Official Samsung UNXXD8000 Owners' Thread - Page 166 - AVS Forum
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post #4951 of 8440 Old 08-29-2011, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by nesbo View Post


Well guys, just got samsung's replacement....and after some preliminary testing, it looks great! Uniformity looks good, I see no obvious banding, no dead pixels! August build. Hope to do more testing later, but so far I am pleased!

That's great news. I'm glad you got a August build as well. I'm happy to see that people are getting good sets finally.
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post #4952 of 8440 Old 08-29-2011, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by normh View Post

Just curious, with all of the problems I've read on this tv which have been posted since March why are people still purchasing it? Is the full array panel sets the answer, I was ready to purchase the 8000 but having second thoughts.

To be honest, I've been here over 6 years and this is the most troubled Samsung thread I can recall in all that time and I really like the D8000 when I see it in stores but then when I read these owners threaads month after month and the number of owners that swapped out numerous panels and ultimately switch to the HX929 I've moved to that camp and waiting for the 65" HX929 based upon the overwhelming issues that have run it's course on this forum.

Just yesterday I was viewing a few D8000 units at BB and was impressed with in-store but I fully understand how different in-home viewing can be and I thought I'd see much better feedback here than this month after month, more like the B8500 had excellent feedback throughout it's short life.

I'm not anti-Samsung as I own a 55" C6400 that the wife loves but it has it's flaws with poor shadow details and sometimes blotchy blacks/crush that I wouldn't want in my primary HT Panel. Samsung should have adapted that B8500 and simply paid Sharp to use the patents and expanded on the best panel they've built IMO - they never identified publicly which four patents they were found guilty on though but it was the B8500 that was not renewed immediately thereafter so we don't know what patents were involved that I've ever seen published. Micro Dimming would seem must cheaper mode and perhaps more profitable to produce than a fully backlit with hundreds of zones. Perhaps with pressure of competition from Sony, LG, Vizio and Elite - Samsung may have something new up their sleeves for 2012 - if they want to stay on top it seems they need to bring something like the B8500 back into the picture.

Samsung 65F8000, 60D8000, 40HU6350, Panasonic 50E60 LCD's
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post #4953 of 8440 Old 08-29-2011, 11:18 AM
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Great Price on 3D glasses today only....

http://www.emtcompany.com/todays-big...-day-sale.html

$29 bucks for the battery ones. 3100 samsungs

Great way to boost the number of people over to watch eye candy... lol
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post #4954 of 8440 Old 08-29-2011, 11:58 AM
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Count me among the D8000 owners who got an early build replaced with an August build. My first set had both sides washed out about 1/4 of the way in on both sides. Mostly notable watching sports (golf particularly when the ball would roll across the green). Support had me change a couple settings for a few weeks and when that didn't help and with no aurthorized repair in my area, they were sending a new set.

After a few days, I must say that problem no longer exists. There may be a very minor, subtle, occasional 1" lightenss on the left side, but as infrequently as I notice it, I am quite happy with this set. It might be my imagination, but the 3D seems better as well, although I have not watched much of that until starting Thursday night when college football starts!
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post #4955 of 8440 Old 08-29-2011, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robsis View Post

I don't seem to remember it being on the box....maybe someone else can confirm; however, back when I bought my Samsung LNT4671 several years ago we had to open the box at the store to get the build off the unit (there was a change in the unit after 2 months and a reason to get a newer unit) and when they just brought my new August 2011 build in, I helped the driver unbox it and saw nothing on the box, and anxiously went looking on the unit to verify it was a new/newer build, and indeed, it was, much to my relief!

I did not find the build date on the box. I only found it on the back of the television
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post #4956 of 8440 Old 08-29-2011, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OlderNDirt View Post

Count me among the D8000 owners who got an early build replaced with an August build. My first set had both sides washed out about 1/4 of the way in on both sides. Mostly notable watching sports (golf particularly when the ball would roll across the green). Support had me change a couple settings for a few weeks and when that didn't help and with no aurthorized repair in my area, they were sending a new set.

After a few days, I must say that problem no longer exists. There may be a very minor, subtle, occasional 1" lightenss on the left side, but as infrequently as I notice it, I am quite happy with this set. It might be my imagination, but the 3D seems better as well, although I have not watched much of that until starting Thursday night when college football starts!

I honestly was skeptical that "build date" could make a difference. But I'm starting to think the earlier ones did have some quality control issues. Now granted, I think edge lit TVs like Samsung will have some faults to it because of the nature of the technology, I see a huge difference from my February TV and my new August TV. I am just thrilled so far with this television, I now feel like I finally received my money's worth.
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post #4957 of 8440 Old 08-29-2011, 12:23 PM
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@westa, for a flagship, these have had embarrassing build quality from the get go. It's a shame and I concur. I'd add that I'm still considering other Samsung's in my mix for possible 2011 TV purchase, but not these.

There is no difference in HDMI cables. If you can see the picture without visible dropouts or sparklies, the cable is working at 100%. No other cable will display a better version of that picture. You're simply wrong if you think there is a better digital cable than one that is already working.
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post #4958 of 8440 Old 08-29-2011, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Andystar View Post

Hi guys.

I'm a complete noob, and am working my way through this topic. I am hoping folks here can help, or at least point me in the right direction on some very basic information.

I just purchased and am waiting for delivery on a un55D8000 and have some connection questions. I plan on connecting the 558000 to a smasung blue ray player, a Bose T-20 surround sound system, a Dish networks HD DVR, my FIOS wireless computer network.

It's my understanding (as explained to me by the sales clerk) that the blure ray, and DVR will connect to the Bose system and then one HMDI cable will conect to the TV.

However, I was told that any of the wireless appson the Samsung TV will not play through the Bose. (?!?!) And that if I wanted to access Netflix or Hula, I would be better off doing it through the Blu Ray player so the audio would be played through the bose.

I am having a hard time believing that the wirless aplication cannot be played through my surround sound. Is there a way to have the Samsung un55D8000 on screen apps play though my sournd sound?


Additionaly, does the un558000 require a dongle to conect to the wireless network? I am getting conflicting answers on this. Can anyone confirm this as well?

Finally I saw a CNET video where the 3d glasses where rechargeable via a USB cable to the TV. However, the salesman is telling me that's not the case. What's the real deal?

Thanks guys, I appreciate your help!

If you use HDMI 2, it has ARC, or Audio Return Channel, and you will get the audio signal from the TV, when you use Samsung Apps, back to the Bose, IF the Bose supports it. If the Bose does not support ARC, the TV does have audio outs that you could use to connect to the Bose.

No dongle required to connect to the internet. When you turn your unit on for the first time, it will allow you to set up your wireless. I have 7 Mbps and it has worked flawlessly for me on all three of my units.

As to the 3D glasses, Samsung has several types. The ones that come with the unit are the rechargeable, lighter weight ones that charge via USB cable, either through your TV or any powered USB connection. The ones that come with the 3D kit are a little bulkier and use replaceable batteries.

HTH and enjoy your new set!

Ptree:

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post #4959 of 8440 Old 08-29-2011, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rogo View Post

@westa, for a flagship, these have had embarrassing build quality from the get go. It's a shame and I concur. I'd add that I'm still considering other Samsung's in my mix for possible 2011 TV purchase, but not these.

Rogo,

You are quite right. Had it not been for the fact that this unit fit perfectly where we needed it (and the wife liked the style quite a bit), I would've asked for my money back right away and sought something else, rather than go for a new panel, then a total exchange.

It is good to see Samsung has apparently addressed the problem; however, this has been a very frustrating experience to get the good unit that should have showed up the first time, especially at this price point. (And then, I had to loosen a few screws to get the picture right, anyway!)

Here's hoping that they, as a company, have learned something from this debacle, as I have always thought that their products were excellent. As of today, tho, they are down a notch in my eyes....even though they finally got it right.

Ptree:

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post #4960 of 8440 Old 08-29-2011, 03:40 PM
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Two questions...

1. How can I tell if I have a newer build UN55D8000? Mine was built in July of 2011.

2. Is there any way to set the judder at 10 and stop (or slowdown) the distortion?

Thanks so much!
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post #4961 of 8440 Old 08-29-2011, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by gagit811 View Post

I'm sure it the TV as it prompts me to setup a network connection as if it is the first time setting it up. The TV just wont save the wireless network settings. I also have a $150 D-link gaming router. If it were the router the network settings would save to the TV but not be able to connect to the internet or router.

I agree I don't think it has anything to do with the router. It seems to much of coincidence that it was working perfectly and then directly after software upgrade it does not save the wep key anymore, but will work fine when you re-enter it. I haven't had any other problems with the wi-fi on my asus transformer, 2 laptops, 3 desktop computers, wii or ps3 on the same router.
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post #4962 of 8440 Old 08-29-2011, 07:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robsis View Post


I don't seem to remember it being on the box....maybe someone else can confirm; however, back when I bought my Samsung LNT4671 several years ago we had to open the box at the store to get the build off the unit (there was a change in the unit after 2 months and a reason to get a newer unit) and when they just brought my new August 2011 build in, I helped the driver unbox it and saw nothing on the box, and anxiously went looking on the unit to verify it was a new/newer build, and indeed, it was, much to my relief!

Where did you purchase it from?
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post #4963 of 8440 Old 08-29-2011, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by reggie319 View Post

Where did you purchase it from?

Originally, from US-Appliance (an April '11 build). The August '11 replacement came directly from Samsung. Both boxes and packaging were identical.

Ptree:

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post #4964 of 8440 Old 08-29-2011, 10:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robsis View Post

Rogo,

You are quite right. Had it not been for the fact that this unit fit perfectly where we needed it (and the wife liked the style quite a bit), I would've asked for my money back right away and sought something else, rather than go for a new panel, then a total exchange.

It is good to see Samsung has apparently addressed the problem; however, this has been a very frustrating experience to get the good unit that should have showed up the first time, especially at this price point. (And then, I had to loosen a few screws to get the picture right, anyway!)

Here's hoping that they, as a company, have learned something from this debacle, as I have always thought that their products were excellent. As of today, tho, they are down a notch in my eyes....even though they finally got it right.

I am delighted you ended up with a good one. It shouldn't be this hard, but at least the results were worth it.

There is no difference in HDMI cables. If you can see the picture without visible dropouts or sparklies, the cable is working at 100%. No other cable will display a better version of that picture. You're simply wrong if you think there is a better digital cable than one that is already working.
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post #4965 of 8440 Old 08-29-2011, 10:27 PM
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my und800 55 inch worked perfect until the new software upgrade i am afraid they will ship me a new one that has problems.
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post #4966 of 8440 Old 08-29-2011, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by brian9 View Post

my und800 55 inch worked perfect until the new software upgrade i am afraid they will ship me a new one that has problems.

The new firmware update screwed my 7000 up as well. My picture looks completely fake even though I have all the image processing stuff turned off. I also get lag here and there which leads me to believe the processor is still trying to add frames to the picture even though its disabled. A lot of people with the 6000 are complaining about tge same thing as well. I will be calling Samsung tomorrow to tell them I need a new tv since their update screwed it up.
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post #4967 of 8440 Old 08-30-2011, 06:43 AM
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What are some of the problems you should look for?
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post #4968 of 8440 Old 08-30-2011, 07:25 AM
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What are some of the problems you should look for?


Don't go looking for problems. If the picture looks good to you, that's what counts. While some people have severe picture problems, some others reading these threads start nit picking their picture quality and get all worked up about relatively minor issues. They turn brightness, back light or contrast all the way up as a test and suddenly they see flash lighting or clouds. No one would watch TV with those settings, but now with a perceived problem, they demand an exchange. I have one of the first 65D8000's with the first build date. And to me, the picture is close to perfect. I am sure if I turned up some settings, I could find issues too.
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post #4969 of 8440 Old 08-30-2011, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by FBlack View Post

Don't go looking for problems. If the picture looks good to you, that's what counts. While some people have severe picture problems, some others reading these threads start nit picking their picture quality and get all worked up about relatively minor issues. They turn brightness, back light or contrast all the way up as a test and suddenly they see flash lighting or clouds. No one would watch TV with those settings, but now with a perceived problem, they demand an exchange. I have one of the first 65D8000's with the first build date. And to me, the picture is close to perfect. I am sure if I turned up some settings, I could find issues too.

Excellent post, FBlack!

My first panel had mis-aligned leds on the left side of the panel, showing a glowing strip. On the second of my three, a panel replacement, the tech noticed horrible clouding at low levels of backlight and he said the panel was unacceptable. He then went on to tell me how he'd gone out to people's homes who had to set the backlight to 20 to show him any issues, like minor clouding, etc. He laughed and said when he told people that no one sets their backlight to 20, they would get insulted. Said he had to spend extra time going into the service menus to show people the test patterns and, when set properly, how excellent their sets actually looked. In a way, I guess he was calibrating their sets for them.....for free!

My third, a replacement of the entire set, has been excellent now that I have it set up. I guess I could turn the backlight all the way up to 20 and look for things, but why mess with it.....since, like you, I feel the set is close to perfect.

Time to enjoy my purchase!

Ptree:

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post #4970 of 8440 Old 08-30-2011, 08:49 AM
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Thanks Robsis, ! I apprecaite your help.
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post #4971 of 8440 Old 08-30-2011, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by rogo View Post

I am delighted you ended up with a good one. It shouldn't be this hard, but at least the results were worth it.

Ahhhhh, for the good old days when you bought a TV, plugged it in, and MAYBE had to adjust the brightness and/or tint, adjust the 'rabbit ears' and you were done.... (but, then again, the picture was not HD!)

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post #4972 of 8440 Old 08-30-2011, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by FBlack View Post

Don't go looking for problems. If the picture looks good to you, that's what counts. While some people have severe picture problems, some others reading these threads start nit picking their picture quality and get all worked up about relatively minor issues. They turn brightness, back light or contrast all the way up as a test and suddenly they see flash lighting or clouds. No one would watch TV with those settings, but now with a perceived problem, they demand an exchange. I have one of the first 65D8000's with the first build date. And to me, the picture is close to perfect. I am sure if I turned up some settings, I could find issues too.

I disagree. This is an expensive TV with certain features I pay for. If one feature doesn't work as intended it's a fault. If I put my 5 years old 24 inch LCD monitor that I bought for 1300 Euro back then to maximum brightnes , it will show nice and very bright picture without any faults on it. From the otherhand in Samsung D8000 that costs 2500 Euro in Finland I cannot use Brightness feature to full extent because it's broken. And it is strange that official Samsung technichian states that "Nobody uses their TV on maximum brightness". What if I use?
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post #4973 of 8440 Old 08-30-2011, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by robsis View Post

Ahhhhh, for the good old days when you bought a TV, plugged it in, and MAYBE had to adjust the brightness and/or tint, adjust the 'rabbit ears' and you were done.... (but, then again, the picture was not HD!)

If you had a problem, you put the vacuum tubes in a bag, and tested them on the tester in the drug store. Then the kid, say, me, would get you a new tube from under the tester and you were good to go.
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post #4974 of 8440 Old 08-30-2011, 11:13 AM
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I disagree. This is an expensive TV with certain features I pay for. If one feature doesn't work as intended it's a fault. If I put my 5 years old 24 inch LCD monitor that I bought for 1300 Euro back then to maximum brightnes , it will show nice and very bright picture without any faults on it. From the otherhand in Samsung D8000 that costs 2500 Euro in Finland I cannot use Brightness feature to full extent because it's broken. And it is strange that official Samsung technichian states that "Nobody uses their TV on maximum brightness". What if I use?

Respectfully, Brightness is one thing....backlight is another....you are right about brightness; however, that generally isn't the issue, it is the 'backlight' setting and I think Samsung could just eliminate complaints here by just limiting the adjustments via a firmware update and no one would be any worse for wear. My technician said that the extremely high backlight settings were for testing only and pulled up a few built-in test patterns and showed me how they used them to test panel integrity....makes sense to me; however, I am not a TV Tech so I can't tell you the science behind his explanation. JMHO

My example with this unit would be 'Red Riding Hood', a movie with many dark scenes. With a bad panel, the dark scenes with the backlight turned up had blotchy looks about the areas of darkness. A good panel, like the one I finally got, shows uniform 'glow' throughout the dark areas. Turning the backlight down drops the 'glow' and turns it black. I'm not sure how the panel would look at even higher backlight settings, as then the picture is nowhere close to watchable, so why would I look for and complain about a minor uniformity issue at an unwatchable setting? Heck, my Harley runs beautifully at 80-90MPH. Get her over 120 and she doesn't seem as smooth. I'm not going back to my mechanic to complain about that 120+ issue because she does what I want her to at the speeds I need her to perform at. At least that is how I look at the issue, again, JMHO.

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post #4975 of 8440 Old 08-30-2011, 12:10 PM
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Everyone,

I just discovered this forum in the past week and really want to thank everyone for their insight. I'm looking to purchase the UN60d8000 in the next few months. From what I've gathered, the picture quality is subjective, and any errors with the TV typically rest in the older build models (earlier months). It looks like Samsung has made steps with cleaning up some of the issues, so my hope is I get my hands on the August build. I do, however, have one particular question....

1) I plan on buying through Amazon, either direct or through an authorized 3rd party dealer, preferably one that's fullfilled by Amazon (likely Paul's TV, due to lower pricing + fulfillment). I've noticed the price for the D8000 series has come down in the past month....is this trend supposed to continue as the month's pass? It seems like a pretty good bargain at this price, but I'm in the midst of a remodel, and techinically don't need to purchase the TV for another 3 months. Should I jump on this oppty. or let the months pass in hopes of getting it at a lower price? I haven't bought a flat screen in a long time, so I'm not too sure on how price fluctuations work.
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post #4976 of 8440 Old 08-30-2011, 12:57 PM
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How do you ensure that you will get an August build from Amazon?

Quote:
Originally Posted by gmaghaki View Post

Everyone,

I just discovered this forum in the past week and really want to thank everyone for their insight. I'm looking to purchase the UN60d8000 in the next few months. From what I've gathered, the picture quality is subjective, and any errors with the TV typically rest in the older build models (earlier months). It looks like Samsung has made steps with cleaning up some of the issues, so my hope is I get my hands on the August build. I do, however, have one particular question....

1) I plan on buying through Amazon, either direct or through an authorized 3rd party dealer, preferably one that's fullfilled by Amazon (likely Paul's TV, due to lower pricing + fulfillment). I've noticed the price for the D8000 series has come down in the past month....is this trend supposed to continue as the month's pass? It seems like a pretty good bargain at this price, but I'm in the midst of a remodel, and techinically don't need to purchase the TV for another 3 months. Should I jump on this oppty. or let the months pass in hopes of getting it at a lower price? I haven't bought a flat screen in a long time, so I'm not too sure on how price fluctuations work.

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post #4977 of 8440 Old 08-30-2011, 01:02 PM
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How do you ensure that you will get an August build from Amazon?

Maybe you should make note of it when you order it. Maybe do it on the phone. Tell them to check. I'm not sure about the unb8000 but my pn64d8000 has the date under the box. It was stamp print in black. Month and year.
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post #4978 of 8440 Old 08-30-2011, 01:11 PM
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I'm assuming there's no way of ensuring I get the August build, but I will definitely make a point to ask while ordering......any suggestions on how to best monitor prices....the un60d8000 is approx. $2,700 right now. Seems like a steal, if I look at historical prices. Will this price stick around for a while? Go lower? Go up? What have you guys seen? I don't want to waste an oppty and end up paying an extra $1k for no reason....

Maybe as a hedge, I'll go ahead and put a 10% deposit at Paul's TV (salesman's recommendation). I can get out of it, hassle free. If price drops, I get the lower price.
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post #4979 of 8440 Old 08-30-2011, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by gmaghaki View Post

I'm assuming there's no way of ensuring I get the August build, but I will definitely make a point to ask while ordering......any suggestions on how to best monitor prices....the un60d8000 is approx. $2,700 right now. Seems like a steal, if I look at historical prices. Will this price stick around for a while? Go lower? Go up? What have you guys seen? I don't want to waste an oppty and end up paying an extra $1k for no reason....

Maybe as a hedge, I'll go ahead and put a 10% deposit at Paul's TV (salesman's recommendation). I can get out of it, hassle free. If price drops, I get the lower price.

I wouldn't be too worry about price going up, but if you can wait, prices well prob go down. Im a guy who wants it now, and pay full price. Well that's me. Patient well saves you more money, no lies. But if you do buy it online, make sure they have full 30 days refund incase of any defect. And I think amazon offer hay option. Don't buy from any other retailer online with no return policy. A lot of people says abs of main is a scam for there policy return.
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post #4980 of 8440 Old 08-30-2011, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by gmaghaki View Post

I'm assuming there's no way of ensuring I get the August build, but I will definitely make a point to ask while ordering......any suggestions on how to best monitor prices....the un60d8000 is approx. $2,700 right now. Seems like a steal, if I look at historical prices. Will this price stick around for a while? Go lower? Go up? What have you guys seen? I don't want to waste an oppty and end up paying an extra $1k for no reason....

Maybe as a hedge, I'll go ahead and put a 10% deposit at Paul's TV (salesman's recommendation). I can get out of it, hassle free. If price drops, I get the lower price.

It's my belief that prices are lowest at the end of August and the beginning of September.
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