Official Samsung UNXXES6100 Thread - Page 28 - AVS Forum
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post #811 of 870 Old 11-11-2013, 07:55 AM
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Well the site has same firmware as mine... Ill see what they say and maybe loosen few screwes smile.gif
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post #812 of 870 Old 11-11-2013, 02:47 PM
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Called them back, they again said I should go to new firmware but this time to 1037 which my TV doesnt see eather. So will have to spend an evening troubleshooting. I`m sure flashlighting wont get fixed but I want to see what they say, before I take the TV down and loosen the screwes.
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post #813 of 870 Old 11-14-2013, 07:34 PM
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What are everyone AMP settings?

I have mine set to 8 on Blur Reduction and 7 on Judder Reduction. I found these settings to be at the highest before seeing or noticing the imperfections they create.
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post #814 of 870 Old 11-14-2013, 08:27 PM
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I just leave it on "Standard" for TV and youtube, disabled for netflix and BD and of course I run on game mode for games so disabled too.

BTW 1037 is up on the site, change list didn't change so meh...
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post #815 of 870 Old 11-16-2013, 07:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yozh View Post

Called them back, they again said I should go to new firmware but this time to 1037 which my TV doesnt see eather. So will have to spend an evening troubleshooting. I`m sure flashlighting wont get fixed but I want to see what they say, before I take the TV down and loosen the screwes.


So now up to date on firmware of course nothing changed. I tried to loosen some screwes and that did not help. At this point I`m not sure what I should be doing...
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post #816 of 870 Old 11-16-2013, 12:00 PM
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Lowering the backlight level might help if you can live with it.
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post #817 of 870 Old 11-16-2013, 12:06 PM
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I got it on 8 now. Go lower ?
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post #818 of 870 Old 11-16-2013, 06:09 PM
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I think that if the flashlighting is too distracting at 8 the only thing to do is try to get it fixed. frown.gif
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post #819 of 870 Old 11-17-2013, 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Edo Glvez View Post

I think that if the flashlighting is too distracting at 8 the only thing to do is try to get it fixed. frown.gif

Well only during dark scenes.
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post #820 of 870 Old 11-19-2013, 12:49 PM
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Guys, my current FW is 1014. When I try to update online it says I have current FW. I downloaded the 1037 zip file from Samsung website but it won't unzip. I've tried Winrar and Winzip and get an error from both????

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post #821 of 870 Old 11-19-2013, 04:33 PM
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Might be corrupted or incomplete, try DL again.
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post #822 of 870 Old 11-19-2013, 04:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edo Glvez View Post

Might be corrupted or incomplete, try DL again.

I've been trying for 4-5 hours. I think the Samsung servers are down or messed up. I've tried unzipping on two different computers and same error. Finally contacted Samsung chat and he tried and got same thing. It would also explain why when connecting online from TV wireless, it says no new update when my current FW is 1014. Guess I'll just hafta wait and try again later.

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post #823 of 870 Old 11-19-2013, 04:42 PM
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Well it seemed odd that it was about 4MB size...
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post #824 of 870 Old 11-19-2013, 06:54 PM
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hey guys. anyone notice when streaming .mp4 files the videos look really bad and stretched out?
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post #825 of 870 Old 11-19-2013, 09:06 PM
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not mine, maybe your DLNA server is poorly configured and/or your network speed is causing it to transcode it in low bandwidth mode?

try the latest ps3 media server
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post #826 of 870 Old 11-20-2013, 04:09 AM
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I tried PS3 media server, mezzmo and plex, they all look the same. MKV files and .avi files look great, just .mp4 is awful, really stretched out. Any ideas?
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post #827 of 870 Old 11-20-2013, 04:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmartell View Post

I tried PS3 media server, mezzmo and plex, they all look the same. MKV files and .avi files look great, just .mp4 is awful, really stretched out. Any ideas?

oh, and forgot to mention, if I put an .mp4, .mkv, and .avi file on a thumbdrive, the .mp4 still has problems
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post #828 of 870 Old 11-20-2013, 05:41 AM
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Sounds like the issue is with the mp4 itself, the stretching might have to do with non square pixels being used, I've seen some files play ok on PC then get squished on players that don't know about pixel ratio.
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post #829 of 870 Old 11-20-2013, 06:16 AM
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I recently bought the Samsung UE46ES6100 and I've been experiencing a rather annoying problem when watching videos on my PS3, every 5 to 10 minutes the screen would flicker for a portion of a second and then I'd lose all sound for the next 2-3 seconds after that. It would also happen when the PS3 was idle.

lh8uQf
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post #830 of 870 Old 11-20-2013, 07:43 AM
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yeah, mp4s are quite a same size, I think 700 by 400 or something. Thing is, on my Samsung plasma they were showing fine, but on the led its just a mess, thought someone might have some things I could try
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post #831 of 870 Old 12-02-2013, 05:01 AM
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Originally Posted by JPC77 View Post

Hey guys-- I am going to take my time posting a few things here in hopes it saves anyone who has a Samsung 6100 set w/a PS3 a lot of research and trial and error testing. I have had this set for 2 weeks now and no question it is a very good-excellent TV. However with the number of options it offers to the point of overkill, in conjunction w/the myriad of tweaks the PS3 offers as well, calibrating this set has neither been easy nor fun. If you research this set on the internet, basically you get told Movie Mode bottom line regardless of calibration. The fact is, the strength in this particular set is the color palette and detail in the picture. While Movie Mode may allow for a truer, more natural look, it kills the dynamics and vibrancy the TV offers as a sacrifice. Dynamic and Natural modes are worthless for the obvious reasons. But what I have attempted to do through online research, calibrations through others posted and recommended settings (including in this thread), Advanced calibration through Disney WOW, test runs w/the PS3 itself (and it's settings), etc. is to find balance in a "perfect" calibration while completely disowning all that this set has to offer. My previously posted calibration has only changed slightly but I am going to break all this down as I go since a couple of you have asked for a better explanation of how I came to these settings. Let's start w/the PS3 settings:

BD/DVD Video Output Format: Automatic
For the purposes of these calibrations and the next set of PS3 options, I have verified on at least 3-4 occasions there was no change in calibration between RGB & yb/bc/cr modes. With that said, leaving this on Automatic is best since you won't lose anything alternating between gaming and BD watching.

1080p 24 Hz Ouput (HDMI): Automatic
At the end of the day, I left this on Automatic. I verified through a few places our TV does offer 24 Hz output, but the other component is the BDs have to run in that mode as well. While 90%+ do, you may have older titles in your library that don't and you don't want to risk a crap picture by having this on unnecessarily. Likewise, why would you not want the PS3 to utilize this feature if it is available since our TV is capable of it when it is? For the purposes of calibration, it makes zero difference where this is set.

Video Output Settings: 1080p (no explanation needed hopefully)

RGB Full Range (HDMI): Limited
Y Pb/Cb Pr/CR Super White: Off
Deep Color Output (HDMI): Off

Okay-- let's get Deep Color Output out of the way 1st. In my myriad of tests, I noticed absolutely no difference under any settings of this being on or off affecting the final calibrated product. Bottom line is, since my calibration was done through Standard Mode, and this option on the set is only available when using Movie Mode, coupled with the fact it seemed to make zero difference under any circumstances anyway, I shut this off just to remove the wildcard of giving the PS3 something else to convert that it really doesn't need to.

Regarding the other 2, it is imperative RGB Full Range is Limited and Super White is Off. I know most posts will tell you different for the main 2 reasons: 1) RGB Full crushes blacks beyond recognition (true), and 2) Super White off inhibits your ability to properly calibrate Contrast/Whites which is true also. However, it seems the lack of manual control with the both the brightness and contrast settings turned people off to this (how can one calibrate a picture with the blacks & whites out of your ability to adjust after all?). What I learned through use of Disney WOW is that the PS3 is actually a lot smarter than given credit for. For those who have Disney Wow, on both the Brightness & Contrast tests w/Full Range Limited & Super White Off, both blacks and whites are already properly calibrated (blacks ever so slightly more than whites). With these settings, Ideal Black is +0 with everything above and below that range registering properly as it should. The default Brightness setting of 45 is actually already perfectly accurate. Even though adjusting it w/these settings will not affect further clipping (or lack thereof), it does affect the "visible" lines in making them darker or not. If you incrementally adjust the Brightness in either direction, you would notice 45 is where it needs to be with all Stars and +/- ratios being in perfect order. With the Whites/Contrast, the same can be said for these settings as well. I adjusted Contrast down to 96 from 100 for the same reason of following the "visible" line(s) which cuts off after -5 anyway. 95 is 1 metric too short for -5 and 96 lines it up perfectly so anything above begins to wash. The only mild drawback is that while the -1 star is visible, it borders on being Ideal White (0) but not quite. It is worth the trade off since when I calibrated the other way (with Super White turned On), you wind up +1 short the other direction missing the perfect white altogether and also begin to negatively affect your blacks if you try differently (downfall of an LCD). Your second witness to these settings being accurate is pulling up your Test Pattern #2 (color) from your Menu options (Advanced Settings) and you will see the 3 strip lines on the bottom, middle right & left w/your White & Black shades/levels (they have a black line in the middle) where you can see the separation also. One side note: the side angle viewing of these sets is very true. Sitting head on, some of these can look off but if you look @ the set from the left or right, you will see them in perfect calibration.

Sorry for the run-on paragraph but that all covered the same subject. The last thing I want to cover before re-listing my final calibration is Gamma. On the previous settings I had it at +1 but changed it to -1 here. Once everything is calibrated, the only thing this adjustment seems to affect the most is the detail of your whites and blacks (higher helps increase black detail but at the expense of your whites and vice versa). If you can see this on the Test Pattern #2 again w/the 3 strips I mentioned above. Ultimately I knocked it down a couple notches because whites needed slightly more help than the blacks w/these settings, and because on bright, colorful scenes, it really makes a difference, more than it helps when you watch darker ones (I watched Aliens last night and did not feel I was at a loss for black detail or experiencing too much black crush). I dropped the Backlight level down 1 more notch also, so I toyed w/putting Gamma back @ 0, but the XMB menu and games run hotter than BDs so I chose -1 for the overall balance/experience but you can toy with it as you please.

I really invested a ton of personal time on this because really through all my online research, I found no good answers. Yes I want perfect color, balanced blacks, proper flesh tones, etc but I also want this TV to look better than the DLP I gave up to replace it with. Even if you attempt to match my calibration on Movie mode, it is still sucked dry of color, is green-tinted, and does not do justice to games, movies, or this TV. Standard naturally brings out more color and detail. Most calibrations and reviews say to keep the Dynamic Contrast setting off. I did this forever but once I started building my calibration with it on Low instead, I gained an entirely new dimension of color and detail. Granted you lose a touch of proper detail w/blacks being a tad darker than you would prefer, but factoring the entire experience and viewing the overall picture (i.e. watching BDs), I would hold these settings up to any that are out there in Movie Mode and say it is not even a comparison. I hope this all comes to help somebody out who was looking for the same things I was and were unable to find the answers. Feel free to post any feedback or questions and I'll check up on this periodically to help if I can.

CALIBRATED SOURCE: PS3
MODE: Standard
BACKLIGHT: 10
CONTRAST: 96
BRIGHTNESS: 45
SHARPNESS: 15 (subjective)
COLOR: 35 ( I know that is low for some people but anything higher, colors start to wash and you lose actual colors from your pallet)
TINT (G/R): 50/50

PICTURE SIZE: Screen Fit
POSITION: Default

DYNAMIC CONTRAST: Low
BLACK TONE: Off
FLESH TONE: 0
RGB ONLY MODE: Off (but use the Blue setting liberally to cross check my color/tint calibrations w/Test Pattern #2)
COLOR SPACE: Auto
WHITE BALANCE: 25 (Default)
GAMMA: -1
EXPERT PATTERN: Off (use them both to calibrate other sources however-- i.e. cable box, separate DVD player, etc)
MOTION LIGHTING: Off

COLOR TONE: Standard
DIGITAL NOISE FILTER: Off
MPEG NOISE FILTER: Off
HDMI BLACK LEVEL: Low
AUTO MOTION PLUS: Off
LED MOTION PLUS: Off


Thanks so much for taking the time -- I'm trying to set up my own system with the PS3 being the source for both games and movies (through Netflix) and had a feeling the review sites settings are best for dedicated Bluray-players rather than the PS3.

 

One question -- since the prefered picture setting is "normal", does that mean you can keep "game mode" on at all time, since game mode forces standard settings anyway? It would certainly be a lot easier to not have to turn game mode on and off every time I go from a game to a movie on my PS3.

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post #832 of 870 Old 12-02-2013, 07:43 AM
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It has been a long time since I posted that and I do not remember what Normal mode you are referring to (TV or PS3). To answer your question, I do not and never have switched between Game mode and any other mode. I would have to check but I think my Game Mode has always been off. I treat games the same as BD since they are all in that format anyway. On a side note, I have rechecked these calibrations a couple of times with firmware updates just to make sure it is not readjusting the picture at all and they seem to have remained stable.
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post #833 of 870 Old 12-03-2013, 08:53 PM
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Has anyone compared the screen performance on the UN60Es6100 vs UN60F6300 (newer model)? Was there a noticeable difference?
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post #834 of 870 Old 12-04-2013, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JPC77 View Post

It has been a long time since I posted that and I do not remember what Normal mode you are referring to (TV or PS3). To answer your question, I do not and never have switched between Game mode and any other mode. I would have to check but I think my Game Mode has always been off. I treat games the same as BD since they are all in that format anyway. On a side note, I have rechecked these calibrations a couple of times with firmware updates just to make sure it is not readjusting the picture at all and they seem to have remained stable.

Sorry I was referring to Standard mode on the TV. I'm confused about the different color spaces however... Would I have to use different calibration settings when streaming movies from Netflix on my PS3 as opposed to watching bluray or playing games?

All the calibration tips everywhere seems to be for bluray or TV, but if I'm not mistaken Netflix uses RGB color space on the PS3. Does that change anything?
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post #835 of 870 Old 12-04-2013, 02:51 PM
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To answer your question, no I do not and have not changed from anything but Standard. If you do, the calibration is automatically thrown out the window. You have to calibrate to your source in any event. If you are watching Netflix off of your PS3 or TV, it's calibration should be accurate based on the source your watching it on. I understand your point to a degree having worked in television for many years but let me pose it to you like this. If you turn on a local television show that the control operator failed to properly set levels on before it went to air-- which is incorrect? The show you are watching or your TV? In other words you can't recalibrate based on every channel, show, sub-source you watch or else you will constantly be compromising the calibrations you know to be accurate. Truth be told, 95%+ of the time, everything is going to look as it should including Netflix (I don't stream Netflix anymore but I used to and never noticed such a severe change in my calibrations when doing so). The bottom line is, you cannot calibrate just Netflix because they aren't going to provide you a platform (i.e. color bars) to do so. It would all be guess work anyway. So my recommendation would be to leave as is.
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post #836 of 870 Old 12-06-2013, 02:29 AM
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Thanks man. I'm using your settings now, except I'm experimenting with Warm 1 instead of Standard, and the white balance tweaks from lcdtvbuyingguide.com.

 

Movie mode with Warm 2, which a lot of people run, is out of the question for me now. At first I was unsure if the movies I watched actually used that sort of filter, but after watching Pulp Fiction yesterday, which has a pretty natural look, I realised it is NOT supposed to look thatt yellow.

 

It may be accurate for Bluray, but for PS3 streaming it doesn't work at all.

 

I'm also experimenting with having "game mode" always on -- anyone else doing that? I've compared and it doesn't seem to degrade picture quality at all, and it's nice not having to switch between games and movies.

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post #837 of 870 Old 12-19-2013, 06:30 AM
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Can someone please tell me where the IR sensor is on this tv. thank
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post #838 of 870 Old 12-19-2013, 07:28 AM
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I have them both. 6300 and 6100. They look identical to me, the only differences I have noticed are the much faster processing in the Smart Hub of the 6300s
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post #839 of 870 Old 01-02-2014, 07:48 AM
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I've had this TV for 13-14 months now, and still love it. But recently I've been using iOS and Android apps on my devices to control it, as well as streaming on a Chromecast as well as built-in SmartHub apps.

I've noticed that the TV does not "sleep" on the network so I can wake it up, but it does wake when the Panasonic BDT210 HDMI-CEC BD player (running through a Yamaha RXV receiver) turns on. Alas, I can only turn on the BD player remotely with an iOS app (Panasonic doesn't seem interested in maintaining compatibility with Android apps).

Has anyone determined a way to remote turn on the TV other than setting up a generic "Auto ON" time?

Sidebar: I find the "auto turn-off = 4 hours" handy, but also annoying when I'm controlling media entirely through a Chromecast and tethered apps. Haven't decided, but considering just having the TV turn off at 2 am every night. Can't be good for TV to be on 18 hours a day on the weekend, though. ,:|

Modest "theater": Samsung UN40ES6150, Panasonic BDT215, Yamaha RXV775. Bose 401 mains, 301 Series III surrounds, Yamaha NS-C444 center.
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post #840 of 870 Old 01-12-2014, 04:27 AM
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I just picked up a "Last One" 50 es6100 model at Sears yesterday for under $400. I have no idea where to put it,but I couldn't pass up the price.
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