Official 2012 Sharp LC-XXLE640U/XXC6400U - Page 42 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1231 of 1386 Old 08-14-2013, 01:54 AM
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The DVD disc is what I used and it is adequate.
Washed out colors might be a wrong gamma setting...
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post #1232 of 1386 Old 08-14-2013, 04:42 PM
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The CNET's settings worked really well on my 640U using AV Mode/ USER 1. Very happy with the set.

http://reviews.cnet.com/flat-panel-tvs/sharp-lc-60le640u/4505-6482_7-35123266.html?autoplay=true
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post #1233 of 1386 Old 08-14-2013, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dee zee View Post

The CNET's settings worked really well on my 640U using AV Mode/ USER 1. Very happy with the set.

http://reviews.cnet.com/flat-panel-tvs/sharp-lc-60le640u/4505-6482_7-35123266.html?autoplay=true

CNET's settings were calibrated in the movie mode... Meaning you are probably not looking at best settings for your mode. Settings are not always "perfectly" transferable between sets even in the same mode, but definitely not between modes. I calibrated 3 different modes on this TV, and each required different settings... Did you try CNET's movie mode settings actually in the intended movie mode? Just curious...
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post #1234 of 1386 Old 08-17-2013, 08:07 AM
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Zmad, any suggestions on settings if gamma is raised to +2. -2 is a little to dark for my liking.
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post #1235 of 1386 Old 08-17-2013, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cp22 View Post

Zmad, any suggestions on settings if gamma is raised to +2. -2 is a little to dark for my liking.

cp22, well from the proper calibration standpoint I couldn't recommend anything higher than -2. Here is why:
The reference calibration is done to gamma measurement of 2.2 (higher means darker). This is the optimal gamma for in-home TV's. Movie theaters are calibrated to darker gamma like 2.4 or so, which would be too dark for in home viewing unless you have a completely dark home theater yourself smile.gif For nighttime viewing, one would want to calibrate maybe slightly darker than daytime settings (say 2.3 gamma).

Now where is Sharp's 640U gamma in all this? Game mode allows reaching only a gamma of 2.0 (remember lower number means actually brighter grayscale and more washed out picture), and that's with gamma slider set on -2. So if you are using the game mode, you are already brighter than the reference. 2.0 is still acceptable though, especially in brighter conditions, but changing the gamma slider to anything else than -2 starts moving you into area of too light grayscale and too low gamma (the +2 gamma setting on 640U measures maybe only 1.8 or even 1.6 gamma, which is way off from where you'd wonna be).

Movie mode does allow reaching the reference 2.2 gamma (or just about 2.2), again with the gamma slider set on -2. So overall, this TV has too light gamma by default and requires the -2 gamma slider adjustment just to get close to where it should be.

Now, without using a meter and actually measuring your gamma, I can't say if you may or may not need to adjust the gamma setting, although this is something I would expect to be consistent enough between sets that the same setting of -2 should apply. So at this point it becomes a matter of your preference, but try not to get too light and washed out, which causes loss of depth in your picture...

I'd probably recommend to look into your dynamic range instead: contrast and brightness settings. "Contrast" will adjust the brightness of your whites and determine how white will your brightest white be (too high makes you loose white details though: say in a scene with a person wearing a white shirt you may not see the pleats and wrinkles on the shirt but just a bright white surface, which means loss of white detail). "Brightness" setting on the other hand adjusts your blacks and determines how dark your darkest black will be. So opposite of contrast setting: if you go too low with brightness, in a scene with a guy wearing a black shirt you may not see the pleats and wrinkles but just a black surface, i.e. loss of dark detail.

Also, you might bump the backlight setting even higher and get more light output, which might be what you are trying to get? The +8 setting I use puts out 40 fL (which is good for daytime and not too bright for nighttime either). One can go even higher (say +12 or even +14) and get closer to 50 fL light output. I'd only worry that that much light will increase some clouding and enhance the screen uniformity issues of this TV...

Anyway, hope this gives you a few things to play with and see what works for you...
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post #1236 of 1386 Old 08-17-2013, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z-Mad View Post

CNET's settings were calibrated in the movie mode... Meaning you are probably not looking at best settings for your mode. Settings are not always "perfectly" transferable between sets even in the same mode, but definitely not between modes. I calibrated 3 different modes on this TV, and each required different settings... Did you try CNET's movie mode settings actually in the intended movie mode? Just curious...

I tried CNET settings in Movie mode but they looked better in User mode on my set.
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post #1237 of 1386 Old 08-17-2013, 11:04 AM
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While we're on the subject of settings, here are the settings I achieved last week with an i1Pro spectrometer, which is a better and more precise than the C3 meter I used before. So slight tweaks again, which may not generate a huge difference from last settings, but since they are measured a bit more precisely with a better meter, here they are:

AV MODE: GAME
OPC: Off
Backlight: +8 (40 fL light output))
Contrast: +29
Brightness: +1
Color: +8
Tint: +3
Sharpness: 0

--Advanced sub-menu

C.M.S. -Hue
R: -10
Y: +10
G: -12
C: -8
B: -20
M: +8

C.M.S. -Saturation
R: -20
Y: -15
G: -29
C: -19
B: +8
M: -21

C.M.S. -Value
R: +10
Y: -3
G: +17
C: -2
B: +12
M: +5

Color Temp: Low
R Gain (LO): -2
G Gain (LO): -16
B Gain (LO): -30
R Gain (HI): -12
G Gain (HI): -19
B Gain (HI): -30

Motion Enhancement: [grayed out]
Active Contrast: Off
Gamma Adjustment: -2
Black Level: [grayed out]
Film Mode: [grayed out]
Digital Noise Reduction: Off
Monochrome: Off
Range of OPC: [any]
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post #1238 of 1386 Old 08-17-2013, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dee zee View Post

I tried CNET settings in Movie mode but they looked better in User mode on my set.

I see... A bit surprising, but whatever works I guess...
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post #1239 of 1386 Old 08-17-2013, 05:21 PM
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I tried all the modes with different settings, the ones posted here and also used the Disney Wow blu. Went back to the CNET settings Tweaked everything a bit and my set looks great.
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post #1240 of 1386 Old 08-17-2013, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dee zee View Post

I tried all the modes with different settings, the ones posted here and also used the Disney Wow blu. Went back to the CNET settings Tweaked everything a bit and my set looks great.

Yeah, the Disney WOW is said to be a good calibration DVD. If you used it and made some tweaks, that makes more sense now smile.gif
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post #1241 of 1386 Old 08-20-2013, 03:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z-Mad View Post

cp22, well from the proper calibration standpoint I couldn't recommend anything higher than -2. Here is why:
The reference calibration is done to gamma measurement of 2.2 (higher means darker). This is the optimal gamma for in-home TV's. Movie theaters are calibrated to darker gamma like 2.4 or so, which would be too dark for in home viewing unless you have a completely dark home theater yourself smile.gif For nighttime viewing, one would want to calibrate maybe slightly darker than daytime settings (say 2.3 gamma).

Now where is Sharp's 640U gamma in all this? Game mode allows reaching only a gamma of 2.0 (remember lower number means actually brighter grayscale and more washed out picture), and that's with gamma slider set on -2. So if you are using the game mode, you are already brighter than the reference. 2.0 is still acceptable though, especially in brighter conditions, but changing the gamma slider to anything else than -2 starts moving you into area of too light grayscale and too low gamma (the +2 gamma setting on 640U measures maybe only 1.8 or even 1.6 gamma, which is way off from where you'd wonna be).

Movie mode does allow reaching the reference 2.2 gamma (or just about 2.2), again with the gamma slider set on -2. So overall, this TV has too light gamma by default and requires the -2 gamma slider adjustment just to get close to where it should be.

Now, without using a meter and actually measuring your gamma, I can't say if you may or may not need to adjust the gamma setting, although this is something I would expect to be consistent enough between sets that the same setting of -2 should apply. So at this point it becomes a matter of your preference, but try not to get too light and washed out, which causes loss of depth in your picture...

I'd probably recommend to look into your dynamic range instead: contrast and brightness settings. "Contrast" will adjust the brightness of your whites and determine how white will your brightest white be (too high makes you loose white details though: say in a scene with a person wearing a white shirt you may not see the pleats and wrinkles on the shirt but just a bright white surface, which means loss of white detail). "Brightness" setting on the other hand adjusts your blacks and determines how dark your darkest black will be. So opposite of contrast setting: if you go too low with brightness, in a scene with a guy wearing a black shirt you may not see the pleats and wrinkles but just a black surface, i.e. loss of dark detail.

Also, you might bump the backlight setting even higher and get more light output, which might be what you are trying to get? The +8 setting I use puts out 40 fL (which is good for daytime and not too bright for nighttime either). One can go even higher (say +12 or even +14) and get closer to 50 fL light output. I'd only worry that that much light will increase some clouding and enhance the screen uniformity issues of this TV...

Anyway, hope this gives you a few things to play with and see what works for you...
Thanks for the info.
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post #1242 of 1386 Old 08-22-2013, 08:39 PM
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I have a LC-60LE640U and recently I've been experiencing a minor issue. The Icon light stays on although the TV is off. This was not always the case. I tried playing with the icon light settings, I've disconnected and reconnected the power, and i've tried doing a reset from the menu but nothing has resolved the issue. Has anyone had this issue before? I did turn on the IP control option and controlled the tv from my phone before I started experiencing this problem, but I"m not sure if its related to that. Is there any way to do a hard reset? Please help.
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post #1243 of 1386 Old 08-23-2013, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hiawan View Post

I have a LC-60LE640U and recently I've been experiencing a minor issue. The Icon light stays on although the TV is off. This was not always the case. I tried playing with the icon light settings, I've disconnected and reconnected the power, and i've tried doing a reset from the menu but nothing has resolved the issue. Has anyone had this issue before? I did turn on the IP control option and controlled the tv from my phone before I started experiencing this problem, but I"m not sure if its related to that. Is there any way to do a hard reset? Please help.

How long did you wait before reconnecting the power cord again? For a real hard reset it is often recommended to wait a few minutes before connecting the power cable again with most devices. I'd say unplug the TV and leave it for 10 minutes or so and try again. You say you already did a restore to factory settings, or started the initial setup procedure again from the menu? Anyway, never had that happen, so can't say... Ultimately, Sharp is known for good customer service - calling them up may get you on the right track real fast... Good luck.
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post #1244 of 1386 Old 08-23-2013, 06:02 PM
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I will try leaving it unpluged for a few minutes, I've always just unplugged and re-plugged immediately.
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post #1245 of 1386 Old 08-23-2013, 10:40 PM
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cp22 (and anyone interested), you can sort of get a general idea of what your gamma is visually with help of scales like the one below. When you open the image on the screen at 100% size (so saving the image first, then opening it on the screen without changing the original image size, so don't enlarge it to full screen or anything, and make sure you're watching it at its original 100% resolution) and observe which horizontal gray bar blends in the closest with the vertical side bar. That's approximately your gamma... When you change the gamma on your TV (between -2 and +2) you will quickly see how that affects the scale and how your approximate gamma changes. Just a small visual aid that can be somewhat helpful... The target is 2.2...

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post #1246 of 1386 Old 08-23-2013, 10:45 PM
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Or this one, same procedure as above - wherever the lines within each bar blend in...

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post #1247 of 1386 Old 08-25-2013, 10:45 AM
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Zmad is there a reason why you would always have sharpness +1 but now you say 0? I personally think it does look better +1 as 0 is slightly blurred.
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post #1248 of 1386 Old 08-25-2013, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andaroo View Post

Zmad is there a reason why you would always have sharpness +1 but now you say 0? I personally think it does look better +1 as 0 is slightly blurred.

Before, I didn't have all the patterns that I have now since I got the equipment, so when checking sharpness with the proper calibration patterns, it is actually at zero that you get the best results without introducing any artifacts, especially where you have very fine picture elements/patterns close to each other (like a fine striped shirt for example). Pro calibrators generally always set the sharpness at zero practically on any TV for that reason. If you think about it, wouldn't you say that at zero the picture looks more like what you'd see in the movie theater too for example, kind of smoother and less "digitally artificial"? It actually isn't blurred at all but just right. If you are used to watching at higher sharpness setting, it would initially appear as if "blurred" in comparison, but that's not the case. I'd suggest to give it some time and watch it for a couple of days, then see how you feel about it smile.gif

However, at +1 it's not necessarily bad either and you can certainly keep it at that if you prefer in the end. Most regular content probably isn't going to have a lot of such fine elements in the picture where you will see the artifacts the calibration pattern reveals, but zero is the best calibrated setting... I'll see if I can post a nice calibration image that helps demo the sharpness...
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post #1249 of 1386 Old 08-25-2013, 09:08 PM
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Hopefully this shows up on your screen, exhibiting the difference between sharpness setting at 0 and at +1.
The first picture is taken with the sharpness set on zero. The image shows simply parallel circles getting finer and closer the farther out they are. With sharpness at zero they look "clean" without distortion.
The second picture is the exact same image but with sharpness set on +1. This already distorts the circles and you suddenly see these "additional" little circles in the corners and on the sides. These actually don't exist and are a visual distortion due to the artifacts created by increasing sharpness beyond optimal. Accordingly, zero is the optimal sharpness setting on this set... biggrin.gif

Actually if you are looking at below images on the TV screen with sharpness already set at +1, the first image will show up as the second image does on my screen, ha ha... So you could look at the images on the screen and change the sharpness to zero, then you can see what I am referring to. In any case, the second picture will show more artifacts than the first...

Pic.1 - sharpness at 0:


Pic.2 - sharpness at +1:
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post #1250 of 1386 Old 08-26-2013, 01:36 PM
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First I have to say I own a European version of 60 inch 2012 model SHARP edge LED TV, model LC60LE635. Menus and looks are almost identical to 640, no 3d etc. I have to say to Z-Mad that his calibration in Movie mode is the closest to perfect I have set up my TV till now. I tried every variation in Game mode, but there is no way in any of the above setting to achieve natural reds and greens, but in Movie mode picture is almost perfect for me. I am in search for professional calibration and then I will know where were the differences in comparison to current setup, but for now, Z-Mad's Movie calibration is great. My personal tweaks are lower backlight (from -4 to 3,, using OPC, I don't like too bright screen since my previous TV was plasma), contrast +28 and brightness +1 (using calibration disc I am sure thet above and below these values my TV clips black and white). I don't use Fine Motion Advanced too, so it is off (soccer game looks much more natural). As for input lag of 150 ms, my Blu Ray is Sony BDP-S790, with separate HDMI outputs, so I use one to send picture to TV, and the other to AV receiver, and there I set lipsync with sound delay of 150 ms, and everything is fine again smile.gif.
P.S. sorry for typo mistakes, English is not my native language smile.gif.
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post #1251 of 1386 Old 08-26-2013, 02:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by no1livz4ever View Post

First I have to say I own a European version of 60 inch 2012 model SHARP edge LED TV, model LC60LE635. Menus and looks are almost identical to 640, no 3d etc. I have to say to Z-Mad that his calibration in Movie mode is the closest to perfect I have set up my TV till now. I tried every variation in Game mode, but there is no way in any of the above setting to achieve natural reds and greens, but in Movie mode picture is almost perfect for me. I am in search for professional calibration and then I will know where were the differences in comparison to current setup, but for now, Z-Mad's Movie calibration is great. My personal tweaks are lower backlight (from -4 to 3,, using OPC, I don't like too bright screen since my previous TV was plasma), contrast +28 and brightness +1 (using calibration disc I am sure thet above and below these values my TV clips black and white). I don't use Fine Motion Advanced too, so it is off (soccer game looks much more natural). As for input lag of 150 ms, my Blu Ray is Sony BDP-S790, with separate HDMI outputs, so I use one to send picture to TV, and the other to AV receiver, and there I set lipsync with sound delay of 150 ms, and everything is fine again smile.gif.
P.S. sorry for typo mistakes, English is not my native language smile.gif.

Glad to hear you were able to utilize the settings on your European set as well, though there are usually small differences after all (like the dynamic range based on what you determined). Certainly you should be able to improve those settings yet a bit further with actual calibration performed on your TV... That's the only way to reach full potential of your TV (or get close to "perfect") smile.gif
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post #1252 of 1386 Old 09-05-2013, 09:52 AM
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Hi all. I'm a brand new owner of a new a LC70LE640U. After looking for several months for a 70 inch tv, and nearly buying a Vizio 65" on Labor Day (Monday) I saw this deal Tuesday, researched the heck out of it Tuesday afternoon/Wednesday morning and then went and picked it up. I know it is a 2012 model, but for me and the use I'm wanting (a 70 inch tv that's huge and has a great picture with HDMI) . I have zero use for Vizio (or other) apps and I have zero use for anything 3D.

I'm coming from a Zenith 61" tv from about 2002 that had an HDTV Monitor only. Yes, it got a good picture but you had to use the red, blue and green cable. It was maybe 480p or 720p, not sure.

Out of the box the pic is fantastic. I'm about to use all Z-Mad's settings this evening to really work it out. I'll post my findings later.
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post #1253 of 1386 Old 09-06-2013, 06:37 AM
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Hi again all (who's still reading this thread! lol) I hope it's not bad forum etiquette to double post but after just buying a tv, messing with it and watching it for several hours last night I have come up with a couple of questions.

1. I'm using Z-mad's game and movie mode settings. They seem fine, but to be perfectly, either my naked eye can't see well (but I have better than perfect vision) or I'm just odd....but I can't tell much of a difference between the tv's 'standard' mode and those new settings. What I can really tell is the 'Dynamic' mode. I actually really like that a lot. It's very bright and everything just pops off the screen. Maybe I need to really work on that setting and get all the motion stuff turned off b/c it was a bit blurry in the football game last night. Any thoughts? Standard mode out of the box seems brighter than both Zmad's game and movie setting. Maybe I just make that setting brighter in those two modes? Or would that mess it up? I'm VERY novice in tv settings, but I honestly enjoy the 'Standard' mode a lot, which I've read on here and multiple people are like that setting is crap. I think it's quite good....

2. I have Dish Network Hopper. What I notice is when I'm plugged into HDMI 1 it displays in 1080i. Is that a problem? I remember way back in this forum, I think, a few people mentioned that and maybe the tv itself converts it up to 1080p and it isn't a problem. Is that the case? Can the naked eye 10 feet away discern between 1080i and 1080p?

3. I have a PS3. It's plugged into HMDI 2. What I notice on it is it displays in 720p. That shows when I use the input button on the remote, then change the input and for about 3 seconds it shows what you changed it to in the top right corner. Dish says 1080i, the PS3 says 720p. How can I get that to 1080i or 1080p b/c the Playstation is supposed to be 1080p, I think? Or will it always just stay in 720p?

4. I have a Dish Network remote. I'm having problems syncing it to the tv (so it turns the tv on/off). I'm following directions to the tee on Dish Network but it never works. I'm really trying to avoid a call b/c they charge $20 just to walk in your house if there's a problem. I'm following this page: http://www.mydish.com/support/program-to-tv-scan-non-basic?WT.svl=leftnav Everything I do step #2, the remote just switches back to the SAT button. Maybe it's b/c the remote is paired up with my old tv and somehow I need to get rid of that setting first, which I'll have to look up. EDIT: Fixed this issue. Just used my Hopper control panel to sync the remote.

5. I'm looking for a tv stand/small entertainment center. I'm looking at $150-$250. Anyone have a suggestion or a pic of how they're using this tv? I've been looking at this from Wal-Mart. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Whalen-Brown-Cherry-3-Shelf-TV-Console-for-TVs-up-to-70/21984557 It's probably a lowend stand but I don't want anything fancy. I want something small like that, stylish and easy to put a Dish and PS3/4 on it.

I believer that's all after one nights use and 'messing around with.'
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post #1254 of 1386 Old 09-06-2013, 01:48 PM
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hhhmu, you mentioned you are new to all this and to playing with the settings etc, and I can only say it certainly shows... I don't mean that in a bad way, and it is not meant as an "attack" on you in any way. I will only offer you a word of advice:

The dynamic mode is the worst possible mode you can pick. Basically pretty much EVERYTHING is wrong with that mode. Many beginners make that mistake, but once they learn to appreciate the true picture quality, their perspective changes completely... But in order to be able to understand why I say that, you really should try to educate yourself a little more in imaging science and what actually a "good picture quality" really means. A hint: it has nothing to do with the scorching brightness of the dynamic mode, and has everything to do with the accuracy of the grayscale, color accuracy, correct dynamic range, depth of blacks, level of dark and light detail, appropriate amount of light output for the viewing conditions, etc. Your posts clearly show that you do not perceive any of those things (be it the dynamic or standard mode), which is ok and nothing unusual for someone new to this, so I can only encourage you to learn about all those things I mentioned. There is a lot of information in forums and online in general that I highly recommend you read upon.... Even a perfect vision is worthless if you don't know what to look for...

Example: think about your local movie theater: Does the picture look more like the dynamic range or is it closer to the calibrated settings I shared? Hopefully this alone starts giving you an idea of what to look for, provided you are truly interested in understanding what TV calibration and good settings are really all about wink.gif

Cheers...
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post #1255 of 1386 Old 09-06-2013, 02:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hhhmu View Post


2. I have Dish Network Hopper. What I notice is when I'm plugged into HDMI 1 it displays in 1080i. Is that a problem? I remember way back in this forum, I think, a few people mentioned that and maybe the tv itself converts it up to 1080p and it isn't a problem. Is that the case? Can the naked eye 10 feet away discern between 1080i and 1080p?

3. I have a PS3. It's plugged into HMDI 2. What I notice on it is it displays in 720p. That shows when I use the input button on the remote, then change the input and for about 3 seconds it shows what you changed it to in the top right corner. Dish says 1080i, the PS3 says 720p. How can I get that to 1080i or 1080p b/c the Playstation is supposed to be 1080p, I think? Or will it always just stay in 720p?

2. 1080i is what is being sent to the TV from the Hopper. The TV will display the signal being fed. Everything is being displayed at the TV's native of 1080p.

3. Change to the video output settings of the PS3 to 1080i (or 1080p, if supported).



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post #1256 of 1386 Old 09-06-2013, 02:59 PM
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Thanks for the reply Zmad. You clearly seem to be the most knowledgable (or at least one of) on this forum, at least on this tv if not in other areas too. As I admitted above, I'm VERY novice about HDTV. Mainly for the fact like I said in the first post I'm coming from a 61" 2002 Zenith HDTV Monitor that didn't use the HDMI, it used red, blue and green but still got a very crisp, HD signal. It was just a really great tv and I couldn't ever justify a new one...until now. I'm getting a PS4 and I really want the best graphics possible. I also wanted a 70 inch tv as I never thought going from a 60-65 inch would do any justice or good for me. Why spend $1000-$1300 on a Vizio range 65 inch tv when I had a perfectly working 61 inch tv? Then I stumbled across this 70 inch on a "deals" forum and jumped right on it and greatly lucked out that one was only 45 minutes away. As of now, two days later, there's not one within 500 miles in any direction of me. Clearly, everyone, where available jumped on this. Which makes perfect sense b/c it's a great tv. I looked forward to the new PS4 on it, movies and games for the next several years.

I'll be honest, I'm not interested in learning about all those specs you mentioned. I just want to be knowledgeable on the topic and when someone comes over and says I have HD but my tv doesn't look anything like this I can reply with...."Well.......and go on" I do realize that will require some basic concepts of each of the above you mentioned and I'm grateful this forum (and you) exist for a novice who needs help in every area! lol

With all that being said, I'll continue to fine tweak all the settings this weekend, watch a full day of Football Sunday (though I usually watch NFL Redzone for fantasy value) and head into next week looking to learn/know more about the tv and any questions that arise over the weekend.


Ratman:
Are you saying even though it says 1080i it's being displayed in 1080p? I was kinda confused by that. And I read a couple of articles today where people were debating if there was even much difference in 1080i and 1080p.

I will try that on the PS3 over the weekend and see if I notice or see anything different. I ran across several articles today that said the PS3 can't handle 1080p, even if you switch in the settings.
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post #1257 of 1386 Old 09-08-2013, 03:10 AM
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I just bought the 650U. I plugged in CNET's recommended settings. Mostly great, but I couldn't get past the residual SOE and unnaturally desaturated reds. So I plugged in Z-Mad's most recent settings for the 640U. Result? It's only very slightly off from the great parts of the CNET settings, but now there's no residual SOE and the reds look right. I'm pleased.
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post #1258 of 1386 Old 09-08-2013, 08:18 AM
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Zmad, any update to the Movie settings? I felt like your previous movie settings had the most accurate colours.
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post #1259 of 1386 Old 09-08-2013, 09:09 PM
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Update: using Z-Mad's settings on the LE650 under the Game mode introduced a noticeable loss of A/V sync. Using the same settings in PC mode got a very similar PQ but with minimal loss of sync.
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post #1260 of 1386 Old 09-08-2013, 09:57 PM
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hhhmu - A TV set can only display a picture in its own native resolution. Your set will take whatever the source is sending and convert it to 1080p. The information on the display is telling you the resolution of the source.
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