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Official Sharp 2011 LC-70LE632U Owner's Thread

217K views 2K replies 201 participants last post by  paul85 
#1 ·
Figured it might be good to start a thread for us 70'' 632 owners instead of hyjacking either the 80'' 632 or 732 threads =). Feel free to post any questions/comments/concerns here!
 
#252 ·
Anyone ever settle the football watching issue? Basically things look great close up but the players and field look blurry on the further away live play shots. This does not happen with my 65" plasma on the same material - football loos much better on it. Thoughts?
 
#253 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjodotcom /forum/post/0


Anyone ever settle the football watching issue? Basically things look great close up but the players and field look blurry on the further away live play shots. This does not happen with my 65" plasma on the same material - football loos much better on it. Thoughts?

I have not experienced that, and I am SUPER picky about my football! Football looks awesome on mine...
 
#255 ·
For me, best PQ setup in TV, HDMI, Video, USB etc..(Any input once for all).


AV Mode --> Dynamic Fixed


Best and the Best.
 
#256 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjodotcom /forum/post/0



Weird - what was your build date?

Also, besides your build date, do you have any clouding, dark corners or can you see the diamond LED array on the back of your screen when looking at a white source? The football thing is driving me nuts, wondering if I should just exchange the set for a newer build?
 
#258 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by ggcc /forum/post/21311951


For me, best PQ setup in TV, HDMI, Video, USB etc..(Any input once for all).


AV Mode --> Dynamic Fixed


Best and the Best.

Dynamic fixed sets black levels way to high making darker grays black on my AVS calibration disc. And white levels are below reference levels even. This means dark grays become black and light gray a very bluish white. The picture looks crushed and bright. It is great to demo potential brightness/intensity, but it is not a good setting to use for watching blu ray movies or anything else (of course this is my opinion). As the famous line in Full Metal Jacket goes it's "too beacoup."


Calibrating (with ps3 with no clipping and AVS disc) in a moderately lighted room a bright, for a fairly intense picture try a setting of:


backlight: 16

contrast: 27

brightness: 3

Color: 6 to 11 (this is fairly high but I like intense colors so I set at 8)

tint & sharpness: 0

Advanced

Color temp: middle

motion enh: low (set what you like)

Active cont: off

Gamma: 0

Motion enhancement and film mode optional


This shows whites up to the top of the scale, black 16 and below, is pretty bright, and rich colors. I basically calibrated all editable settings to display blacks and whites properly, and colors properly up the scale. Quick and dirty, but I can live with it.


One note about sharpness. Anything over 0 introduces artifacts/extra info. It is quite stark in a test pattern. So consider not setting over zero.
 
#259 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjodotcom /forum/post/21313131


Also, besides your build date, do you have any clouding, dark corners or can you see the diamond LED array on the back of your screen when looking at a white source? The football thing is driving me nuts, wondering if I should just exchange the set for a newer build?

Minor clouding in two spots on very dark scenes; I have not tried "massaging" it yet. No dark corners or diamond LED array on white sources.


Again, I'm very pleased and impressed with the PQ.
 
#260 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by atomic dog /forum/post/21313492


Dynamic fixed sets black levels way to high making darker grays black on my AVS calibration disc. And white levels are below reference levels even. This means dark grays become black and light gray a very bluish white. The picture looks crushed and bright. It is great to demo potential brightness/intensity, but it is not a good setting to use for watching blu ray movies or anything else (of course this is my opinion). As the famous line in Full Metal Jacket goes it's "too beacoup."


Calibrating (with ps3 with no clipping and AVS disc) in a moderately lighted room a bright, for a fairly intense picture try a setting of:


backlight: 16

contrast: 27

brightness: 3

Color: 6 to 11 (this is fairly high but I like intense colors so I set at 8)

tint & sharpness: 0

Advanced

Color temp: middle

motion enh: low (set what you like)

Active cont: off

Gamma: 0

Motion enhancement and film mode optional


This shows whites up to the top of the scale, black 16 and below, is pretty bright, and rich colors. I basically calibrated all editable settings to display blacks and whites properly, and colors properly up the scale. Quick and dirty, but I can live with it.


One note about sharpness. Anything over 0 introduces artifacts/extra info. It is quite stark in a test pattern. So consider not setting over zero.

Great post...thanks!
 
#261 ·
So I used AVSHD to calibrate my set last night. The brightness and contrast setting was a breeze. Much easier than the videos I was using for calibration.


But then I used a blue filter for color/tint setting and they were WAY off. The color setting it recommended (where all the flashing boxes were minimized) was way to high and tint was so high that everything looked green. with those values toned down, it looked fine.


Is it something I am doing wrong?
 
#262 ·
A friend of mine is having some troubles. He has his HD Cablebox (a Motorola) connected to the TV via HDMI (onto port 1). He also has a Polk Audio SurroundBar3000 connected to the TV's audio output and a BR Player connected to HDMI 2.


When he turns on his TV, it automatically turns on the cablebox, BR Player, and the soundbar. The cable box then immediately goes into standby. When turned back on, we find the soundbar is set to maximum audio level.


I had him turn off HDMI-CEC (Aquos Link), and all it did was not change automatically set the input to HDMI 1. Everything else was the same.


Is there something in the TV I should have him look at? Some setting to adjust, etc?
 
#265 ·
Just tried out a Sharp 70le632u at my house. First the box came from a certain major online retailer in poor condition (torn corner, rips, holes) and then on top of it they sent 1 guy to bring it in the house who I was amazed did it so well but was not happy to hear it was only one person. I had someone at home to take delivery or I probably would of refused it. Talked to the retailer who promised to take it back for full refund but they asked me to give it a try, so I did and here are my thoughts -


Size = Awesome but actually felt like it might be a bit too big for my room and sitting position even though the sizing chart said it would be fine. If you got a good size room and need a big screen this will fit the bill.


Very bright screen, looks great on regular content but the set I was looking at had major clouding in multiple areas noticeable as soon as it was on and any dark scenes it showed up. With the box in the condition it was and the screen issues I'm going to send back for a refund and probably stick in the 60-65" range. Having said that if you get one without screen issues and have the room this is one great big screen.
 
#267 ·
Also FYI - I have heard from multiple sources that these sharp sets can vary drastically from set to set (for example, I tried using one persons settings and it made yellow nearly disappear!), so YMMV quite a bit when using other peoples posted cal settings. I recommend picking up a disk like Disney WOW for like 20$ and doing it right
 
#268 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjodotcom /forum/post/21316834


Also FYI - I have heard from multiple sources that these sharp sets can vary drastically from set to set (for example, I tried using one persons settings and it made yellow nearly disappear!), so YMMV quite a bit when using other peoples posted cal settings. I recommend picking up a disk like Disney WOW for like 20$ and doing it right

I totally agree. The reason why these settings, especially the advanced, are there is that sets vary. They give you the ability to make adjustments to get your set right in your environment.


For instance I've seen a lot of brightness hovering between 0 and +6. My set is correctly calibrated at -10.
 
#269 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by atstarr /forum/post/21318152


I totally agree. The reason why these settings, especially the advanced, are there is that sets vary. They give you the ability to make adjustments to get your set right in your environment.


For instance I've seen a lot of brightness hovering between 0 and +6. My set is correctly calibrated at -10.

I agree that the settings should be used for a baseline/trial but each set may be different but also each set of eyes, room lighting and other factors can contribute to differences.
 
#270 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Briant73 /forum/post/21318183


I agree that the settings should be used for a baseline/trial but each set may be different but also each set of eyes, room lighting and other factors can contribute to differences.

I'm also guessing that some hours of burn-in to allow all components to stabilize prior to calibrating is a good idea.
 
#271 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by gameboy /forum/post/21313519


So I used AVSHD to calibrate my set last night. The brightness and contrast setting was a breeze. Much easier than the videos I was using for calibration.


But then I used a blue filter for color/tint setting and they were WAY off. The color setting it recommended (where all the flashing boxes were minimized) was way to high and tint was so high that everything looked green. with those values toned down, it looked fine.


Is it something I am doing wrong?

I had this same exact problem! My color/tint were set way HIGH! I couldn't figure it out. Then someone posted to use the AV mode of Movie and then tweak from that setting. I was using the USER setting and all my settings were way off. Once I used Movie and used WOW from that mode, things are more in line and look GREAT! Give it a try and hope it works for you.
 
#273 ·
Wanted to give an update on my TV shoot out:


Regardless of the buzzing and slight pink edge problems I had, I still decided to give the 65ST30 a try in a PQ shoot out between itself and a 70" Sharp 632. I used d-nices settings for the plasma and my own calibrated values for the sharp.


Tested material included scenes from pirates of the Caribbean, monsters inc, up and lord of the rings for movies. I also looked at some DVRed content (hockey, football, dexter and biggest loser).


On all scenes save one (PotC only slightly) myself and my wife both concluded that the sharp actually had an equal or greater picture quality to the Panasonic. Colors were brighter and had more pop, movies had more of a "perceived 3D" feel (SOE was removed on both sets) and detail seemed better across the board. Also, black levels did not seem grossly different - though I am in a dark basement so I was able to turn down the LCD backlight to help. Overall the immersiveness of the larger screen was also preferred.


The results were surprising to me to say the least, I really expected the Panasonic to win out - but I let my eyes be the judge. I guess at least this saves me the hassle of returning multiple sets to get a "good one". Obviously YMMV but for me, this is what I concluded.
 
#274 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjodotcom /forum/post/21318799


Wanted to give an update on my TV shoot out:


Regardless of the buzzing and slight pink edge problems I had, I still decided to give the 65ST30 a try in a PQ shoot out between itself and a 70" Sharp 632. I used d-nices settings for the plasma and my own calibrated values for the sharp.


Tested material included scenes from pirates of the Caribbean, monsters inc, up and lord of the rings for movies. I also looked at some DVRed content (hockey, football, dexter and biggest loser).


On all scenes save one (PotC only slightly) myself and my wife both concluded that the sharp actually had an equal or greater picture quality to the Panasonic. Colors were brighter and had more pop, movies had more of a "perceived 3D" feel (SOE was removed on both sets) and detail seemed better across the board. Also, black levels did not seem grossly different - though I am in a dark basement so I was able to turn down the LCD backlight to help. Overall the immersiveness of the larger screen was also preferred.


The results were surprising to me to say the least, I really expected the Panasonic to win out - but I let my eyes be the judge. I guess at least this saves me the hassle of returning multiple sets to get a "good one". Obviously YMMV but for me, this is what I concluded.

Thanks for sharing your findings. I too was wondering if PQ was better on the plasmas vs led tv's. If you can say that it comes close or even better in most cases, I will stay with the LED for its other benefits it has. I will agree with you in that the PQ (after WOW calibration) and especially the immersiveness is second to none!
 
#275 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by rbanez /forum/post/21318381


I had this same exact problem! My color/tint were set way HIGH! I couldn't figure it out. Then someone posted to use the AV mode of Movie and then tweak from that setting. I was using the USER setting and all my settings were way off. Once I used Movie and used WOW from that mode, things are more in line and look GREAT! Give it a try and hope it works for you.

Yes, I was using the "USER" mode. I will try the "Movie" mode tonight.
 
#276 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by rbanez /forum/post/0



Thanks for sharing your findings. I too was wondering if PQ was better on the plasmas vs led tv's. If you can say that it comes close or even better in most cases, I will stay with the LED for its other benefits it has. I will agree with you in that the PQ (after WOW calibration) and especially the immersiveness is second to none!

Yep - just got to get rid of the clouds now, might wait a month or so (got 90 days with Costco) and try out a newer build. I got a September build which is one of the first, might explain some of my current problems.
 
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