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post #1531 of 2833 Old 01-15-2012, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshZH View Post

Btw, our eyes(or brain?) are very inaccurate when it comes to white, it seems. I'm using "Color Temp. - W40" and at first there was a slight yellow tint, but after a few days it became blindingly white without any tints I even thought i accidentally changed settings.

yes, colorimeters and spectrophotometers exist for a valid reason, not just for making profits

even though the factory calibration of these sets is pretty crude, very high end color analyzers are used to calibrate white balance within the service menu

thinking you can set the color of white by eye is wishful thinking at best; many would consider a professionally calibrated set too dull and yellow until their eyes adapted to the calibrated image


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post #1532 of 2833 Old 01-15-2012, 03:04 PM
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Does anyone have a LK450 hooked up through the miniDP port of an AMD HD 6000/7000 series video card? If so, are you experiencing any flickering/blinking issues when running an intensive 3d app? (e.g., 3dmark, furmark, direct3d games, opengl games, etc).

For me, right after I start a 3d application, the television goes black for 1-2 seconds, then an image pops up for 1 second, then goes black again for 1-2 seconds, image shows up for 1 second, and repeat. During this time, Windows is making the device-connected / device-disconnected background sound. If I'm lucky, I can alt-tab out back to the desktop. But sometimes my keyboard becomes unresponsive and I have to hard reset.

The above *only* happens if I'm using the videocard's miniDP port. When using the DVI port or HDMI port, everything works fine.

My current theory is the EDID exchange is causing handshaking/synchronizing issues, and/or faulty AMD drivers when using the miniDP port. I need to find an actual PC monitor to do some more troubleshooting. But until then, anyone have any ideas?
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post #1533 of 2833 Old 01-15-2012, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hdtvluvr View Post

Well, I used a version of the settings listed here (with a few changes - see underlined comments) on a 42/520 and it seems great. I watched it for a few hours on various HD programs (no Blu-ray) before I gave it to my mom. She loves it. I realize using someone else's settings aren't optimal but it got the TV into the ballpark for my eyes.

BTW, the TV in my theater room is a 65 inch CRT Mits that was professionally calibrated so I know the difference between a Calibration and an APA (see otto's post).

Here is what I ended up with:


HDMI Input Set for Cable Input

ISF Expert Baseline 1

Energy Saving Off for Day Time ( Minimum or Medium at night)

Range of Values based on user reports.

Backlight 41 (27-65) Higher setting causes wash out.
Contrast 86 (83-96) Higher setting causes white clip.
Brightness 56 (50-65) Higher setting causes wash out. - Using 60
H. Sharpness 54 (62-71) 50 is neutral, higher may cause halos
V, Sharpness 52 (55-64) 50 is neutral, higher may cause halos
Color 54 (42-59) 50 is neutral, higher may cause color bleed
Tint 0 (R3 - 0 )

Expert Control
Dynamic Contrast Off (Try Medium for more pop. Low or High causes black crush)
Noise Reduction Off
Dig Noise Reduction off
Black Level Low - Using Auto
Real Cinema Off
Color Gamut BT709 - Using SMPTE
Edge Enhancer Low
xvYCC Auto
Expert Pattern Off (normally)
Color Filter Off

Color Temperature Warm
Gamma 2.2


Method 10Point

Pattern Outer (Inner if you have no calibration DVD)

IRE 100 Luminance = 105

IRE Adj. Points
Revised 3-1-11
When you are in the second page of the Expert Menu, you step down to where "Method" is and change it from "2 Point" to "10 Point". Then enter in your IRE starting at 100, enter the R,G, B values, step back up to IRE 100 , Left arrow changing it to IRE 90, and enter it's values, etc.

R, G, B
100 -1, 0, 1
90 -2, 2, 5
80 0, 2, 4
70 1, 2, 2
60 2, 2, -5
50 2 -1, -2
40 2, 0, -2
30 2,-1, 2
20 1, 0, -2
10 -1, 0, 3
0 1,-2, 1

Color Management System

Red Color -13
Red Tint 7
Green Color -12
Green Tint -6
Blue Color -7
Blue Tint -6
Yellow Color -7
Yellow Tint -13
Cyan Color 2
Cyan Tint 4
Magenta Color -11
Magenta Tint 9

A perfectly valid (APA) alternative would be to only adjust the highlighted settings and leave the rest at factory defaults. This will give you the best image possible without a meter and calibration software.


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post #1534 of 2833 Old 01-15-2012, 03:09 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshZH View Post

Btw, our eyes(or brain?) are very inaccurate when it comes to white, it seems. I'm using "Color Temp. - W40" and at first there was a slight yellow tint, but after a few days it became blindingly white without any tints I even thought i accidentally changed settings.

It may depend on your signal source. If it's cable or OTA it might change, but you don't say. Plus, was it evident with the exact same program material program material and where was contrast set? There could be several reasons one being you were using a preset and the color temperatures for some of them are fairly bright. Which preset were you using and with what input source and material?

@PlasmaPZ80U


"many would consider a professionally calibrated set too dull and yellow until their eyes adapted to the calibrated
"

And it could very well be too dull and yellow. As you know very well, Micheal Chen, the source you often quote, found that the calibration tables for many TVs and the meters were unreliable. Charts and graphs do not tell all.
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post #1535 of 2833 Old 01-15-2012, 03:20 PM
 
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Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

A perfectly valid (APA) alternative would be to only adjust the highlighted settings and leave the rest at factory defaults. This will give you the best image possible without a meter and calibration software.

The poster said he was satisfied with what he obtained even comparing it to his professionally calibrated 65" Home Theater TV.

This type of conversation perhaps is best suited to the Display calibration sub forum. All you are doing is continuing an adversarial atmosphere here. Or is that your point? Why not give this a rest and just let people make up their minds on their own instead of this continued hard sell?

We get it. You don't agree.
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post #1536 of 2833 Old 01-15-2012, 03:55 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hdtvluvr View Post

Well, I used a version of the settings listed here (with a few changes - see underlined comments) on a 42/520 and it seems great. I watched it for a few hours on various HD programs (no Blu-ray) before I gave it to my mom. She loves it. I realize using someone else's settings aren't optimal but it got the TV into the ballpark for my eyes.

BTW, the TV in my theater room is a 65 inch CRT Mits that was professionally calibrated so I know the difference between a Calibration and an APA (see otto's post).

Glad to hear you obtained satisfactory picture quality using settings obtained by your eye! It just goes to show that with some judicious application of how the controls work results in a beautiful picture for your mother.

This line of LG TVs have a very nice palette and really shine with just some modest adjustments. Nice to know that LG has supplied such a nice array of USER accessible controls in the Expert Picture Mode including the very useful 2-Point and 10-Point Method for manually setting white balance closer to an optimum point.
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post #1537 of 2833 Old 01-15-2012, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Phase700B View Post

All you are doing is continuing an adversarial atmosphere here. Or is that your point? Why not give this a rest and just let people make up their minds on their own instead of this continued hard sell?

We get it. You don't agree.

Are you the spokesperson for this thread? It seems to me you are equally guilty of what you accuse me of doing. You don't need to argue with everything I say and suggest, even if you believe the exact opposite of it. Let the other posters in the thread speak for themselves instead of trying to represent everyone else here. It takes two people to have an argument.


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post #1538 of 2833 Old 01-15-2012, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phase700B View Post

It may depend on your signal source. If it's cable or OTA it might change, but you don't say. Plus, was it evident with the exact same program material program material and where was contrast set? There could be several reasons one being you were using a preset and the color temperatures for some of them are fairly bright. Which preset were you using and with what input source and material?

I don't think it depends on the source. For someone who used "Medium/Neutral" color temperature, even a perfectly calibrated to D65 TV would probably seem "yellow", at first. And maybe it is, because in RGB balance one color prevails.
After all, the standard is based on daylight "color temperature", and there's heavy sun's influence.

But just for the record, my sources are pretty much everything : Blu-Rays, DVDs, PC, Game Consoles. Satellite, too.

Quote:



"many would consider a professionally calibrated set too dull and yellow until their eyes adapted to the calibrated
"

I pretty much agree with this.
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post #1539 of 2833 Old 01-15-2012, 06:15 PM
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Are all 47" versions of the LK520 TV using the S-IPS panel type? I had seen this rumor a few places and just wondering if anyone with the 47" version ever got an MVA panel.
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post #1540 of 2833 Old 01-15-2012, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by John4721 View Post

Are all 47" versions of the LK520 TV using the S-IPS panel type? I had seen this rumor a few places and just wondering if anyone with the 47" version ever got an MVA panel.

I think the panel lottery applies to all screen sizes and models. The safest bet would be to check that the 4th character in the product code is a Y and not a D or J.


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post #1541 of 2833 Old 01-15-2012, 06:48 PM
 
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Originally Posted by John4721 View Post

Are all 47" versions of the LK520 TV using the S-IPS panel type? I had seen this rumor a few places and just wondering if anyone with the 47" version ever got an MVA panel.

In the 2010 models LG had some 46" and 47" LCD panels but all 47" were LG made since it is one of the "standard" sizes of panel in the LG stable of panels. This year, if I recall correctly all the 47" owners reported S-IPS panels. You can use the Search Thread option at the top right for 47LK520 or LK450 and see.

However, as was last year, as the model year wore on, some TVs started to get panels from other sources. So a lot seems to depend on manufacture date. Soon the 2012 models will be debuting and it will be interesting to see the model line up. I hope they still continue with some CCFL models or at least get more refined with LED full array TVs.
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post #1542 of 2833 Old 01-15-2012, 07:02 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshZH View Post

I don't think it depends on the source. For someone who used "Medium/Neutral" color temperature, even a perfectly calibrated to D65 TV would probably seem "yellow", at first. And maybe it is, because in RGB balance one color prevails.
After all, the standard is based on daylight "color temperature", and there's heavy sun's influence.

But just for the record, my sources are pretty much everything : Blu-Rays, DVDs, PC, Game Consoles. Satellite, too.


I pretty much agree with this.


If your color temperature seems too yellow, you can check it in the Expert menu by going to Method and select 2-Point. Then scroll down and see what the R,G,B Contrast setting screen looks like. If it looks yellow or some other tint, you can try correcting by reducing red and green in that setting and even add some more blue. You don't have to leave it that way and you can always put those settings back to their respective "0" points.

But it would give you an idea how a more neutral, but warm color temperature would look. My LG is the same way and I corrected it this way as did others.
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post #1543 of 2833 Old 01-16-2012, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

...it seems some of these folks may never put a decent meter on their display...

And that would include folks who use an unprofiled D3/C6, right?

It's pretty silly to expect every owner of a TV to go out and purchase a meter and invest the time to learn how to perform a full calibration. It's a fairly involved and complicated process.

There's also personal preference to consider. Many of my friends bring their TV's home, set it on one of the presets and just watch. To them, that becomes what a TV is supposed to look like. Plenty of people don't like the look of a calibrated picture. Fine by me. Why should I care?

Cost is another important consideration, as Phase700B keeps bringing up. In your case, you've spent what - $450 to be able to calibrate a $600 TV? And if you want to know it's right, you'll need to drop another grand or so for an i1Pro spectro - even then, how will you know you received a good, accurate unit? Sure, you'll be able to use these devices to calibrate any TV's you buy in the future, but after a few years of sitting around your devices will need to be calibrated... (BTW - you may be able to rent a i1Pro to profile your C6 - but then, who knows what kind of shape it will be in? )

Given all this, I see no problem with a knowledgeable poster recommending that an owner tries to eyeball their white balance if they've got an issue with their picture and nothing else is working. If their picture ends up looking better to them, progress has been made - even if they end up making their white balance worse from a technical perspective.
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post #1544 of 2833 Old 01-16-2012, 09:48 AM
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Good morning everyone (or good afternoon depending on your geographic location), and hello to djams. Nice to see you again.

...

And, on to more important things, the 49ers were just awesome yesterday!

Hey Otto!

And yes, your 49ers were incredible! Very exciting game...
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post #1545 of 2833 Old 01-16-2012, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

using medium is pretty much all you can do in that case

What colorimeter do you use? I'm going to buy 1 but can't afford much. Is X-rite i1Display2 a good choice? My set is in warm mode is so terrible and yelowish, W25 seems to give best result (by eye) but I'm not so sure.

So what's the best starting point for me to start calibration? Warm mode or Medium ?
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post #1546 of 2833 Old 01-16-2012, 10:50 AM
 
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Originally Posted by fallengt View Post

What colorimeter do you use? I'm going to buy 1 but can't afford much. Is X-rite i1Display2 a good choice? My set is in warm mode is so terrible and yelowish, W25 seems to give best result (by eye) but I'm not so sure.

So what's the best starting point for me to start calibration? Warm mode or Medium ?

To get rid of yellow/green in the warm picture setting use one of the Expert modes instead of the Presets where the W50 - C50 can't remove it. Have you tried any of the Expert Picture modes with any settings and using the AVS HD709 disc?

Try the procedure in Post #1551 one page back from here. It worked for me. and others.

By the way, I owned both X-Rite Display 2 (D2) and Spyder 3 colorimeters and sold them. Here is a link you should read:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1387457
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post #1547 of 2833 Old 01-16-2012, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by djams View Post

And that would include folks who use an unprofiled D3/C6, right?

It's pretty silly to expect every owner of a TV to go out and purchase a meter and invest the time to learn how to perform a full calibration. It's a fairly involved and complicated process.

There's also personal preference to consider. Many of my friends bring their TV's home, set it on one of the presets and just watch. To them, that becomes what a TV is supposed to look like. Plenty of people don't like the look of a calibrated picture. Fine by me. Why should I care?

Cost is another important consideration, as Phase700B keeps bringing up. In your case, you've spent what - $450 to be able to calibrate a $600 TV? And if you want to know it's right, you'll need to drop another grand or so for an i1Pro spectro - even then, how will you know you received a good, accurate unit? Sure, you'll be able to use these devices to calibrate any TV's you buy in the future, but after a few years of sitting around your devices will need to be calibrated... (BTW - you may be able to rent a i1Pro to profile your C6 - but then, who knows what kind of shape it will be in? )

Given all this, I see no problem with a knowledgeable poster recommending that an owner tries to eyeball their white balance if they've got an issue with their picture and nothing else is working. If their picture ends up looking better to them, progress has been made - even if they end up making their white balance worse from a technical perspective.

You make some good points. I am considering either getting a used spectro for cheap or getting a professional calibration done at a reduced rate. And I spent only $450 for my 42LK450 but at least as much for my CalMAN DIY/C6 combo.

Moving on to the average TV owner on this forum, I understand using test patterns and your eyes alone is enough for most people and if they do a basic calibration of the user controls meant to be set by eye with the aid of test patterns, that is a perfectly acceptable and reasonable decision.

However, copying settings and/or trying to set advanced picture settings like grayscale, gamma, and CMS controls by eye with test patterns alone is not only a waste of time but it also provides no guarantee of making the picture any closer to the reference standards. At best, the image is no better than when you started and at worst, it is much worse than when you started. These two approaches are simply ineffective and just plain pointless. This has been proven time and time again by calibrators, both DIY and professional. They are not viable alternatives to actual calibration, only using a setup disc to set the basic controls properly by eye is.

And this is the AV Science forum, so making white balance worse from a technical perspective is not something to encourage nor recommend to new TV owners/users of AVS. I don't think AVS needs any more posters contributing to the misinformation all too common on this side of the display forum.


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post #1548 of 2833 Old 01-16-2012, 12:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fallengt View Post

What colorimeter do you use? I'm going to buy 1 but can't afford much. Is X-rite i1Display2 a good choice? My set is in warm mode is so terrible and yelowish, W25 seems to give best result (by eye) but I'm not so sure.

So what's the best starting point for me to start calibration? Warm mode or Medium ?

I'd try getting the standard D3 colorimeter (about $300). A spectro would be ideal but I believe it would likely cost at least $500.

If you can't get either of those, I'd stick to setting the basic picture controls with a setup disc by eye. The cheaper meters like the D2 and Spyder 3 are not worth it. Use expert picture mode and preferably warm color temp. If warm looks way off to you, medium is the next best choice (though it will likely be farther off from the target D65 white point).


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post #1549 of 2833 Old 01-16-2012, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Phase700B View Post

The only difference is of degree. To you and some others, only a calibrated "accurate" picture with use of a meter is acceptable and you do not accept that a decent and satisfying picture CAN be obtained without one and is fine for others.

Yes and no. What I'm saying is that without using a meter, you'll never be "sure" of your results and thus you will be constantly tweaking settings. One night, something will "look off" and you'll spend an entire evening "fixing" the problem, only to undo your "fix" the next night. (I may have a bit of experience with this )

In other words, it's a waste of time that could be better spent enjoying actual programming.
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post #1550 of 2833 Old 01-17-2012, 05:31 AM
 
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Yes and no. What I'm saying is that without using a meter, you'll never be "sure" of your results and thus you will be constantly tweaking settings. One night, something will "look off" and you'll spend an entire evening "fixing" the problem, only to undo your "fix" the next night. (I may have a bit of experience with this )

In other words, it's a waste of time that could be better spent enjoying actual programming.

Then apparently it's a waste of time also when using a meter. I just read a few recent posts in a "calibration" sub forum and another pro calibrator said the same things about those who have meters. They think they have it "right" and just know it's perfect, but then put on a movie, or watch a football game . . . and "something" just doesn't look "right". Or they read something about profiles being incorrect (many times they are) or another meter is "more" accurate and they have to look at it again. Or they bought a meter that supposedly is NIST certified only to find out that they now have to buy another meter to make sure the first one is "right". Oh, and then the next "Best meter ever" comes along and all previous meters are cheap junk. Or they see another guys TV and it looks better so do a picture reset and start all over!

Human nature. If you say that doesn't happen just because you buy a meter you are selling snake oil.


The truth is most people can get picture quality that is absolutely great by using all the controls on their TV with a bit of knowledge. Most of us here in this thread and others are testament to that. And many of us are here to dispel
the misinformation that they have to buy an additional piece of equipment to get the best picture quality. There is always something to sell. And those who have purchased a meter (or 2,3) HAVE to defend the purchase they made lest they appear duped into a bad purchase. Agreed, though, if you want to make a hobby of using a meter that may be fine for some. But it certainly isn't necessary.
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post #1551 of 2833 Old 01-17-2012, 07:03 AM
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I just calibrated my settings after breaking the TV in for about a week- used the picture wizard. The wizard actually worked very well, IQ looks great and even better than other settings posted in this thread.

If you've tried other people's settings and still aren't happy, I'd suggest using the wizard since everyone's TV can be slightly different.
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post #1552 of 2833 Old 01-17-2012, 08:38 AM
 
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I just calibrated my settings after breaking the TV in for about a week- used the picture wizard. The wizard actually worked very well, IQ looks great and even better than other settings posted in this thread.

If you've tried other people's settings and still aren't happy, I'd suggest using the wizard since everyone's TV can be slightly different.

Yes, we are fortunate LG provided that handy little feature in the TV!

Settings also depend on the amount of room light you usually watch the TV in and, yes, each TV will be somewhat different. Even the settings you've obtained using Picture Wizard sometimes can use a little tweaking. If you get a Blu-ray disc with THX Optimizer on it you can check how the Picture Wizard settings worked out. Usually, pretty close.
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post #1553 of 2833 Old 01-17-2012, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Phase700B View Post


The truth is most people can get picture quality that is absolutely great by using all the controls on their TV with a bit of knowledge. Most of us here in this thread and others are testament to that.

Really?

...then why do they use a reference grade color analyzer in the first place to calibrate white balance at the factory? They could save a lot of money by just using a little bit of knowledge instead. And professional calibrators could do the same as well. I guess they're all idiots just wasting money.



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post #1554 of 2833 Old 01-17-2012, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by uncleguito View Post

I just calibrated my settings after breaking the TV in for about a week- used the picture wizard. The wizard actually worked very well, IQ looks great and even better than other settings posted in this thread.

If you've tried other people's settings and still aren't happy, I'd suggest using the wizard since everyone's TV can be slightly different.

it will get you close, but using a setup disc with test patterns will be even better


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post #1555 of 2833 Old 01-17-2012, 09:06 AM
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However, copying settings and/or trying to set advanced picture settings like grayscale, gamma, and CMS controls by eye with test patterns alone is not only a waste of time but it also provides no guarantee of making the picture any closer to the reference standards. At best, the image is no better than when you started and at worst, it is much worse than when you started. These two approaches are simply ineffective and just plain pointless. This has been proven time and time again by calibrators, both DIY and professional. They are not viable alternatives to actual calibration, only using a setup disc to set the basic controls properly by eye is.

And this is the AV Science forum, so making white balance worse from a technical perspective is not something to encourage nor recommend to new TV owners/users of AVS. I don't think AVS needs any more posters contributing to the misinformation all too common on this side of the display forum.

Well, this IS an owner's thread not a calibration thread. Posters come here with a perceived picture issue looking for help. "Go buy a meter" or "Get a professional calibration" just isn't a very helpful response.

I personally had no luck with "other people's settings" - and I tried a bunch of them. That's why I ended up with a meter. But plenty of folks have had success with borrowed settings - good for them. Sure there's no way that their set would "measure right" per the standards. But it doesn't matter. Take for example the owner a few pages back who said he's got his picture set on Vivid and is loving every minute of it. Awesome.

To best explain how I see our difference of opinion on this topic I'll present a fictitious dialog between a new owner of this set and someone with your rigid point of view:

[New owner]: Hey everybody! I just picked up one of these bad boys and plugged in the CNET review settings. Picture looks awesome - you guys should check these settings out. Here's a link...

[Calibration Purist]: No, no, no - you can't do that. Sharing display menu settings between different sets will not work. You've made the picture worse.

[New owner]: But I really didn't like the way the picture looked before I entered the CNET settings. The picture had a yellowish-green cast to it that kind of strained my eyes to watch.

[Calibration Purist]: The settings you have changed can only be set with a meter on your specific TV, in your specific environment.

[New owner]: But I really can't afford to buy a meter, and I don't have any idea how to use one. And it really does look better to me with the CNET settings.

[Calibration Purist]: Well, you probably have no idea what the picture is supposed to look like in the first place - and trust me, you have certainly created a situation in which your set is far from established industry standards. You would be better off not using display menu settings developed on another TV.

[New owner]: So I should reset it?

[Calibration Purist]: Yes.

[New owner]: Ok. Bummer...

[Calibration Purist]: You are doing the right thing.

I hope you can see how ridiculous this looks.
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post #1556 of 2833 Old 01-17-2012, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by HDTVChallenged View Post

Yes and no. What I'm saying is that without using a meter, you'll never be "sure" of your results and thus you will be constantly tweaking settings. One night, something will "look off" and you'll spend an entire evening "fixing" the problem, only to undo your "fix" the next night. (I may have a bit of experience with this )



This perfectly describes my own attempts to make adjustments "by eye". I'd spend hours getting it "perfect", then turn it on the next day and...

My eye can NOT be trusted.
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post #1557 of 2833 Old 01-17-2012, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by djams View Post

Well, this IS an owner's thread not a calibration thread. Posters come here with a perceived picture issue looking for help. "Go buy a meter" or "Get a professional calibration" just isn't a very helpful response.

I personally had no luck with "other people's settings" - and I tried a bunch of them. That's why I ended up with a meter. But plenty of folks have had success with borrowed settings - good for them. Sure there's no way that their set would "measure right" per the standards. But it doesn't matter. Take for example the owner a few pages back who said he's got his picture set on Vivid and is loving every minute of it. Awesome.

There is an alternative I've mentioned many times throughout this thread. Just get a setup DVD or BD (you can even burn the AVS disc for free) and use the supplied instructions to set all basic picture controls properly. I see nothing wrong with this approach for anyone not wanting buy a meter or hire a pro. In fact, it can be pretty effective (see this link). You get basically 60% to 70% of of what you can get from a pro. And all you need to do is follow simple instructions on the disc or with a supplied PDF or website link.


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post #1558 of 2833 Old 01-17-2012, 09:26 AM
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This perfectly describes my own attempts to make adjustments "by eye". I'd spend hours getting it "perfect", then turn it on the next day and...

My eye can NOT be trusted.

Then you of all people should understand why some of us are wary of advising new owners to set advanced picture controls by eye. Not even pros with trained eyes do this nor do the people at the factory who do white balance on the TV for the very first time.


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post #1559 of 2833 Old 01-17-2012, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

There is an alternative I've mentioned many times throughout this thread. Just get a setup DVD or BD (you can even burn the AVS disc for free) and use the supplied instructions to set all basic picture controls properly. I see nothing wrong with this approach for anyone not wanting buy a meter or hire a pro. In fact, it can be pretty effective (see this link). You get basically 60% to 70% of of what you can get from a pro. And all you need to do is follow simple instructions on the disc or with a supplied PDF or website link.

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Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

Then you of all people should understand why some of us are wary of advising new owners to set advanced picture controls by eye. Not even pros with trained eyes do this nor do the people at the factory who do white balance on the TV for the very first time.

Yes. But in my case, even after setting the basics properly I still had this yellowish-greenish dingy/muddy look that others are mentioning in this thread. It is truly awful - and it does strain the eyes to watch. So, if someone with a better eye than me is able to adjust their 2-point white balance by eye and minimize this problem, then I'm all for it. It's at least worth a shot.
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post #1560 of 2833 Old 01-17-2012, 09:48 AM
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This perfectly describes my own attempts to make adjustments "by eye". I'd spend hours getting it "perfect", then turn it on the next day and...

My eye can NOT be trusted.

LOL ... You know, in over 15 years of tinkering around with various degrees of calibration levels and spending entirely *too much* time cruising AVS and other home-theater sites (even going back to the old USENET (RIP) forums) the one post I've never seen is the one that says:

'Hey guys I finally got around to getting a colorimeter. Last night, I checked my "eye-balled" calibration that took me months to settle on ... and guess what I had it nailed!!! Perfect!!!! Woooooooootttttt!!!! Anyone want to buy a used colorimeter?'

On the contrary, these folks usually just wind up slinking away or they pop up timidly in the calibration forum and start asking a bunch of (newbie) questions. Fast forward a few months and suddenly they're "grizzled vets" arguing over the merits of i1D2's vs. specto's vs. profiling for specific displays.

Ya'll *can* do what ever you want. I'm just trying to save you some time, spare you from endless frustration (and ultimately from public embarrassment.)

Carry on.

PS: By "ya'll" I don't mean you personally, djams
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