The *OFFICIAL* 2012 Samsung EH4000/EH5000/EH5300 Owner's Thread... - Page 64 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1891 of 2438 Old 01-08-2014, 03:57 AM
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Hi,

 

I bought this TV last week and took delivery a couple of days ago. Mine was a version 07 and the panel under the service menu was an 'A' panel. I still need to configure the pic settings to make the most of it thought.

 

However my post is a query regarding the sound and connections.

I wanted to find out what my options are in terms of connecting the TV to an amp? I believe this TV has a digital optical out (Toslink right?)

 

Ideally to connect a 3.5mm jack (sound IN) but from what I understand it is from digital source to analogue, thus conversion is needed, right? I had a quick look and came across this option but not sure if it will suffice?

 

the other option I believe is to use the headphone socket but this will cut out the TV speakers when in use right? Due to the stupid placement of the headphone jack I don't want to keep plugging in and unplugging from the jack on a daily basis, unless I can keep a cable connected and switch between the TV speakers and headphone only usage?

 

I would appreciate any help with this please.

 

Many thanks!

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post #1892 of 2438 Old 01-08-2014, 06:50 AM
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Your first option is the best but you might want to find a Dac with 3,5 mm output instead of RCA.
The second option might work and is simpler but won't allow for higher than 2 channel output (stereo).
Both options disable the TV speakers.
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post #1893 of 2438 Old 01-08-2014, 08:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x3ntaur View Post

Hi,

I bought this TV last week and took delivery a couple of days ago. Mine was a version 07 and the panel under the service menu was an 'A' panel. I still need to configure the pic settings to make the most of it thought.

However my post is a query regarding the sound and connections.
I wanted to find out what my options are in terms of connecting the TV to an amp? I believe this TV has a digital optical out (Toslink right?)

Ideally to connect a 3.5mm jack (sound IN) but from what I understand it is from digital source to analogue, thus conversion is needed, right? I had a quick look and came across this option but not sure if it will suffice?

the other option I believe is to use the headphone socket but this will cut out the TV speakers when in use right? Due to the stupid placement of the headphone jack I don't want to keep plugging in and unplugging from the jack on a daily basis, unless I can keep a cable connected and switch between the TV speakers and headphone only usage?

I would appreciate any help with this please.

Many thanks!

Hello and Welcome:
There are 2 way to get sound to AMP, (headphone jack) or Digital. 3 manners to have sound. AMP, Builtin, or Headphones. (I tested the headphone jack on tv, and it did not disable the built in speakers or the AMP.. I had audio simultaneously on all three.

Connection to any AMP would be specific to your AMP, I use Toslink. If your AMP has a Toslink, of course you'd want to use that, If your AMP is limited to having only RCA or 35mm then your limited to those type cables and interconnects and will have to use the 35mm Headphone out to AMP.

I don't understand your need for conversion unless your AMP only has Coaxial in.. then you're in need of this Toslink to Coaxial Coverter

If you're using a device that requires the use of the 35mm input ... say a computer or phone, then you'll get 2.0 stereo only to either the TV speakers, your headphones or the downmix to your AMP.

If you're concerned about working behind the TV for use of Headphone,
Jack your headphones into the AMP that has been Toslink connected from TV forgoing the plug in hassle.
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post #1894 of 2438 Old 01-08-2014, 10:48 AM
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The conversion is to connect the digital output to an analogue input. Yes the item linked to would do the job. Which model of TV is this anyway? The poster did not say.

I do not know whether connecting to the digital output would disable the TV speakers, I see no reason why it should - the digital output would normally go to an AV amp with its own volume control.

I have a cheap supermarket TV which provides separate volume controls on speakers and headphones, which can be used simultaneously. I have an expensive LG TV which refuses to output both simultaneously. I don't know what my Samsung does, I have never tried it.
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post #1895 of 2438 Old 01-08-2014, 11:16 AM
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Thank you for your responses guys, the TV is the Samsung UE32EH5000.
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post #1896 of 2438 Old 01-08-2014, 01:20 PM
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First, to play your TV audio through your amplifier or receiver, connect the TV to the amp or receiver with an optical (Toslink) digital cable. Then select the input where the optical cable is connected on your amp or receiver.

If your amp or receiver does not have an optical input connect the TV through the audio out (you'll need an adapter to split the mini plug to audio left/right) to your amp or receiver.

If you're using the optical, make sure to select Dolby Digital in the Sound Menu, SPDIF Output.

As far as using the amp with or without the TV speakers, from the UN32EH5000 Manual, also under the Sound menu:

Speaker Select
■ Speaker Select (External Speaker / TV Speaker): If you are listening to the sound track of a broadcast or movie through an external receiver, you may hear a sound echo caused by the difference in decoding speed between the TV’s speakers and the
speakers attached to your audio receiver. If this occurs, set the TV to External Speaker.
✎ When you set Speaker Select to External Speaker, the TV’s speakers are turned off. You will hear sound through the external speakers only. When you set Speaker Select to TV Speaker both the TV’s speakers and the external speakers are on. You will hear sound through both.
✎ When Speaker Select is set to External Speaker, the VOLUME and MUTE buttons will not operate and the sound settings will be limited.
✎ If there is no video signal, both the TV’s speakers and the external speakers will be mute.
Sound Reset
■ Reset All: Resets all sound settings to the factory defaults.

Hope this helps.
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post #1897 of 2438 Old 01-08-2014, 01:30 PM
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@iraweiss.

Thank you.
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post #1898 of 2438 Old 01-08-2014, 02:16 PM
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I don't understand why the other replies don't acknowledge the existence of TOSlink to analogue converters, or what they have against them. x3ntaur already said his amp doesn't have digital input, and the options will be better by connecting the digital output via a converter than by connecting with the headphone socket.
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post #1899 of 2438 Old 01-08-2014, 02:54 PM
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I did acknowledge it in my reply, it's called a DAC (Digital to Analog Converter).
Maybe you failed to read it?
Things were simple and straightforward until the other replies started to unecessarilly complicate...
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post #1900 of 2438 Old 01-08-2014, 03:55 PM
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I know you did...

However I think a stereo phono to 3.5mm stereo jack cable will be easier to find than a converter with 3.5mm stereo jack output.
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post #1901 of 2438 Old 01-09-2014, 09:31 AM
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FWIW the mini jack on the back is called an audio out jack, not a headphone jack. Samsung like many manufacturers is probably choosing to use a mini plug for analog audio output rather than dedicate the back panel real estate and cost to a pair of traditional left/right RCA jacks. I wonder if there would be any audible benefit to converting toslink to analog audio over what comes from the audio out jack anyhow.
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post #1902 of 2438 Old 01-09-2014, 10:49 AM
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The socket on the back of my UE32EH5000 has a headphone symbol next to it. The benefit of not using it is not having to unplug it when you want to use the internal speakers when the audio system is off.
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post #1903 of 2438 Old 01-09-2014, 05:56 PM
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I have another quick and basic question about the backlighting of UN40EH5000.

Because of a dead/stuck pixel issue and non-uniform backlighting issue, I exchanged a few times at local BestBuy, so I came to have a chance to compare a few different sets.
I noticed that backlight on the returned sets was turned off when there was nothing to display, and then turned on promptly when there happened something to display, and I thought it was a good trick to hide or minimize the irritation of watching flashlighting/clouding clearly, especially in a dark room. However, the set that I have now doesn't work in that way, and its backlight is always on as long as the TV is on. If I remember correctly, I used exactly same parameter settings when I tested them, including eco solutions, and I wonder if there were any settings that I might have missed to activate this feature.

Three sets that I tested, two returned ones and one that I keep now, were all manufactured in Oct. 2013, in Mexico, and the version was all UF04, which is Samsung S-PVA panel. Firmware version is 1022.0. The only difference that I could find was in their serial numbers: The two returned ones had _CUDA_ in their numbers, and the one that I have now has _CVDA_, which might mean that the current one is the newest because "V" comes after "U." rolleyes.gif

The one that I have now, it has the best backlight uniformity among the three, even though it has one dead pixel, so it is okay to notice some minor flashlighting/clouding near the corners for a few seconds when there is nothing to display, but I wonder if there is any way to make it turn off its backlight when the image has nothing to display.

Thanks for your replies in advance. smile.gif

Have a good day~~~
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post #1904 of 2438 Old 01-09-2014, 11:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quintno View Post

I've just purchased a 32UH5300F and I'm frustrated with the limitations of calibrating functions available in the COMPUTER input mode. Is there any way to adjust color? The movies that I try to play from my laptop are very washed out, no matter how I try to adjust the 4 available settings (Backlight, Contrast, Brightness, and Sharpness).
I'm very pleased with the calibrations that are available through inputs from cable, DVD, and USB drives. But movie viewing through computer, which I use quite frequently, is very unsatisfactory.

You said you were able to calibrate the screen in USB mode, but I wonder how you did it. When I press menu button in USB mode, it goes back to TV mode. I can only select among standard/dynamic/movie modes pressing tools button. Could you please let me know how you calibrate the screen in USB mode? Default settings for USB mode are quite annoying.

Have a good day~~~
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post #1905 of 2438 Old 01-10-2014, 03:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quintno View Post

I've just purchased a 32UH5300F and I'm frustrated with the limitations of calibrating functions available in the COMPUTER input mode. Is there any way to adjust color? The movies that I try to play from my laptop are very washed out, no matter how I try to adjust the 4 available settings (Backlight, Contrast, Brightness, and Sharpness).
I'm very pleased with the calibrations that are available through inputs from cable, DVD, and USB drives. But movie viewing through computer, which I use quite frequently, is very unsatisfactory.

 

So after a week or so of messing around with the Spears & Munsil 2nd Ed., I have settled with everything except the blue and green gains. This seems to be about the best I'm gonna get for my panel until I buy some tools or pay for an ISF cal. Updating original post....

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post #1906 of 2438 Old 01-10-2014, 03:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jun View Post

You said you were able to calibrate the screen in USB mode, but I wonder how you did it. When I press menu button in USB mode, it goes back to TV mode. I can only select among standard/dynamic/movie modes pressing tools button. Could you please let me know how you calibrate the screen in USB mode? Default settings for USB mode are quite annoying.

The picture settings in the USB media player should available to tweak when the video is played back.
Have you tried to calibrate while the video was running or while in the media player menu?
The behaviour of your TV when you press the Menu button doesn't seem normal to me... in my F5000 it always stays in USB media player menu and I think this is universal behaviour for all Samsung models.
When you say you press Menu button, you mean the button in the remote or some option in the USB menu?
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post #1907 of 2438 Old 01-10-2014, 07:49 AM
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Been looking at this Tv the last day or 2 seeing how the one my son uses now has died.

Looking at the stats it has everything we need and in our price range. we are looking at the 32" 5300. Is there another TV close to this price range that might be better?

We are replacing an older 30" Sony CRT wega that has the 6 or 7 red blink. Repair myself might be 50-100 dollars but really don't want to get into it and the kid wants 1080p finally.

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post #1908 of 2438 Old 01-10-2014, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kkl10 View Post

The picture settings in the USB media player should available to tweak when the video is played back.
Have you tried to calibrate while the video was running or while in the media player menu?
The behaviour of your TV when you press the Menu button doesn't seem normal to me... in my F5000 it always stays in USB media player menu and I think this is universal behaviour for all Samsung models.
When you say you press Menu button, you mean the button in the remote or some option in the USB menu?

Thanks for your reply. No matter whether I am playing a movie through USB or just on the media player menu, when I press menu button on the remote, it automatically switches to TV mode, and then displays menu for TV. I can only select one of the three picture modes (standard/movie/dynamic) through 'tools' button on the remote in USB mode. Maybe, this bug(?) might have been fixed in F5000 models in 2013. So, I am using USB connection on my bluray player connected to the TV through HDMI instead, but it would be much better to be able to use the media player on the TV set with proper settings. frown.gif


*** Samsung confirmed that picture setting modification is not allowed in USB mode in case of EH5000.

Have a good day~~~
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post #1909 of 2438 Old 01-10-2014, 11:58 AM
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It seems a bug indeed.
Besides a firmware update, I'm not sure if there's anything else you can do...
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post #1910 of 2438 Old 01-10-2014, 03:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMLocal175 View Post

Been looking at this Tv the last day or 2 seeing how the one my son uses now has died.

Looking at the stats it has everything we need and in our price range. we are looking at the 32" 5300. Is there another TV close to this price range that might be better?

We are replacing an older 30" Sony CRT wega that has the 6 or 7 red blink. Repair myself might be 50-100 dollars but really don't want to get into it and the kid wants 1080p finally.

If smart TV functionality and built-in media player are not important, LG 32LN5300/5310 might be another good choice with a better price tag. 32LN5700 will be a smart version of 32LN5300, but not sure about its price. Anyway, as you know, there are a lot of things to be considered when choosing a TV set, and if I were you, I will make a decision based on next things:

1. high contrast ratio is the most important thing: Samsung is better
2. I am going to frequently use the TV at more than +-30 degrees off the center: LG is better (should be IPS, see below)
3. I am going to use it out of the box without any calibration: In my opinion, LG is better (but quite subjective)
4. I am quite sensitive to the uniformity of backlight: In my experience, LG is better (see below)
5. I hate to have a TV with a few dead/stuck pixels: In my experience, LG is better (see below)
6. I'd like to choose a brand selling #1 all over the world. I hate #2: Samsung is better
7. I am going to use external amp/speakers through analog audio connection, not an optical connection: Samsung is better
8. TV set should handle fast moving objects quite well: In my opinion, LG is slightly better, maybe it's difference between 2012 (Samsung) vs. 2013 model.

about #2:
I have UN40EH5000FXZA model now, but at first, I bought LG 39LN5300 and 42LN5300 because I like natural/not overly exaggerated color reproduction with more wide viewing angles of IPS panel, but needed to return them because some VA panels (possibly made by Chimei or AUO) were used instead of IPS panels. Those VA panels were simply like a collection of disadvantages of VA and IPS: narrow viewing angle and low contrast ratio. So, if you decide to go with LG, please check whether or not its service code on the box has "Y" on the 4th from the right. In late December, most 32LN5300 sets at local BestBuy stores here in southern CA were IPS panel based ones. Based on my research, if it is "J", it is some cheap VA panel possibly made by ChiMei, and if it is "D", it is A-MVA3 panel made by AUO, which is better than "J", but worse than "Y."

about #4:
When it comes to backlight uniformity, I didn't feel irritated a lot when I bought 39/42LN5300, but UN40EH5000, it was so irritating, especially at around lower right corner. Even though the current 40EH5000 set that I have now is the best among the sets that I tested, but still I find myself looking for white spots on the screen in dark scenes here and there.

about #5:
All the UN40EH5000 sets that I tried had 1 - 3 dead/stuck pixels even though they were hard to find if not using a PC input. (Actually, when I returned them, BestBuy guys could not locate those dead pixels easily) I didn't have this problem with 39/42LN5300 from LG at least. Maybe that problem might be confined to the sets made in Oct.2013 in Mexico, using Samsung's S-PVA panels (version #: UF04), but not sure.

Hope this helps. smile.gif
xBLesSD likes this.

Have a good day~~~
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post #1911 of 2438 Old 01-16-2014, 09:22 AM
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Does anyone know if it is possible to share an external hard drive that is wired directly to my UN32EH5300 so that my PC can see it and access it (I am not interested in sharing drives connected directly to my PC or to a NAS). I want to be able to drop files from my PC directly to the hard drive that I have wired to my TV without having to move the hard drive from my tv to my pc and then back to my TV. Is this possible?
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post #1912 of 2438 Old 01-16-2014, 11:51 AM
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As I think of this in relation to my Sony Google TV, that has 2 gigs of memory for apps yet also includes FTP access to the Android file system to be written to. The Samsung Smart Series has a forum you can query.

I think this is a good question. We know the TV has built in memory and some space to install apps, however no application has been delivered to the App Store that allows access to the writable memory for file directory navigation/file management..


Developer Forum for Samsung Smart TV
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post #1913 of 2438 Old 01-17-2014, 04:50 PM
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Following on from my post #1905, I purchased some cables and this:

 

 

 

TV is connected to the above via a digital optical cable, my headset is connected to the 3.5mm.

 

TV speakers works alongside the digital out connected device so I have the TV speaker set to 0 when not in use.

 

:cool: 

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post #1914 of 2438 Old 01-18-2014, 12:50 AM
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Proving my point, thanks very much. I can't quite tell: does that have phono and jack outputs?

Are you aware that clicking on your image then provides access to your whole photo album?
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post #1915 of 2438 Old 01-18-2014, 06:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crashbot View Post

Proving my point, thanks very much. I can't quite tell: does that have phono and jack outputs?

Are you aware that clicking on your image then provides access to your whole photo album?

 

 

Yup, it has phono and jack outputs. I'm using the jack at present hooked up to my wireless Sennheisers.

 

 

Thanks for letting me know about the album. Didn't realise it did it but hopefully is okay now.

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post #1916 of 2438 Old 01-19-2014, 03:01 PM
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New owner of the Samsung UN32EH5300. Glad I found this thread. I've been pulling my hair out wrestling with this thing since Friday. I was horrified at the picture quality when first turning on. and nothing I did seemed to deliver the results that were acceptable. I have not been able to read the entire thing, so please forgive me for asking any often asked questions.

 

rbmaster's calibration settings helped a great deal, but the picture still is not where I'd like it to be. I'd prefer a crisp, brighter image than what I'm seeing. Plus, it appears as if the settings aren't holding...They are not as I set them, after tuning the tv on today. All inputs seem as if they've been changed. Also, the dimming issue does not seem to had been fixed since this thread was originally started-the picture will flicker regularly, and nothing I do turns it off. I watch alot of action/adventure/sci fi, with tons of darkly lit scenes, getting hit with this dimming effect. Special effects scenes in space will also be affected, dimming the star fields unless a large enough object enters the scene.

 

The tuner is also a let down. I use an A/B switch to send both raw cable and the SD cable feed to the RF jack. But the tuner doesn't appear to be integrated. Can't switch back and forth (meaning can't view analog ch3, then flip the A/B switch and dial a digital channel) without running the very long channel Auto Program each time. Ugh. Digital broadcast stations look very bad as well...

Overall, very bland colors, heavy on the contrast and grain. My comparisons are based on using a JVC 32in JLE32BC3001. While I loved the picture quality of the JVC, I wound up returning it in order to gain 'smart tv' features-and at a lower price. Now I'm wishing I had resisted temptation.

 

Has there been any possible workaround for the dimming issue? Any other settings for a brighter, clear picture?

 

 

Edit--I discovered that the channels are saved under Channel Listbutton. Pressing that showed them all, and sfter switching the A/B , you use Channel list to go to the digital stations. I wasn't able to dial directly when I first noticed the problem.


Dazed and confused over high tech.

Sigh...Concrap. The Internet Overlord Cometh
They're not com-tastic!
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post #1917 of 2438 Old 01-21-2014, 09:42 AM
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For me personally, running in "Movie" mode disables the screen dimming feature. I really hope they continue to support this TV and release a proper firmware to disable these minor annoyances.

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post #1918 of 2438 Old 01-23-2014, 05:37 AM
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just got the Samsung UE32F5000

when i was looking for problems with it, i couldn't find a single instance of ghosting online

it's only when i got the monitor and tried it out that i saw the massive overdrive ghosting, and only when looking at a youtube video with less than 3000 views did i learn that samsun uses cheap panels for that tv

i'm getting a refund

but i'm wondering, has samsung said anything about this?

when i first turned on that TV, it asked me where i am from, and the only choices were balkan countries like bulgaria or serbia

also checked the panel type by pressing the combination on the remote, and i got a H panel

 

guess i'm not buying a TV at all, i'm tired of gambling

 

here's an example of the overdrive overshoot

 

http://i.picpar.com/Uu6.jpg

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post #1919 of 2438 Old 01-23-2014, 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by fatherom View Post

The screen position thing blows my mind. Again, would be VERY easy for them to store that user change. The problem with the 16:9 setting is I can't control the amount of overscan, and I shouldn't HAVE to use it. Turns out my source (which is NOT a PC, but a DTVPal OTA DVR) is outputting things in such a way that it requires me to change the screen position if I use "Screen Fit" on the Samsung. Why provide a feature and allow the user to change the position of the image and then not retain that position? Again, poor programming, plain and simple.

Same issue here. It's unacceptable that the screen position setting is reset when powered off. I've updated software and it hasn't been fixed.
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post #1920 of 2438 Old 01-23-2014, 05:43 PM
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I just bought a 32 inch 5300, and can't install Netflix at all. It downloads fine but just stays on the installing screen for hours.

 

Latest firmware.

 

Any updates?

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