Originally Posted by tcruise7771
Willie, as i said before , the backlight settings are a personal choise. The most options i advice to have is the Shop mode and the Graphics scene selection. I have exmplained about the capping and the limiting of the tv made by HOME mode and why it is there in your tv - only to serve a EU directive for Energy Eficient devices , which is artificial. You can always have the backlight to the losest settings if you use Shop Mode. For MOVIES from my HDPC computer ( Blurays and 1080p rips ) i have the backlight from 5 to 8 depending on is it a day or a night time . I personally find 8 too much for watching movies at night, but it is perfect for watching a movie on a sunny day even if you have a heavy set of curtains. For XBOX360 via HDMI and 1080p PC timing i have the same settings like for the PC HDMI input, with the only difference is i have the backlight set to 8-10.
After the many tests i have done my settings are the following:
Initial SET UP ( you do not have to reset ur factory settings just go to:
1) Home menu -> System Settings - > Auto Start up
( it will not reset ur settings ) from there make sure you choose SHOP
mode, ( you can have the tv statistics options to NO , if u dont want bugs to be sent to Sony`s server , then in couple of screens you will be asked : DO you want to enable Demo mode? SELECT NO !
2) If you are watching a HDMI source with 1080p PC timing like for example : computer,xbox360/ps3,laptop, any form of tablet that gives 1080p output via HDMI, Good quality Blu-ray player or a movie player or even if you have a top end cable/sat tv box that outputs 1080p PC timing , WOULD BE ABLE TO OUTPUT 1920x1080 @ 60Hz PC TIMING WITH FULL RGB colors. THERE IS A HUGE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN 1080p @ 60 Hz PC TIMING , and 1080p VIDEO SIGNAL. THE FIRST ONE IS RGB and the other USES CRHOMA SUBSAMPLE. IN ORDER TO TELL YOUR TV THAT THE SOURCE OUTPUTS FULL RGB PC TIMING YOU SHOULD SELECT GRAPHICS SCENE SELECTION.
EVEN if your source is crappy 1080i or lower and offers only sub-sampled signals, GRAPHCIS SCENE SELECTION WILL NOT HURT OR MAKE THINGS WORSE, it is your best choise if you are for reproducing the ORIGINAL PICTURE QUALTY OF THE SOURCE.
The only downside of having the GRAPHCIS scene selection is that it will disable some of the digital so called "enhancements" which r not really your friend, unless you are watching a very very low qualty SD content.
3) THE SONY HX750 DOES NOT USES LOW FREQUENCY PULSE WIDTH MODULATION TO CONTROL BACKLIGHT. As i said i have made a hardware/software device that can test various things in a light source and the tv is a light source. I can confirm i was able to detect PWM at frequencies above 50 000Hz on other brands of monitors/notebooks/tvs but IF Sony USES PWM , the frequency is WAY WAY ABOVE THAT TO A LEVEL THAT IT WOULD NOT AFFECT YOUR EYES. FOR EXAMPLE I HAVE POSTED IN MY PREVIOUS POSTS, THAT SAMSUNG USES 133 Hz PWM which can result in eye fatigue , headaces and so on.BUT THE IMPULSE MODE ON THE SONY DOES USES ( PROBABLY SOFTWARE RAN ) PWM to create a FLICKER WHICH IS VERY VERY BAD FOR YOUR EYES. I will test it the following days again, i think may be there is some information i gave about this but the IMPULSE MODE CAUSES THE BACKLIGHT TO FLICKER/STROBE with a frequency of 120Hz.
For information anything frequency of a PWM below 300-400Hz for a Light Emmition Diode light source ( LED ) can be considered as a BAD thing.
4) Ecco sensor and ambient light sensor WERE also added as energy savings for EU directives. They were not designed to improve contrast or picture quality.
They work using a photodiode to detect ambient light, in many cases their photodiodes/phototransistors are cheap , low qualty that are affected by infrared light, which is invisible to human eye. I will not go in much details but HUMAN EYE DOES SEE ONLY A PORTION OF THE LIGHT SPECTRUM. So these sensors will not result in very exact control to how bright or dim is the room. They would give just an average, and they work very bad where there is a SUN light coming in the room. If anyone wants more information about this, ask and i will explain more scientific.Basicly sayd Have everything OFF in Home - System Settings - ECO
5) Home - Display - Screen : Screen Format : FULL , Auto display Area : OFF , Display Area : FULL PIXEL
6) Home - Display - Video input settings :
HDMI Dynamic Range : i have all set to FULL , but that is cos of my sources give 0-255 FULL RGB dynamic range,
You can leave them to auto too , the tv does good job detecting the source. Thought if u use the auto option , it tries to autodetect the Dynamic Range , everytime you run a movie on a PC it causes the screen to flicker/blink once, that can be quite annoying. So its best to know if your source has FULL or Limited Range.
Color Space - i think the auto does good job but you can just incase select ITU709 for 1080i and 1080p and 720p, the other 480p 576p are ITU601. But you can leave the inputs to Auto , from what i experience it detects them proper at least for my sources.
7) The very last are :Picture settings
Target Inputs Current/General - depends if u want to make it a global or just for the input .Picture Mode - Graphics
as i already saidBacklight - 5 to 10
- i have explained when i change it.Contrast : MAXBrightness: 48
, if you want i can explain why , 48 should be chosen but to save space , i will just say , 48 is the best ( you can experiment with 47 and 49 , but below 48 u r just cutting the very dark gray colors and making them black( it will not make the black blacker) but if you choose above 50 it will start cutting the very black and replace it with grayer color.Color i have set to 50Hue 0Color Temperature WARM 1
( previously i might have adviced for Neutral , BUT WARM 1 is betterSharpness : 50Noise reduction , mpeg noise reduction , dot noise reduction , , motion flow are GRAYED OUT AND OFF . Film Mode is OFF
as i have not seen any benefit whatsoever watching a 1080p source. It might be good to have this for a NTSC 480i signal. But for 1080p Blurays i seen no benefit of having it on.
Advanced settingsBlack Corrector -
( personal choise whatever it suits u ) but i find best : LOWAdv . Constrast Enhancer - MediumGamma - "-1"
( minus 1)
And the below is all off . White balance i havent touched as i have no color calibrator and YOU CAN NOT calibrate your colors with just your eye as it adapts to the light.As i said the TV supports 5.1 Doulby Digital via HDMI input , and also it can output 5.1 Doulby Digital. It has FULL RGB 1080p PC TIMING on ALL 4 HDMI PORTS INCLUDING AUDIO VIA HDMI !!!
FOR EXAMPLE SAMSUNG GIVES RGB PC TIMING ONLY ON ONE HDMI PORT WITHOUT AUDIO ( for tvs made before 2012 and including 2012, i am not aware of the new ones )
p.s i am sorry if the text above is badly formatted i will try to format it soon , but was writing it while i had the home menu selected to look at the names of the settings i wrote above , so i was writing "blindly" so somewhere i might have pressed wrong letters and have grammar mistakes, but i hope you will excuse me .