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post #271 of 2833 Old 06-28-2011, 05:57 PM
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Phase, otto, djams . . .

Thanks much for taking the time to respond to my dilemma.

The grayscale must be way off. Example: The color actually shifts from one side of someones face to the other based on how it’s lit. It should only get darker or lighter depending on how the light fades from one side to the other. Not change tint or color temp. Besides flesh tones, the colors that should always look correct are golds(which I think is actually the hardest to get right), browns, yellows, and no over saturated reds. If one can get these right, then everything else usually falls into place.

You guys have given me hope here.

Phase, I'm going to start working on this tonite.

I'm off work starting Thursday so I have 5 days off to dig in and I'll actually have the whole house to myself for couple of days so I’ll really be able to grind away at this completely undisturbed.

Thanks again all.
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post #272 of 2833 Old 06-28-2011, 06:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by extrabyte000 View Post

Phase, otto, djams . . .

Thanks much for taking the time to respond to my dilemma.

The grayscale must be way off. Example: The color actually shifts from one side of someones face to the other based on how it's lit. It should only get darker or lighter depending on how the light fades from one side to the other. Not change tint or color temp. Besides flesh tones, the colors that should always look correct are golds(which I think is actually the hardest to get right), browns, yellows, and no over saturated reds. If one can get these right, then everything else usually falls into place.

You guys have given me hope here.

Phase, I'm going to start working on this tonite.

I'm off work starting Thursday so I have 5 days off to dig in and I'll actually have the whole house to myself for couple of days so I'll really be able to grind away at this completely undisturbed.

Thanks again all.

Cool. Phase and djams will be your best source. I can throw in some nuggets but......
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post #273 of 2833 Old 06-28-2011, 06:41 PM
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New here to this avsforum business.

Would like to add to the statistics for this thread - just purchased the LG 47K450

Box had the code 47LK450-UB.ACCYLUR

Took a macro pic and looks like its an S-IPS!

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post #274 of 2833 Old 06-28-2011, 06:47 PM
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That pic is mighty nice! So, just enjoy your tv for a few days or so and when you're ready to calibrate, post. FWIW, let your tv "warm up" for about 10 or 15 minutes before you start to play with settings.
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post #275 of 2833 Old 06-28-2011, 06:58 PM
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I knew I forgot something.

On my blueray player,

do I set -

1.) Deep Color = 10bit, 12bit, auto or off.

2.) ycbcr-4:2:2 or ycbcr-4:4:4 or RGB or Auto.


Thanks.
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post #276 of 2833 Old 06-28-2011, 07:59 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by extrabyte000 View Post

I knew I forgot something.

On my blueray player,

do I set -

1.) Deep Color = 10bit, 12bit, auto or off.

2.) ycbcr-4:2:2 or ycbcr-4:4:4 or RGB or Auto.


Thanks.

You can probably set Deep Color to "Auto" since then it should select the actual bit bandwidth based on whatever source disc you have in the player. Or you can set it to Off since there is virtually little or no source material that uses Deep Color.

Set ycbcr to either 4:2:2 or Auto, since you have a 120HZ LK520. Only the LK450 models might be able to do 4:4:4 (properly) even though you can select it in the BD player.

And have fun, take your time, and remember to do a picture Reset in the ISF Expert menu to start from scratch.
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post #277 of 2833 Old 06-29-2011, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by novacoke View Post

New here to this avsforum business.

Would like to add to the statistics for this thread - just purchased the LG 47K450

Box had the code 47LK450-UB.ACCYLUR

Took a macro pic and looks like its an S-IPS!

Welcome - congrats on the new tv and thanks for contributing the info.
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post #278 of 2833 Old 06-29-2011, 07:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post


Cool. Phase and djams will be your best source. I can throw in some nuggets but......

Golden nuggets
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post #279 of 2833 Old 06-29-2011, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djams View Post

Golden nuggets

The student has yet to become the teacher....
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post #280 of 2833 Old 06-29-2011, 09:46 AM
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can you guys help me out? is a 42lk520 worth $50 more than an aquos 42d69u? (2.4ms vs 6.5 and 120 vs 60 hz)
mostly gaming/sports/blu ray

i have no idea if theres any real difference
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post #281 of 2833 Old 06-29-2011, 10:13 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 850csi View Post

can you guys help me out? is a 42lk520 worth $50 more than an aquos 42d69u? (2.4ms vs 6.5 and 120 vs 60 hz)
mostly gaming/sports/blu ray

i have no idea if theres any real difference

A closer comparison might be the LG 42LK450 to the 42D69U. Both are 60 HZ TVs and might be a bit better in input lag time for gaming.

In regards to the $50 more, most of us would say yes it is worth it for the picture adjust menus and controls, number of inputs, and potential for an S-IPS LCD panel. Look for a "Y" in the forth lettered position of the Product Code, which is right after the Model number on a label on the outside of the box.

This is just off the cuff, and I am sure there are several veteran forum members who can point out other pluses for the LG.
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post #282 of 2833 Old 06-29-2011, 10:32 AM
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i appreciate the advice... are there any real advantages in favor of the sharp? im going to be keeping this tv for a long time (i hope). would you guys generally say 120hz and the faster response time is worth a $50 premium? that seems to be the conventional wisdom but im wonderkng what it is on here

i just got the sharp. i liked its blu ray performance but the remote sucks and i felt tjat the espn ticker for example was too jittery. is the 42lkxxx a better tv either way? im assuming lg panel quality and brand rep is right there with sharp?

im gonna see if the lk is an s-ips by the code and go from there but i dont think anyone has gotten a 42" VA model in here...
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post #283 of 2833 Old 06-29-2011, 04:35 PM
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i appreciate the response again, but i ultimately went plasma. figured my concerns with motion performance would be best dealt with that way. thanks again!
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post #284 of 2833 Old 06-30-2011, 09:52 PM
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So this set is the 2011 model of the LD450? Went to go get a LD450 today and they only have 3 sets of 42" and a bunch of 37" & 42" LK450. Should I opt for the LK450?

I am going to be using it as a monitor, and reading on here people said the LD450 was a good monitor, how about the LK450?
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post #285 of 2833 Old 07-01-2011, 02:30 AM
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47lk520 here. Using the RGB/PC input, my screenis placed normally at 1024x768. I use that for browsing, but change it to 1920x1080p for HD video. The 1920x1080p setting shifts the image to the right. There's a ~1.5" black bar on the left side which is shifting the image. Solution?
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post #286 of 2833 Old 07-01-2011, 07:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HTtom View Post

47lk520 here. Using the RGB/PC input, my screenis placed normally at 1024x768. I use that for browsing, but change it to 1920x1080p for HD video. The 1920x1080p setting shifts the image to the right. There's a ~1.5" black bar on the left side which is shifting the image. Solution?

I just use the HDMI3 input when we connect our MBP via HDMI and the image is just fine.
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post #287 of 2833 Old 07-01-2011, 08:30 AM
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I'm about to bite the bullet and buy a 47LK520. I've read through this entire thread and there is a wealth of knowledge here! I read somewhere on this forum that LG is a good choice if your a gamer and was wanting to know how the lag was for this set. Does anyone have the complete US product with the "Y"?

Update: Called BestBuy. Product Code: 47LK520-UA.AUSYLJR

I'm picking it up this afternoon! Wish me luck!
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post #288 of 2833 Old 07-01-2011, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madamd View Post

I'm about to bite the bullet and buy a 47LK520. I've read through this entire thread and there is a wealth of knowledge here! I read somewhere on this forum that LG is a good choice if your a gamer and was wanting to know how the lag was for this set. Does anyone have the complete US product with the "Y"?

Update: Called BestBuy. Product Code: 47LK520-UA.AUSYLJR

I'm picking it up this afternoon! Wish me luck!

The Force is with you I have last year's 47LD520 and love it. The "Y" in the fourth position of the product code is a good indicator for the S-IPS panel. Just to be sure tho I'd do the loupe test looking for the chevron-shaped pixels (<<<<).

You'll find a lot of information as well in the xxLD550, xxLD520, XXLD650 thread. Let us know how it goes.
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post #289 of 2833 Old 07-01-2011, 12:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post

The Force is with you I have last year's 47LD520 and love it. The "Y" in the fourth position of the product code is a good indicator for the S-IPS panel. Just to be sure tho I'd do the loupe test looking for the chevron-shaped pixels (<<<<).

You'll find a lot of information as well in the xxLD550, xxLD520, XXLD650 thread. Let us know how it goes.

Noob question: What is so great about the S-IPS panel?
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post #290 of 2833 Old 07-01-2011, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post

I just use the HDMI3 input when we connect our MBP via HDMI and the image is just fine.

I asked about the RGB/PC input.
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post #291 of 2833 Old 07-01-2011, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madamd View Post

Noob question: What is so great about the S-IPS panel?

Gamers like it for the low lag times, and the off-axis viewing is pretty good compared to other IPS panel types.
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post #292 of 2833 Old 07-01-2011, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post

Gamers like it for the low lag times, and the off-axis viewing is pretty good compared to other IPS panel types.

Slight clarification: IPS panels have better response time than VA panels. VA panels have the slowest pixel response time of the three main LCD techs which means more blur/ghosting.
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post #293 of 2833 Old 07-01-2011, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Antipodes View Post

Slight clarification: IPS panels have better response time than VA panels. VA panels have the slowest pixel response time of the three main LCD techs which means more blur/ghosting.

My bad Thanks
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post #294 of 2833 Old 07-01-2011, 08:02 PM
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First, many thanks again to otto, phase and djams.

At this point, I have got this tweaked in at about 80 to 85%.

The flesh tones are actually fairly consistent now from scene to scene and even source to source.

Browns are brown without leaning toward any shade of purple, green or red.

Golds are good.

The red push is reduced.

The biggest issue at this point is green foliage. When there is a shot of trees, grass, etc. in the shot,
they all tend to have the same green color. There is very little variation in shades and tones of green.
So I need to figure out why that’s happening and what adjustments to use.

Here are the settings thus far:

all auto-stuff = off
contrast: +92
BT709
black level = low

red contrast: -6
green contrast: -6
blue contrast: -1

red brightness: -7
green brightness: -2
blue brightness: -2

red tint: -9
yellow color: -12
magenta color: -11

Everything else is at default.
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post #295 of 2833 Old 07-01-2011, 08:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by extrabyte000 View Post
First, many thanks again to otto, phase and djams.

At this point, I have got this tweaked in at about 80 to 85%.

The flesh tones are actually fairly consistent now from scene to scene and even source to source.

Browns are brown without leaning toward any shade of purple, green or red.

Golds are good.

The red push is reduced.

The biggest issue at this point is green foliage. When there is a shot of trees, grass, etc. in the shot,
they all tend to have the same green color. There is very little variation in shades and tones of green.
So I need to figure out why that’s happening and what adjustments to use.

Here are the settings thus far:

all auto-stuff = off
contrast: +92
BT709
black level = low

red contrast: -6
green contrast: -6
blue contrast: -1

red brightness: -7
green brightness: -2
blue brightness: -2

red tint: -9
yellow color: -12
magenta color: -11

Everything else is at default.
I also noticed the golden or tanned skin tones my LG

try using a picture mode other than expert (standard for example) and a skin tone option will appear in advanced options (at least its there for previous year models, my 42ld450)

bring down skin tone -5 and turn on dynamic color to high, try turning white balance to medium instead of warm
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post #296 of 2833 Old 07-01-2011, 08:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by extrabyte000 View Post
First, many thanks again to otto, phase and djams.

At this point, I have got this tweaked in at about 80 to 85%.

The flesh tones are actually fairly consistent now from scene to scene and even source to source.

Browns are brown without leaning toward any shade of purple, green or red.

Golds are good.

The red push is reduced.

The biggest issue at this point is green foliage. When there is a shot of trees, grass, etc. in the shot,
they all tend to have the same green color. There is very little variation in shades and tones of green.
So I need to figure out why that's happening and what adjustments to use.

Here are the settings thus far:

all auto-stuff = off
contrast: +92
BT709
black level = low

red contrast: -6
green contrast: -6
blue contrast: -1

red brightness: -7
green brightness: -2
blue brightness: -2

red tint: -9
yellow color: -12
magenta color: -11

Everything else is at default.
Are you doing a 10-point or 2-point IRE cal? It's been awhile since I did mine but I don't remember setting any individual color contrasts.

What I have under Expert2 is:

Aspect ratio is Just Scan

Backlight 48
Contrast 93
Brightness 53
H and V Sharpness 50
Color 50
Tint 0

All enhancements are Off and then there's the CMS settings and the 10-point IREs using the BT709 color gamut.
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post #297 of 2833 Old 07-01-2011, 10:21 PM
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YAY!!! Went to my local Best Buy after work and they had two 37" left. I was disappointed at first because the first one was the dreaded "D" serial panel, but luck was on my side and the one behind it was Y serial panel!!!! Will post tomorrow, but so far its nice! Just have to find my DVI > HDMI adapter because I'm using the RGB/PC input
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post #298 of 2833 Old 07-01-2011, 11:49 PM
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post #299 of 2833 Old 07-01-2011, 11:57 PM
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Ok, so I'm thinking about buying the 55LK520 at Wally World tom., for under $1100 it seems like a deal.
I've been reading about the S-IPS panels and they seem to be the one to get. What am I looking for on the box to identify that panel type, just a Y in the number? That's the only way to identify the S-IPS panel as far as the box goes? I know a loupe test when I get it home but I'm just curious as to what all I need to look at before taking it home.

Has Chad tested this particular model yet? Any results posted on the forum?

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
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post #300 of 2833 Old 07-02-2011, 08:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zuk109 View Post

Ok, so I'm thinking about buying the 55LK520 at Wally World tom., for under $1100 it seems like a deal.
I've been reading about the S-IPS panels and they seem to be the one to get. What am I looking for on the box to identify that panel type, just a Y in the number? That's the only way to identify the S-IPS panel as far as the box goes? I know a loupe test when I get it home but I'm just curious as to what all I need to look at before taking it home.

Has Chad tested this particular model yet? Any results posted on the forum?

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

Yes, the Y in the 4th position is it.

ChadB gave last years 55LD520 a "quick look" review, and the LD series appears in his "totally subjective rankings" chart. See hdtvbychadb.com - the LK seems to be very similar to last years sets.
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Lg 47lk520 47 Inch 1080p 120 Hz Lcd Hdtv , Lg 55lk520 55 Inch 1080p 120 Hz Lcd Hdtv , Lg 42lk520 42 Inch 1080p 120 Hz Lcd Hdtv , Lg 42lk450 42 Inch 1080p 60 Hz Lcd Hdtv , Lg 32lk450 32 Inch 1080p 60 Hz Lcd Va Panel Hdtv , Lg 37lk450 37 Inch 1080p 60 Hz Lcd Hdtv
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