Official Samsung UNXXES6100 Thread - Page 16 - AVS Forum
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post #451 of 870 Old 11-30-2012, 06:18 AM
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Just an update on my Netflix issue. Wifi streaming wasn't working very well, or so I thought. The picture quality was mediocre through the TV. I attached an ethernet hard line, temporarily, to test and see if it helped. Some movies looked great, others still looked very soft. I needed a new Blu-ray player anyway, so I picked up a Panasonic DMP-BD87, which has NetFlix wifi built in. It works great and picture quality on everything I tested looks very good.

Weird thing is the Blu-ray player shows only 3 out of 5 bars for wifi signal strength, yet NetFlix plays great. So although maybe I should get a beefier router, obviously the 6100 isn't the greatest NetFlix player.
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post #452 of 870 Old 11-30-2012, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hectorcaliente View Post

From what I know, the 3D version are the UExxEs6100. I wonder if those actually came with the Ultra Clear panel.
I'm surprised your tv is 3D. Did yours also come as the Ultra Clear Panel?

Actually that is what I'm trying to find out, but it may be only the UE European models the ones that come with 3D.

It appears to be then that by simply both being 6100 models, they are completely different machines, with something as big as 3D making the difference.

On my UN model I was not able to find any option to play the 3D SBS file. In fact not even while playing the file from my external HDD I was able to see any option to play it as proper 3D but only a mirror image of the movie one on top of the other...

What do you make of this?
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post #453 of 870 Old 11-30-2012, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by mckeand13 View Post

Is there a way to delete unwanted channels?
I checked in the menus but couldn't find that function.
During my initial setup, it did a channel scan. Some stations broadcast the same thing on multiple channels and I don't want to flip past those every time.
Thanks.
I would also love to know this. Several local broadcast stations where I live seem to do this, requiring me to flip past two entries of the same channel. I've looked all through the menus, can't find a way to delete unwanted channels. Kind of frusterating. Thanks,

Garrett
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post #454 of 870 Old 11-30-2012, 03:28 PM
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3D is the 6500 model.

You can delete channels from the smart hub (channel section), took me days to find it. Really stupid place to stick it in.
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post #455 of 870 Old 12-02-2012, 12:31 AM
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Have a problem with the 40ES56100 Tuner. my local cable company sucks I have basic cable none are HD channels at all just SD. When I go to TV Antenna mode it doesn't pick up nothing. i thought these have internal tuners? Do I need to purchase and exterior antenna and then a splitter is that how it works..????
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post #456 of 870 Old 12-02-2012, 04:04 AM
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You need a digital antenna and there must be reception at your place. Afterwards you have to do a channel program search.
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post #457 of 870 Old 12-02-2012, 10:57 AM
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Question everyone-- I just got the US60ES6100 a few days ago. Re: all the posted calibration #'s, DVD & Blu are easy enough to do w/optimization discs but the biggest issue is finding a sound balance for your cable/satellite box. I agree the Movie Mode settings and calibrated #'s from it are the most true, but for the sake of television watching it just kills the color and vibrancy that the TV is capable of. However Standard mode still seems to result in oversaturation killing the blacks on darker shows. I guess my 2 questions are, have the calibrations posted all over this forum meant for BD only or standard (cable) picture in general? #2, has anyone experimented w/any sort of hybrid setting that maintains some of the color and vibrancy you get in Standard mode while maintaining a "truer look" most associated w/Movie Mode? Granted I have only had a few days to experiment with this but it seems whether you choose Standard or Movie as your base template, you are giving something up. Side note-- the White Point and Color Customization seem to throw everything else off to the point it does not seem worth toying with. I haven't seen a lot mentioned on these in depth. Nice forum-- I look forward to posting moving forward. P.S. - I had a Mitsubishi DLP before this so a little bit of a learning curve in terms of adjusting to the new (way better) picture.
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post #458 of 870 Old 12-03-2012, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edo Glvez View Post

3D is the 6500 model.
You can delete channels from the smart hub (channel section), took me days to find it. Really stupid place to stick it in.

Cool, thanks! I can't wait to check this out tonight (yeah, seems like a crazy place to put that option)!

Garrett
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post #459 of 870 Old 12-04-2012, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edo Glvez View Post

3D is the 6500 model.
You can delete channels from the smart hub (channel section), took me days to find it. Really stupid place to stick it in.

Thank you!
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post #460 of 870 Old 12-04-2012, 08:16 PM
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Does the ES6100 have any sort of channel guide?

Wen I press "info" it comes up with info about the currently showing program. Is it possible to get info about upcoming shows?
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post #461 of 870 Old 12-05-2012, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by mckeand13 View Post

Does the ES6100 have any sort of channel guide?
Wen I press "info" it comes up with info about the currently showing program. Is it possible to get info about upcoming shows?

I believe when you have the info for the current show displayed, pressing the right arrow button will show what is coming up next. I haven't played with it much to see how far in advance you can view.

Garrett
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post #462 of 870 Old 12-06-2012, 02:56 PM
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Just bought this with a $300 Black Friday rebate at Costco,[1] making the UN40ES6150 a remarkable bargain (< $700). After my gf and i watched the 2001 BD on it out of the box -- "Yuck! WTF?!" -- she found the LCDTVBUYINGGUIDE calibration settings, and it looks marvelous in Movie mode with the 10pt white balance, all the "auto" crap turned off, and other adjustments. I modified the Standard setting to be a bit brighter. Still on the fence about Warm1 vs. Warm2. Can't believe how good RATATOUILLE, CARS, NORTH BY NORTHWEST, GOLDFINGER look on this TV with proper adjustments. eek.gifcool.gif

Looking forward to reading through this entire thread this weekend ... I could never hope to do so with the Panasonic BDT210/310 thread, but here 16 pages is a bit more realistic. I know there'll be some nuggets of wisdom here.... (And thank you, mods, for enabling Tapatalk on the forum.)

[1] Quick plug for Costco: with a 90 day return window, and an added year on the manufacturer warranty, Costco is generally THE place I go to buy expensive electronics. They even replaced a Samsung BD player 19 months after purchase when a Samsung firmware update bricked it. Yes, you read that correctly -- 19 months after purchase. Gave me a refund (store cash card), sold me a new equivalent one, which was cheaper and had a rebate that weekend, so I got a free replacement and $75 net dividend in the bargain. Costco rocks.

Modest "theater": Pana BDT215, Yamaha RXV663, Samsung UN40ES6150. Bose 401 mains, 301 surrounds, Yamaha YDTsomething for Center.
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post #463 of 870 Old 12-07-2012, 11:09 AM
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I have big questions about being able to manually calibrate Movie Mode on this set. I purchased the Disney WOW DVD to calibrate my PS3 and it has proven to be a great resource. On all 3 of my sources (separate DVD player, Cable Box, PS3), I attempted to do dual calibrations on both Standard and Movie mode to see how close they both would come to one another if done properly. I too was using the LCDTVBUYINGGUIDE settings Chrome Job mentioned initially but there was something still "off" about those to me. Using Disney WOW, I calibrated Standard 1st and it is A+ stuff (I will post below for anyone who wants to give it a whirl and compare). When I switched to Movie Mode, I couldn't even get a proper calibration done. The tests between Blacks (Brightness) and Whites (Contrast) would never balance out. One or the other has to be too high or too low on Movie Mode regardless if all artificial enhancers are on or off or no matter what else you try to manipulate (backlight, gamma, etc) to compensate. Basically the whites remain too dark or the blacks remain to bright. On Standard mode, I executed a perfect calibration using the Advanced Settings (for those of you familiar w/the disc). So I went back to the Movie Mode settings from LCDTVBUYINGGUIDE to run that through the calibration. Now granted they are using equipment we don't have (coincidentally, to be utilized if you are using the Expert settings to calibrate on Disney WOW), but even those do not alleviate the offset between Brightness and Contrast according to the disc. When I toggle between my Standard Mode and the Movie Mode from LCDTVBUYINGGUIDE (or even in default which really is not far off from that), Standard offers a bit more splash to the palette while hues, flesh tones, etc all remain perfectly balanced. It was the exact thing that was missing (when I felt something was "off") when using Movie Mode before buying Disney WOW-- I just do not think it is a properly calibrated picture. Perhaps I am wrong and graduating to Expert levels of calibrating is beyond my scope of understanding, but I did work in television for 7 years as well as vocational training on the subject before that so am not completely in the dark on the subject. Truth be told, I would rather have a perfectly calibrated Movie Mode so I could use the XVYCC feature in conjunction w/my PS3 which offers Deep Color Output for sets that have it. That feature is shut down on Standard mode. In any event, if anyone on here wants to try these settings out and provide feedback, that would be great.

On a brief side note, the Expert Pattern feature on this set is great once you have gone through the tutorial of Disney WOW. You can basically self-calibrate your other sources manually. The built-in RGB Only feature provides that awesome Blue Only mode for calibrating your Color & Tint as well. Cable Boxes are normally hard to calibrate since you're flying blind but this feature alleviates all of that. The other thing is, using Disney WOW to set my PS3 first, when I calibrated my other 2 sources manually, the numbers were only off by a small amount for each so it remained pretty uniform across the board.

PS3/Blu-Ray Settings

MODE: Standard
BACKLIGHT: 12 (default)
CONTRAST: 99
BRIGHTNESS: 45
SHARPNESS: 13 (this is very hard to gauge and is completely subjective)
COLOR: 35
TINT (G/R): 50/50

PICTURE SIZE: Screen Fit
POSITION: Default

DYNAMIC CONTRAST: Off
BLACK TONE: Off
FLESH TONE: 0
RGB ONLY MODE: Off
COLOR SPACE: Auto (if you use Native, there is a portion you can never properly calibrate w/Color & Tint)
WHITE BALANCE: 25 All (Default)
10-POINT WHITE BALANCE: Off
GAMMA: +1
EXPERT PATTERN: Off
MOTION LIGHTING: Off

COLOR TONE: Standard
DIGITAL NOISE FILTER: Off
MPEG NOISE FILTER: Off
HDMI BLACK LEVEL: n/a
AUTO MOTION PLUS: Off
LED MOTION PLUS: Off
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post #464 of 870 Old 12-08-2012, 11:24 PM
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I found I had to tone Standard down a bit to get it close to Movie mode.

What is your BD player putting out, RGB, 4:2:2, 4:4:4?

I'm not sure that XVYCC is supported on anything.

// Sent from a mobile. Misspellings happen. //

Modest "theater": Pana BDT215, Yamaha RXV663, Samsung UN40ES6150. Bose 401 mains, 301 surrounds, Yamaha YDTsomething for Center.
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post #465 of 870 Old 12-09-2012, 12:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JPC77 View Post

I have big questions about being able to manually calibrate Movie Mode on this set. I purchased the Disney WOW DVD to calibrate my PS3 and it has proven to be a great resource. On all 3 of my sources (separate DVD player, Cable Box, PS3), I attempted to do dual calibrations on both Standard and Movie mode to see how close they both would come to one another if done properly. I too was using the LCDTVBUYINGGUIDE settings Chrome Job mentioned initially but there was something still "off" about those to me. Using Disney WOW, I calibrated Standard 1st and it is A+ stuff (I will post below for anyone who wants to give it a whirl and compare). When I switched to Movie Mode, I couldn't even get a proper calibration done. The tests between Blacks (Brightness) and Whites (Contrast) would never balance out. One or the other has to be too high or too low on Movie Mode regardless if all artificial enhancers are on or off or no matter what else you try to manipulate (backlight, gamma, etc) to compensate. Basically the whites remain too dark or the blacks remain to bright. On Standard mode, I executed a perfect calibration using the Advanced Settings (for those of you familiar w/the disc). So I went back to the Movie Mode settings from LCDTVBUYINGGUIDE to run that through the calibration. Now granted they are using equipment we don't have (coincidentally, to be utilized if you are using the Expert settings to calibrate on Disney WOW), but even those do not alleviate the offset between Brightness and Contrast according to the disc. When I toggle between my Standard Mode and the Movie Mode from LCDTVBUYINGGUIDE (or even in default which really is not far off from that), Standard offers a bit more splash to the palette while hues, flesh tones, etc all remain perfectly balanced. It was the exact thing that was missing (when I felt something was "off") when using Movie Mode before buying Disney WOW-- I just do not think it is a properly calibrated picture. Perhaps I am wrong and graduating to Expert levels of calibrating is beyond my scope of understanding, but I did work in television for 7 years as well as vocational training on the subject before that so am not completely in the dark on the subject. Truth be told, I would rather have a perfectly calibrated Movie Mode so I could use the XVYCC feature in conjunction w/my PS3 which offers Deep Color Output for sets that have it. That feature is shut down on Standard mode. In any event, if anyone on here wants to try these settings out and provide feedback, that would be great.
On a brief side note, the Expert Pattern feature on this set is great once you have gone through the tutorial of Disney WOW. You can basically self-calibrate your other sources manually. The built-in RGB Only feature provides that awesome Blue Only mode for calibrating your Color & Tint as well. Cable Boxes are normally hard to calibrate since you're flying blind but this feature alleviates all of that. The other thing is, using Disney WOW to set my PS3 first, when I calibrated my other 2 sources manually, the numbers were only off by a small amount for each so it remained pretty uniform across the board.
PS3/Blu-Ray Settings
MODE: Standard
BACKLIGHT: 12 (default)
CONTRAST: 99
BRIGHTNESS: 45
SHARPNESS: 13 (this is very hard to gauge and is completely subjective)
COLOR: 35
TINT (G/R): 50/50
PICTURE SIZE: Screen Fit
POSITION: Default
DYNAMIC CONTRAST: Off
BLACK TONE: Off
FLESH TONE: 0
RGB ONLY MODE: Off
COLOR SPACE: Auto (if you use Native, there is a portion you can never properly calibrate w/Color & Tint)
WHITE BALANCE: 25 All (Default)
10-POINT WHITE BALANCE: Off
GAMMA: +1
EXPERT PATTERN: Off
MOTION LIGHTING: Off
COLOR TONE: Standard
DIGITAL NOISE FILTER: Off
MPEG NOISE FILTER: Off
HDMI BLACK LEVEL: n/a
AUTO MOTION PLUS: Off
LED MOTION PLUS: Off

Excellent! Thanks for sharing! My settings are very, very similar. I had the color at about 35 as well, but eventually boosted it to about 43 or so, in line with the disney WOW calibration recommendation.

I'm not sure why, but for the longest time, I appreciated a slightly less saturated picture, with less color. It felt more 'lifelike' and 'real,' but I have to say that a higher color setting adds a bit of punch.
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post #466 of 870 Old 12-09-2012, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JPC77 View Post

PS3/Blu-Ray Settings
MODE: Standard
BACKLIGHT: 12 (default)
CONTRAST: 99
BRIGHTNESS: 45
SHARPNESS: 13 (this is very hard to gauge and is completely subjective)
COLOR: 35
TINT (G/R): 50/50
PICTURE SIZE: Screen Fit
POSITION: Default
DYNAMIC CONTRAST: Off
BLACK TONE: Off
FLESH TONE: 0
RGB ONLY MODE: Off
COLOR SPACE: Auto (if you use Native, there is a portion you can never properly calibrate w/Color & Tint)
WHITE BALANCE: 25 All (Default)
10-POINT WHITE BALANCE: Off
GAMMA: +1
EXPERT PATTERN: Off
MOTION LIGHTING: Off
COLOR TONE: Standard
DIGITAL NOISE FILTER: Off
MPEG NOISE FILTER: Off
HDMI BLACK LEVEL: n/a
AUTO MOTION PLUS: Off
LED MOTION PLUS: Off

May I ask what your display settings are on the PS3? I tried out your configuration, and it is excelent, but something feels off for me. Or maybe i'm just not used to the TV yet, since I got it a few days ago.
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post #467 of 870 Old 12-09-2012, 08:26 PM
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Hey guys-- I am going to take my time posting a few things here in hopes it saves anyone who has a Samsung 6100 set w/a PS3 a lot of research and trial and error testing. I have had this set for 2 weeks now and no question it is a very good-excellent TV. However with the number of options it offers to the point of overkill, in conjunction w/the myriad of tweaks the PS3 offers as well, calibrating this set has neither been easy nor fun. If you research this set on the internet, basically you get told Movie Mode bottom line regardless of calibration. The fact is, the strength in this particular set is the color palette and detail in the picture. While Movie Mode may allow for a truer, more natural look, it kills the dynamics and vibrancy the TV offers as a sacrifice. Dynamic and Natural modes are worthless for the obvious reasons. But what I have attempted to do through online research, calibrations through others posted and recommended settings (including in this thread), Advanced calibration through Disney WOW, test runs w/the PS3 itself (and it's settings), etc. is to find balance in a "perfect" calibration while completely disowning all that this set has to offer. My previously posted calibration has only changed slightly but I am going to break all this down as I go since a couple of you have asked for a better explanation of how I came to these settings. Let's start w/the PS3 settings:

BD/DVD Video Output Format: Automatic
For the purposes of these calibrations and the next set of PS3 options, I have verified on at least 3-4 occasions there was no change in calibration between RGB & yb/bc/cr modes. With that said, leaving this on Automatic is best since you won't lose anything alternating between gaming and BD watching.

1080p 24 Hz Ouput (HDMI): Automatic
At the end of the day, I left this on Automatic. I verified through a few places our TV does offer 24 Hz output, but the other component is the BDs have to run in that mode as well. While 90%+ do, you may have older titles in your library that don't and you don't want to risk a crap picture by having this on unnecessarily. Likewise, why would you not want the PS3 to utilize this feature if it is available since our TV is capable of it when it is? For the purposes of calibration, it makes zero difference where this is set.

Video Output Settings: 1080p (no explanation needed hopefully)

RGB Full Range (HDMI): Limited
Y Pb/Cb Pr/CR Super White: Off
Deep Color Output (HDMI): Off

Okay-- let's get Deep Color Output out of the way 1st. In my myriad of tests, I noticed absolutely no difference under any settings of this being on or off affecting the final calibrated product. Bottom line is, since my calibration was done through Standard Mode, and this option on the set is only available when using Movie Mode, coupled with the fact it seemed to make zero difference under any circumstances anyway, I shut this off just to remove the wildcard of giving the PS3 something else to convert that it really doesn't need to.

Regarding the other 2, it is imperative RGB Full Range is Limited and Super White is Off. I know most posts will tell you different for the main 2 reasons: 1) RGB Full crushes blacks beyond recognition (true), and 2) Super White off inhibits your ability to properly calibrate Contrast/Whites which is true also. However, it seems the lack of manual control with the both the brightness and contrast settings turned people off to this (how can one calibrate a picture with the blacks & whites out of your ability to adjust after all?). What I learned through use of Disney WOW is that the PS3 is actually a lot smarter than given credit for. For those who have Disney Wow, on both the Brightness & Contrast tests w/Full Range Limited & Super White Off, both blacks and whites are already properly calibrated (blacks ever so slightly more than whites). With these settings, Ideal Black is +0 with everything above and below that range registering properly as it should. The default Brightness setting of 45 is actually already perfectly accurate. Even though adjusting it w/these settings will not affect further clipping (or lack thereof), it does affect the "visible" lines in making them darker or not. If you incrementally adjust the Brightness in either direction, you would notice 45 is where it needs to be with all Stars and +/- ratios being in perfect order. With the Whites/Contrast, the same can be said for these settings as well. I adjusted Contrast down to 96 from 100 for the same reason of following the "visible" line(s) which cuts off after -5 anyway. 95 is 1 metric too short for -5 and 96 lines it up perfectly so anything above begins to wash. The only mild drawback is that while the -1 star is visible, it borders on being Ideal White (0) but not quite. It is worth the trade off since when I calibrated the other way (with Super White turned On), you wind up +1 short the other direction missing the perfect white altogether and also begin to negatively affect your blacks if you try differently (downfall of an LCD). Your second witness to these settings being accurate is pulling up your Test Pattern #2 (color) from your Menu options (Advanced Settings) and you will see the 3 strip lines on the bottom, middle right & left w/your White & Black shades/levels (they have a black line in the middle) where you can see the separation also. One side note: the side angle viewing of these sets is very true. Sitting head on, some of these can look off but if you look @ the set from the left or right, you will see them in perfect calibration.

Sorry for the run-on paragraph but that all covered the same subject. The last thing I want to cover before re-listing my final calibration is Gamma. On the previous settings I had it at +1 but changed it to -1 here. Once everything is calibrated, the only thing this adjustment seems to affect the most is the detail of your whites and blacks (higher helps increase black detail but at the expense of your whites and vice versa). If you can see this on the Test Pattern #2 again w/the 3 strips I mentioned above. Ultimately I knocked it down a couple notches because whites needed slightly more help than the blacks w/these settings, and because on bright, colorful scenes, it really makes a difference, more than it helps when you watch darker ones (I watched Aliens last night and did not feel I was at a loss for black detail or experiencing too much black crush). I dropped the Backlight level down 1 more notch also, so I toyed w/putting Gamma back @ 0, but the XMB menu and games run hotter than BDs so I chose -1 for the overall balance/experience but you can toy with it as you please.

I really invested a ton of personal time on this because really through all my online research, I found no good answers. Yes I want perfect color, balanced blacks, proper flesh tones, etc but I also want this TV to look better than the DLP I gave up to replace it with. Even if you attempt to match my calibration on Movie mode, it is still sucked dry of color, is green-tinted, and does not do justice to games, movies, or this TV. Standard naturally brings out more color and detail. Most calibrations and reviews say to keep the Dynamic Contrast setting off. I did this forever but once I started building my calibration with it on Low instead, I gained an entirely new dimension of color and detail. Granted you lose a touch of proper detail w/blacks being a tad darker than you would prefer, but factoring the entire experience and viewing the overall picture (i.e. watching BDs), I would hold these settings up to any that are out there in Movie Mode and say it is not even a comparison. I hope this all comes to help somebody out who was looking for the same things I was and were unable to find the answers. Feel free to post any feedback or questions and I'll check up on this periodically to help if I can.

CALIBRATED SOURCE: PS3
MODE: Standard
BACKLIGHT: 10
CONTRAST: 96
BRIGHTNESS: 45
SHARPNESS: 15 (subjective)
COLOR: 35 ( I know that is low for some people but anything higher, colors start to wash and you lose actual colors from your pallet)
TINT (G/R): 50/50

PICTURE SIZE: Screen Fit
POSITION: Default

DYNAMIC CONTRAST: Low
BLACK TONE: Off
FLESH TONE: 0
RGB ONLY MODE: Off (but use the Blue setting liberally to cross check my color/tint calibrations w/Test Pattern #2)
COLOR SPACE: Auto
WHITE BALANCE: 25 (Default)
GAMMA: -1
EXPERT PATTERN: Off (use them both to calibrate other sources however-- i.e. cable box, separate DVD player, etc)
MOTION LIGHTING: Off

COLOR TONE: Standard
DIGITAL NOISE FILTER: Off
MPEG NOISE FILTER: Off
HDMI BLACK LEVEL: Low
AUTO MOTION PLUS: Off
LED MOTION PLUS: Off
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post #468 of 870 Old 12-10-2012, 06:27 AM
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JPC77 those setting are perfect! The picture quality is finally how I wanted it to be. I tried out Arkham City and Bioshock 2 and they both look amazing.

Your previous setting and all the others in this thread strained my eyes and gave me headaches when gaming, but this one is perfect. I haven't watched a BD movie on this configuration yet, but I,m sure it will look amazing.

Thank you for posting.
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post #469 of 870 Old 12-10-2012, 06:27 AM
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Sorry about the double post, my phone messed something up. Is there any way to delete my comment?
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post #470 of 870 Old 12-10-2012, 09:47 AM
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Is there any way to record programs to the USB in this TV model?
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post #471 of 870 Old 12-11-2012, 03:43 PM
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Just wondering if anyone knows how often Samsung releases firmware?

The Spotify app is supposed to make it in the next release so trying to get a guesstimate.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
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post #472 of 870 Old 12-12-2012, 05:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JPC77 View Post

Hey guys-- I am going to take my time posting a few things here in hopes it saves anyone who has a Samsung 6100 set w/a PS3 a lot of research and trial and error testing. I have had this set for 2 weeks now and no question it is a very good-excellent TV. However with the number of options it offers to the point of overkill, in conjunction w/the myriad of tweaks the PS3 offers as well, calibrating this set has neither been easy nor fun. If you research this set on the internet, basically you get told Movie Mode bottom line regardless of calibration. The fact is, the strength in this particular set is the color palette and detail in the picture. While Movie Mode may allow for a truer, more natural look, it kills the dynamics and vibrancy the TV offers as a sacrifice. Dynamic and Natural modes are worthless for the obvious reasons. But what I have attempted to do through online research, calibrations through others posted and recommended settings (including in this thread), Advanced calibration through Disney WOW, test runs w/the PS3 itself (and it's settings), etc. is to find balance in a "perfect" calibration while completely disowning all that this set has to offer. My previously posted calibration has only changed slightly but I am going to break all this down as I go since a couple of you have asked for a better explanation of how I came to these settings. Let's start w/the PS3 settings:
BD/DVD Video Output Format: Automatic
For the purposes of these calibrations and the next set of PS3 options, I have verified on at least 3-4 occasions there was no change in calibration between RGB & yb/bc/cr modes. With that said, leaving this on Automatic is best since you won't lose anything alternating between gaming and BD watching.
1080p 24 Hz Ouput (HDMI): Automatic
At the end of the day, I left this on Automatic. I verified through a few places our TV does offer 24 Hz output, but the other component is the BDs have to run in that mode as well. While 90%+ do, you may have older titles in your library that don't and you don't want to risk a crap picture by having this on unnecessarily. Likewise, why would you not want the PS3 to utilize this feature if it is available since our TV is capable of it when it is? For the purposes of calibration, it makes zero difference where this is set.
Video Output Settings: 1080p (no explanation needed hopefully)
RGB Full Range (HDMI): Limited
Y Pb/Cb Pr/CR Super White: Off
Deep Color Output (HDMI): Off
Okay-- let's get Deep Color Output out of the way 1st. In my myriad of tests, I noticed absolutely no difference under any settings of this being on or off affecting the final calibrated product. Bottom line is, since my calibration was done through Standard Mode, and this option on the set is only available when using Movie Mode, coupled with the fact it seemed to make zero difference under any circumstances anyway, I shut this off just to remove the wildcard of giving the PS3 something else to convert that it really doesn't need to.
Regarding the other 2, it is imperative RGB Full Range is Limited and Super White is Off. I know most posts will tell you different for the main 2 reasons: 1) RGB Full crushes blacks beyond recognition (true), and 2) Super White off inhibits your ability to properly calibrate Contrast/Whites which is true also. However, it seems the lack of manual control with the both the brightness and contrast settings turned people off to this (how can one calibrate a picture with the blacks & whites out of your ability to adjust after all?). What I learned through use of Disney WOW is that the PS3 is actually a lot smarter than given credit for. For those who have Disney Wow, on both the Brightness & Contrast tests w/Full Range Limited & Super White Off, both blacks and whites are already properly calibrated (blacks ever so slightly more than whites). With these settings, Ideal Black is +0 with everything above and below that range registering properly as it should. The default Brightness setting of 45 is actually already perfectly accurate. Even though adjusting it w/these settings will not affect further clipping (or lack thereof), it does affect the "visible" lines in making them darker or not. If you incrementally adjust the Brightness in either direction, you would notice 45 is where it needs to be with all Stars and +/- ratios being in perfect order. With the Whites/Contrast, the same can be said for these settings as well. I adjusted Contrast down to 96 from 100 for the same reason of following the "visible" line(s) which cuts off after -5 anyway. 95 is 1 metric too short for -5 and 96 lines it up perfectly so anything above begins to wash. The only mild drawback is that while the -1 star is visible, it borders on being Ideal White (0) but not quite. It is worth the trade off since when I calibrated the other way (with Super White turned On), you wind up +1 short the other direction missing the perfect white altogether and also begin to negatively affect your blacks if you try differently (downfall of an LCD). Your second witness to these settings being accurate is pulling up your Test Pattern #2 (color) from your Menu options (Advanced Settings) and you will see the 3 strip lines on the bottom, middle right & left w/your White & Black shades/levels (they have a black line in the middle) where you can see the separation also. One side note: the side angle viewing of these sets is very true. Sitting head on, some of these can look off but if you look @ the set from the left or right, you will see them in perfect calibration.
Sorry for the run-on paragraph but that all covered the same subject. The last thing I want to cover before re-listing my final calibration is Gamma. On the previous settings I had it at +1 but changed it to -1 here. Once everything is calibrated, the only thing this adjustment seems to affect the most is the detail of your whites and blacks (higher helps increase black detail but at the expense of your whites and vice versa). If you can see this on the Test Pattern #2 again w/the 3 strips I mentioned above. Ultimately I knocked it down a couple notches because whites needed slightly more help than the blacks w/these settings, and because on bright, colorful scenes, it really makes a difference, more than it helps when you watch darker ones (I watched Aliens last night and did not feel I was at a loss for black detail or experiencing too much black crush). I dropped the Backlight level down 1 more notch also, so I toyed w/putting Gamma back @ 0, but the XMB menu and games run hotter than BDs so I chose -1 for the overall balance/experience but you can toy with it as you please.
I really invested a ton of personal time on this because really through all my online research, I found no good answers. Yes I want perfect color, balanced blacks, proper flesh tones, etc but I also want this TV to look better than the DLP I gave up to replace it with. Even if you attempt to match my calibration on Movie mode, it is still sucked dry of color, is green-tinted, and does not do justice to games, movies, or this TV. Standard naturally brings out more color and detail. Most calibrations and reviews say to keep the Dynamic Contrast setting off. I did this forever but once I started building my calibration with it on Low instead, I gained an entirely new dimension of color and detail. Granted you lose a touch of proper detail w/blacks being a tad darker than you would prefer, but factoring the entire experience and viewing the overall picture (i.e. watching BDs), I would hold these settings up to any that are out there in Movie Mode and say it is not even a comparison. I hope this all comes to help somebody out who was looking for the same things I was and were unable to find the answers. Feel free to post any feedback or questions and I'll check up on this periodically to help if I can.
CALIBRATED SOURCE: PS3
MODE: Standard
BACKLIGHT: 10
CONTRAST: 96
BRIGHTNESS: 45
SHARPNESS: 15 (subjective)
COLOR: 35 ( I know that is low for some people but anything higher, colors start to wash and you lose actual colors from your pallet)
TINT (G/R): 50/50
PICTURE SIZE: Screen Fit
POSITION: Default
DYNAMIC CONTRAST: Low
BLACK TONE: Off
FLESH TONE: 0
RGB ONLY MODE: Off (but use the Blue setting liberally to cross check my color/tint calibrations w/Test Pattern #2)
COLOR SPACE: Auto
WHITE BALANCE: 25 (Default)
GAMMA: -1
EXPERT PATTERN: Off (use them both to calibrate other sources however-- i.e. cable box, separate DVD player, etc)
MOTION LIGHTING: Off
COLOR TONE: Standard
DIGITAL NOISE FILTER: Off
MPEG NOISE FILTER: Off
HDMI BLACK LEVEL: Low
AUTO MOTION PLUS: Off
LED MOTION PLUS: Off

Great post, with lots of great information. Thanks.

Is the backlight 10/10 or 10/20? I set my backlight at 50% usually; I don't watch much tv during the day and when I do on weekends, 50% is quite adequate.
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post #473 of 870 Old 12-12-2012, 06:19 AM
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Backlight on our set is 20 max, so the 10 setting is half that exactly.
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post #474 of 870 Old 12-12-2012, 08:46 AM
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Thanks jpc77 for the post!! I just got the 55es6100 yesterday, got the Disney wow disc but haven't calibrated anything yet, I watched the tv for a couple hours last night and one major concern I saw was image judders. I hope after calibrating it goes away, it's not so much of a panning camera, but more like fast hand actions or head movements when close up. Its not just a little blurry but it really studders a lot. Anybody else notice significant image studders in certain situations?
(sorry for double post just learning to use this forum with my phone)
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post #475 of 870 Old 12-12-2012, 09:06 AM
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Does anyone know if there is a way to turn off the darkening of the screen on dark scenes?
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post #476 of 870 Old 12-12-2012, 10:37 AM
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Sloppy = you are referring to the Auto Motion Plus feature I believe (the one w/the Blur vs Judder settings)....Judder is going to be in line with what you are speaking of for your Blu Ray or PS3 when watching movies (the "soap opera" effect so many refer to it as)....either turn that to 0 or shut the feature off....if this is happening while you're watching TV, it is the Blur setting and needs to be increased to a higher # from 0 until the movement you are talking about (I noticed it on Family Guy last week and had to turn mine up) to eliminate it in that sense.

Jimmie = I think it is the Auto Motion Lighting setting that is causing your issue (I am going off memory @ the moment)....shut it off and it should eliminate your problem....also ensure the Eco Solution mode is set to Off also. Both of those cause screen darkness when there is certain lighting or movement present in whatever you are watching.
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post #477 of 870 Old 12-12-2012, 01:33 PM
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Okay, so here is a question that I haven't seen addressed in the previous pages. I tend to watch a lot of subtitled content (anime, foreign language films, etc etc) and when they do play (whether off my usb hard drive, or streaming) it will only play one of the english tracks. Usually there is 2, where one will be specifically for translating signs or markers, or what have you, and the other what the characters say. Is there a way to adjust this? I'm only seeing subtitles on or off on the TV itself, so I figure it'll likely be in the files I'm trying to play.

My second question I did a little research on and couldn't find any answer either. I have another samsung TV in the same room and I'm wondering if there is a way to make it so the remote only controls one of them? It's semi handy sometimes to have it be able to turn off both, but typically it ends up just being more of a hindrance than a help.

Third question, sort of pertaining to the first in a way. During animated things specifically I'll notice a lot of...shuddering in certain places. Is this the judder people are talking about? I've tried to turn on the auto motion to custom and just turn off the blur adjustment and keep the judder at about a 4 or 5, and it seems to help. But it also makes some things almost too smooth. It's a bit hard to explain.

In any case, any information on any of these three issues would be much appreciated. Thanks smile.gif
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post #478 of 870 Old 12-12-2012, 02:07 PM
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ssandulak -- your first 2 q's are out of my wheelhouse but re: the 3rd, as I mentioned in the prev post to yours, the blur or judder (both separate settings/functions) depend on the source you are watching. If you do a lot of streaming or USB based content, I am not sure which will be in effect but it is my experience and also if I am understanding what I have read on the subject correctly, the judder is blu content whereas the blur is more tv/cable sources. I believe the source material (i.e. animation as you mentioned vs live action) may play a part in it also. If you PM me, I have an article saved that I found that explains the differences between blur and judder effects and how to curb them very well. It may get to the bottom of your question clearer than I can. Mainly it is a matter of experimenting as to both eliminate the problem you are having but not causing the "soap opera" look as a side effect.
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post #479 of 870 Old 12-12-2012, 06:12 PM
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Don't see any auto motion lighting setting can anyone tell me where it is? Thanks everyone
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post #480 of 870 Old 12-12-2012, 06:38 PM
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Motion Lighting setting is under Picture, Advanced settings.
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