Official Samsung UNXXEH6000 Owners' Thread - Page 87 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2581 of 2589 Old 06-26-2015, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by theturcs View Post
Hello all,
 
I have a UN50EH6000 (CH01) I got last year and I recently started to have some issues. it started about a month ago when I found my TV wouldn't turn on. Standby light would start to pulse then after 5 seconds would shut off then go back to being solid. I left it for about a day and I went to try it again and it started functioning normally. Since then however, the TV randomly power cycles during use, taking about 5-8 seconds after the screen cuts before it is back on. It was only happening once every few hours but it happened 4 times within 30 minutes the other day. No further issues with turning the TV on though.
I just started having the same problem a couple of days ago, and now the TV constantly cycles on and off within a couple seconds. Did you find a solution? What can I do about it?
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post #2582 of 2589 Old 07-04-2015, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post
Sure. I'll let you know in a couple of hours.
1.5 years later....
Anyways id like to know also Ive had this for while now but just picked up rasberry pi 2 loaded openelec *kodi* and would like to use my remote but there are no options in TV menu yet 3 year older Samsung TV in living room does..go figure

Last edited by demo23019; 07-04-2015 at 11:31 AM.
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post #2583 of 2589 Old 07-07-2015, 01:02 PM
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I have the updated firmware 1024 and everything has been working great... All my settings carried over. The best change is the fix for being able to disable auto motion plus.
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post #2584 of 2589 Old 09-26-2015, 02:39 PM
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There is no official CEC support on the EH6000. You can enable the Anynet+ menu from the extended service menu but in my experience CEC doesn't actually work, I've been trying to make it work with 3 different devices (rpi1, pulse-eight usb CEC injector on a openelec machine and a chromecast V1) but none of them can talk CEC to the TV set (and of course I'm using a HDMI cable with pin 13 wired, did the power cycle trick, etc.). tried this with FW 1024 and 1012 and I'm only getting the no device found in the Anynet+ search device menu.

Also ex-link in this tv (at least my UN46EH6000F) is a bust, after sending any hex command (with or without framing) to the port in autowall or MDC mode I only get a 7e flag back, sometimes 7e 5e too but nothing else, with UART switched to debug mode the output is a constant stream of non readable stuff (with a serial terminal @ 9600 or 115200, nothing is working for me), I've tried MDC mode and sent MDC codes too, tried ON1 and ON2 modes all of this to no avail. tried this with the settings; "auto on" on and "eco mode" off, NADA!

[rant] I've spend too much time on this, I think Samsung wins this one, though I'm not upgrading any time soon I'm building an IR blaster for my HTPC and call it quits for now Also in my research I've learned a lot about Samsung's QA, customer service and user satisfaction... maybe this is only a thing in the North america region and the Tijuana plant but I really doubt my next TV will be a Samsung. [rant]
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post #2585 of 2589 Old 11-27-2015, 04:09 AM
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Hi guys, I have a un65eh6000z and it keeps turning on and off sometimes. If I leave it unplugged all night it might turn on normally. I've replaced both the power board and the main board and even unplugged the power button/IR sensor to see if that was it. Anybody have a clue what it might be? Thanks ahead of time for your help.
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post #2586 of 2589 Old 11-27-2015, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ensastiga View Post
There is no official CEC support on the EH6000. You can enable the Anynet+ menu from the extended service menu but in my experience CEC doesn't actually work, I've been trying to make it work with 3 different devices (rpi1, pulse-eight usb CEC injector on a openelec machine and a chromecast V1) but none of them can talk CEC to the TV set (and of course I'm using a HDMI cable with pin 13 wired, did the power cycle trick, etc.). tried this with FW 1024 and 1012 and I'm only getting the no device found in the Anynet+ search device menu.

Also ex-link in this tv (at least my UN46EH6000F) is a bust, after sending any hex command (with or without framing) to the port in autowall or MDC mode I only get a 7e flag back, sometimes 7e 5e too but nothing else, with UART switched to debug mode the output is a constant stream of non readable stuff (with a serial terminal @ 9600 or 115200, nothing is working for me), I've tried MDC mode and sent MDC codes too, tried ON1 and ON2 modes all of this to no avail. tried this with the settings; "auto on" on and "eco mode" off, NADA!

[rant] I've spend too much time on this, I think Samsung wins this one, though I'm not upgrading any time soon I'm building an IR blaster for my HTPC and call it quits for now Also in my research I've learned a lot about Samsung's QA, customer service and user satisfaction... maybe this is only a thing in the North america region and the Tijuana plant but I really doubt my next TV will be a Samsung. [rant]
Hi,
can you tell me how to enable CEC in service menu on my H6030? I built an ir blaster and can get access to Factory+3SPEED options, but cant find anything that suggest CEC/Anynet in options...
Thanks
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post #2587 of 2589 Old 12-06-2015, 12:26 AM
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Regarding the service menu for UN46EH5000FXZA:
  • Using remote, POWER OFF.
  • Press MUTE, 1, 8, 2, POWER ON (be sure to be close to IR port)
  • The SERVICE MENU pops up. Select Option > Factory Reset
  • TV shuts down. Press MUTE, 1, 8, 2, POWER ON (be sure to be close to IR port)
  • The SERVICE MENU pops up. Select Control > Ensure Auto Power and Anynet+ are "On"
  • POWER OFF, POWER ON
  • Anynet+ should show up in the regular menu under the second to last section.

**NOTE** you can NOT skip the factory reset. In order for the Anynet option to appear in the service menu, it will ONLY show up immediately after a factory reset.

Nevertheless, even once Anynet+ shows up under the regular settings menu, it still doesn't seem to detect or control anything.

(made an account, just in hopes someone else can figure this out...)
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post #2588 of 2589 Old 12-08-2015, 10:50 PM
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UN60EH6003F calibration

I know it's a bit old now, but I've only had this UN60EH6003F set a couple of years now, and up until now had only roughly calibrated it. Only have a Spyder3 at the moment, so I was stuck using Spyder3Elite & SpyderTV to calibrate, using the AVS709 reference files. (Yes, hoping to change that in the future. Would be nice to have a better meter.) I didn't bother with RGB gain/offset until today, as I just didn't force myself to take the time on it until now. Here are the settings I am now using.

Mode: Movie
Backlight: 12
Contrast: 98
Brightness: 46
Sharpness: 0
Colour: 51
Tint: R53

Advanced Settings
Colour Space: Native
White Balance: see below
Gamma: -3 (This gives gamma of 2.07, discussed later.)
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Black Tone: Off
Flesh Tone: Off
Motion Lighting: Off (greyed out in my case)

White Balance
R-Offset: 26
G-Offset: 23
B-Offset: 14
R-Gain: 30
G-Gain: 21
B-Gain: 0

Picture Options
Colour Tone: Warm2
Size: Screen Fit
Digital Noise Filter: Off
HDMI Black Level: Normal
Film Mode: Off (greyed out in my case)
Auto Motion Plus: Doowutchyalike
LED Motion Plus: Off

With regard to the white balance settings, I set the RGB offsets with a 20% grey image I got:
0.313 x
0.329 y
6481 K
0.009 dab

And with an 80% grey image for the RGB gain settings I got:
0.313 x
0.329 y
6488 K
0.005 dab

Overall, this gave me:
Black: 0.068 cd/m2
White: 122.333 cd/m2 (35.7 fL)
(Resulting in a 1799:1 contrast ratio.)
6508 K
0.064 dab

I noticed the default gamma setting of 0 gave an actual gamma of 1.79 so I figured I might as well fiddle with that, too. Using +3 brought a gamma of 1.52, and -3 gave a much more desirable 2.07 result. That's why I went with that.

And for "Mode" I went with Movie instead of Standard because for whatever reason the Standard setting was still too blue. I couldn't get better than 6969 K with it, which isn't too bad I suppose, but using Movie instead let me get it pretty much bang on. Standard mode did give me something around an extra 10 fL, but meh, it's bright enough as it stands.
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post #2589 of 2589 Old 12-10-2015, 06:14 AM
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Your settings are somewhere neighborly to my own _Shorty, but I did mine by eye only. Still pretty happy with them and my set is an actual Samsung panel three and a half years old and going strong.

Mode: Movie
Backlight: 20
Contrast: 95

Brightness: 46
Sharpness: 4
Color: 53

Tint: G50/R50

Advanced Settings:

Color Space: Auto
White Balance:

R-Off: 25
G-Off: 25
B-Off: 25
R-Gain: 8
G-Gain: 22
B-Gain: 8

Gamma: 0

Dynamic Contrast: Off
Black Tone: Off
Flesh Tone: 0
Motion Lighting: Off (greyed out)

Picture Options:

Color Tone: Warm2
Size: Screen Fit
Digital Noise Filter: Off
HDMI Black Level: Normal (greyed out)
Film Mode: Off (greyed out)
Auto Motion Plus: Off when playing streaming media (causes jerkiness), others = Custom: Smoothness - 10 / Judder Reduction - 0 (supposedly this gives true 5:5 pulldown)
LED Motion Plus: Off

Eco Solution:

Energy Saving: Off
Eco Sensor: On
Min. Backlight: 10
No Signal Power Off: 15

--

Those last settings have helped keep it looking pretty good, even in bright daylight, and that's important since mine is placed near some large windows.

Last edited by bewlaybrothers; 12-10-2015 at 06:17 AM.
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