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post #2401 of 2833 Old 04-08-2012, 08:45 AM
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I bought one of the last 55lk520's from Amazon, was delivered on Friday. Did the loupe test and indeed an IPS panel. No DSE, and very happy with the picture. Have not calibrated as yet and am sure once I do this will be a great display.
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post #2402 of 2833 Old 04-08-2012, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btop58 View Post

I bought one of the last 55lk520's from Amazon, was delivered on Friday. Did the loupe test and indeed an IPS panel. No DSE, and very happy with the picture. Have not calibrated as yet and am sure once I do this will be a great display.

I have the LD520 (2010) with the S-IPS panel and it is as sharp and clear as it was the day I took it out of the box (even better once it was calibrated). They are pretty good right out of the box. I'd use it for a couple of weeks before you start to calibrate it (either doing an Accurate Picture Adjustment with a cal disk or full calibration using a disk, meters, and software). Familiarize yourself with the presets first, setup a bias light, and then go for it. Congrats!
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post #2403 of 2833 Old 04-08-2012, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post

I have the LD520 (2010) with the S-IPS panel and it is as sharp and clear as it was the day I took it out of the box (even better once it was calibrated). They are pretty good right out of the box. I'd use it for a couple of weeks before you start to calibrate it (either doing an Accurate Picture Adjustment with a cal disk or full calibration using a disk, meters, and software). Familiarize yourself with the presets first, setup a bias light, and then go for it. Congrats!

I'd say it wouldn't hurt to use a cal disk right away, just recheck your settings after the set has about 150 hours on it. The same can apply to a full calibration, though some may not want to have to do a touch-up after 150 hours of use.
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post #2404 of 2833 Old 04-08-2012, 10:55 AM
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@Ross Ridge,
HDMI requires a digital "handshake" no matter what the source is, if they can't share the key then no soup for you. His drivers could be the problem but I think it's the TV that's refusing to show the desktop, if VGA is working then use that.

http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/hdmi1.htm
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post #2405 of 2833 Old 04-08-2012, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

I'd say it wouldn't hurt to use a cal disk right away, just recheck your settings after the set has about 150 hours on it. The same can apply to a full calibration, though some may not want to have to do a touch-up after 150 hours of use.

I've always preferred to have a burn-in period of my electronics before seriously tweaking the settings. Sort of gives me a baseline to compare. However, it's what ever you feel comfortable with. There really isn't a right or wrong.
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post #2406 of 2833 Old 04-08-2012, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moviegeek View Post

@Ross Ridge,
HDMI requires a digital "handshake" no matter what the source is, if they can't share the key then no soup for you. His drivers could be the problem but I think it's the TV that's refusing to show the desktop, if VGA is working then use that.

No, it doesn't work like that. A TV will never refuse to display a picture if the source device doesn't support HDCP. The HDMI specification does not require any device to support HDCP. It does however require that all display devices support plain unencrypted HDMI.


Nothing in that article refutes what I said. It makes it clear that its only the source device that initiates and requires HDCP, not the TV.
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post #2407 of 2833 Old 04-08-2012, 12:08 PM
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@00firebird,
Did you try setting your desktop to 1280x720/60Hz?
Does VGA work?
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post #2408 of 2833 Old 04-08-2012, 02:17 PM
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i'll try your recommendations in a bit, first let me complain about the corners on this damn thing! i think they slowly get worse and worse, i don't notice it as much against other colors though.

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Originally Posted by moviegeek View Post

@00firebird,
Did you try setting your desktop to 1280x720/60Hz?
Does VGA work?

yeah i don't have a problem with dvi-vga, i'm running it that way at 1600x1200 for now.
LL
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post #2409 of 2833 Old 04-08-2012, 02:59 PM
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I'm looking at picking up a 42LK520 for gaming, around 600 canadian. Worth it at that price? Also found a LG 42" 1080p 60Hz LCD HDTV (42LK450) for 550.
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post #2410 of 2833 Old 04-08-2012, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kully View Post

I'm looking at picking up a 42LK520 for gaming, around 600 canadian. Worth it at that price? Also found a LG 42" 1080p 60Hz LCD HDTV (42LK450) for 550.

You should be able to find the 42LK450 at a number of different stores in Canada for less. That 42LK520 price looks more normal, but 120HZ interpolation generally isn't considered helpful for games.
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post #2411 of 2833 Old 04-08-2012, 04:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 00firebird View Post

i'll try your recommendations in a bit, first let me complain about the corners on this damn thing! i think they slowly get worse and worse, i don't notice it as much against other colors though.

A TV advertisement isn't necessarily the best test case, vignetting is very common in advertisements these days so what you see in your picture could've been part of the original ad. Also make sure you're not taking pictures of the screen too close to the TV. If they're taken closer than you'd normally sit, then the edges of the TV will be affected bigger off-center view angle issues than you'd normally experience.

Why are you using 1600x1200 over VGA? The native resolution of your TV is 1920x1080.
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post #2412 of 2833 Old 04-08-2012, 06:34 PM
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WOOAH just noticed another huge problem
whenever I switch to my xbox 360 input (HDMI1) it restarts my console! the TV shows connecting... in the top left then it loads and restarts the console. what the heck??
It does this even if I don't use the remote and i'm switching inputs right on the tv.

i tried 1920x1080 but the thing looks like 4:3 it is very squished in from the left and right sides. i'll have to screw with that later when i fix the xbox problem.
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post #2413 of 2833 Old 04-08-2012, 06:44 PM
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Make sure it's set set to "just scan" in the aspect ratio setting. Also make sure that your Nvidia control panel isn't trying to scale the resolution. I've no idea what's going on with our 360 though.
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post #2414 of 2833 Old 04-08-2012, 06:50 PM
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The only two options i get are 16:9 and 4:3.. the others are grayed out. wtf.
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post #2415 of 2833 Old 04-08-2012, 06:56 PM
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well reading on another site it is an xbox issue not the tv issue. I have the AV cable and the HDMI both plugged in (using AV for digital optical audio) and it conflicts when both are plugged in, even though the components are not being used.
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post #2416 of 2833 Old 04-08-2012, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 00firebird View Post

WOOAH just noticed another huge problem
whenever I switch to my xbox 360 input (HDMI1) it restarts my console! the TV shows connecting... in the top left then it loads and restarts the console. what the heck??

This is apparently a known issue with the Xbox 360. If you have both component and HDMI cables connected your console at the same time then the Xbox 360 will automatically switch between the two outputs when it detects the presence or absense of an HDMI connection. Unfortunately the Xbox 360 needs to reboot itself in order to switch between outputs like this.

You can fix the problem either by simply not using the component cable or by making modifications to it.

Quote:


i tried 1920x1080 but the thing looks like 4:3 it is very squished in from the left and right sides. i'll have to screw with that later when i fix the xbox problem.

Change the resolution to 1920x1080, and then use the Ratio button on the remote to switch from 4:3 to 16:9. After that press Home on the remote and select Picture -> Screen (RGB-PC) -> Auto Configure. That should get your desktop properly aligned on the screen.
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post #2417 of 2833 Old 04-08-2012, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ross Ridge View Post

This is apparently a known issue with the Xbox 360. If you have both component and HDMI cables connected your console at the same time then the Xbox 360 will automatically switch between the two outputs when it detects the presence or absense of an HDMI connection. Unfortunately the Xbox 360 needs to reboot itself in order to switch between outputs like this.

You can fix the problem either by simply not using the component cable or by making modifications to it.



Change the resolution to 1920x1080, and then use the Ratio button on the remote to switch from 4:3 to 16:9. After that press Home on the remote and select Picture -> Screen (RGB-PC) -> Auto Configure. That should get your desktop properly aligned on the screen.

thanks both helped, i will have to get used to the text still looking vertically stretched though. i'll show you what i mean.
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post #2418 of 2833 Old 04-08-2012, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 00firebird View Post

thanks both helped, i will have to get used to the text still looking vertically stretched though. i'll show you what i mean.

The first picture on the left looks vertically squashed to me. The second picture on looks correct. The icons and such that are supposed to be squares and circles look like squares and circles, not rectangles and ovals like they do in the first picture.

Try adding the standard Clock gadget to your desktop. The standard clock skin should look like perfect circle, so should all the standard circular skins. If necessary, you can use that as guide and fiddle around with the manual adjustments to see if you can make it a perfect circle.
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post #2419 of 2833 Old 04-09-2012, 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Ross Ridge View Post

No, HDCP doesn't work that way. Only the source requires HDCP, if the source doesn't require it then the TV will work fine with out it.

If the video card doesn't support HDCP you'll only get a problem when trying to play protected content on the PC that requires HDCP. The video player application will simply refuse to play such content.

As you've figured out already, 00firebird, the problem is very unlikely to be related to HDCP. As a simple test, try rebooting your PC with the TV being the *only* thing connected to the video card and only through a single cable. Remove your old "DVI to VGA" cable if its still connected and if you have a regular PC monitor or another TV attached to your PC, disconnect it as well.

If when you reboot the PC with only the TV connected, you can then see all the normal BIOS boot screens on the TV as well Windows when it finally boots up then the probably ran into one of the following problems:
  1. The TV, intedned to be a primary display, was assigned by Windows to be secondary display and disabled.
  2. The TV, intended to be second display, wasn't enabled in Windows.
  3. The TV was enabled as a display, but configured to use a resolution that the TV doesn't support.
  4. You had more than two displays connected to your video card at one time. Even if your video card has more than two connectors on the back it can only drive at most two of them at the same time. (DisplayPort is a possible exception.)
If it's first problem, then leaving the TV as the only thing connected should solve the problem.

If it's the second or third problem then it can be solved by reconfiguring Windows. Reconnect the display you intend to use as the primary monitor and reboot. If you're using Windows 7, right click on the desktop background and select Screen Resolution from the menu. On line marked "Multiple Displays" choose "Extend these displays" (if necessary). On line the marked "Display" choose "LG TV" or whatever appears to be your TV. It may be number 1 or 2 on the list. Then (if necessary) change the resolution to "1920x1080".

If it's the last problem then the simple solution is to only connect two displays at once. Otherwise you can use the Screen Resolution control panel described above to select which two displays you want to the video card to use.

If when you reboot the PC with only the TV connected you see the BIOS start up screens but nothing when Windows starts then it may be that Windows is trying to use a resolution that the TV doesn't support over HDMI. Try booting Windows in safe mode and see if that works.

If you can't even see the boot screens on your TV then it's probably a broken cable or something else hardware related.

so heres what happens, i see all the dos/windows loading screens right up to the very last point of loading windows... then it goes no signal. under display it only gives two options. 1. generic non-Pnp monitor, and 2. available display output on: nvidia geforce gts 250. when i go to the second one it brings up a checkbox for 'make this my display' but it is grayed out. So i just tried to select option 2 and as soon as i clicked OK it reverted back to 1...uhg.
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post #2420 of 2833 Old 04-09-2012, 11:06 AM
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so heres what happens, i see all the dos/windows loading screens right up to the very last point of loading windows... then it goes no signal. under display it only gives two options. 1. generic non-Pnp monitor, and 2. available display output on: nvidia geforce gts 250. when i go to the second one it brings up a checkbox for 'make this my display' but it is grayed out. So i just tried to select option 2 and as soon as i clicked OK it reverted back to 1...uhg.

Hmm... that's odd. The "Available display output on" line indicates that video card has an unused output, but the video card hasn't detected anything connceted to it. Your video card should be able to detect that its connected to an LG TV even when the TV is turned off (on standby).

Could be a bad cable, if the "hot plug detect" line is broken that might explain that behaviour, although I'm not sure if you'd see anything while booting. You can try checking to see if the cable is seated properly at both ends, or just switching the cable. If you're using a DVI to HDMI cable try using a plain HDMI to HDMI cable.

Also, if you've already tried to implement the 4:4:4 EDID override fix then you should try to revert that. It might be confusing Windows somehow.
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post #2421 of 2833 Old 04-09-2012, 04:26 PM
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it's a brand new monoprice dvi-hdmi and i've never had a problem with their products, probably not the cable. i haven't tried doing the override fix yet either. i'll try asking on some more windows specific forums.. thanks!
when in doubt, blame windows.
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post #2422 of 2833 Old 04-09-2012, 05:28 PM
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it's a brand new monoprice dvi-hdmi and i've never had a problem with their products, probably not the cable.

I'd still borrow the HDMI cable from your Xbox 360 or Blu-Ray player and see if that solves the problem. If it works then you have a simple solution to your problem. If the problem persists, you can be pretty sure that the DVI to HDMI cable isn't to blame.
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post #2423 of 2833 Old 04-09-2012, 10:51 PM
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I thought that 444 didnt work on hdmi-hdmi though based on what ive read. And thats the only reason im bothering with it
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post #2424 of 2833 Old 04-10-2012, 01:15 AM
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Originally Posted by 00firebird View Post

I thought that 444 didnt work on hdmi-hdmi though based on what ive read. And thats the only reason im bothering with it

Chances are you're not going to notice the difference between 4:4:4 and 4:2:2, but chances are you'll notice that even 4:2:2 HDMI is a significant improvement over the VGA connection you're using now, let alone the "No Display" your DVI to HDMI cable is giving you.

Seriously, swap cables around and see what happens. If you've got another display with a HDMI or DVI input, you can also test your DVI to HDMI cable with that (it works both ways). You'll find that a lot less fustrating than going down the blame Windows route.
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post #2425 of 2833 Old 04-10-2012, 03:54 AM
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Bought the 42LK450 for 430 CAD, think I struck out on the panel though. The blacks are weird shades of grey. Probably will return it tomorrow and look into a different set.
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post #2426 of 2833 Old 04-10-2012, 08:31 AM
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Bought the 42LK450 for 430 CAD, think I struck out on the panel though. The blacks are weird shades of grey. Probably will return it tomorrow and look into a different set.
Did you calibrate it and turn the backlight down? I would wait one week and calibrate it again, it took about one week for my 42LK450 to break-in and the picture improved. Try the attached settings:

 

LG 42LK450.txt 0.3837890625k . file
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post #2427 of 2833 Old 04-10-2012, 09:46 AM
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For a few days, I had a feeling that the icky greens had returned on my LK450. So I pulled the i1D2 out of storage and verified that it was still reading the primaries in the same place (+/- 0.0015 ish.) Assuming that it's still reading Y correctly, the display had lost ~25% of it's post calibration brightness (103Nits down to ~76Nits) ... and that the greyscale was now tracking to the green side.

A couple of calibration runs later and all is well again. I decided to limit the peak white to ~90Nits (26ft/L ... ish) which seems to be plenty in my viewing room ... this only required a modest increase on back-light drive (30 -> 33.)

Which is a long way of saying, ya'll are probably going to want to recheck your calibrations once you rack up 2300 to 2400 hours. As always, YMMV.
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post #2428 of 2833 Old 04-10-2012, 10:37 AM
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For a few days, I had a feeling that the icky greens had returned on my LK450. So I pulled the i1D2 out of storage and verified that it was still reading the primaries in the same place (+/- 0.0015 ish.) Assuming that it's still reading Y correctly, the display had lost ~25% of it's post calibration brightness (103Nits down to ~76Nits) ... and that the greyscale was now tracking to the green side.

A couple of calibration runs later and all is well again. I decided to limit the peak white to ~90Nits (26ft/L ... ish) which seems to be plenty in my viewing room ... this only required a modest increase on back-light drive (30 -> 33.)

Which is a long way of saying, ya'll are probably going to want to recheck your calibrations once you rack up 2300 to 2400 hours. As always, YMMV.

losing 25% of light output after about 2500 hours is a bit disappointing, given that the EEFL backlight on this set is rated at 60,000 hours under typical usage.

Was the meter and display warmed up together for at least one hour? I find my C6 needs a proper warm-up to read Y correctly and even after warm-up it will read Y higher on a hotter day than on a cooler day by a couple fL per couple of degrees Fahrenheit.
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post #2429 of 2833 Old 04-10-2012, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by moviegeek View Post

Did you calibrate it and turn the backlight down? I would wait one week and calibrate it again, it took about one week for my 42LK450 to break-in and the picture improved. Try the attached settings:

do you have the IPS panel? my settings look kinda different
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post #2430 of 2833 Old 04-10-2012, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ross Ridge View Post

Chances are you're not going to notice the difference between 4:4:4 and 4:2:2, but chances are you'll notice that even 4:2:2 HDMI is a significant improvement over the VGA connection you're using now, let alone the "No Display" your DVI to HDMI cable is giving you.

Seriously, swap cables around and see what happens. If you've got another display with a HDMI or DVI input, you can also test your DVI to HDMI cable with that (it works both ways). You'll find that a lot less fustrating than going down the blame Windows route.

hdmi-hdmi works and brings up alot more settings, but it looks kind of terrible. under display it shows LG TV now too. i can also select just scan among alot of other things. i think it has more to do with the TV being friendlier to changing settings on an hdmi input. what settings should I try changing now? the default picture settings on the tv? or some of the ones on windows.
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