Official Sharp AQUOS LC-60LE847U & LC-70LE847U Owners Thread - Page 31 - AVS Forum
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post #901 of 2660 Old 06-11-2012, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenson View Post

Hi All,
My 2011 version le60835U panel developed a thin (probably a pixel wide) red vertical line after about 50 hours use ...
Sharp is planning to send me the 2012 version (60847U) ...i believe this is a reasonable outcome, but wanted to check in on the plan to see what everyone else thought.
Comments?

Only 50 hours on a TV that is 8-12 months old. Dang, you dont watch much TV at all do you?
Did Sharp tell you what the problem was with your TV?
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post #902 of 2660 Old 06-11-2012, 12:42 PM
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huge sigh...everytime I decide on a TV to buy then problems start to arise...as I wait to see more post, more problems arise....I am still planning on getting the 847 unless things go from bad to worse.

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post #903 of 2660 Old 06-11-2012, 01:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maximuslcd View Post

huge sigh...everytime I decide on a TV to buy then problems start to arise...as I wait to see more post, more problems arise....I am still planning on getting the 847 unless things go from bad to worse.

Ha! I was thinking the same thing. Mine is going to be delivered tomorrow (well the 845) I guess I shouldn't read for anything except possible calibration settings. I was really sensitive to any issues with my 60" SXRD due to the forums but have never thought twice about my 40" Samsung (I haven't read those threads). But then again the samsung was under $900 so maybe that makes me less concerned with it in general.

I am going to look at is as a 4 year stop gap TV until the OLED tech (or something better) comes along and gets cheap.
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post #904 of 2660 Old 06-11-2012, 01:57 PM
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Hopefully someone can help me with the 2D to 3D conversion.

I was at Costco today and we could not get this feature to activate. It was grayed out in the Menu on two tv sets.

We had the glasses On, a HD 2D channel from Directv, and tried every combination of setting sin the 3D Setup Menu.

Is there a trick to it?

Thanks.

Shelly

Farewell Voom. Farewell Directv. Farewell Bell Express Vu. Farewell Dish.
Had 6 dishes, now none.
Back to Comcast. Farewell Comcast, now back to Dish 120+HD. Farewell Dish.

Returned to Comcast 06/2012.

Back in the early days, there were just HD demo loops, no programming. Now HD 3D, amazing!

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post #905 of 2660 Old 06-11-2012, 09:40 PM
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I pulled the trigger and ordered the LC-60LE847U online today. All I need is good 3D and 240 Hz. Did I make the right decision or should I have gone for the LC-60C8470U?
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post #906 of 2660 Old 06-12-2012, 07:42 AM
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I called for an update on my case today. It wasn't a very pleasant call. More or less Sharp said they are still trying to get a tech to reproduce the problem or look into it. They said if I don't like the tv take it back. No offer to exchange.. no offer to replace system board again.. no solution. Pretty disappointing..
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post #907 of 2660 Old 06-12-2012, 08:34 AM
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I spent some time with my 70C8470U, Calman v3.7 and my DTP-94. The CMS really works well. I had an issue with getting blue dialed in, but at 1:30am, found that I'd chosen a color temp that was in the middle. When I went to work on grayscale, blue was really blown out and I didn't have enough adjustment range to get it under control. Setting the color temp to the lowest choice allowed me to dial in the grayscale from 10-100 without using the 10 step adjustment - that's really linear behavior.

tonight I'll go back in and fix blue in the gamut and touch-up as needed because I'm sure that changing the color temp will shift the gamut a little. When done, I'll post my settings. I think I can also turn the backlight down more from the -4 value as my luminance on the 100% white is around 65 (i think this is in ftL, but have pinged the calman folks to figure out what units that number is in).

i also note that I'm still sort of torn. I have clouding/flashlighting in the lower left corner. i don't notice i during the day, but at night in the darkened room, I notice it. I'll say that it's better now that I've calibrated it, but it's still there. i'm not sure if I should exchange or not yet. I tested lower values of the backlight and it didn't seem to help in reducing it's noticeability.

Best,
jeff
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post #908 of 2660 Old 06-12-2012, 10:26 AM
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I have a question about setting up my system (for those of you who know this stuff): Here are my components: 1) 70" Sharp TV; 2) Sony 7.1 AV Receiver; 3) Panasonic Blu Ray; 4) HD Cable Box; 5) XBox 360. My question to you guys is this...

My low-level expertise thinks the best way to hook it up is as follows. 1) Cable from wall to Cable Box and from Cable Box to TV (pretty obvious). 2) Cable Box HDMI OUT to Sony Receiver IN. 3) Blu Ray HDMI OUT to Sony Receiver IN. 4) XBox 360 HDMI OUT to Sony Receiver IN. Then, 5) Sony Receiver HDMI OUT to Sharp TV HDMI IN. So, basically, running everything first through my Sony Receiver via HDMI, then output from my Receiver to my TV.

Is that how you guys would set it up? Or is there a better, more effective way that I don't know? Thanks so much in advance for your advice - this is the first time I'm hooking up a legit home theater.

Nate

TV = Panasonic P65VT50 Plasma Ass-Kicker
Receiver = Sony STRDH720 7.1 Channel 3D AV Receiver
BR = Panasonic DMP-BDT220 Intergrated Wi-Fi 3D BR/DVD
Speakers/Subwoofer = Martin Logan MLT-2 5.1 Channel
Game System = XBox 360, Wii
Cable = Bright House HD
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post #909 of 2660 Old 06-12-2012, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NateDoggg View Post

I have a question about setting up my system (for those of you who know this stuff): Here are my components: 1) 70" Sharp TV; 2) Sony 7.1 AV Receiver; 3) Panasonic Blu Ray; 4) HD Cable Box; 5) XBox 360. My question to you guys is this...
My low-level expertise thinks the best way to hook it up is as follows. 1) Cable from wall to Cable Box and from Cable Box to TV (pretty obvious). 2) Cable Box HDMI OUT to Sony Receiver IN. 3) Blu Ray HDMI OUT to Sony Receiver IN. 4) XBox 360 HDMI OUT to Sony Receiver IN. Then, 5) Sony Receiver HDMI OUT to Sharp TV HDMI IN. So, basically, running everything first through my Sony Receiver via HDMI, then output from my Receiver to my TV.
Is that how you guys would set it up? Or is there a better, more effective way that I don't know? Thanks so much in advance for your advice - this is the first time I'm hooking up a legit home theater.
Nate

Mine is set up like this:
1. TV out to Receiver in audio Optical so doesnt matter (bi-directional)
2. Blu ray player to TV HDMI
3. XBOX to TV
4. PS2 to TV
5. Cable box to TV input with HDMI

You want all your audio from TV to go to the receiver, so you need TV out to Receiver in or use HDMI or optical cable and it wont matter as bi-directional.
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post #910 of 2660 Old 06-12-2012, 11:02 AM
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Does this set remember picture settings on a per input basis? It seems if I change the picture settings on HDMI2, for example, the picture settings get changed on all inputs.
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post #911 of 2660 Old 06-12-2012, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjre1 View Post

Mine is set up like this:
1. TV out to Receiver in audio Optical so doesnt matter (bi-directional)
2. Blu ray player to TV HDMI
3. XBOX to TV
4. PS2 to TV
5. Cable box to TV input with HDMI
You want all your audio from TV to go to the receiver, so you need TV out to Receiver in or use HDMI or optical cable and it wont matter as bi-directional.

So, in your first step I could use TV out to Receiver via HDMI cable instead of Optical? Is that what you are saying?

This seems to be the exact reverse of what I was doing before. Does the surround sound from my Receiver/Speakers perform better in this configuration? Thanks in advance!

TV = Panasonic P65VT50 Plasma Ass-Kicker
Receiver = Sony STRDH720 7.1 Channel 3D AV Receiver
BR = Panasonic DMP-BDT220 Intergrated Wi-Fi 3D BR/DVD
Speakers/Subwoofer = Martin Logan MLT-2 5.1 Channel
Game System = XBox 360, Wii
Cable = Bright House HD
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post #912 of 2660 Old 06-12-2012, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by mjpatel View Post

Just an fyi, I have had the LC-60LE8470U from CostCo and have watched 2 movies via our PS3. One was a bluray and one was streaming via Amazon Prime. In both cases, for whatever reason, the TV detected a 3D signal and popped up all the warning messages and telling us to put on 3D glasses. It was a 2D movie in both instances.


It happend numerous times during the bluray movie and was very annoying.


Have other owners had this problem?


Any ideas?

In your 3d options there is an auto-detect. Turn that OFF.
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post #913 of 2660 Old 06-12-2012, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NateDoggg View Post

So, in your first step I could use TV out to Receiver via HDMI cable instead of Optical? Is that what you are saying?
This seems to be the exact reverse of what I was doing before. Does the surround sound from my Receiver/Speakers perform better in this configuration? Thanks in advance!

You could use HDMI cables for picture and audio, however, I seperated mine so I wont have any sync, distortion or quality issues. What I did was use HDMI for video and optical to my receiver. This is the best possible set up that you can try and works well for me. You should hook the receiver up using an optical cable and all your other components via HDMI to TV, unless if you dont have HDMI on the compoents suchs as PS or Xbox, then use regular RCA jacks. On the receiver end, Only one cable will do; hooked up from your receiver and TV and that is the optical cable. Other than that for a simple set up with less cables, try this above. This is how my set up is and it works out well for me. I have tried many different set ups and this was the best so I left it.

Note: Running a pure audio optical cable will perform better in this configuration.The only thing you want the receiver to capture is audio. I would not use it as a video by-pass at all. Most A/V users will tell you this.
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post #914 of 2660 Old 06-12-2012, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joealtus View Post

Does this set remember picture settings on a per input basis? It seems if I change the picture settings on HDMI2, for example, the picture settings get changed on all inputs.

Yes, it does. I have two inputs regularly used (HDMI 1/ARC for receiver and TV for OTA), and I calibrated the user settings on both.
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post #915 of 2660 Old 06-12-2012, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by frankyoualot View Post

In your 3d options there is an auto-detect. Turn that OFF.

Yeah turn that off. Originally it is turned off ffrom the factory, however, with the firmware/software update, it is set back to auto.
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post #916 of 2660 Old 06-12-2012, 01:17 PM
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This thing was pretty ugly out of the box. CGGormans settings helped a lot but now it seems a little dim. I know his settings were for a dark room so I have to figure something out for a lit up room that keeps his colors but makes it brighter.
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post #917 of 2660 Old 06-12-2012, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AHDTVDiet View Post

This thing was pretty ugly out of the box. CGGormans settings helped a lot but now it seems a little dim. I know his settings were for a dark room so I have to figure something out for a lit up room that keeps his colors but makes it brighter.

the light output are controlled by the contrast and the backlight controls. If you have a setup disc like the AVSHD or Spears and Muncil, etc. you can get the contrast set so that there's no clipping. My experience on this set is there's a range of values that accomplish that. to set the overall light output (or rather to know how much light you're getting out of the set), you need some kind of instrument to make that measurement.

Also note that all but the lowest temperature setting (top option in the color temperature menu) pushes blue big time. I think in CGGorman's setting he didn't say which temperature setting he used. http://www.avsforum.com/t/1397140/official-sharp-aquos-lc-60le847u-lc-70le847u-owners-thread/630#post_22063118

But a couple of posts above, SlapHappy says he uses low. I agree, use the lowest temperature setting you can.

I'll be posting my settings tonight after I wrangle blue so you'll have another set to look at.

Best,
jeff
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post #918 of 2660 Old 06-12-2012, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greeno View Post

the light output are controlled by the contrast and the backlight controls. If you have a setup disc like the AVSHD or Spears and Muncil, etc. you can get the contrast set so that there's no clipping. My experience on this set is there's a range of values that accomplish that. to set the overall light output (or rather to know how much light you're getting out of the set), you need some kind of instrument to make that measurement.
Also note that all but the lowest temperature setting (top option in the color temperature menu) pushes blue big time. I think in CGGorman's setting he didn't say which temperature setting he used. http://www.avsforum.com/t/1397140/official-sharp-aquos-lc-60le847u-lc-70le847u-owners-thread/630#post_22063118
But a couple of posts above, SlapHappy says he uses low. I agree, use the lowest temperature setting you can.
I'll be posting my settings tonight after I wrangle blue so you'll have another set to look at.
Best,
jeff

Thanks! I look forward to your settings as I currently do not have a setup disk.
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post #919 of 2660 Old 06-12-2012, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AHDTVDiet View Post

This thing was pretty ugly out of the box. CGGormans settings helped a lot but now it seems a little dim. I know his settings were for a dark room so I have to figure something out for a lit up room that keeps his colors but makes it brighter.

What I have done is raised brightness and lowered contrast to keep the same colors. I know this is a temp fix until I can calibrate this.
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post #920 of 2660 Old 06-12-2012, 01:54 PM
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Does anyone out there in this forum have settings for a well lit room or for watching sports in the day time? If you share we will like you. LOL.Thanks.
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post #921 of 2660 Old 06-12-2012, 06:35 PM
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I spoke with the tv tech Sharp assigned to my case tonight. He said Sharp was hinting that the tv is working as designed. He offered to have me come to their shop tomorrow to test a brand new 70" they have for a customer pickup this week. I'll try to meet him and his boss to do this. I drove 30 miles to the next closest Costco tonight. Both of their 8470 models (60 and 70) show the same problem. I then went to Sears to try an 847 but they had none on display. Good sale on the 60 now for those interested, but none in stock anywhere near me to view. I went to another Best Buy Magnolia after that and tested the 3d test on the 60 and 70 elites, 80 844, 60 745, and 70 845 they had on display. Every tv looked good except the 845. The 745 once again was noticably better with them being displayed next to each other. The elites were the same quality as the other two I tried as was the 844.

I'm thinking this has to be some type of firmware or hardware issue in this line. The Magnolia rep didn't notice the problem at first until I described the shadows on both sides of the balls on the 3d test. I showed him the 845 and then the 745 and he said it was a noticable difference.

I'm hoping Sharp has a real update for me by Friday.
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post #922 of 2660 Old 06-12-2012, 10:43 PM
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Hi Guys,
Here're my settings [ updated june 14, 2012 after turning chroma enhancement off on panasonic 220 bluray player]
movie mode
OPC off
backlight 0
contrast 25
brightness 0
color 0 note: we shouldn't use tint and color if using CMS
tint 0
sharpness 2
cms hue: r=18, , y=2, g=-13, c=5, b=-19, m=2
cms sat: r=-11,y=-6,g=-5, c=0, b=0, m=-15
cms value: r=10, y=0, g=-4, c=-6, b=-7, m=+4
color gamut range=standard
color temp=low.
1point (i got lazy and didn't do the 10pt)
lo: r=9, g=8, b=-11
hi: r=-10, g=9, b=-11
motion enhancment aquomotion 240
quad pixelo plus 2=off
active contrast=off
gamma adjust=0
film mode=off
digital noise reduction = low

A couple of notes. I couldn't tame blue in the gamut. choosing the low color temp is the only way to tame grayscale.

Best,
jeff
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post #923 of 2660 Old 06-13-2012, 06:58 AM
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I am on my 5th Sharp 70 inch - most recently Sharp swapped out a 632 for a 640, and it has some serious clouding issues. Sharp sent a tech out to confirm the problem and made this offer: Swap out the 640 for another 640, or upgrade to the LC70LE847U for a minimal cost. Another option is a refund directly from Sharp. My main concern is that a top of the line set might experience the same issues as an entry level panel. What would you do if you were in my position? It was next to impossible to watch the Stanley Cup Playoffs with all of the noise in back of the picture... Thanks.

https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=c929f6af0b155736&Bsrc=Share&Bpub=SDX.SkyDrive&sc=Photos&resid=C929F6AF0B155736!335&id=C929F6AF0B155736!335
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post #924 of 2660 Old 06-13-2012, 09:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhuehne View Post

I spoke with the tv tech Sharp assigned to my case tonight. He said Sharp was hinting that the tv is working as designed. He offered to have me come to their shop tomorrow to test a brand new 70" they have for a customer pickup this week. I'll try to meet him and his boss to do this. I drove 30 miles to the next closest Costco tonight. Both of their 8470 models (60 and 70) show the same problem. I then went to Sears to try an 847 but they had none on display. Good sale on the 60 now for those interested, but none in stock anywhere near me to view. I went to another Best Buy Magnolia after that and tested the 3d test on the 60 and 70 elites, 80 844, 60 745, and 70 845 they had on display. Every tv looked good except the 845. The 745 once again was noticably better with them being displayed next to each other. The elites were the same quality as the other two I tried as was the 844.
I'm thinking this has to be some type of firmware or hardware issue in this line. The Magnolia rep didn't notice the problem at first until I described the shadows on both sides of the balls on the 3d test. I showed him the 845 and then the 745 and he said it was a noticable difference.
I'm hoping Sharp has a real update for me by Friday.

I dont know if this makes a difference for you, but it did for me. Did you try to update your firmware/software using a USB and not through the wired/wireless network? When I updated using the internet wired LAN, I still had some ghosting, however, when I used the USB stick, the ghosting went away totally. I wonder if the internet dropped for a second and didnt capture a packet of information. The TV told me that it was complete, however, I believe that the packet of info was missing. Very strange, but in the world of technology this can happen. It shouldn't make a difference, but in my case it did. Good luck.
Hope this helps.
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post #925 of 2660 Old 06-13-2012, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greeno View Post

Hi Guys,
Here're my settings:
movie mode
OPC off
backlight -4
contrast 25
brightness 0
color 0 note: we shouldn't use tint and color if using CMS
tint 0
sharpness 2
cms hue: r=18, , y=2, g=-13, c=8, b=-8, m=2
cms sat: r=-11,y=-6,g=-5, c=0, b=-7, m=-15
cms value: r=10, y=0, g=-4, c=-7, b=0, m=+4
color gamut range=standard
color temp=low.
1point (i got lazy and didn't do the 10pt)
lo: r=9, g=5, b=-10
hi: r=-7, g=9, b=-11
motion enhancment aquomotion 240
quad pixelo plus 2=off
active contrast=off
gamma adjust=0
film mode=off
digital noise reduction = low
A couple of notes. I couldn't tame blue in the gamut. choosing the low color temp is the only way to tame grayscale.
Best,
jeff

Jeff,
Are these settings for a well lit room, all dark room or half lit room? Thanks.
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post #926 of 2660 Old 06-13-2012, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myoda View Post

I am on my 5th Sharp 70 inch - most recently Sharp swapped out a 632 for a 640, and it has some serious clouding issues. Sharp sent a tech out to confirm the problem and made this offer: Swap out the 640 for another 640, or upgrade to the LC70LE847U for a minimal cost. Another option is a refund directly from Sharp. My main concern is that a top of the line set might experience the same issues as an entry level panel. What would you do if you were in my position? It was next to impossible to watch the Stanley Cup Playoffs with all of the noise in back of the picture... Thanks.
https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=c929f6af0b155736&Bsrc=Share&Bpub=SDX.SkyDrive&sc=Photos&resid=C929F6AF0B155736!335&id=C929F6AF0B155736!335

I think you and Sahrps dont get along or like each other. LOL JK.
OCUH 5 TV's. I am sorry. I think maybe you should get an Elite model. I feel bad that you are having all these issues. These TV's are not that bad. One unti that you didnt try is the LC70LE8470U. Try that before asking Sharp for your money back and see how that works for you. Please report ok.

NOTE: if you dont want nay noise coming from the back of the TV, then avoid plasmas.
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post #927 of 2660 Old 06-13-2012, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by cjre1 View Post

I dont know if this makes a difference for you, but it did for me. Did you try to update your firmware/software using a USB and not through the wired/wireless network? When I updated using the internet wired LAN, I still had some ghosting, however, when I used the USB stick, the ghosting went away totally. I wonder if the internet dropped for a second and didnt capture a packet of information. The TV told me that it was complete, however, I believe that the packet of info was missing. Very strange, but in the world of technology this can happen. It shouldn't make a difference, but in my case it did. Good luck.
Hope this helps.

I did my over the Internet directly off the tv. I'll try the usb today to see if it will let me update even though the version is the same.

I just got back from the TV repair shop. The tv they had was a 70" 745. I looked at that tv with my glasses (2 models) and my source as well as the built in tv test. 3 techs were there including the owner. They all saw the problems I've been seeing on this 745, and it was much better than the ghosting on my set. The owner made a comment that he wouldn't be able to watch a movie with that type of picture and that he was unsure if Sharp would fix this as they are already working on new model tvs in engineering. He suggested considering switching models to the elite or brands. The tech assigned to my case is going to call Sharp today and update them that multiple techs saw the issue on a similar model today.
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post #928 of 2660 Old 06-13-2012, 10:06 AM
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Noob here. been a tech junkie forever though. Just picked up LC-60C8470u @ Sam's club. Definitely liking picture after tweeking some settings per some of the suggestions on here. Have some clouding in lower corners- esp. left side. Gonna keep an eye on it and see how it progresses as far as better/worse.
Watched Point Break on blue ray last night- new sony 3d blu-ray player. Looked fantastic.

Got 2 questions for y'all: 1) when watching the blue ray- instead of bars at top and bottom- the player I'm assuming seemed to put the bottom edge of the movie at the bottom of the tv screen and left a larger black bar only at the top side. Looked fine like that. I think the player did this but not sure as never really watched too many blu- ray movies. Only on ps3 on older sharp aquos 42".

Anyone else ever experience this? Is that normal?

And 2) what do the cms adjustments do? H,S,V? If someone could explain briefly for us noobs. Never had a tv calibrated but want to learn more about these settings and how they affect pq.
Also the 10 point temps for R,G,B? Why such drastic settings on some numbers like: position 1 I notice alot of very positive numbers and even some settings at the far end of spectrum in temp 10 pt and HSV settings. Just wanted a brief explanation if anyone has the time.

Read through this whole thread yesterday- lots of reading. Thanks to all who added their remarks, settings, etc. If I had read this prior to buying, I may have splurged for the Elite series- just for the quality aspect. Definitely wanted to go with LED/LCD as opposed to plasma for several reasons. I had been considering the Panasonic 65vt series. I have a 4 yr. old lg plasma and get alot of ghost images, and black bars from movies, and didn't want to deal with that with playing games- the map thing always in one spot- and tv stations logos always displayed in one spot. I think burn in will always be an issue w/ plasma. Plus wanted lower electricity usage- that is important to me. This set makes NO noise at all.
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post #929 of 2660 Old 06-13-2012, 10:32 AM
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Welcome Steerlerfan47. I will let the other members answer your questuon, since, I have not completed my full test or calibrations yet on this set. I am still in the process of working with my TV settings. However, question 1, sounds like your blu-ray making this bar. Have your tried the settings to clear the bar? Ie, film mode in the advanced area. There are many settings to tweak with this model of TV.
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post #930 of 2660 Old 06-13-2012, 10:39 AM
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hi,
the cms is a color management system. it allows one to calibrate the color gamut and align the primaries (r,g, b) and secondaries (cyan, magenta and yellow) to the spec. here's a link that goes through what you're doing and what's needed:
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/video-calibration/36858-video-calibration-using-cms-content-management-system.html

the 10 point temperature adjustment (and it could just be a single one like I used) is for setting the grayscale. here you're balancing the colors to make the spec for gray (so-called D6500 k which is the D specification for 6500Kelvin. there are many specifications, but D6500K is what's required for SD and HD TV. it's the color of white snow on an overcast day roughly). the "lo" are used to make adjustments for the lower % stimulus values and the "hi" are for the higher % stimulus. Here's a grayscale guide for dummies (note that HCFR is just one of several software packages that can be used to calibrate displays. i use Calman. all require an instrument of some kind):
http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457

Best,
jeff
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