Originally Posted by kanedo
Wow, your profile looked great. I didn't know you can adjust each IRE level individually. I'll definitely give that a shot tonight.
By the way, is your i1 Display 2 consistent? My spyder2 is showing its age and I can't get it to produce a consistent reading every single time. Perhaps that could explain why my curves aren't as close as yours.
Also, could you briefly describe your calibration process? I'm really new at this and could use some pointers as to the tools and strategies for this.
I am pretty satisfied with the repeatability of my i1Display2 meter. But this is the only meter I've ever had, so I've got nothing to compare it against. To me it performs as I would expect a low cost (relatively speaking) meter to perform.
My calibration process - I should start by saying that I'm very new to calibration as well, but here is a basic overview of how I go about it:
1) Picture reset on the preset you will be calibrating (very important).
2) Turn off all automatic picture enhancers (including motion enhancement)
3) Turn off overscan (or enable 1:1 pixel mapping)
4) Set brightness, contrast, main color/tint and sharpness using AVS-HD709 basic patterns. Our LG's have the built-in blue filter to use for setting the main color and tint controls
Be sure you have the patterns manual for the AVS disc - it does a great job explaining how to use the patterns.
5) Set peak light output. Display a 100% white field pattern from the AVS disc. Adjust backlight until you attain the desired level. The 125cd/m2 value you used is a very reasonable peak light output for a normal viewing environment. My night calibration is at 35ftL (~117cd/m2) and day calibration is 70 ftL (for a very bright room)
6) Calibrate white balance using the 10pt IRE adjustments, and the field grayscale patterns from the AVS disc. I would mention that while the "Calibration for Dummies" guide recommends no adjustment to green, I do not think this applies for our sets. On my set, the only way to attain the correct Y value is to adjust green. So I use the "adjust green as a last resort" approach.
7) Calibrate colors using CMS adjustments using 100% color field patterns from the AVS disc. If you have trouble with the primaries, post back and I can point you to a method to accomplish this using 75% saturations fields instead of 100% color.
8) Reality check the settings using reference material. I can highly recommend Phase700B's "Seabiscuit reference material guide" as one good source for this. You can find it in the XXLD520,XXLD550 owner's thread.