Official Samsung UNXXES7100 Thread. - Page 97 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2881 of 2899 Old 12-25-2014, 07:22 PM
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Is it just me or did anyone else notice how Samsung removed YouTube app from their ES7100 series? Same thing happened to my EH5300 series TV in spare bedroom.
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post #2882 of 2899 Old 12-27-2014, 04:30 PM
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I just checked , mine is still there ...
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post #2883 of 2899 Old 12-28-2014, 07:47 PM
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Why when you turn on game mode it becomes so bright? The brightness or contrast calibration doesn't change but it still gets super bright, why?
It should be called torch mode....
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post #2884 of 2899 Old 02-03-2015, 04:55 AM
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Anybody using the rs232
to control the tv?
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post #2885 of 2899 Old 02-03-2015, 04:56 AM
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Anybody using the rs232 to control the tv
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post #2886 of 2899 Old 03-05-2015, 01:39 PM
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Latest update
2003.2 all good

The version is 2003.2
This firmware update will improve the following:
- Support Amazon and FiOS TV app
- Resolves Black when running Netflix.
- Resolves the issue that TV changes the source or picture size after exit from Nextflix.
- Resolves issue Netfilx doesn''t log on
- Support Samsung Link<br> - Support Verizon Apps
- Support Netflix 3.2 codec
- Resolves picture shaking and line noise on 1080p source.
- Supports Yahoo SyncPlus app..
- Resolves escaping issue while watching movie on VUDU.
- Resolves issue Cinemanow does not play certain title.
- Resolves compatibility issue with DLNA devices.
- Improves picture quality.
- Supports Samsung wireless audio dock (WAD) - * series ES6500 and above only
- Solves the problem closed caption does not show.


This TV is still rocking for me 2 years later.
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post #2887 of 2899 Old 03-29-2015, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Alzarius View Post
Interesting. I've been having similar issues with my UN60ES7100 for over a year now but never bothered to tinker with it because I didn't care too much for the network connectivity. At the start, the wifi connection worked fine though it was definitely slow and there was constant buffering when using youtube. Then after a few months, the connection just disappeared. Then almost a year later the wifi came back again automatically because I noticed SmartHub was auto-updating. The TV and my router never moved an inch within that year and the connection just magically came back. Bizarre. Anyway, a few months later, the wifi again disappeared.

A few days ago, I moved my router into my living room and put it right next to the TV so I can use a wired connection to it. The TV connected to it at the start, but the connection is unstable and it disconnects after 3 minutes. Worse, the TV now freezes whenever I press the SmartHub button or want to check any network settings from the TV menu. It freezes and won't respond to any buttons on the remote, then automatically turns off, then turns back on again.

Should I just try a reset on it?
An update: the situation is now even worse. I've avoided using any network function on it just so that it won't freeze. But this weekend, it did the off-on thing every 5 minutes. I know there are numerous accounts of this problem in other threads. Sounds like either a capacitor issue, the power board, the main board, or the ribbon that connects the two. I took the back panel off the TV and the capacitors on the power board look fine. The individual components are easy enough to take apart and replace, but searching online it looks like these parts are out of stock everywhere! I'm assuming it must be a large number of these sets have problems.

Anyway, I'm stumped now and will probably call Samsung (out of warranty) or a TV repair place. Pretty sure it would be cheaper to just do it myself, but can't find the parts anywhere.

The weird thing is the off-on cycle happens every 5 minutes.... on the friggin dot. What kind of defect would cause this?

An update: I tried disconnecting the WIFI connector from the main board (upper right) and the problem seems to be gone. Maybe the bad wifi module was making the TV restart every 5 minutes.

Last edited by Alzarius; 03-30-2015 at 04:42 PM.
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post #2888 of 2899 Old 04-03-2015, 08:03 PM
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I am having an issue with my TV I just bought this morning from Costco. I have noticed while watching live basketball and hockey a flash of white light, like someone is taking a picture with the flash firing happens, almost like a flickering. I do not notice this during commercial breaks or watching movies or the news. Anyone else experience this issue, it is pretty annoying and I am really not happy with my new TV purchse at the moment. Thanks.
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post #2889 of 2899 Old 04-04-2015, 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Andy Merrill View Post
I am having an issue with my TV I just bought this morning from Costco. I have noticed while watching live basketball and hockey a flash of white light, like someone is taking a picture with the flash firing happens, almost like a flickering. I do not notice this during commercial breaks or watching movies or the news. Anyone else experience this issue, it is pretty annoying and I am really not happy with my new TV purchse at the moment. Thanks.
I am sorry posted this in the wrong thread
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post #2890 of 2899 Old 06-02-2015, 08:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alzarius View Post
An update: the situation is now even worse. I've avoided using any network function on it just so that it won't freeze. But this weekend, it did the off-on thing every 5 minutes. I know there are numerous accounts of this problem in other threads. Sounds like either a capacitor issue, the power board, the main board, or the ribbon that connects the two. I took the back panel off the TV and the capacitors on the power board look fine. The individual components are easy enough to take apart and replace, but searching online it looks like these parts are out of stock everywhere! I'm assuming it must be a large number of these sets have problems.

Anyway, I'm stumped now and will probably call Samsung (out of warranty) or a TV repair place. Pretty sure it would be cheaper to just do it myself, but can't find the parts anywhere.

The weird thing is the off-on cycle happens every 5 minutes.... on the friggin dot. What kind of defect would cause this?

An update: I tried disconnecting the WIFI connector from the main board (upper right) and the problem seems to be gone. Maybe the bad wifi module was making the TV restart every 5 minutes.
Hi Alzarius - Is your TV still working fine after disconnecting the wi-fi module? I wonder if disabling wi-fi from the menus would accomplish the same thing? My 7100 started doing the off-on thing two days ago, haven't timed it exactly but seems like about every 5 minutes. Very annoying!! My TV is past the 2-yr Costco warranty but is still within the Square warranty so I can get it looked at if the problem doesn't go away.

Go Aggies!
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post #2891 of 2899 Old 06-17-2015, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jclimber99 View Post
Hi Alzarius - Is your TV still working fine after disconnecting the wi-fi module? I wonder if disabling wi-fi from the menus would accomplish the same thing? My 7100 started doing the off-on thing two days ago, haven't timed it exactly but seems like about every 5 minutes. Very annoying!! My TV is past the 2-yr Costco warranty but is still within the Square warranty so I can get it looked at if the problem doesn't go away.
Update: the off-on cycling only happens when the Wi-Fi is active. The wifi on this TV sucks anyway, so much of the time it can't see my network (all other wi-fi devices in the house have no issues) and in this state it never turns off. But when the wi-fi is on it does the cycling. And when the wi-fi is working if I try to go to the Network Settings menu the TV locks up (still shows picture/audio but no remote functions work until the TV is power-cycled). If the wi-fi is not working I can go to this menu but doesn't see any way to change the existing settings.

Is there any way to turn off the wi-fi? I looked at doing a master reset but that doesn't change the network settings. Only way I think is to change my wifi network name on the router but that would be a major pain. It has one other issue anyway, when watching TV thru the antenna source every so often the screen pixelates (and the audio if listening via external speaker is distorted) for a second or so. This never happens when watching video from any other source, and it doesn't happen on my other TV's.

Go Aggies!
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post #2892 of 2899 Old 06-17-2015, 05:09 PM
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hey jclimber, have you tried connecting by wire ? cat 5 or 6 , that should give
you the option to run that instead of wifi... and solve the on/off problem..


I went with wired a few months ago and glad I switched...
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post #2893 of 2899 Old 06-18-2015, 06:50 PM
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hey jclimber, have you tried connecting by wire ? cat 5 or 6 , that should give
you the option to run that instead of wifi... and solve the on/off problem..


I went with wired a few months ago and glad I switched...
Welllll, don't have a wired connection close to the TV. Maybe I could just stick an Ethernet cable in the jack and that would be enough to fake it out?

Go Aggies!
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post #2894 of 2899 Old 06-26-2015, 02:57 PM
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Apologies if this has been answered already, I did my best to search this thread (and other Samsung threads) to find a solution that works. I've read so many posts, I feel like my eyes are going to bleed...

A little over a month ago, my UN55ES7100 started power cycling. At first it was every few minutes. I took off the back panel to check the capacitors and none were bulging. After that (perhaps coincidentally), the TV would only power cycle after about 2 minutes of being turned on and would not power cycle again no matter how long I had the TV on. It was a small enough annoyance that I could live with it. Until yesterday.

A few days ago, it started power cycling every 3-4 minutes. Again, I removed the back panel and bezel. I made sure all cables were secure and that there was no scorching on any of the boards or cables. I replaced the batteries in my remote. I turned off all Eco Mode settings. I disconnected the network cable and made sure wi-fi was off. I did a factory reset. I installed the latest firmware from USB (version 2004.0 from the Samsung site, dated June 5, 2015). After the firmware update, neither the remote control nor the control button on the back of the TV would work. I unplugged the set for a few minutes, then plugged it back in and powered it up, then the remote worked again. While recalibrating the picture, the TV would power cycle every 3-4 minutes. Since then, it has gone back to power cycling after about 2 minutes of being turned on and from time to time, will power cycle up to 3 times before staying on.

Has anyone discovered a definitive solution to the power cycling issue? I saw Alzarius say that he disconnected the wi-fi cable. If anyone has a pic they could post showing where that is, I'll give that a try. If anyone here went through Samsung service (I'm out of warranty), what kind of cost did you find yourself looking at?

Thank you so much in advance for any help. I'm at my wits end!
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post #2895 of 2899 Old 07-17-2015, 02:01 PM
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Has anyone discovered a definitive solution to the power cycling issue? I saw Alzarius say that he disconnected the wi-fi cable. If anyone has a pic they could post showing where that is, I'll give that a try. If anyone here went through Samsung service (I'm out of warranty), what kind of cost did you find yourself looking at?

Thank you so much in advance for any help. I'm at my wits end!
Did you set the TV up for wi-fi? I couldn't find a way to disable it but if you change the SSID of your wifi network (on your router) then the TV cannot connect (since it will be using the old SSID name) and that may fix the power cycling.

Go Aggies!
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post #2896 of 2899 Old 07-20-2015, 07:14 AM
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TV replaced by Squaretrade

Update on my power cycling 7150 (Costco version of 7100). I filed a claim with Squaretrade describing the power cycling issue, as well as some cloudy spots when the screen was dark and a minor issue where the screen would briefly pixelate when watching an antenna source. They declined to fix the TV (citing cost) so sent me a new UN55JU7100F, a 4K TV. Interestingly they also told me to keep my old TV instead of sending it back. Took only about 3 days for the TV to arrive from Amazon (via Ceva Logistics), they set it up on the stand before leaving so I could see that it worked.

It's a really nice TV! Only two disappointments are that my Mac is too old (2011 model) to drive a 4K monitor and there is a bulge spanning the width of the TV at the bottom. That bulge prevents my wall mount brackets from sitting flush unless the bottom of the bracket is above the bulge area, which means the TV now sits about 2" lower than before when hung on the wall. Not a huge issue but still would have liked the TV to sit at the same height. I'd now have to move the mount on the wall about 2" up which would be a fair amount of work so leaving it as is for now.

Surprisingly this TV is both wider (extra 3/8 ") and thicker (extra 1.5") than the ES7100. I guess the 4K circuitry takes more room in the TV. Also new is that there are no HDMI ports on the TV itself, instead it comes with a connect box that has 4 HDMI ports (and two USB and one digital optical out) that you then connect to the TV with a special cable.

Squaretrade also says that this TV is covered for the remainder of my warranty (a little more than 2 years). Definitely glad I paid the $100 for the warranty when I bought the original TV. But disappointed with the Samsung quality on the first TV, hopefully this TV will last longer than 2.5 years.

Go Aggies!
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post #2897 of 2899 Old 08-11-2015, 06:26 AM
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Hey, sorry if I'm a little late to the party. I just went through basically the same exact situation that you've described. This morning I finally decided that enough was enough and I started taking the TV apart. I noticed that none of the capacitors were bulged or anything like that. I started disconnecting things to see if that would alleviate the problem. The Wi-Fi module runs off of the same cable bundle that the back panel button runs off of. I haven't had much time to thoroughly test it yet but it seemed to me like the power cycling wasn't happening anymore. I need to test it more after work. I'm really hopeful that this is what the problem was considering that the TV is less than 3 years old. Anyhow, you have to remove the back panel and then you have to remove the outer bezel panel in order to get to the Wi-Fi module. It's a separate unit from the button, but quite close together, it's like a little black square thingy. Hopefully that helps!
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post #2898 of 2899 Old 08-14-2015, 12:47 PM
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Hey, sorry if I'm a little late to the party. I just went through basically the same exact situation that you've described. This morning I finally decided that enough was enough and I started taking the TV apart.
Hi Doug. Is your power cycling fixed? Before you took the TV apart, did you try changing your SSID on your router so the TV couldn't connect to the network?

Go Aggies!
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post #2899 of 2899 Old 08-15-2015, 10:46 AM
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UN55ES7100F TV will not power on following lightning storm

Following a lightning storm my Samsung UN55ES7100F TV would not power on. The power led is steady red when I first plug the TV in. When I press the power key on the remote I hear a single click followed by another click 2.5 seconds later. Following the second click the power led blinks twice, 5 times. The process then starts all over again.

I removed the cable between the Power Supply and the Main Board and the screen backlight comes on and remains on as long as the TV is plugged in.

With the Power Supply (BN44-00523A) and the Main Board (BN41-01807A) cable reconnected, the voltages on the Power connector (CNM-803) to the Main Board after the first click are:

Pin - Name - level
1. OD_LEVEL - 5V (H/L cycling)
3. OD_ON/OFF - 5V
7. B13V - 13V
9. B13V - 13V
10. B13V - 13V
11. V amp - 13V
12. BLU ON/OFF - 0V
13. V amp - 13V
17. B5V - 5V
18. A5V - 5V
19. B5V - 5V
20. POWER ON/OFF - 5V

Following the second click all pins drop to 0 Volts except for pin 18 (A5V) which remains at 5V. The BLU_On never goes high.

I can see that pin 1 (OD_Level) cycles from high to low several times between the 2 clicks. I’ve attached an image of the power on sequence for review.

Can anyone tell me if the high/low cycling on the OD_Level pin is normal and what the OD Level is actually for? I’ve done many google searches and can’t find any reference to OD Level in regards to a TV Power supply.

I’m thinking that I need to purchase a new Main board but do you have any other suggestions on things I should look at first? I did disconnect the WiFi module, the T-Con board and the speakers but that didn’t change the power on behavior. Still 1 click, led blinking twice 5 times followed by another click.
Thanks!
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