Official Sony KDL-46HX750 & KDL-55HX750 Owners Thread - Page 61 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1801 of 1887 Old 08-28-2013, 08:46 AM
Member
 
willie pastrano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 127
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by gatorboi352 View Post

For me personally the 802 does everything as good or better than the 750. 240 vs 120... Active vs PAssive 3D, none of that means anything up against the eye test. Visually the 802 has been a better TV for me. It's a completely different panel too (from LG)


I didn't know the w802 was 120 hz. Can you see a difference when watching sports?
willie pastrano is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #1802 of 1887 Old 08-28-2013, 12:33 PM
Senior Member
 
gatorboi352's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 288
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by willie pastrano View Post

I didn't know the w802 was 120 hz. Can you see a difference when watching sports?

Not at all.
gatorboi352 is offline  
post #1803 of 1887 Old 08-29-2013, 08:47 AM
Member
 
jim brice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 150
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by willie pastrano View Post

Sounds like you've tried it all. I only drop Gamma to -1 when I'm watching a show or a movie. Games and Sports I raise the Backlight and put gamma at 0.

But for watching tv and movies, I have Gamma -1, Brightness at 49, and Backlight at Min. Everything else is normal and all advanced settings are set to off.
All I have to Say is wow your lucky I need to blanket the clouding with ACE set to high. Or else with it off it looks like my panel has a bad rash lol even a faint yellow and green is visible in the clouding its really bad do you guys think I will get an RA?

Why, Sony? Why?...
jim brice is offline  
post #1804 of 1887 Old 08-29-2013, 09:21 AM
Member
 
jim brice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 150
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by gatorboi352 View Post

For me personally the 802 does everything as good or better than the 750. 240 vs 120... Active vs PAssive 3D, none of that means anything up against the eye test. Visually the 802 has been a better TV for me. It's a completely different panel too (from LG)


So for gaming the refresh looks the same on the 802? That's good I never tried 120hz only 60hz and 240hz. I had the kdl-46v4100 I never had to put advanced settings on with that tv and it was a 2008 tv so that's what angers me about the hx750. It looks worse then a 2008 sony bravia. Except for the fact that it is slim and has a nice refresh rate and 3d.

What did you mean when you said "it's a completely different panel too (from LG)" is that because I mentioned the lm6700? If so I know I was really disappointed with the lm and for the price to. That led had such bad hot spots with yellowing and green, plus the glossy matte panel was horrible it had such bad glaring. I've been getting the **** end of the stick lately with tv's man.


And I just wanna say on a side note... in my opinion plasma just sucks, yeah great black levels but it's so dark that you lose detail in video games and not to mention IR. I had the st60 and swaped it out the 4th day I had it just because of IR.And the way plasmas work it just looks like you have constant picture noise even with noise reduction set to high. I know you guys gotta know what I'm talking about lol.

Thanks for your time guys.

Why, Sony? Why?...
jim brice is offline  
post #1805 of 1887 Old 08-29-2013, 09:27 AM
Member
 
jim brice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 150
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Not to mention I've noticed terrible clouding on Samsung's F8000 like really bad worse then all the tv's mentioned here.look at the pics on the thread only like one dude got a good one... and I think he had eco settings on and a light sensor activated, no way it looked that black with out tweaking and luck.

Why, Sony? Why?...
jim brice is offline  
post #1806 of 1887 Old 08-29-2013, 11:30 AM
Member
 
willie pastrano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 127
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by jim brice View Post

All I have to Say is wow your lucky I need to blanket the clouding with ACE set to high. Or else with it off it looks like my panel has a bad rash lol even a faint yellow and green is visible in the clouding its really bad do you guys think I will get an RA?


Damn, lol, a bad rash????? Sorry man. That sucks.


For the price that we invest in these tvs, it's ridiculous for clouding to be that bad.
willie pastrano is offline  
post #1807 of 1887 Old 08-29-2013, 01:36 PM
Member
 
jim brice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 150
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Yup Damn right that's why I can't even imagine dropping 5,000 dollars on a tv because all the top tier tv's will most likely have it to. I heard stories that the 4k uhd tv's have it to, then there is oled and if the tiniest reflection of light shines on the panel it shoots a line across the whole screen.

But maybe the future will have something nice for us in store...literally lol.

Why, Sony? Why?...
jim brice is offline  
post #1808 of 1887 Old 08-30-2013, 09:46 AM
Member
 
willie pastrano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 127
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by jim brice View Post

Yup Damn right that's why I can't even imagine dropping 5,000 dollars on a tv because all the top tier tv's will most likely have it to. I heard stories that the 4k uhd tv's have it to, then there is oled and if the tiniest reflection of light shines on the panel it shoots a line across the whole screen.

But maybe the future will have something nice for us in store...literally lol.

Wow. I never heard that about OLED's. I wonder what's the safest bet for flat panels.
willie pastrano is offline  
post #1809 of 1887 Old 08-30-2013, 09:51 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Latinoheat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: BC Canada
Posts: 1,690
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 111 Post(s)
Liked: 152
Quote:
Originally Posted by willie pastrano View Post

Wow. I never heard that about OLED's. I wonder what's the safest bet for flat panels.

OLED is the future technology for flat panels , they are already on sale but for a hefty price tag. There are lots of threads on the subject.

TV - Panasonic 55GT50Main Speakers - Klipsch Gallery G28'sCenter Channel- Klipsch RC-52Sub - Klipsch Sub 12Surrounds - Klipsch RS-52 II (new)Bluray/Game - HTPC/PS3Receiver - Onkyo RC-360HTPC - Intel Core i3, HDMI,Windows 7,XBMC,Bluray,3 TB,wireless WMC keyboardVideo processor - Darbee
Latinoheat is online now  
post #1810 of 1887 Old 08-30-2013, 01:54 PM
Member
 
willie pastrano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 127
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Latinoheat View Post

OLED is the future technology for flat panels , they are already on sale but for a hefty price tag. There are lots of threads on the subject.


I've heard of OLEDS but never about a reflective line running across the screen.
willie pastrano is offline  
post #1811 of 1887 Old 08-30-2013, 03:41 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Latinoheat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: BC Canada
Posts: 1,690
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 111 Post(s)
Liked: 152
I'm with you.

TV - Panasonic 55GT50Main Speakers - Klipsch Gallery G28'sCenter Channel- Klipsch RC-52Sub - Klipsch Sub 12Surrounds - Klipsch RS-52 II (new)Bluray/Game - HTPC/PS3Receiver - Onkyo RC-360HTPC - Intel Core i3, HDMI,Windows 7,XBMC,Bluray,3 TB,wireless WMC keyboardVideo processor - Darbee
Latinoheat is online now  
post #1812 of 1887 Old 09-02-2013, 09:35 AM
Member
 
tcruise7771's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 111
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by gnuf View Post

The best settings I have seen on this TV are with tcruise7771's settings. Changing to shop mode, using "Graphics" and his numbers. The picture is amazing.

Post #1109 in this thread. You will not be disappointed.

Thanks , havent been on the forum since 4-5 months , have very interesting things to post . Was busy doing my own propietary hardware and software for it for testing TV`s and Monitors , but will reveal more later , still its only a prototype, thought it works great smile.gif But would have to see what pathents i can put for the device before i really anounce it . So far i had an A on my bachelors degree diploma project , thanks to it , and it amazed the teachers , was wondered would you all , TV "freaks" like me , be amazed smile.gif
tcruise7771 is offline  
post #1813 of 1887 Old 09-02-2013, 09:45 AM
Member
 
tcruise7771's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 111
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterXDTV View Post

I'm using NEUTRAL Temperature with Graphics Scene as Tcruise suggested, but How can I measure the K to know If I'm close to 6500K?

Either with a calibration device , or with a DSLR camera.
tcruise7771 is offline  
post #1814 of 1887 Old 09-02-2013, 03:50 PM
Member
 
tcruise7771's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 111
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Berseker View Post

graphics mode isn't a staple....choose the settings that enjoy you more.....for example I don't use any filter except black correction (low), Auto Light Limite (low), so Graphic mode for me is perfect(thanks to the other settings in the picture menu the image is crispy and detailed, and black are very good) ...obviously if you like to use other filters you have to choose other picture settings since in graphics mode most of them are disabled.

Guys as i said Graphics mode is better in certain scenarios , when you have a RGB 1080p signal with PC timing out of your bluray player , when you have an XBOX360/PS3 , when you hook your tv to the monitor , and if your cable box supports PC /monitor timings. If your source has chroma subsample , then choosing graphics would not give better picture as your source is flawed. For what i wrote i provided pictures. Graphics mode is spoken for in a lot of threads in this forum , and most of all it is described also in Sony's manual ! Again GRAPHICS MODE WILL NOT MAKE SD content from your cable operator box better, unless its outputting it as a 1080p PC timing. There is very huge difference than a 1080p video format , and 1080p PC timing. ALSO IT , in most cases is not even present when u hook it up to 1080i source or lower.

As Berseker and i said , Graphics mode is an OPTION , and it is mostly for certain situation i described. If you want to have all the digital filters and addons that distort and lower the real image qualty, that is your choise. Graphics mode is the option that will give the picture qualty that is the closest to the original source.
tcruise7771 is offline  
post #1815 of 1887 Old 09-02-2013, 04:11 PM
Member
 
tcruise7771's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 111
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by willie pastrano View Post

I switched to Impulse motion flow last night.

Has anyone else tried this?

I don't see anymore banding, and if you put advanced contrast on Low, then it pretty much takes care of the lights in the corners showing in dark scenes.

I recommend at least giving Impulse a try if banding is bothering you. I makes everything darker so I would Max the backlight option.

I would NOT recomend impulse mode as it gives pulsating light , that generates flicker. Even if that flicker is impossible to be spotted by your eye , because of the residual image/ghost image capability of your eye , your retina still can contract at flickers even abit above 120Hz. Basicly every light source that has a pulsating flicker , or uses Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) to control the backlight or the light of the source at all and has a frequency less than at least 150Hz is really bad for your eyes.

In my previous posts i gave a video demonstration of comparison of SAMSUNG vs SONY , with a higher camera speed shutter. You can clearly see the flicker of the Samsung which is because it uses PWM to control the backlight. Sony either DOES NOT USES PWM , OR IT USES PWM with a high frequency LED driver , which gives freq above 500 000 Hz, that would not cause any trouble at all. BUT when you turn that Impulse mode , you r basicly asking the software of the motherboard to give a software flicker , which is very bad. From what i remember it was either 100Hz or 120Hz , thought i can test it again if anyone cares for Impulse mode.
tcruise7771 is offline  
post #1816 of 1887 Old 09-03-2013, 07:51 AM
Member
 
willie pastrano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 127
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by tcruise7771 View Post

I would NOT recomend impulse mode as it gives pulsating light , that generates flicker. Even if that flicker is impossible to be spotted by your eye , because of the residual image/ghost image capability of your eye , your retina still can contract at flickers even abit above 120Hz. Basicly every light source that has a pulsating flicker , or uses Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) to control the backlight or the light of the source at all and has a frequency less than at least 150Hz is really bad for your eyes.

In my previous posts i gave a video demonstration of comparison of SAMSUNG vs SONY , with a higher camera speed shutter. You can clearly see the flicker of the Samsung which is because it uses PWM to control the backlight. Sony either DOES NOT USES PWM , OR IT USES PWM with a high frequency LED driver , which gives freq above 500 000 Hz, that would not cause any trouble at all. BUT when you turn that Impulse mode , you r basicly asking the software of the motherboard to give a software flicker , which is very bad. From what i remember it was either 100Hz or 120Hz , thought i can test it again if anyone cares for Impulse mode.


Thanks TCruise. I tried it out for a bit but the Impulse makes everything so hazy and dark that I decided against it anyways. But the picture looks pretty clear for some reason as far as no artifacts.

I have a question for you though. Do you still recommend having the Backlight raised so high as you did in your Graphics Settings post? I tried your exact settings but it makes the blacks look not so black to me. I like how it looks with the Backlight minimized a lot better.
willie pastrano is offline  
post #1817 of 1887 Old 09-03-2013, 08:44 AM
Member
 
tcruise7771's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 111
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 17
Willie, as i said before , the backlight settings are a personal choise. The most options i advice to have is the Shop mode and the Graphics scene selection. I have exmplained about the capping and the limiting of the tv made by HOME mode and why it is there in your tv - only to serve a EU directive for Energy Eficient devices , which is artificial. You can always have the backlight to the losest settings if you use Shop Mode. For MOVIES from my HDPC computer ( Blurays and 1080p rips ) i have the backlight from 5 to 8 depending on is it a day or a night time . I personally find 8 too much for watching movies at night, but it is perfect for watching a movie on a sunny day even if you have a heavy set of curtains. For XBOX360 via HDMI and 1080p PC timing i have the same settings like for the PC HDMI input, with the only difference is i have the backlight set to 8-10.

After the many tests i have done my settings are the following:

Initial SET UP ( you do not have to reset ur factory settings just go to:

1) Home menu -> System Settings - > Auto Start up ( it will not reset ur settings ) from there make sure you choose SHOP mode, ( you can have the tv statistics options to NO , if u dont want bugs to be sent to Sony`s server , then in couple of screens you will be asked : DO you want to enable Demo mode? SELECT NO !

2) If you are watching a HDMI source with 1080p PC timing like for example : computer,xbox360/ps3,laptop, any form of tablet that gives 1080p output via HDMI, Good quality Blu-ray player or a movie player or even if you have a top end cable/sat tv box that outputs 1080p PC timing , WOULD BE ABLE TO OUTPUT 1920x1080 @ 60Hz PC TIMING WITH FULL RGB colors. THERE IS A HUGE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN 1080p @ 60 Hz PC TIMING , and 1080p VIDEO SIGNAL. THE FIRST ONE IS RGB and the other USES CRHOMA SUBSAMPLE. IN ORDER TO TELL YOUR TV THAT THE SOURCE OUTPUTS FULL RGB PC TIMING YOU SHOULD SELECT GRAPHICS SCENE SELECTION. EVEN if your source is crappy 1080i or lower and offers only sub-sampled signals, GRAPHCIS SCENE SELECTION WILL NOT HURT OR MAKE THINGS WORSE, it is your best choise if you are for reproducing the ORIGINAL PICTURE QUALTY OF THE SOURCE. The only downside of having the GRAPHCIS scene selection is that it will disable some of the digital so called "enhancements" which r not really your friend, unless you are watching a very very low qualty SD content.

3) THE SONY HX750 DOES NOT USES LOW FREQUENCY PULSE WIDTH MODULATION TO CONTROL BACKLIGHT. As i said i have made a hardware/software device that can test various things in a light source and the tv is a light source. I can confirm i was able to detect PWM at frequencies above 50 000Hz on other brands of monitors/notebooks/tvs but IF Sony USES PWM , the frequency is WAY WAY ABOVE THAT TO A LEVEL THAT IT WOULD NOT AFFECT YOUR EYES. FOR EXAMPLE I HAVE POSTED IN MY PREVIOUS POSTS, THAT SAMSUNG USES 133 Hz PWM which can result in eye fatigue , headaces and so on.

BUT THE IMPULSE MODE ON THE SONY DOES USES ( PROBABLY SOFTWARE RAN ) PWM to create a FLICKER WHICH IS VERY VERY BAD FOR YOUR EYES. I will test it the following days again, i think may be there is some information i gave about this but the IMPULSE MODE CAUSES THE BACKLIGHT TO FLICKER/STROBE with a frequency of 120Hz.
For information anything frequency of a PWM below 300-400Hz for a Light Emmition Diode light source ( LED ) can be considered as a BAD thing.

4) Ecco sensor and ambient light sensor WERE also added as energy savings for EU directives. They were not designed to improve contrast or picture quality. They work using a photodiode to detect ambient light, in many cases their photodiodes/phototransistors are cheap , low qualty that are affected by infrared light, which is invisible to human eye. I will not go in much details but HUMAN EYE DOES SEE ONLY A PORTION OF THE LIGHT SPECTRUM. So these sensors will not result in very exact control to how bright or dim is the room. They would give just an average, and they work very bad where there is a SUN light coming in the room. If anyone wants more information about this, ask and i will explain more scientific.

Basicly sayd Have everything OFF in Home - System Settings - ECO

5) Home - Display - Screen : Screen Format : FULL , Auto display Area : OFF , Display Area : FULL PIXEL

6) Home - Display - Video input settings :
HDMI Dynamic Range : i have all set to FULL , but that is cos of my sources give 0-255 FULL RGB dynamic range,
You can leave them to auto too , the tv does good job detecting the source. Thought if u use the auto option , it tries to autodetect the Dynamic Range , everytime you run a movie on a PC it causes the screen to flicker/blink once, that can be quite annoying. So its best to know if your source has FULL or Limited Range.

Color Space - i think the auto does good job but you can just incase select ITU709 for 1080i and 1080p and 720p, the other 480p 576p are ITU601. But you can leave the inputs to Auto , from what i experience it detects them proper at least for my sources.

7) The very last are :

Picture settings :

Target Inputs Current/General - depends if u want to make it a global or just for the input .
Picture Mode - Graphics as i already said
Backlight - 5 to 10 - i have explained when i change it.
Contrast : MAX
Brightness: 48, if you want i can explain why , 48 should be chosen but to save space , i will just say , 48 is the best ( you can experiment with 47 and 49 , but below 48 u r just cutting the very dark gray colors and making them black( it will not make the black blacker) but if you choose above 50 it will start cutting the very black and replace it with grayer color.
Color i have set to 50
Hue 0
Color Temperature WARM 1 ( previously i might have adviced for Neutral , BUT WARM 1 is better
Sharpness : 50

Noise reduction , mpeg noise reduction , dot noise reduction , , motion flow are GRAYED OUT AND OFF . Film Mode is OFF as i have not seen any benefit whatsoever watching a 1080p source. It might be good to have this for a NTSC 480i signal. But for 1080p Blurays i seen no benefit of having it on.

Advanced settings

Black Corrector - ( personal choise whatever it suits u ) but i find best : LOW
Adv . Constrast Enhancer - Medium
Gamma - "-1" ( minus 1)
And the below is all off . White balance i havent touched as i have no color calibrator and YOU CAN NOT calibrate your colors with just your eye as it adapts to the light.

As i said the TV supports 5.1 Doulby Digital via HDMI input , and also it can output 5.1 Doulby Digital. It has FULL RGB 1080p PC TIMING on ALL 4 HDMI PORTS INCLUDING AUDIO VIA HDMI !!! FOR EXAMPLE SAMSUNG GIVES RGB PC TIMING ONLY ON ONE HDMI PORT WITHOUT AUDIO ( for tvs made before 2012 and including 2012, i am not aware of the new ones )


p.s i am sorry if the text above is badly formatted i will try to format it soon , but was writing it while i had the home menu selected to look at the names of the settings i wrote above , so i was writing "blindly" so somewhere i might have pressed wrong letters and have grammar mistakes, but i hope you will excuse me .
tcruise7771 is offline  
post #1818 of 1887 Old 09-03-2013, 10:13 AM
Senior Member
 
gatorboi352's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 288
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 18
It's important to note that tcruise's settings are for EU sets. I think some folks on this side of the pond are not considering this, especially in regards to his reasoning behind using SHOP mode vs. HOME mode.
gatorboi352 is offline  
post #1819 of 1887 Old 09-03-2013, 03:24 PM
Member
 
tcruise7771's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 111
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by gatorboi352 View Post

It's important to note that tcruise's settings are for EU sets. I think some folks on this side of the pond are not considering this, especially in regards to his reasoning behind using SHOP mode vs. HOME mode.

I am not quite sure what you say is true. As the reason Shop and Home mode was invented was for Energy Star measures. And while the directive i quoted before is EU directive , Energy Star is worldwide. So it is very rational and logical for the same difference for choosing SHOP or HOME mode in an USA set, otherwise they would have stuck just with DEMO mode rather than having an option for Home / SHOP mode and if you are in shop mode to be able to choose DEMO mode for demonstration purposes in the shops. Also it has been confirmed for many Sony`s ( other models ) that the USA version does have the capping in the home mode .

Anyway, some people never change.
tcruise7771 is offline  
post #1820 of 1887 Old 09-03-2013, 07:22 PM
AVS Special Member
 
steve1971's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,782
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 82 Post(s)
Liked: 232
Quote:
Originally Posted by gatorboi352 View Post

It's important to note that tcruise's settings are for EU sets. I think some folks on this side of the pond are not considering this, especially in regards to his reasoning behind using SHOP mode vs. HOME mode.


Be careful gator. You might upset some people by what you wrote. All I can say is thank god I don't own the HX750 anymore so I don't have to have be apart of this debate! eek.gif So I will just keep quiet and watch from the sidelines. wink.gif
steve1971 is offline  
post #1821 of 1887 Old 09-03-2013, 11:44 PM
Member
 
tcruise7771's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 111
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by steve1971 View Post

Be careful gator. You might upset some people by what you wrote. All I can say is thank god I don't own the HX750 anymore so I don't have to have be apart of this debate! eek.gif So I will just keep quiet and watch from the sidelines. wink.gif

Steve, its just a TV. Everyone can use the settings he wishes. I think choosing someone`s settings and testing them takes about 2 minutes, and since it does no harm would be the better thing to do. Comments like" this is for EU sets and not USA sets " dont serve much good, based on just someone`s opinion who doesnt even bothered to took a picture with a camera with the same shutter/iso/exposure settings. I have given tons of pictures and proof to backup my words. It would be nice if finally someone with a USA set make pictures, taken in the ways i have previously explained.
tcruise7771 is offline  
post #1822 of 1887 Old 09-04-2013, 05:50 AM
AVS Special Member
 
steve1971's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,782
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 82 Post(s)
Liked: 232
Quote:
Originally Posted by tcruise7771 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by steve1971 View Post

Be careful gator. You might upset some people by what you wrote. All I can say is thank god I don't own the HX750 anymore so I don't have to have be apart of this debate! eek.gif So I will just keep quiet and watch from the sidelines. wink.gif

Steve, its just a TV. Everyone can use the settings he wishes. I think choosing someone`s settings and testing them takes about 2 minutes, and since it does no harm would be the better thing to do. Comments like" this is for EU sets and not USA sets " dont serve much good, based on just someone`s opinion who doesnt even bothered to took a picture with a camera with the same shutter/iso/exposure settings. I have given tons of pictures and proof to backup my words. It would be nice if finally someone with a USA set make pictures, taken in the ways i have previously explained.


I will give you this tcruise and that's that you have backed up what you have wrote with pic's and so fourth so I wont take that away from you and I will give you credit for it. Even though I don't agree with your settings its your choice and what you and others think gives them a picture they are happy with and that's all that matters. Again I may not agree but it all comes down to personal choice.
steve1971 is offline  
post #1823 of 1887 Old 09-04-2013, 06:45 AM
Member
 
tcruise7771's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 111
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by steve1971 View Post

I will give you this tcruise and that's that you have backed up what you have wrote with pic's and so fourth so I wont take that away from you and I will give you credit for it. Even though I don't agree with your settings its your choice and what you and others think gives them a picture they are happy with and that's all that matters. Again I may not agree but it all comes down to personal choice.

Buddy if you were living close to me, I would invite you for a cup of coffee and to watch a blu-ray movie, so you can be amazed by how good this tv is with the right settings smile.gif
tcruise7771 is offline  
post #1824 of 1887 Old 09-04-2013, 10:24 AM
Member
 
willie pastrano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 127
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by tcruise7771 View Post

Willie, as i said before , the backlight settings are a personal choise. The most options i advice to have is the Shop mode and the Graphics scene selection. I have exmplained about the capping and the limiting of the tv made by HOME mode and why it is there in your tv - only to serve a EU directive for Energy Eficient devices , which is artificial. You can always have the backlight to the losest settings if you use Shop Mode. For MOVIES from my HDPC computer ( Blurays and 1080p rips ) i have the backlight from 5 to 8 depending on is it a day or a night time . I personally find 8 too much for watching movies at night, but it is perfect for watching a movie on a sunny day even if you have a heavy set of curtains. For XBOX360 via HDMI and 1080p PC timing i have the same settings like for the PC HDMI input, with the only difference is i have the backlight set to 8-10.

After the many tests i have done my settings are the following:

Initial SET UP ( you do not have to reset ur factory settings just go to:

1) Home menu -> System Settings - > Auto Start up ( it will not reset ur settings ) from there make sure you choose SHOP mode, ( you can have the tv statistics options to NO , if u dont want bugs to be sent to Sony`s server , then in couple of screens you will be asked : DO you want to enable Demo mode? SELECT NO !

2) If you are watching a HDMI source with 1080p PC timing like for example : computer,xbox360/ps3,laptop, any form of tablet that gives 1080p output via HDMI, Good quality Blu-ray player or a movie player or even if you have a top end cable/sat tv box that outputs 1080p PC timing , WOULD BE ABLE TO OUTPUT 1920x1080 @ 60Hz PC TIMING WITH FULL RGB colors. THERE IS A HUGE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN 1080p @ 60 Hz PC TIMING , and 1080p VIDEO SIGNAL. THE FIRST ONE IS RGB and the other USES CRHOMA SUBSAMPLE. IN ORDER TO TELL YOUR TV THAT THE SOURCE OUTPUTS FULL RGB PC TIMING YOU SHOULD SELECT GRAPHICS SCENE SELECTION. EVEN if your source is crappy 1080i or lower and offers only sub-sampled signals, GRAPHCIS SCENE SELECTION WILL NOT HURT OR MAKE THINGS WORSE, it is your best choise if you are for reproducing the ORIGINAL PICTURE QUALTY OF THE SOURCE. The only downside of having the GRAPHCIS scene selection is that it will disable some of the digital so called "enhancements" which r not really your friend, unless you are watching a very very low qualty SD content.

3) THE SONY HX750 DOES NOT USES LOW FREQUENCY PULSE WIDTH MODULATION TO CONTROL BACKLIGHT. As i said i have made a hardware/software device that can test various things in a light source and the tv is a light source. I can confirm i was able to detect PWM at frequencies above 50 000Hz on other brands of monitors/notebooks/tvs but IF Sony USES PWM , the frequency is WAY WAY ABOVE THAT TO A LEVEL THAT IT WOULD NOT AFFECT YOUR EYES. FOR EXAMPLE I HAVE POSTED IN MY PREVIOUS POSTS, THAT SAMSUNG USES 133 Hz PWM which can result in eye fatigue , headaces and so on.

BUT THE IMPULSE MODE ON THE SONY DOES USES ( PROBABLY SOFTWARE RAN ) PWM to create a FLICKER WHICH IS VERY VERY BAD FOR YOUR EYES. I will test it the following days again, i think may be there is some information i gave about this but the IMPULSE MODE CAUSES THE BACKLIGHT TO FLICKER/STROBE with a frequency of 120Hz.
For information anything frequency of a PWM below 300-400Hz for a Light Emmition Diode light source ( LED ) can be considered as a BAD thing.

4) Ecco sensor and ambient light sensor WERE also added as energy savings for EU directives. They were not designed to improve contrast or picture quality. They work using a photodiode to detect ambient light, in many cases their photodiodes/phototransistors are cheap , low qualty that are affected by infrared light, which is invisible to human eye. I will not go in much details but HUMAN EYE DOES SEE ONLY A PORTION OF THE LIGHT SPECTRUM. So these sensors will not result in very exact control to how bright or dim is the room. They would give just an average, and they work very bad where there is a SUN light coming in the room. If anyone wants more information about this, ask and i will explain more scientific.

Basicly sayd Have everything OFF in Home - System Settings - ECO

5) Home - Display - Screen : Screen Format : FULL , Auto display Area : OFF , Display Area : FULL PIXEL

6) Home - Display - Video input settings :
HDMI Dynamic Range : i have all set to FULL , but that is cos of my sources give 0-255 FULL RGB dynamic range,
You can leave them to auto too , the tv does good job detecting the source. Thought if u use the auto option , it tries to autodetect the Dynamic Range , everytime you run a movie on a PC it causes the screen to flicker/blink once, that can be quite annoying. So its best to know if your source has FULL or Limited Range.

Color Space - i think the auto does good job but you can just incase select ITU709 for 1080i and 1080p and 720p, the other 480p 576p are ITU601. But you can leave the inputs to Auto , from what i experience it detects them proper at least for my sources.

7) The very last are :

Picture settings :

Target Inputs Current/General - depends if u want to make it a global or just for the input .
Picture Mode - Graphics as i already said
Backlight - 5 to 10 - i have explained when i change it.
Contrast : MAX
Brightness: 48, if you want i can explain why , 48 should be chosen but to save space , i will just say , 48 is the best ( you can experiment with 47 and 49 , but below 48 u r just cutting the very dark gray colors and making them black( it will not make the black blacker) but if you choose above 50 it will start cutting the very black and replace it with grayer color.
Color i have set to 50
Hue 0
Color Temperature WARM 1 ( previously i might have adviced for Neutral , BUT WARM 1 is better
Sharpness : 50

Noise reduction , mpeg noise reduction , dot noise reduction , , motion flow are GRAYED OUT AND OFF . Film Mode is OFF as i have not seen any benefit whatsoever watching a 1080p source. It might be good to have this for a NTSC 480i signal. But for 1080p Blurays i seen no benefit of having it on.

Advanced settings

Black Corrector - ( personal choise whatever it suits u ) but i find best : LOW
Adv . Constrast Enhancer - Medium
Gamma - "-1" ( minus 1)
And the below is all off . White balance i havent touched as i have no color calibrator and YOU CAN NOT calibrate your colors with just your eye as it adapts to the light.

As i said the TV supports 5.1 Doulby Digital via HDMI input , and also it can output 5.1 Doulby Digital. It has FULL RGB 1080p PC TIMING on ALL 4 HDMI PORTS INCLUDING AUDIO VIA HDMI !!! FOR EXAMPLE SAMSUNG GIVES RGB PC TIMING ONLY ON ONE HDMI PORT WITHOUT AUDIO ( for tvs made before 2012 and including 2012, i am not aware of the new ones )


p.s i am sorry if the text above is badly formatted i will try to format it soon , but was writing it while i had the home menu selected to look at the names of the settings i wrote above , so i was writing "blindly" so somewhere i might have pressed wrong letters and have grammar mistakes, but i hope you will excuse me .


Thanks again TCruise. You put in a lot of work figuring these settings out.

I agree with the Brightness being set to 48 or 49. And also with Gamma at -1.

So far, the differences in my settings are Backlight at Minimized, Color Temp at Neutral (Warm 1 looks a little unrealistic to me but I'll try it out with your exact settings), and I don't use Advanced Contrast. I'll try your exact settings though and let you know.

Thanks a lot.
willie pastrano is offline  
post #1825 of 1887 Old 09-04-2013, 10:42 AM
AVS Special Member
 
steve1971's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,782
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 82 Post(s)
Liked: 232
Quote:
Originally Posted by tcruise7771 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by steve1971 View Post

I will give you this tcruise and that's that you have backed up what you have wrote with pic's and so fourth so I wont take that away from you and I will give you credit for it. Even though I don't agree with your settings its your choice and what you and others think gives them a picture they are happy with and that's all that matters. Again I may not agree but it all comes down to personal choice.

Buddy if you were living close to me, I would invite you for a cup of coffee and to watch a blu-ray movie, so you can be amazed by how good this tv is with the right settings smile.gif


Indeed. If I lived close I would take you up on your offer. That being said I traded in my HX750 and went with the EISA Award Winning HX850 which in my book is a MAJOR step up from the HX750 in so many ways but that's a whole other story. smile.gif
steve1971 is offline  
post #1826 of 1887 Old 09-04-2013, 03:21 PM
Member
 
tcruise7771's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 111
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by steve1971 View Post

Indeed. If I lived close I would take you up on your offer. That being said I traded in my HX750 and went with the EISA Award Winning HX850 which in my book is a MAJOR step up from the HX750 in so many ways but that's a whole other story. smile.gif

Dude, I thought u did liked your old HX750 more than the 850 smile.gif Actually i thought you loved it and wouldn't trade it for HX850, I know i wouldnt trade for the glarish Gorilla glass TV , thought i would be able to sleep better knowing it can't be scratched by my cat wink.gif
tcruise7771 is offline  
post #1827 of 1887 Old 09-04-2013, 03:35 PM
Member
 
tcruise7771's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 111
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by willie pastrano View Post

Thanks again TCruise. You put in a lot of work figuring these settings out.

I agree with the Brightness being set to 48 or 49. And also with Gamma at -1.

So far, the differences in my settings are Backlight at Minimized, Color Temp at Neutral (Warm 1 looks a little unrealistic to me but I'll try it out with your exact settings), and I don't use Advanced Contrast. I'll try your exact settings though and let you know.

Thanks a lot.

Well the Neutral gives you better contrast , higher brightness and so, also choosing Warm 1 will not make the blacks blacker , but it will sure "dim" the image abit. My initial advice was for Neutral , but from the tests i made its way above 6500K. I have even recorded videos on my Sony NEX-5R , 1080p@60fps and i can say they look more natural in Warm1 , also it seems better for my eyes. Still i have used Neutral for over 2 months in the beggining. Human eye has an the incredible ability to ajust to light intensity and sometimes u may think u r seeing 1000 Lux but its 100 000 Lux, or u are seing a 6500K light(which is fairly whitish) but it actually might be 9000K. The advanced contrast has some downsides , like i can see how the screen brigness changes for example , if i watch a movie and at a certain darkish scene , subtitles come off , everything gets so much brighter. I have found a solution with choosing the adv contrast to Medium and having "offwhite" with bit of transparancy subtitles color .
Anyone the most imporant is that one should be happy with the settings. When he finds the right settings, memorise them and let them be. Sometimes i use to get obsessed everything being perfect....... and that can seriously ruin alot of fun and costs lost time.

If someone asks me what i like most about this tv , is that it has 1:1 pixel mapping , RGB color space with no subsampling ( with graphics scene selection ) and Doulby digital 5.1 audio input ON EVERY HDMI ! Solved so many things for me . Like having to use VGA cable for xbox360 , cos that was the only way to have an SPDIF. Stupid thing is i havent had much free time lately to fully enjoy it frown.gif

If someone asks me what option you have least used or cared , was all internet apps and gadgets and so. And all new TV`s are obssessed , cameras on tv , and so on..... while manifactures should focus on qualty. I still cant ******* believe Samsung uses 133Hz Pulse Width modulation to control brightness but flashes " 2 core cpu or so ", cant they afford 10$ more and make the control of the backlight proper ?
tcruise7771 is offline  
post #1828 of 1887 Old 09-04-2013, 07:32 PM
AVS Special Member
 
steve1971's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,782
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 82 Post(s)
Liked: 232
Quote:
Originally Posted by tcruise7771 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by steve1971 View Post

Indeed. If I lived close I would take you up on your offer. That being said I traded in my HX750 and went with the EISA Award Winning HX850 which in my book is a MAJOR step up from the HX750 in so many ways but that's a whole other story. smile.gif

Dude, I thought u did liked your old HX750 more than the 850 smile.gif Actually i thought you loved it and wouldn't trade it for HX850, I know i wouldnt trade for the glarish Gorilla glass TV , thought i would be able to sleep better knowing it can't be scratched by my cat wink.gif


Yea I thought I loved the HX750 more then the 850...that is until I bought the HX850 and got it home then that was all she wrote! Believe it or not the reflection of the gorilla glass doesn't give off much glare at all. The PQ and black levels of the HX850 blows the 750 out of the water not to mention the 3D on the 850 is out of this world.
steve1971 is offline  
post #1829 of 1887 Old 09-07-2013, 02:46 AM
Member
 
tcruise7771's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 111
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by steve1971 View Post

Yea I thought I loved the HX750 more then the 850...that is until I bought the HX850 and got it home then that was all she wrote! Believe it or not the reflection of the gorilla glass doesn't give off much glare at all. The PQ and black levels of the HX850 blows the 750 out of the water not to mention the 3D on the 850 is out of this world.

Damn you are the perfect fanboy smile.gif You can not just change ur mind like that everytime it suits you. I do not think any TV`s 3D is out of this world , unless it is a 4K , since so far 3D in proper theathres is far far better than any 3DTV. Even if the 850 was better it wouldnt be "blowing the 750 out". But like i always said , the best tv is the one that makes you most happy , as one should enjoy his TV
tcruise7771 is offline  
post #1830 of 1887 Old 09-07-2013, 06:26 AM
AVS Special Member
 
steve1971's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,782
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 82 Post(s)
Liked: 232
Quote:
Originally Posted by tcruise7771 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by steve1971 View Post

Yea I thought I loved the HX750 more then the 850...that is until I bought the HX850 and got it home then that was all she wrote! Believe it or not the reflection of the gorilla glass doesn't give off much glare at all. The PQ and black levels of the HX850 blows the 750 out of the water not to mention the 3D on the 850 is out of this world.

Damn you are the perfect fanboy smile.gif You can not just change ur mind like that everytime it suits you. I do not think any TV`s 3D is out of this world , unless it is a 4K , since so far 3D in proper theathres is far far better than any 3DTV. Even if the 850 was better it wouldnt be "blowing the 750 out". But like i always said , the best tv is the one that makes you most happy , as one should enjoy his TV


Yea I guess I am the Sony fanboy lol. biggrin.gif When I say the 3D on the 850 blows the 3D of the 750 out of the water it does to my eye and it helps that the 850 has the X-Reality PRO 3D Super Resolution which the 750 don't have. As for 4K? Sorry but it doesn't impress me enough to go plunk down $5000 plus for a set and I don't care if its from Sony or not. I love my 850 to death and it was one of the best investments in a tv I ever have made yet.
steve1971 is offline  
Reply LCD Flat Panel Displays

Tags
Lcd Hdtv , Sony Kdl46hx750 46 3d Led Hdtv , Sony Bravia Kdl46hx750 46 Inch 240 Hz 1080p 3d Led Internet Tv , Sony Bravia Kdl55hx750 55 Inch 240hz 1080p 3d Led Internet Tv , Sony Kdl46hx750 46 Inch Led 3d Wifi Xr480 Internet Tv , Sony Kdl46hx750 46 Inch 3d Wifi Xr 480hz Led Hdtv With Bdps590 3d Blu Ray , Sony Kdl55hx750 55 Inch 3d Wifi Xr 480hz Led Hdtv Bdps590 3d Wifi Blu Ray
Gear in this thread - Sony by PriceGrabber.com

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off