Official Samsung UNXXD6000 Owners' Thread - Page 8 - AVS Forum
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post #211 of 3068 Old 04-12-2011, 10:58 AM
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You should post it here.

The flashlighting and clouding looks pretty dim. I would say that is average for Samsung LED. The banding is definitely not acceptable. Those light purple cloud are what we call clouding.
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post #212 of 3068 Old 04-12-2011, 11:15 AM
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Hi all,

I am exciting to find that much discussion. Here is my situation. I bought a samsung un46c6300 for $899 at fry's. I was impressed by it immediately(even it's only 6300 not 8000). I did see un55d8000. It is truly amazing. But I just can't afford it.

Now I found they have sony XBR 46HX909 on sale for $1099. I am going to return my 6300 for it. Do you guys think it is worth the trip? I assume xbrhx929 is at the same level as d8000, then I think xbrhx909 should worth the extra $200 when compared to c6300, right? Just want to be confirmed by you guys.
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post #213 of 3068 Old 04-12-2011, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chadddada View Post

Do you have the model/style number of the glasses? I may go pick up a set for my 6400.

Best Buy:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Samsung+...&skuId=2244466

Price should be $49.99 (at least at the location where I purchased mine -- Emeryville, CA)
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post #214 of 3068 Old 04-12-2011, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by czhouchem View Post

Hi all,

I am exciting to find that much discussion. Here is my situation. I bought a samsung un46c6300 for $899 at fry's. I was impressed by it immediately(even it's only 6300 not 8000). I did see un55d8000. It is truly amazing. But I just can't afford it.

Now I found they have sony XBR 46HX909 on sale for $1099. I am going to return my 6300 for it. Do you guys think it is worth the trip? I assume xbrhx929 is at the same level as d8000, then I think xbrhx909 should worth the extra $200 when compared to c6300, right? Just want to be confirmed by you guys.

where is it at that price $1099 for the SOny
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post #215 of 3068 Old 04-12-2011, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eortizr View Post

Select 'Sources' on your remote, then highlight the source you want to rename, then press the 'Toos' button on your remote, then edit.

Woot! Thanks! I can't wait to get home and try this.
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post #216 of 3068 Old 04-12-2011, 07:12 PM
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just a heads-up, if anyone is on the train to get a Samsung 3d tv (d6400 and up) know this... starting April 24, all samsung 3d sets will include a pair of 3d glasses...

- Panasonic TC-P50ST30
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post #217 of 3068 Old 04-12-2011, 07:29 PM
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WTH, hopefully they will email people that register and allow them to get in on the goods. I doubt it though. Not worth it to me to box it back up and take it back though.
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post #218 of 3068 Old 04-13-2011, 06:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eortizr View Post
just a heads-up, if anyone is on the train to get a Samsung 3d tv (d6400 and up) know this... starting April 24, all samsung 3d sets will include a pair of 3d glasses...
Wow... I just bought my 6400. Is there going to be any voucher from retailers/Samsung? I am 99.9% sure this is a no but thought I would ask for some more information. Do you have a link to this?

EDIT: Just found it.

http://news.cnet.com/8301-17938_105-20051253-1.html 2 pairs included and the 3100s dropping to $49 starting May 1

http://news.cnet.com/8301-31021_3-20052923-260.html 3D not selling as fast so...
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post #219 of 3068 Old 04-13-2011, 07:50 AM
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bump
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post #220 of 3068 Old 04-13-2011, 08:46 AM
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I ordered a UN40D6000 instead of a LN40C630 based on the look and overall ratings I found on Amazon and other sites. I hope that I did not make a mistake, especially after reading on this site. I got the set for 850 which was only 42 more than the LN40C630. Thought it looked great at the stores and love the size, cost and look at the store. I have seen/heard of banding issues, flashlighting and clouding. I should have the set by Friday and will hook it up in my media room to my current Panny Plasma set up. If there are issues I will return to Amazon asap. Man I feel like I am already returning it before I get it! I will post my review once I get the set. If there are issues, what other sets are recommended for a 40 in a brighter room for 850 other than the LN40C630?

Thanks
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post #221 of 3068 Old 04-13-2011, 12:29 PM
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I am very suprised to hear all of the issues you guys are having with this set. I honestly have not had any issue at all. After applying all the settings and viewing in both dark and light environments, I still hold true to the statement that this set is gorgeous. I will post some pics this evening. I am sorry to hear so many of you are having problems. Did anyone get a chance to play around with my suggested settings?
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post #222 of 3068 Old 04-13-2011, 12:30 PM
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Here is a reminder of my current settings:

--Picture menu
Mode: Movie
Backlight: 12
Contrast: 92
Brightness: 45
Sharpness: 0
Color: 48
Tint: G50/R50

Screen adjustment submenu:
Picture Size: Screen Fit
Position: [no change]


Auto Adjustment and Screen submenus: [Grayed out]

Advanced settings submenu
Black tone: Off
Dynamic contrast: Off
Shadow Detail: +2
Gamma: +1
Expert Pattern: Off
RGB Only Mode: Off
Color space: Custom
White Balance: [see below]
10p White Balance: On
Flesh tone: 0
Edge enhancement: Off
Motion Lighting: Off
xvYCC: Off
LED Motion Plus: Off

Color Space submenu:
Red: Red 59, Green 5, Blue 0
Green: Red 20, Green 55, Blue 3
Blue: Red 0, Green 5, Blue 100
Yellow: Red 57, Green 50, Blue 0
Cyan: Red 14, Green 51, Blue 55
Magenta: Red 50, Green 5, Blue 59

White balance submenu:
R-Offset: 24
G-Offset: 25
B-Offset: 26
R-Gain: 31
G-Gain: 25
B-Gain: 25

10p White Balance submenu:
Interval 1: Red 5, Green 4, Blue 4
Interval 2: Red 0, Green 0, Blue 0
Interval 3: Red 1, Green 1, Blue 2
Interval 4: Red 0, Green 0, Blue 0
Interval 5: Red 2, Green 2, Blue 1
Interval 6: Red 0, Green 1, Blue 0
Interval 7: Red 1, Green 1, Blue 1
Interval 8: Red 2, Green 2, Blue 3
Interval 9: Red 0, Green 0, Blue 1
Interval 10: Red 0, Green 0, Blue 3

Picture options submenu
Color tone: Warm1
Digital Noise Filter: Off
MPEG Noise Filter: Off
HDMI black level: Normal
Film mode: Off [grayed out]
Auto motion plus: Custom
-- Custom settings:
Blur reduction: 10
Judder reduction: 0


*EDIT Picture mode and color tone are both now set to standard. I believe that also greyed out the 10p white balance option. I will have to double check to make sure.
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post #223 of 3068 Old 04-13-2011, 01:22 PM
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Anyone care to share their panel types for the 2011 models?

My 46D6900 appears to have CMO panel (CN01). Bummer...
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post #224 of 3068 Old 04-13-2011, 04:30 PM
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I finally got the BROWSER to work on my D6300. But it still says "Network not connected". I can go to any internet site!! But the applications won't work What is the problem here?

Flashlighting & Blooming & purple blacks:

I read last year in CNET forums (or may be here) that SAMSUNG has two panels manufactured in two places. They have the last letter difference in the SERIAL #s. May be check the box to see if you have the problem and are exchanging!!

The picture is awesome on my 55D6300 & either I am blind to these things (Which is a blessing!) or truly I got lucky!
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post #225 of 3068 Old 04-13-2011, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JPCarl View Post

Here is a reminder of my current settings:

--Picture menu
Mode: Movie
Backlight: 12
Contrast: 92
Brightness: 45
Sharpness: 0
Color: 48
Tint: G50/R50

Screen adjustment submenu:
Picture Size: Screen Fit
Position: [no change]


Auto Adjustment and Screen submenus: [Grayed out]

Advanced settings submenu
Black tone: Off
Dynamic contrast: Off
Shadow Detail: +2
Gamma: +1
Expert Pattern: Off
RGB Only Mode: Off
Color space: Custom
White Balance: [see below]
10p White Balance: On
Flesh tone: 0
Edge enhancement: Off
Motion Lighting: Off
xvYCC: Off
LED Motion Plus: Off

Color Space submenu:
Red: Red 59, Green 5, Blue 0
Green: Red 20, Green 55, Blue 3
Blue: Red 0, Green 5, Blue 100
Yellow: Red 57, Green 50, Blue 0
Cyan: Red 14, Green 51, Blue 55
Magenta: Red 50, Green 5, Blue 59

White balance submenu:
R-Offset: 24
G-Offset: 25
B-Offset: 26
R-Gain: 31
G-Gain: 25
B-Gain: 25

10p White Balance submenu:
Interval 1: Red 5, Green 4, Blue 4
Interval 2: Red 0, Green 0, Blue 0
Interval 3: Red 1, Green 1, Blue 2
Interval 4: Red 0, Green 0, Blue 0
Interval 5: Red 2, Green 2, Blue 1
Interval 6: Red 0, Green 1, Blue 0
Interval 7: Red 1, Green 1, Blue 1
Interval 8: Red 2, Green 2, Blue 3
Interval 9: Red 0, Green 0, Blue 1
Interval 10: Red 0, Green 0, Blue 3

Picture options submenu
Color tone: Warm1
Digital Noise Filter: Off
MPEG Noise Filter: Off
HDMI black level: Normal
Film mode: Off [grayed out]
Auto motion plus: Custom
-- Custom settings:
Blur reduction: 10
Judder reduction: 0


*EDIT Picture mode and color tone are both now set to standard. I believe that also greyed out the 10p white balance option. I will have to double check to make sure.

Having a hard time getting your settings .I must be doing something wrong .

Family room 40C6300
The Bunker 55D6000
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post #226 of 3068 Old 04-13-2011, 08:55 PM
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I have been researching and trying a bunch of different settings from here and other resources and this is what I've come up with as the best picture for my D6000

Picture Mode: MOVIE
Backlight: 15
Contrast: 100
Brightness: 48
Sharpness: 36
Color: 50
Tint: 50/50

Screen Adjustment Sub Menu
Picture size: Screen Fit
Position [grayed out]
PC Screen Adjustment [grayed out]

Auto Adjustment [grayed out]

Advanced Setting Sub Menu
Black Tone: Darkest
Dynamic Contrast: OFF
Shadow Detail: 0
Gamma: 1
Expert Pattern: OFF
RGB Only Mode: OFF
Color Space: CUSTOM (see below)
White Balance (see below)
10p White Balance: ON (see below)
Flesh Tone: 0
Edge Enhancement: OFF
Motion Lighting: OFF
xvYCC: OFF
LED Motion Plus: OFF

Picture Options Menu:
Color Tone: Standard
Digital Noise Filter: OFF
MPEG Noise Filter: OFF
HDMI Black Level [grayed out]
Film Mode [grayed out]
Auto Motion Plus: OFF

Color Space Submenu:
Red: Red 59, Green 5, Blue 0
Green: Red 20, Green 55, Blue 3
Blue: Red 0, Green 5, Blue 100
Yellow: Red 57, Green 50, Blue 0
Cyan: Red 14, Green 51, Blue 55
Magenta: Red 50, Green 5, Blue 59

White balance submenu:
R-Offset: 24
G-Offset: 25
B-Offset: 26
R-Gain: 31
G-Gain: 25
B-Gain: 25

10p White Balance submenu:
Interval 1: Red 5, Green 4, Blue 4
Interval 2: Red 0, Green 0, Blue 0
Interval 3: Red 1, Green 1, Blue 2
Interval 4: Red 0, Green 0, Blue 0
Interval 5: Red 2, Green 2, Blue 1
Interval 6: Red 0, Green 1, Blue 0
Interval 7: Red 1, Green 1, Blue 1
Interval 8: Red 2, Green 2, Blue 3
Interval 9: Red 0, Green 0, Blue 1
Interval 10: Red 0, Green 0, Blue 3

That's what I'm using and it looks AWESOME!
Any comments or recommendations to improve are welcome!
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post #227 of 3068 Old 04-13-2011, 10:32 PM
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Digiburd

I have a C6300 and my observations surely apply to the D series as well:
Your backlight is very high meaning most people will get flashlights and clouds.
You did mitigate this by using black tone at "darkest" which makes your blacks look great yes, but you get black crush for sure. Losing detail in dark spots, you just get pure black.
Your maxed out contrast surely makes your whites shift in color a bit, usually turns slightly blue. You pretty much always need to turn contrast down a few notches or white is off.
I'm curious at what reference you used for white balance. For the offset and gain, I guess you can sort of eyeball it but the 10p is way too subtle and precise even to think eyeballing it. So I'm always like "wha?" when I see 10p whitout instruments.

Not being a jerk, just giving you the info I know on calibrating the Samsung LED/LCDs.
God it took me forever to figure out mine. And i still have no proper white balance since I don't have instruments.
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post #228 of 3068 Old 04-13-2011, 10:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toonj64 View Post

I have a C6300 and my observations surely apply to the D series as well:
Your backlight is very high meaning most people will get flashlights and clouds.
You did mitigate this by using black tone at "darkest" which makes your blacks look great yes, but you get black crush for sure. Losing detail in dark spots, you just get pure black.
Your maxed out contrast surely makes your whites shift in color a bit, usually turns slightly blue. You pretty much always need to turn contrast down a few notches or white is off.
I'm curious at what reference you used for white balance. For the offset and gain, I guess you can sort of eyeball it but the 10p is way too subtle and precise even to think eyeballing it. So I'm always like "wha?" when I see 10p whitout instruments.

Not being a jerk, just giving you the info I know on calibrating the Samsung LED/LCDs.
God it took me forever to figure out mine. And i still have no proper white balance since I don't have instruments.

Can you share your C6300 settings?
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post #229 of 3068 Old 04-14-2011, 02:05 AM
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JB

I could try off the top of my head but I would get some stuff wrong for sure. Im in Afghanistan right now so no access to my TV. I ended up messing around a lot with brightness (45 is too low for mine) and gamma because I was getting awful color smearing (mostly red). All of the C series had this issue to some extent and some were horrible. So I found out that very precise adjustment of white balance (without regard to actually getting white right) would eliminate color smearing.
Then you readjust your colors in the custom color space.

But as a starting point, contrast probably between 90-95, backlight no higher than 10 (8 probably best) and bright at 45 IF it gives you no other issues, otherwise you need to go higher but 50 should look awful. Gamma should be tweeked to keep your blacks good while not loosing detail or having black crush. Colors can be adjusted quite well with a calibration disk and filters (DVE for me). Dynamic contrast is a question of taste but don't use the highest setting. Low or med would be best. Black tone, I ended up using the lowest setting because I lost those awesome blacks while tweeking to get rid of the color smearing. The lowest black tone setting gives better blacks without crush or barely any. If you can, don't use black tone.
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post #230 of 3068 Old 04-14-2011, 03:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kinetic758 View Post

Anyone care to share their panel types for the 2011 models?

My 46D6900 appears to have CMO panel (CN01). Bummer...

I'd be happy to share, or even just find out for myself out of general curiosity, but ever since folks have been mentioning panel types, I am unable to find any reference to that either on the serial number sticker box, in the menu, or anywhere else. Where is anyone finding this information please?
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post #231 of 3068 Old 04-14-2011, 05:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by julienbossard View Post

Hello,
I have just bought the brande new LCD UE40D6500 (France) and messed up with the hdmi calibration while trying to find a way to activate the IR module for the 3D glasses (2011 model only work with serie 3 bluetooth glasses).

I have found out that all the calibration pattern are already in the service menu. You just need to go to SVC/Test Pattern / HDI W/B Pattern : ON / HDMI Pattern set : 7. For my TV, the square in the upper left corner needed to be white.

Also found the menu to activate the IR module to use my SSG 2100 glasses :
SVC / IR_ON_OFF : ON.


If it can help.
Bye.

How did you got into the service menu?

- Panasonic TC-P50ST30
- Yamaha RX-V667
- Polk RM75
- Polk PSW10
- ARRX18G Remote w/ RF extender
- WDTV Live+ (5TB and growing)
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post #232 of 3068 Old 04-14-2011, 08:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JPCarl View Post

I am very suprised to hear all of the issues you guys are having with this set. I honestly have not had any issue at all. After applying all the settings and viewing in both dark and light environments, I still hold true to the statement that this set is gorgeous. I will post some pics this evening. I am sorry to hear so many of you are having problems. Did anyone get a chance to play around with my suggested settings?

I will love to see a picture of your tv with a letterbox widescreen movie in a completely darkroom.

- Panasonic TC-P50ST30
- Yamaha RX-V667
- Polk RM75
- Polk PSW10
- ARRX18G Remote w/ RF extender
- WDTV Live+ (5TB and growing)
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post #233 of 3068 Old 04-14-2011, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emaych View Post

I'd be happy to share, or even just find out for myself out of general curiosity, but ever since folks have been mentioning panel types, I am unable to find any reference to that either on the serial number sticker box, in the menu, or anywhere else. Where is anyone finding this information please?

Take a look at the back of your set. Where the model number is displayed, you should also see a version number. In my case, I have version CN01. Yours could begin with an "H", "A", "S" and so on. As far as I know, the model I have (46D6900W - Best Buy exclusive) seems to come only with CMO panels.
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post #234 of 3068 Old 04-14-2011, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toonj64 View Post

JB

I could try off the top of my head but I would get some stuff wrong for sure. Im in Afghanistan right now so no access to my TV. I ended up messing around a lot with brightness (45 is too low for mine) and gamma because I was getting awful color smearing (mostly red). All of the C series had this issue to some extent and some were horrible. So I found out that very precise adjustment of white balance (without regard to actually getting white right) would eliminate color smearing.
Then you readjust your colors in the custom color space.

But as a starting point, contrast probably between 90-95, backlight no higher than 10 (8 probably best) and bright at 45 IF it gives you no other issues, otherwise you need to go higher but 50 should look awful. Gamma should be tweeked to keep your blacks good while not loosing detail or having black crush. Colors can be adjusted quite well with a calibration disk and filters (DVE for me). Dynamic contrast is a question of taste but don't use the highest setting. Low or med would be best. Black tone, I ended up using the lowest setting because I lost those awesome blacks while tweeking to get rid of the color smearing. The lowest black tone setting gives better blacks without crush or barely any. If you can, don't use black tone.

Thanks toon I am going to adjust in and around these values hopefully some of my flashlighting decreases

Quote:
Originally Posted by eortizr View Post

I will love to see a picture of your tv with a letterbox widescreen movie in a completely darkroom.

I would like to see this as well, can you or somebody post one (want to compare to mine and see if mines that bad)? also curious what panel you have saw mention of H301 panel in this thread maybe these are better in regards to flashlighting

Quote:
Originally Posted by kinetic758 View Post

Take a look at the back of your set. Where the model number is displayed, you should also see a version number. In my case, I have version CN01. Yours could begin with an "H", "A", "S" and so on. As far as I know, the model I have (46D6900W - Best Buy exclusive) seems to come only with CMO panels.

I've got a H302 made in Mexico. I've got flashlighting but it's only visible in widescreen or letterbox and a pitch black dark room in the bottom L and R corners, it's small about half an inch would you guys say that's about normal? Do any of yours exhibit this? If I have my IKEA ambient lighting on it's not as noticeable. I am undecided if I should try my luck at another set or not as everything else I love on the TV. Hooked it up to my PC as well and the thing looks beautiful.
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post #235 of 3068 Old 04-14-2011, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by jbdawson View Post

Thanks toon I am going to adjust in and around these values hopefully some of my flashlighting decreases


I would like to see this as well, can you post one? also curious what panel you have saw mention of H301 panel in this thread maybe these aren't as bad in regards to flashlighting


I've got a H302 made in Mexico and am experiencing some issues, I've got flashlighting but it's only visible in widescreen or letterbox and a pitch black dark room in the bottom L and R corners it's small about half an inch, would you guys say that's about normal? Do any if yours exhibit this? If I have my IKEA ambient lighting on it's not as noticeable. I am still undecided if I should try my luck at another set or not as everything else I love on the TV. Hooked it up to my PC as well and the thing looks beautiful.

I believe your H panel is a Samsung. Regarding your flashlighting, in my experience with 3 2011 sets (2 46D6420's and 1 46D6900) and by looking at the photos in another post you made, I would say your flashlighting is "normal". However, were you able to resolve the banding and purple circles?
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post #236 of 3068 Old 04-14-2011, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kinetic758 View Post

I believe your H panel is a Samsung. Regarding your flashlighting, in my experience with 3 2011 sets (2 46D6420's and 1 46D6900) and by looking at the photos in another post you made, I would say your flashlighting is "normal". However, were you able to resolve the banding and purple circles?

Well that's good to hear in regards to the flashlighting, as far as the panel is that good or bad? Now on the purple clouds can't really notice them anymore only if I stand at an extremely off angle where you cant watch tv from anyway, so basically under normal viewing conditions cant see them so it doesn't really bother me.

Now as far as the banding that is the issue that scared me BUT after reading over some of the D7000/8000 threads we know how expensive these are there were a couple users who experienced the banding as well but just like myself ( mine being in the NBA 2k11 splash screens), they only saw it under one circumstance being some menu in Rock Band. So im wondering if it's just specific to a certain video game as that's the only time I see it. I've looked for it all over the place and there is no banding AT ALL that I could see it's just on that video game in the 2 splash screens. Perhaps it is some type of malfunction related to the video game is what I'm thinking.
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post #237 of 3068 Old 04-14-2011, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbdawson View Post

Well that's good to hear in regards to the flashlighting, as far as the panel is that good or bad? Now on the purple clouds can't really notice them anymore only if I stand at an extremely off angle where you cant watch tv from anyway, so basically under normal viewing conditions cant see them so it doesn't really bother me.

Now as far as the banding that is the issue that scared me BUT after reading over some of the D7000/8000 threads we know how expensive these are there were a couple users who experienced the banding as well but just like myself ( mine being in the NBA 2k11 splash screens), they only saw it under one circumstance being some menu in Rock Band. So im wondering if it's just specific to a certain video game as that's the only time I see it. I've looked for it all over the place and there is no banding AT ALL that I could see it's just on that video game in the 2 splash screens. Perhaps it is some type of malfunction related to the video game is what I'm thinking.

Generally, the Samsung panels are supposed to be better than the other sourced panels, so you did good! The main difference with the Samsung panels is that they're supposed to have better off-angle viewing. Try this: sit dead center. Then move to the left or right a few feet. Do you notice a drop in contrast and do you see the blacks turning a slight blue? The PVA panel used by Samsung is supposed to reduce this effect. My MVA panel (produced by CMO, i.e. non-Samsung) exhibits this pretty easily.

Also good to hear that you sorted out the banding/halos.
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post #238 of 3068 Old 04-14-2011, 12:59 PM
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I am currently at work and will take a picture of my set tonight. I only have a Droid X to take pictures with because my son broke my actual camera. It will take a few shots but I am sure I can adjust the exposure settings and flash in order to get a good pic.
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post #239 of 3068 Old 04-14-2011, 02:56 PM
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Here is on pic from an angle. I am using my droid x with the exposure setting set to -1. The only light in the house is a light in the back of the living room about 12 feet away. It is on an HD channel from Time Warner Cable. A trailer for thor is playing and there are black bars on the top, bottom, left, and right.

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post #240 of 3068 Old 04-14-2011, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toonj64 View Post

Digiburd

I have a C6300 and my observations surely apply to the D series as well:
Your backlight is very high meaning most people will get flashlights and clouds.
You did mitigate this by using black tone at "darkest" which makes your blacks look great yes, but you get black crush for sure. Losing detail in dark spots, you just get pure black.
Your maxed out contrast surely makes your whites shift in color a bit, usually turns slightly blue. You pretty much always need to turn contrast down a few notches or white is off.
I'm curious at what reference you used for white balance. For the offset and gain, I guess you can sort of eyeball it but the 10p is way too subtle and precise even to think eyeballing it. So I'm always like "wha?" when I see 10p whitout instruments.

Not being a jerk, just giving you the info I know on calibrating the Samsung LED/LCDs.
God it took me forever to figure out mine. And i still have no proper white balance since I don't have instruments.

don't think you're being a jerk at all.. wish more people would comment about their settings...i'll give your suggestions a try.

I did get the 10p settings from another post.. then just messed around with it till i thought it looked right. i think it looks great.. hell even the factory settings look great.. just trying to optimize it.

can you please post your settings?
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