Official Sharp AQUOS LC-60LE847U & LC-70LE847U Owners Thread - Page 40 - AVS Forum
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post #1171 of 2660 Old 07-26-2012, 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by mavantix View Post

I've called Comcast three times tonight. The first lady who answered told me "those settings for audio are in your TV" and then hung up on me. The second couldn't look up my account. The third tech tried everything under the sun, including everything I already knew like the User Settings menu, and we couldn't find an option to change audio output type. Comcast tech on twitter replied saying that the audio output format cannot be changed. So now I'm stuck with a TV that doesn't work with my STB, so since I cannot switch the TV, I guess I'm switching to Fios.

Yeah the lady I talked to tried to get me to change the usual audio settings that are easily accessible but don't fix the problem. Luckily a Fios Tech that came to my house years ago showed me how to access the user settings that the techs use. But it had been so long I forgot the remote key presses to access the settings. I guess I convinced her I knew what I was talking about so she spoke to a level 2 tech who told me how to access the settings.
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post #1172 of 2660 Old 07-26-2012, 11:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtnerd View Post

There is a button on the remote called "view mode" which does exactly what you want (I think you know already, but it wasn't clear). The critical thing is what your cable box is outputting. If it is set to always output 1080i (you mentioned previously that you TiVo was set to this mode), the TV never receives an SD signal, and therefore the stretching modes it provides is different. You'll want a "passthrough" mode from the cable box if you want the TV to get the raw SD signal, so the TV will be able to intelligently determine the picture size (currently it thinks the picture is always 1920x1080). This will also require that the TV do the up-scaling instead of the TiVo, and I can't say for certain which would be better at the task.
If you have the TV in dot-by-dot mode (as you indicated), the TV won't "overscan", and you could see some artifacts because of this. I have noticed this on a few SD stations, but never on HD stations.
As to your picture issues, I would turn off Quad Pixel Plus, and Motion Enhancement. A few other people on this board seem to like one of the 120hz modes, so I would try them all. Its going to be tough to gauge with a cable input regardless, as it is the most unpredictable in terms of quality. When I first got the TV, I watched the Champions League final and it was absolutely terrible, the ball was blurry, etc. It was definitely the signal quality from Fox, because other soccer/basketball games have looked much better and not exhibited the same blurriness (its possible that I am "used" to it now, but I doubt it as it was very annoying). I think you will want to try a blu-ray, the picture should be extremely good. If you still don't like the picture after putting on a blu-ray, then the TV just isn't for you.

Thanks so much for the feedback .... to touch on the viewing mode and how the the tv persieves the input I will mess with that a bit and see what I can come up with .... The lines on both sides of the screen I have only seen a few times but it showed up on one of my main shows last night for the entire hour and drove me insane and really ruined the show for me unfortunately.

Now as far as making changes to the film mode, quad pixel, motion enhancement, etc. ... I have tried it ALL ... I have taken many of the users settings here (and tried all of CG's settings) and though the ghosting/blur got a bit better when I brought down the sharpness and up'ed the contrast it is still way to bad for ... the worst part is football .. I am a football junkie and this tv does not do good AT ALL on football. Way to much ghosting and motion blur and no matter what settings I try or turn on or off I can't get it to look good at all. I did notice that the feed definitely plays a part since I saw the USA basketball game on one channel that looked insanely horrible and when I saw highlights on espn it looked a lot better ... but no matter what it still always looks looks bad when there's even just a little bit of ghosting. Really wish this wasn't happening cause I love the size of this TV.

But the other bad thing is the settings I have to put this tv at to really reduce that ghosting makes almost every other program look like crap really. The high contrast, higher brightness and low sharpness makes for a rough looking picture ... when I first got this the picture looked great on many programs ... but now it really doesn't and I would not to have to switch settigns everytime I switch from a regular program to s sporting event.

And to answer your question about watching a bluray to enjoy the tv .... I Totally Agree!!!! Blurays and 3D looks AMAZING! Even watching AVCHD or a compressed .MKV movie look amazing ... but a full blown Bluray of Dark Knight when full screen IMAX pops up is WOW .... ya its a great TV I think for many different programs and Shines with full uncompressed feed like from Bluray etc. and Avatar in 3D looks KILLER ...... BUT ... I am a sports nut and this TV is a Mega No Go for sports unfortunately.

I will keep try some different things but football pre-season starts next Sunday and I see the Rear Array Local Dimming Top end Vizio I bought 2 years ago moving back into the living room from bedroom and this going back and me starting on another search for a new maybe 65" set ... I love the 70" But 65 is the biggest for any other tv so I guess I will have to go a bit smaller. Hopefully they will come out with the 9 series that I have ready will be rear full array with local dimming and has the elite chip ... If those come out this summer sometime like they said I hope those will be way better and be good for my sporting vents.

Thanks SO much for the feedback guys ,,, I love the members here at AVS and I hope I find something that fits my needs in the near future. smile.gif
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post #1173 of 2660 Old 07-27-2012, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mavantix View Post

I too have the audio mute / sync issue, and Sharp tech support told me to set audio to L-PCM instead of dolby digital, however I have Comcast and cannot find anything about changing the audio output type. I've tried every setting I can find in the Cisco RNG200 STB and even the user menu doesn't have this option. Latest 303U firmware did not resolve, new HDMI cables, etc. Anyone know how to change Comcast audio output type? Thanks!



From the STB manual..

Important Notes Regarding the HDMI Interface on the Set-Top
The HDMI interface automatically confi gures the audio output for a format supported by the television. Because not all
TVs support the Dolby Digital input, the HDMI interface may automatically select a 2-channel stereo audio confi guration
instead of Dolby Digital, which it carries over to the other digital audio outputs of the set-top. This prevents your home
theater system or Dolby Digital decoder from providing the full Dolby Digital surround-sound effect.

You can override this confi guration by completing the following steps.
1. Press SETTINGS twice on the remote control to open the General Settings menu.
2. Press MOVE UP or MOVE DOWN to select the option Audio: Digital Out.
3. Press MOVE RIGHT to select Dolby Digital. This setting will send Dolby Digital audio to the HDMI, DIGITAL
AUDIO OUT, and OPTICAL AUDIO OUT connectors on the set-top.


From reading the above, it does not seem that your box has the L-PCM audio option, but try it, you never know.
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post #1174 of 2660 Old 07-28-2012, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mavantix View Post

I've called Comcast three times tonight. The first lady who answered told me "those settings for audio are in your TV" and then hung up on me. The second couldn't look up my account. The third tech tried everything under the sun, including everything I already knew like the User Settings menu, and we couldn't find an option to change audio output type. Comcast tech on twitter replied saying that the audio output format cannot be changed. So now I'm stuck with a TV that doesn't work with my STB, so since I cannot switch the TV, I guess I'm switching to Fios.

What does your picture look like when watching a blu-ray disc?
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post #1175 of 2660 Old 07-29-2012, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtbdevs View Post

From the STB manual..
Important Notes Regarding the HDMI Interface on the Set-Top
The HDMI interface automatically confi gures the audio output for a format supported by the television. Because not all
TVs support the Dolby Digital input, the HDMI interface may automatically select a 2-channel stereo audio confi guration
instead of Dolby Digital, which it carries over to the other digital audio outputs of the set-top. This prevents your home
theater system or Dolby Digital decoder from providing the full Dolby Digital surround-sound effect.
You can override this confi guration by completing the following steps.
1. Press SETTINGS twice on the remote control to open the General Settings menu.
2. Press MOVE UP or MOVE DOWN to select the option Audio: Digital Out.
3. Press MOVE RIGHT to select Dolby Digital. This setting will send Dolby Digital audio to the HDMI, DIGITAL
AUDIO OUT, and OPTICAL AUDIO OUT connectors on the set-top.
From reading the above, it does not seem that your box has the L-PCM audio option, but try it, you never know.

Yes, there is no option to change it to L-PCM and Comcast has confirmed this. Since them problem is really the TV, and Sharp tech support has been no help, I'm not really sure what to do to get the issue resolved. I suppose switching to Fios is my only option, though it will actually cost me more since Comcast put me on a sweet 1 year deal when Fios moved into the neighborhood. I've owned 4 Sharp TVs, and still have 3. One I returned because of bad picture and upgraded to this one, yet it's audio issue makes it really a frustrating TV to use.
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post #1176 of 2660 Old 07-30-2012, 06:27 AM
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Call Fios and tell them you'll drop Comcast if they offer you a deal. They gave me Showtime, Movie Channel and Cinemax free for a year.
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post #1177 of 2660 Old 07-31-2012, 03:46 PM
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Ok, i have had this tv for a while now and today i finally go around to attempt to program the remote to turn on my denon surround sound. I have read the tv's instructions on how to program the remote but nothing happens, no blinking lights, its like i am not program mode. I have the remote with the red netflix button toward the bottom. Has anyone else had success programming this remote and how? Not even sure if the remote even supports this receiver or not but that is secondary to the fact i cant even get into the program mode. Does anyone know if you can scan to see if you can find a code that works?
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post #1178 of 2660 Old 07-31-2012, 05:34 PM
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You don't need to program your remote to work with your receiver. Does your Denon receiver support HDMI-CEC? HDMI-CEC in your receiver, blu-ray disc player and other devices, works together with aquos link in the tv. Check page 57 in the operations manual for the lc70le847. The remote for your tv can only control the audio and power on/off for your receiver when HDMI CEC is engaged in the receiver and tv. I tried it, and it does work, but I prefer my harmony one remote. Please post the model number of your Denon. Thanks.

Aquos Link:









http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI-CEC#CEC

CEC

Consumer Electronics Control (CEC) is an HDMI feature designed to allow the user to command and control up-to ten CEC-enabled devices, that are connected through HDMI,[92][93] by using only one of their remote controls (for example by controlling a television set, set-top box, and DVD player using only the remote control of the TV).[94] CEC also allows for individual CEC-enabled devices to command and control each other without user intervention.[94][95][96][97][98][99][100]

It is a one-wire bidirectional serial bus that uses the industry-standard AV.link protocol to perform remote control functions. CEC wiring is mandatory, although implementation of CEC in a product is optional.[78] It was defined in HDMI Specification 1.0 and updated in HDMI 1.2, HDMI 1.2a and HDMI 1.3a (which added timer and audio commands to the bus).[94][101][102][103][104] USB to CEC Adapters exist that allow a computer to control CEC enabled devices.[105][106][107][108]

Trade names for CEC are Anynet+ (Samsung); Aquos Link (Sharp); BRAVIA Link and BRAVIA Sync (Sony); HDMI-CEC (Hitachi); E-link (AOC); Kuro Link (Pioneer); CE-Link and Regza Link (Toshiba); RIHD (Remote Interactive over HDMI) (Onkyo); RuncoLink (Runco International); SimpLink (LG); HDAVI Control, EZ-Sync, VIERA Link (Panasonic); EasyLink (Philips); and NetCommand for HDMI (Mitsubishi).[109][110][111][112][113]

The following is a list of HDMI-CEC commands:

One Touch Play: allows devices to switch the TV to use it as the active source when playback starts
System Standby enables users to switch multiple devices to standby mode with the press of one button
Preset Transfer: transfers the tuner channel setup to another TV set
One Touch Record allows users to record whatever is currently being shown on the HDTV screen on a selected recording device
Timer Programming allows users to use the electronic program guides (EPGs) that are built into many HDTVs and set-top-boxes to program the timer in recording devices like PVRs and DVRs
System Information: checks all components for bus addresses and configuration
Deck Control allows a component to interrogate and control the operation (play, pause, rewind etc.), of a playback component (Blu-ray or HD DVD player or a Camcorder, etc.)
Tuner Control allows a component to control the tuner of another component
OSD Display: use the OSD of the TV set to display text
Device Menu Control allows a component to control the menu system of another component by passing through the user interface (UI) commands
Routing Control: control the switching of signal sources
Remote Control Pass Through allows remote control commands to be passed through to other devices within the system
Device OSD Name Transfer: transfer the preferred device names to the TV set
System Audio Control allows the volume of an AV receiver, integrated amplifier or pre-amplifier to be controlled using any remote control from a suitably-equipped device(s) in the system
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post #1179 of 2660 Old 08-02-2012, 07:51 AM
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So I've been tweaking my calibration settings as much as I could as I prefer a very bright picture which I'm sure is not within normal cal rates. Below are my settings, but I think there something a bit 'pixely'. Anyone have any suggestions as to what I can do to get it not so grainy?

AV Mode: Movie
OPC.......................Off
Backlight ................+14
Contrast ................+35
Brightness...............+9
Color......................+17
Tint.......................+2
Sharpness...............+9
Color Temp...............Mid-High
Motion Enhance........Off
Quad Pixel...............Off
Active Contrast........Off
Gamma................... -1
Film Mode...............Advanced
Digital NR ................Off

FYI - view mode dot-by-dot & this is for the 70LE847U

My List
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post #1180 of 2660 Old 08-02-2012, 09:59 AM
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Switch to Standard Mode and work from there -- it emphasizes brightness over all other values.
The only thing you sacrifice is a uniformity of white temperature -- it will tend towards blue at the high end no matter what you do.
Otherwise, it makes for a very enjoyable picture. You'll probably need to go into the CMS and reduce the Red, Magenta and Yellow to avoid clipping.
This is based on my experience with the LC-70LE845U model, but it may be valid.
I finally gave up on Standard Mode in favor of User mode because I can get a uniform white.
It required me to turn the backlight up from 50% with Standard to 75% with User.
Good luck!
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post #1181 of 2660 Old 08-02-2012, 10:59 AM
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I recently purchased a 60LC847LE. I have been having audio syncing problems as well. I had a a STB QIP6416 and replaced it with a QIP 7232-P2, both made by motorola. My service is FIOS. After I changed STBs, much of the audio is now out of sync whether watching the DVR or live TV. I have not been able to change the audio output to L-PCM because the STB is different than the one with the fix directions in this post. I can get to the STB menu but it only takes me to a diagnostics page with no options to change anything. I just spent almost 2 hours with verizon but they were not able to help. Anyone have this STB with the directions to fix the problem? Appreciate any help. Thanks
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post #1182 of 2660 Old 08-02-2012, 12:58 PM
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Mine was corrected two days ago when the TV updated the software by itself. I turned on the TV and it stated that it found new software to download. Once that was done, the sync problem went away for me. Hope it stays that way.
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post #1183 of 2660 Old 08-03-2012, 05:26 PM
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Had my tv exchanged for clouding and now the new one is doing something weird. It shuts off or loses sync for a couple seconds then comes back on. Does this about once a day.
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post #1184 of 2660 Old 08-04-2012, 01:58 PM
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Just got a 70le847u. My initial reaction is that I am a little let down. My friend has the 70 non 3d version (dont know the model number) and his picture was substantially "sharper" than mine. I'm just not wowed yet as I was with his. I am coming from a passive LG which I sent back for terrible backlight bleed (55LM8600, notorious for it) and the amount of crosstalk/ghosting that this set has is terrible. Maybe I got spoiled by the passive 3d of the LG, but something like Despicable Me is unwatchable, and I too am one who bought this set for 3d since I own at least 10 3d titles. The 2d picture so far hasnt blown away the LG I had and thats with using GC's settings. The picture just looks dull. Like I am watching a picture on an old rear projection set. This is with both my ps3 and my panny bdt-210. Maybe I need to adjust the settings on my ps3 now for this set? If anyone has a ps3 what are your display settings on the ps3? Any other settings on the TV menu to sharpen up the picture?
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post #1185 of 2660 Old 08-05-2012, 07:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brahby View Post

Just got a 70le847u. My initial reaction is that I am a little let down. My friend has the 70 non 3d version (dont know the model number) and his picture was substantially "sharper" than mine. I'm just not wowed yet as I was with his. I am coming from a passive LG which I sent back for terrible backlight bleed (55LM8600, notorious for it) and the amount of crosstalk/ghosting that this set has is terrible. Maybe I got spoiled by the passive 3d of the LG, but something like Despicable Me is unwatchable, and I too am one who bought this set for 3d since I own at least 10 3d titles. The 2d picture so far hasnt blown away the LG I had and thats with using GC's settings. The picture just looks dull. Like I am watching a picture on an old rear projection set. This is with both my ps3 and my panny bdt-210. Maybe I need to adjust the settings on my ps3 now for this set? If anyone has a ps3 what are your display settings on the ps3? Any other settings on the TV menu to sharpen up the picture?

I just got the same model a few days ago. I also am not impressed with the 2D picture. But, I believe with an edge lit LCD, this is about all anyone can expect. I suggest you search this thread for various calibration settings other people have posted here. I tried a couple and it definitely helped. I also checked the settings using a calibration Blu-ray disc (I used Disney's WoW). I also have a PS3 and haven't noticed any aberrations between it and my Cable box or my HTPC. The display seems fairly consistent between the 3.

I think right now my main concern is the viewing angle drop off. I can notice the saturation dropping off at around 30 degrees off angle. I am still deciding whether I will be keeping this or taking advantage of my 30 day return policy and sending it back. But, what do I get in it's place? Something like Sharp's Elite series is just too expensive. I had a Samsung plasma that had a great picture (up until it died) but it used over 300 watts and generated so much heat, it heated up the entire room. So, I would hate to go back to plasma.

TCP65VT30

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post #1186 of 2660 Old 08-05-2012, 08:56 AM
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Tpro8 do you have the RGB range in display settings set to limited or full. I switched mine from limited to full and I feel like it improved the "haziness" I was previously seeing. The ghosting/crosstalk my be a complete source issue since my copy of avatar 3d had very very little crosstalk in it. I guess maybe I never saw that much in despicable me because it was previously viewed on my passive set. Clouding is something I want to give like a week or so to see if it maybe settles. I still think I should probably call Sharp right away and let them know I'm planning on giving it a week to clear up but just that I want to
Open a case for it now. I read through this whole thread over the course of about a week but I forget if anyone has actually rolled it out with a paint roller and if you did the whole screen or just the spots that had clouding and if it was rolled outwards towards the edge of the screen or inwards towards the center
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post #1187 of 2660 Old 08-05-2012, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brahby View Post

Tpro8 do you have the RGB range in display settings set to limited or full. I switched mine from limited to full and I feel like it improved the "haziness" I was previously seeing. The ghosting/crosstalk my be a complete source issue since my copy of avatar 3d had very very little crosstalk in it. I guess maybe I never saw that much in despicable me because it was previously viewed on my passive set. Clouding is something I want to give like a week or so to see if it maybe settles. I still think I should probably call Sharp right away and let them know I'm planning on giving it a week to clear up but just that I want to
Open a case for it now. I read through this whole thread over the course of about a week but I forget if anyone has actually rolled it out with a paint roller and if you did the whole screen or just the spots that had clouding and if it was rolled outwards towards the edge of the screen or inwards towards the center

To be honest I haven't really run the TV in 3D mode much. I don't use 3D very often. I don't see the option you mentioned on my menu. Nothing at all refers to RGB. Are you by chance using the PC input? I'm using strictly HDMI.

My previous TV - a Samsung PN58C8000 (58" plasma) was also 3D. So, after reading your post I just watched a bit of Avatar 3D and some London Olympics in 3D on the 70LE847U and did a comparison.
* The Sharp has better depth. The Samsung I had before had regular "planes" of depth. It's hard to describe, but it was more noticeable with TV broadcasts. Objects would seem to fall into several planes of depth. The Sharp doesn't appear to suffer from that.
* There is noticeable judder with the Sharp. I tried various settings with Film Mode, etc and seemed to get rid of most of it, but it's still there in some scenes.
* I see only very little cross talk. I really have to look for it (goes for both Avatar and the Olympic broadcast)
* The brightness is much better than the Samsung plasma.

TCP65VT30

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post #1188 of 2660 Old 08-05-2012, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tpro8 View Post

To be honest I haven't really run the TV in 3D mode much. I don't use 3D very often. I don't see the option you mentioned on my menu. Nothing at all refers to RGB. Are you by chance using the PC input? I'm using strictly HDMI.
My previous TV - a Samsung PN58C8000 (58" plasma) was also 3D. So, after reading your post I just watched a bit of Avatar 3D and some London Olympics in 3D on the 70LE847U and did a comparison.
* The Sharp has better depth. The Samsung I had before had regular "planes" of depth. It's hard to describe, but it was more noticeable with TV broadcasts. Objects would seem to fall into several planes of depth. The Sharp doesn't appear to suffer from that.
* There is noticeable judder with the Sharp. I tried various settings with Film Mode, etc and seemed to get rid of most of it, but it's still there in some scenes.
* I see only very little cross talk. I really have to look for it (goes for both Avatar and the Olympic broadcast)
* The brightness is much better than the Samsung plasma.

The RGB settings are under displays settings on the ps3 menu
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post #1189 of 2660 Old 08-06-2012, 06:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myoda View Post

You don't need to program your remote to work with your receiver. Does your Denon receiver support HDMI-CEC? HDMI-CEC in your receiver, blu-ray disc player and other devices, works together with aquos link in the tv. Check page 57 in the operations manual for the lc70le847. The remote for your tv can only control the audio and power on/off for your receiver when HDMI CEC is engaged in the receiver and tv. I tried it, and it does work, but I prefer my harmony one remote. Please post the model number of your Denon. Thanks.
Aquos Link:



http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI-CEC#CEC
CEC
Consumer Electronics Control (CEC) is an HDMI feature designed to allow the user to command and control up-to ten CEC-enabled devices, that are connected through HDMI,[92][93] by using only one of their remote controls (for example by controlling a television set, set-top box, and DVD player using only the remote control of the TV).[94] CEC also allows for individual CEC-enabled devices to command and control each other without user intervention.[94][95][96][97][98][99][100]
It is a one-wire bidirectional serial bus that uses the industry-standard AV.link protocol to perform remote control functions. CEC wiring is mandatory, although implementation of CEC in a product is optional.[78] It was defined in HDMI Specification 1.0 and updated in HDMI 1.2, HDMI 1.2a and HDMI 1.3a (which added timer and audio commands to the bus).[94][101][102][103][104] USB to CEC Adapters exist that allow a computer to control CEC enabled devices.[105][106][107][108]
Trade names for CEC are Anynet+ (Samsung); Aquos Link (Sharp); BRAVIA Link and BRAVIA Sync (Sony); HDMI-CEC (Hitachi); E-link (AOC); Kuro Link (Pioneer); CE-Link and Regza Link (Toshiba); RIHD (Remote Interactive over HDMI) (Onkyo); RuncoLink (Runco International); SimpLink (LG); HDAVI Control, EZ-Sync, VIERA Link (Panasonic); EasyLink (Philips); and NetCommand for HDMI (Mitsubishi).[109][110][111][112][113]
The following is a list of HDMI-CEC commands:
One Touch Play: allows devices to switch the TV to use it as the active source when playback starts
System Standby enables users to switch multiple devices to standby mode with the press of one button
Preset Transfer: transfers the tuner channel setup to another TV set
One Touch Record allows users to record whatever is currently being shown on the HDTV screen on a selected recording device
Timer Programming allows users to use the electronic program guides (EPGs) that are built into many HDTVs and set-top-boxes to program the timer in recording devices like PVRs and DVRs
System Information: checks all components for bus addresses and configuration
Deck Control allows a component to interrogate and control the operation (play, pause, rewind etc.), of a playback component (Blu-ray or HD DVD player or a Camcorder, etc.)
Tuner Control allows a component to control the tuner of another component
OSD Display: use the OSD of the TV set to display text
Device Menu Control allows a component to control the menu system of another component by passing through the user interface (UI) commands
Routing Control: control the switching of signal sources
Remote Control Pass Through allows remote control commands to be passed through to other devices within the system
Device OSD Name Transfer: transfer the preferred device names to the TV set
System Audio Control allows the volume of an AV receiver, integrated amplifier or pre-amplifier to be controlled using any remote control from a suitably-equipped device(s) in the system

The third picture seems to have really bad motion blur....her hands are all blurred out..It's really not that bad is it?

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post #1190 of 2660 Old 08-06-2012, 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by silver1998 View Post

I recently purchased a 60LC847LE. I have been having audio syncing problems as well. I had a a STB QIP6416 and replaced it with a QIP 7232-P2, both made by motorola. My service is FIOS. After I changed STBs, much of the audio is now out of sync whether watching the DVR or live TV. I have not been able to change the audio output to L-PCM because the STB is different than the one with the fix directions in this post. I can get to the STB menu but it only takes me to a diagnostics page with no options to change anything. I just spent almost 2 hours with verizon but they were not able to help. Anyone have this STB with the directions to fix the problem? Appreciate any help. Thanks

qtbevs replied this fix but for some reason it was not posted to the forum. "With your STB on hit Power, Select and Menu." That should get you into user settings. This is the fix given to me by Sharp tech support but I couldn't use it as my remote has no Select button. That's why Power, OK and Menu worked for me. Once you're in go to Advanced HDMI settings and change Audio from Auto to L-PCM. Hope it works. BTW saw my first 3D BluRay on my 70LC845U "Underworld Awakening" and the 3D was amazing!
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post #1191 of 2660 Old 08-06-2012, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by maximuslcd View Post

The third picture seems to have really bad motion blur....her hands are all blurred out..It's really not that bad is it?

It's not motion blur - her hands were moving as I took the picture and the motion was faster than my camera could capture. If I had paused my DVR there would not be blurring. If you still frame a Pixar movie, there is motion blur built in to achieve the illusion of motion.
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post #1192 of 2660 Old 08-06-2012, 10:38 AM
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Thanks....still on the fence on getting the 845 or waiting it out on the 945...tired of waiting. I would just think if the 945 was coming soon it would be announced

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post #1193 of 2660 Old 08-06-2012, 10:38 AM
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About Clouding and Flashlighting...a possible fix?

Hi all,

I posted 3 weeks ago or so, about my clouding and flashlight issues. I returned the set and got the Samsung EH7050 (60"). It too had the issues, perhaps worse. In searching the Internet there was a post about loosening the screws on the back of the set as they were too tight. So I did that and it really was quite amazing. The other thing that the Samsung does is microdimming, and this does help, especially on letterbox. In fact Samsung has a bug that microdimming does not work in the "Movie" mode. I was able to see a difference from standard mode and movie mode, somewhat confirming the value of microdimming.

The wife does not like the glossy screen. So I am thinking about the Sharp again, as I also got the picture pretty well dialed in on the Sharp.

So a question, has anyone tried loosening the screws on the Sharp?
( Samsung's issues were very corner related. My Sharp had a cloud blob in the lower center, so I don't think screw loosening will be as helpful)

Hoping to hear a positive result.....
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post #1194 of 2660 Old 08-06-2012, 11:08 AM
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I appreciate your assistance. I have updated the TV software and followed your advice regarding the STB. The syncing problem is pretty much eliminated on most channels. BTW, what setting do you have the STB on for Lip Sync? Thanks
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post #1195 of 2660 Old 08-06-2012, 12:20 PM
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I appreciate your assistance. I have updated the TV software and followed your advice regarding the STB. The syncing problem is pretty much eliminated on most channels. BTW, what setting do you have the STB on for Lip Sync? Thanks

qtbevs deserves most of the credit. I'm glad I was able to help some too. My STB doesn't have a Lip Sync setting. When I have lip syncing issues one of these fixes works for me. The Previous or Reverse button on the Fios remote or a STB reboot.
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post #1196 of 2660 Old 08-06-2012, 12:28 PM
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Had my tv exchanged for clouding and now the new one is doing something weird. It shuts off or loses sync for a couple seconds then comes back on. Does this about once a day.
Mine was powering itself off and this worked for me. In the Power Control Menu I turned Power Saving Off, Disabled No Signal Off and Disabled No Operation Off.
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post #1197 of 2660 Old 08-06-2012, 01:13 PM
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I have had my LC-70C8470U from Sam's Club for 5 days. I used CGGorman's first settings, and made a couple small adjustments to suit my environment. I have not noticed any clouding, and at this point I am very happy with the tv. I watched IMAX Under the Sea in 3D with the wife, and she was duly impressed, as was I. I have watched several hours of the Olympics on Direct and it looks great. I haven't had the time to watch the Olympics in 3D yet, but it is available to me.

I will be a happy camper when college football starts!

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post #1198 of 2660 Old 08-06-2012, 08:59 PM
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Hi folks

I'm planning on excchanging Samsung 55ES7500 TV to 70 Sharp however i confuse on which one to get among to get?
735? someone mention the backlight offer better picture?
745?
847?

Can someone advise on this?

Thanks.
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post #1199 of 2660 Old 08-06-2012, 09:31 PM
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Yeah I know what you mean , not trying to cause any riffs they all have their strong points as well weaknesses . I just wish they would have stayed with the full back array but that was to be the 945 & it's delayed . rumored to be an issue with local dimming

i'm on the same boat, 735 is $200 cheaper than 847. 735 is back lit and picture quality I research is better than 847?

WHich one should i get. please advise.

Thanks
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post #1200 of 2660 Old 08-07-2012, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by homerunkevin View Post

i'm on the same boat, 735 is $200 cheaper than 847. 735 is back lit and picture quality I research is better than 847?
WHich one should i get. please advise.
Thanks


I had a 632, 732, and currently have the 847. I thought going from a full backlit, to edge lit would be a huge difference. For me personally, there wasn't one. The 632 & 732 had clouding issues, which is why Sharp replaced with the 847.

My 847 has a slight flash lighting in lower left, but I only can see it when no signal is present, so no issue. I also had an easier time dialing in a acceptable picture with the 847.

I'm 100% satisfied with my 847.
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