Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread - Page 361 - AVS Forum
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post #10801 of 16274 Old 01-27-2013, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by rocketman9 View Post

I always thought my ES8000 should have come with a bar of gold too, wish I had discovered that when I was researching it...

IF Cinema Black (not to mention the 4th HDMI port) had not already been included as standard features in their comparably priced 2011 "D" series line, then I might be inclined to agree with you. The fact that they removed both of these items from their 2012 models in what appears to be a fairly obvious cost-cutting move, but are bringing them back in 2013, speaks volumes.

If history is any indicator, retail pricing of the 2013 line will mirror that of the 2012 lineup. So, for us to gain some (but not all) of the features and benefits of what the new 2013 model has to offer, Samsung is giving us an opportunity to shell out another $300-$500 to them and still wind up with a lesser quality TV. As always, YMMV. But, for me, no thanks!
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post #10802 of 16274 Old 01-27-2013, 10:39 AM
 
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Originally Posted by sympathetik View Post

Anthony, you're starting to piss someone on this forum .. again .. wink.gif

Really? Lol! I didn't know cause I have their posts blocked now eek.gif
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post #10803 of 16274 Old 01-27-2013, 10:43 AM
 
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Originally Posted by pitchman View Post

IF Cinema Black (not to mention the 4th HDMI port) had not already been included as standard features in their comparably priced 2011 "D" series line, then I might be inclined to agree with you. The fact that they removed both of these items from their 2012 models in what appears to be a fairly obvious cost-cutting move, but are bringing them back in 2013, speaks volumes.

If history is any indicator, retail pricing of the 2013 line will mirror that of the 2012 lineup. So, for us to gain some (but not all) of the features and benefits of what the new 2013 model has to offer, Samsung is giving us an opportunity to shell out another $300-$500 to them and still wind up with a lesser quality TV. As always, YMMV. But, for me, no thanks!

You know, you just made me think about that, and I bet you when the F gets released, its going to cost a lot more then the ES because they are going to figure they will be able to make more for these new features they are adding to the F series. They will also look at it as the ES with the new Evo kit adds a $300 to $500 or whatever they charge, adds that value, which means the F series will probably cost that much more than the ES did at first?
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post #10804 of 16274 Old 01-27-2013, 10:57 AM
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Thanks for the advice regarding getting my Sony NEX camera to stream pictures via its built-in WiFi to the UNES8000.

Finally figured it out.

I had my TV hard-wired ethernet to the network. It needed to be on the same WiFi access point as the camera to get the pictures to stream. Once that was done it worked, and worked nicely.

So here is a question:

If I don't want to unplug my wired ethernet connection (which is faster and more reliable than the WiFi signal), is there a way to get the TV to still talk to the camera via WiFi? I thought that the SoftAP may be a solution, but I can't figure out how to work it. Same with the Direct WiFi (I think that is what it is called) option.

Any pointers?

(I am thinking something like turning on the SoftAP and then the camera would see the TV as a WiFi access point, but I've tried and it doesn't work)...

Any help appreciated as always....
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post #10805 of 16274 Old 01-27-2013, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

Are you referring to the Smooth Video Project (SVP)? That allows motion interpolation of your videos to be added with any media player on your pc. I have that actually as I was curious how it worked. Not sure if that's what you're referring to but if it is, yeah it does a nice job of using motion interpolation. Of course you have to like the "soap opera effect" to enjoy it. Using it on your tv is definitely another way to view your videos with motion interpolation without relying on the tv to do it. SVP isn't perfect of course, and it's a little complicated to set up, and there are many options which can affect the end result. But it's a nice feature. I wasn't aware that it featured a half side-by-side mode. I'll have to check that out.

Smooth video project is the one, my mistake. I find it the best way to watch side by side mkv files.
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post #10806 of 16274 Old 01-27-2013, 11:06 AM
 
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Originally Posted by sony1717 View Post

Thanks for the advice regarding getting my Sony NEX camera to stream pictures via its built-in WiFi to the UNES8000.

Finally figured it out.

I had my TV hard-wired ethernet to the network. It needed to be on the same WiFi access point as the camera to get the pictures to stream. Once that was done it worked, and worked nicely.

So here is a question:

If I don't want to unplug my wired ethernet connection (which is faster and more reliable than the WiFi signal), is there a way to get the TV to still talk to the camera via WiFi? I thought that the SoftAP may be a solution, but I can't figure out how to work it. Same with the Direct WiFi (I think that is what it is called) option.

Any pointers?

(I am thinking something like turning on the SoftAP and then the camera would see the TV as a WiFi access point, but I've tried and it doesn't work)...

Any help appreciated as always....

Glad you got it to work.. about the SoftAP and Wifi direct, I can't get it to work either with my Samsung camera that has wifi. Maybe they need a software update on both those options. All my products like my MacBook etc.. All see my TVs IP and seem to connect, but doesn't work right. You may also need a Samsung camera to take advantage of the SoftAP or wifi direct which you really shouldn't have to go out and buy one just to use these features, but I checked out the "printer" feature to see how that works and it says you need a Samsung printer to connect to the TV.
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post #10807 of 16274 Old 01-27-2013, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Garnoch View Post

Hey there, Mickjcat. The difference is DirecTV. I believe you don't need it on with DirecTV's newer hardware. In the Guide (link in my signature) you'll see that it appears to only be an option when the hardware requires it to be on Low, otherwise it is greyed out. You should be fine.

So like I believe Chris is doing, you moved from Uverse to DirecTV this weekend? Do you notice a difference?

HDMI Black Level will be grayed out if the source is YCbCr color space. If it is not grayed out, the source is RGB color space. Normal is for RGB full range (0-255), and Low is for RGB limited range (16-235). One must know what range your source is outputting and set HDMI Black Level accordingly, or their ranges will be mismatched and their picture will not be correct, with clipped or washed out blacks. It is not a preference setting. One may set it to what they think looks right, but that won't make the choice correct. This setting must be matched to the source.

Film Mode is for setting the deinterlacing mode of the TV and will be grayed out when the source is progressive (e.g. 1080p, 720p).

Back off man, I'm a scientist.
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post #10808 of 16274 Old 01-27-2013, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Anthony5362 View Post

I have Comcast cable and noticed on my 60" the HDMI setting is greyed out, but on all other TVs its not. The only thing that's different from my 60" compared to my other sets, is that all other sets are connected to a Reciever with a video processor, and a Logitech revue box which upscales the signal to 1080p. So maybe the 1080p signal has something to so with this? I don't know why Logitech doesn't promote this amazing feature, but if you have the Revue "Google TV" box, it upscales your cable signal to 1080p, and it does it better then my 2010 Onkyo 708 receiver does. For only $99 that's not bad. You can tell from the picture quality difference, but also when I hit the "Info" on my 60" remote, it says 1080 60i and on my sets that have the Revue box, it says 1080 60p. I don't use this Google TV for anything but the upscaled feature and once I realized it was doing this, I bought a few refurbs on Amazon.

Your recievers are outputting RGB to your other TVs. Your Comcast box is outputting YCbCr to your 60".

Back off man, I'm a scientist.
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post #10809 of 16274 Old 01-27-2013, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by 10k View Post

standard definitely has red push, especially at warm2. You can easily see it if you load default image settings and load up the test pattern. Switching between the three rgb only modes the difference between the light and dark blue and green are equal but the dark red is much lighter in comparison.

Unfortunately I'm not savvy enough to fix that myself with advanced adjustments but just switching to warm1 in standard does a fair amount of good, and I prefer the slightly red grays to the sickly green skin tones that sometimes show up in movie mode.

My set, and what appears to be many people here who had posted about it in the past, also seems to have a red push in Standard. Here's the problem though... If you use the AVS files or WOW BD to make it seem right, you'll notice that you don't have enough red, compared to Movie mode. So I would up finding a middle ground where the tests were a little off but it looked almost exactly like Movie mode. Standard mode is just a hard mode to tweak, I think for two reasons. One there isn't as much control to tweak. Two, there are other things going on in non-Movie modes that effect what you're trying to do.
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post #10810 of 16274 Old 01-27-2013, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Anthony5362 View Post

I got the chance last night to really play around with the Movie mode and standard, and Garnoch, you may be right about the Micro Dimming being enabled in movie mode now. I reset the settings one more time in movie mode and the picture looked really good without that green tint I had before. I don't know what changed it, but I even noticed that the Dynamic Contrast and Black tone didn't need to be on anymore while in movie mode.

This is the first time I was able to leave these 2 features off and still get a picture that "pops" maybe Samsung did something with that last update to where the Micro dimming stays on all of the time now and isn't connected to the Dynamic contrast? Idk.. I like what I see though

Maybe but knowing now what we know about Micro Dimming, it seems odd that they would add it to Movie mode. I still haven't re-tweaked, but after this weekend I will still say blacks (panel uniformity in general) in Movie mode so look much better and basically the same as Standard - so I'm still in Movie mode. The only thing I actually tested was CE Dimming, and like I said, on the 7500 there is no difference from before.
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post #10811 of 16274 Old 01-27-2013, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Garnoch View Post

My set, and what appears to be many people here who had posted about it in the past, also seems to have a red push in Standard. Here's the problem though... If you use the AVS files or WOW BD to make it seem right, you'll notice that you don't have enough red, compared to Movie mode. So I would up finding a middle ground where the tests were a little off but it looked almost exactly like Movie mode. Standard mode is just a hard mode to tweak, I think for two reasons. One there isn't as much control to tweak. Two, there are other things going on in non-Movie modes that effect what you're trying to do.
yeah that is basically where I am at now also. I settled on standard in warm1 and just try to ignore the small amount of extra red as I find it far less distracting than the green skin tones that can pop up in movie mode.

Let me know if you find a solution biggrin.gif
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post #10812 of 16274 Old 01-27-2013, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by mickjcat View Post

So my Direct TV has dominion over my Samsung picture settings? The HDMI black level is grayed out with the medium setting.

Yes, I did notice a difference in PQ, because I need to adjust the picture settings after i got Direct TV, I think I will like it better than uverse. I will try to get to the wow disc today, although being perfectly content to use your settings, when you re calibrate wink.gif
Thanks,
Garnoch smile.gif

Hmmmm, not dominion. The norm is you shouldn't have to use anything other than Normal for HDMI Black Level but some gear require it. Samsung seems to attempt to make sure people don't change it when it shouldn't be changed by greying it out when it shouldn't be used. HDMI Black level isn't a feature really, think of it as a tech spec.
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post #10813 of 16274 Old 01-27-2013, 12:01 PM
 
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Originally Posted by Garnoch View Post

Maybe but knowing now what we know about Micro Dimming, it seems odd that they would add it to Movie mode. I still haven't re-tweaked, but after this weekend I will still say blacks (panel uniformity in general) in Movie mode so look much better and basically the same as Standard - so I'm still in Movie mode. The only thing I actually tested was CE Dimming, and like I said, on the 7500 there is no difference from before.

Garnoch, have you tried it without using the Eco sensor? I just disabled the Eco sensor on my 60" and the set became more colorful. I know the Eco dims it, but never saw a big difference in the colors like I just did
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post #10814 of 16274 Old 01-27-2013, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 10k View Post

yeah that is basically where I am at now also. I settled on standard in warm1 and just try to ignore the small amount of extra red as I find it far less distracting than the green skin tones that can pop up in movie mode.

Let me know if you find a solution biggrin.gif

My set not only had a red push in Standard but a slight Blue push too. My only solution was to first bring down the White Balance Gains to look right on the file tests, but when it looked so bland compared to a nicely calibrated Movie mode, I pushed the Gains back up slightly. It threw off the tests (in Standard mode only), but looked almost exactly like Movie mode. So that's how I dealt with it in my Standard settings.
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post #10815 of 16274 Old 01-27-2013, 12:03 PM
 
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Originally Posted by sharkcohen View Post

HDMI Black Level will be grayed out if the source is YCbCr color space. If it is not grayed out, the source is RGB color space. Normal is for RGB full range (0-255), and Low is for RGB limited range (16-235). One must know what range your source is outputting and set HDMI Black Level accordingly, or their ranges will be mismatched and their picture will not be correct, with clipped or washed out blacks. It is not a preference setting. One may set it to what they think looks right, but that won't make the choice correct. This setting must be matched to the source.

Film Mode is for setting the deinterlacing mode of the TV and will be grayed out when the source is progressive (e.g. 1080p, 720p).

Thanks.. This explains why the film mode is greyed out on all sets except my 60" which doesn't have the Logitech Revue hooked up to.
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post #10816 of 16274 Old 01-27-2013, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Anthony5362 View Post

I thought about this Evo kit some more and realized that maybe they were right when they said we will get "better" picture quality from it after all. Maybe what they meant is better picture when it comes to "Streaming" from it since the kit is supposed to have some hardware or software to improve this.

Crap, from a legal standpoint, you may be right. Plus the new processors are capable of real time 3D - this may play into their gaming strategy that they've been test. I'm sure that will look better too (improved picture quality). If that's all we get though, I hope for no more than $200.
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post #10817 of 16274 Old 01-27-2013, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by pitchman View Post

I remain moderately interested in the EVO Kit, but when all is said and done, I can't imagine how it will bring the Cinema Black feature to our 2012 LEDs. I am no engineer, and truth be told, not very technically-minded, but it seems to me that if Samsung is issuing ONE add-on box designed to work in both its LED and Plasma TVs, we're dealing with one kit for two different technologies. Both models can certainly take advantage of the same faster processor and a fancier Smart Hub, but a proprietary LED feature like Cinema Black? I'm not so sure about that one. I'd love to be wrong about this, and perhaps I am. I guess time will tell. I know that without upgrading us to this valuable picture enhancement feature (that should have been in our TV's in the first place), I will not be spending a dime on this add-on device.

I agree. I'm definitely not expecting it.
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post #10818 of 16274 Old 01-27-2013, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by rocketman9 View Post

I always thought my ES8000 should have come with a bar of gold too, wish I had discovered that when I was researching it...

Ha, you would have enjoyed another poster we used to have here.
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post #10819 of 16274 Old 01-27-2013, 12:09 PM
 
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Originally Posted by Garnoch View Post

Ha, you would have enjoyed another poster we used to have here.

Ha! Enjoyed "another" are is enjoying the same, but a tiny makeover?
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post #10820 of 16274 Old 01-27-2013, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by sharkcohen View Post

HDMI Black Level will be grayed out if the source is YCbCr color space. If it is not grayed out, the source is RGB color space. Normal is for RGB full range (0-255), and Low is for RGB limited range (16-235). One must know what range your source is outputting and set HDMI Black Level accordingly, or their ranges will be mismatched and their picture will not be correct, with clipped or washed out blacks. It is not a preference setting. One may set it to what they think looks right, but that won't make the choice correct. This setting must be matched to the source.

Film Mode is for setting the deinterlacing mode of the TV and will be grayed out when the source is progressive (e.g. 1080p, 720p).

Well said. Can I add that to The Guide?
And I love your signature smile.gif
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post #10821 of 16274 Old 01-27-2013, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Garnoch View Post

Well said. Can I add that to The Guide?
And I love your signature smile.gif

Please feel free to, and thanks! Love your guide, great info.

Back off man, I'm a scientist.
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post #10822 of 16274 Old 01-27-2013, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Anthony5362 View Post

Garnoch, have you tried it without using the Eco sensor? I just disabled the Eco sensor on my 60" and the set became more colorful. I know the Eco dims it, but never saw a big difference in the colors like I just did

Eco doesn't dim back and forth though and yeah I tried it both ways actually. It's easily seen even in the Apple TV menus - plus my standard test, which is the beginning of The Empire Strikes Back. Oh well, the trick in my second set of Standard settings still works great and as of now, after many months on Standard, I may be back to Movie mode because of how good it's looking. I can't but to think it's in my heard, but every time I test it, jumping back and forth, I'm surprised and confused as to why it's looking so good.
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post #10823 of 16274 Old 01-27-2013, 12:16 PM
 
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Originally Posted by Garnoch View Post

Well said. Can I add that to The Guide?
And I love your signature smile.gif

Haha! I just noticed that.. So is it better to have my receiver put out the RGB, or is the other way better?
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post #10824 of 16274 Old 01-27-2013, 12:19 PM
 
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Originally Posted by Garnoch View Post

Eco doesn't dim back and forth though and yeah I tried it both ways actually. It's easily seen even in the Apple TV menus - plus my standard test, which is the beginning of The Empire Strikes Back. Oh well, the trick in my second set of Standard settings still works great and as of now, after many months on Standard, I may be back to Movie mode because of how good it's looking. I can't but to think it's in my heard, but every time I test it, jumping back and forth, I'm surprised and confused as to why it's looking so good.

Its not in your head.. A lot of the people in the UK have said that the new updates have made the picture a lot better. Have you noticed they don't post much anymore in here? Maybe this is why..lol! Maybe they are finally done trying to tweak their TVs and can just enjoy them. Sucks that it took almost a full year to get to this though.
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post #10825 of 16274 Old 01-27-2013, 12:20 PM
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Please feel free to, and thanks! Love your guide, great info.

Done - and thanks. smile.gif
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post #10826 of 16274 Old 01-27-2013, 12:23 PM
 
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Originally Posted by sharkcohen View Post

Please feel free to, and thanks! Love your guide, great info.

++1

Yea Garnosh.. Thanks for taking the time to make up that helpers guide. I'm sure its helping a lot of folks out there who aren't members and are just "guests" here, as well as all of us regulars.
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post #10827 of 16274 Old 01-27-2013, 12:25 PM
 
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Originally Posted by sharkcohen View Post

Your recievers are outputting RGB to your other TVs. Your Comcast box is outputting YCbCr to your 60".

So which way is the best? Is the RGB or the YCbCr better?
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post #10828 of 16274 Old 01-27-2013, 12:26 PM
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Where is that guide? Post a link please
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post #10829 of 16274 Old 01-27-2013, 12:28 PM
 
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Click on Garnochs avatar
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post #10830 of 16274 Old 01-27-2013, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Anthony5362 View Post

Garnoch, have you tried it without using the Eco sensor? I just disabled the Eco sensor on my 60" and the set became more colorful. I know the Eco dims it, but never saw a big difference in the colors like I just did

IMHO - - if you keep Samsung "processing" to a minimum and tweak what you can tweak - - namely "Brightness," "Contrast," "Sharpness," - - of that ilk - - you will get more benefit out of the firmware updates. (In conjunction with "Standard" Color Schemes and Color Tone - - menu options) I also do not use the Eco sensor although I do know that some viewers in "light to dark" environments benefit from this feature.

A lot of folks really prefer "Movie" mode (Captain Garnoch...smile.gif) but I've always liked the picture of "Standard" better - - to me it's just more of a "pop" factor and especially now, with firmware update 1046 and the beauty of the colors without the harshness and crushing of blacks plus the dimming more under control. So much so that I was able to watch my Bluray player in "Standard" (2D) - for the first time in a long, long time (3D always in "Standard" - NA) (End of Watch flick - very good!)

I always wondered about "Professional Calibration" vis a vis having firmware updates all the time and if that changes your picture. If so (and I believe it does - -at least on my set with update 1046) - - what's the point of a paying a lot of change to get your TV calibrated and then "undone" after a firmware update? Unless you have the professional equipment and know how to do it yourself - - you'll be constantly re-calibrating your TV. I know we enjoy these activities otherwise we wouldn't be on this forum. But where is the point of diminishing returns?

Now - - for a Projector - - a professional calibration makes a lot of sense - - you should be able to (pardon me Ron) - "Set It And Forget It!"

Otherwise, it's the dog chasing the tail in pursuit of the best PQ we can get on our Sammy sets - especially if you consider in the "Firmware Factor."

Home Theater Setup
Samsung UN65ES8000 LCD/LED
BenQ W1080ST Projector
Pioneer SC65 (Pre-Amp)
Wyred4Sound MMC-7 Channel Amplifier, 221wpc
OPPO 103, Directv GENIE
Darbee Darblet
ALL Paradigm - 7.1 - Studio 60's, V.2 (FL/FR)
CC-690, V.5 (C)
ADP 590 V.5 (SS)
MilleniaOne 2.0 (BS) - Velodyne 810 Sub
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