I picked up a new Samsung UN32EH5000 32" 1080p version for my bedroom. This narrow-bezel, compact-sized TV is the only one that can fit on my small bookcase on top. I'm spending some time calibrating this TV right now, and I would appreciate anyone sharing their picture settings.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaeelarr /forum/post/21923110
Ordered the 46" a few days ago, wont be here until next Monday though. Very intrigued by the full-array LED configuration. The only reason i never went the LED route was solely because of the edge-lit "technology". What a waste.
This full-array LED configuration is interesting. I had no knowledge of this when I first purchased it, but I was surprised how much the picture quality has improved from last year's edge-lit LED models. No wonder the new ones are thicker and deeper. Samsung also improved the built-in speaker quality as well.
I picked up the 40" EH5000 a couple of weeks ago after returning an LG 42" CS560. I'm using it as my main TV in my living room in conjunction with my Denon AVR-1712 receiver. I've been using it for gaming (PS3), watching movies and watching the occasional OTA broadcast.
I bought this model because the reviews said the picture quality was solid and it didn't have all the extra smartTV features that I have no use for. The lack of HDMI ports is mitigated by the receiver and I can stream music and movies through the PS3. I will say though, that I've been making good use of the Samsung internal USB media player as I can play high def MKVs that I am not able to play on the PS3.
I really like the TV so far. The colors are very vivid and the black levels are very deep compared to my old LCD. I haven't really tweaked the picture (aside from backlight) from the stock settings, as I really have no clue what I am doing. If anyone has some refined settings that they are happy with, please post. Otherwise I am very happy with my purchase.
Quote:
Originally Posted by iamyemma /forum/post/21931731
I picked up the 40" EH5000 a couple of weeks ago after returning an LG 42" CS560. I'm using it as my main TV in my living room in conjunction with my Denon AVR-1712 receiver. I've been using it for gaming (PS3), watching movies and watching the occasional OTA broadcast.
I bought this model because the reviews said the picture quality was solid and it didn't have all the extra smartTV features that I have no use for. The lack of HDMI ports is mitigated by the receiver and I can stream music and movies through the PS3. I will say though, that I've been making good use of the Samsung internal USB media player as I can play high def MKVs that I am not able to play on the PS3.
I really like the TV so far. The colors are very vivid and the black levels are very deep compared to my old LCD. I haven't really tweaked the picture (aside from backlight) from the stock settings, as I really have no clue what I am doing. If anyone has some refined settings that they are happy with, please post. Otherwise I am very happy with my purchase.
I too have this 32" 5000 series tv. I've been having issues with the image (DTV HR24) kind of pulsing focus. When watching CNBC - the people look sharp then slightly blurry, then sharp - back and forth. I never noticed this on my Samsung DLP's (56" & 60"). It's in my office and I'm sitting about 4' from the set. Have you seen this? What Picture settings have you liked?
^ I also answered this in the other thread in which you posted it, but if you're talking about variations in sharpness between the main CNBC studio shots and, e.g., remote studios (during remote guest interviews, for example), or less sharpness when recorded video is being shown (especially when it's sourced from a different network or other source), that's normal.
If you're talking about a continuous camera shot of, say, Jim Cramer or Mandy Drury
regularly going in and out of sharpness, then that's a problem.
Hey, I really like what I see out of the UN40EH5000, but my Sam's Club has the UN40EH5050 on sale. I am concerned since the 5050 has a lower contrast ratio it isn't the same panel. Does anyone know that for sure? If it's the same panel, I will be buying one this week. Unfortunately, i cannot compare them side by side to discern if there is a visual difference.
Sorry for the double post (it is also in the other UN40EH5000 thread), but I am really looking for someone who has seen both in person and can really tell if there is a discernible difference in performance between the 5000 and the 5050.
Quote:
Originally Posted by eknightavs /forum/post/21941142
Greetings!
Hey, I really like what I see out of the UN40EH5000, but my Sam's Club has the UN40EH5050 on sale. I am concerned since the 5050 has a lower contrast ratio it isn't the same panel. Does anyone know that for sure? If it's the same panel, I will be buying one this week. Unfortunately, i cannot compare them side by side to discern if there is a visual difference.
Sorry for the double post (it is also in the other UN40EH5000 thread), but I am really looking for someone who has seen both in person and can really tell if there is a discernible difference in performance between the 5000 and the 5050.
There is absolutely no difference at all in functionally. Both use the same panel with same contrast ratio. The only real difference between the EH5000 and EH5050 is the cabinet color. The EH5000 is all-black color, while the EH5050 is darkish-red color. The EH5050 is slightly cheaper than EH5000 since it's being sold in membership warehouses.
About to pull the trigger on either the 40" EH5000 or 40" EH6000. I read a review saying that the EH5000 had better picture quality. Which model should I purchase? It will be used as a bedroom TV for gaming and movies.
I tested my 5300 using the test pattern posted on this forum somewhere. I forget what the pattern is called. It was the simple one with color bars. It passes if the input is set to PC, otherwise not. The display then uses "native" color space which my testing shows is not correct for playing DVD's using the computer, but the display looks so much better with everything else this way, this is how I run it.
PC mode also keeps the backlight from shutting off automatically when the screen goes full black which is a good thing, as this feature is not implemented properly. Meaning in non-PC mode, sometimes a fade to black ends up with the backlight blinking on and off when it should stay off. I did not notice how many fade to blacks there are in movies until watching in non-PC mode where this unit would flash on and off. Even if it did not flash, turning the backlight off took me out of the movie. I think this feature should have like a 15 second delay to be used as a screen blanker. That way if playing audio only, it will shut off, or if you set the screen saver to black, it will shut off. I wish that it was possible to use an input for audio only. If an input does not have a video signal, it cannot be selected. I saw nothing in the service menu to change this.
I like that you can actually use the light sensor on this model because you can set the minimum backlight and the maximum backlight. The regular backlight setting is what will be used when it is light, and the minimum setting is what is used when it is dark. This works really well. Sometimes it will go back and forth maybe two to three times when the light is right on the edge, but overall it works really well. It lowers the backlight when I would do it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kellybob /forum/post/21954215
I posted this in another thread. I thought it good information for this thread.
I tested my 5300 using the test pattern posted on this forum somewhere. I forget what the pattern is called. It was the simple one with color bars. It passes if the input is set to PC, otherwise not. The display then uses "native" color space which my testing shows is not correct for playing DVD's using the computer, but the display looks so much better with everything else this way, this is how I run it.
PC mode also keeps the backlight from shutting off automatically when the screen goes full black which is a good thing, as this feature is not implemented properly. Meaning in non-PC mode, sometimes a fade to black ends up with the backlight blinking on and off when it should stay off. I did not notice how many fade to blacks there are in movies until watching in non-PC mode where this unit would flash on and off. Even if it did not flash, turning the backlight off took me out of the movie. I think this feature should have like a 15 second delay to be used as a screen blanker. That way if playing audio only, it will shut off, or if you set the screen saver to black, it will shut off. I wish that it was possible to use an input for audio only. If an input does not have a video signal, it cannot be selected. I saw nothing in the service menu to change this.
I like that you can actually use the light sensor on this model because you can set the minimum backlight and the maximum backlight. The regular backlight setting is what will be used when it is light, and the minimum setting is what is used when it is dark. This works really well. Sometimes it will go back and forth maybe two to three times when the light is right on the edge, but overall it works really well. It lowers the backlight when I would do it.
Im using the same color space with HDMI1 set to PC mode, I was wondering why my LED backlight was not shutting off when showing an all black image so thats the culprit, but its a nobiggy.
I also like how the light sensor works, the transition is extremely smooth and subtle till it hits the target, where is the sensor located anyway ?
I also noticed that the default HDMI back level is set to "low" which gives a MASSIVE black crush if your using 1-255 full range in PC, had to set it to normal. Really great value for the screen and specs, though I can see ghosting if I look for it instead of actually play my games, same ghosting amount as my 5ms TN panel. But for $480 its something I cannot really complain about.
Anyone have the 5300? I'm reading the Amazon reviews and a couple people are having a problem with the TV automatically turning off after some time. Also if you have the TV can you post some pics so we can see the pic quality?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pandemonium08 /forum/post/21955411
Im using the same color space with HDMI1 set to PC mode, I was wondering why my LED backlight was not shutting off when showing an all black image so thats the culprit, but its a nobiggy.
I also like how the light sensor works, the transition is extremely smooth and subtle till it hits the target, where is the sensor located anyway ?
I also noticed that the default HDMI back level is set to "low" which gives a MASSIVE black crush if your using 1-255 full range in PC, had to set it to normal. Really great value for the screen and specs, though I can see ghosting if I look for it instead of actually play my games, same ghosting amount as my 5ms TN panel. But for $480 its something I cannot really complain about.
My guess is the light sensor is in the joystick control pod. I have a service manual ordered, but not sure if I am going to get it. Not impressed with SamsungParts.com. I am going to have to see if they respond to a phone call. I also ordered the stand for the 5000 as it is much larger and rectangular. It is more stable and I like the looks better than the oval 5300 stand.
I am not a gamer, so no comments there. I have not been able to change the HDMI black level. It is fine at normal. I have the 5300.
There are three models being discussed in this thread, be a little more specific. So far we know they are LED direct-lit LCD panels, with the following reported model numbers:
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Originally Posted by semlethe3rd /forum/post/21961235
There are three models being discussed in this thread, be a little more specific. So far we know they are LED direct-lit LCD panels, with the following reported model numbers:
How does these panel id numbers translate to defining the panel quality (TN, IPS, MVA and PVA etc) and has anyone identified the motion resolution? I'm strongly considering the 32EH5000, for gaming and pc usuage.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Techtonic /forum/post/21963449
How does these panel id numbers translate to defining the panel quality (TN, IPS, MVA and PVA etc) and has anyone identified the motion resolution? I'm strongly considering the 32EH5000, for gaming and pc usuage.
Im using the 32EH5000 for PC gaming, I have no issues with the motion coming from a TN monitor. The TV is perfect aside from the viewing angle 'cone' that is with all S-PVA panels when you are up close or off angle.
Can anybody clarify the differences between the EH4000 and EH5000 series?
The only difference I can find is that the EH4000 is 720p rather than 1080p. If they're identical other than this then I might pick up the 26 inch EH4000 for a bedroom.
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