Official LG xxLK520 xxLK450 - Page 16 - AVS Forum
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post #451 of 2833 Old 07-24-2011, 07:41 PM
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Nope.
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post #452 of 2833 Old 07-28-2011, 12:18 AM
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I've had the 42lk520 set for about 20 days now. I got it from Amazon. I've notice an issue which i don't know if its a problem or normal; this is my first HDTV, so i don't know.

When i turned the cable box on, the LED display on the cable box goes from 480i to 1080i, you can see the switching. If the tv is on first and you turn on the cable box, you get a picture for split second during 480i, then black screen for split second, to picture again during 1080i. My issue is when i turn both on at the same time (via harmony 300i universal controller) or one after another really fast. I get a picture on the tv, then black screen then picture, then black screen, etc. This happens on a loop. Sometimes i get a "no signal" message. I have to turn tv off and back on to get a constant picture.

Another related issue. I have an Western Digital live TV plus. Whenever i pause a video during playback and i switch the input, from hdmi2 to hdmi1, if i try to switch back after a few minutes, i get a "no signal" message. The WD live tv is on and working fine. I have to turn either the tv or the WD live tv off and on for the picture to come on.

Both inputs are connected via hdmi.
Since this is my first HDTV set and i'm within 30 days, i want to make sure it doesn't poop out on me in a few months or right after 1 year.
So is this normal with HDTVs connected via hdmi?
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post #453 of 2833 Old 07-28-2011, 01:55 AM
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How is input lag for gaming on the 32LK450? Specifically for models that are confirmed S-IPS panels?

I really want to get one, but anything over an average of 1 frame on game mode HDMI, will bother me.

S e a N N yT
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post #454 of 2833 Old 07-28-2011, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flashbounce View Post
When i turned the cable box on, the LED display on the cable box goes from 480i to 1080i, you can see the switching. If the tv is on first and you turn on the cable box, you get a picture for split second during 480i, then black screen for split second, to picture again during 1080i. My issue is when i turn both on at the same time (via harmony 300i universal controller) or one after another really fast. I get a picture on the tv, then black screen then picture, then black screen, etc. This happens on a loop. Sometimes i get a "no signal" message. I have to turn tv off and back on to get a constant picture.
Well ... turn on your components one at a time. It does take a few seconds for the HDMI connection to negotiate.

Quote:
Another related issue. I have an Western Digital live TV plus. Whenever i pause a video during playback and i switch the input, from hdmi2 to hdmi1, if i try to switch back after a few minutes, i get a "no signal" message. The WD live tv is on and working fine. I have to turn either the tv or the WD live tv off and on for the picture to come on.
Haven't seen anything like this, but then again, I run everything through the AVR which is always outputting something on the video channels.
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post #455 of 2833 Old 07-28-2011, 02:55 PM
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Excuse me guys, I just have a few questions now that it's been 8-9 days since I had the 47LK520.

I noticed some kind of visual phenomenon, not sure what it's called. I notice some kind of "smearing" or "smudging" mostly on SDTV channels (480p?) and worst on those SDTV channels.

Is it called ghosting? Is this normal for these kinds of TVs? Am I over reacting?

Also, when watching BlueRay with the PS3, I also notice this "smearing"/"smudging" effect especially on fast/very fast scenes!

Sometimes there would also be "doubling" (artifacting? IDK what it's called). I'll try my best to describe: It usually happens with small fast moving objects.

Example, a guy running quickly with his ipod touch held up front; the ipod touch would "double" for a split second.

A small guy in the screen with a parachute in a fast moving scene.. would "double" in a fast moving scene.

I am a little annoyed also for the lack of description in the OSD and manual for settings like True Cinema, etc.

What does True Cinema setting really do anyway?

Sorry guys for too much questions but thanks in advance for any help.
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post #456 of 2833 Old 07-28-2011, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flashbounce View Post

When i turned the cable box on, the LED display on the cable box goes from 480i to 1080i, you can see the switching. If the tv is on first and you turn on the cable box, you get a picture for split second during 480i, then black screen for split second, to picture again during 1080i. My issue is when i turn both on at the same time (via harmony 300i universal controller) or one after another really fast. I get a picture on the tv, then black screen then picture, then black screen, etc. This happens on a loop. Sometimes i get a "no signal" message. I have to turn tv off and back on to get a constant picture.

You might want to adjust the delay time on your Harmony. I had the Harmony 880 with an issue where sometimes either the tv would turn on and them immediately turn off, or when it would turn on, the tv would default to a non-existent SD channel. If the delay time is too fast, the Harmony resends the command which can confuse the device because it's in the process of responding to the first command signal.
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post #457 of 2833 Old 07-28-2011, 10:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tubers View Post

What does True Cinema setting really do anyway?.

Per the user manual:

On 60Hz models (LK450) "Real Cinema" invokes 2:2 pulldown (48Hz refresh) for 1080/24p sources(BD). It has no effect for SD (DVD).

On 120Hz models (LK5x0) "Real Cinema" invokes 5:5 pulldown for 1080/24p sources. Frame interpolation (aka the Soap Oprah effect) is handled by another setting.
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post #458 of 2833 Old 07-29-2011, 07:16 PM
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Hi folks,

I am planning on purchasing a 55lk520 from BB this week and I have spent the past couple of days reading thru this thread. Now I am wondering if I should worry about getting the S-IPS panel or not.

Should I ask the salesperson to check to see if any of the ones in stock have a Y in the model number? Would LG put a lesser panel in a 55 inch tv or are they mostly in the smaller models?

I am certainly not a videophile, and not 100% sure I would notice a difference in panels but I would like to minimize motion blur and provide the best off angle viewing as possible.

Thanks for you help.
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post #459 of 2833 Old 07-30-2011, 03:02 AM
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I went to BB earlier today and the 47LK520 I saw had terrible black levels and backlight bleeding. The 42" was better, but for both sizes, the Samsung D550 and D630 next to them looked a million times better. PQ was sharper, black levels better, everything. I'm not sure if it was just picture settings since they didn't have remotes. Has anyone compared these two?
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post #460 of 2833 Old 07-30-2011, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by versabox View Post

I went to BB earlier today and the 47LK520 I saw had terrible black levels and backlight bleeding. The 42" was better, but for both sizes, the Samsung D550 and D630 next to them looked a million times better. PQ was sharper, black levels better, everything. I'm not sure if it was just picture settings since they didn't have remotes. Has anyone compared these two?

+1

Samsung always looks better in the stores I've been to as well.
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post #461 of 2833 Old 07-30-2011, 09:16 AM
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It's been said a billion times. You can't trust what you see in stores.

That having been said, I finally got around to doing my first 10pt calibration pass on the LK450. With Backlight = 30, Gamma = 2.2, Brightness = 55, Contrast = 90, I ended up with a measured "black" level of 0.136Nits, Average gamma 2.24, Measured Contrast Ratio 804:1. White level was ~110Nits (31ish ft/L.)

There's more work to be done, but it's a significant improvement over the OOB setup.

PS:

1) BT709 Color *decoding* is spot on, I haven't checked the physical gamut yet. I'm inclined to leave well enough alone here.
2) Greyscale (other than 0 IRE) has deltaE < 1.9 for all points (and < 0.8 for most.)
3) Yes ... it's an S-IPS panel.
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post #462 of 2833 Old 07-30-2011, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDTVChallenged View Post

It's been said a billion times. You can't trust what you see in stores.

That having been said, I finally got around to doing my first 10pt calibration pass on the LK450. With Backlight = 30, Gamma = 2.2, Brightness = 55, Contrast = 90, I ended up with a measured "black" level of 0.136Nits, Average gamma 2.24, Measured Contrast Ratio 804:1. White level was ~110Nits (31ish ft/L.)

There's more work to be done, but it's a significant improvement over the OOB setup.

PS:

1) BT709 Color *decoding* is spot on, I haven't checked the physical gamut yet. I'm inclined to leave well enough alone here.
2) Greyscale (other than 0 IRE) has deltaE < 1.9 for all points (and < 0.8 for most.)
3) Yes ... it's an S-IPS panel.

Keep on calibratin'. Sounds like you're headed in the right direction. My 47LD520 is fully calibrated and looks just fantastic, at least to us, and that's all that really matters
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post #463 of 2833 Old 07-30-2011, 12:20 PM
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I've been on the look out for an IPS 32lk450 for awhile now. Took a trip to best buy and video only today in oregon. Best buy had 6, all the 'D' VA panels. Video only had 4 'D's and nothing else. Funny thing was the product into video only had on display said the TV was IPS. I informed them that all the models they had were not IPS and they did not seemed concerned. Anyone else have luck recently finding any Y models?
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post #464 of 2833 Old 07-31-2011, 12:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDTVChallenged View Post

Per the user manual:

On 60Hz models (LK450) "Real Cinema" invokes 2:2 pulldown (48Hz refresh) for 1080/24p sources(BD). It has no effect for SD (DVD).

On 120Hz models (LK5x0) "Real Cinema" invokes 5:5 pulldown for 1080/24p sources. Frame interpolation (aka the Soap Oprah effect) is handled by another setting.

Thanks.. "ghosting" o "smearing" was significantly alleviated when i turned off True Motion and just left the Real Cinema (my bad on the True Cinema)

Ty
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post #465 of 2833 Old 07-31-2011, 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Zuk109 View Post

+1

Samsung always looks better in the stores I've been to as well.

Well, I went to Fry's and checked out the Samsung D550 and LK520. They have remotes so I put the all the picture settings halfway. Unlike Best Buy, the screens looked pretty comparable, so I ended up ordering the LK520 on Amazon since it's the same price and has 120Hz for sports.
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post #466 of 2833 Old 07-31-2011, 07:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by versabox View Post

Well, I went to Fry's and checked out the Samsung D550 and LK520. They have remotes so I put the all the picture settings halfway. Unlike Best Buy, the screens looked pretty comparable, so I ended up ordering the LK520 on Amazon since it's the same price and has 120Hz for sports.

So you compared a 60hz to a 120hz? Last I checked (Friday) BB had the D630 for the same price as the LK520, at least in the 46/47.
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post #467 of 2833 Old 07-31-2011, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by wizang View Post

I've been on the look out for an IPS 32lk450 for awhile now. Took a trip to best buy and video only today in oregon. Best buy had 6, all the 'D' VA panels. Video only had 4 'D's and nothing else. Funny thing was the product into video only had on display said the TV was IPS. I informed them that all the models they had were not IPS and they did not seemed concerned. Anyone else have luck recently finding any Y models?

Yesterday I went to BB to look at the 32LK450. I checked one box, it was a "D", and so was the display model according to the sticker on the back. There were several other boxes sitting under the display but I didn't have the heart to go through them.

ernie
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post #468 of 2833 Old 07-31-2011, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post
Keep on calibratin'. Sounds like you're headed in the right direction.
Humm ... CMS seems to be fairly useless except perhaps to dial in Y (color/intensity) a bit closer (at the expense of deltaE). What is the definition of insanity again? Oh well, at least the results are repeatable.
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post #469 of 2833 Old 08-01-2011, 01:14 AM
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Hi there.

I am in bit of a dilemma. I had my sight firmly on the LG, but looking at some identical video clips off USB, on both the sets, I see that there is more motion visible ghosting on the LG one, and more subdued ghosting on the Sammy. Are we all sure that the panel on the 32 LK LCD tv is the same quality PVA as on Sammy? I do not see that much liquid smearing when I rub my finger on the LG screen. For sure its not IPS.

I do observe that Sammy has better (read powerful) audio quality. Though I am wary of the quality of the set overall compared to LG.

Any help really appreciated.

Cheers,
Rishi.
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post #470 of 2833 Old 08-01-2011, 01:43 AM
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Hey guys, I got my 47 inch LK450 about a week ago. I love the tv except for the black levels. Does anyone have some good settings that would improve the blacks?
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post #471 of 2833 Old 08-03-2011, 08:18 AM
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Panasonic's great if you're buying plasma tv's. But when it comes to LCD's, LG, Samsung and Sony seem to be the best from all the reviews I've read AND the showroom tv's I've seen compare to the Panasonic's.

Samsung's aren't that great. Ask a sales clerk if they are having problems with Samsung's, and if they're honest, they say "Yes". Better yet, ask a Geek Squad (or equivalent).

I like the Panasonics, even the "300 lines" models, but passed on it ONLY because the sleep timer is buried under several menu levels - and it was going in the bedroom. Other than that, side-by-side, they seemed to have the best black levels.

There weren't that many companies manufacturing LCD screens just a couple of years back- although that may have changed rapidly. Think of it like you microwave oven where there are essentially 2 manufacturers of the micorwave gun: Panasonic and LG.
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post #472 of 2833 Old 08-03-2011, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDTVChallenged View Post

Humm ... CMS seems to be fairly useless except perhaps to dial in Y (color/intensity) a bit closer (at the expense of deltaE). What is the definition of insanity again? Oh well, at least the results are repeatable.

That put a smile on my face Insanity fer sure

I'm sure that if I graphed out my calibration it wouldn't be perfect but for my eyes, I think my CMS came out rather nicely and the corresponding IREs just add to it. I think ultimately, for the most part, it comes down to what you like, and what fits well in your viewing environment, even if the coordinates are "off".
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post #473 of 2833 Old 08-03-2011, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post

I'm sure that if I graphed out my calibration it wouldn't be perfect but for my eyes, I think my CMS came out rather nicely and the corresponding IREs just add to it. I think ultimately, for the most part, it comes down to what you like, and what fits well in your viewing environment, even if the coordinates are "off".

I may try flogging the CMS some more - lather, rinse, repeat I could get the delta luma's down to < +/- 2%, but that made some of the deltaE's soar into the 11 to 18 range and the pic wound up with a bit of an icky greenish cast.

Then, for grins, I tried setting the CMS with the flashy color decoder pattern from the AVS disk (and also with the DVE 709 pattern) and the set's built in "color filter." I wound up with something completely different from the measured colorimeter setup.

In the end, I just went with the zeroed out settings, which at least puts all of the measured deltaEs in the < 6 range. Wack-a-Mole.
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post #474 of 2833 Old 08-03-2011, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by lp4nd4l View Post

Hey guys, I got my 47 inch LK450 about a week ago. I love the tv except for the black levels. Does anyone have some good settings that would improve the blacks?

Hmm, I just received my 42LK450 yesterday and the black level looks fine to me. Black looks like deep, rich black, as it should be, not the least bit grey.
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post #475 of 2833 Old 08-03-2011, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by techybrainz View Post

Hi there.

I am in bit of a dilemma. I had my sight firmly on the LG, but looking at some identical video clips off USB, on both the sets, I see that there is more motion visible ghosting on the LG one, and more subdued ghosting on the Sammy. Are we all sure that the panel on the 32 LK LCD tv is the same quality PVA as on Sammy? I do not see that much liquid smearing when I rub my finger on the LG screen. For sure its not IPS.

I do observe that Sammy has better (read powerful) audio quality. Though I am wary of the quality of the set overall compared to LG.

Any help really appreciated.

Cheers,
Rishi.

I was torn between an LG 42LK450 and a similarly priced Samsung. To my eyes the Samsung's colors looked more striking but a little too much so. Skin color looked a bit strange as well - too orange on caucasian faces and too brown on black faces. As far as the sound is concerned, Samsung was good but LG was better and, more importantly for me, the LG had better volume at the same level.
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post #476 of 2833 Old 08-03-2011, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDTVChallenged View Post

I may try flogging the CMS some more - lather, rinse, repeat I could get the delta luma's down to < +/- 2%, but that made some of the deltaE's soar into the 11 to 18 range and the pic wound up with a bit of an icky greenish cast.

Then, for grins, I tried setting the CMS with the flashy color decoder pattern from the AVS disk (and also with the DVE 709 pattern) and the set's built in "color filter." I wound up with something completely different from the measured colorimeter setup.

In the end, I just went with the zeroed out settings, which at least puts all of the measured deltaEs in the < 6 range. Wack-a-Mole.

Wack-a-Mole....you funny guy

I had pretty good luck setting my CMS with the AVS HD709 disk. It did take about 3 or 4 passes before it looked good. However, I had to print out a color representation of the B1 (?) pattern and label the cyan, magenta, etc color bars. Then, when I used one of the built-in filters, I would pause the flashing, look at my "color guide", and make adjustments to the proper bars. I did primaries first, secondaries second, and the went back and checked the primaries again. Again, it took about 3 or so passes to get it right. Of course this was all done after brightness, contrast, etc were set and checked.
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post #477 of 2833 Old 08-03-2011, 01:56 PM
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One thing which hasn't been discussed yet is how these sets handle 1080i content (or SD for that matter). I'm considering the 42LK450 and wonder if we can count on it doing 3-2 inverse on film source and at least a basic motion adaptive on video source.

Has anyone piped Spears & Munsil through one?
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post #478 of 2833 Old 08-04-2011, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post
Wack-a-Mole....you funny guy

I had pretty good luck setting my CMS with the AVS HD709 disk. It did take about 3 or 4 passes before it looked good. However, I had to print out a color representation of the B1 (?) pattern and label the cyan, magenta, etc color bars. Then, when I used one of the built-in filters, I would pause the flashing, look at my "color guide", and make adjustments to the proper bars. I did primaries first, secondaries second, and the went back and checked the primaries again. Again, it took about 3 or so passes to get it right. Of course this was all done after brightness, contrast, etc were set and checked.
Yeah that's one thing I tried. That should work to set the color decoding (Y) properly, however, with the primary chromaticities (x,y) being where they are, I'm not sure that this approach will actually guarantee accurate colors.

Perhaps when I get the chance, I give that another try and then see what the meter thinks of the results. Last time, I didn't check the results with the meter, too much ambient light (noon'ish) in the room.
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post #479 of 2833 Old 08-04-2011, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by HDTVChallenged View Post

Yeah that's one thing I tried. That should work to set the color decoding (Y) properly, however, with the primary chromaticities (x,y) being where they are, I'm not sure that this approach will actually guarantee accurate colors.

Perhaps when I get the chance, I give that another try and then see what the meter thinks of the results. Last time, I didn't check the results with the meter, too much ambient light (noon'ish) in the room.

What I did, and this is probably not "scientific", is after I was satisfied where the cal was at, I checked it out with a couple of movies. Phase had suggested the BD version of Seabiscuit because of the way it was filmed (lots of detail in areas of color and darkness, color contrasts, details in the sky, etc). He actually wrote up a very nice "what to look for and why" scene by scene so you could check how your overall calibration went. The other movie I used was Dark Knight because, well, it's dark with lots of detail. OTA is fine even considering the day to day, station to station, broadcast quality.
Movies streamed via Netflix on the ATV2 look fine as well, again taking the source in consideration. However, I did cheat a bit. Another member who has the 47LD520 as well calibrated his set with a light meter and computer software and then posted his findings. The basics were almost identical to mine so I used his IRE's and then went back and adjusted the CMS if they needed it (I don't remember), checked what I could with the AVS HD709 disk and then watched both movies twice, once in the daytime and once in the evening. The evening viewing looked better with the bias light than daytime but I expected that. Seabiscuit looked great either way but the Dark Knight seem to have less detail during the daytime with no adjustments made for ambient light. That was over 3 months ago and I haven't had to make any changes since for BD, OTA, or ATV2.
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post #480 of 2833 Old 08-05-2011, 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by techybrainz View Post

Hi there.

I am in bit of a dilemma. I had my sight firmly on the LG, but looking at some identical video clips off USB, on both the sets, I see that there is more motion visible ghosting on the LG one, and more subdued ghosting on the Sammy. Are we all sure that the panel on the 32 LK LCD tv is the same quality PVA as on Sammy? I do not see that much liquid smearing when I rub my finger on the LG screen. For sure its not IPS.

I do observe that Sammy has better (read powerful) audio quality. Though I am wary of the quality of the set overall compared to LG.

Any help really appreciated.

Cheers,
Rishi.

I'm not sure what to say about either. In my personal expereince, the Samsungs are good as rocks - but that's Samsung's mid-range LED sets, not the CCFL-LCD 550's. I have a 32LK450 at the moment, and am happy with the picture, but am having audio synch problems.

Samsung is being sued for substituting low-grade capacitors that affect lifespan. LG substitutes lower-grade VA panels ofr the IPS we all hope we'll get.

It's like which devil do you want to dance with.

My LG has a VA panel in it, and I can see a bright image at extreme viewing angles - something I could never do with the Samsungs (and again, the LED-LCD's are the only Samsung's I've owned).

I wouldn't guess you could notice a whicker's width of difference between teh two screens. You might know they are technically different, but the proof is in what looks good to your eyes.
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