AVS Forum banner
422K views 3K replies 293 participants last post by  crookyleeds 
#1 ·
I wanted to start a new thread for the 2011 LG LK Series. I almost bought a 42LK520 today but I am concerned since it is so new and there is zero information/reviews out.


I'm also interested to see if there will be a panel lottery for these sets too.
 
#27 ·
Hey Otto - this is the calibration software file. To open it you need to install the (free) Colorimeter HCFR software. This software creates the charts and graphs I've posted in the "home thread".


Edit - I've suspected that a bias light would reduce eye strain in a darker environment, unfortunately this doesn't work in my entertainment center.
 
#28 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by djams /forum/post/20426982


Hey Otto - this is the calibration software file. To open it you need to install the (free) Colorimeter HCFR software. This software creates the charts and graphs I've posted in the "home thread".


Edit - I've suspected that a bias light would reduce eye strain in a darker environment, unfortunately this doesn't work in my entertainment center.

Gotcha. Did you ever post your evening cal in the home group? I am quite pleased with the calibration because it's nice to have just one that seems to work well for all of the inputs and lighting conditions. Yes, the ambient light works wonders. Too bad you can't incorporate that into your entertainment center
I still have plans for the "horsey test" and will post when I do.
 
#29 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Pylot /forum/post/20426088


Interesting. It appears that LG has changed their product coding for the S-IPS panels because I noticed that there isn't a "W" in your product code. I'm assuming you verified the panel type with a magnifying lens. I'm surprised that your Contrast is so low but it appears that you calibrated with a different set of protocols that I used so that probably accounts for the differences. It's amazing how little the CMS changes right out of the box. It just shows how good these sets are. Good job.

Otto, this is indeed an IPS panel. On the back of the TV, you can see through the cracks and see LC-420WUE labeled on the panel.


Apparently, LG has changed their product coding for the LK series.
 
#30 ·
@djams,


Wow, your profile looked great. I didn't know you can adjust each IRE level individually. I'll definitely give that a shot tonight.


By the way, is your i1 Display 2 consistent? My spyder2 is showing its age and I can't get it to produce a consistent reading every single time. Perhaps that could explain why my curves aren't as close as yours.


Also, could you briefly describe your calibration process? I'm really new at this and could use some pointers as to the tools and strategies for this.


Thanks.
 
#32 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by kanedo /forum/post/20427599


Otto, this is indeed an IPS panel. On the back of the TV, you can see through the cracks and see LC-420WUE labeled on the panel.


Apparently, LG has changed their product coding for the LK series.

That's great! I'm old school though so I'd still check out the pixel pattern. With all of the returns last year for the non-S-IPS panels that LG had, it's always best to be 100% sure. It's cheap and easy.


As far as calibrations go, I've found that you can get a really nice picture if you just do the basics and the CMS. However, if you can calibrate the IRE's

(100 - 0) it just gives the CMS a more balanced look. And on my 520, I've also found that using the HDMI input calibration translates well to the OTA-Cable input. That's important for me because I don't have cable or satellite and depend on OTA for my regular viewing (fortunately we get a ton of HD stations where I live). Oh, and let your tv warm up for about 10 minutes or so before calibrating. It sounds odd but a lot of us noticed that there seems to be a warm up period before you get optimal performance.


Happy calibrating and keep us informed on your progress
 
#34 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Pylot /forum/post/20427782


That's great! I'm old school though so I'd still check out the pixel pattern. With all of the returns last year for the non-S-IPS panels that LG had, it's always best to be 100% sure. It's cheap and easy.


As far as calibrations go, I've found that you can get a really nice picture if you just do the basics and the CMS. However, if you can calibrate the IRE's

(100 - 0) it just gives the CMS a more balanced look. And on my 520, I've also found that using the HDMI input calibration translates well to the OTA-Cable input. That's important for me because I don't have cable or satellite and depend on OTA for my regular viewing (fortunately we get a ton of HD stations where I live). Oh, and let your tv warm up for about 10 minutes or so before calibrating. It sounds odd but a lot of us noticed that there seems to be a warm up period before you get optimal performance.


Happy calibrating and keep us informed on your progress

@Otto


How's the input lag on your 520 for both 60Hz and 120Hz?
 
#35 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by kanedo
@Otto


How's the input lag on your 520 for both 60Hz and 120Hz?
I don't game on my 520 sorry
My son just hooks up his MacBookPro with a mini-HDMI cable and plays his games that way using the HDMI3 input and a modified Cinema User setting. No TruMotion. Looks fantastic to me and he hasn't complained at all about lag times. Text is clear as well.
 
#36 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by kanedo
@djams


Could you shed some light on the input lag on your 120Hz 47LD520? Particularly, I'm interested in the input lag on both 60Hz and 120Hz. I was hoping that the input lag on the 120Hz mode is low enough for gaming.
Otto asked that I pop in here and comment about your question. Actually, the 120HZ LG LCD panels are always running at 120HZ. Only the 450 and 350 series runs at 60HZ. Also, LCD panel latency is different than input lag such as you may be interested in for gaming. In the XXLD520 and XXLD550 series the INPUT lag was measured by some owners to be between the upper 40ms range to upper 60ms range. I guess someone with an XXLK450 or XXLK520 will need to run an inout lag test to see how they stack up.
 
#37 ·
This thread got a lot better fast with all this new info



I haven't seen any "W" panels of the xxLK450 and it's been either "D" or "Y". Sadly, every 32 inch I've seen locally have the "D" product code, and so did my Amazon attempt. Plenty of "Y" panels for the 37 inch but that's too big for my desk



My input lag test for the 32LK450 "D" panel was 17-33 ms. My testing method isn't the most accurate (cheap digital camera shots of the TV in clone mode with a Samsung PX2370), but it was good enough for me.
 
#38 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Antipodes /forum/post/20429294


This thread got a lot better fast with all this new info



I haven't seen any "W" panels of the xxLK450 and it's been either "D" or "Y". Sadly, every 32 inch I've seen locally have the "D" product code, and so did my Amazon attempt. Plenty of "Y" panels for the 37 inch but that's too big for my desk



My input lag test for the 32LK450 "D" panel was 17-33 ms. My testing method isn't the most accurate (cheap digital camera shots of the TV in clone mode with a Samsung PX2370), but it was good enough for me.

There is a wealth of information from the thread that Phase700B started on the LD series and we are more than happy to share it. It seems that the LK and LD are very similar so hopefully we'll be of some help.
 
#40 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by kanedo /forum/post/20427647


@djams,


Wow, your profile looked great. I didn't know you can adjust each IRE level individually. I'll definitely give that a shot tonight.


By the way, is your i1 Display 2 consistent? My spyder2 is showing its age and I can't get it to produce a consistent reading every single time. Perhaps that could explain why my curves aren't as close as yours.


Also, could you briefly describe your calibration process? I'm really new at this and could use some pointers as to the tools and strategies for this.


Thanks.

I am pretty satisfied with the repeatability of my i1Display2 meter. But this is the only meter I've ever had, so I've got nothing to compare it against. To me it performs as I would expect a low cost (relatively speaking) meter to perform.


My calibration process - I should start by saying that I'm very new to calibration as well, but here is a basic overview of how I go about it:


1) Picture reset on the preset you will be calibrating (very important).

2) Turn off all automatic picture enhancers (including motion enhancement)

3) Turn off overscan (or enable 1:1 pixel mapping)

4) Set brightness, contrast, main color/tint and sharpness using AVS-HD709 basic patterns. Our LG's have the built-in blue filter to use for setting the main color and tint controls
Be sure you have the patterns manual for the AVS disc - it does a great job explaining how to use the patterns.

5) Set peak light output. Display a 100% white field pattern from the AVS disc. Adjust backlight until you attain the desired level. The 125cd/m2 value you used is a very reasonable peak light output for a normal viewing environment. My night calibration is at 35ftL (~117cd/m2) and day calibration is 70 ftL (for a very bright room)

6) Calibrate white balance using the 10pt IRE adjustments, and the field grayscale patterns from the AVS disc. I would mention that while the "Calibration for Dummies" guide recommends no adjustment to green, I do not think this applies for our sets. On my set, the only way to attain the correct Y value is to adjust green. So I use the "adjust green as a last resort" approach.

7) Calibrate colors using CMS adjustments using 100% color field patterns from the AVS disc. If you have trouble with the primaries, post back and I can point you to a method to accomplish this using 75% saturations fields instead of 100% color.

8) Reality check the settings using reference material. I can highly recommend Phase700B's "Seabiscuit reference material guide" as one good source for this. You can find it in the XXLD520,XXLD550 owner's thread.
 
#41 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by snypa2k8 /forum/post/20430176


djams, can you post your settings?

Sure - they are already posted



These are for a 47LD520 (last year's model).


Night: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post20194593


Day: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post20347001


In the linked thread, you will also find settings from Phase700B in post #1. He has developed separate settings for OTA and HDMI and has settings for a modified Cinema Preset mode as well (for those that prefer less complication).


It will be interesting to find out if these settings work well on the LK series.
 
#43 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by snypa2k8 /forum/post/20430234


Thanks for the settings, about to punch them in.


Has anyone found a definitive sharpness setting for this set when being used as a pc monitor? I have tried alot of combinations but cant seem to get it to look "right"

How are you connecting your pc to the LG? My son was doing his physics homework the other day from his MBP via mini-HDMI to HDMI3 input using a modified Cinema User settings, and when I walked by it seemed ok to me but then I didn't really sit down and carefully check it out.
 
#44 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by snypa2k8 /forum/post/0


Thanks for the settings, about to punch them in.


Has anyone found a definitive sharpness setting for this set when being used as a pc monitor? I have tried alot of combinations but cant seem to get it to look "right"

You're welcome. Please post back on how they work out on the LK series.


Regarding sharpness - do you have the input you are using labeled as PC? This makes all the difference in the world when connecting a laptop.
 
#45 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by djams /forum/post/20432643


You're welcome. Please post back on how they work out on the LK series.


Regarding sharpness - do you have the input you are using labeled as PC? This makes all the difference in the world when connecting a laptop.

Oops, thanks djams. I forgot to mention the labeling
 
#47 ·
I've tried having it set as PC, but you loose the ability to set some of the Advanced features, actually you cant really set any of them under advanced settings.


My 42LK450 is my main monitor for my desktop PC. It's being connected via HDMI with a HDMI-DVI adapter. I mean, don't get me wrong, text is highly readable and doesnt look like crap, but I just cant seem to get the sharpness perfect, it either looks slightly too soft or slightly too "halo-y, glowy".


Right now I have hdmi label blank and my 38 h sharpness / 53 vertical sharpness
 
#48 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by emmat2011 /forum/post/20433801


Hello I just purchased the 47lk530 and I have a y on the serial code...so does that mean I have an ips panel?

It's not yet confirmed that LG has continued it's product code labeling in respect to the S-IPS panels. If LG follows the 2010 product coding, then no, you don't have an S-IPS panel because there isn't a "W" in the product code. It could be an e-IPS or an H-IPS. However, until more people start doing the "loupe" test (magnifying lens) and look for the chevron-shaped pixel pattern (
 
#49 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by snypa2k8 /forum/post/20434033


I've tried having it set as PC, but you loose the ability to set some of the Advanced features, actually you cant really set any of them under advanced settings.


My 42LK450 is my main monitor for my desktop PC. It's being connected via HDMI with a HDMI-DVI adapter. I mean, don't get me wrong, text is highly readable and doesnt look like crap, but I just cant seem to get the sharpness perfect, it either looks slightly too soft or slightly too "halo-y, glowy".


Right now I have hdmi label blank and my 38 h sharpness / 53 vertical sharpness

We don't use our 520 that much as a monitor. Mostly for playing computer games (we don't have a PS3 or Xbox). I'll check our settings and let you know what we use. Maybe that will help.
 
#50 ·
Actually I had the 47lk520 with a w in the bar code, but I got rid of it to get the lk530 now my question is does anybody know why isn't this model on the LG website which I got to chat to one of the representatives and he ask me from where did I get this tv? I got this tv from a local furniture store ..he said that model its not yet available in the us market! Then how did I get this model then? Which it is kind of weird that only Amazon has the lk530 for sale! As I understand the lk530 is better than the lk520 because it has the smart tv feature. I also found this model on the abt website and its listed as discontinued! That's weird since this model has only been available for 2 months according to another thread. If anybody knows anything about the lk530 please respond, thanks in advance.
 
Top