Official Samsung UNxxES8000 Owner's Thread - Page 430 - AVS Forum
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post #12871 of 16240 Old 02-26-2013, 08:52 PM
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I did not say that I left it at factory settings. I'm just saying that I didn't need to spend so much time getting it where I like it. 4 or 5 tweaks and thats it.

And I bet my PQ would match up with anyones.

Didn't intend to start any kind of pissing match. I stated my intention above.

Carry on.

BDP103>SR7007>55"ES8000
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post #12872 of 16240 Old 02-26-2013, 08:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jestered View Post

At least for me, and I think most of the others that are calibrating their TVs by meter here, it's not about being a "purist ". I'm not going by the standard ISF calibration model. I don't think most the others are either. I"m simply calibrating my grayscale and colors as acurate as possible while tweaking the things that I personally don't like about the look. I'm still trying to find the right FtL level for my eyes, so I'm not done yet. In my opinion though, the grayscale and colorscale is either acurate or it's not. There's really no arguing about that. That being said, I've never told anyone that isn't doing what I"m doing that they are not being serious enough about the way their TV looks, so I'm not sure why I'm being told I'm being too serious about it.

Jestered, I may no longer have my ES8000, but I'll be the first one to say that what you and 10K are doing, and Garnoch and Turboman before you..... the sharing with other ES8000 owners embodies what these forums are all about. Not everyone is going to have either the time to calibrate or the extra money to pay someone to calibrate, but doing all of your tests and sharing your results is very generous especially considering how much time it takes to do so. smile.gif
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post #12873 of 16240 Old 02-26-2013, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post

Very nice price drops on UN65ES8000

They should be giving this set away free at this point to anyone willing to look at 5 wide vertical bands smacking them in the face everytime you turn it on.
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post #12874 of 16240 Old 02-26-2013, 09:04 PM
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Cmay91472, did you see my dog pic back there? LOL


Yes, I really would put pix of scenes from my 8000 up against any comparison...of any tv. My weakness is that I only have a windows phone camera so I don't think it fairly shows my scenes...i could be wrong. I didn't get feedback on the dogs!!! LOL I think they look incredible

Love for all things Hi-def...Losing count; 200 plus bluray, 500 plus dvd, 30 plus HDdvd and a rapidly growing 50 plus in the cloud.

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post #12875 of 16240 Old 02-26-2013, 09:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bladerunner1959 View Post

Cmay91472, did you see my dog pic back there? LOL


Yes, I really would put pix of scenes from my 8000 up against any comparison...of any tv. My weakness is that I only have a windows phone camera so I don't think it fairly shows my scenes...i could be wrong. I didn't get feedback on the dogs!!! LOL I think they look incredible

I'll check them out. smile.gif

BTW.... Because of how amazing Skyfall's transfer was, it overshadowed another amazing transfer that came out the same day. Although a corny movie, the Man with the Iron Fists is also an amazing transfer with great detail and amazing sound. The scene with the Gemini Twins is reference material all the way both image and sound wise.
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post #12876 of 16240 Old 02-26-2013, 09:15 PM
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I watched Super 8 this afternoon. I enjoyed it a lot. Quite a few dark scenes that my old Toshiba definitely couldn't handle. My ES8000 did great. And the SOUND....omg....really nice.

BDP103>SR7007>55"ES8000
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post #12877 of 16240 Old 02-26-2013, 09:16 PM
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MH02 panel.
Disney WOW blu ray disc.

Is this banding bad enough to get a new unit?

1361933974_zpsd963504a.jpg

1361934025_zps397151e0.jpg
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post #12878 of 16240 Old 02-26-2013, 09:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by getbigg21 View Post

Been thinking about getting this es8000 or the es7500. Anyone here have the 7500 and take it back to exchange for the 8000? If so what made u do so?

So the question is 7500 or 8000
The TVs are very very close picture wise. One review that I read on the 7500 did alot of comparing of both models. The 8000 has a slightly better processor, better measured blacks, can produce a brighter picture, has better off angle viewing, has lower power consumption, and more zones of micro dimming. The 7500 has an all black bezel where the 8000 is black and has the silver edge.
It really depends on what kind of a deal you can get. I bought the 60-7500 for $2000 on boxing day. The 8000s werent on sale so the price difference was a grand. The 8000 imo wasnt worth a grand more. At one place I was at I was offered the 8000 for $500 more and again imo the $8000 wasnt worth $500 more. If you can get an 8000 in the the same size as a 7500 for $200 or $300 more, go for it. If you can get a great deal on a 7500 go for that too, you will not be disappointed

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post #12879 of 16240 Old 02-26-2013, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie1210 View Post

I watched Super 8 this afternoon. I enjoyed it a lot. Quite a few dark scenes that my old Toshiba definitely couldn't handle. My ES8000 did great. And the SOUND....omg....really nice.

+1

Train crash among the best sound on any bluray to date.
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post #12880 of 16240 Old 02-26-2013, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by timmay77 View Post

MH02 panel.
Disney WOW blu ray disc.

Is this banding bad enough to get a new unit?

1361933974_zpsd963504a.jpg

1361934025_zps397151e0.jpg

Loaded question there.....

Yes, it is.

Will you get a better unit..... No.

Don't worry about static images, test panning shots because if a TV has banding that will be unwatchable, it will occur on panning scenes.
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post #12881 of 16240 Old 02-26-2013, 09:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmay91472 View Post

+1

Train crash among the best sound on any bluray to date.

I have to agree. Really well done.
gamermwm likes this.

BDP103>SR7007>55"ES8000
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post #12882 of 16240 Old 02-26-2013, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jestered View Post

At least for me, and I think most of the others that are calibrating their TVs by meter here, it's not about being a "purist ". I'm not going by the standard ISF calibration model. I don't think most the others are either. I"m simply calibrating my grayscale and colors as acurate as possible while tweaking the things that I personally don't like about the look. I'm still trying to find the right FtL level for my eyes, so I'm not done yet. In my opinion though, the grayscale and colorscale is either acurate or it's not. There's really no arguing about that. That being said, I've never told anyone that isn't doing what I"m doing that they are not being serious enough about the way their TV looks, so I'm not sure why I'm being told I'm being too serious about it.

I agree! This is a hobby for me (for many years) but have always enjoyed getting the most out of the equipment I have purchased. I've have about 3K into calibration software/hardware. I first got interested a few years back when MichaelTLV from the forum here came to my house to calibrate a new projector. He is a ISF/THX instructor and teaches calibrators. I had him over for my next projector and a combined 6hrs of instruction from him convinced me to get my own equipment. I now calibrate all my displays in my home and even the three flat panels in my RV. The nice thing is when I turn on any of them they all have the same look calibrated to the same baseline I always use. One of the most important things I remember from having a professional calibrate my display was after he did all the measurements and charts he put in a reference disk he always uses(actual video) and said "now lets take a look at the picture" and make the necessary adjustments. I know that the equipment has paid for itself if I would have had all of the displays over the year's calibrated and has been a fun learning curve. smile.gif

Rick
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post #12883 of 16240 Old 02-26-2013, 09:48 PM
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Also, the "Samsara" BD disk is eye candy!

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post #12884 of 16240 Old 02-26-2013, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by RickS View Post

Also, the "Samsara" BD disk is eye candy!

+ 1000

I marvel at the temples in the beginning from Indonesia?

Also love the scene from the sulfur mines.

Very sad to see the kids sifting through the huge mounds of trash though.
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post #12885 of 16240 Old 02-26-2013, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Fleetski View Post

I've tried all AMP settings including fooling around with some custom, and it's Clear for me. Based on these recent comments, just tried Standard and got immediate stutter on pic. Back to Clear for me.

I went ahead and did some testing on this setting myself this evening (after plugging in 10k's movie settings, spot on btw, can’t thank the calibrators enough), and I can say without a doubt that film-based bluray content (and possibly all 24p content) should be played using the "Clear" setting; fans of any other setting (perhaps besides anyone who has a custom setting close to Clear) should at least hear me out about how I arrived at this conclusion:

The opening scene of The Dark Knight is a true, reference IMAX (i.e. no letterbox, full 1080p resolution) transfer, and it is a slow zoom to the all-glass building that gets a window busted. During the zoom (and if you're set to Standard or Smooth), you'll see some rows of windows on the building behind the one being zoomed in on sort of smear, then the same thing will happen to the vertical lines of the decorative rooftop caps in the foreground. Finally, just before the zoom ends, one of the windows is a vent (very obvious) that will show some jumpiness of the vent lines. If you're set to Clear (or a close custom setting), or even “Off”, none of this happens.

Of course, if this doesn't bother you, or if you think it's a small price to pay for the overall look you get with Standard, then by all means, proceed with your favorite setting. I'm only sharing my findings and informing for the sake of anyone who hasn't yet been able to decide on a setting for AMP, or for anyone else curious.

Of course, as 10k pointed out, good animation content can look amazing with a setting of Smooth, so needless to say, it really depends on the source and material being viewed.

Blade, the dogs look great!


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post #12886 of 16240 Old 02-26-2013, 10:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmay91472 View Post

Loaded question there.....

Yes, it is.

Will you get a better unit..... No.

Don't worry about static images, test panning shots because if a TV has banding that will be unwatchable, it will occur on panning scenes.

The general manager at the HHGregg where I bought it said he would give me as many panels as I wanted until I was happy, pr he would make me a fantastic deal on another TV. Very nice guy. I do not want to drop down to the 60" model, I'm not THAT anal about the picture. No offense to anyone who is. My issue though is it is pretty noticeable when watching scenes with a sky or a white background. I also have some black clouding. Very disappointed. The picture on this TV is pretty awesome. The GM also told me I could audition other TV's in home until I found something I liked.
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post #12887 of 16240 Old 02-26-2013, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by cmay91472 View Post

probably nothing can rival the Sharp Elite at least 2D wise

Ok, I spill the dirty secret. The Sharp Elite was reported in last year's shootout to have bad color tracking. This means that you can calibrate the 100% saturation to perfection, the below 100% saturation points are way off, in a big way.
The big VT50 fan who wrote in this thread - sorry, forgot the user name, getting old- also said the Elite is excellent , apart from color tracking.

This gives me some satisfaction. About two years ago, almost nobody was checking color tracking. I had a Sharp Aquos top model (not Elite, but probably close), and with the aid of another users excel file, I measured that color tracking on my Aquos was way off. When I reported it, some comments were my meter must have been off. Way off, my xxxx.

Back to the ES8000: color tracking is looking good on this babe.


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post #12888 of 16240 Old 02-26-2013, 10:30 PM
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I don't fold my socks. I just toss them in the drawer.

smile.gif

BDP103>SR7007>55"ES8000
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post #12889 of 16240 Old 02-26-2013, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by zombie1210 View Post

I don't fold my socks. I just toss them in the drawer.

smile.gif
Washed , or in user's condition?


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post #12890 of 16240 Old 02-26-2013, 10:53 PM
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Just as i was starting to fall in love with the tv...2nd day...i get a dead pixel -_________-...........TS01 Panel.
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post #12891 of 16240 Old 02-26-2013, 11:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by galonzo View Post

I went ahead and did some testing on this setting myself this evening (after plugging in 10k's movie settings, spot on btw, can’t thank the calibrators enough), and I can say without a doubt that film-based bluray content (and possibly all 24p content) should be played using the "Clear" setting; fans of any other setting (perhaps besides anyone who has a custom setting close to Clear) should at least hear me out about how I arrived at this conclusion:

The opening scene of The Dark Knight is a true, reference IMAX (i.e. no letterbox, full 1080p resolution) transfer, and it is a slow zoom to the all-glass building that gets a window busted. During the zoom (and if you're set to Standard or Smooth), you'll see some rows of windows on the building behind the one being zoomed in on sort of smear, then the same thing will happen to the vertical lines of the decorative rooftop caps in the foreground. Finally, just before the zoom ends, one of the windows is a vent (very obvious) that will show some jumpiness of the vent lines. If you're set to Clear (or a close custom setting), or even “Off”, none of this happens.

Of course, if this doesn't bother you, or if you think it's a small price to pay for the overall look you get with Standard, then by all means, proceed with your favorite setting. I'm only sharing my findings and informing for the sake of anyone who hasn't yet been able to decide on a setting for AMP, or for anyone else curious.

Of course, as 10k pointed out, good animation content can look amazing with a setting of Smooth, so needless to say, it really depends on the source and material being viewed.

Blade, the dogs look great!

Thanks Galonzo for the awesome explanation of amp and your research. I followed your suggestion and totally agree.
Btw, I am back to 10k's settings and they are definitely the best. I feel OCD with all this switching back and forth :-) Thanks 10k and all the calibrators for all your work!
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post #12892 of 16240 Old 02-26-2013, 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Jestered View Post

Something is definately not right. Did you set the regular White Balance setting before doing anything else? Your Green level across the scale should be at 100% without you changing anything at all, and not 110%. I don't know what's causing that, but it's not right. The HCFR software should be using Green as your reference and using it at 100%. You should only be changing the Red and Blue using 2P and 10P white balance to get those to match the Green (at 100%). For this basic grayscale set up, you should NOT be changing Green anywhere.

You may be causing this problem with the change you made in the Service Menu. I'd suggest setting that back to default. Then here's what I would do:

Hey!

I just changed Red Gain in service menu to higher value (168->200). Without the change I was not able to set Red to 100% on 80% Gray even when Gain was +50 (Read was on 97%). I never changed anything for Green anywhere in the menus, I know I am not supposed to change Green.

I did try to reset everything to default and immediately after that I only changed Contrast to 90-100 and Backlight to ~15, looked at it on 100% Gray (White). Red and Blue were too low and chaining anything under White Balance or 10p WB does not raise them at all (but I can set them up/.they react to changes normally at 80% gray of course). The ONLY way to get Red and Blue to 100% at Gray 100% is to set Contrast ~80 and Backlight ~15 (ftL 41.683). So now I ended up with the following and my lines do look quite nice:

MOVIE Mode
Picture Size -> Screen Fit
Color Tone -> Warm1
Contrast 80
Backlight 15 (ftL 41.683)
Brightness 43
Sharpness 15
Color 50
White Balance/Red Gain -> 29
White Balance/Blue Gain -> 31
White Balance/Red Offset -> 28
White Balance/Blue Offset -> 23
10p White Balance -> (5=60%)
1 0,0,-1
2 -2,0,1
3 0,0,0
4 0,0,0
5 -3,0,-1
6 -4,0,0
7 -3,0,0
8 0,0,0
9 0,0,0
10 0,0,0




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post #12893 of 16240 Old 02-27-2013, 04:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timmay77 View Post

The general manager at the HHGregg where I bought it said he would give me as many panels as I wanted until I was happy, pr he would make me a fantastic deal on another TV. Very nice guy. I do not want to drop down to the 60" model, I'm not THAT anal about the picture. No offense to anyone who is. My issue though is it is pretty noticeable when watching scenes with a sky or a white background. I also have some black clouding. Very disappointed. The picture on this TV is pretty awesome. The GM also told me I could audition other TV's in home until I found something I liked.

Unfortunately, you can go through a dozen 65ES8000s and you most likely won't get one that is significantly better than what you posted.

If you are not willing you to drop down to a 60ES8000, your options are limited if you want LED and 65+ and you are going to pay significantly more unless you are willing to get an LG or Vizio.
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post #12894 of 16240 Old 02-27-2013, 04:10 AM
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Originally Posted by turboman123 View Post

Ok, I spill the dirty secret. The Sharp Elite was reported in last year's shootout to have bad color tracking. This means that you can calibrate the 100% saturation to perfection, the below 100% saturation points are way off, in a big way.
The big VT50 fan who wrote in this thread - sorry, forgot the user name, getting old- also said the Elite is excellent , apart from color tracking.

This gives me some satisfaction. About two years ago, almost nobody was checking color tracking. I had a Sharp Aquos top model (not Elite, but probably close), and with the aid of another users excel file, I measured that color tracking on my Aquos was way off. When I reported it, some comments were my meter must have been off. Way off, my xxxx.

Back to the ES8000: color tracking is looking good on this babe.

Agreed, there are many issues with even the vaunted Elite such as the now well known "blob" defects, but I have yet to find any set that will calibrate perfect. Not Sharp, not Sony, not Panasonic and certainly not Samsung either.... and don't even get me started on 3D on any Sharp brand TV or other manufacturers using a "sharp" panel.... cough, ahem 60ES8000. eek.gif
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post #12895 of 16240 Old 02-27-2013, 04:12 AM
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Originally Posted by d00kateh View Post

Just as i was starting to fall in love with the tv...2nd day...i get a dead pixel -_________-...........TS01 Panel.

Not uncommon with Samsung. Change out until you get one without any. Use color slides and you will know if you have any within 5 minutes of turning it on.
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post #12896 of 16240 Old 02-27-2013, 05:40 AM
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Thx for the heads up on the Costco square trade warranty. It was only $5 more for non members. I also got bestbuy to credit the recent discount of the model. The perks of the 45 day return for silver member.


FYI. Word is that the BB return policy will be changing to 14 days in the next couple of months.
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post #12897 of 16240 Old 02-27-2013, 05:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by galonzo View Post

I went ahead and did some testing on this setting myself this evening (after plugging in 10k's movie settings, spot on btw, can’t thank the calibrators enough), and I can say without a doubt that film-based bluray content (and possibly all 24p content) should be played using the "Clear" setting; fans of any other setting (perhaps besides anyone who has a custom setting close to Clear) should at least hear me out about how I arrived at this conclusion:

The opening scene of The Dark Knight is a true, reference IMAX (i.e. no letterbox, full 1080p resolution) transfer, and it is a slow zoom to the all-glass building that gets a window busted. During the zoom (and if you're set to Standard or Smooth), you'll see some rows of windows on the building behind the one being zoomed in on sort of smear, then the same thing will happen to the vertical lines of the decorative rooftop caps in the foreground. Finally, just before the zoom ends, one of the windows is a vent (very obvious) that will show some jumpiness of the vent lines. If you're set to Clear (or a close custom setting), or even “Off”, none of this happens.

Of course, if this doesn't bother you, or if you think it's a small price to pay for the overall look you get with Standard, then by all means, proceed with your favorite setting. I'm only sharing my findings and informing for the sake of anyone who hasn't yet been able to decide on a setting for AMP, or for anyone else curious.

Of course, as 10k pointed out, good animation content can look amazing with a setting of Smooth, so needless to say, it really depends on the source and material being viewed.

Blade, the dogs look great!
...Galonzo, an amazing AMP test which I just ran. I appreciate the tip. I have been in Standard amp since June (knowing some anomolies at times) and loving it with Clear having been my 2nd choice. On fw 1046.2 i think Clear actually is improved and closer to the overall characteristics of Standard that I love. In standard amp on Dark Knight,a section of the buildng on the left of "subject with window burst and vent" in the opening pan actually does a Michael Jackson move from Thriller as well as some moulding on the building to the right of subject..and of course the vent is "active" as well. Clear setting definately settles those items down. I have never seen such a severe example of the difference. That all said, I'm still not sure that for my overall viewing that I like clear over standard. I am just at a loss of terminology to explain the "effect".....In Standard amp, something just seems a stitch more lifelike and "being there" under the "hd, window to the world" thing...if that makes sense. I really need to test thi more. I saw less obvious difference in 1080i from FIOS but need to experiment as well... Nice find my man!!! ...and glad you liked the dogs...they just are "in my room" when that commercial comes on..freaky how some commercials are demo material. So, this is another lil wrinkle that shows how fw 1046(47) improved pic performance.

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Originally Posted by RickS View Post

Also, the "Samsara" BD disk is eye candy!
ditto, an amazing disc. Reminds me that I need to grab Baraka and "Slum Dog GaZillionairre"...Slumdog is razor on may scenes...
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Originally Posted by timmay77 View Post

The general manager at the HHGregg where I bought it said he would give me as many panels as I wanted until I was happy, pr he would make me a fantastic deal on another TV. Very nice guy. I do not want to drop down to the 60" model, I'm not THAT anal about the picture. No offense to anyone who is. My issue though is it is pretty noticeable when watching scenes with a sky or a white background. I also have some black clouding. Very disappointed. The picture on this TV is pretty awesome. The GM also told me I could audition other TV's in home until I found something I liked.
...Timmay77, i bought my tv at hhgregg; they were amazing in meeting all of my delivery related concerns as well as client retention practices with regard to price drops and exchanging my 1st bd-e6500 bluray player...They want market share and prove it in how they do business. Being the manager of client operations and solutions where i am, I told their manager to send me his resume when he wants to change games...

Love for all things Hi-def...Losing count; 200 plus bluray, 500 plus dvd, 30 plus HDdvd and a rapidly growing 50 plus in the cloud.

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post #12898 of 16240 Old 02-27-2013, 06:21 AM
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I did try to reset everything to default and immediately after that I only changed Contrast to 90-100 and Backlight to ~15, looked at it on 100% Gray (White). Red and Blue were too low and chaining anything under White Balance or 10p WB does not raise them at all (but I can set them up/.they react to changes normally at 80% gray of course). The ONLY way to get Red and Blue to 100% at Gray 100% is to set Contrast ~80 and Backlight ~15 (ftL 41.683). So now I ended up with the following and my lines do look quite nice:

MOVIE Mode
Picture Size -> Screen Fit
Color Tone -> Warm1
Contrast 80
Backlight 15 (ftL 41.683)
Brightness 43
Sharpness 15
Color 50
White Balance/Red Gain -> 29
White Balance/Blue Gain -> 31
White Balance/Red Offset -> 28
White Balance/Blue Offset -> 23
Hi there, have you changed the HCFR white point reference away from 6500k to whatever Warm1 corresponds to? If not, you are trying to calibrate 6500k using Warm1 which is probably more like 7500-8000k. If that is the problem then it makes sense that you would run out of red gain trying to get to 6500k whitepoint. Try using Warm2 instead, or if you don't like Warm2, measure color temperature using default white point settings in warm1 and change the whitepoint reference in HCFR to match.


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post #12899 of 16240 Old 02-27-2013, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Bladerunner1959 View Post

...Galonzo, an amazing AMP test which I just ran. I appreciate the tip. I have been in Standard amp since June (knowing some anomolies at times) and loving it with Clear having been my 2nd choice. On fw 1046.2 i think Clear actually is improved and closer to the overall characteristics of Standard that I love. In standard amp on Dark Knight,a section of the buildng on the left of "subject with window burst and vent" in the opening pan actually does a Michael Jackson move from Thriller as well as some moulding on the building to the right of subject..and of course the vent is "active" as well. Clear setting definately settles those items down. I have never seen such a severe example of the difference. That all said, I'm still not sure that for my overall viewing that I like clear over standard. I am just at a loss of terminology to explain the "effect".....In Standard amp, something just seems a stitch more lifelike and "being there" under the "hd, window to the world" thing...if that makes sense. I really need to test thi more. I saw less obvious difference in 1080i from FIOS but need to experiment as well.
For anyone playing videogames, "Off" is probably the best setting. You can see how badly AMP screws with games easily if you play any game with a third person over the shoulder camera. Stand in one place and spin the camera around. AMP will create a halo of pixel soup around the character while the camera is spinning.


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post #12900 of 16240 Old 02-27-2013, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Bladerunner1959 View Post

Cmay91472, did you see my dog pic back there? LOL


Yes, I really would put pix of scenes from my 8000 up against any comparison...of any tv. My weakness is that I only have a windows phone camera so I don't think it fairly shows my scenes...i could be wrong. I didn't get feedback on the dogs!!! LOL I think they look incredible
Did you post your calibrations and if so, how far back were they? Thank you sir!
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