Official LG xxLD550 xxLD520 xxLD650 Owners Thread - Page 171 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5101 of 5125 Old 02-22-2016, 04:15 AM
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4:4:4 info

I can't send 4:4:4 to my 55LD650. I have tried both HDMI1 (DVI) and HDMI2 input, with and without having my Yamaha receiver in the chain.
Now, I'm using HDMI1 input with my laptop, and if I set the label of it to PC AND set the refresh rate to 60 Hz then I'll get somehow different result but still far from 4:4:4. (Otherwise I use the TV with different refresh rates with the help of madVR according to the content that is played.)
Does anyone manage to get 4:4:4 with these sets?

Thanks

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post #5102 of 5125 Old 02-23-2016, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chros73 View Post
I can't send 4:4:4 to my 55LD650. I have tried both HDMI1 (DVI) and HDMI2 input, with and without having my Yamaha receiver in the chain.
Now, I'm using HDMI1 input with my laptop, and if I set the label of it to PC AND set the refresh rate to 60 Hz then I'll get somehow different result but still far from 4:4:4. (Otherwise I use the TV with different refresh rates with the help of madVR according to the content that is played.)
Does anyone manage to get 4:4:4 with these sets?

Thanks
what do you mean by "can't" a black screen? how do you know what is being input? I ,too , output 32bit color 444 rgb or the other. never really know what is being played. i only know when i put it thorough my onkyo 608.

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post #5103 of 5125 Old 02-23-2016, 08:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnniedoo View Post
what do you mean by "can't" a black screen?
No. I can see the normal picture (desktop or movie) but definitely not 4:4:4.
You can check these comparisons: http://s807.photobucket.com/user/flo...stx_b.png.html (It's included in the official Chroma 4:4:4 thread: Official 4:4:4 / Chroma Subsampling Thread )
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnniedoo View Post
how do you know what is being input?
Well, good question: it should be FullRGB DeepColor (the latter is true, I can get 10 bit) via HDMI thanks to the Intel HD4000 iGPU.
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Originally Posted by johnniedoo View Post
I ,too , output 32bit color 444 rgb or the other. never really know what is being played. i only know when i put it thorough my onkyo 608.
What kind of info can you get from the receiver? My Yamaha doesn't give me any.

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post #5104 of 5125 Old 02-23-2016, 05:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chros73 View Post
No. I can see the normal picture (desktop or movie) but definitely not 4:4:4.
You can check these comparisons: http://s807.photobucket.com/user/flo...stx_b.png.html (It's included in the official Chroma 4:4:4 thread: Official 4:4:4 / Chroma Subsampling Thread )

Well, good question: it should be FullRGB DeepColor (the latter is true, I can get 10 bit) via HDMI thanks to the Intel HD4000 iGPU.

What kind of info can you get from the receiver? My Yamaha doesn't give me any.
I have a 5 plus yr old Onkyo tx sr608 and it has the osd which indicates the signals in and out when i put the hdmi into it between the computer or cable box and lg tv. it shows 24, 30 , 36bit rgb or whatever vid as well as input/output of audio. no idea how accurate it may be, but it does change as i change inputs. i nearly always just allow for through from my gpu but, tv signals i do upscale from either the 720p or 1080i (to 1080p)they all are. audio i usually modify with it from 2channel, even the few 5.1dolby/pcm i change to 7.1 most of the time. but all of that shows up in the on screen display button.
I noticed that sometimes i get a 36bit output, never really noticed this before , usually from cable 24 to 32bit. will experiment more to see what is what with my sapphire 7950 and the latest amd crimson drivers. it allows for things i do not watch out for. it will upscale to 2k or higher, might be ok for games but does me no good and never looked to see whether there is any other changes in color depth or output. i have been watching more black and white lately anyway.
p.s.
i checked out that photo bucket and put my samsung 24" B2430 monitor right next to the lg42ld550 and put half a pic on the lg and the other side on the samsung monitor . i will need to see what the samsung is set to. i have it with dvi plug i think directly to the computer card . the differences between the 444 enabled /disabled are different, a little more distinct with a couple of the comps. it is a pain in the neck to check and alter the settings on the samsung since it is a bottom of the frame by touch set u p and i hate it. the lg550 of course has all sorts of setting options but may be time to re calibrate it with the blu ray disc i got here years ago. i know my red/green is off a bit, how much? anyone's guess till i check it out again. been 3yrs maybe 2. not sure. stilll interesting ,mostly because i was thinking about it a month or 2 back when the 'new and improved' radeon crimson driver and manager came out. so far, not improved to me. may go back to one of the older radeon manager and driver sets. my 7950 is now considered dated and crimson may not be ideal. not sure of this yet though.
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post #5105 of 5125 Old 02-24-2016, 04:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnniedoo View Post
I have a 5 plus yr old Onkyo tx sr608 and it has the osd which indicates the signals in and out when i put the hdmi into it between the computer or cable box and lg tv. it shows 24, 30 , 36bit rgb or whatever vid as well as input/output of audio ....
... but all of that shows up in the on screen display button.
I noticed that sometimes i get a 36bit output, never really noticed this before , usually from cable 24 to 32bit. ...
Interesting. Neither my Yamaha nor my LG shows anything related to bit depth.
Those numbers can mean: 3*8bit=24 , 3*10bit=30, 3*12bit=36. My IPS panel in LG is 8bit+Dithering (so it's practically 10bits capable, but not True 10 bit) and I could confirm this with the help of madVR.
But these are nothing to do with Chroma subsampling. Usually our TV gets 4:2:2 , and if we are lucky we get 4:4:4 (I'm not ), or it can be worse (like 4:2 or who knows ). The only way to be ensure about this to check it manually with those test patterns (of course not with those, since they are the results, you can get the originals from the 4:4:4 thread).
Our TV has a special mode for this, that is quite hidden: go to settings, select source, than select the desired HDMI input and then push the Red button on the remote (it's for the label, I think). Here you can select different names for the input: if you use 60Hz (at least for me only 60Hz is working like this) and you select PC (and only this will behave like this) you will see that the picture will slightly change, and lot of image adjustment settings won't be available in the menu (like sharpness, color, tint, etc...). That means our TV doesn't use any image enhancement from it's chip but tries to function as a monitor. But, as I said, in this mode I still don't get 4:4:4.

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Originally Posted by johnniedoo View Post
i have been watching more black and white lately anyway.
How come? What kind of content is that?

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnniedoo View Post
i checked out that photo bucket and put my samsung 24" B2430 monitor right next to the lg42ld550 and put half a pic on the lg and the other side on the samsung monitor . i will need to see what the samsung is set to. i have it with dvi plug i think directly to the computer card . the differences between the 444 enabled /disabled are different, a little more distinct with a couple of the comps. it is a pain in the neck to check and alter the settings on the samsung since it is a bottom of the frame by touch set u p and i hate it.
It's easy to see the difference with the 1 pixel vertical red lines or with the color box test image: especially red and magenta color can suffer from this.
http://s807.photobucket.com/user/flo...1080p.png.html
Official 4:4:4 / Chroma Subsampling Thread
Can you enable/disable 4:4:4 on the Samsung?

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnniedoo View Post
the lg550 of course has all sorts of setting options but may be time to re calibrate it with the blu ray disc i got here years ago. i know my red/green is off a bit, how much? anyone's guess till i check it out again. been 3yrs maybe 2. not sure.
I have just calibrated/profiled mine 2 months ago with i1pro and i1DisplayPro for 3DLut using with madVR (with dispcalGUI). On mine everything was off a bit: reds and blues mostly. The result is acceptable, especially compared to the original state
You can also use the AVS HD 709 test pattern files (mp4 files) for the basic calibration if you don't have a meter. It can help a lot to set brightness, contrast. The color correction didn't work for me with the TV's inbuilt color filter.
AVS HD 709 - Blu-ray & MP4 Calibration

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post #5106 of 5125 Old 02-25-2016, 04:56 AM
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Originally Posted by chros73 View Post
I can't send 4:4:4 to my 55LD650. I have tried both HDMI1 (DVI) and HDMI2 input, with and without having my Yamaha receiver in the chain.
Now, I'm using HDMI1 input with my laptop, and if I set the label of it to PC AND set the refresh rate to 60 Hz then I'll get somehow different result but still far from 4:4:4. (Otherwise I use the TV with different refresh rates with the help of madVR according to the content that is played.)
Does anyone manage to get 4:4:4 with these sets?
Yesterday I ruled out Yamaha and my laptop: I borrowed a 24" FullHD LCD multimedia monitor with HDMI input from a friend of mine. I switched my TV with it at the end of the chain and I could see 4:4:4 without problem.
So that means my TV is the problem.

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post #5107 of 5125 Old 02-25-2016, 05:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chros73 View Post
Yesterday I ruled out Yamaha and my laptop: I borrowed a 24" FullHD LCD multimedia monitor with HDMI input from a friend of mine. I switched my TV with it at the end of the chain and I could see 4:4:4 without problem.
So that means my TV is the problem.
this is good to know, my Samsung B2430 is the non tuner version. just the monitor. i do not know much about it since i use it nearly exclusively for the internet and a few photo edits. not much more . i use the LG lcd 550 for 99% of the video i watch. as i said. lots of the old movies i have been watching are in black and white and another thing i have not been able to do with the LG is inability to manage the grayscale characteristics . I have only used that HD 709 download blu ray disc i made 4 or 5yrs ago. never did get a light meter. there is so much color differences among the movies i have purchased, watched on netrlix type places, streaming , that whether my personal set was perfectly calibrated became moot. on a few, (many more nowadays) blu ray releases color was near perfect , but for the most part the colour transmitted through the cable company's compression and original distortions---i just decided to save the couple of hundred dollars on the meter and software.
i found the 709 method presented through these forums worked out ok with the LG built in filters but left me wondering with the gray scale. i didnt do much black and white back then though. I read here on these forums, how important grayscale was though, to overall color accuracy. i have learned plenty through this site even though i have not been able to implement everything
I appreciate your step by step trial error method of determining the whole 4:4:4 /LG issue. I am going to try your method to check out my tv/monitor too.
still no idea on the Samsung b2430 though. my radeon ccc manager driver 15.11, 16.1 do not indicate the pixel for that one. it is fine with the Onkly 608 and for the lg tv and offers the ability to change among rgb 444 and YCbCr 422 i think full and limited rgb 444. options. none are available at all for the Samsung in the pull down page ...only the onkyo/lg. bad description , sorry but i forget exactly and an not on those set ups now. I think the amd radeon and particular hardware offers those options and has nothing at all to do with the tv or anything else . the onkyo has the built in video upscaler burr brown digital/analogue converter of some sort, forget which one is in this onkyo model. how it impacts colorspace is another thing beyond me. I use madVr all the time for all kinds of vids and movies . i use it with MPC-BE and Pot Player I just discovered . it is fairly good and easy to use. I use ffdshow in MPC as external filters so i am able to tweak the different variety of vids and movies i do have here. I have such a variety no one setting is good overall. even with profiles, i have a ton which are slightly outside of the profile with unique needs ,in my mind anyway.
thanks for your information
John

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post #5108 of 5125 Old 02-25-2016, 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by johnniedoo View Post
I use madVr all the time for all kinds of vids and movies . i use it with MPC-BE and Pot Player I just discovered . it is fairly good and easy to use. I use ffdshow in MPC as external filters so i am able to tweak the different variety of vids and movies i do have here.
I use the same (MPC-HC). Then I suggest to buy/borrow an i1DisplayPro and make a 3dlut for your TV to use with madVR, it's full automatic procedure (thanks to our dear devs) and you can forget everything that you heard/read about "standard" calibration. That's the ultimate solution and you only have to do it once (if you won't change anything in your chain). Here's it's topic if you're interested in it: MadVR - ArgyllCMS

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post #5109 of 5125 Old 04-18-2016, 06:04 PM
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I can not borrow a calibrator , so need to buy something. I saw the colormonki smile and display, also found links the spyder5 trio of , i suppose, competing products.
Would any of these be of value to a non professional but enthusiastic TV, streaming video, blu ray ,dvd watcher?
thanks
john
p.s.
I should mention I only have a couple of large screen lcd, lcd/led tvs and 4 1080p monitors in total. none really need to be matching to another either. printing or picture making is not a big deal anymore, for me.

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post #5110 of 5125 Old 04-20-2016, 03:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnniedoo View Post
I can not borrow a calibrator , so need to buy something. I saw the colormonki smile and display, also found links the spyder5 trio of , i suppose, competing products.
Would any of these be of value to a non professional but enthusiastic TV, streaming video, blu ray ,dvd watcher?
thanks
john
p.s.
I should mention I only have a couple of large screen lcd, lcd/led tvs and 4 1080p monitors in total. none really need to be matching to another either. printing or picture making is not a big deal anymore, for me.
I'd say yes It's good fun to play with it and enjoy the result, especially if you have time and money for that.
I'd vote for the i1DisplayPro (colorimeter) out of those 3: you can buy it second hand, it won't age. And you don't need a driver for it (it's USB HID device).
(The full story is: you can get close to perfect result if you also have a spectrophotometer (like i1pro, you want to buy it second hand, because it's street price is insane for a new one ) along with your colorimeter, to be able to create a correction matrix with it for the given display and colorimeter.)

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post #5111 of 5125 Old 04-20-2016, 03:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chros73 View Post
I can't send 4:4:4 to my 55LD650. I have tried both HDMI1 (DVI) and HDMI2 input, with and without having my Yamaha receiver in the chain.
Now, I'm using HDMI1 input with my laptop, and if I set the label of it to PC AND set the refresh rate to 60 Hz then I'll get somehow different result but still far from 4:4:4. (Otherwise I use the TV with different refresh rates with the help of madVR according to the content that is played.)
Does anyone manage to get 4:4:4 with these sets?
Can we somehow bypass the image enhancement of chip using non 60Hz? I 'd like to disable it completely (Maybe it'd help.)
I managed to get into EZ-Adjut and In-Start menus (with the help of Samsung S5 and AnyRemote), but I can't see any option for it.

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post #5112 of 5125 Old 06-11-2016, 04:00 PM
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Still, lots of great information here. gives rise to other ideas. i have yet to buy any calibrations hardware, adjust the color with the dvd/bd I got here 6yrs ago
I have one issue that I just now noticed
the Widgets on the remote now all fail. I had been getting the Yahoo weather and only checked it out now and then. usually, by accident when my thumb clicked on the lower middle missing the center button.I had given up with the Netcast a year and a half or 2 ago with all the other failures. i quit netflix just about 2yrs ago, Youtube is a dud now, picasa is a dud.
I am angry with LG and Yahoo, just dropped all support , i have not even been able to find google search (yahoo search, for that matter either)
I am up to the latest firmware, maybe that killed it all off? just dont know,
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post #5113 of 5125 Old 04-06-2017, 01:02 PM
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Just wondering if anyone still has a functioning TV of these series.

My 42LD550 has died after 6+ years of very light service, while my no-name Olevia 247THD is going strong, knock wood!, after 10+ years of very heavy use.

On the LG, all I get is the infamous slow-pulsing front red light and no picture, backlight or sound.

Looking at the power supply board, I don't see any bulging capacitors (though that doesn't mean they're not bad) and all the power output pins to the main board appear to have the correct voltages.

I don't see anything suspiciously blackened on the power supply or main boards and there was no accumulation of dust inside, no obviously bad solder connections.

I've tried re-seating all the cables.

At this point, it would cost maybe $50 (PS alone) to $180 (PS + main board) to buy replacement boards to see if that'd fix this thing. Taking it to a TV repair place would probably cost at least $100 for diagnostic labor.

Meanwhile, a trip to Costco shows I could spend just a little more money and get a new, bigger, maybe 4K UHD TV with a 4-year warranty.

So yeah, I'm really just venting a little (like a blown capacitor? :-) more than seeking diagnostic/repair advice. But if anybody here has seen this problem on the LD550 series and either fixed it or determined for sure that it's time to abandon the TV, I'd appreciate hearing from you.
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post #5114 of 5125 Old 04-06-2017, 02:58 PM
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^^^^^ I have the LD520 and it is working as well as it did when I purchased it brand new. I calibrated it and have only had to make a few minor adjustments over the years. It is heavily used as it is our primary tv.
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post #5115 of 5125 Old 04-07-2017, 04:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vidiot1985 View Post
Just wondering if anyone still has a functioning TV of these series.

My 42LD550 has died after 6+ years of very light service, while my no-name Olevia 247THD is going strong, knock wood!, after 10+ years of very heavy use....

...So yeah, I'm really just venting a little (like a blown capacitor? :-) more than seeking diagnostic/repair advice. But if anybody here has seen this problem on the LD550 series and either fixed it or determined for sure that it's time to abandon the TV, I'd appreciate hearing from you.

Since you asked: My LG 42LD550 is still working almost perfectly. One HDMI input is defunct, but that died shortly after purchase and since I had more than necessary, I never saw the need to call Costco or have it fixed. In every other way, it's fine.

I have no words of wisdom for you, other than that any electronics repair has to be very inexpensive to be worthwhile these days. As always, it's a judgment call.

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post #5116 of 5125 Old 04-07-2017, 04:57 PM
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Lg42ld550

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Originally Posted by vidiot1985 View Post
Just wondering if anyone still has a functioning TV of these series.

My 42LD550 has died after 6+ years of very light service, while my no-name Olevia 247THD is going strong, knock wood!, after 10+ years of very heavy use.

On the LG, all I get is the infamous slow-pulsing front red light and no picture, backlight or sound.

Looking at the power supply board, I don't see any bulging capacitors (though that doesn't mean they're not bad) and all the power output pins to the main board appear to have the correct voltages.

I don't see anything suspiciously blackened on the power supply or main boards and there was no accumulation of dust inside, no obviously bad solder connections.

I've tried re-seating all the cables.

At this point, it would cost maybe $50 (PS alone) to $180 (PS + main board) to buy replacement boards to see if that'd fix this thing. Taking it to a TV repair place would probably cost at least $100 for diagnostic labor.

Meanwhile, a trip to Costco shows I could spend just a little more money and get a new, bigger, maybe 4K UHD TV with a 4-year warranty.

So yeah, I'm really just venting a little (like a blown capacitor? :-) more than seeking diagnostic/repair advice. But if anybody here has seen this problem on the LD550 series and either fixed it or determined for sure that it's time to abandon the TV, I'd appreciate hearing from you.
I have been coming to this forum since I bought my 42LD550 in June of 2010 brand new. I watch it daily and use it as a 2nd or 3rd monitor for my computers. I guess it was a just pre smart type tv. It had the Netflix, and a handful of other streaming services but they were not very well integrated and even the YouTube quit functioning well and Netflix was better on the tv side since I could run it through my OnkyoTX Sr608 in pc mode and not tv. a slight but important difference for me and my set up.
as a note though, my sister came by to visit and couldnt believe how good the color was the black/contrast and color accuracy to her eye was 'astounding' not even considering the thing is about 7yrs old with seriously heavy use under its belt. she, by the way , also has a 42 or 49" LG but the lcd/led model from a year or to after. maybe in 2012. she likes mine better in this respect.
i have been happy with mine but as my prior posts may indicate-I have been waiting for the bad HDMI or melted capacitor or bad board, I have my amazon save list with the few part numbers i have gleaned from following the posts ,just in case.
I use my AMD GPU virtual super resolution(I have gone from AMD HD4670 1gb, 4870 1gb, HD5870 1gb, 7950 3gb OC Boost and now a RX480 8gb) and play old black and white videos streamed from my Western Digital My Book Duo personal cloud or home network server,, the exact name of the thing had changed a few times since i bought it and subsequent firmware upgrades re name it for some reason. anyway, i am able to watch at 24/1080p, the super res needs to be 60 only. but from color to black and white madVr ,MPC BE reclock everything comes out looking fine and way better than on my Samsung 1080p sets and monitors. i have a 55" LG Plasma , last one they made which is super sharp, great colors contrast and all. but i still like the overall greatness of this particular LG 550 model. each and every gpu has looked just fine on this tv, no stuttering nothing wrong .I tend not to use the tru motion 120hz though i bought it thinking it could do more than it does. I read plenty about the practice of selling the 60hz sets as 120 so I knew what I wasnt getting for my $700 at the time. i do try to fit it in when i play around with my saved iso /dvd and mpgs i stream in here. The only 'calibration' I did was with the AVC HD 709 disc made here and learned about here at these forums-used it once at the beginning and one more time 2yrs ago. nothing since. I just noticed my hardware or sig line at the bottom hasnt been updated in a couple/3 years. but no big deal
I was disappointed that the semi smart 'featurettes' failed , the widgets were left to die, i did like the weather at the push of the button for all the 4 or 5 areas i go to around the world to see what is happening there. but that went down the tank with YouTube and other things. it has been at least a year since i even tried those features (the Netflix built in was the final selling point that prompted my decision to get LG over Samsung) that ,Pandora, YouTube mlb and the one other thing i forget. but still glad i picked this one over the other options i had back in 2010.
that 's my 2¢ worth of the LG42LD550 uses and abuses over 7yrs. oh, yeah I bought 4yrs extended warranty or something like that, never made one call on it. i suspected i would and am glad i didnt.

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post #5117 of 5125 Old 04-09-2017, 05:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vidiot1985 View Post
Just wondering if anyone still has a functioning TV of these series.
...
Woohoo! I can count my TV among the still functioning numbers after trying the oven bake method (thanks, zedic dot com!) on the main board as a last resort before bringing the TV to the recycling center.

I don't know how long it'll last, but at the very least I was able to do a factory reset to clear out whatever netflix, yahoo, youtube and other login info might have been saved in the NVRAM on the main board.

I've been using this only as a monitor for a computer anyway for a while now, so no big loss in not using the NetSmart features (if they even work these days, I don't know, since the firmware hasn't been updated in years).
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post #5118 of 5125 Old 04-09-2017, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by vidiot1985 View Post
Woohoo! I can count my TV among the still functioning numbers after trying the oven bake method (thanks, zedic dot com!) on the main board as a last resort before bringing the TV to the recycling center.

I don't know how long it'll last, but at the very least I was able to do a factory reset to clear out whatever netflix, yahoo, youtube and other login info might have been saved in the NVRAM on the main board.

I've been using this only as a monitor for a computer anyway for a while now, so no big loss in not using the NetSmart features (if they even work these days, I don't know, since the firmware hasn't been updated in years).
Boy,
thanks for posting this success of sorts
I was about to refer back to the posters who told of one success story or another with the leaking capacitors , baking motherboard reports and the other methods of salvation. I know amazon has listed a few of the broken part replacements . HDMI and motherboard but there were so many that became available around the same time frame i needed to open the set to take a picture to compare. so, I did nothing further in that regard since my HDMI panel issue is still intermittent. I do still use the tuner sometimes but the computer monitor aspect is primary and as you noted, not even sure if the Net-Smart functions. i forgot the name of it till i read your post. It is still clearly on the remote, just looked. but i use it in the dark all the time.
I am glad to hear your tv is among the survivors again, or still
John

LG42LD550, ONKYO TX SR608, POLK M70s 7.1POLK 10"SUB, LG BD570, PINNACLE USB PVR-HD. GA990FXA UD3, SAPPHIRE HD 7950 OC 3Gb GDDR5, AMD FX-8150BE@4.0, 16Gb GSKILL DDR3 1600, SSD: CRUCIAL M4 128Gb, HDD: 3- 1TB SPINPOINT F3, WD4GB MY BOOK DUO LAN CLOUD , CISCO E3200, TP LINK 8PORT SWITCH; CISCO DOCS3.0
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post #5119 of 5125 Old 04-19-2017, 02:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vidiot1985 View Post
Woohoo! I can count my TV among the still functioning numbers after trying the oven bake method (thanks, zedic dot com!) on the main board as a last resort before bringing the TV to the recycling center.

I don't know how long it'll last, but at the very least I was able to do a factory reset to clear out whatever netflix, yahoo, youtube and other login info might have been saved in the NVRAM on the main board.

I've been using this only as a monitor for a computer anyway for a while now, so no big loss in not using the NetSmart features (if they even work these days, I don't know, since the firmware hasn't been updated in years).
Woow! Have you just done it???!!
Can you write a bit more about it, please How long has to be put in, how hard to take it apart, etc ...
I'd buy you a beer if you'd happened to be around ...

The reason I'm asking is: my HDMI ports seems to be dead after 6 years It happened on Easter, I watched it during the afternoon, switched it off, and tried to watch it during the evening, but nothing, since then it says: "Connecting..." , "No signal"
It's a 55LD650, which I only use as a Monitor with a laptop via HDMI. (Take a look at my signature for more details.)
I tested all the 3 HDMI ports on it, but nothing.
Quick test shows:
- taken out the AVR doesn't make a difference
- HDMI of laptop with the same cable is working fine with an external 24" monitor

Thanks

MSI GE60(i73630QM,16GB,IntelHD4000(v10.18.10.4276)+GeF orceGT650m(2GB,v355.98)+muxless,1920x1080@60Hz,Ple xtor M5M 256GB SSD,Win8.1x64+MPC-HCx64+LAV+MadVR)+Yamaha RX-830+LG 55LD650(1080p@24/25/30/60Hz)

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Woow! Have you just done it???!!
Can you write a bit more about it, please How long has to be put in, how hard to take it apart, etc ...
...

Thanks
Someone has already written up the procedure. The info you are looking for is found here. Use it at your own risk of course.

There are also videos on youtube.

FWIW, I used a toaster oven outside to avoid smelling up the house.
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Originally Posted by vidiot1985 View Post
Someone has already written up the procedure. The info you are looking for is found here. Use it at your own risk of course.

There are also videos on youtube.

FWIW, I used a toaster oven outside to avoid smelling up the house.
Cheers, I'll give it a try when I'll be in the mood.
I even found my exact size-model amongst the comments Now I definitely know what the problem is!
Thank You!

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Someone has already written up the procedure. The info you are looking for is found here. Use it at your own risk of course.
Aaaaaand .... It worked!!!
Taking it apart wasn't a problem, but carrying that huge screen by myself (almost 40kg), and hold/lift it by 1 arm only (since it's so big), that was annoying
My beer offer still stands ...
Thank You for mentioning here as well, once more!

Quote:
Originally Posted by vidiot1985 View Post
There are also videos on youtube.
It was also a good idea, cheers.

Which board did you have to heat up? Was it different for you? (Mine was the green connection-board, where the HDMI connections reside.)

As you (and others) mentioned, the question is how long it will last. The result seems to be vary, from 1 month to 2-3 years, the average is about 4 months.

About the possible problems:
I'm not sure anymore that the soldering is the problem, but I tend to think that the chips themselves. Take a look at
of this video.
It seems that this HDMI problem is out there for LG devices. I makes me tell me that the chip is the problem, maybe a heatsink is missing from it (I didn't have any spare back home, but I'll by some just in case for the next time )

PS: it just turned out by accident that one of my college has fixed his old Macbook Pro (from 2007) in this way! He had to do it one more time after 1 year again.

Edit: I just found this
about the faulty HDMI chips and it backs up my theory.

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post #5123 of 5125 Old 04-20-2017, 12:25 PM
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...
My beer offer still stands ...
...

Which board did you have to heat up? Was it different for you? (Mine was the green connection-board, where the HDMI connections reside.)

....
No worries about the beer--helping to keep another TV from the landfill or recycling bin at least for a few more years is satisfaction enough.

I too had to bake the main board with all the video ports, RF tuner, etc. on it. AFAIK, the type of problem fixed by the baking method is typically with boards with the particular type of integrated circuit package you see on the mainboard, with inaccessible connections, not the discrete components you generally have on the power supply board (though if you have bad/cracked solder on those, I suppose baking could help and be faster than resoldering everything with an iron.
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post #5124 of 5125 Old 04-21-2017, 02:09 AM
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No worries about the beer--helping to keep another TV from the landfill or recycling bin at least for a few more years is satisfaction enough.

I too had to bake the main board with all the video ports, RF tuner, etc. on it. AFAIK, the type of problem fixed by the baking method is typically with boards with the particular type of integrated circuit package you see on the mainboard, with inaccessible connections, not the discrete components you generally have on the power supply board (though if you have bad/cracked solder on those, I suppose baking could help and be faster than resoldering everything with an iron.
Thanks.

About my problem (HDMI "No signal"): I'm pretty sure that Only the HDMI chip is responsible for that. So next time (if it will come ) I'll try out the hairdryer method only (instead of baking), if it's not enough then I'll buy a cheap heatgun, and I'll only heat that chip for couple of minutes. Also, I'll put a small heatsink (like for RAM) on top of it with thermal paste.

More than this, I'll cut a hole at the proper place of the plastic back, slightly bigger than the problematic board (to be able to easily accessible without taking the whole TV apart), and use a wider sticky tape to place it back.
In this way, I won't have to spend 3 hours to fix it, instead it'll take 10 minutes.

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post #5125 of 5125 Old 06-17-2017, 10:24 AM
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About my problem (HDMI "No signal"): I'm pretty sure that Only the HDMI chip is responsible for that. So next time (if it will come ) I'll try out the hairdryer method only (instead of baking),
My baked TV lasted this long (almost 2 months): today the problem reappeared. I quickly tried out the hairdryer method on the HDMI chip itself (for about 3 minutes), but it didn't work.
The best thing would be to buy a new mainboard (EBU60844955), but I couldn't find any on the net.

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