The Official Sony EX720 Owner's Thread - Page 4 - AVS Forum
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post #91 of 2044 Old 05-27-2011, 03:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bytehoven View Post

Power saving during 3D. Try it and report.

Have you tried lowering the brightness, and playing with the Black Level and Advance Contrast?

Well, I have an image stored on my PS3 hard drive and I use it as a gauge if my Brightness is too low. Right now max I can only afford to set it at 51 (or a tolerable 50), because anything lower will crush blacks. (BTW, what's your BR player?)

Will try when I get home. Just sucks that I have to set the Power Saving back and forth (it's a universal setting, not relative to the picture mode) when viewing 3D. Maybe Medium ACE and other advanced options will do the trick.

I have no gripes with the 3D. But the black level with bright maxness is just not favorable. (A tint of blue) Will White Balance help with it? I know, it's a longshot.
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post #92 of 2044 Old 05-27-2011, 07:32 AM
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My 3D Blu-Ray is the Panny 100. You should also try Gamma +1, +2, Max in combination with lowering brightness.

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post #93 of 2044 Old 05-27-2011, 07:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaliCool View Post


I have no gripes with the 3D. But the black level with bright maxness is just not favorable. (A tint of blue) Will White Balance help with it? I know, it's a longshot.

No, the white balance will not help. This blue tint to the blacks is typical of Sony's LCD TVs.

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post #94 of 2044 Old 05-27-2011, 08:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaliCool View Post

I have no gripes with the 3D. But the black level with bright maxness is just not favorable. (A tint of blue) Will White Balance help with it? I know, it's a longshot.

yes
especially when lowering blue-bias
you will then need to bump brightness up a couple of notches
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post #95 of 2044 Old 05-27-2011, 10:09 AM
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but is the "flashlighting problem" a hardware or software issue ?
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post #96 of 2044 Old 05-27-2011, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OTAlucard View Post

but is the "flashlighting problem" a hardware or software issue ?

Pure hardware.

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post #97 of 2044 Old 05-27-2011, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigerriot View Post

Pure hardware.

does anybody or could anybody take a picture of the problem in question ?

i haven't seen any problems with mine yet but i don't know what to look for
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post #98 of 2044 Old 05-27-2011, 07:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, Alucard. Basically what you should do is turn off all the lights in your room. Set your TV's backlight at MAX and then look at an image (or a scene) that has a black background. Look at all four corners of your TV and you will see that there's some sort of "flash light" there. If you don't have it then lucky you. I actually only noticed mine when I tested and really looked for it but before that it hasn't actually bothered me.

Still experimenting with the settings.
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post #99 of 2044 Old 05-28-2011, 11:48 PM
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I have been checking out the Motionflow settings... Has anyone been able to spot the benefits from using the "Clear" modes instead of the Standard/Smooth ones? Are there any specific situations when the Clear mode performs better?
Doesn't seem to be much of a difference to me so far, except for the drop in backlighting.
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post #100 of 2044 Old 05-29-2011, 01:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surridge View Post
I have been checking out the Motionflow settings... Has anyone been able to spot the benefits from using the "Clear" modes instead of the Standard/Smooth ones? Are there any specific situations when the Clear mode performs better?
Doesn't seem to be much of a difference to me so far, except for the drop in backlighting.
True, Surridge.

I sat with my TV on Clear (didn't bother switching to Clear Plus) and I didn't notice any improvement over Standard. If anything, it just produced a dimmer picture due to the drop of backlighting. I wouldn't suggest using Clear and Clear Plus to anyone as of now. (Tried it for more than a week)

You're better off with Standard/Smooth. (The latter has a more aggressive motionflow approach)
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post #101 of 2044 Old 05-29-2011, 03:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surridge View Post

I have been checking out the Motionflow settings... Has anyone been able to spot the benefits from using the "Clear" modes instead of the Standard/Smooth ones? Are there any specific situations when the Clear mode performs better?
Doesn't seem to be much of a difference to me so far, except for the drop in backlighting.

If you read HDtvtest.co.uk review of the EX720,they say that changing from clear to clear plus doesn't do anything except reduce the brightness.

They also say that clear mode is enough to get 1080lines of motion resolution without any soap opera effect and also has no judder.
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post #102 of 2044 Old 05-29-2011, 08:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Can you post their calibration settings on this page for the benefit of all? (It's in their Facebook page) Will do so in a couple of days (FB blocked in my remote island work, lol!) so if you beat me to it I'd be more than glad. :-)
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post #103 of 2044 Old 05-29-2011, 09:27 AM
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Their 3D review seems a bit off... at least not really similar to my experiences. They mention that enabling Motionflow during 3D playback introduces some judder. I have no issues with this - got a perfect smooth picture. One thing I did notice though - it seems Motionflow actually makes crosstalk more pronounced in certain cases, so it can be a good idea to leave it off anyway.

Although having it on helps quite a bit during faster scenes in 3D.

Edit: There is a link in the comments to the settings on FB. Worked without log in, thankfully.

2D settings:

Scene/Picture: Cinema/Cinema1
Backlight: 9
Contrast: 90
Brightness: 50
Colour: 50
Hue: 0
C.Temp: Warm2
Sharpness: 50
NR: Off
MPEG NR: Off
Dot NR: Off, but Auto for TV tuner input and old TV shows
MF: Clear
Film Mode: Auto2

Advanced

All Off, Gamma 0
Detail Enhancer: Your choice, good for some blurry SD material
White Balance -3 -1 0 -2 -1 -2
___________________________
3D

All same, except:

Backlight: Max
Contrast: Max
Color: 48
MF: Off

White Balance: 0 -2 -2 0 0 -1

No mention of the Detail Enhancer
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post #104 of 2044 Old 05-29-2011, 08:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Surridge!

Had time last night with the set, watched Walking Dead Season 1 BR. Had Motionflow at Standard and I'm now noticing more than ever the vertical lines (sometimes horizontal) when the camera's panning. Before, it wasn't really evident but I don't know why this time it irritated me. I know Sharpness at 50 has nothing to do with it.

P.S. You personally use those settings? It's good by the way, but I have yet to align myself with the Warm 2 groupie and Backlight seems too high. (Will reveal those ugly fangs of flash lighting along with the not-so-dark tint of the set)

P.S.S. Everyone. What's your setting with the LIGHT SENSOR? It seems like on default, it's ON so I wonder if those professional websites have them on or off? Having it OFF at Backlight 2 seems reasonable enough.
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post #105 of 2044 Old 05-30-2011, 07:42 AM
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I am still messing around with my own settings - have quite a few different sets depending on the content. Some have more post processing, some are "clean". Black corrector, motionflow, sharpness and detail enhancer are the "extra" settings I play around with. I have found that Contrast Enhancer tends to wash out the colors (especially noticeable on the faces) at times, even on the low settings, so I only use it in some games so far.
I did try their white balance settings though.

Personally, I don't like the Warm2 option (I stick with Warm1 for movies and Neutral for games and 3D), so those white balance settings won't give me the best result I assume (White Balance settings are global by the way, and are tied to color temperature - meaning you can switch between 4 different profiles by changing the color temperature). But they did look good enough with Warm1. Have to check with more varied content.

As for the Light sensor.. yeah it's usually on by default, but the first thing I did was disable all those power saving features when I got the TV. When I saw their high backlight settings I thought they might have left it on as well. But in any case, my backlight is usually 6-8 depending on the content. Don't like the picture too dim
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post #106 of 2044 Old 05-30-2011, 04:58 PM
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Will receive my replacement set on Wednesday! Hopefully the new set will have good uniformity.

And I had some complaints regarding 3D earlier, however after discovering some 3D settings (notably the 3D glasses brightness) and watching Coraline in 3D, I can say I'm pretty satisfied. Playing GT5 with a good 3D setting is great too, especially the rain levels.
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post #107 of 2044 Old 05-31-2011, 05:11 AM - Thread Starter
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N/m.
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post #108 of 2044 Old 05-31-2011, 09:16 AM
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Do any of these come with the USB adapter for WIFI? On the site it says some may be included but does not specify.

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post #109 of 2044 Old 05-31-2011, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devilbones View Post

Do any of these come with the USB adapter for WIFI? On the site it says some may be included but does not specify.

The 723's (my understanding is that those are BestBuy exclusive-but i could be wrong on that) come with WIFI built-in while the 720's need an additional adapter which you have to busy separately.

I have been trolling this thread for a few weeks and and have decided to post my settings. I have had the 46EX720 since early April 2011. Earlier I had a Sony 46EX711 (same model as the 710 but with wifi dongle/adapter through Sams Club which had terrible flashlighting and was returned when I got the EX 720 for the same price.) I also had VIZIO XVT 423 before that but it died (literally- the picture died- and it had to have been something major like the backlight from my conversation with Vizio Service Reps) so that went back as well.
Of the 3 models emtioned above, the 720 has by far the most superior Picture quality and reproduction of colors. I had a chance to have all three for over a month so had a chance to play with the settings and tweak them to my liking. Have the TV hooked up to a Motorola HD Cable Box and a Nintendo Wii straight to the TV and a PS3(used mostly for Blu-Ray and some games) through the Sony HT-CT 350 Soundbar (to get DTS from Blu-Rays)
The room has a lot of natural light during the day so a matte/ semi matte screen was a big factor for me. I do not have different settings for night and day but do change the scene options according to the programming I watch.
Normal Tv is under the General Mode, use Sports for Sports, Game- Original for Video Games and Cinema 1 for Movies.
I have only watched the Alice in Wonderland 3D Blu-ray once and was impressed with it (maybe since I did not buy the TV for 3D and because I saw the movie in 3D and was not impressed with it then.) I do have the 2010 glasses but the movie still looked a LOT better in 3D on this TV than in the theater.

Settings(for everyday TV use):

Scene/Picture: General/Standard or Custom
Backlight: 3
Contrast: 90
Brightness: 50
Colour: 60
Hue: 0
C.Temp: Warm2
Sharpness: Min
NR: Off
MPEG NR: Off
Dot NR: Off,
MF: Off
Film Mode: Off

Advanced

All Off, or at 0

Everything stays the same as above except the things listed below for other programming
For Sports-
Scene- Sports
Color- Neutral
MotionFlow- Smooth

For Video games
Scene- Game Original

For Movies
Scene/ Picture- Movies/ Cinema 1
Film Mode: Auto 2

Overall, I could not have been happier with my purchase and am still getting used to playing with all the bells and whistles that the TV comes with. I really love the pairing of the PS3 and the Sony soundbar with the TV as I can turn them off and on at the same time instead of having to do each one separately. I can even control the menu and playback options on the PS3 with the TV remote. I think it is a great TV for everyday use and what most people would use it for. I am pretty sure that are better and worse TV's out there but for my needs I think this fit the bill just right and is decent enough for its price point.
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post #110 of 2044 Old 06-01-2011, 03:15 AM - Thread Starter
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mrk829, thanks for posting your settings! I'm glad that like me, you're satisfied with the set. I think this will keep me happy for a while.

I'm happy enough that the terrible flashlighting on the bottom left (and right) corners of my TV won't bother me. I've set LIGHT SENSOR at Off and the fangs of my set appeared, was initially disappointed but I figured that I was converted to CNET's "Dim Picture Club!". Sure, it's not as bright as most settings but I'll take personal enjoyment over pleasing casual viewers.

With that, I've finally settled with regards to the settings. (Used Bytehoven's as a base) You might want to check his settings except that I can't watch with Brightness at 47 or even 48. Too much loss of black details.

Plus I've been meaning to ask. What's the difference between Color at 50 or Color at 40 with Live Color on?
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post #111 of 2044 Old 06-01-2011, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaliCool View Post

Well, Alucard. Basically what you should do is turn off all the lights in your room. Set your TV's backlight at MAX and then look at an image (or a scene) that has a black background. Look at all four corners of your TV and you will see that there's some sort of "flash light" there. If you don't have it then lucky you. I actually only noticed mine when I tested and really looked for it but before that it hasn't actually bothered me.

Still experimenting with the settings.

i was messing with the settings and had a dark scene and it did it i think every one of them does it but it doesn't bother me that bad
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post #112 of 2044 Old 06-01-2011, 11:39 AM
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Sony is going to replace my defective green blob 2007 model KDS60a2020. They have offered me these tv's.

KDL40EX720 = $50 + tax

KDL46BX421 = FREE

KDL55EX710 = $250 + tax

I complained because I have the 60" SXRD. They guy transferred me to another person who then offered the KDL60EX720 for $950 + tax.

Although the picture is definitely green on my SXRD, you can adjust it on the settings to make it watchable. If I set it to cool mode, turn green bias and gains all the way down, set the Hue to -5 and adjust the color to about 38-42, I still get a pretty good picture although it still has a slight green overtone. So, in my case, I can still use the SXRD for some time to come, it just wont be perfect or close too it like it once was. The 60"EX720 seems like the most bang for buck. The 46" is free but only list for $950 while the 60" list for about $2400-2700 which would be $1400-1700 free for me. The 55" might truly be the best deal because it list for 2 grand and my part would be up to $1750 free. Thoughts, opinions?

Living on the FRINGE + Locking OTA locals......Can get very FRUSTRATING at times!
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post #113 of 2044 Old 06-01-2011, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arkyman View Post

Sony is going to replace my defective green blob 2007 model KDS60a2020. They have offered me these tv's.

KDL40EX720 = $50 + tax

KDL46BX421 = FREE

KDL55EX710 = $250 + tax

I complained because I have the 60" SXRD. They guy transferred me to another person who then offered the KDL60EX720 for $950 + tax.

Although the picture is definitely green on my SXRD, you can adjust it on the settings to make it watchable. If I set it to cool mode, turn green bias and gains all the way down, set the Hue to -5 and adjust the color to about 38-42, I still get a pretty good picture although it still has a slight green overtone. So, in my case, I can still use the SXRD for some time to come, it just wont be perfect or close too it like it once was. The 60"EX720 seems like the most bang for buck. The 46" is free but only list for $950 while the 60" list for about $2400-2700 which would be $1400-1700 free for me. The 55" might truly be the best deal because it list for 2 grand and my part would be up to $1750 free. Thoughts, opinions?

from what i understand if you don't like the deal you are offered right now you can wait 7 days and call back again and they will give you a different set of deals

personally i think the KDL55EX710 is the best deal it just doesn't have 3d lol who needs that anyways

i got the 47 inch ex720 in trade with the same tv you have due to the green blob
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post #114 of 2044 Old 06-01-2011, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arkyman View Post

Sony is going to replace my defective green blob 2007 model KDS60a2020. They have offered me these tv's.

KDL40EX720 = $50 + tax

KDL46BX421 = FREE

KDL55EX710 = $250 + tax

I complained because I have the 60" SXRD. They guy transferred me to another person who then offered the KDL60EX720 for $950 + tax.

Although the picture is definitely green on my SXRD, you can adjust it on the settings to make it watchable. If I set it to cool mode, turn green bias and gains all the way down, set the Hue to -5 and adjust the color to about 38-42, I still get a pretty good picture although it still has a slight green overtone. So, in my case, I can still use the SXRD for some time to come, it just wont be perfect or close too it like it once was. The 60"EX720 seems like the most bang for buck. The 46" is free but only list for $950 while the 60" list for about $2400-2700 which would be $1400-1700 free for me. The 55" might truly be the best deal because it list for 2 grand and my part would be up to $1750 free. Thoughts, opinions?

Just call them back and complain saying you need a 60" replacement. They should transfer you to a higher level of customer service that will give you that option, even though they already gave you 3 choices. I did it, and they gave me the 60EX720. But it'll be a couple hundred more than the 55"
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post #115 of 2044 Old 06-01-2011, 10:41 PM
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The 55" does seem like the best deal, but, I just dont know if I can adjust to a 55" screen after having the 60" for so long. I dropped from the Mits CRT 65" in 2007 to the Sony SXRD 60" and there was a huge difference in the screens side by side. However, the 65 was always a bit big and the 60 was almost perfect for my living room. Now it seems the 55 might leave me wanting for more screen. Although I hate to dish out $1,016, I may not have much of a choice if I want to continue on with a 60" tv.

Living on the FRINGE + Locking OTA locals......Can get very FRUSTRATING at times!
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post #116 of 2044 Old 06-02-2011, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arkyman View Post
The 55" does seem like the best deal, but, I just dont know if I can adjust to a 55" screen after having the 60" for so long. I dropped from the Mits CRT 65" in 2007 to the Sony SXRD 60" and there was a huge difference in the screens side by side. However, the 65 was always a bit big and the 60 was almost perfect for my living room. Now it seems the 55 might leave me wanting for more screen. Although I hate to dish out $1,016, I may not have much of a choice if I want to continue on with a 60" tv.
the women tell me that size doesn't matter haha

its your money spend it how you see fit
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post #117 of 2044 Old 06-02-2011, 07:23 PM
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Has anyone mounted the 55EX720 on the wall, yet? What mount did you use? How is it working?
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post #118 of 2044 Old 06-03-2011, 12:51 PM
 
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I got one of these thru an SXRD exchange with Sony and I really love it. I found this thread when searching the bright corners issue (you guys call it flashlighting?) I have noticed, but it seems this is common with LCDs lately. There are two rather bright corners at the bottom of the screen that are visible against black but not much else. I am waiting on some 2011 3D glasses so I can't comment on 3D, but the picture is great. I notice many of you like the auto post processing stuff, which I hate. Here is my current setup for Xbox 360 1080P HDMI using the TV Calibration indie game (not great but helpful little app):

Scene: Game-Original
Backlight: 6 (slowly lowering this to reduce flashlighting)
Pic: MAX
Brightness: 50
Color: 54
Color Temp: Neutral
All other features OFF, Gamma default, i/p conversion to Speed (default- useless for progressive signals)
In ECO menu in main preferences, turn off power saving and all auto adjustment crap

Games look great. Can't wait to see Crysis in 3D.

For TV I use a similar setup using scene General-Custom, and I have i/p conversion set to Quality (slight enhance to 1080i hdmi signal from fios box, i/p conversion only works on interlaced signals, it choose between rendering speed and rendering quality).
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post #119 of 2044 Old 06-03-2011, 01:29 PM
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Although I never would have bought this model tv if it wasn't for the exchange program, I can say now I am very impressed by this particular model. At Cnet the television only got a 3 out of 5 score but many things impress me in the review (accurate colors, 1080p/24, 3D capable, and its Video processing). It also beats the Panasonic ST30 in 3 important areas, which was going to be the TV I bought if it wasn't for this exchange program.

Gamertag: Elder Sasquatch
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post #120 of 2044 Old 06-04-2011, 01:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I got one of these thru an SXRD exchange with Sony and I really love it. I found this thread when searching the bright corners issue (you guys call it flashlighting?) I have noticed, but it seems this is common with LCDs lately. There are two rather bright corners at the bottom of the screen that are visible against black but not much else. I am waiting on some 2011 3D glasses so I can't comment on 3D, but the picture is great. I notice many of you like the auto post processing stuff, which I hate. Here is my current setup for Xbox 360 1080P HDMI using the TV Calibration indie game (not great but helpful little app):

Scene: Game-Original
Backlight: 6 (slowly lowering this to reduce flashlighting)
Pic: MAX
Brightness: 50
Color: 54
Color Temp: Neutral
All other features OFF, Gamma default, i/p conversion to Speed (default- useless for progressive signals)
In ECO menu in main preferences, turn off power saving and all auto adjustment crap

Games look great. Can't wait to see Crysis in 3D.

For TV I use a similar setup using scene General-Custom, and I have i/p conversion set to Quality (slight enhance to 1080i hdmi signal from fios box, i/p conversion only works on interlaced signals, it choose between rendering speed and rendering quality).

Hello Kevin! Thanks for sharing your settings! I'm just wondering what the i/p conversion is for? This is the first set that I've had with such extensive settings and I have yet to learn all their functions.

I'm telling you right now you won't be disappointed in Crysis 3D. I only have two games with 3D capabilities (NBA and Crysis) and the former really sucks in terms of framerate but the latter's really solid. I found no dip in graphics quality when in 3D.
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