Replacing blown capacitors on Samsung LCD (LN46A650) - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 30 Old 01-22-2012, 01:42 AM - Thread Starter
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So my 3.5 year-old LN46A650 just started clicking on and off repeatedly a few days ago. I've heard that Samsung used cheap capacitors so I immediately thought that was the case. Did a bit of research and checked my TV, and sure enough, 2 of the 25v 1000uF capacitors are blown.

Anyway, just bought 4 Nichicon caps on ebay and plan on replacing the two that are blown. Was wondering if I should replace the other two that are located near the 25v 1000uF caps, because looking at some youtube videos, it's usually those 4 that are more likely to go. The other two caps are only 16v 1000uF caps though... is it ok to replace the 16v ones with 25v caps, because I bought a pack of 4 25v 1000uF 105C caps.
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post #2 of 30 Old 01-22-2012, 03:27 AM
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It is ok to go up in voltage but never capacitance. The 25V rating on the cap is the max voltage of the circuit, that the cap can safely be used in. So putting a 25V cap where a 16v one is called for doesn;t cause any problems, because the max assumed voltage to be hitting that cap safely should never exceed 16v.

Hope this helps.
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post #3 of 30 Old 01-22-2012, 04:59 AM
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The bad capacitors were a problem for a large number of premature failures of aluminium electrolytic capacitors in many respected brands of computers, video cards, LCD TVs/monitors etc..

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

For example, in the following article, Dell, Apple and HP computers widely affected. Note that only HP would identify the maker of its faulty capacitors as Nichicon, of Kyoto, Japan.

http://news.cnet.com/PCs-plagued-by-...3-5942647.html

On a DIY basis, the new replacement caps should be rated for an operating temperature of 105 degrees C, have low effective series resistance (ESR) and a hifger voltage rating would be better.

As long as you're changing out the (2) identified failed capacitors, it will only take you a couple of more minutes to replace the other (2) as well.

Alternativily, Samsung has been fixing sets affected with free repairs.
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post #4 of 30 Old 01-22-2012, 06:27 AM
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Just started happening to me a couple days ago. Watched video upon video on how to replace it myself and in the end, ended up calling Samsung and they verified my set was eligible for the free in-home repair.

Still curious how easy it would have been to do it myself but since it is my main TV didn't want to take the chance. Besides, what's better than free!
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post #5 of 30 Old 01-22-2012, 06:40 AM
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Would anyone know what Samsung is replacing the bad capacitors with? I asked if they were going with the 25v and the guy said yes but I was also curious if they were putting in 105c as opposed to 85c.
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post #6 of 30 Old 01-22-2012, 07:33 AM
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The capacitors are though hole types and are a pretty easy DIY repair for anyone with basic soldering skills.

The PITA is obtaining the right capacitors (see specs above).

Remove back back panel.

Remove connections and power supply board.

Unsolder the capacitors, from bottom side (use a solder sucker or wick).

Insert new capacitors and solder (observe correct +/- polarity).

Of course having it repaired free is better.
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post #7 of 30 Old 01-22-2012, 10:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Damn, so repair would've been free, even if it's out of warranty? Would they still fix it if I already took the back panel off?

Thanks for the replies. I already bought the caps, so I might just do it myself anyway.

Also, is there any specific solder that's recommended?
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post #8 of 30 Old 01-22-2012, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rahzel View Post

Damn, so repair would've been free, even if it's out of warranty? Would they still fix it if I already took the back panel off?

Thanks for the replies. I already bought the caps, so I might just do it myself anyway.

Also, is there any specific solder that's recommended?

Yes, they would have. Mine has been 2-3 years out of warranty and the guy never hesitated when I asked him. They ask for your model and serial number and from that they can tell if it was part of the affected sets. Like I said earlier, I would have done it myself (never soldered before) but didn't want to run the chance of screwing something up on the main TV in the house.

Good luck!
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post #9 of 30 Old 01-22-2012, 12:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, I'll give my local Samsung service center a call on Monday and see if they'll still replace the caps for me with the ones I bought. If not, I guess I'll just do it myself.

Luckily we have 4 HDTVs in the house. This A650 was formerly my HT TV, but now it's just in the livingroom. Had to bring my LG LH90 from the basement HT for now.

Still, just in case I have to do it myself, what kind of solder is ideal for this type of application? I've only soldered in high-school so I'm by no means a soldering expert. But I'm assuming something that has a high conductivity (if there is such a thing).
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post #10 of 30 Old 01-26-2012, 12:43 PM
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Samsung repair guy was in and out within 15 minutes. Replaced 4 caps and back up in business. No charge! Have read alot of nightmare stories of people dealing with Samsung but I have to say that my experience couldn't have gone any smoother!
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post #11 of 30 Old 01-26-2012, 02:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kuma65 View Post

Samsung repair guy was in and out within 15 minutes. Replaced 4 caps and back up in business. No charge! Have read alot of nightmare stories of people dealing with Samsung but I have to say that my experience couldn't have gone any smoother!

Same. Only 2 caps were blown but he replaced all 4 on my request, free of charge. I even took the back panel off because I was gonna do it myself and they still honored the extended warranty.

They used the same brand of caps that I bought (Nichicon) which are supposedly pretty good. He showed me the caps that he used and they looked bigger than the originals, but I didn't get a look at the ratings.

Was initially mad at Samsung for using crap caps, but at least they man up to their mistakes.
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post #12 of 30 Old 01-27-2012, 04:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rahzel View Post

Same. Only 2 caps were blown but he replaced all 4 on my request, free of charge. I even took the back panel off because I was gonna do it myself and they still honored the extended warranty.

They used the same brand of caps that I bought (Nichicon) which are supposedly pretty good. He showed me the caps that he used and they looked bigger than the originals, but I didn't get a look at the ratings.

Was initially mad at Samsung for using crap caps, but at least they man up to their mistakes.

When the repair shop called me to verify the appointment they asked if it was wall mounted and I said yes. Her reply was that the repair guy might not help me get it off the wall for insurance reasons. So I got it off the night before and took the back off. Mine has been out of warranty for probably 3 years now. The guy said the same thing, I told him it looked like 2 of the caps were bad and he said that's alright, we automatically replace all 4. Huh, who was I to complain!
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post #13 of 30 Old 01-27-2012, 08:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thiao View Post

The bad capacitors were a problem for a large number of premature failures of aluminium electrolytic capacitors in many respected brands of computers, video cards, LCD TVs/monitors etc..

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

For example, in the following article, Dell, Apple and HP computers widely affected. Note that only HP would identify the maker of its faulty capacitors as Nichicon, of Kyoto, Japan.

http://news.cnet.com/PCs-plagued-by-...3-5942647.html

On a DIY basis, the new replacement caps should be rated for an operating temperature of 105 degrees C, have low effective series resistance (ESR) and a hifger voltage rating would be better...

The Wikipedia LINK was excellent and the References section had even more LINKs for me to read.

I have 'Bad Caps' in a ViewSonic VG150 Monitor (difficult to turn on and display tears at 1024x768 - better at 800x600) and several 'Bought Used' ReplayTV 5XXXs (2.2VDC on the 3.3VDC line). And, until I make room on my workbench to open it up, possibly my Dell 400SC too. I took a DeVry Electronics Course back in the late 70s / early 80s (builit a Nixie DVM, 5MHz Oscilloscope and Heathkit 25" Color TV) so I'm generally familiar with electronics, as a hobby. This 'ESR' thing is new to me though. The 'Same Value' caps in my Junkbox from the 80s are HUGE compared to the ones on the ReplayTV P/S. I'm in the process of identifying *ALL* of the related 'Bad Caps' (even ones that haven't yet blown) and placing one big order from one vendor - probably DigiKey or Mouser or JameCo - but there are many interesting Wikipedia LINKs that I still have to read.

Thanks!

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post #14 of 30 Old 02-22-2012, 08:52 AM
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Does anyone have a number for Samsung LCD Free Repair support??

This is now happening on my set. I am hoping to use it to my advantage and buy a new TV (if I could figure out which 55" to buy that would be better than my LN46A650 for ~$1500 - feel free to advise me there!)

Otherwise, where's the best DIY for this?


Thanks!

Samsung LN46A650 TV, Denon AVR-2113ci, Polk Audio TL350 speakers, SVSOUND PB10 subwoofer

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post #15 of 30 Old 02-22-2012, 09:04 AM
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This may be of interest to you:

http://slickdeals.net/f/3977028-Sams...lement-Lawsuit


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post #16 of 30 Old 02-28-2012, 04:33 PM
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Quote:

Wow thanks for the link!

Well the good thing is, I called the number on that page last week, and this morning someone fixed the TV for FREE in a very short amount of time. At first I was thinking I'd never buy a Samsung again but it's pretty cool that my TV is repaired for nothing after 3.5 years. I wasn't home but the wife says he told her "two things were bad but I replaced all four" (or 5, she wasn't sure)

Only "bad" thing is I am not getting a new TV in the very near future. Maybe later this year.

Samsung LN46A650 TV, Denon AVR-2113ci, Polk Audio TL350 speakers, SVSOUND PB10 subwoofer

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post #17 of 30 Old 04-25-2013, 01:40 PM
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You guys rock. I did some searching around on the Internet last night to find out if this was a known issue. I always like to know before I get something repaired. But I found the information on Samsung's one time Out of Warranty fix on this very issue. I called them today, and it wasn't a problem, they are sending out someone to fix it.
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post #18 of 30 Old 04-25-2013, 01:40 PM
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You guys rock. I did some searching around on the Internet last night to find out if this was a known issue. I always like to know before I get something repaired. But I found the information on Samsung's one time Out of Warranty fix on this very issue. I called them today, and it wasn't a problem, they are sending out someone to fix it.
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post #19 of 30 Old 04-25-2013, 02:04 PM
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I posted up in samsung A850/860 thread..there was a settlement but only for tv's for before jan 09. Mine was made in jan 2009 and they refused. I have the 52A850 in my bedroom eek.gif
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post #20 of 30 Old 08-28-2013, 06:31 PM
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I had a few TVs go down due to a lightning hit. Now Im getting the Samsung click on one of them. I took off the back panel but its not apparent to me that any caps are bulged. if I unplug the board that has all the video inputs the clicking goes away and the backlight comes on.

Could I just have some bad caps or could it be something else? My model is a ln52b750 and Samsung said its not in the class action lawsuit.. May be worht a shot to replace them and see what happens but if its definitely not it I'll walk away from it..
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post #21 of 30 Old 08-29-2013, 07:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rahzel View Post

So my 3.5 year-old LN46A650 just started clicking on and off repeatedly a few days ago. I've heard that Samsung used cheap capacitors so I immediately thought that was the case. Did a bit of research and checked my TV, and sure enough, 2 of the 25v 1000uF capacitors are blown.


Anyway, just bought 4 Nichicon caps on ebay and plan on replacing the two that are blown. Was wondering if I should replace the other two that are located near the 25v 1000uF caps, because looking at some youtube videos, it's usually those 4 that are more likely to go. The other two caps are only 16v 1000uF caps though... is it ok to replace the 16v ones with 25v caps, because I bought a pack of 4 25v 1000uF 105C caps.

I would replace the entire power supply board just to be sure you get all corrupt components. Shop jimmy has them cheap. It's a 10 minute swap out, no soldering, no worries, and no guessing. smile.gif
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post #22 of 30 Old 08-30-2013, 04:37 PM
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Thanks I'll look into that... You think that's possibly my problem or could it be something else down the line?
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post #23 of 30 Old 08-30-2013, 04:42 PM
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Damn he's OOS on this one..
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post #24 of 30 Old 10-27-2013, 06:43 PM
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My sammy 46 led crapped on me today, after 1 year and 11 months of use. I called samsung and they said that I have to assume the repair costs...
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post #25 of 30 Old 10-29-2013, 09:12 AM
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I'm a little confused as to whether my Samsung has the same problem as everyone else. My set has a problem that has gotten progressively worse over a few months. When it started I would switch it on and there would be a garble picture for a few seconds then it would go black for a few seconds then the picture would come on as normal. Over time it would do this cycle a couple of times. Then as time went by it would get worse it would cycle 5 or 6 times. I just assumed it was having trouble tuning in. It didn't seem like the TV was switching off and on just having trouble tuning. Once it came on it would be OK so it got to the point where I just left it on.

But a few days ago it went kapput. After I did some research and found out about the cap problem I thought this might be what's wrong with my set. I bought the TV in late 2008 so it's about the right age. Trouble is none of the caps look that bad. There is one that has a small bulge but nothing too serious. I've ordered a kit to replace the caps so I'll see if it works.

I went out and bought a cheap Seiki so I had something to watch but it looks like **** compared to the Samsung. I want my old TV back!!
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post #26 of 30 Old 10-29-2013, 12:28 PM
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Well my kit came this morning. Trouble is there is no cap that is equivalent to the only one that looks like it's bulging and the other caps don't match either. There's three 1000uF 25V caps and the only ones they sent were 1000uF 10V

Oh well.
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post #27 of 30 Old 01-08-2014, 02:47 PM
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I'm fairly certain I'm suffering from this issue. Attached is an image of what's happening to me.



This happens most times I turn on my TV (Samsung LN52A650). Those lines will turn black and extend horizontally to the right. It will eventually go away after 10-15 minutes. I called Samsung and gave them my SN. They said my TV was manufactured on Jan 1, 2009. Which means it doesn't qualify for the cap replacement. I then had the nice lady (and she was very nice) transfer me to the "Capacitor Department". Yeah, there's a whole department for it. I asked and she said there was. When I talked to that nice lady, she said that the symptoms of my TV aren't related to the class action suit, and therefore, not covered by Samsung. I find this highly unlikely. Especially considering the issue will eventually go away. Can any of you confirm my suspicions? If so, where can I get this "capacitor kit" for my TV to repair it? Thanks so much for your help!
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post #28 of 30 Old 05-19-2014, 05:44 AM
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Mine is doing the EXACT same thing as the photo above.  Did you ever figure out if it was the capacitors or not?

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post #29 of 30 Old 05-20-2014, 06:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjthurman View Post

Mine is doing the EXACT same thing as the photo above.  Did you ever figure out if it was the capacitors or not?

So, I've come to learn this is not a capacitor problem. This is a circuit board/ribbon cable issue. When it's cold out, the ribbons shrink and lose their connection. After the TV warms up, or if the ambient temperature is warm, the TV doesn't do this. When the TV first comes on, if we squeeze the bezel in the top left corner (usually along the top), if we hit the right spot, the ribbons connect, and we get a good picture. We used to be able to fix that all the time, now, it's becoming more and more difficult to squeeze the bezel correctly. So, we just let it be until the TV warms up.

I've seen YouTube videos on this issue. I'm really pissed, because I spent like $1800 on this TV back in 2009 and it's having this issue. I'm also thinking that it'll be too expensive to fix this issue.
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post #30 of 30 Old 05-20-2014, 06:18 PM
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Thank you so much!  Yes, mine is doing the exact same thing.  Haha - I've been shaking it and it's been fixing itself.  I suppose I should just wait till it warms up so I don't damage it.  I really appreciate your response. 

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