Official Samsung UNXXD6400/6420 Owners' Thread - Page 3 - AVS Forum
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post #61 of 120 Old 01-05-2012, 04:09 AM
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Someone gave me a 46" 6420 as a Christmas present. I assumed that it must have been a cheap model (or at least on sale for a great price) for it to be given to me as a gift, but so far, it's a nice TV. I haven't looked to see how much they sell for. My dad has a couple Samsung LEDs in his house, and those two are my only other exposure to the technology. Before reading anything about them, I found that the dimming function was very pronounced on the set in his kitchen, but I never noticed it on the set he has on his screened in porch. I actually spent about an hour going through the menu trying to figure out how to disable it (I figured it was some kind of dynamic "enhancement" or power saving function. Glad you guys cleared that up for me). I set the shadow detail to +2 a couple hours after unboxing mine (just calibrating by eye, no knowledge of what I was doing) and for that reason or whatever other, I haven't noticed any dimming on my set. I've been using it as the display for my Mac Mini, watching 1080p Blu Ray rips, 720p NTSC television, and SD NTSC and PAL television. Also a few Brit movies, which I assume were ripped from a PAL format, but I don't know. I worked with professional home theaters installers about a decade ago (I'm not certified or anything, just worked with a few guys who were), and have been exposed to lots of properly calibrated, high-end displays. I'm very critical of most pictures I come across. Haven't had much contact with the HT scene in years, though, and am definitely out of touch on the new technologies. I just watched my first two 3D movies at Thanksgiving (Avatar and Toy Story 3). Watched those on some high-end Panasonic plasma my dad has. That Panasonic (I have no idea about model numbers, I had to find my user manual to figure out what model I had when I logged onto the forum) is one of the best flat panel displays I've seen. Tons of depth and texture in the 2D images. I don't know enough about 3D to comment on that aspect. So I've been comparing the Samsung to that picture as I break it in. I assume there's probably a few thousand dollar price difference between them.

Anyway, the Samsung has a pleasant picture, in my opinion. I do feel like alot of black textures (clothing) are being crushed, but that's always been an issue with flat panels aside from those Pioneer models a few years ago (as far as I know...again I'm out of touch). The colors (particularly skin tones) looked better than average to my eyes after just a few minutes of tweaking by eye on a movie. Occasionally I feel like the image becomes too artificially sharp, even with the Sharpness on 0. I noticed this on my dad's Samsung in a huge way when I saw my sister playing her XBOX on it. Using it as a computer display with tons and tons of text, that's probably much more apparent to me than in most situations. Messed around with the contrast and brightness (after dropping the sharpness) and it's looking good enough at the moment. I spend most of my time switching around the LED motion settings, as I find it ghosts alot when watching less-than-great 1080p films. Better 1080p formats are mostly alright (I still notice ghosting much more frequently than I'd like, however, but I guess that's the LED technology in general). I played around with the 2D to 3D conversion, and it was horrible. I'm not enough of a 3D enthusiast to have my own player or 3D films. The glasses are like a third of the price of the Panasonic ones my dad has, though, which is a plus. Although after reading this thread, I now understand why they're so much cheaper.

I have AVIA and DVE Blu-Rays, but I haven't used them to calibrate yet. My dad also offered me his Disney calibration disc (hadn't heard of that before), so I'll try that as well. My calibrations thus far are just general adjustments made at my discretion while viewing. I noticed the set has a test pattern built into it, which is nice (unless it turns out to be locked when I try to use it...which I haven't tried yet). The settings I've been using for the last week or so are almost identical to the two posted in this thread. I do have Sharpness at 0, however. That's the major difference. I had turned off the LED motion Plus in the hopes of eliminating the ghosting, but after reading around the forum tonight, I've turned it back on. I use the Clear setting rather than Standard. I've used Smooth some as well. I honestly can't tell a huge difference between them yet. The Edge Enhancement definitely ruined the picture, in my opinion, so it was only tested for about twenty seconds. I was using a low contrast in the hopes of making the PC text a little easier on the eyes, but I followed the config link someone linked to earlier in this thread, and am using those settings now. The text and aliasing around icons and such isn't too bad. I was using Warm 1, but just switched to Warm 2 based on said config. I was using the "normal" HDMI black level, but just changed it to "low" for this new config. When my eyes get used to the new settings, I'll probably bump it up. I played around with the black level settings for awhile (dark, darker, darkest) but am still unsure about them. My natural instinct is too disable any "enhancements" like that, but I didn't hate the way it looked. Slightly more depth when viewing the first two Resident Evil films on Blu Ray. Haven't had enough time with the set yet to decide how much good or bad they do. I've got it turned off now. I'd say the biggest things to focus on out of the box is the sharpness. 1080p images are still very crisp and detailed with my current 0 setting (I still think maybe too sharp in some scenes). I was occasionally getting banding in black parts of the image, but I think that may have been caused by the line out on the Mac Mini. Running on a Geforce 470 PC with a mini-HDMI to HDMI connection now, I'm not noticing it. The colors occasionally seem inconsistent across the screen, but that may just be me.

Overall it's a nice set for watching 1080p films on. Standard def also looks great compared to the early flat panel sets I was used to back in the day. Lots of options. I don't know yet if that's a good or bad thing in this case. It's also crazy thin. That blew me away. Like a sci-fi movie prop.

EDIT: And just as a note, I haven't hooked the display up to a cable source nor a DVD or Blu Ray. I'm viewing with a "loaded" MPHC config on Windows, and VLC and Movist on the Mac.
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post #62 of 120 Old 01-06-2012, 05:29 PM
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An update...

Still using the config settings that were linked to earlier in the thread (not the ones actually posted in this thread), and have changed the HDMI black level to Low. This definitely seems preferable today (not sure what I was seeing yesterday) over normal. It looked darker and richer.

Installed the Nvidia 3DPlay on my PC. Attempted to use the Stereoscopic Player to watch a 3D clip with no success. The left and right images were about half an inch apart. I didn't research it or play around with it after that, so it may (probably) is just something I'm not doing right specific to that program.

Installed Modern Warfare 3 to test out the 3DPlay technology. Everything (as far as the Nvidia technology support goes) syncs up perfectly with this TV model as far as I can tell and the setup was easy and fast. Loaded the game, got a message telling me that 1920x1080 wasn't supported for 3D. This confirms what I read earlier in this thread about this TV not supporting 1080p 3d output. I set the display to 1280x720, the 3DPlay kicked in, the TV recognized it, turned on the 3d glasses that came with my TV, and tada. 3D was working. Pretty well, too. No problems in the game display. Picture is smooth and I haven't noticed any king of artifacting or ghosting or other 3D picture-related issues. I'm impressed. It would have been nice to have the 3D at 1080p, but I'll take what I got.

As far as gaming in general on this display... I don't play console games, and am not sure if the lag others have reported has something to do with console gaming more than PC gaming, but I haven't noticed any. It actually seems slightly more responsive than the old Visio 32" LCD I played MW2 and BO on. I'm using a Razer Mamba mouse at 4000DPI and a Geforce 470 for the games...
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post #63 of 120 Old 01-06-2012, 10:01 PM
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Has anyone setup this TV with a surround system by using a receiver ? I am using the sound cables that came with it and choosing "external speakers" from the menu but I cannot get any sound!
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post #64 of 120 Old 01-11-2012, 05:34 AM
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I've been using the calibration settings (based on standard mode, not movie mode) in this thread while watching 720p movies streamed through the smart hub. One problem I have is night/dark scenes. It seems to get really chunky/grainy/pixel y and it really bothers me. It just looks terrible. Does anyone have any advice or tweaks they did to make the night/dark scenes look better? I know 720p isnt 1080p.. but the day time scenes always look fantastic, where the dark scenes always look terrible.

Any advice is appreciated.
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post #65 of 120 Old 01-12-2012, 12:22 AM
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my D6400 has a shiny acryllic piece of plastic which encases the nice sleek .5 inch graphite black bezel. has any1 ever tried taking it off? it would be so much more sleek looking without it, + i'm tired of it reflecting my bias lighting from behind the set.
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post #66 of 120 Old 01-13-2012, 12:33 AM
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Here's a tip for connecting your Samsung TV to your wireless network/internet for cheap!

There's some talk on Amazon reviews about using the Rosewill RNX-N1 Wireless-N 2.0 USB Dongle for $30






or the Rosewill RNX-N2X IEEE 802.11b/g/n USB2.0 Wireless-N 2.0 Dongle for $40,






instead of the overpriced Samsung proprietary Linkstick adapter (WIS09ABGN) for $80 or more.






That's great, I was just about to buy one for my 6420, but then I remembered I had a recently purchased Monoprice USB Wireless Lan 802.11N High Power Adapter w/ 2 Antenna - 2T2R (300Mbps) which got rave reviews on their site for range and connectivity, and it struck me it looks a lot like the above Rosewill RNX-N2X.





Could it be based on the same Ralink RT2870+RT2820 chipset? I took a shot and plugged it in, and lo and behold, it worked. The TV recognized it right away as a Samsung wireless USB dongle, and I was up and running right away.

The best parts?
  1. Excellent connectivity and range; even if it didn't work for my TV it would still be a great piece of kit to have for hooking up a computer.
  2. $18
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post #67 of 120 Old 01-20-2012, 12:09 PM
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update...............

Samsung delivery guys just dropped off my 7000 & it's a H303! Build date Jan 2012! I let them keep the bogus 4-legged monstrosity & put my D6400 stand on instead. Looks really tight! I gotta run to the store, but when i get back i'll fire it up & hopefully no flashlighting or too much clouding or vertical banding. i'll keep u posted................

btw: this was a free upgrade, they replaced my falsely advertised "Full 3d" 55D6400 panel after months of haggling with them.

Thank u Samsung for making good on this!
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post #68 of 120 Old 01-20-2012, 06:41 PM
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leftyguitar: I'm very interested in having my unit exchanged as well. Can you tell me the steps you went through to get a replacement? Or link me to relevant threads if they exist.

Thanks in advance.
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post #69 of 120 Old 01-22-2012, 04:48 AM
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Hey guys, I just passed by to ask a question. I got this tv yesterday and plugged in everything. After about 20 mins of using it I decided to test out the 3D by converting the 2D image of the tv signal. After seeing about 2 mins my tv went to a black screen and I can no longer see anything . I have tried turning off and on the tv pressing different buttons on the controller but nothing, no display. Any idea?

Thanks.

UPDATE: I just checked and I can hear what's on the TV but the screen is blank. What appears to be working is the backlight since I see the screen lit up but no display just sound from the source.
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post #70 of 120 Old 01-22-2012, 07:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kainofsouls View Post

Hey guys, I just passed by to ask a question. I got this tv yesterday and plugged in everything. After about 20 mins of using it I decided to test out the 3D by converting the 2D image of the tv signal. After seeing about 2 mins my tv went to a black screen and I can no longer see anything . I have tried turning off and on the tv pressing different buttons on the controller but nothing, no display. Any idea?

Thanks.

UPDATE: I just checked and I can hear what's on the TV but the screen is blank. What appears to be working is the backlight since I see the screen lit up but no display just sound from the source.

Try unplugging it for 5 minutes. Hope that works.
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post #71 of 120 Old 01-27-2012, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kainofsouls View Post

Hey guys, I just passed by to ask a question. I got this tv yesterday and plugged in everything. After about 20 mins of using it I decided to test out the 3D by converting the 2D image of the tv signal. After seeing about 2 mins my tv went to a black screen and I can no longer see anything . I have tried turning off and on the tv pressing different buttons on the controller but nothing, no display. Any idea?

Thanks.

UPDATE: I just checked and I can hear what's on the TV but the screen is blank. What appears to be working is the backlight since I see the screen lit up but no display just sound from the source.

UPDATE: Replaced tv with new one the next day. After 6 days of having it and working well now I'm having new problems. I'm getting these horizontal lines over all the tv and flickering.

I put some pictures so you can see them. I'm getting horizontal lines all over the TV plus at the top it can be seen clearly at its worst. Plus there's some flickering that comes on and off between times. Any ideas?

This is the 2nd set I have in less than a week, I'm considering returning it and just get another brand or model. I don't want to deal with constant headaches with a TV that supposed to be new breaking all the time.
LL
LL
LL
LL
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post #72 of 120 Old 01-27-2012, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by kainofsouls View Post

UPDATE: ... I'm getting horizontal lines all over the TV plus at the top it can be seen clearly at its worst. Plus there's some flickering that comes on and off between times. Any ideas? ...

Make sure your video (HDMI, Component?) cable is plugged in firmly on the TV and the source box, as well as the power cable. (Or that the coax cable is screwed in firmly if using OTA.)

Since you said it worked well for six days, I assume you are using Standard or Movie mode and haven't tinkered with settings yet. Or is it in Dynamic mode?
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post #73 of 120 Old 01-27-2012, 11:06 AM
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That first pic looks like an interlace/progressive issue to me.

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post #74 of 120 Old 01-27-2012, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dfp View Post

Make sure your video (HDMI, Component?) cable is plugged in firmly on the TV and the source box, as well as the power cable. (Or that the coax cable is screwed in firmly if using OTA.)

Since you said it worked well for six days, I assume you are using Standard or Movie mode and haven't tinkered with settings yet. Or is it in Dynamic mode?

I tried with the 4 different ports of HDMI with different sources (Playstation 3, Dish, Roku player, Dvd player) and different HDMI cables. Tried Xbox 360 with component cables and its there too. In all sources I can see these horizontal lines.

I did change the settings with some calibration I found at CNET (it's in Movie mode) the day that I got the TV and these horizontal lines appeared yesterday. They weren't there from the beginning, it was 6 days after I got it and changed settings that I saw those lines appearing.

Also, did you see the top of the tv in the pictures, where it looks worse. What I also noticed is that in that top part was a small reflection of what supposed the bottom image of the source. Look at the 2nd picture I posted for an example. You can see the womans hand at the bottom of the picture but if you look at the top of the picture you can see part of the fingers of her hand.

Anyway, what do you think? Should I consider returning or verify something else? Thanks.
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post #75 of 120 Old 01-27-2012, 12:54 PM
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It sounds like you've done enough recabling that it isn't poor seating cables.

Dbone might be right on the interlacing, and I see what you say, the top few scan lines are a copy of the bottom scan lines. So it seems like the TV is having a hard time putting together a frame. You could try unplugging the TV totally from any power source for a few minutes and see if that helps.

If that doesn't do it, you could consider calling Samsung for maintenance. But I don't know if you really want someone digging around in your brand new TV. You might just consider exchanging it. Or, finally, consider getting a refund and waiting until March when the new sets start coming in. Keep us posted.
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post #76 of 120 Old 01-27-2012, 02:26 PM
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I'm a proud owner of a new UN46D6400, and want to hang it in the bedroom as close to the wall as possible.

I orded a Monoprice hanging wire mount (6431) but unfortunealy i didn't fit the indentations on the back near the lower holes.

Can someone recommend a Samsung compatible mount which fits? (The Samsung OEM is a bit out of my budget)
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post #77 of 120 Old 02-02-2012, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by cleh19 View Post

My biggest complaint is the auto dimming of the backlight during gaming. For certain scenes where only a small amount of text (or small picture) is on screen and the rest is black...

I just got my 55" 6400 set, and this is also my only complaint with the TV.

I previously had a UN46Bxxxx (2009), and disabled the "CE Dimming" setting within the service menu. On the 2011 models, there seems to be no "Advanced" menu in which to type 0000, which is how you used to gain access to this feature.

If anyone finds a way to disable the CE Dimming feature on a D6400, please let me know! In the meantime, I guess I'll just set the Shadow Detail at +2.
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post #78 of 120 Old 02-12-2012, 05:51 AM
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Does the 55D6400 have a headphone out or USB? Reason why I am asking is I have a Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 wireless that I use for my laptop. It's sound is awesome especially with the booming subwoofer. I was told by Klipsch it could be used for a tv as long as it had a headphone out that will plug into it. This got me thinking now. My laptop uses the USB dongle to connect wirelessly to the 2.1. So the volume can be controlled on the laptop once it's set on the 2.1. Does the 6400 tv have a USB port that I could just plug the Klipsch dongle in to it and use the 2.1 for wireless sound and then adjust volume from the tv? This 2.1 sounds better than any soundbar I have heard and I would love to utilize it for the tv

Anyone?
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post #79 of 120 Old 02-16-2012, 11:15 AM
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I do during 24p playback. If I turn off 24p in my DVD player, and send it 1080/60p, then I'm good. Also, when testing the Standard AMP setting, I noticed a sync issue, but not with Clear. The more processing that the TV does, the more the audio can/will get out of sync. Things like 24p, Standard AMP, Dynamic Contrast, Film Mode all add to the problem.

I have my Qdeo processor in my Onkyo do all of the deinterlacing and scaling, so my 6420 just receives a 1080p signal and does limited processing. I have no issues at all with this setup.

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post #80 of 120 Old 02-16-2012, 09:42 PM
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OMG!!!! I went to BB and fell in love with this beauty!!

Then....I read this on Amazon about this TV:

"Now the bad. If you are using an external receiver for audio, you will experience a large audio sync problem due to the video lag for the picture processing. This is especially noticeable on 1080p/24 signals from a blu-ray. Despite claiming to be 1.4 compliant and sporting an ARC HDMI jack, this set does NOT support the "auto lip sync" feature. This means you will be manually correcting the audio delay on your receiver all the time. This is particularly annoying due to the fact that the TV itself is obviously capable of calculating the delay, since the TV speakers are always in sync with the video, they just didn't bother to support the function."

Is this true????!!! Has anyone experienced this and how has it been corrected?
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post #81 of 120 Old 02-16-2012, 09:44 PM
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I am trying to purchase a TV this year. I had fallen in love with the LG LE8500 last year, but returned it due to A)it being a floor model and B)the banding that I could see.

I am having a terrible time this year, because I don't know what would match its styling and image quality. I have not seen anything comparable in 2011. I could have bought another LG LE8500 on ebay last year, but I was afraid of the banding again and now I feel like I could kick myself for not having done so!!

I thought that there would be better and more TVs with full array local dimming this year, but they seem to be doing away with them???

So...in my shopping this month... what's available out there now...In terms of styling, I like the looks of the Sony NX720, but it had a narrow viewing angle.

Second choice in terms of styling would be the Samsung UND6400 series. I also looked at the LG LW5600 but too much black plastic for my taste.

How would the Samsung D6400 compare to the LG LE8500 in terms of 2D PQ? I don't care about the 3G, but the Samsung 6400 just has the coolest styling.

Also, how does the Samsung compare to the Vizio XVT3SV series? I am a photographer, so I am very PQ conscious, in terms of color accuracy and contrast levels.Thank you for your help!
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post #82 of 120 Old 02-19-2012, 06:07 AM
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While still working on video settings, can anyone comment on ways to make the AUDIO better. The audio, when in a cabinet sounds very thin and tiny. I find actually MOVIE mode the best setting, but would rather get a richer, deeper and louder but not blown out sound. I can't really move to a hifi setup where this tv is, but would appreciate any input others have for increase audio quality of the set itself.
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post #83 of 120 Old 02-19-2012, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twocrosbys View Post

Also, how does the Samsung compare to the Vizio XVT3SV series? I am a photographer, so I am very PQ conscious, in terms of color accuracy and contrast levels.Thank you for your help!

I find the colors in photographs are a little over saturated, but not objectionable. Contrast range is great.
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post #84 of 120 Old 02-22-2012, 05:00 AM
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Anyone have any 3D settings that they like/share?
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post #85 of 120 Old 02-22-2012, 07:21 AM
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I have one of these TVs and I haven't tweaked it excessively, but I did notice that when using 3D it's best to use the "Dynamic" setting. That setting is too bright for normal viewing but in 3D it's pretty good.

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post #86 of 120 Old 02-22-2012, 07:29 AM
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I have one of these TVs and I haven't tweaked it excessively, but I did notice that when using 3D it's best to use the "Dynamic" setting. That setting is too bright for normal viewing but in 3D it's pretty good.

Yeah I figured that due to the glasses being shaded. My BD Wise kicks in due to the D5500 blu-ray player and it sets the picture brighter to compensate.
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post #87 of 120 Old 03-20-2012, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Bri in Mtl View Post


Yeah I figured that due to the glasses being shaded. My BD Wise kicks in due to the D5500 blu-ray player and it sets the picture brighter to compensate.

Just purchased for older parents and want to chime in and subscribe to thread. 55 delivered in. A few days. Thx.
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post #88 of 120 Old 04-03-2012, 06:48 AM
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would the UN55D6420UFXZC be good to play videogames like battlefield3?
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post #89 of 120 Old 04-03-2012, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxlaplante View Post

would the UN55D6420UFXZC be good to play videogames like battlefield3?

I'm using my UN55D6420 for PS3, Wii, and as my desktop monitor for gaming and its phenomenal.
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post #90 of 120 Old 04-08-2012, 09:11 AM
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Hello All!

My friend has the 46 inch 6400 and her set tends to restart while browsing youtube or netflix. I was wondering if anyone else has encountered this issue and if there are any fixes available. I tried googling for the problem but did not come across any that specifically deals with restarting while on netflix or youtube. The tv is connected to the internet via the samsung adapter. I have the 8000 series (connected via cable to router) and never had this problem.

Thank you in advance for any replies
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Reply LCD Flat Panel Displays

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