AVS Forum banner
1M views 16K replies 720 participants last post by  Canuck_TO 
#1 ·

Just bought the ES8000 from best buy. I called my local best buy to see if they had any, she said they have one each at 2 stores locally. I thought, oh ok they are probably show units but ill try anyway. I walked in at the perfect time. They got one in and just opened the box when I asked the guy if I could have it. All he did was cut the tape on the top of the box, the stand wasnt even removed yet (its on the top). He ended up selling it to me. Got some pics if anyone is interested.


Anyway. Im now selling my UN46B8500. Works graet, I have all original packaging and boxes. Im not sure what to sell it for yet. Even though the set is a couple years old, it has maybe a year (or less) worth of use because Ive been out of the country several times since i bought it.
 
#1,722 ·
Also, for ARC etc, you need to use HDMI 2.


Hrm, looks like your AMP can in fact to all the video processing the TV can do, this is likely where your problem is, too much processing being applied.


And good lord, why did they add that much to an AVR.

I would go into your picture menu, and disable everything you can. And set resolution to "Through" as well.


Also, update the firmware on the AVR if you've not yet.
 
#1,724 ·
Mid-Sept from what I heard, but there's not many in the pipe, at least in Canada, IIRC, there was like 10k set for Canada this year, just like the OLED's.


But again, they may not land, larger screen were expected last year, and never showed.


I'll send someone I know an e-mail and see what he says.
 
#1,725 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by nitra  /t/1399319/official-samsung-unxxes8000-thread/1710#post_22230381


Also, for ARC etc, you need to use HDMI 2.

Hrm, looks like your AMP can in fact to all the video processing the TV can do, this is likely where your problem is, too much processing being applied.

And good lord, why did they add that much to an AVR.

I would go into your picture menu, and disable everything you can. And set resolution to "Through" as well.

Also, update the firmware on the AVR if you've not yet.

Yeah, that receiver does a LOT of stuff. OK, I hooked it up to HDMI2, I didn't have a lot of time to watch right now, but I tried it 10 minutes with the receiver off, and 10 minutes with it on, and didn't notice the stuttering issue during that time. Since I normally notice it all the time, it seems like that might have fixed it. I'll respond back tomorrow after I watch some shows tonight.
 
#1,726 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2  /t/1399319/official-samsung-unxxes8000-thread/1710#post_22230228


My Yamaha RX-A800 is supposed to have an excellent video processor. However I run my FiOS directly into my tv without going through the receiver due to all my HDMI ports on my receiver being used.

When would I want film mode enabled, and what's the difference between film mode 1 and 2? Why would I want or not want it enabled when using AMP? When FiOS is set at 1080i I have had the film mode set to film mode 2, and when Fios is set to 720p it is of course disabled.

I should think that 720p would be the "safe" way to go since then it isn't interlaced and the tv wouldn't have to deal with the wrong film mode clashing with AMP. But it stutters on 720p mode also. I haven't been using it yet with my blu-rays but I'll see how it goes tonight with some 1080p@23.976 blu-ray material. Am I correct that I should have the blu-ray set to output 24Hz and then enable AMP?

CNET recommends always using "Auto1" for Film mode (which is active on 1080i sources and 480i sources only)
 
#1,728 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by nitra  /t/1399319/official-samsung-unxxes8000-thread/1710#post_22230623


CNET also recommends a plasma, I'd take what they recommend with a grain of salt.

Their recommendation also takes into account that the sources are not adjusted by other means.

Nevertheless, that info is 100% accurate and I've seen it stated by other sources as well.
 
#1,729 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by nitra  /t/1399319/official-samsung-unxxes8000-thread/1710#post_22230357


Don't use HDMI port 1.

HDMI port 1 is meant for Computer use only. (I wish Samsung would detail this more in the manual.

So 1 port is not to be used for anything and then they take away another port, leaving us with only 2 ports this year? So why can't we use port 1 for home video? What makes it different?


I heard if you're connecting your pc to the tv you should be using a particular port, but that shouldn't mean that the port can only be used for that.


Also, my pc is connected via HDMI to my receiver, along with my blu-ray player, media players, and dvd player. My pc is connected to my receiver so I can get surround sound for my games and media over HDMI. Trying to get proper surround for my pc over optical is a constant nightmare, so HDMI makes it so much easier. Then the receiver is connected to port 2. So I guess this is wrong? I want arc so I think it should be connected to 2. However, when I switch my receiver to the pc input, I use the tv for gaming and surfing, so should it be connected to port 1 for the benefit of the pc? But then you said port 1 should only be for pc use.


Totally confusing.
 
#1,730 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U  /t/1399319/official-samsung-unxxes8000-thread/1710#post_22230753


Nevertheless, that info is 100% accurate and I've seen it stated by other sources as well.

Which leaves us all totally confused. And of course Samsung tells us nothing useful about how to actually use the set.


I hear leave it on film 1. I hear leave film mode off. I hear never use port 1. I hear set FiOS to 720p. I hear set FiOS to 1080i. No wonder nobody can get their sets working smoothly.
 
#1,733 ·
I have been using film mode 2 because I noticed that with film mode 1, scrolling tickers stuttered, with AMP off. I found with film mode 2 the tickers seemed to not stutter, so I thought film mode 2 was ideal.


I still have no idea what the difference is. It would be nice if Samsung provided some info on when each mode should be used.


So would I be losing anything when I use my pc if I run my receiver to HDMI port 2 like it is currently? What benefit does using port 1 have for the pc over port 2 or 3? If I leave it as is then my pc will effectively be plugged into port 2, through my receiver. Is this not ideal for the pc image?
 
#1,735 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by nitra  /t/1399319/official-samsung-unxxes8000-thread/1710#post_22230779


HDMI1 is also a DVI port, that's the reason.

There's also other functions on it that have been neutered as well to accommodate DVI.

Any citation for this? I have to admit it just sounds ridiculous. I've used many DVI sources with HDMI ports without issue, and no problems when subsequently using them for HDMI.
 
#1,738 ·
Hi guys, this is my first post and just really wanted to share how awesome it's been reading this thread so far. It has given me a lot of useful info and allowed me to make a more educated purchase. I've been using this little wonder (UN55ES8000) for 3 weeks now and I must say it's been a pleasure coming from a LN55C6000 series. I tried the PNE8000 first but, eventhough the blacks were very inky, the whole picture was just... I don't know, dim and a little bit too soft for my taste. But, after some glorius HD gaming on the ES8000 I knew it was a keeper, everything looked just so stunning that it was almost ridiculous! It makes me very sad to hear so many people frustrated and having so many issues with clouding and flashlighting that I feel almost guilty about having such a particularly problem free set. And you know what? I'm gonna share my secret!



I use my set almost exclusively for Xbox360, PS3 (Bluray) and PC gaming and at first I started using the Movie mode with Nitra's settings but something was off... I like a very bright and pop picture for my games and, even with the backlight at 16-20 the Movie mode produced a very dim and dull image that I didn't like very much. And to top it off it was full of clouding and light bleed from the top left corner. I got really frustrated to say the least because the black level performance with the lights off was really bad... just take a look at the black loading screen from Battlefield 3 in Movie Mode with the backlight at 12 (sorry for the crappy picture quality, it's from my phone
)

Movie Mode.jpg 140k .jpg file


Then I started messing around with the settings, changed to Standard Mode and... voila! The freaking clouding and light bleeds were almost non-existent! I couldn't believe it!


Just take a look at the same black loading screen with the same settings as before but in Standard Mode:
Standard Mode.jpg 87k .jpg file


It was freaking unbelievable to see that much difference by just changing the picture mode to Standard with THE SAME SETTINGS as before! And to top it off, the picture was a whole lot brighter too... I changed the backlight level in Standard mode to 10 and even then it was brighter than the Movie mode at 20, go figure.

I'm guessing that, maybe the micro-dimming is working better or as intended in Standard and not so much in Movie mode? Or maybe I got lucky with this panel
Either way, I believe there are far too many people following blindly the general given advice of always using Movie mode just because it's closer to the reference stantdard from factory ... But you know what? I couldn't care less about the reference standard because for gaming I like a very bright, colorful and motion interpolated picture (yes, the "sopa opera effect" makes the old head-ache induncing motion of xbox360 games more bearable albeit introducing some lag which for slow paced games I don't mind that much) with a normal or cool color temperature. And, at the end of the day, the results of calibration should be the same even if you start on Movie Mode or Standard so I'll suggest that, if you're just tired of the cloudiness, light bleeds and un-even uniformity just give the standard mode a try before dismissing it off. The only thing you're gona miss it's the 10p White Balance and the Black Enhancer but... the picture just looks incredible anyway. And most importantly, just use the settings YOU are comfortable with not just some random suggestion from some over-enthusiast reviewer at some random site (David Katsmaier I'm lookin at you! I wasted so much time with the PNE8000 and VT50 even when my eyes where telling me that this LED was far more sexy
)


Well, sorry for the rant... it's time for me to stop messing around with calibration bla bla bla and enjoy some fine HD gaming and some bluray extravaganzaaaaa! See ya!


Edit 1: BTW, I use Dynamic Contrast at low and the Eco Sensor at 8 minimum, it's amazing how it adjusts the backlight automatically to an adequate level at night. Just an added bonus to a phenomal set!
 

Attachments

#1,740 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2  /t/1399319/official-samsung-unxxes8000-thread/1680_60#post_22231053


Well if that information is correct regarding HDMI 1 being pc only then it should be available somewhere. If I called Samsung on this would they actually give me any accurate info on that or would they play the "stupid" game?

Hi,


Have a look at the quick quide here - It seems to be the most detailed of the ones listed there. Look at page 20 and then thereafter:

http://www.samsung.com/us/support/owners/product/UN65ES8000FXZA


Just doing a quick scan through the pdf indicates there may be some limitations with HDMI(DVI) but the aforementioned page 20 states:


"Using an HDMI Cable for an HD connection (up to 1080p, HD digital signals)

For the best quality HD picture, we recommend using an HDMI connection.

Use with DVD players, Blu-ray players, HD cable boxes, and HD Set-Top-Box satellite receivers." and it then shows a diagram with such a device connecting to any of the 3 HDMI inputs.


Edit: I did a more detailed search through the pdf and I actually did not see any restrictions mentioned for HDMI IN 1 (DVI)
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top