The *OFFICIAL* 2012 Samsung EH4000/EH5000/EH5300 Owner's Thread... - Page 61 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1801 of 2438 Old 12-17-2013, 10:17 AM
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With the 40EH5300 (UD03, supposed Samsung panel), should I expect a certain amount of bleeding/clouding? I've gotten two and they've both had some, only on complete black with settings close to 20 backlight, 95 contrast, 50-55 backlight. I know those are brighter settings than most use, but even dimmer it's been noticeable. Dark edges on one side, and 1-2 small white patches towards the bottom middle. Is this acceptable, or should it be close to perfect?

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post #1802 of 2438 Old 12-17-2013, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woobieizer View Post

My set is on stand.

Red markup display the mount points on a UN46EH5300. The cyan arrows show "Bass reflex system (also known as a ported, vented box or reflex port)" direction. If one were to take the back panel off, hold it in one hand waist high and flap it, you'd understand why this occurs.

I took the wall mounts off and remounted them with an under-layer of high temp wiring tape. On each of the 4 wall mounts I attached a 1/4 felt pad. A week later hearing the panel resonate, I added two inch thick by 3 inch long memory foam over each speaker (cyan arrow). No more crazy, buzzing, hooptie trunk sounds.

Do you know if this is happening to everyone, or only certain sets? Mine is mounted on a stand, for what it's worth.
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post #1803 of 2438 Old 12-17-2013, 02:54 PM
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ouch, I think I blew it here:

 

I had my TV from the store (un32eh5000fxza) on firmware 1018 since I've got it. I had the most recent June '12 update, version 1012, on USB. I ACCIDENTALLY hit OK instead of return, and now I'm on fw1012 and noticing a quality hit on my PS4 picture :(

 

Is there ANYTHING I can do? Samsung help has told me there's now way for me to obtain 1018 and I'm now stuck w the old firmware :(

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post #1804 of 2438 Old 12-17-2013, 07:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woobieizer View Post

^^^ This is happening on the UN46EH5300 as well..
What I have determined it is the speaker ports doing there best at the 75Hz ~ 200Hz frequency making the 400 x 400 wall mounts and the back panel resonates. You'll have to open her up and use some sound deadening material. Video, pics review on Amazon displays the same issue.
>>On Stand...

Could you possibly link me to some of these reviews or videos? I found a few reviews on the eh5000, but no videos. I'm guessing there are some for the 5300 or other models.
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post #1805 of 2438 Old 12-17-2013, 09:50 PM
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post #1806 of 2438 Old 12-17-2013, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ls1dreams View Post

Do you know if this is happening to everyone, or only certain sets? Mine is mounted on a stand, for what it's worth.

I know I speak for me, and find it odd that you and I are the only ones that noticed this very obnoxious feature. eek.gif

I worked on mine and did my due diligence by posting what I had found just as you did yours by making the MP3. My model is different than yours and my Version is UF03. Our similarity AFAIK are: Black Friday, and back panel resonation, and panel size.

Being as light as this HDTV is and as attenuated as the back panel is, and as minimalistic as the wall mount brackets are designed and attached to the inner support panel, it's a wonder to me how others don't have or recognize this issue we discuss.






Good luck w/ that request. I'm good with my home made fix.
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post #1807 of 2438 Old 12-18-2013, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woobieizer View Post

I know I speak for me, and find it odd that you and I are the only ones that noticed this very obnoxious feature. eek.gif

I worked on mine and did my due diligence by posting what I had found just as you did yours by making the MP3. My model is different than yours and my Version is UF01. Our similarity AFAIK are: Black Friday, and back panel resonation, and panel size.

Being as light as this HDTV is and as attenuated as the back panel is, and as minimalistic as the wall mount brackets are designed and attached to the inner support panel, it's a wonder to me how others don't have or recognize this issue we discuss.

I just contacted Samsung with a support request - I'll let you know what I hear back. I actually have the UD03 model, bought from Tiger Direct on black friday, mounted on a stand. 46" version.
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post #1808 of 2438 Old 12-18-2013, 11:26 PM
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Just bought an EH5300 at Walmart. Very happy with it so far. I have a question regarding the AA59-00580A Remote that comes with it. On page 17 of the owners manual it says to refer to the e-Manual for an explanation of the functions of the bottom two rows of buttons. I spent 20 minutes going through the e-Manual and couldn't find anything regarding the what these buttons do. I finally figured out how they work when playing videos off a USB thumb drive. I still can't figure out what the "record" button is used for. Any help would be appreciated.

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post #1809 of 2438 Old 12-19-2013, 12:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by friendlyskys View Post

Just bought an EH5300 at Walmart. Very happy with it so far. I have a question regarding the AA59-00580A Remote that comes with it. On page 17 of the owners manual it says to refer to the e-Manual for an explanation of the functions of the bottom two rows of buttons. I spent 20 minutes going through the e-Manual and couldn't find anything regarding the what these buttons do. I finally figured out how they work when playing videos off a USB thumb drive. I still can't figure out what the "record" button is used for. Any help would be appreciated.



Record button is for "PVR"
Not available for US models, available for some European models. Remote shares form factor with both.
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post #1810 of 2438 Old 12-21-2013, 04:00 AM
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Quote: Originally Posted by kkl10

What you want is something like this. This is just an example for ilustration purposes, I'm not recommending this product as I have no experience with it.
Note that the actual magnification power of these cheap microscopes/loupes is probably much lower than advertised but it should be enough.
The quality of the lens is also not very consistent, so it's a matter of luck whether you get a usefull device or not.


kkl10, I think I got it!!!
What I did was google "Home made microscope" and came up with the Instructable
Swapped laser from pen light w/ laser from old DVD laser pickup.


Code:
EXIF* Info Filename - IMG_20131221_062513.jpg Make - SAMSUNG Model - SPH-M820 XResolution - 72 YResolution - 72 ResolutionUnit - Inch Software - EH03u' E FԤ@ DateTime - 2013-12-21 11:25:11 YCbCrPositioning - Centered ExifOffset - 236 FNumber - 2.80 ExposureProgram - Aperture priority ExifVersion - DateTimeOriginal - 2013-12-21 11:25:11 DateTimeDigitized - 2013-12-21 11:25:11 ComponentsConfiguration - YCbCr Flash - Not fired FocalLength - 2.73 mm FlashPixVersion - 0100 ColorSpace - sRGB ExifImageWidth - 1200 ExifImageHeight - 1600 InteroperabilityOffset - 554 White Balance - Auto SceneCaptureType - Night scene Thumbnail: - Compression - 6 (JPG) XResolution - 512 YResolution - 384 ResolutionUnit - Inch JpegIFOffset - 912 JpegIFByteCount - 14059





You too can do this folks.. what you see on my camera are felt pads cause I like to set it on counter w/o scratching case.. this is a cheapo WalMart Straight Talk phone that is not in service hence the bad time stamp on EXIF.

Follow the Instructible and if you don't have a old laser pen light, do what I did and rip apart an old DVD RW and yank the lens out..
The lens is flat on one side and fish-eyed on the other.. find that bobby pin and expand it while you have your lens on a flat surface.
Release the tension while having spare finger hold the lens firmly against flat surface to avoid shooting/springing the lens to the Twilight Zone.

Place that flat side of lens directly on your camera lens and tape.

Config your camera to Zoom (1.4~2x): Metering (Matrix): AW (Auto): Brightness (mid point of your scale): Night Mode (ON): Picture Size (Max): Picture Quality (Super Fine): Color Effect (None)
Turn your GPS off, we're not the NSA!

Hard part:
Hold that camera up to your BRIGHTEST WHITE of (I took mine on the Smart Hub) telly and pull back till your fingertips are the buffer, you'll find your sweet spot so have that free index finger handy to snap your pics. It may test your resolve but it is DOABLE.

Now we can append pics to your wiki nxsfan!
Or
http://nxsfan.co.uk/mediawiki/index.php/Samsung_Panels

Last edited by Woobieizer; 06-17-2016 at 01:32 PM.
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post #1811 of 2438 Old 12-21-2013, 08:57 AM
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Cool, you might want to post this in the Samsung Panel Version thread as well, it would be quite usefull there.
It's clearly PSA but the subpixel structure of your panel seems slightly different than the other know picture because there are no diagonal lines in the rectangular subpixels in your picture... can you confirm? It suggests Samsung has been modifying/improving their panel tech and maybe it would explain all the new panel codes seen recently.
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post #1812 of 2438 Old 12-21-2013, 10:34 AM
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I have a problem with my TV. I went into Service Menu to look around, but I didn't really change anything. When I quit it and went back to TV signal, there was no more picutre, but just black field that over a course of several seconds lightens into a tiny grid of dark-grey lines on black background, and is not uniform – it is brighter in the middle-left than on the edges.

 

So I went back to service menu and did Factory Reset. I lost all channels, but things went back to normal. At least that's what I thought. But now the same think happens every time I change picture mode to Movie. Others modes work fine but each time I select Movie by mistake, I have to try blindly select something else .

 

Does anyone know what's wrong and how to fix it? Do I need to contact Samsung for warranty check? I imagine the turnaround time would be PITA over the Xmas and NewYear's period.

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post #1813 of 2438 Old 12-21-2013, 11:21 AM
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Rule 1. Never go into the SM for anything regardless of what you read or hear. As you have seen, it is way too easy to mess things up even if you don't "think" you've made any changes. SM settings quite often are model specific and are set at the factory for each individual tv. What I would do is call support and tell them what your tv is doing. DO NOT tell them that you went into the SM. Play dumb. If you're under warranty they may be able to fix it. Venturing into the SM voids your warranty in a lot of cases so just don't mention it.
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post #1814 of 2438 Old 12-21-2013, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kkl10 View Post

Cool, you might want to post this in the Samsung Panel Version thread as well, it would be quite usefull there.
It's clearly PSA but the subpixel structure of your panel seems slightly different than the other know picture because there are no diagonal lines in the rectangular subpixels in your picture... can you confirm? It suggests Samsung has been modifying/improving their panel tech and maybe it would explain all the new panel codes seen recently.

I can confirm that my camera rig has a hard time capturing the RED, and even tho I see through the capture screen waves/fluctuation I'm certain that the rectangular subpixels have not pyramided diagonally. I attempted rather elaborate testing going through the picture menu turning off Backlight/Contrast and even Brightness to just end up back w/ the 8 bit structure seen above.
I'm not qualified to say either or as to what matrix this is, yet only that I hope it provides me as many years as my Westy has. All I wished to do is capture a more detailed picture and share how easy it is to do with stuff laying about. This at the very least rules things out.

Having re-read the writings of hristoslav2 in the iterations of panels concerning First Editions/Second Editions and looking at Panelook for the model (replacement) for this UF03 it would seem that what would be replaced if this panel failed would be a SVA (if indeed it is not already a SVA, I know not). Looking further down the Hot Cells at Panelook the LSC460HN05-W, I see it is +A Grade and marked as SPVA.
Perhaps going by this is the litmus test as this sticker is readily accessible from removing the 11 screws that hold the back panel, and it matches up with the SamsungParts listing.



DUCT I am presuming means OEM First Editions Discontinued; and the Operational Panels are the Second Edition replacement. ( I'd like some confirmation on that smile.gif )
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post #1815 of 2438 Old 12-21-2013, 10:28 PM
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Please help me guys. I am determining to get a UN46EH5000 Samsung or a 50LN1350 Toshiba. I am a big gamer(PC, PS3, Xbox) and I want to watch blu rays as well. Does it have a good response time for gaming? I want to be able to hook my PC up no problems, like have it fit the screen perfectly. Please help I'm doing all the research I can before I make a purchase. This TV is true 1080p right? Like if I watch a blu ray or play a pc game it will be true 1080p quality right? Thanks!
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post #1816 of 2438 Old 12-22-2013, 09:51 AM
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Don't confuse response time with lag time. Response time is always given as a spec. Lag times rarely, if ever are given because they are not really a spec. Hopefully someone has one of the two that you are looking for and will reply. Otherwise......
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post #1817 of 2438 Old 12-22-2013, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawe View Post

Please help me guys. I am determining to get a UN46EH5000 Samsung or a 50LN1350 Toshiba. I am a big gamer(PC, PS3, Xbox) and I want to watch blu rays as well. Does it have a good response time for gaming? I want to be able to hook my PC up no problems, like have it fit the screen perfectly. Please help I'm doing all the research I can before I make a purchase. This TV is true 1080p right? Like if I watch a blu ray or play a pc game it will be true 1080p quality right? Thanks!


You've narrowed your selection down and neither one is in the Display Lag's Input Lag Database.

Perhaps you've got a budget or have a local deal that just can be beat cool.gif
.. yet why not shop determinate upon the thing you'll be demanding most of your set.

http://www.displaylag.com/the-best-hdtvs-for-gaming-in-2013-part-2/

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post #1818 of 2438 Old 12-22-2013, 03:08 PM
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Thank you for replying. I noticed the 39l1350 is listed in that displaylag list, isn't the 50l1350 the same pretty much? Just bigger? It's mentioned of having a low input lag at 30ms. I currently have a toshiba 32av502u, how would that compare? Thanks!
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post #1819 of 2438 Old 12-22-2013, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawe View Post

Thank you for replying. I noticed the 39l1350 is listed in that displaylag list, isn't the 50l1350 the same pretty much? Just bigger? It's mentioned of having a low input lag at 30ms. I currently have a toshiba 32av502u, how would that compare? Thanks!

Your welcome. I would suggest finding/asking in Toshiba thread. Oceanspray Grape Juice to Ocenspray Cranberry Juice. Both labeled Ocenspray.
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post #1820 of 2438 Old 12-22-2013, 04:49 PM
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Yes it's 1080p.
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post #1821 of 2438 Old 12-23-2013, 06:03 PM
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I'm watching "the Matrix" , which is appropriate because I think I've found The One! No, It's not Keanu Reeves, it's a Sony 40R450 LED. I really tried to like the Samsung 5300 LED but I found I had to adjust the picture more than I wanted to depending on source (movie, sports, SD, HD). In addition, it had started to turn itself off. Perhaps it's too much of a stretch from the darker-screened Panny plasma that I have in the living room.

I had seen the Sony at Best Buy, and thought it looked the most like plasma. Having tried out a Vizio and a Samsung, I'm struck by the Sony's beautiful picture right out of the box. For me, picture quality is most important. I wish it were bigger, had more HDMI ports, was wireless, etc. but I already have a Sony blu-ray player and a VAIO laptop. If only they could synch together.

I still have a Panny 50S60 plasma and a Samsung LED 6300 that I haven't even opened. However, I really think my search has ended and I'd rather not open a box if I don't have to. I bought the Sony at COSTCO, which has the best return policy (also where I got the 5300).

Happy Holidays to one and all.
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post #1822 of 2438 Old 12-23-2013, 07:15 PM
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Happy Holidays back at ya:

Watching Turbo on my Sammy via Allshare.. Pictrue awesome..

Samuel L. Jackson better than ever giving advice

Whiplash: Are you a car?
Turbo: No (sounds dull)
Whiplash: Are you a car?
Turbo: Noo!!
Whiplash: Then stop driving like one

SEE YA..........
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post #1823 of 2438 Old 12-25-2013, 10:10 PM
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Picture settings for UN32 EH5300 (12/29/2013)

 

Hey people of AVSforum.com. I'm new here but have been following the thread for a couple of weeks, attempting to get some decent calibration settings for this TV. After 3 or 4 separate calibration attempts, I've arrived at these setttings and will update this thread periodically as new settings are calibrated for TV, movies, and console gaming.

 

 

 

Adjusted with WOW and S&M

 

 

Model No.: UN32EH5300F

Version: TS01

 

Gaming

I use these settings for Playstation 4 gaming with Settings>Sound and Screen> RGB Range:Automatic and YPb/Cb Pr/Cr Range: Automatic in the Playstation 4's settings (referred to as "Expanded" on XBOX). Make sure Black Level is set to "Low"

 

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Picture Mode: Standard (Game Mode:On)

 

Backlight: 20-  adjust for own lighting

 

Contrast: 96

Brightness: 47

Sharpness: 20 (Can be adjusted from 0-30, depending on your particular preference, I use 20 normally, and 30 on battlefield 4 to give me a slight edge)

Color: 38

Tint (G/R): G50-R50

Screen Adjustment: ScreenFit

 

Advanced Settings

Dynamic Contrast: OFF

Black Tone: OFF

Flesh tone: 0

RGB Only: OFF

Color Space: Auto

White Balance: R-Offset: 25, G-Offset: 25, B-Offset: 25, R-Gain: 0, G-Gain: 34, B-Gain: 50

Gamma: 0

Motion Lighting: OFF

 

Picture Options

Color Tone: Warm2

Dig. Noise Filter: OFF

MPEG Noise Filter: OFF

HDMI Black Level: Low

Film Mode: OFF

LED Motion Plus: OFF

 

Alternate method for users who want smoother edges on consoles:

 

Source>HDMI1,2,3(Whichever port your console is using)>Tools>Edit name>PC

 

Picture settings will be the same as above, with the exception of the settings that are greyed out, you can't change them.

 

This gives smoother edges (no "jaggies", as people say), at the sacrifice of your white balance and other controls. It's all personal preference really. Try both ways.

 

I will update these settings periodically.

If you have the same TV, but a different "panel" just try slowly adjust brightness and contrast until image looks realistic to you.

 

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

TV/Movie

 

Picture Mode: Movie (Game Mode:OFF)

 

Backlight: 20 (Eco Sensor:12 or your darkest viewing tolerance)

 

Contrast: 96

Brightness: 47

Sharpness: 45 (Some would be against this, but with Comcast and Blu-Ray I can ramp the Sharpness up to 100 with no artifacts, personal preference mostly)

Color: 48

Tint (G/R): G50-R50

Screen Adjustment: ScreenFit

 

Advanced Settings

Dynamic Contrast: OFF

Black Tone: OFF

Flesh tone: 0

RGB Only: OFF

Color Space: Auto

White Balance: R-Offset: 25, G-Offset: 25, B-Offset: 25, R-Gain: 0, G-Gain: 34, B-Gain: 50

Gamma: 0

Motion Lighting: OFF

 

Picture Options

Color Tone: Warm2

Dig. Noise Filter: OFF

MPEG Noise Filter: OFF

HDMI Black Level: Low

Film Mode: OFF

LED Motion Plus: OFF

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Also, these settings are not empirical. Adjust them to your own taste. It seems that most settings for these panels are very close to each other after adjusted properly. You may need to play with the red/green gains to get it perfect to your eye.

:Updated (01/10/2013)

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post #1824 of 2438 Old 12-26-2013, 04:18 AM
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Sorry but your settings won't get any other EH5x00 in the "ballpark".
Besides "ballpark" being a completelly subjective judgement of yours, no 2 LCD displays have exactly the same optical properties when they get out of the factory.
Each TV has to be calibrated independently and if there is no meter available then it's all up to the user judgement of what looks "good" on the screen, this last part applies particularly to gaming as you can't really make it look "realistic" when it's all synthetised graphics and game developers don't necessarily stick to Rec. 709 when they conceive their content.
With this in mind I can't criticise your apparent "ballpark" goal but if you were calibrating to see real content instead of gaming then I'd have to say that your settings are probably very very wrong.

But regardless of whether it's for gaming or real content, I can tell you right away that you went to extremelly unnecessary lenghts in some of your settings and you might be degrading picture quality.
For example your White Balance RGB Offsets are way to extreme and are probably raising your black level and degrading picture quality, RGB offsets shouldn't be raised by such large amount, if at all.
Some of your other settings probably had to be just as extreme to compensate for that.
I find it hard to believe that you used the disney wow calibration suite to check for white clipping, black level, etc... it seems that you tried to calibrate for Full RGB (0-255) but I can't see how you are not clipping the highest steps in Standard picture preset with those settings.
You need a lot more work with your settings, 3 or 4 attempts are not enough to give you a grasp of whether you are doing things right or wrong, they're a mess as they are right now.

Sorry if I may sound rude, it's just that it's important to not misinform nor to give unrealistic expectation to other people if we really want to help.
When one still has a lot to learn it's better not to declare anything at all and just research experiment and learn untl one has the true confidence of having a grasp of whatever it is that one is trying to do.
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post #1825 of 2438 Old 12-26-2013, 10:21 AM
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^^^^ agreed. Unless ROCKva used a calibrated light meter along with the appropriate software, at best he's possibly accurately adjusted HIS settings, but those aren't necessarily going to work on someone else's sets. Using someone else's settings might be a good way to get started on what your tv can do but you're best to set your tv and blu-ray player to their respective default settings (that is, absolutely no video processing enabled at all), get a disk like WoW or Spears & Munsil etc. and attempt to accurately adjust your tv to the REC. 709 standards based on the patterns found on the disks. If you feel you must post your settings, make it clear that these are adjusted settings based on a calibration disk and NOT calibrated settings. I've seen way too many newbies take these "calibration settings", apply them to their tv, and wonder what is wrong with their tv because it doesn't look "killer" like the OP's set did. And then spend hours of frustration trying to figure out why.

BTW, my son has an EH5300 with the S-PVA panel and the posted settings are not even close to his, and I've accurately adjusted his, in his viewing environment, with the free AVS HD709 disk.
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post #1826 of 2438 Old 12-26-2013, 05:47 PM
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Thanks for the last two posts. Very informative.

 

However, these settings are given on a "take it or leave it" basis. Judging by the default settings and the resulting images produced from them, I would have to disagree and say that almost any half-assed calibration attempt would be better than those horrible settings (with the exception of "Movie" mode, it's not too far off) Yes, WOW AV tools were used, it IS calibrated to Full RGB since most of the PS4 games I've seen so far are made with PC levels in mind. It's obvious when switching between the two output levels.

 

Not everyone can afford or has the time to attempt calibration. With that said, I created this post with game console and PC players in mind. It's the holidays and surely many are looking for better settings for their new Samsung's along with a Microsoft or Sony console and/or PC. Cheers.

 

I would like to invite the poster(s) above me to post their calibrated settings and panel types so that AVSforums users have more settings to try. I find it humorous that "giving the wrong settings" for people looking for "killer" images is taken so seriously. If you'd really like to see posts giving dangerous advice for new users to see, take a look at the posts showing service menu codes. Inexperienced users tend to be very curious about settings, codes, etc. and the service menu's are definitely the place to TRULY degrade your image quality, PERMANENTLY lol.

 

I understand that it's best to be an expert when "helping", however, A) this is a public forum where everyone isn't an expert, but because settings are subjective, I feel a higher variety of user's subjective settings for others to try would be more beneficial and B) settings can always be reverted to Default by resetting the picture settings if the tragedy of a picture setting degrading image quality on that user's particular set.

 

If anyone can answer my question definitively about Version "TSxx" being a Samsung panel, it would be much appreciated. Have a good evening.

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post #1827 of 2438 Old 12-26-2013, 06:48 PM
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^^^^ I think it's been confirmed by a number of individuals that the 2013 Samsung's that have a code designation that begins with Txxx is an S-PVA panel. I don't post my settings, adjusted and calibrated, because it oft-times leads to confusion and mis-understandings by those who don't know the difference between an accurately adjusted tv and a calibrated one. Those discussions should be taken up in the Display Calibration forum. Personally, I think it's best for new users to adjust the various modes with the usual control settings to taste and learn how your tv works. If that's not good enough, then pick up a disk and learn the basics of accurately adjusting your tv to REC. 709 settings using the control settings available to you. Games don't have to follow the REC. 709 video standards so if you can save different settings on your tv for games and tv/movie viewing its best. Depending on the tv, using the preset modes (Games, Movies, Standard, etc) don't always allow you access to all of the controls you'll need for adjusting/calibrating.

And yes, I absolutely agree with you on Service Mode access. It's not worth it!
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post #1828 of 2438 Old 12-26-2013, 07:10 PM
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Oh, to add to my first post. Keep in mind that if you are in a dark or dimly-lit environment, the backlight will be at "14" since the Eco Sensor is On. Play with the min backlight to increase or decrease the brightness on the the finest level according to your environment. In essence, if you don't choose to use the Eco Sensor and are in a dark or low-light environment, just calibrate your tv with those settings at Backlight:14, then use the backlight to increase or decrease the blacks to the finest level. If in a high lit environment, start the backlight on 20 and adjust down if needed (remember to cut the Eco Sensor back on if you manually adjust the Backlight slider.)

 

:Updated original thread

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post #1829 of 2438 Old 12-27-2013, 05:16 AM
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Haven't had a chance to adjust my Dad's UE40ES5500 yet but I noticed that when switched to his Virgin Media cable box, the menu backgrounds look very gray rather than black. Obviously I don't know what colour they're supposed to be but it may be that the box's output/HDMI level is higher than other devices, so that after adjusting the brightness/contrast with the mp4 files on the Media Player box on one input. switching to the cable box is then too bright. I don't know if this TV stores separate settings for each input but even if it does, there's no way to play any calibration files on the cable box, so I'm not sure how I'd adjust it properly anyway. I guess I could just adjust it until the menu backgrounds look black and see if that's better.

Another problem I've noticed is that a lot of programmes are broadcast so that everything (particularly noticeable on people) is out of proportion. This was using the 16:9 mode. I tried Smart View 2 I think and that showed the programme as a 16:9 frame but not using the full screen with a large black border. I think the only mode that made it fill the screen and look right was Zoom, which loses a bit of the edge but that doesn't matter so much. However, then other programmes will be zoomed when they shouldn't be. So is there any way to make it show proper content fullscreen and automatically zoom the other stuff to fill the screen?
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post #1830 of 2438 Old 12-27-2013, 09:33 AM
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This is my FitPC2 as primary Samsung's Allshare. It is a wireless N, 8 watt device that streams to the RJ45
connected Sammy. It is in Remote Desktop Connected, Avast screensaver mode now playing WMP 11
Playlist. It shares the HDMI/DVI connection that my Asus 8N32-SLI Deluxe Nvida 9800 GT Rig does.
IE.. I unplug the HDMI from the FitPC2 and jack it into the Gaming Rig. Settings stay identical.
Taken: 11/23/09 against my old Sony Viao rig.







Dynamic Contrast: OFF





Motion Lighting: OFF




FitPC2 XP Pro sp3 screen caps by Faststone:



Taken by Fujifilm FinePix AX650:
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