Official Sharp AQUOS LC-80LE632U Owners Thread - Page 110 - AVS Forum
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post #3271 of 3283 Old 01-21-2014, 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by ska916jedi View Post

Anyone get a ps4 and have the 80" sharp? I'm in gamer mode and looks amazing, but was wondering if someone had any suggestions or settings to share that they recommend / use. Thanks!

I'm currently running the PS4 with the 632U, and like you, I use Game Mode. I'm currently using the Suzook settings with a massively decreased back light fluctuating between -8 and -12 depending on what time of day it is. I also use a +1 Sharpness setting because (according to my eyes) it gives the picture complete clarity at my preferred seating distance of approx. 10 feet while playing games. I find that if I use a sharpness setting of 0 while playing games, I can notice some slight texture blurring.

 

For Blu-Ray movie playback, I use the Suzook settings with Movie Mode with a decreased back light of -10 to -12.  I keep my sharpness at 0 with a seating distance of 7.5 feet. The Suzook settings when combined with my 6500k LED bias light, give a very authentic movie theater feel.

 

I love the way the 632U handles games, and I've even had Sony R550A-70 owners tell me that they cannot feel a speck of input latency while playing games in my Sharp's game mode. I'm not really sure what exactly the TV is doing (while in game mode) but the low level input latency can't be replicated in any of the other modes, even with all of the settings cloned.

 

Also, don't let those XBoners get you down, I'm sure you'd prefer to play the majority of your multi-platform games at a native 1080p/60fps over 720p/60 any day of the week. =)

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post #3272 of 3283 Old 01-24-2014, 08:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElbowRocket View Post

I'm currently running the PS4 with the 632U, and like you, I use Game Mode. I'm currently using the Suzook settings with a massively decreased back light fluctuating between -8 and -12 depending on what time of day it is. I also use a +1 Sharpness setting because (according to my eyes) it gives the picture complete clarity at my preferred seating distance of approx. 10 feet while playing games. I find that if I use a sharpness setting of 0 while playing games, I can notice some slight texture blurring.

For Blu-Ray movie playback, I use the Suzook settings with Movie Mode with a decreased back light of -10 to -12.  I keep my sharpness at 0 with a seating distance of 7.5 feet. The Suzook settings when combined with my 6500k LED bias light, give a very authentic movie theater feel.

I love the way the 632U handles games, and I've even had Sony R550A-70 owners tell me that they cannot feel a speck of input latency while playing games in my Sharp's game mode. I'm not really sure what exactly the TV is doing (while in game mode) but the low level input latency can't be replicated in any of the other modes, even with all of the settings cloned.

Also, don't let those XBoners get you down, I'm sure you'd prefer to play the majority of your multi-platform games at a native 1080p/60fps over 720p/60 any day of the week. =)
The GAME mode cancels almost all of the picture processing to reduce lag as much as possible. I have a PC hooked up to my Sharp and in any other mode, the lag, when using a mouse, is intolerable. Game mode is great for games - I agree 100%!!
I use '0' backlight in game mode and '0' sharpness (+1 in other modes); contrast +31; brightness +1; Gamma +1; CMS saturation Cyan -13. Everything else is basically default. I have a PS3 and PS4 hooked up to it.
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post #3273 of 3283 Old 05-16-2014, 08:11 AM
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Hi guys!

Checking in to see if any new settings have been tweaked around since the previous posts. Got a 632 this March and really like it. Currently using what I presume are Billdag's latest settings. On a similar note could someone pls explain what are the main differences between Billdag's and Suzook's settings from a real life perspective?

TIA...

vcguy
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post #3274 of 3283 Old 05-21-2014, 06:01 PM
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Hi! Nice to see the the thread hasn't totally died yet or maybe it has - 1 post in 4 months ain't much.

Anyway, glad you like my settings and I do have some interesting news.

Just so I wouldn't be a total hypocrite, I did indeed have a top ISF calibrator (Michael Chen) do my 80" Sharp a couple of months ago. He used the movie setting and mine are in the Standard setting so it's quite easy to compare.

The ISF settings are very easy on the eyes and there is some subtle color shade differences. My standard settings look very close some of the time but overall it has a little more POP and the Gamma is a whisker higher.

As I've maintained for a long time - If you know how to set your backlight, contrast, brightness, sharpness and gamma settings you are almost there. The ISF improvement is fairly subtle but certainly worthwhile is you are a complete newbie and just watch the TV the way it comes.

Michael Chen is a great fellow and I recommend him heartily if you would like a top notch calibration. He was actually one of the fellows responsible for setting up THX video standards as far as I remember.

This thread has had a remarkably long life of well over 2-1/2 years. I check it every month or two for old time's sake but of course, new models have now replaced this extraordinary set.

I've been recommending the LC-80LE642U to family and friends lately. It appears to be almost identical and has the much desired Full Array Backlighting
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post #3275 of 3283 Old 05-22-2014, 08:16 AM
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Thanks for replying, Billdag. I'll have to see if I can find a calibrator of his calibre here in the San Diego County area. Interesting that he chose movie mode. Must be the top pros playground of choice for good reasons. In the meantime I'm pleased with your standard settings plenty enough!

And please don't stay away for months at a time! wink.gif

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post #3276 of 3283 Old 05-22-2014, 03:25 PM
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Hi all is there a replacement model for the le633u
I had a 60uq+ and was not that impressed.

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post #3277 of 3283 Old 05-22-2014, 05:23 PM
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The 642U series appears to be nearly identical to the 632u and 633u. Full array backlighting and 120Hz. As has been mentioned before the 633u is basically a 632u with 240Hz backlight strobe - not the same as a true refresh rate.
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post #3278 of 3283 Old 05-22-2014, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billdag View Post

The 642U series appears to be nearly identical to the 632u and 633u. Full array backlighting and 120Hz. As has been mentioned before the 633u is basically a 632u with 240Hz backlight strobe - not the same as a true refresh rate.

Thank You

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post #3279 of 3283 Old 05-27-2014, 12:53 PM
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I'm figuring that pro calibrators set ambient lighting within a range in order to get the most out of their settings. For my set using Billdag's settings the darker the room the better it seems. Right now I've turned down all recessed lighting close to the set with the only recessed lighting shining about 20 ft away so we're not completely in the dark. It's a family room tied into a kitchen sort of thing.
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post #3280 of 3283 Old 05-27-2014, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by valleycguy View Post

I'm figuring that pro calibrators set ambient lighting within a range in order to get the most out of their settings. For my set using Billdag's settings the darker the room the better it seems. Right now I've turned down all recessed lighting close to the set with the only recessed lighting shining about 20 ft away so we're not completely in the dark. It's a family room tied into a kitchen sort of thing.
OK! Now you got me really excited. YES - my settings are optimized for low ambient light. The thing is, if you watch the set in completely dark room, it will be hard on your eyes and worse, your black floor level will rise to a medium dark gray! The solution is to have some ambient light. This will make it easier on your eyes and subjectively lower the black levels (watching the set in fairly bright conditions gives you coal black floor level - even cheap LCD's have great blacks in brighter rooms. That's why you'll never see plasma sets compared to LCD's unless they're in a dimly lit room).

THE ULTIMATE SOLUTION, which has been discussed here before, is to buy the 16 foot LED lighting kit from Amazon and attach it to the back of your set. Here's where you get it:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040FJ27S/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Under $32 and fully adjustable for brightness and color (each LED is RGB!) There are 5 presets plus a bunch of other colors and effects. Very cool! I recommend using masking tape to reinforce the adhesive strip included.

BUT.......the best part is how the set looks at night with really dim ambient light and the Amazon LED backlight on. Subjectively, the black floor level plunges to about 1/3 of how it looks with them off!

I've had these lights since September 2013 and I am still amazed when there is a commercial or something on with a black background. The black level looks incredible. Virtually indistinguishable from the black frame. This setup has been the single biggest improvement in viewing enjoyment since I bought the set over 2-1/2 Yrs. ago.
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post #3281 of 3283 Old 05-28-2014, 10:15 AM
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Hi Billdag,

When you say attach it to the back of the set where have you found the optimal places to do so? Is it for example 2" from the bezel or as close as one can get to the actual edge of the set without the strip being visible from the front or viewing sides? I can also guess there might've been some recent tweaking (since calibration) of perhaps for instance to the top of the set or the bottom or sides getting different treatment depending on set-tilt or even how high the set is mounted. In my case the set is mounted over the mantle with very little spacing/gap (1/8") between the bottom edge and the mantle top. Plenty of space all around however the top and sides. Btw the set bottom edge is 65" off the floor so quite high indeed with about a 5 degree downward tilt. Main viewing area is directly in front about 14' away.

TIA

vcguy
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post #3282 of 3283 Old 06-01-2014, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valleycguy View Post

Hi Billdag,

When you say attach it to the back of the set where have you found the optimal places to do so? Is it for example 2" from the bezel or as close as one can get to the actual edge of the set without the strip being visible from the front or viewing sides? I can also guess there might've been some recent tweaking (since calibration) of perhaps for instance to the top of the set or the bottom or sides getting different treatment depending on set-tilt or even how high the set is mounted. In my case the set is mounted over the mantle with very little spacing/gap (1/8") between the bottom edge and the mantle top. Plenty of space all around however the top and sides. Btw the set bottom edge is 65" off the floor so quite high indeed with about a 5 degree downward tilt. Main viewing area is directly in front about 14' away.

TIA

vcguy

I have mine mounted about 3" in from the side. At that it JUST about makes it all the way around. My set is on a Sanus wall bracket 23" up from the the floor and about 8" out from the wall. I watch the set from 10-1/2 feet which is optimum for 20-20 vision watching 1080P presentation. You will need to reinforce the light ribbon with masking or duct tape. Otherwise it will gradually loosen.
You may need to experiment with your unique setup. Not a big deal. I don't think I spent more than 15 minutes installing it. Your wall color will play a big factor as well. Mine is eggshell so it works great for reflecting the LED's.
I know others only use the light for the sides and top so that may suit your setup as well. In any case, $32 is an incredibly cheap investment (or gamble) for something that really makes a large improvement in the viewing experience.
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post #3283 of 3283 Old 06-03-2014, 09:17 PM
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Thanks, Billdag!
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