Official Samsung UNXXD5000 Owners' Thread - Page 6 - AVS Forum
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post #151 of 171 Old 04-23-2012, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loopdemack View Post

Yes in essence that's right. Its the way how the image bits were ordered to position on the subpixels.
We need to ask them is the subpixel positioning ordered from the motherboard or by the firmware. When I say by the motherboard I mean by the some fixed component or just by the software order.
Maybe the solution is easy.

Ask for their tier 3 support and for their developer executives, they could hold the answer.
Tier1 and Tier 2 were just too lame.

Ok, the dutch team finally responded.
They told me that 1:1 pixel mapping is supported on the European D5000 models. They couldn't tell me whether or not that was because of hardware or firmware.
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post #152 of 171 Old 04-23-2012, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ruudboek View Post

Ok, the dutch team finally responded.
They told me that 1:1 pixel mapping is supported on the European D5000 models. They couldn't tell me whether or not that was because of hardware or firmware.

Tell them that we can show them European models series 5000 also without 1:1.
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post #153 of 171 Old 04-30-2012, 11:12 AM
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Hi guys, i am sorry for breaking into this topic but i have a doubt and i hope you can help me with it...
First of all i am Portuguese... So if i do not express myself as i should i am terrebly sorry.. XD

So... I am thinking of buying a Tv for my bedroom... After some research i think that i am going to buy or the Samsung UE32D6000 or the UE37D5500. The 6000 has 3D but i don't really care about it, my main concern is about the 100hz on the D5500 versus the 200hz of motion rate on the D6000.

So wich one do you think i should buy? The D5500 That is bigger or the D6000 that has better motion rate? Both Tv's cost exactly the same...

The tv is going mainly to be used to play Ps3 and watch some movies.

Can you help me decide please?

Thank you...
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post #154 of 171 Old 04-30-2012, 04:14 PM
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First, Pedro, you write the English language better than a lot of Americans. I commend you.
Since I also don't care about 3D, I would buy the larger 37" D5500. I don't think the 200Hz will make much if any improvement in the motion blurr over the 100Hz D6000, but I can not say for sure what the difference will be when playing games on the PS3. Maybe someone else will reply. Good luck.
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post #155 of 171 Old 04-30-2012, 04:50 PM
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Thank you very much for your answer FltTester...

I do also believe that since they have the same price the D5500 will be the right choice not just because it is bigger, but also because not only in this forum but also all over the internet i have read many reviews that said wonders about the d5500 and d5000 models.

What concerns is that many are saying that this D5500 and the D5000 are not actually 100 hz. On the other side i have also read that the D6000 is not also 200hz, at least not real ones, and that both models do have technologies that boost the motion rate but that does not necessarilly means that they have what it says in the tv's box.

As i said, 3D is not that important to me since i am one of those guys that believes that 3D seriously gives you a bad headache and eye pains after watching half an hour of any 3D movie (avatar in the theatres is an amazing experience but when movie was over my eyes were killing me). XD

Also i was told that 3D in 32 inch models is not that great and that specially in the 32d6000 3D was kind of a disapointting experience...

I had the oportunity to get the new 32 inch es6100 but i did not like the look of it (and except for the wifi and the web browser it seemed pretty much the same as the d6000).

So if anyone can help, i would really love to know the diferences between image quality and motion rate between these two models and if should i stick with the bigger or the smaller with more 100hz more...

Most of all i want great picture quality combined with a reat tv to play games like Call of Duty or Fifa...

For now i am leaning towards the 37D5500... Let me now if i am making the right choice please...

Thank you...
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post #156 of 171 Old 04-30-2012, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedro Oliveira View Post

Thank you very much for your answer FltTester...

I do also believe that since they have the same price the D5500 will be the right choice not just because it is bigger, but also because not only in this forum but also all over the internet i have read many reviews that said wonders about the d5500 and d5000 models.

What concerns is that many are saying that this D5500 and the D5000 are not actually 100 hz. On the other side i have also read that the D6000 is not also 200hz, at least not real ones, and that both models do have technologies that boost the motion rate but that does not necessarilly means that they have what it says in the tv's box.

As i said, 3D is not that important to me since i am one of those guys that believes that 3D seriously gives you a bad headache and eye pains after watching half an hour of any 3D movie (avatar in the theatres is an amazing experience but when movie was over my eyes were killing me). XD

Also i was told that 3D in 32 inch models is not that great and that specially in the 32d6000 3D was kind of a disapointting experience...

I had the oportunity to get the new 32 inch es6100 but i did not like the look of it (and except for the wifi and the web browser it seemed pretty much the same as the d6000).

So if anyone can help, i would really love to know the diferences between image quality and motion rate between these two models and if should i stick with the bigger or the smaller with more 100hz more...

Most of all i want great picture quality combined with a reat tv to play games like Call of Duty or Fifa...

For now i am leaning towards the 37D5500... Let me now if i am making the right choice please...

Thank you...

Any refresh rates other than 60 Hz is done with software it doesn't matter who the manufacturer or model.
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post #157 of 171 Old 05-01-2012, 04:27 AM
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If that so....Wich one would you get in this case RollTide? Wich one fo you think is more Worth it? The difference between each other is not that big?

PS: As i am thinking of buying the D5500 can anyone advise in how to calibrate the picture settings in order to get the best performance not also in tv (for now i am getting sd signal) and in games? I like vivid colors but i dont´to see everything look like candy either... If anyone is patient enough, i would be very very thankfull if anyone could help me in this matter...

Thank you...
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post #158 of 171 Old 05-05-2012, 05:58 PM
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Edit: I see somehow I ended up on the wrong thread since mine is a UNXXEH5000 not UNXXD5000. Hopefully you will find this post somewhat useful anyway.

I find myself wishing I read to the end of this thread before purchasing this unit because I am having the same problems others are with image quality. However after some testing, digging around, and playing with plenty of settings, I am much more happy with the TV and I don't think I'll feel the need to return it for a different model. Here are some hints from my personal experiences.

I have the following video sources:
  • DISH VIP612 DVR which outputs in 1080i or 720p over HDMI, or 1080p for certain PPV programming.
  • A PC with a DVI output (running 1080p signal) and DVI-HDMI adapter.

First, for those having contrast/color problems the first thing I would recommend is to turn Dynamic Contrast: Off. This fixed most problems I was having with washed out brights, way-too-dark shadows and some color saturation issues.

Also, if you are having image quality issues that appear to be like compression artifacts, this can be completely fixed if you are using a progressive source (720p, 1080p) by setting the Input > Edit Name > HDMI1/DVI to PC. If you are using a progressive source you will actually see the display reset and it's pretty apparent you are in 1:1 pixel mode. However this fix will NOT work if you are using an interlaced source (ie, 1080i).

For interlaced sources I haven't found a way to get 1:1 mode however if you download the new 1008 firmware (the unit I received from Newegg shipped with 1006) I have found the output image is much more acceptable, although not perfect. Here is the firmware download page: http://www.samsung.com/us/support/ow...UN46EH5000FXZA

My theory about why the 1:1 mode doesn't work for interlaced sources is that the 1:1 mode bypasses the chip which deinterlaces the image since the display is probably progressive scan only.

Any feedback on this is very welcome...I haven't made very many posts on this forum.
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post #159 of 171 Old 08-21-2012, 02:38 AM
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I have a UA40D5003BR for some time now, but was pretty unhappy with it since day 1. It is extremely bright compared to my 40A550 and could never quite get the colour settings right. Over the weekend I connected my PC to it and the picture was stretched (chopped off) along the sides in 16:9 mode on 1920x1080 resolution. I fiddled everywhere, but was unable to solve the problem. The closest I could get to fit everything into the screen was to use "Screen Fit", but then I still did not have 1:1 pixel mapping, but badly distorted text (compared to a Samsung 24'' monitor running at the same time via an HDMI splitter connected to the DVI output of the ATI video card in my PC running Windows XP without cleartype / font smoothing issues).

After Googling a bit I stumbled upon this thread where I've learned about the “INPUT RENAME TO PC” option - I'll definitely try that when I get home tonight.

Does anyone have any suggestions to improve the issues with the extreme brightness of the display - I have the backlight set to its lowest (I think 0 or 1) setting, power saving to MAX, brightness to its lowest, but the screen still glows blue when darker scenes or no picture is displayed - it drives me insane. Then I don't even want to talk about the clouding (lighter areas on the (blue-ish) screen - that looks terrible. Some people here and in other threads mentioned the service menu, but I was unable to get details as to how to enter the service menu - I was hoping that I could adjust the backlight down even more by using options in the service menu.

What about firmware updates? I Googled and tried the Samsung websites, but could not find anything useful for this model. The only firmware-related info I could found was ways to change the model of your TV to enable movie playback via USB, but that disabled the front-panel controls on the TV and I'm in any case not interested in movie-playback via USB - that is what my MEDE8ER is used for.smile.gif

Any help would be greatly appreciated.smile.gif
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post #160 of 171 Old 08-21-2012, 03:06 AM
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You need to connect to the HDMI port 1 and to rename input label to PC mode, also you need to set 16:9 when you are in PC mode, and only in that mode you would get as close to 1:1, because x5000 were mostly without 1:1 you could call it 1:1.5(half pixel shifted)
You need to write in this thread every settings from the picture options including eco, advanced and picture options.
Regarding back-light its shouldn't be at 0 or 1 it should be at 10-12, you need to lower brightness to values from 32-41 contrast from 78-82, you need to set standard mode instead of dynamic also you need to disable dynamic contrast in advanced settings, gamma should be 0, hdmi black level should be at normal in picture options.

But you need to set firstly input label to PC! Its working only on HDMI 1!!!!
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post #161 of 171 Old 08-21-2012, 05:18 AM
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next month is the month i will bring my TV back to the store. It is seven months old then, and the banding has gotten worse, but not that much.... I hope eventually i will get an new set....
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post #162 of 171 Old 08-21-2012, 07:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loopdemack View Post

You need to connect to the HDMI port 1 and to rename input label to PC mode, also you need to set 16:9 when you are in PC mode, and only in that mode you would get as close to 1:1, because x5000 were mostly without 1:1 you could call it 1:1.5(half pixel shifted)
You need to write in this thread every settings from the picture options including eco, advanced and picture options.
Regarding back-light its shouldn't be at 0 or 1 it should be at 10-12, you need to lower brightness to values from 32-41 contrast from 78-82, you need to set standard mode instead of dynamic also you need to disable dynamic contrast in advanced settings, gamma should be 0, hdmi black level should be at normal in picture options.
But you need to set firstly input label to PC! Its working only on HDMI 1!!!!

The 5003 only has one HDMI port - my Yamaha RXV-1065 handles the input selection and HDMI switching, I will change/rename the HDMI input to PC tonight.

Standard mode is on, dynamic off - I'll check the rest of the settings, if I remember correctly backlight goes from 0 or 1 to 8 or 10 - if I adjust it to a higher setting than minimum, the blue glim is worse. I'll fiddle tonight and write down all the settings and post tomorrow again.

Thanks
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post #163 of 171 Old 08-21-2012, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superdiy View Post

The 5003 only has one HDMI port - my Yamaha RXV-1065 handles the input selection and HDMI switching, I will change/rename the HDMI input to PC tonight.
Standard mode is on, dynamic off - I'll check the rest of the settings, if I remember correctly backlight goes from 0 or 1 to 8 or 10 - if I adjust it to a higher setting than minimum, the blue glim is worse. I'll fiddle tonight and write down all the settings and post tomorrow again.
Thanks

Ok your backlight goes to 10 then it means that optimum would be 5-6, but you would know that only after you set the brightness and contrast to a values that I told you.
There is a chance that you have very bad sample of 5003. I would suggest that you make few photos if you have solid digital cam.
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post #164 of 171 Old 08-21-2012, 08:20 AM
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i did not really rename it to pc, but choose that name in a list. So now it is HDMI pc port....
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post #165 of 171 Old 08-22-2012, 07:50 AM
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OK renamed/selected the HDMI port to PC which solved my 1:1 pixel mapping on 16:9. I then started to adjust everything, because as soon as I've changed the input to Pc all the brightness, backlight etc. settings changed. After configuring everything to my liking (except for the backlight which I've set to 0 on a scale of 0 to 10 - least blue glim), I changed the source on my AV amp to the MEDE8ER and then all the brightness etc. settings were different to what I've just configured it to. PLEASE NOTE - I have not selected a different input on the TV - the TV only has 1 x HDMI, I changed the input on the AV amp.

After some investigation I noticed that the PC is configured to output 1920 x 1080 (1080p) @ 60Hz while the MEDE8ER is configured to output 1080p @ 50Hz and the best of this is that you can set most of the settings on the TV to different values for the different refresh rates. As soon as I change the MEDE8ER to output 1080p @ 60Hz (the same as the PC) and I go into the settings menu on the TV I se the same option for both PC and MEDE8ER. In other words, according to my own testing and experience the TV can be configured for the different devices connected to its single HDMI input, if each device has a different output (1080p @ 50Hz / 1080p @ 60Hz / maybe others as well).

The options in the different input configurations in my case (1080p @ 50Hz and 60Hz) were not all available - some option were greyed-out on 50Hz and other were greyed-out on 60Hz. Here are all my final settings:
Option | 1080p @ 50Hz | 1080p @ 60Hz
Mode | Standard | Movie
Backlight | 0 | 0
Contrast | 83 | 92
Brightness | 35 | 43
Sharpness | 50 | greyed-out
Colour | 50 | greyed-out
Tint G/R | 50 | greyed-out
Black Tone | Darker | greyed-out
Dynamic Contrast | Off | greyed-out
Gamma | 0 | +1
Colour Space | Auto | greyed-out
White Balance | Default | Default
Flesh Tone | 0 | greyed-out
Edge Enhancement | ON | greyed-out
Colour Tone | Normal | Warm 2
Size | 16:9 | 16:9
Digital Noise Filter | Auto | greyed-out
HDMI Black Level | greyed-out | Normal
Film Mode | greyed-out | greyed-out

That is it...
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post #166 of 171 Old 08-28-2012, 06:39 PM
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did anyone ever calibrate one of these? my u22 looks decent when watching TV, but I know it could probably be better
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post #167 of 171 Old 09-10-2012, 03:15 PM
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Hello all,

Thank you to everyone who has posted such great information about this range of Samsung TV, it makes for good reading!!

I own the ued5000 and wander if someone can help with an issue im having.

I brought my TV in the UK and it is labeled as 240v on the back.

I have read anecdotal evidence online that many newer TV's are actually dual voltage 110v-240v inside, but are labeled as single voltage for the domestic market. (I would reference these sites but I looked into some time ago and it wasnt specific to Samsung either way).

The reason Im asking is I've actually just moved to Canada from the UK and have taken the TV with me.

I contacted Samsung and asked them specifically what the PSU inside the TV is rated for, and they keep coming back with a generic "we reccomend you use the TV in a 240v enviroment" statement.

I'm actually about to open it up tonight to see if I can get the inforamtion from the relevant board, but came across this thread so thought I would ask the question here.

I've had a quick look round the forums to ensure this post is in the right place, hopefully it is.

Any responses would be very much appreciated.

Many thanks,


Taj.
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post #168 of 171 Old 11-01-2012, 01:27 AM
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I have a UA40D5000 I had problems with the USB update thing they changed the board...now it says tv name UA40D5030 ? whats the diff

and I notice under colour options warm 1 and warm 2 is greyed out

I am having huge issues with updating the firmware.. blank usb.. unzip the folder.. named: firmware. in there theres 2 other folders.. doesnt work
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post #169 of 171 Old 02-05-2013, 06:45 AM
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So i finaly did it, i made the call. Will get a replacement screen (panel only) and he thinks the flickering issue is normal.... Wel not normal, but that samsung will say its the limitation of the beast!
http://www.avforums.com/forums/xbox-360-hardware/1575220-strange-brightness-flicker-when-gaming-xbox-360-samsung-hd-led-tv.html
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post #170 of 171 Old 03-10-2013, 11:00 AM
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And so they put in the new screen, the picture is clean, but now the screen is suffering from horrible ghosting, ....
What could be the cause of this? I mean, i am having it with fast moving pictures, but also, with very real slow moving pictures.... I can clearly see it when i am playing videogames.... Cause i can adjust the speed of movements.... OMG, this wasn't so bad the first time.... Could it be, because its no a real panel (the screen) of what it should be?
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post #171 of 171 Old 07-02-2013, 04:06 PM
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We have a UN 22 D5003, it is hardly ever used and when my father was flipping channels the screen just went black. After unplugging it and plugging it in we still get no picture on the screen, just the red power button pulsates in and out. Any idea what this could be? I saw where some where saying it looks like a power supply issue.
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