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post #2821 of 2839 Old 12-18-2012, 06:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post

Has it always been crooked or did something drop on the right side from above?
It's always been crooked- I just didn't notice it until I took this photo.
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post #2822 of 2839 Old 12-18-2012, 09:24 AM
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Hmmm, that's a toughie if you're unable to remove the screws without breaking the stand.
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post #2823 of 2839 Old 12-31-2012, 11:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bombatwist View Post

anyone know what might be wrong with my 42LK450??
I get this grey/blackish bar that goes across the screen.
700
Is my TV damaged or something?

Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

looks like one or more of the EEFL tubes that make up the backlight have died

i have that similar issue, can it be fixed ? or may someone give a solution to this problem. thanks
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post #2824 of 2839 Old 01-01-2013, 10:04 AM
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PlasmaPZ80U is probably correct. You'll need to call for service.
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post #2825 of 2839 Old 03-17-2013, 09:27 PM
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Hey, guys. Sorry for digging up the thread, but I was wondering if anyone can help me with my questions/concerns or tell me to go make a thread.

So, I just recently realized that my 42LK450 wasn't doing 4:4:4 chroma on my PC (Nvidia card), so I looked up the EDID override fix and did it. During the re-testing and some basic visual "calibration" with the AVS HD patterns again, I noticed that the gamma is apparently off by a decent amount, at least by the standard charts I can find. Just eyeing it, red's around 2.0, green's at 1.8, blue is closer to 2.15, and the gray is around 1.65. This is just using the basic settings (contrast, brightness, color, tint, and color temperature). I've tried setting the gamma on High, but that only drops them by about 0.1.

Is gamma something that can be adjusted any further on this TV with the basic settings? Are those gamma charts like on sites like http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/gamma_calibration.php still applicable to a screen like this? If I want better results than this, would I need to invest in calibration hardware and deal with the various individual settings for the 10-point IRE and all of that, and possibly have to make a color management profile?
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post #2826 of 2839 Old 03-19-2013, 03:39 PM
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Anybody? I'd just appreciate some kind of answer one way or another. The more I read, the more it seems like I'd need to pick up a calibration device (something like an i1Display Pro) and get intimate with the CMS to get much better than the basic setup I've already done.
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post #2827 of 2839 Old 04-16-2013, 10:11 PM
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I figured all of my problems out. Now I must leave something behind, because I simply cannot erase my post. Feel free to delete this post. sorry.
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post #2828 of 2839 Old 06-05-2013, 06:30 PM
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hmmm looks like i like to try this on my set ...

i have moninfo ...

what are the 4 bytes i am suppose to look for?

tyvm in advance ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshZH View Post


Mine didn't. Because the DVI-HDMI cable i'm using, strangely enough, passsed audio as well(but reading through this forum, it's not that uncommon). When there's audio(HDMI-HDMI, DVI-HDMI) 4:4:4 is always disabled, no matter Nvidia or AMD. You can't have both.


If it's just movies, i'd say don't bother with 4:4:4, as i have yet to see 4:4:4 content on blu-ray, dvd, or whatever(i could be wrong, though).

As for the fix itself, first you need "Phoenix EDID Designer".


Launch it, then "Tools" -> "Extract Registry EDID"." Look for your dispaly in the list, select it, then "Tools" -> "Byte Viewer".


This is that you're looking for(as an example) :




Write them down somewhere.


Now, launch regedit, "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE" -> "SYSTEM" -> "CurrentControlSet" -> "Control" -> "Video"


There should some keys, expand them and look for "0000" with many entries and your adapter name in it. Right click on that "0000" and "New Binary Value". Rename it to "OverrideEdidFlags0", then double click it and enter "* * * * 00 00 ff ff 04 00 00 00 7e 01 00", where "* * * *" are the four bytes you recovered with Phoenix EDID Designer.


Restart the computer. Now you'll have full 4:4:4, but no HDMI/DVI audio.



Very simple test : Open "Paint", fill the screen with black, take "Pencil" and make one red dot. Zoom in(max.). You'll tell right away if 4:4:4 is enabled or not.
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post #2829 of 2839 Old 07-15-2013, 08:06 AM
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I got my LG 47LK520 to do 75hz.. true 75hz! with monitor overclock



Apparently it only seems to work with nVida cards. I've got my monitor overclocked to 75Hz, up from 60hz/

http://3dvision-blog.com/tag/evga-pixel-clock-oc/

A link to EVGA Pixel Clock OC: http://3dvision-blog.com/wp-content/...xelclockoc.exe

As far as safe:
Quote:
NVIDIA tells us that overclocking the monitor is perfectly safe. You will just get visual errors or a black screen if the monitor can't handle the setting, and I tend to agree.
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/N..._Titan/32.html
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post #2830 of 2839 Old 01-03-2014, 02:24 PM
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Sorry if this has been answered. Will my LG 55LK520 output dolby digital from the optical out when casting something with digital sound from ChromeCast? My receiver does not have HDMI inputs, so I have the ChromeCast connected directly to the TV and am using the TV sound at present.
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post #2831 of 2839 Old 01-03-2014, 02:38 PM
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I have the LD520 and the only way I can listen to discrete 5.1 thru optical is from the internal ATSC tuner (which is fine because tv for us is OTA). TV speakers are always kept off. I don't think the LD/LK series can pass discrete 5.1 from an external source (HDMI) via optical. I had heard a long time ago that you could go into the service menu on some models and enable that feature but I highly recommend not attempting that. Entering into the service menu is the quickest way to brick your tv because firmware versions can vary from set to set enough that the commands may be different.
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post #2832 of 2839 Old 01-05-2014, 07:05 PM
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Thank you. I did run an optical wire from the TV to the receiver and it appears that it is not passing 5.1 to the receiver. Still sounds much better than the TV speakers which I have now returned to off.
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post #2833 of 2839 Old 01-05-2014, 09:07 PM
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Anything sounds better than tv speakers wink.gif so at least you're getting better audio now.
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post #2834 of 2839 Old 10-30-2015, 12:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by filter4ever View Post
How can I access the service menu on my 42LK450? Need to enable dolby digital passthrough from HDMI to Optical output. Can I use a remote, or do I have to go through the RS232 somehow?

Anyone know how to do this?
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post #2835 of 2839 Old 10-30-2015, 04:46 AM
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I have the service manual.. and I believe you need a special remote or a harmony / urc that you can program. The links still appear valid -

http://openlgtv.org.ru/wiki/index.ph..._menus_/_modes

pm me your email and I will send you what I have for the service manual - its 5mb
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post #2836 of 2839 Old 11-16-2015, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by filter4ever View Post
How can I access the service menu on my 42LK450? Need to enable dolby digital passthrough from HDMI to Optical output. Can I use a remote, or do I have to go through the RS232 somehow?
Quote:
Originally Posted by richeydog View Post
Anyone know how to do this?

I finally was able to access the service menu. I changed the spdif output to AC3 instead of PCM. Now, when I hook up my Dish 722 DVR/Bluray Player to the TV with an HDMI cable, then run an optical cable from the TV to my Denon AVR-591, I get Dolby Digital 5.1

Unfortunately, the TV doesn't seem to be able to decode Dolby Digital Plus. I have a Roku 3 and was hoping the TV would be able to transcode DD+ to Dolby Digital so I could receive 5.1 Audio with Netflix.

Last edited by richeydog; 11-17-2015 at 02:09 PM.
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post #2837 of 2839 Old 11-16-2015, 07:50 PM
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Why don't you run everything thru the receiver which should be the hub of your HTS? No messing with the service menu (which can be dangerous) and your receiver should be able to decode what you need it to do. I just use the optical cable from the tv to the receiver for OTA and it works like its supposed to.
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post #2838 of 2839 Old 11-17-2015, 01:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post
Why don't you run everything thru the receiver which should be the hub of your HTS? No messing with the service menu (which can be dangerous) and your receiver should be able to decode what you need it to do. I just use the optical cable from the tv to the receiver for OTA and it works like its supposed to.
Oops forgot to mention why I was doing this. My Denon AVR-591 won't process Dolby Digital Plus properly. It has the old version of DD+, not the new version that Netflix supports. So when I play a movie from Netflix (Roku > HDMI > Receiver > HDMI > TV) the dialogue in the center speaker produces a distorted, scratchy like sound. There's a whole thread about it here...
Dolby Digital Plus and Netflix on Various AVRs

Basically, I was looking for an inexpensive way to get DD 5.1 audio to my receiver from services like Netflix, Amazon, Vudu, etc. without having to upgrade to a new streaming device or avr.

Last edited by richeydog; 11-17-2015 at 02:12 PM.
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post #2839 of 2839 Old 11-23-2015, 12:55 PM
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Anyone ever gone into the service menu(ez adjust) and changed their country/region? My USA 42lk450 only has dolby digital. The other day I took a peek at the look at the UK manual and noticed it has Dolby Digital Plus listed in the specs.

I was just wondering if I changed my region to UK would I be able to get Dolby Digital Plus?
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