Official Samsung UNXXD6000 Owners' Thread - Page 13 - AVS Forum
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Old 05-05-2011, 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by xlii View Post

From Samsung's own website the 6050 vs the 6000. The 6050 is 100 dollars less but has a 240 hz clear motion rate and a 4.5 million contrast vs the 6000 which is 100 dollars more with a 240 hz clear motion rate and a 5.0 million contrast. I thought the 6000 only had a 120 hz cmr? Has Samsung upped the specs?

http://www.samsung.com/us/video/tvs/UN46D6050TFXZA?

http://www.samsung.com/us/video/tvs/UN46D6000SFXZA

FYI, Samsung's website is quite a mess. They often get their own specs mixed up or wrong believe it or not.

It makes it very difficult to get facts straight especially with the bajillion different models, exclusives and the tiny differences between them...
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Old 05-05-2011, 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by toonj64 View Post

FYI, Samsung's website is quite a mess. They often get their own specs mixed up or wrong believe it or not.

It makes it very difficult to get facts straight especially with the bajillion different models, exclusives and the tiny differences between them...

I'm thinking of buying the un46d6000 very soon. I'm sure the last time I looked at the Samsung spec page it read a cmr of 120. Now I just checked the spec page for the un46d6400 and it's cmr is now listed as 480. I'm sure that was listed as 240 cmr last time I looked. Either I'm slipping or????

http://www.samsung.com/us/video/tvs/...UFXZA-features
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Old 05-05-2011, 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by toonj64 View Post

FYI, Samsung's website is quite a mess. They often get their own specs mixed up or wrong believe it or not.

It makes it very difficult to get facts straight especially with the bajillion different models, exclusives and the tiny differences between them...

It's 120 hz
http://www.costco.ca/Browse/Product....atchallpartial
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Old 05-05-2011, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by jbdawson View Post

Emaych-

I apologize just saw your post in reply to the vibration will try to do once I get my old one back, mind you this new set which has god awful clouding does the same thing and is getting swapped back for my old set which had minor flashlighting that I can live with this one I can't. It's a problem on most sets im sure just not noticeable especially since most use AVR out the box.

As far as the tape how long do you cut when placing? For it to have any effect wouldn't you have to apply almost from one side of the frame to the other? Also is it just over the lower half where the speakers are or all over? imagine like you said it isn't pretty

I just played it by ear -- literally. First thing was the area around the speakers was buzzing -- taped every square inch in that immediate vicinity, then worked outward wherever I heard the vibration coming from. I had no assurance any of it would work since it seemed like part of the resonance was the panel vibrating against internal elements, and that was only going to be stopped if padded from the inside to keep the panel free of, or buffered from, whatever it contacted inside.

The tape square or rectangular dimensions were just based on available space (never covering any vents of screws), some sense of symmetry, and got more spaced out the further from the speakers I got. In the end, I did tape up some places toward the top -- it is a very loose panel after all (meaning you can easily bounce it back and forth just by touching it). Probably 8-10 areas taped up with 6-7 foam pads taped into them.

End result was that the buzzing and vibration almost entirely gone, with very robust sound. Occasionally with a particularly strong resonant frequency, I can still barely detect it. Some soundtracks worse than others for this. INCEPTION had that trigger frequency almost all the way through, but a good test of what is happening on your set would be to put on the closing credits if you have the blu-ray, go to the back of the set, listen and just press various areas with your fingers or a hand-held foam pad -- this should demonstrate where it is vibrating and what would cure it.

As I say, I did this to see if it worked. It did, so there is no cause (if I am not going to consider this a reason to return the set) to remove it or do anything different until such time as I might buy a soundbar. Even then, I might not take the stuff off -- there is no real compelling reason to do so -- I'm only satisfying myself and don't have to even look at what I've done, so the sound improvement works for me, even though generally speaking, it is sad to have to resort to this. My thought is that Samsung is trying to save on materials -- make the sets cheaper, as the price drops, and that would be fair enough I suppose. Plus they had quite a bit more venting in this years versus last (which did not have this panel problem).

I don't know, you could, I suppose, just regard these sets as coming with no usable speakers at all, with aftermarket soundbar a strict necessity, but I've really got no convenient place for all that jazz, plus extra wiring, etc. -- have not gotten around to those considerations, in any event...
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Old 05-05-2011, 04:07 PM
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I had a un46c6300, just got it replaced today due to clouding issues, and received un46d6300, I found the isf calibration settings for the tv below. After watching "troy" in blu-ray, im am very satisfied with the results, so far this settings is definitely a keeper, didnt really need to readjust any settings.

http://reviews.lcdtvbuyingguide.com/...-p2.html#page2


Picture Mode: Movie
Backlight 13
Constrast 90
Brightness 49
Sharpness 10
Color 49
Tint G51/R49

PICTURE OPTIONS
Color tone WARM2
Digital Noise Filter OFF
MPEG Noise Filter OFF
HDMI Black Level LOW
Film Mode OFF
Auto Motion Plus OFF
ADVANCED SETTINGS
Black Tone OFF
Dynamic Contrast OFF
Shadow Detail 2
GAMMA 0
Fleshtone 0
Edge Enhancement OFF
Motion Lighting OFF
LED Motion Plus Off

10p White Balance ON

10P WHITE BALANCE SETTINGS

Interval 1 Red: -3 Green: -1 Blue: -3
Interval 2 Red: -4 Green: -1 Blue: 0
Interval 3 Red: -3 Green: 1 Blue: 1
Interval 4 Red: -4 Green: 3 Blue: 4
Interval 5 Red: -6 Green: 4 Blue: 6
Interval 6 Red: -8 Green: 2 Blue: 4
Interval 7 Red: -8 Green: 4 Blue: 6
Interval 8 Red: -9 Green: 2 Blue: 7
Interval 9 Red: -7 Green: 3 Blue: 4
Interval 10 Red: -10 Green: 7 Blue: 10
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Old 05-06-2011, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by flyimages View Post

I had a un46c6300, just got it replaced today due to clouding issues, and received un46d6300, I found the isf calibration settings for the tv below. After watching "troy" in blu-ray, im am very satisfied with the results, so far this settings is definitely a keeper, didnt really need to readjust any settings.

http://reviews.lcdtvbuyingguide.com/...-p2.html#page2


Picture Mode: Movie
Backlight 13
Constrast 90
Brightness 49
Sharpness 10
Color 49
Tint G51/R49

PICTURE OPTIONS
Color tone WARM2
Digital Noise Filter OFF
MPEG Noise Filter OFF
HDMI Black Level LOW
Film Mode OFF
Auto Motion Plus OFF
ADVANCED SETTINGS
Black Tone OFF
Dynamic Contrast OFF
Shadow Detail 2
GAMMA 0
Fleshtone 0
Edge Enhancement OFF
Motion Lighting OFF
LED Motion Plus Off

10p White Balance ON

10P WHITE BALANCE SETTINGS

Interval 1 Red: -3 Green: -1 Blue: -3
Interval 2 Red: -4 Green: -1 Blue: 0
Interval 3 Red: -3 Green: 1 Blue: 1
Interval 4 Red: -4 Green: 3 Blue: 4
Interval 5 Red: -6 Green: 4 Blue: 6
Interval 6 Red: -8 Green: 2 Blue: 4
Interval 7 Red: -8 Green: 4 Blue: 6
Interval 8 Red: -9 Green: 2 Blue: 7
Interval 9 Red: -7 Green: 3 Blue: 4
Interval 10 Red: -10 Green: 7 Blue: 10

Got to say I was curious amidst all the discussion of backlight levels, etc. Thought I would give an experimental whirl to the settings above. WOW. More power to you man, but not sure why anyone would buy a set that looked this way. If this is what I'd seen in the store, I might just have concluded that the technology was so far from watchable that maybe if I checked in again in five years or so.....
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Old 05-06-2011, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Emaych View Post
Got to say I was curious amidst all the discussion of backlight levels, etc. Thought I would give an experimental whirl to the settings above. WOW. More power to you man, but not sure why anyone would buy a set that looked this way. If this is what I'd seen in the store, I might just have concluded that the technology was so far from watchable that maybe if I checked in again in five years or so.....
I know what you mean but that's the thing with PROPER calibration. Not wanting to get in a debate on this AGAIN but by proper we mean the calibration the filmakers / TV producers, etc, use so that if something is supposed to look slightly red or slightly tinted blue, then that is what you will see, as intended.

In bright daylight, yes this kind of setting will look very murky but in total dark it really is fine.
There are two problems for the common TV buyer. For years, most of us have watched sets that are too bright and most important TOO BLUE. Bluer whites look whiter but our eyes are eventually fooled to believe that what we see is pure white. Anything less will look yellow. WARM 2 setting needs getting used to because of that fact and I hated it myself at first. But believe me, stick with it and after a while your eyes will get back to "normal".
Using proper calibration means that anything on screen that seems slightly yellow or slightly blue will be entended to be. Otherwise, all your colors will be skewed. And with brighness/contrast too high, you will see only even white where you should see shades and nuances.

Some people say "who cares, you go with what you like" which is true but at a minimum, you don't what to be unable to see things that ARE there and meant to be seen. Saturation of color is a bit more of a personal choice but who would want WRONG colors as far as tint goes?
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Old 05-07-2011, 12:37 AM
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Originally Posted by toonj64 View Post

I know what you mean but that's the thing with PROPER calibration. Not wanting to get in a debate on this AGAIN but by proper we mean the calibration the filmakers / TV producers, etc, use so that if something is supposed to look slightly red or slightly tinted blue, then that is what you will see, as intended.

In bright daylight, yes this kind of setting will look very murky but in total dark it really is fine.
There are two problems for the common TV buyer. For years, most of us have watched sets that are too bright and most important TOO BLUE. Bluer whites look whiter but our eyes are eventually fooled to believe that what we see is pure white. Anything less will look yellow. WARM 2 setting needs getting used to because of that fact and I hated it myself at first. But believe me, stick with it and after a while your eyes will get back to "normal".
Using proper calibration means that anything on screen that seems slightly yellow or slightly blue will be entended to be. Otherwise, all your colors will be skewed. And with brighness/contrast too high, you will see only even white where you should see shades and nuances.

Some people say "who cares, you go with what you like" which is true but at a minimum, you don't what to be unable to see things that ARE there and meant to be seen. Saturation of color is a bit more of a personal choice but who would want WRONG colors as far as tint goes?

What do you have Color Space set too ? I'd like to try this setting doesn't specify what to set that too though.

@Emaych thx for tips have reduced some of the muffle
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Old 05-07-2011, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by toonj64 View Post

I know what you mean but that's the thing with PROPER calibration. Not wanting to get in a debate on this AGAIN but by proper we mean the calibration the filmakers / TV producers, etc, use so that if something is supposed to look slightly red or slightly tinted blue, then that is what you will see, as intended.

In bright daylight, yes this kind of setting will look very murky but in total dark it really is fine.
There are two problems for the common TV buyer. For years, most of us have watched sets that are too bright and most important TOO BLUE. Bluer whites look whiter but our eyes are eventually fooled to believe that what we see is pure white. Anything less will look yellow. WARM 2 setting needs getting used to because of that fact and I hated it myself at first. But believe me, stick with it and after a while your eyes will get back to "normal".
Using proper calibration means that anything on screen that seems slightly yellow or slightly blue will be entended to be. Otherwise, all your colors will be skewed. And with brighness/contrast too high, you will see only even white where you should see shades and nuances.

Some people say "who cares, you go with what you like" which is true but at a minimum, you don't what to be unable to see things that ARE there and meant to be seen. Saturation of color is a bit more of a personal choice but who would want WRONG colors as far as tint goes?

Well, here's my deal at least: I have to want to watch the TV before any other considerations are entertained. One that looks murky or washed out of color, is not attractive to my eye, so I'm not even interested in looking at it, especially knowing that I could be watching something totally seductive/intriguing.

I don't think I'm convinced that I am missing detail gradations amidst largely white fields, but even so, I think I do not care so much if I can be blown away by what else I'm seeing. As far as color fidelity...yeah, that is way down the scale for me -- I'd have to say that I find myself aware quite a bit probably that colors are very saturated, possibly too orange or bright -- no cause for dismay, I just marvel that it truly is like candy for the eyes. That's what I like.

I go with the cool color palette, the pre-set DYNAMIC modality about the closest thing to what I prefer, with minor changes. Got to say, I am utterly baffled at why anyone is concerned about "proper" coloration or calibration, except as a laughable side-note commentary on what the "experts" think. It almost makes me sad for people who think they need to conform to that standard -- seems they might be getting stuck watching something hideously unattractive ON THEIR OWN SETS! That is just crazy amazing to me, if I thought that was what was going on...but I guess I can choose to believe that maybe there are those for whom that posted setting really is preferable...hard to imagine though. WOW.

On another note, toonj64, I appreciate that you care about animals -- I always like to see that. With just what you said on chocolate to dogs, that is more detail than anyone else has ever expressed to me, and also would explain why those dire warnings never resulted in any harm -- I never gave my pup anything but small amounts of consumer-grade candy. Thanks for being concerned about the well-being of my buddy.
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Old 05-07-2011, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Emaych View Post

Well, here's my deal at least: I have to want to watch the TV before any other considerations are entertained. One that looks murky or washed out of color, is not attractive to my eye, so I'm not even interested in looking at it, especially knowing that I could be watching something totally seductive/intriguing.

I don't think I'm convinced that I am missing detail gradations amidst largely white fields, but even so, I think I do not care so much if I can be blown away by what else I'm seeing. As far as color fidelity...yeah, that is way down the scale for me -- I'd have to say that I find myself aware quite a bit probably that colors are very saturated, possibly too orange or bright -- no cause for dismay, I just marvel that it truly is like candy for the eyes. That's what I like.

I go with the cool color palette, the pre-set DYNAMIC modality about the closest thing to what I prefer, with minor changes. Got to say, I am utterly baffled at why anyone is concerned about "proper" coloration or calibration, except as a laughable side-note commentary on what the "experts" think. It almost makes me sad for people who think they need to conform to that standard -- seems they might be getting stuck watching something hideously unattractive ON THEIR OWN SETS! That is just crazy amazing to me, if I thought that was what was going on...but I guess I can choose to believe that maybe there are those for whom that posted setting really is preferable...hard to imagine though. WOW.

On another note, toonj64, I appreciate that you care about animals -- I always like to see that. With just what you said on chocolate to dogs, that is more detail than anyone else has ever expressed to me, and also would explain why those dire warnings never resulted in any harm -- I never gave my pup anything but small amounts of consumer-grade candy. Thanks for being concerned about the well-being of my buddy.

This isnt a jab at you but if your one nof those people that use Dynamic and love the blue hue you could probly save yourself a buttload of money and buy a cheap TV from Walmart...there really is no reason to buy an expensive TV if your just going to use Vivid mode your basically wasting money.
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Old 05-07-2011, 06:05 PM
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This isnt a jab at you but if your one nof those people that use Dynamic and love the blue hue you could probly save yourself a buttload of money and buy a cheap TV from Walmart...there really is no reason to buy an expensive TV if your just going to use Vivid mode your basically wasting money.

It's a thought. Kindof hit and miss how I ended up on Samsung. Got a Toshiba 55" and was not that satisfied with the image quality up close (I was going to use it as a computer screen). Took it back, the next thing that was presented to me was a Samsung 55" and that suited me. So I got two of them (different years). I just checked at Walmart and found a 55" VIZIO for about a grand, but they had others for what I paid for my Samsungs, and I like the PIP for the computer -- listen to and half-watch TV while I'm web surfing and stuff is loading. So not at all unhappy with the Samsung purchases. I had plenty of money to burn anyway -- got a 58" plasma at the same time. I was inspired however to buy a whole mess of blu-rays -- that is probably getting a little costly at this point, pushing $1000 and more than I thought I intended when I launched on filling some gaps. I could spend about $1000 more, maybe will, and catch up with everything I would consider buying. Love the way TV series' on blu-ray look, so got DEXTER of course (best picture so far), BREAKING BAD, SONS OF ANARCHY, DEADWOOD, ROME. Might want THE WIRE, MAD MEN, a few more. Hey, it's all good fun -- heck, paid $1500 for a clunky CRT 32" decades ago and was happy then, but this late era is TV heaven......
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Old 05-07-2011, 10:31 PM
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I have a samsung un40d6400, and it had some flashlighting in all 4 corners, so i decided to try what others tryed, by lossining the screws, and after a while watching iron man, at the very beginning were there in the cave, , i could no longer see the flashing in the corners, and even on a black screen, it actualy worked for me
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Old 05-08-2011, 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by CHAVES07 View Post

I have a samsung un40d6400, and it had some flashlighting in all 4 corners, so i decided to try what others tryed, by lossining the screws, and after a while watching iron man, at the very beginning were there in the cave, , i could no longer see the flashing in the corners, and even on a black screen, it actualy worked for me

Keep in mind that all this flashlight/clouding business is very much "alive". It changes over time, heating up and cooling and will change over the life of the TV. I have not really heard of instances where it would acutally get worse if keeping the same settings.
It is very possible that the screws have not changed much of anything. Some say it worked, some say it didn't but some did nothing and it did get better.
Settings CAN mitigate but you usually have to sacrifice things (brightness, back light, etc...)
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Old 05-08-2011, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by toonj64 View Post

Keep in mind that all this flashlight/clouding business is very much "alive". It changes over time, heating up and cooling and will change over the life of the TV. I have not really heard of instances where it would acutally get worse if keeping the same settings.
It is very possible that the screws have not changed much of anything. Some say it worked, some say it didn't but some did nothing and it did get better.
Settings CAN mitigate but you usually have to sacrifice things (brightness, back light, etc...)

I would agree from what I've observed. I actually did the loosening screws thing when I first got the D6000. Thought I might have noticed some difference from that, but might have been purely imaginary. Yesterday I was watching a number of blu-rays and was amazed at how dark the screen was with dark material. I would even go so far as to say the localized illumination issues were barely noticeable.

Last thing I was watching was JONAH HEX, which is really dark in alot of spots and it WAS very dark -- almost so much that I thought momentarily a couple of times that there must be something wrong with the set -- no director would intentionally make something so murky (except perhaps with the second AVP movie, which was darkened specifically to mask poor effects, it is speculated). But I ended up concluding that that must have been what they were going for, as other scenes pretty much blazed.

Perhaps not incidentally, I watch in an almost entirely dark room (a single bulb in the corner barely illuminating the edges of objects for safety), AND I was watching at a setting of backlight at 20, so this is saying something.
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Old 05-08-2011, 12:42 PM
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This model has poor pixel response time when it comes to black and greys so when movement happens in those really dark scenes thats why it might seem even darker.
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Old 05-08-2011, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by flyimages View Post

I had a un46c6300, just got it replaced today due to clouding issues, and received un46d6300, I found the isf calibration settings for the tv below. After watching "troy" in blu-ray, im am very satisfied with the results, so far this settings is definitely a keeper, didnt really need to readjust any settings.

http://reviews.lcdtvbuyingguide.com/...-p2.html#page2


Picture Mode: Movie
Backlight 13
Constrast 90
Brightness 49
Sharpness 10
Color 49
Tint G51/R49

PICTURE OPTIONS
Color tone WARM2
Digital Noise Filter OFF
MPEG Noise Filter OFF
HDMI Black Level LOW
Film Mode OFF
Auto Motion Plus OFF
ADVANCED SETTINGS
Black Tone OFF
Dynamic Contrast OFF
Shadow Detail 2
GAMMA 0
Fleshtone 0
Edge Enhancement OFF
Motion Lighting OFF
LED Motion Plus Off

10p White Balance ON

10P WHITE BALANCE SETTINGS

Interval 1 Red: -3 Green: -1 Blue: -3
Interval 2 Red: -4 Green: -1 Blue: 0
Interval 3 Red: -3 Green: 1 Blue: 1
Interval 4 Red: -4 Green: 3 Blue: 4
Interval 5 Red: -6 Green: 4 Blue: 6
Interval 6 Red: -8 Green: 2 Blue: 4
Interval 7 Red: -8 Green: 4 Blue: 6
Interval 8 Red: -9 Green: 2 Blue: 7
Interval 9 Red: -7 Green: 3 Blue: 4
Interval 10 Red: -10 Green: 7 Blue: 10

I ask again if one would like to try these settings what should Color Space be set to?

thx
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Old 05-08-2011, 05:35 PM
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I received my UN55D6400 Friday coming off 3 UN55C6500.So far it is better in every way.It does have just a little flash lighting in all 4 corners don't see any clouding.I don't know if it's the panel itself or the flash lighting but it does lighten up on the sides viewing from maybe 10 to 15 degrees.Overall I am happy with the TV and going to keep it.I ended up getting a hell of a deal after my other problems and just happen to catch the free glasses they had on Amazon from April 14th to the 31st.

The PQ is so good on these sets.It is an April build H301 and even tho the off angle viewing seems about the same as my last two C panels,I am pretty sure its a Samsung because of the rainbows coming off my lights like the first SK03 I got.The C panels hardly showed any rainbows in comparison.
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Old 05-10-2011, 02:03 AM
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Hello,
I recently had my Samsung hl56a650 DLP die on me and samsung made an offer to trade up, (albeit with $900 out of my pocket), to the UN55D6000.
My priority is on gaming. Specifically ps3. Would this be a solid tv that would perform well?
I am reading it is not 3d, but a friend had said that at 120hz it can do 3d. Is this correct?
With my priority in mind, am I better off going with the PN51D6500 plasma option that they gave me?
Thank you so much for any advice you can provide.
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Old 05-10-2011, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by henryhahn View Post

Hello,
I recently had my Samsung hl56a650 DLP die on me and samsung made an offer to trade up, (albeit with $900 out of my pocket), to the UN55D6000.
My priority is on gaming. Specifically ps3. Would this be a solid tv that would perform well?
I am reading it is not 3d, but a friend had said that at 120hz it can do 3d. Is this correct?
With my priority in mind, am I better off going with the PN51D6500 plasma option that they gave me?
Thank you so much for any advice you can provide.

The un55d6000 is NOT 3d. The lowest cost 3d for Samsung in 2011 is the unXXd6400. Refer to the first note in this thread for the chart to see which 2011 models have what.
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Old 05-10-2011, 10:13 AM
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thanks for the speedy reply xlii

I do know that it is not a 3d ready tv, but with certain adapters, some tvs can be made 3d. A friend of mine suggested that at 120hz it should be able to...but, regardless, throwing that question out the window....is this a solid tv for gaming, or am I better off going plasma instead?
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Old 05-10-2011, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by CHAVES07 View Post

I have a samsung un40d6400, and it had some flashlighting in all 4 corners, so i decided to try what others tryed, by lossining the screws, and after a while watching iron man, at the very beginning were there in the cave, , i could no longer see the flashing in the corners, and even on a black screen, it actualy worked for me

I am going to put in some extra washers on my wall mount brackets.The bolts I have in there are right at the bottom out point so the washers will give a little breathing room.

While I have it down I am going to loosen the screws on the back panel to see if it helps anything.

Is it just 4 main screws on the back middle or did you loosen the edge screws also.I didn't even look at it when I put it up.
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Old 05-10-2011, 08:03 PM
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Last Friday I bought the un46d6000, swapped my cable box for an hd box at comcast and changed my plan to get some hd channels. This is our first hdtv as our former TV was a Sony 20 incher made about 17 years ago. I actually surprised my wife as she had no clue what was about to go down.

Wife's first thought was... this thing is hugh! She wanted me to take it back and get a 26" HDTV but after 5 days I think she is warming up to it. She is the TV watcher, I just like to tinker with things.

So far I hooked up a disk drive with some movies on it. Works really well. Very easy to navigate.

Went through the setup and connected to the internet over wifi. Updated the firmware to the latest version again using wifi... very easy and quick.

Used the Smart Hub, downloaded some apps, started the 30 day free trail of Netflix. Works without a hitch. I should add that I bought Samsung's wireless wifi adapter when I bought the TV. I know the price for that thing is a ripoff, but what the heck. It was the last one the store had that was labeled as working for the 2011 models.

Picture quality... I'm no expert but I think the picture looks really really good.
I'm impressed. I haven't made any adjustments to the picture. It is as it came out of the box. I do think the picture quality improved after the set was a day old. Maybe there is a burn-in period. I looked close (because everyone talks about it) for flashlighting in the corners. If it is there it is so negligible as to be invisible unless the room is pitch black and the TV is displaying a black screen.

Sound... I think it sounds very good. Sure they are 10 watt speakers and they won't sound as good as even an inexpensive pair of standalone speakers but on this set they are working just fine (now).

Sound problem... I had a problem... when the set had been on for several hours (Friday) I started to hear a static popping sound coming from the righthand speaker as you face the screen. It would happen only when the cable box connected to hdmi was being used. It didn't happen when I had my ddisk drive hooked up to the usb bus and was playing a movie. I heard it Friday and Saturday, but by Monday it had gone away and hasn't come back since. I did a google search and found a person from one month ago (LG tv) with the same exact problem. He thinks it might be his cable box and not the tv and I tend to agree with him from what I saw here. So right now that is something that is on watch if it comes back. His post is here if you want to read it for future reference...

http://mybroadband.co.za/vb/showthre...MI-from-HD-PVR.

I don't own a blue ray player so that is something I need to eventually get (need to do some research and if you guys have any recs I'll listen). I passed on getting comcasts cable box with DVR (another 10 bucks a month). So any recs on what you use to record shows off of cable would be well received. For the last couple of years I used my eyetv connected to my Apple laptop to record shows. I hook it up right to the wire coming into the house so I can only get the unencrypted channels.


The bottom line is (after 5 days of ownership) is I would buy this TV again and recommend it to a friend. The label on the box said the set was made in Mexico and the panel was HN03.
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Old 05-11-2011, 07:01 AM
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I just picked up a UN40D6000 last night to replace my bedroom tv.

I havent had to much time to play with it yet, but I did manage to toss in a blu-ray and watch some HD cable and they both looked amazing.


My only complaints so far are:

Whose bright idea was it to put all the connector ports on the right side. Every TV I've owned had the ports on the left side. Since I mounted this on the wall, I had to do some crazy cable management behind the TV since the wires come out of the wall on the left.

There seems to be a lot of light leakage on the top right corner, though this doesn't really bother me to much since my old TV had a ton more.

Minor Annoyances on the remote:

No Sleep Timer button on the remote, (have to go into the tool menu).

The d-pad on the remote could be more pronounced compared to the other buttons,
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Old 05-11-2011, 11:02 AM
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I've had the UN40D6300 (best buy) for over two weeks now.

It definately has the flashlighting in all four corners and also clouding.

On a whim, I tried loosening all screws around the sets back perimeter.
To my surprise this made a dramatic improvement with flashlighting and clouding. It's still there (some corners now almost nonexistant), but I'd say it improved by over 75%.

Having seen this myself, it's now evident where Samsung got this wrong:

First of all, they did NOT need to sacrifice PQ for making this display this thin.
They could of made it another 1/2" thick and would of had FAR LESS return hassles, not to mention, still a thin enough set!

Also, based on loosening the screws improvement, this information makes it evident that any slight flaws in the back panel and frame cause uneven twisting on the panel which in affect causes the illumination uniformity issue (flashlighting, clouding).

I imagine when the panels come off the line before they are installed into the set's frame, most have adequate passable illumination uniformity. Unfortunately, the frame causes torsion on the panel causing our flashlighting and clouding issues.

It's also possible that releasing this tension (lossening screws) may not release some or all of this tension on the panel. Inotherwords, the panel could remain slightly distorted from the tension. Or, the panel may not recover from tension and remain distorted. This may explain why some do not see a change when loosing the back perimeter screws. Of course the panel itself may have not been up to par in the first place (worse case senerio)

None of this should have occured if they only had allowed for enough tolerance to accommadate these TIGHT tolerances for this thin panel.
If they had made the panels a bit thicker, this would smoke damn near every set currently made!
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Old 05-11-2011, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fenderman3 View Post

I've had the UN40D6300 (best buy) for over two weeks now.

It definately has the flashlighting in all four corners and also clouding.

On a whim, I tried loosening all screws around the sets back perimeter.
To my surprise this made a dramatic improvement with flashlighting and clouding. It's still there (some corners now almost nonexistant), but I'd say it improved by over 75%.

Having seen this myself, it's now evident where Samsung got this wrong:

First of all, they did NOT need to sacrifice PQ for making this display this thin.
They could of made it another 1/2" thick and would of had FAR LESS return hassles, not to mention, still a thin enough set!

Also, based on loosening the screws improvement, this information makes it evident that any slight flaws in the back panel and frame cause uneven twisting on the panel which in affect causes the illumination uniformity issue (flashlighting, clouding).

I imagine when the panels come off the line before they are installed into the set's frame, most have adequate passable illumination uniformity. Unfortunately, the frame causes torsion on the panel causing our flashlighting and clouding issues.

It's also possible that releasing this tension (lossening screws) may not release some or all of this tension on the panel. Inotherwords, the panel could remain slightly distorted from the tension. Or, the panel may not recover from tension and remain distorted. This may explain why some do not see a change when loosing the back perimeter screws. Of course the panel itself may have not been up to par in the first place (worse case senerio)

None of this should have occured if they only had allowed for enough tolerance to accommadate these TIGHT tolerances for this thin panel.
If they had made the panels a bit thicker, this would smoke damn near every set currently made!


How much did you loosen them and was it only on the edge and nothing else ?

Mine is wall mounted so I only want to do this once ! Thanks
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Old 05-11-2011, 02:43 PM
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Rightwing.
I read here some suggested a 1/4 turn, but I went between 1/4 to a 1/2 turn.
I basically turned each one untill it felt like it relieved tension.

I only loosened the screws on the outer perimeter (top, bottom & sides) of the back panel. It's easy and quick. I did this last night. I did not touch the ones in the center. I believe there were four in the center. My concern was these screws may be holding on a circuit board, but I'm not sure.

I may check the outer screws again tonight. I may relieve even more tension; although, there may be little to no tension left. The thought is that since the tension on the panel is causing the illumination uniformity issue, it may be smart to back out the screws a bit, maybe for a couple weeks or more, and hopefully the panel can recover its original shape. After some time, I would tightened the screws maybe just past "just touch" (enough to grab, but not enough to cause tension and flex the panel)

Has anyone taken the panel off the back?
Is there a PCB attached to it?
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Old 05-11-2011, 04:33 PM
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I am buying a 40" UND6400 and plan to wall mount it. I am trying to find an articulating arm wall mount (doesn't need to swivel more than 20 degrees) that sits as close to the wall as possible when not extended. Does anyone have any recommendations? The closer to the wall the better. Thanks.

-Dave
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Old 05-11-2011, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fenderman3 View Post

Rightwing.
I read here some suggested a 1/4 turn, but I went between 1/4 to a 1/2 turn.
I basically turned each one untill it felt like it relieved tension.

I only loosened the screws on the outer perimeter (top, bottom & sides) of the back panel. It's easy and quick. I did this last night. I did not touch the ones in the center. I believe there were four in the center. My concern was these screws may be holding on a circuit board, but I'm not sure.

I may check the outer screws again tonight. I may relieve even more tension; although, there may be little to no tension left. The thought is that since the tension on the panel is causing the illumination uniformity issue, it may be smart to back out the screws a bit, maybe for a couple weeks or more, and hopefully the panel can recover its original shape. After some time, I would tightened the screws maybe just past "just touch" (enough to grab, but not enough to cause tension and flex the panel)

Has anyone taken the panel off the back?
Is there a PCB attached to it?

Thanks will try tomorrow or next day.Then post results.


Quote:
Originally Posted by dfruch View Post

I am buying a 40" UND6400 and plan to wall mount it. I am trying to find an articulating arm wall mount (doesn't need to swivel more than 20 degrees) that sits as close to the wall as possible when not extended. Does anyone have any recommendations? The closer to the wall the better. Thanks.

-Dave


Look around at Amazon as they have a big selection.I got a Sanus off there that I am real happy with.Peerless has a lot of choice there too.These are know brands.You are gonna be at least 2.5" out from wall with an articulating mount as far as I have seen.Both these brands have a compatibility check on their websites.
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Old 05-11-2011, 11:02 PM
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im using CNET settings on my d6400 , but i would like to try other setting, if anybody has claibrated , could you please post them.
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Old 05-12-2011, 01:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fenderman3 View Post

Rightwing.
I read here some suggested a 1/4 turn, but I went between 1/4 to a 1/2 turn.
I basically turned each one untill it felt like it relieved tension.

I only loosened the screws on the outer perimeter (top, bottom & sides) of the back panel. It's easy and quick. I did this last night. I did not touch the ones in the center. I believe there were four in the center. My concern was these screws may be holding on a circuit board, but I'm not sure.

I may check the outer screws again tonight. I may relieve even more tension; although, there may be little to no tension left. The thought is that since the tension on the panel is causing the illumination uniformity issue, it may be smart to back out the screws a bit, maybe for a couple weeks or more, and hopefully the panel can recover its original shape. After some time, I would tightened the screws maybe just past "just touch" (enough to grab, but not enough to cause tension and flex the panel)

Has anyone taken the panel off the back?
Is there a PCB attached to it?

I am curious about this good question, I went and loosened all of them hopefully that doesn't mess with anything inside. It's just the outer metal isnt it like a cover?
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