Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread - Page 106 - AVS Forum
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post #3151 of 16240 Old 08-27-2012, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by dad0118 View Post

I'm just running the HDMI straight from U-Verse cable box (motorola, not sure which model) to the TV. My Onkyo receiver that I use just does audio, so I can't run it through that until I upgrade.
I hear Uverse picture quality isn't the best, but now that I changed the HDMI black level it looks great to me.
I'm also using a cheap Sharp blu ray player right now, which doesn't use blu ray - However 2D looked awesome when using it yesterday. I ordered a Panasonic BDT220 which should be coming in this week.

Sounds like your Uverse box is the same as mine, it has tht issue, Motorola VIP-2262, and the VIP-1200, I've also tested the VIP-1232 as well, all of them have the black level issue.
Good for you finding the fix, when you plug other devices into the TV, you should be safe to use Normal, just be aware that low is the correct setting for that box.
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post #3152 of 16240 Old 08-27-2012, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by nitra View Post

Sounds like your Uverse box is the same as mine, it has tht issue, Motorola VIP-2262, and the VIP-1200, I've also tested the VIP-1232 as well, all of them have the black level issue.
Good for you finding the fix, when you plug other devices into the TV, you should be safe to use Normal, just be aware that low is the correct setting for that box.

I have been curious about Uverse. I too have it with the VIP 1225. I run the black level on low as well. Picture looks good with it set there. I run my PS3 directly to the set and use the AVR strictly for sound in both case.
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post #3153 of 16240 Old 08-27-2012, 10:58 AM
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Starting over! Just had the panel replaced on my 60 inch TV. Samsung was quite nice and gave me no problems in scheduling the repair--except for always putting me on hold--but after watching the "surgery" on my set, I really wonder if it would not have been cheaper for Samsung to have simply swapped my set for another one. Oh well, now I can start experimenting with settings again!
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post #3154 of 16240 Old 08-27-2012, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dad0118 View Post

This line seems to contradict itself... Why are you even posting in this thread? Don't you think that every ES8000 owner here could have chose to buy the VT50, but there were reasons why it was not chosen? I chose the ES8000, have owned both plasma and LCD, and read just about every post in each AVS forum on each TV as well as every professional review out there.
I was on the fence between the es8000 and the VT50 and did about three in store comparisons before deciding on the es8000. I had watched the two side by side and was able to compare in very dark, dark, bright, and very bright settings. I calibrated each set using settings posted on the es8000 and VT50 AVS boards before comparing.
To my eye, the VT50 looked slightly better in the dark, and the es8000 looked WAY better when light was present. So I decided on the es8000 based on picture quality alone. However, this past weekend before purchasing my wife and I went to best buy to do one last comparison. Best buy had been playing Cars on blu-ray that morning and per the salesmen the menu screen had been idle for about 30mins on each set. Upon playing the movie, I could see severe image retention on the VT50 which was noticeable on the title screens. I told my wife we would let the movie play out for about an hour and come back to see if it was still there. We left and came back in about an hour and a half and replayed the beginning where we noticed the IR and sure enough it was still just as noticeable.
Keep in mind my choice had already been made, but that definately will free me of having any second thoughts about not getting the VT50 (even though the reviews are really good). If you have a VT50 and don't have any problems with it, great, enjoy it. But don't feel the need to come into this thread and bash us because we didn't make the same choice as you.

Very odd that you used logic and comparative reasoning and still come to the decision of getting the ES8000. I would have thought that wasn't possible, based on some of the trolling going on here. wink.gif

But on a serious note, very well said.

Brandon 

 


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post #3155 of 16240 Old 08-27-2012, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paul? View Post

Starting over! Just had the panel replaced on my 60 inch TV. Samsung was quite nice and gave me no problems in scheduling the repair--except for always putting me on hold--but after watching the "surgery" on my set, I really wonder if it would not have been cheaper for Samsung to have simply swapped my set for another one. Oh well, now I can start experimenting with settings again!

Let us know what you experience quality wise and first impressions. I too have a panel that's going to be changed out here in the next couple of week. It's suppose to arrival at the shop servicing my set on 9/6.
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post #3156 of 16240 Old 08-27-2012, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Op's Guy View Post

Let us know what you experience quality wise and first impressions. I too have a panel that's going to be changed out here in the next couple of week. It's suppose to arrival at the shop servicing my set on 9/6.

Well, so far it is great, but the first panel was fine for about 36 hours. The service center told me to call them directly if a problem should develop during the next week or two (in other words, don't go through Samsung service). I am trying to be optimistic, and I do like the idea that I can simply call the local repair center if I should need to do so. It took two people about an hour to change the panel but they did it in my home, not at their shop. One of them commented that adding the Skype camera had made the E models more difficult to work on when compared to last year's D models.
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post #3157 of 16240 Old 08-27-2012, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by paul? View Post

Well, so far it is great, but the first panel was fine for about 36 hours. The service center told me to call them directly if a problem should develop during the next week or two (in other words, don't go through Samsung service). I am trying to be optimistic, and I do like the idea that I can simply call the local repair center if I should need to do so. It took two people about an hour to change the panel but they did it in my home, not at their shop. One of them commented that adding the Skype camera had made the E models more difficult to work on when compared to last year's D models.

I'm assuming they were very careful in handling the panel. I hate the idea of fingerprints and palm smudges on what I consider a fragile item.

Questions;

1) How were they in handling the set?

2) How was the panel packaged?

3) Where did they do the work? On the floor, table etc...?

4) Was yours on the wall or on the stand?

5) Did they view the panel for a period of time after the install for anything visible?

Sorry for the third degree. Just a bit anxious about the whole process. Thanks
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post #3158 of 16240 Old 08-27-2012, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by nitra View Post

Don't use DC/Black Tone, they will crush blacks, plain and simple.
There's a post several pages back that shows loosening some of the internal screws that can get rid of most of this issue, but some of it will never go away and is considered "normal".
My set is nearly flawless, however when I sit on the left hand side of the room, I can see an ever so slight flashlighting from the top right hand corner of the set, and the next time I need to take the set off the wall, I'll pull the back panel off and loosen the screws and see if there's a difference.
It's not enough of a problem for me to really care much about, after owning 6 Samsung's over the last few years, and seeing the issues with other brands/sets, it's mostly par for the course with LED Edge Lit set.
http://asia.cnet.com/is-tv-brightness-uniformity-a-problem-62213336.htm

I currently have the dynamic contrast set on "low", and I use it for both standard and movie modes.

In my experience with the AVS disc, "low" has a negligible effect on the black clipping and white clipping patterns, and doesn't actually affect my adjustments with the patterns either on or off, since I switched back and forth with the test patterns on. So I leave it on because it does seem to make a small difference. Medium clips a bit. High clips way too much.

I find myself using movie mode now because I just can't stand the auto-dimming. The only thing I use standard for now is if I'm watching something like regular tv that will remain brightly lit throughout like sports or a talk show, documentaries with lots of bright environments, etc. For movies, and tv shows with a cinematic feel, I would definitely leave it in movie mode. Watching Galactica or old seasons of 24 are much more enjoyable without the constant auto-dimming (every season of 24 has 12 full episodes that take place at night - bad idea if you dislike auto-dimming).

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post #3159 of 16240 Old 08-27-2012, 03:30 PM
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For others to use as reference, I bought the Squaretrade plan at Costco this weekend. It cost $99 plus we weren't members so we bought the membership for $55 but that was still a great deal because the warranty costs $157 on Amazon, and you just get the warranty. At Costco it's the same price with the membership factored in, but now you get a membership for a year so it's a great deal. If you'e already a Costco member it's an even better deal since it's only going to cost you $99.

It's funny though - the girl at the counter had no idea you could do this. She had no idea what I was talking about when I told her I wanted to buy the Squaretrade warranty on a tv I purchased at Best Buy, and she told me I can't do that. I then had to explain everything to her, and she said she never had a single person come in and do that so she wasn't aware that was an option. So we got signed up, and then took the warranty form (which you can find all over the store in various locations) to a register. The lady at the register then told me I can't buy a warranty like that. I went over it all over again, and she also had never heard of that being done before. We pointed out that it even explains it on the back of the warranty card. She then scanned the warranty card and charged us the $99 and that was it. They never even looked at my receipt for the tv purchase from Best Buy.

To register the warranty I had to go to Squaretrade.com and from there it was pretty simple - it asks where you bought the plan, and Costco is one of the choices. It then asked for the date and location of the tv purchase. So it registered fine - I'm going to upload a scanned copy of my receipt this evening - it says it isn't required but they prefer you to upload it so they have it on record so if you file a claim they already have the info.

You just have to make sure that you buy and register it within 60 days of purchase - if not, you'll find you bought a plan at Costco for nothing since they will sell it without checking for a valid receipt, meaning you could buy the plan but then Squaretrade wouldn't let you register it if it's past the 60 days.

For $99 it's a great way to have some protection. And I called Squaretrade and asked specifically about if they cover dead or stuck pixels - he didn't seem very knowledgeable, and basically said they do cover such things, but getting any details out of him seemed like more trouble than I wanted to go through.

Honestly, Costco needs to train their employees about their policies. What's wrong with retail stores these days?

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post #3160 of 16240 Old 08-27-2012, 03:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Op's Guy View Post

I'm assuming they were very careful in handling the panel. I hate the idea of fingerprints and palm smudges on what I consider a fragile item.
Questions;
1) How were they in handling the set?
2) How was the panel packaged?
3) Where did they do the work? On the floor, table etc...?
4) Was yours on the wall or on the stand?
5) Did they view the panel for a period of time after the install for anything visible?
Sorry for the third degree. Just a bit anxious about the whole process. Thanks

I don't blame you for worrying a bit. I was actually depressed for a couple of days after mine developed a red line running from top to bottom. In answer to your questions:

1). Yes, the did leave a couple of fingerprints, but I used distilled water on a microfiber cloth, and the fingerprints were easy to remove. They were extremely careful, but a 60 inch TV is difficult to maneuver. I don't even want to think about even larger sizes! In any case the screen is fine; the fingerprints were not a problem.
2). The new panel was inside a Samsung box that looked quite similar to a normal TV box. Any stranger looking at the box would have thought it contained a new TV. And the panel was housed in a similar fashion to a thin TV. The service people took the box with them; evidently they receive credit for returning them.
3). They brought their own portable foldout work table. I didn't have room near the TV, so they set the table up in my kitchen area. That's why a couple of fingerprints happened as they moved the TV to and from the work table.
4). My TV was on a stand, but the nature of the job demands that it be placed flat on a table, so it had to be moved. Oh yes, they did have a soft cushion-like cover on the table.
5). Yes, after replacing the panel, we reconnected everything, and they did examine the "new" picture; then they told me that I should call them if any problems should develop.

I didn't know what to expect, but they seemed both knowledgeable and skilled. They did not rush or take shortcuts. I hope you will receive similar expertise.
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post #3161 of 16240 Old 08-27-2012, 06:28 PM
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Finally got another 65es8000 exchange approved. Not sure if I made the right choice because every 65es8000 that I saw ( 10 of them) had vertical banding. The bestbuy rep recommended another exchange with haste . He was nice enough to let me know if it has the same problems I could go for something else like 60es8000 which is my favorite. Keeping my fingers crossed. I can live with slight light bleed but not banding. It ruins the movie for me.link

Any owner of the 65" set confirming this statement? I just returned a 70" Sharp because it suffered of horizontal banding and I was considering replacing it with a 65ES8000.
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post #3162 of 16240 Old 08-27-2012, 06:52 PM
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I find it comical that weeks later, Gasoline is still making accounts here to slam the ES8000.

What are the handles so we can avoid replying to him?

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post #3163 of 16240 Old 08-27-2012, 06:55 PM
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What are the handles so we can avoid replying to him?

They are quickly reported and removed by the mods. One was like sammyledfanboy or something like that.
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post #3164 of 16240 Old 08-27-2012, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by got3nks View Post

Any owner of the 65" set confirming this statement? I just returned a 70" Sharp because it suffered of horizontal banding and I was considering replacing it with a 65ES8000.

Some here have no banding issues with the 65. I have a couple small bands on mine but Samsung is going to replace the panel on it. Like every other LED it is the luck of the draw. The PQ is really amazing 98.5% of the time.
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post #3165 of 16240 Old 08-27-2012, 07:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derekbmhumprhey View Post

Finally got another 65es8000 exchange approved. Not sure if I made the right choice because every 65es8000 that I saw ( 10 of them) had vertical banding. The bestbuy rep recommended another exchange with haste . He was nice enough to let me know if it has the same problems I could go for something else like 60es8000 which is my favorite. Keeping my fingers crossed. I can live with slight light bleed but not banding. It ruins the movie for me.link

So which set do you actually own here? I'm looking at post#6225 and a little confused.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1408338/official-panasonic-vt50-owners-thread/6210#post_22349051
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post #3166 of 16240 Old 08-27-2012, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Deepsung View Post

Finally got another 65es8000 exchange approved. Not sure if I made the right choice because every 65es8000 that I saw ( 10 of them) had vertical banding. The bestbuy rep recommended another exchange with haste . He was nice enough to let me know if it has the same problems I could go for something else like 60es8000 which is my favorite. Keeping my fingers crossed. I can live with slight light bleed but not banding. It ruins the movie for me.

This is my original post. I see that someone else has copied and pasted it here.
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post #3167 of 16240 Old 08-27-2012, 07:38 PM
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This is my original post. I see that someone else has copied and pasted it here.

What's up with that? look at my post #3167
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post #3168 of 16240 Old 08-27-2012, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by got3nks View Post

Any owner of the 65" set confirming this statement? I just returned a 70" Sharp because it suffered of horizontal banding and I was considering replacing it with a 65ES8000.

Hi. The above post was originaly posted by me. I am awaiting my 3rd 65es8000 this week. I will update once I receive it. The banding was very bad on the first set , a few notches better on the second. However, regardless of the severity, it is an issue. I love the tv but I would love it more with no banding like I did the 60es8000.
Masterpieces like Jaws are affected by his issue. This is probably my last exchange. If I see similar problems I will go back to 60 inches. I am so used to this size it is hard to go back to 60- it is a love-hate relationship right now. I love it 90% of the time and feel otherwise when I see banding in the middle of a movie that I am really involved in. I trust Samsung will do something about it and not let their customers feel less satisfied.
Once again the the 3D again is mind-blowing.
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post #3169 of 16240 Old 08-27-2012, 07:40 PM
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What's up with that?
Never mind. I was replying to another post quoting mine. My bad.
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post #3170 of 16240 Old 08-27-2012, 07:47 PM
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What's up with that? look at my post #3167
I am confused here. I was replying to a post quoting mine. Is it ok to copy and paste somebody's post as their own?
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post #3171 of 16240 Old 08-27-2012, 07:51 PM
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I am confused here. I was replying to a post quoting mine. Is it ok to copy and paste somebody's post as their own?

In a quote form. No sure about the poster. If you look at my post above I copied a post he made in the VT50 forum. Maybe he owns both the ES and VT in 65". Something's not right here...
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post #3172 of 16240 Old 08-27-2012, 07:54 PM
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In a quote form. No sure about the poster. If you like at my post above I copied a post he made in the VT50 forum. Maybe he owns both the ES and VT in 65". Something's not right here...[/quo
Something's definitely not right here.
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post #3173 of 16240 Old 08-27-2012, 07:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deepsung View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Op's Guy View Post

In a quote form. No sure about the poster. If you like at my post above I copied a post he made in the VT50 forum. Maybe he owns both the ES and VT in 65". Something's not right here...[/quo
Something's definitely not right here.

Guess we'll have to wait and see how the poster responses.
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post #3174 of 16240 Old 08-27-2012, 08:01 PM
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Guess we'll have to wait and see how the poster responses.

Hi
you mentioned here that you have slight banding. How slight is it? DO you see multiple translucent vertical lines on a panning shot?
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post #3175 of 16240 Old 08-27-2012, 08:09 PM
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Hi
you mentioned here that you have slight banding. How slight is it? DO you see multiple translucent vertical lines on a panning shot?

3 in total. One dead in the middle with the other 2 about 8-12" either side. They are faint, but viewable in some sport shots like golf. Never see them in movies or regular programming.
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post #3176 of 16240 Old 08-27-2012, 11:20 PM
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so is movie mode good now with the new update ?
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post #3177 of 16240 Old 08-28-2012, 03:51 AM
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so is movie mode good now with the new update ?

It was a point update, nothing major changed.
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post #3178 of 16240 Old 08-28-2012, 05:37 AM
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Don't use DC/Black Tone, they will crush blacks, plain and simple.
There's a post several pages back that shows loosening some of the internal screws that can get rid of most of this issue, but some of it will never go away and is considered "normal".
My set is nearly flawless, however when I sit on the left hand side of the room, I can see an ever so slight flashlighting from the top right hand corner of the set, and the next time I need to take the set off the wall, I'll pull the back panel off and loosen the screws and see if there's a difference.
It's not enough of a problem for me to really care much about, after owning 6 Samsung's over the last few years, and seeing the issues with other brands/sets, it's mostly par for the course with LED Edge Lit set.
http://asia.cnet.com/is-tv-brightness-uniformity-a-problem-62213336.htm

I appreciate the input as always Nitra...

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I just got my TV yesterday, and with Nitra's settings (Thanks for posting those by the way!) I also found there to be a bit of flashlighting.
I found this odd since under the factory settings, black scenes were as black as could be.
Starting from scratch,I tweaked each setting to Nitra's using a black "credits" screen and found that adjusting the HDMI Black Level from Normal to Low caused the flashlighting to go away completely. I know you run the risk of clipping out data, however, I watched about 6 hours of TV/Games/Movies with the Low setting and to my eye the picture looks superb and the blacks and shadow detail in dark scenes look better than any TV I have ever seen, plasma included.
YMMV but to me this is what made the picture look best.

dad0118, thanks for the input as well.

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Originally Posted by nitra View Post

HDMI Black to Low isn't necessarily a bad thing, low refers to 16-255, most cable broadcasts don't use anything below 16 anyway, and many AVR's etc, clip it as a matter of course, if things don't look correct with it set to normal, and setting it to low resolves the issue, it's a good bet that's where it's supposed to be.
It should also be noted, if you run a cable box that uses Microsoft Windows CE as middleware, there was a known issue with some software revisions that the HDMI black level was off by 16 levels, and required the TV to be either inputted with component or HDMI Black set to low.

Okay Nitra, ...here is a stupid Q: HDMI black level option is "unavailable" in standard mode menu, what do i need to switch "on" to make it functional?

Love for all things Hi-def...Losing count; 200 plus bluray, 500 plus dvd, 30 plus HDdvd and a rapidly growing 50 plus in the cloud.

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post #3179 of 16240 Old 08-28-2012, 05:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bladerunner1959 View Post

I appreciate the input as always Nitra...
dad0118, thanks for the input as well.
Okay Nitra, ...here is a stupid Q: HDMI black level option is "unavailable" in standard mode menu, what do i need to switch "on" to make it functional?

If it's greyed out, then you don't have the option.
Some sources hard code what it's supposed to be in the HDMI stream. The question is, what source are you trying to change? And on the greyed out spot, what is it, Low or Normal?
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post #3180 of 16240 Old 08-28-2012, 06:08 AM
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On the Banding topic.

Nearly every LED/LCD TV has it, across all manufacturers and models, the only ones to escape this issue are plasmas.
The issue is due in part to the lamination process when they're making the screens, a quick Google search will show that every company has an issue with it, Sharp, LG, Panasonic, Samsung, Toshiba, Vizio, all of them.
Larger screens tend to show it more than others.
It really does come down a bit to the panel lottery.
Also, even though the banding may be visible on grey slides at low or moderate IRE, it generally shouldn't be visible during normal operation.

Seriously, nearly all of them have it in one form or another.
If it's visible during normal operation, exchange it, or call Samsung, they will swap the panel.
To those that think it's isolated to just Samsung, google is your friend, it happens to all of them, and generally, if it's noticeable on day 1, it won't get better, unlike flashlighting/light bleed.
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