & close my Gateway XHD3000 to service it?


Thanks in advance!


Murray
mkerdman@gmail.com

Murray Kerdman
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post #13 of 64 Old 09-07-2010, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkerdman View Post

I bought a new LM300M1C8LV3.2 Logic board for my GatewayXHD3000 and now I need to replace the defective board and add a Heat Sink to the Altera Chip on the new board without cracking the monitor case or damaging anythng else.

Does anyone have typed, video or still picture Step-by-Step instructions as to How I can safely open & close my Gateway XHD3000 to service it?


Thanks in advance!


Murray
mkerdman@gmail.com

Murray, if you don't mind me asking. Where did you end up finding a logic board? I've been looking for a reasonably priced board for a while.

To take apart your monitor you need to remove the stand and carefully pry around the edges to pop the back cover off.
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post #14 of 64 Old 09-07-2010, 06:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T72MKIV View Post

Murray, if you don't mind me asking. Where did you end up finding a logic board? I've been looking for a reasonably priced board for a while.

To take apart your monitor you need to remove the stand and carefully pry around the edges to pop the back cover off.


I found it up on eBay from a seller who located "new old stock" in Asia with no thanks to Gateway.

The problem lies with the Altera Scaler chip that needs to be carefully re-flow soldered.

No one makes a monitor with the I/O & features of the XHD3000 so I bought the board as a backup if re-flow soldering fails on my original board.

Murray Kerdman
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post #15 of 64 Old 09-18-2010, 07:10 AM
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These guys (http://www.dealextreme.com/feedbacks/productrequest.dx), Deal Extreme, will accept requests to import products from China.

I put in request for the LTM300M1C8LV3.2 and they didn't respond, but maybe of enough of us did they would... it would be nice to have a reasonably priced source.
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post #16 of 64 Old 09-23-2010, 08:48 AM
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Anyone have a Gateway XHD 3000 they would want to sell? Found a place and had mine repaired, then screen was broken in shipping.
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post #17 of 64 Old 09-24-2010, 02:46 PM
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What's the contact info for this "place"?
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post #18 of 64 Old 09-27-2010, 08:10 PM
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Does anyone know where to get the service manual for the XHD3000? (not the user manual....the actual service manual for this POS)
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post #19 of 64 Old 09-28-2010, 06:09 AM
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Worked with a person on Ebay who fixed it, installed heatsinks and a fan. Sent me video footage of monitor working before shipping. Id on ebay is bammbammfran with a cost of $170, but you have to ship full monitor. I recommend if you do this to ensure screen is protected better than the original box did it.
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post #20 of 64 Old 11-01-2010, 07:41 AM - Thread Starter
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XHD3000 Permanent Easy Repair Modification and Mysteries explained.
revtech2010@ymail.com
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1527751

Well finally I figured out what was happening. This is a combined picture tutorial on dismantling the monitor and putting it back in a way that makes future repairs very convenient and quick. I have also found answers to some mysterious problems.

You can download all the pics and instructions in one easy archive here
http://www.fileserve.com/file/WB2GwDK
Or read through here.

Taking the monitor apart.
1) Lay the monitor's screen on a table, in order to remove the stand. Remove the 4 screws that fasten the stand to the monitor.


2) Then use a thin flat ruler to pry on the sides to remove the back cover. It comes off easily.


3) You should now see something like in picture 3. Remove the aluminum foil. It really isn't needed. On the left side you will see a tiny thin white ribbon cable. This is what connects to the touch panel on the front. Remove all the nuts indicated in picture 3.


4) As you can see in picture 4, there is another thick black cable with a white connector on the left side. Remove this first.


5) To remove the big metal cage, unscrew the nuts on the "input connector panel" at the back as indicated in picture 5. You also have to remove the 2 nuts on either side of both the white DVI and blue VGA connectors. Now slide the metal cage back JUST A LITTLE TO CLEAR THE SLOTS, and then lift it off carefully MAKING SURE NOT TO DAMAGE THE THIN WHITE RIBBON MENTIONED EARLIER.
The main metal frame itself can be slid back; but don't do this yet.


6) You should now be able to the see the main circuit board with the white ribbon cable attached on the left, and another smaller metal cage at the top that covers the LTM300M1C8LV3.2" Logic board (this is the board with the ALTERA chip that needs to be reheated (resouldered or reflowed)) as shown in picture 6. The red and black wires are the ones that were put in to fix the extra fan. I removed it as cooling isn't actually required!


7) Remove the white ribbon cable by gently pulling it to the left as shown in picture 7. Now slide the main Metal frame backwards a little.


8) As shown in picture 8, you will see 2 black cables connected to a the LTM300M1C8LV3.2" Logic board that is still covered by the smaller metal cage as shown in picture 6.
These 2 black cables are taped to the bottom. Remove the second metal cage covering the LTM300M1C8LV3.2" Logic board by unscrewing the nuts indicated in picture 6.
Alright from here onwards, we are going to MAKE SOME DRASTIC CHANGES TO THE REPAIR METHOD that will make future repairs quite convenient and quick! Please be patient and gentle while doing this as you will only have to this once.


9) Detach the 2 black cables attached to the LTM300M1C8LV3.2" Logic board AND REMOVE THE TAPES HOLDING THEM TO THE BOTTOM, AS SHOWN IN PICTURES 9 AND 10.


10) Discard the tape if you want. Now swivel the small metal cage up.


11) Also detach the USB connector to make handling easier as shown in picture 11.


12) You should now be seeing something similar to picture 12, with both circuit boards exposed, and 2 black cables detached.


WARNING!!!!! Be very careful with the following steps. These steps will also help explain some of the mysteries and root causes of faults.

13) There are 4 brown plastic connectors fixed to 4 white slots as shown in picture 13. The 2 on the left carry data for the exact left half of the monitor's pixels and the 2 on the right for the pixels on the right side!


14) Here is how to remove them; Lift the brown "tops" to flip them open (they swivel up) as shown in picture 14.


15) Now very gently slide them out as shown in picture 15. Why gently? Well this is what answers 2 of our mysteries!!
These brown connectors have very thin metal connection strips on them THAT CAN BE EASILY RUBBED OR WORN OFF! If this happens to even one connector, YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO SEE EXACTLY ONE HALF OF YOUR SCREEN (that half becomes completely black)!! So be very carefull. If this does happen, read my solution in "notes".
Also the white or multicolored vertical band that develops is due to a bad connection in these brown connectors and not the ALTERA chip!!! The green haze, flickering and blurring is due to the Altera chip!


16) You should now be at picture 16 where you can take away the small metal cage and can take off the LTM300M1C8LV3.2" Logic board. Remove any thermal pads on the chips (but don't throw them away).
Now you can simply do the candle heating method where you turn the LTM300M1C8LV3.2" Logic board upside down (holding it horizontally) and heat the Altera chip with the candle flame for about 30 seconds, and then let the board cool for about 10 miniutes. Wipe off the black soot that collects on the chip.


17) NOW HERE IS THE REVOLUTIONARY NEW IDEA TO MAKE REPAIRS MORE CONVENIENT!!!!

DON'T PUT THE LTM300M1C8LV3.2" Logic board BACK INTO THE IT'S ORIGINAL PLACE!!

As shown in picture 17, the 2 black connectors can be placed outside on top!


18) Now reconnect the touch panel's "thin white ribbon cable" by gently sliding it back into it's slot (this is easier if you hold it with a tweezer). Also attach the "thick black cable with the white connector" on the left as shown in picture 18.


19) Now you can put put the "main metal frame" back into position, FIX THE NUTS, SLIDE THE BIG METAL CAGE BACK ON AND FIX ALL THE CORRESPONDING NUTS, and attach the USB connector as well. You should now have a setup similar to picture 19!


20) As shown in picture 20, the 2 black cables and the 4 brown connectors should now be on the OUTSIDE!


21) As shown in picture 21 go ahead and CAREFULLY ATTACH ALL THE CONNECTORS AGAIN to the LTM300M1C8LV3.2" Logic board. Slide a brown connector in and then flip back the top brown cover to lock it in place. Do this for all 4. You can pull back the "flat recatangualr rubber ring" on the bigger black connector to bend the wires a bit more easily.


22) You should now have a arrangement similar to picture 22!

Compare with picture 3 and see the difference.


23) Again A NEW IDEA HERE. Dont put the "back cover" back. Simply attach the stand back to the monitor using the 4 big nuts as shown in picture 23.


24) NOW THE BEST PART!!!!!!! As shown in picture 24, if you need to reheat the altera chip in the future with a candle, simply disconnect power, tilt the monitor back, hold the candle for 30 seconds, let it cool, connect power back on and you are good to go!! You should be carefull not to heat some of the other parts, though a candle shouldn't be a problem.

FUTURE REPAIRS TAKE ONLY 30 EASY SECONDS INSTEAD OF 1 TEDIOUS HOUR!!!!!!!!


25) Picture 25 shows how everything is positioned and sits at the back.


26) Remember to attach the heat pads onto the chips again.


If you really want to put the back cover on, then I guess you could cut out the middle top part of the back cover for easy access in the future. Make sure not to cut out the lower part so that you can use it as a hinge to swivel the "cut part" up and down when doing the candle trick.


Notes:
1) Remember if you get green lines, haze, blury flickering, then that is due to the Altera chip and you need to do the candle trick. However, if you are getting the broad white (or multicolored) vertical band then ITS PROBABLY DUE TO THE BROWN CONNECTORS.

2) If you have the problem where half the screen is dark, then that is probably due to the "worn off" "connection strips" printed on the brown connectors. If this happens, I guess you could do the following; Check all 4 brown connectors to see if any have worn off connection strips. If they do, do ONE of the following;
a) Take a single or double thread from a tiny copper wire, cut out an appropriate length, and tape it to the connector to connect accross a gap.
b) Apply a micro amount of lead (with a soulder) to any worn off gaps. Be very carefull.
c) Connect the brown connector to a modified old parrellel hard drive cable, make a suitable end connector and connect that to the original slot or even to the L shaped metal pins running into the white slots.

3) When I said "permanent fix" I meant an easier and shorter way to repair with the candle method.

4) Before when I ran the monitor at below the native resolution, it actually fixed the green problem automatically and then when running again in the native 2560x1600 the problem would reappear. I guess the extra heat generated by the ALTERA video chip due to the scalling effort, RESULTED IN THE CHIP ACTUALLY SELF RESOULDERING IT SELF TEMPORARILY!

That's why I have removed the fan.


Whew! Spent a long time taking pics, putting in directions, and uploading everything. Hope this helps everyone!

This also goes to show just how badly this has been engineered!
Anyway, this really should make this situation more bearable. Know of any better methods to fill gaps in worn off printed connectors? Leave your suggestions and methods.
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post #21 of 64 Old 01-26-2011, 01:59 PM
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There's a lot of bad advice online. People are doing some very dumb things. Blow torches, lighters, hair dryers, heat guns and loose change have no business anywhere near the circuitry of your laptop or LCD. I think most of you know that. But the prospect that - just maybe if you follow a youtube video that your LCD or laptop might start working again is a little too much for some people to pass up. But keep this in mind: The damage that you will cause will outweigh the temporary benefit. Crude repairs are often short lived and often result in permanent damage. Look up definitions for the following words: Blistering, Delamination & Outgassing. These are all very real problems that the SMT industry constantly re-assesses. You can't control or limit those effects with household appliances - you just can't. So, put the curling iron down. Listen to me for a minute. Read the FAQ at the following site - you might learn something: PrecisionDivision (dot) com



Youtube is for music videos. Not do it yourself motherboard repair. You can just take my word for it, or you can learn the hard way. The choice is yours.
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post #22 of 64 Old 02-02-2011, 01:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c4247751 View Post

There's a lot of bad advice online. People are doing some very dumb things. Blow torches, lighters, hair dryers, heat guns and loose change have no business anywhere near the circuitry of your laptop or LCD. I think most of you know that. But the prospect that - just maybe if you follow a youtube video that your LCD or laptop might start working again is a little too much for some people to pass up. But keep this in mind: The damage that you will cause will outweigh the temporary benefit. Crude repairs are often short lived and often result in permanent damage. Look up definitions for the following words: Blistering, Delamination & Outgassing. These are all very real problems that the SMT industry constantly re-assesses. You can't control or limit those effects with household appliances - you just can't. So, put the curling iron down. Listen to me for a minute. Read the FAQ at the following site - you might learn something: PrecisionDivision (dot) com



Youtube is for music videos. Not do it yourself motherboard repair. You can just take my word for it, or you can learn the hard way. The choice is yours.

Dude, if you have a dead $1800 monitor that up until this, countless TV repair guys couldn't fix, this is awesome.. I understand your Prolly a tech and this is a cheaters way to resolution but common this is not dumb its brilliant!!!!

Thanks so much to the poster of this "cheaters" fix it has made me a happy man even if I only get a year or 2 outta it.
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post #23 of 64 Old 02-04-2011, 08:30 PM
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Just as an update for those attempting to fix thier XHD 3000.. I have had to re heat the chip 3x now... The 1st attempt No change in HS or cooling reattached the origional pads... 2nd attempt I did have a fan mounted on the back side of the XHD case and the heat must have still been great... I since have added a fan directly avove the new heat sink I have attached to the CHip in question and added 2 fans to the exterior back side of the monitor... The back plastice (gateway ) is now cool to the touch intead of relatively warm to hot... I hope this stop the chip from comming free again but at least the flame on chip seems to have worked a total of 3 times..... Thanks again to the poster of the origional post and the amended cooling solution.. should have just done the added heatsinks from the 1st attempt but heck I had to try
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post #24 of 64 Old 02-19-2011, 09:23 AM
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Took me 30 minutes to dismantle the monitor and use the candle technique and the monitor that was dead is now working like brand new.

Thanks!
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post #25 of 64 Old 04-12-2011, 12:05 PM
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Hey guys I'm in the same shoes as you guys, my gateway hdx3000 is having all the regular problems. This guide seems great but it's above my tech level. I don't know how to do any of this stuff. I'm from north jersey and need services. Anyone know of a place to have these monitors repaired? I need somebody with the tech knowledge in my area I pay cash!!
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post #26 of 64 Old 04-18-2011, 01:51 AM
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Gusvwho are fixing these screens where do you buy the logic boards from cheaply ??
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post #27 of 64 Old 06-17-2011, 09:32 AM
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ltm300m1c8lv3.2 BUY NEW
BN81-02450A

Found where to buy these NEW direct from SAMSUNG from the real seller on ebay that just had his accounts closed do to fraudulent and illegal actions of the other seller !!
So he is sharing this info:
go to samsungparts.com
search BN81-02450A
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post #28 of 64 Old 07-09-2011, 09:54 PM
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I owned the XHD3000 for two years with flawless performance, never experienced any of the typical problems of green banding, half-screen, flicker, etc. Then, occasionally, the unit would black out the display while still passing audio and USB signals. Not the brief 2 second blackout others have listed, but a blackout that would not recover until I disconnected and reconnected the power supply. But now, I don't even get the initial Gateway logo screen, and the side buttons act erratic (even though they DO still respond to touch). Just complete blackout of the display...

Do any of you savvy tinkerers know if this is a logic chip, overheating, or power supply problem? Has anyone else experienced this?
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post #29 of 64 Old 07-13-2011, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cartj391 View Post

I owned the XHD3000 for two years with flawless performance, never experienced any of the typical problems of green banding, half-screen, flicker, etc. Then, occasionally, the unit would black out the display while still passing audio and USB signals. Not the brief 2 second blackout others have listed, but a blackout that would not recover until I disconnected and reconnected the power supply. But now, I don't even get the initial Gateway logo screen, and the side buttons act erratic (even though they DO still respond to touch). Just complete blackout of the display...

Do any of you savvy tinkerers know if this is a logic chip, overheating, or power supply problem? Has anyone else experienced this?

I just had the EXACT SAME PROBLEM. For years my screen worked perfectly, a few 1 second black outs which would distort the screen along with fuzzy letters and numbers etc. Now though, I can hear the sound, the side buttons turn on, but no logo screen when I turn it on or anything from the screen. Just pure BLACKNESS. Like u man, I needed to unplug it and let it cool down, then after a few minutes it would turn on, but now after a few days, it won't turn on. I'm in NYC and I can't seem to have the time to look for someone to help me fix it, if anyone knows someone in NYC that can fix this problem or can show me, please let me know. I feel ur pain cartj.. :,-(


HELP!!!!!!! Please....
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post #30 of 64 Old 07-16-2011, 11:49 AM
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I've had my XHD3000 for three years and its now flickering. I guess I'll try out some of the methods when I get the chance but should buying this new board fix all these problems?

Quote:


go to samsungparts.com
search BN81-02450A

Also what's the deal with the 1-2 second blackout a little bit after you turn the monitor on? I always just assumed it was something that it always did. It didn't really bother me since once it did it, it didn't do it again until I turned it off again.
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