Official Samsung UNXXEH6000 Owners' Thread - Page 86 - AVS Forum
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post #2551 of 2575 Old 05-23-2014, 09:16 AM
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Hello all,

 

I have a UN50EH6000 (CH01) I got last year and I recently started to have some issues. it started about a month ago when I found my TV wouldn't turn on. Standby light would start to pulse then after 5 seconds would shut off then go back to being solid. I left it for about a day and I went to try it again and it started functioning normally. Since then however, the TV randomly power cycles during use, taking about 5-8 seconds after the screen cuts before it is back on. It was only happening once every few hours but it happened 4 times within 30 minutes the other day. No further issues with turning the TV on though.

 

I've tried changing surge protectors and outlets, still having the problem. Updated the firmware too, no dice. Since its random and I cant reproduce on command, its always tough to try fixes and know whats working. I've noticed the problem doesn't occur for a few hours after the TV has been unplugged for a while, but that could just be a coincidence. This doesn't seem like a common problem with customers so I am starting to think something is defective with the unit.

 

The TV started acting up roughly 1.5 weeks after my warranty was up and I tried to contact Samsung to help but they "attempted" to call me multiple times and I received nothing. At this point, I am ready to just try and fix it myself. Anyone have any ideas or recommendations? I'm not ready to dump 300 bucks trying to bring the TV somewhere to get fixed because at that point I should just buy a new TV. I'm thinking I could try buying a replacement power supply and trying to swap that out since its only 30 bucks. From my research, the part I need is BN44-00499A.

 

I'm not new to dealing with hardware and I've built computers and fixed gadgets like this in the past (PS3 for example). TVs are a new area for me and I was hoping to seek some advice on my fix attempt. If anyone has any advice or suggestions on ways to address my problem, let me know. I appreciate it.

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post #2552 of 2575 Old 05-23-2014, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theturcs View Post

Since then however, the TV randomly power cycles during use, taking about 5-8 seconds after the screen cuts before it is back on. It was only happening once every few hours but it happened 4 times within 30 minutes the other day. No further issues with turning the TV on though.

Well I had a power cycling problem with my TV as well. It actually is a not unheard of problem with these units btw.

Long story short: from the time I first contacted Samsung about my TV's power cycling problem, 4 service tech visits, DOZENS of hour-long phone calls, enough part swapping to build a brand-new TV, and 7 MONTHS - yes 7 MONTHS - of grief and frustration went by before I finally received a refund for the purchase price of the TV - and that was while the TV was actually in warranty!

You might be able to fix it (it is SUPER EASY to swap the parts yourself btw), but from my experience I wouldn't count on a part-swap working (mine would last for a while then go right back to power cycling) so imho you are better off just selling it on Craigslist and using the money to get a new one.

Quit readin my signature ya stupid signature reader.
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post #2553 of 2575 Old 05-23-2014, 11:51 PM
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I'm sure I'll have to hide with embarassed shame after asking this. I recently picked up the 55" version of this tv for a good deal. I'm curious if it'd be possible to swap in the video main board from the FH6200 model so I can have smart features on it? (obviously case cutting would be required) The 6200 uses the same power supply, and has all the same connectors. The tcon is obviously different, since it is a different panel. Anyway, am I just living a pipe dream, or is this possible?
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post #2554 of 2575 Old 06-06-2014, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by mdneilson View Post

I'm sure I'll have to hide with embarassed shame after asking this. I recently picked up the 55" version of this tv for a good deal. I'm curious if it'd be possible to swap in the video main board from the FH6200 model so I can have smart features on it? (obviously case cutting would be required) The 6200 uses the same power supply, and has all the same connectors. The tcon is obviously different, since it is a different panel. Anyway, am I just living a pipe dream, or is this possible?

Well, after much research, I decided to take a $50 gamble and bought a whole set of 6200 boards on ebay. Well, it works! And it didn't even need case cutting! (I have the CH01 panel btw) biggrin.gif
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post #2555 of 2575 Old 06-15-2014, 11:02 PM
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7 months of ownership and I am still happy with this 65 inch 6000 series unit, the initial calibration made all the difference, also just upgraded firmware 1022 to 1024. For a sub $1000 unit it worked out well, only issue has been serious red dot screen issue when running it through my Harmon kardon reciever using pass through to my Xbox One solution was to take receiver out of the loop and run HDMI straight to the TV.
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post #2556 of 2575 Old 06-17-2014, 08:16 AM
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Red face v1024 Firmware... anyone?

Hello all... It's been 3+ months soince it was released... I was wondering if anyone has upgraded to the v1024 firmware. I currently have v1022, and other than slow power up, and slow source input change speeds, I've been very please with this television. I don't want to screw up the TV, but if the firmware makes it better, I'll all for it.

Have there been any brave souls that have made the change? If so... what are the differences?
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post #2557 of 2575 Old 06-18-2014, 02:00 PM
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Hi All.
2 Questions. Have a big birtday today and my wife surprised me wit a Sony kdl-65w850a.( Guess if you leave certain web pages open they will get the message.) Is there somewhere in either the menu or the service menu that shows how many hours are on the set? Also,anyone have an idea what a fair resale price would be for a 19 month old 60" set. Have all the packaging.
Thanks for any help.

Howard
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post #2558 of 2575 Old 06-23-2014, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dendk View Post
7 months of ownership and I am still happy with this 65 inch 6000 series unit, the initial calibration made all the difference, also just upgraded firmware 1022 to 1024. For a sub $1000 unit it worked out well, only issue has been serious red dot screen issue when running it through my Harmon kardon reciever using pass through to my Xbox One solution was to take receiver out of the loop and run HDMI straight to the TV.

I'll second this opinion. I have zero regrets about buying this set. Out of the box it's terrible, but once calibrated it looks terrific watching good content and it certainly prompted friends to consider upgrading their sets.

Thanks for trying the 1024 firmware. Did you see any changes in behaviour after upgrading. Is there any reason to upgrade? Any effect on the colour banding?
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post #2559 of 2575 Old 06-26-2014, 10:45 PM
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I upgraded firmware on my UN55EH6000 on Monday. Everything seems to be working fine so far.

The Samsung site says the 1024 firmware "Corrects AMP setting to work."(!) Guess it wasn't working before? I actually enjoy SOE to some extent (I like that high frame rate effect in The Hobbit, for instance) so AMP was part of the reason I picked this TV up at Best Buy in February 2013. I hadn't been noticing much SOE with blur and judder reduction both on 10, but I was getting bad screen tearing (I think that's what it's called; fast-moving objects are surrounded by clouds of pixels), and haven't noticed this since upgrading. I think my old firmware was version 1017.

Also, my panel is a CH02. How does that compare to other panels out there for this TV?
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post #2560 of 2575 Old 06-30-2014, 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by amusementshark View Post
I upgraded firmware on my UN55EH6000 on Monday. Everything seems to be working fine so far.

The Samsung site says the 1024 firmware "Corrects AMP setting to work."(!) Guess it wasn't working before? I actually enjoy SOE to some extent (I like that high frame rate effect in The Hobbit, for instance) so AMP was part of the reason I picked this TV up at Best Buy in February 2013. I hadn't been noticing much SOE with blur and judder reduction both on 10, but I was getting bad screen tearing (I think that's what it's called; fast-moving objects are surrounded by clouds of pixels), and haven't noticed this since upgrading. I think my old firmware was version 1017.

(snip)
Thanks for your post. Both it and release notes that were FINALLY posted on Samsung's site in the (recent?) past allowed me the gumption to upgrade the firmware on my 46" model. So far, playing Netflix, blu-ray, HBO GO and broadcast HDTV I notice no issues and possibly better brightness under Eco Mode, although it's hard to tell. I notice no improvement in AMP however, and to my knowledge it was always working fine under the 1012 firmware (previous official release on the Samsung site) using my preferred Blur 10/Judder 0 under Custom in order to supposedly do proper 5:5 24p pulldown. The annoying "Netflix jerk" effect remains every few seconds so I have to disable it for that, still, but I've learned to live with that inconvenience.

So in short, I doubt there's much risk in updating and perhaps possible benefits.
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post #2561 of 2575 Old 07-04-2014, 01:41 PM
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I upgraded the UN65EH6000 firmware from 1022 to 1024. It saved my settings.

No perceivable changes (so far) and it didn't fix the banding issues.
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post #2562 of 2575 Old 07-28-2014, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by nxsfan View Post
I'm glad you are happy lightforce18. That must be some beastly mount you are using.
<hr class="bbcode_rule">
I discovered tonight that something strange happens when you label the input as "PC" or "PC DVI". I see this has been discussed somewhat by other Samsung holders.<br><br>
With the input labeled as PC you get a new mode "Entertain" (but I stuck with Standard), you automatically get 1:1 pixel mapping without selecting "Screen Fit".<br><br>
Color, Tint and most of the post-processing settings are disabled, but I ended up with a decent picture without changing much.<br><br>
Mode: Standard<br>
Backlight: 12<br>
Contrast: 100<br>
Brightness: 45<br>
Sharpness: 50 (this needs to be very low when the input is not labelled as PC)<br><br>
White Balance: Untouched<br>
Gamma: -3<br>
Color Tone: Standard<br>
HDMI Black Level: Normal<br><br>
One downside is that the TV jumps out of this special mode when it receives 1080p24 so for now I'm outputting blurays at 1080p60.<br><br>
Some of the stuff I watched tonight really looked incredible. EDIT: I added photos of the TV with these settings to my lengthy post <a class="bbcode_url" href="http://www.avsforum.com/t/1395734/official-samsung-unxxeh6000-owners-thread/2400#post_24027452"><b>here</b></a>.<br><br>
Unless the banding issue drives me mad, this TV is definitely a keeper.
Did you change anything except the Gamma? All the other settings you posted seem to be the standard configuration for PC input. Any reason to keep the Gamma and backlight as low as you have them?
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post #2563 of 2575 Old 08-09-2014, 05:33 PM
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Hey tylerk86, I'm sorry it took so long for me to reply.

I just checked my settings and I have made a couple of changes after further playing with the Disney WOW disk.

Contrast: 90
Color Tone: Warm1
Gamma: -2

Backlight: 12, is plenty bright enough for daytime viewing in a well lit room. If it seems dark to you I imagine you have a different panel.
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post #2564 of 2575 Old 08-16-2014, 09:51 AM
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Thanks for the reply, nxsfan. HDMI level is grayed out for me with these settings; any thoughts?
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post #2565 of 2575 Old 08-19-2014, 08:03 AM
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The 65" version of this TV is on my short list right now. I saw it at Wal-Mart and although it looked crappy there I trust user reviews and they look favorable. I wanted to get some info from users if possible.

How is it with bright rooms, light reflections and wide viewing angles? My TV will be in a corner angled to both a living room and a breakfast nook. The breakfast nook will be viewing it from a wide angle so I want to make sure the screen accommodates this. Viewing from the living room there are a few windows in the kitchen that will reflect off the screen and the whole room can be bright in the daytime.

Also how does it look with SD content? Most of what I view will be HD but I do have an old DVD player that we occasionally use and some of the content on the Roku that the kids watch is SD.

I currently have a Sony R60XBR2 that has finally succumbed to the green cast from the optical block failing. The entire screen has a heavy green tint now. This TV when tuned properly looked better than any TV I have ever seen. The lamp is at the end of it's life also. I figure time for a new TV instead of replacing the lamp and trying to find out how to get the optical block fixed. From what I gather warranty replacement is out of the question. And the optical block isn't made anymore.

Thanks for any replies.
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post #2566 of 2575 Old 08-22-2014, 09:38 AM
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Picked up a UN50EH6000 at Best Buy yesterday to replace a PN51E550 I bought last year. I loved the PQ of the plasma but it burned in like a beast even after over 500 hours of low contrast/low brightness settings. They had the 6000 advertised in the store on sale for $699 but they honored their website price of $639 and I pulled the trigger. I was shocked to find out that the 6000 does not have an RBG Only setting to adjust color and tint during calibration. Anyone know if this is accessible via a firmware update, service menu? I'd hate to have to purchase THX blue filter glasses for this, but I'm afraid there may be no other way.

Otherwise, good PQ - though nothing like the glorious PQ the plasma offered. A shame burn-in is such an issue still.
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post #2567 of 2575 Old 08-30-2014, 07:54 PM
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A Little update on this TV...started having shutoff issues after a few hours....Samsung technical was superb, on time and replaced three components, the mainboard, daughter board and an updated longer cable from board to display.

They claim it is a known issue with the cable being to short causing separation/shutoff when the unit gets hot...but they also replaced all the boards to be sure, only two component boards behind the panel took all of 10 minutes.
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post #2568 of 2575 Old 10-11-2014, 08:27 AM
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added updated calibration/settings for my UN46EH6030 in my sig (first link)
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post #2569 of 2575 Old 10-16-2014, 06:48 AM
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Does anyone happen to know the size of the screws that go from the pedestal stand to the back of the TV? I'm selling mine and can't find the screws that I thought were in the box. I've been able to determine that M3 screws go from the pedestal to the back plate, but I don't know what size goes from the back plate to the TV. Samsung tech support said they were all M3 6mm, but IDK.
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post #2570 of 2575 Old 10-16-2014, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by ganzhimself View Post
Does anyone happen to know the size of the screws that go from the pedestal stand to the back of the TV? I'm selling mine and can't find the screws that I thought were in the box. I've been able to determine that M3 screws go from the pedestal to the back plate, but I don't know what size goes from the back plate to the TV. Samsung tech support said they were all M3 6mm, but IDK.
The base screws are not M3 either. Don't know what Samsung tech support is smoking. IDK. The search continues.
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post #2571 of 2575 Old 10-17-2014, 03:41 AM
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Originally Posted by iBrad View Post
Quote:Originally Posted by marshall110 

For those of you who are satisfied with your EH6000/6001/6003/6050, no need to read the rest of this post as it may ruin the set for you. Maybe not. If you're still evaluating and do not see this issue in these scenes, please report back if possible.

I have two separate UN60EH6050 from Costco and both exhibit the purple/violet ghosting issue. Very minor but it is there and it is consistent with dark edges on light backgrounds. In previous posts, another member used the scene in The Return of the King where Gollum goes nuts with Sam in the swamp as a test scene. When I originally watched this scene, I saw zero ghosting on Gollum's edges. This is because I didn't know what to look for and now that I have seen it, I can detect it in the Gollum scene, but he moves so quickly that it just isn't a very good scene for detecting if your set has this issue. I think the scene right after is much better. Aragorn is silhouetted and walks out onto the balcony. You can see slight purple ghosting on the edges of his silhouette. Another scene that jumps out at me is in X-Men Origins Wolverine near the end right when he gets the top of the reactor just before he fights Deadpool. He's climbing with his claws and then jumps up on the ledge. I can see it plain as day here. During the battle, watch the edges of Victor's coat while they battle Deadpool. All in all the ghosting is minor but it is there on my sets. The Walking Dead episode "Killer Within" shows it as well in the dark scenes in the prison where there's a lot of movement. I think any dark scene with fast moving characters will exhibit the ghosting. The ghosting is not present when you pause the scene or step through it, only when it's playing. I'm wondering if Samsung could at least update the firmware to have the ghosting grey scale if not eliminated altogether.


Quote:Originally Posted by chicolom 

The purple ghosting issue seems to be isolated to Sharp panels FWIR. And AFAIK the 60" models only use sharp panels. So other EH6000/6001/6050/etc owners may not see any symptons of it unless they also have a sharp panel.

Since the problem is likely with the panel itself and not with any software, I wouldn't expect a firmware update to fix anything.


Quote:Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U 


I believe you're right about this, though it seems the 60Hz (Sharp) panels are more affected by this than the 120Hz (Sharp) ones.


There is a workaround solution for this purple/dark-red smearing/ghosting, it's probably caused by the minimum brightness bias-level for the "lcd pixel Response Time Compensation (RTC) / pixel overdrive circuit".
Its overdrive influence the Samsung panels also, happens on my UE40EH6030 with Samsung 40A1AF0D panel, this was discussed somewhere in thread "The *OFFICIAL* 2012 Samsung EH4000/EH5000/EH5300 Owner's Thread"
To get rid of purple smearing:
- set BRIGHTNESS at 45 or above, lower the backlight to compensate the black level.
- set BRIGHTNESS at 50 or above, when LED MOTION PLUS = ON
To get rid of dark/black screen dimming/muting:
- set BRIGHTNESS at 44 or above.

Someone gonna report these to Samsung, so they can fix it with new firmware?
Hi , I have same exact problem my new 60h7000 model ... please look at the topic below and suggestions please


Samsung 60h7000 red tracing issue ?!!!
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post #2572 of 2575 Old 11-29-2014, 11:15 PM
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Just replaced my PS3 with a PS4 for gaming and blurays. Can anyone recommend rgb and y/pc/br settings? Auto/limited/full?

Thanks
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post #2573 of 2575 Old 12-06-2014, 03:57 AM
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Just replaced my PS3 with a PS4 for gaming and blurays. Can anyone recommend rgb and y/pc/br settings? Auto/limited/full?

Thanks
It seems like auto would be the best choice according to Playstation Support. Here is what they say:

"RGB Range: Change this only when you use an HDMI device that does not send RGB range information correctly. [Automatic] is the default and recommended setting. If you'd like to change this setting, check your TV's capabilities before doing so.

Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr Range: Change this only when you use an HDMI device that does not send Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr range information correctly. [Automatic] is the default and recommended setting. If you'd like to change this setting, check your TV's capabilities before doing so."


I don't know what it is, but seemingly out of nowhere I noticed the banding others have been commenting on. I have the UN40EH6000. It seemed fine for the longest time, but now its all I notice. I'm already debating to get a new set although I wanted to wait.

Does anybody happen to have the latest firmware ver.1024.0 they can share? It seems it can't be downloaded from Samsung currently, but maybe it's an issue they will work out.
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post #2574 of 2575 Old Yesterday, 08:19 AM
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1. I'm looking to purchase the 46" H6203 from Best Buy. How is this unit different from the 60XX and 61XX?

2. Am I correct to assume the 6203 has 10 point white balance control and CMS cintrol for calibration?

3. Most importantly - how well does this TV track for color saturations? Has anyone measured and posted this from CalMAN? I'd love to see a saturations chart in 25% steps for RGBCMY as well as the avg and max dE for the ColorChecker CalMAN workflow and graph if anyone has seemed/posted it.

Thanks!!
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post #2575 of 2575 Old Today, 02:13 PM
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Can't change the spdif?

So earlier today I bought a Magnavox sound bar for my samsung. I notice in the audio settings it wont let me change it to dolby digital even though the sound bar supports it.. I have it hooked up to my tv through a optical cable. Any ideas what is going on?
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