Sony XBR-HX950 Owners' Thread (XBR-55HX9​50 and XBR-65HX95​0) - Page 40 - AVS Forum
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post #1171 of 4525 Old 10-25-2012, 01:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoelxD View Post

Thanks for the reply IMRIZZO, I do know typical real "Break In" needs are for Plasma's, yes, but I am talking about the break in period on ALL T.V.'s were one should wait 200hrs of use before calibrating. .

What part of it is not needed do you not understand, sir? There is no break in for modern LCD pixels, only plasma phosphors.
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post #1172 of 4525 Old 10-25-2012, 01:37 PM
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my 'friends' at BB won't come out to calibrate my TV until its at least 100 hours...
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post #1173 of 4525 Old 10-25-2012, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoelxD View Post

Hmmm, but don't you need to let the TV pixels "settle" for approx 200 hrs before calibration ? LCD's don't change as much as Plasma's, but they DO change a touch for the first 200hrs I heard.

Sorry if I sounded rude, but I've never heard this.
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Originally Posted by JoelxD View Post



Also, is it just me and my settings, or is MotionFlow, Cinemotion and all that crap just messing up the picture ? I don't really see it doing anything, and if anything I see it making the motion look worse

MotionFlow on Standard with Cinema on Auto 1 does AMAZING things to dejudder BluRay movies (and video games) without introducing Soap Opera Effect or motion artifacts. Try the chapter in Night at the Museum where it is panning across all the miniature figurines and finally switches to the pyramind. It's right at the start of one the chapters and is my standard motion interpolation test. The result will ASTOUND YOU. Smooth panning, almost zero judder or blur, NO soap opera effect, no artifacts. The most amazing thing I've ever seen a TV do.,
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post #1174 of 4525 Old 10-25-2012, 01:45 PM
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Your pre and post calibration report slide 5 shows significant GREEN PUSH. Which is exactly what I noticed almost immediately on this TV and so ended up setting my G-Gain to -6. Guess my eyes are as good as fancy equipment. biggrin.gif

By the way, I don't think my eyes could stand 6500K color temperature, even though it is "correct". Way too warm and dim for me, really enjoy the default out of box Home mode General - Standard - Neutral - middle backlight, middle brightness color temperature which I think is probably 8000K.
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post #1175 of 4525 Old 10-25-2012, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lexicon4444 View Post

Thanks Flavius and others for the replies. I wanted to post some photos so you could comment whether what I'm seeing is excessive or would be considered "normal".
Pic 1: Scene Select - Game - All Default Settings
Pic 2: Scene Select - Game - Local Dimming Standard
Pic 3: Scene Select - Auto - All Default Settings
Is this essentially what your sets look like? Disregard the reflection of my dog in the bottom middle =) Focus on the upper right corner and the left side of the panel.



This proves my point, in game mode with local dimming on standard, the dimming is not as effective as in standard/auto scene with local dimming on standard.

I wouldn't personally be happy with that much clouding, although backlight is 7 in game scene, i have mine at 2.

Aaron
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post #1176 of 4525 Old 10-25-2012, 02:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flavius View Post

Sorry if I sounded rude, but I've never heard this.
MotionFlow on Standard with Cinema on Auto 1 does AMAZING things to dejudder BluRay movies (and video games) without introducing Soap Opera Effect or motion artifacts. Try the chapter in Night at the Museum where it is panning across all the miniature figurines and finally switches to the pyramind. It's right at the start of one the chapters and is my standard motion interpolation test. The result will ASTOUND YOU. Smooth panning, almost zero judder or blur, NO soap opera effect, no artifacts. The most amazing thing I've ever seen a TV do.,

Hi Flavius, have you tried motionflow standard at all?

I find for me personally with it on standard people move in a really odd way, like they are on fast forward. I personally like clear as it really helps with motion blur.

Aaron
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post #1177 of 4525 Old 10-25-2012, 03:36 PM
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Please check out my Sony XBR-HX950 Settings Thread; I think it was time for one.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1435724/sony-xbr-hx950-settings-thread

http://www.avsforum.com/g/a/2135446/my-ht/

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post #1178 of 4525 Old 10-25-2012, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Cev214 View Post

From what I heard sony now buys there's panels from sharp

I think sharp doesn't make 65 inch panels.
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post #1179 of 4525 Old 10-25-2012, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caloyzki View Post

After my set was calibrated by ISF Pro.

No offense, but I'm not sure why you are posting this here. You said you have an LG, but you are posting these same images in various threads throughout the LCD Display Forum (Samsung, Sony, etc.) What is the takeaway a non-LG owner is supposed to get from your post calibration shots?
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post #1180 of 4525 Old 10-25-2012, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HaRd2BeAr View Post

This proves my point, in game mode with local dimming on standard, the dimming is not as effective as in standard/auto scene with local dimming on standard.
I wouldn't personally be happy with that much clouding, although backlight is 7 in game scene, i have mine at 2.
Aaron

I already said you were right earlier. But the difference is much more subtle on my set than what is shown here. I don't think he had the same backlight and/or brightness setting in Game mode as he did the General bottom picture. The Game mode clouding on my set is basically INVISIBLE and I am HAPPY with the clouding on my set because I only see it under conditions that my set will NEVER BE IN viewing real programming. Let's not start saying clouding is an issue on the HX950 because that would be patently ridiculous. The shot I posted shows the BRIGHTEST backlight setting with local dimming off in GAME mode. Reduce the backlight to 5, the sane setting, or turn on local dimming, and the clouds go POOF.
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post #1181 of 4525 Old 10-25-2012, 04:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HaRd2BeAr View Post

Hi Flavius, have you tried motionflow standard at all?
I find for me personally with it on standard people move in a really odd way, like they are on fast forward. I personally like clear as it really helps with motion blur.
Aaron

I run MotionFlow Standard and Cinema on Auto 1 (NOT Auto 2 or Off)) for EVERYTHING I can because I did extensive testing in all modes to figure out the mode that had the least Soap Opera Effect, and no motion artifacts in games while eliminating 90% of distracting judder and flicker. Then I compared it to the latest Samsiung AMP modes that do the same thing. The Sony on Motion Standard Cinema Auto 1 is best mode possible between both sets. It is incredible. Leave it in that mode, you'll get used to it. Clear does not eliminate nearly enough judder for my tastes.
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post #1182 of 4525 Old 10-25-2012, 05:15 PM
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This is going more into a personal preference & opinion area, but I thought I could see odd artifacts with CineMotion on either Auto 1 or Auto 2, so I keep CineMotion off.

Motionflow by itself seems to do a relatively good job. If you want the ultimate in Soap Opera Effect, set Motionflow to smooth. It is a world of difference from how I typically watch movies with it disabled, reproducing a theater like 24 Hz. I tried a few movies with it set to "smooth", and it definitely smooths things out.

Bazinga!

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post #1183 of 4525 Old 10-25-2012, 05:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flavius View Post

I already said you were right earlier. But the difference is much more subtle on my set than what is shown here. I don't think he had the same backlight and/or brightness setting in Game mode as he did the General bottom picture. The Game mode clouding on my set is basically INVISIBLE and I am HAPPY with the clouding on my set because I only see it under conditions that my set will NEVER BE IN viewing real programming. Let's not start saying clouding is an issue on the HX950 because that would be patently ridiculous. The shot I posted shows the BRIGHTEST backlight setting with local dimming off in GAME mode. Reduce the backlight to 5, the sane setting, or turn on local dimming, and the clouds go POOF.

Sorry i must of missed that while browsing on my phone. redface.gif

Just raised the point as others don't seem aware of it. It's a shame i notice the input lag so much when playing FPS otherwise i would use Standard mode in a heartbeat.

Will test out the motion flow in 3D tomorrow. wink.gif

Cheers.

Aaron
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post #1184 of 4525 Old 10-25-2012, 06:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flavius View Post

What part of it is not needed do you not understand, sir? There is no break in for modern LCD pixels, only plasma phosphors.

Hmmm, I humblily and respectfully disagree with this theory of yours. I've been told from others like us, plus professional calibraters, and Sony themselves and the salesman at Magnolia that though LCD's change LESS than Plasma's, they do indeed change, and do the most changing in the first 100-200hrs.

I've been told by every professional calibrater that I called that they will not calibrate my TV until at least 100hrs have been put on it. Though some said 200hrs would be ideal. And the reasoning is for what I've been saying. I'm not techy enough to explain it like they do, so I might get some wording or terms wrong, but it is something to do with they way the pixels represent colors, and that will change slightly over time, and do the most maturing in the first 200hrs. Hence - No calibrating till then.

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Originally Posted by CaneDawgg View Post

my 'friends' at BB won't come out to calibrate my TV until its at least 100 hours...

Exactly my point. Thank you for confirming it and reiterating it properly ! I was told this too. And all for the reasons I explained above.
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Originally Posted by Flavius View Post

Sorry if I sounded rude, but I've never heard this.

Its ok man, I know how to take things, I knew how you meant it. All in knowledge debating and sharing info, its cool brutha ! You are obviously more tech savvy than I at this exact stuff, and I would love to learn from you and try your settings. I just don't think it is a proven fact yet or ever that these screens don't at least benefit SOMETHING from break in before calibration. DO they NEED it ? No, not at all, and I never said that. But I do think they benefit from it, and therefore super anal video nuts like us should do it for best possible outcome.
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Originally Posted by Flavius View Post


MotionFlow on Standard with Cinema on Auto 1 does AMAZING things to dejudder BluRay movies (and video games) without introducing Soap Opera Effect or motion artifacts. Try the chapter in Night at the Museum where it is panning across all the miniature figurines and finally switches to the pyramind. It's right at the start of one the chapters and is my standard motion interpolation test. The result will ASTOUND YOU. Smooth panning, almost zero judder or blur, NO soap opera effect, no artifacts. The most amazing thing I've ever seen a TV do.,

Ok, SWEET, I guess I will try this. This is EXACTLY the type of info I need from someone of your knowledge and experience. Exact things to try AND pointing out what to look for in material you suggest. PERFECT !!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by gorthocar View Post

This is going more into a personal preference & opinion area, but I thought I could see odd artifacts with CineMotion on either Auto 1 or Auto 2, so I keep CineMotion off..

Yea,this is what I got from it too. BUT to be fair I will try Flavius' test and settings to see if I can see what he is referring to. If he is correct, I by all means will leave it as he suggests.
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post #1185 of 4525 Old 10-25-2012, 07:05 PM
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I have a quick simple question does anyone know how to adjust the picture when using the Netflix app built into the TV? I get a "Feature not available" when I try to go to the display / settings menu.

Thanks
Vince
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post #1186 of 4525 Old 10-25-2012, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by CaneDawgg View Post

Thanks for the update.
Can you go to your 'no signal' screen and check of slight vertical bands in the middle of the screen? Its faint but I can see multiple vertical bands with the light blue background make the screen far from uniform.
Golf, soccer and hockey are very difficult to watch due to the vertical banding on my set. I'm hopeful its just my set.

Ok, now I've gone and done it. Sure enough on the "no signal" screen there's one very slight verical band in the middle of the screen. I didn't see any others, just the one. Very faint, but it's there. I did go from there to watrching golf and couldn't see it when the camera panned across the sky or the green. It's still a keeper since it can't be seen while actually watching tv. Better than anything else I've seen out there.
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post #1187 of 4525 Old 10-25-2012, 09:52 PM
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65HX950...I could not be more HAPPY! The pic is jus beautiful... The TV is beautiful! One very unnoticeable band in the center. Truly, unless my eyes were glued to the set looking for it, I would not notice it at all. No clouding. No dead pixels. If I must be bold, I would say this set is perfect. For me, anyway. Only one thing I am not happy with. Very minor. A judder issue. I'm sure certain settings will fix the issue. I will update my impressions with pics over the weekend. As far as right now, I could not be happier!

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post #1188 of 4525 Old 10-26-2012, 02:12 AM
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On a side note, is anyone having problems playing files from a USB Thumb Drive where the files were saved to it from a Mac ? I have a Mac, and made some slides, 1080p.jpg slides and saved them to a USB Thumb Drive. Plugged it into my TV, and it sees the drive, and lets me see the files, and their names and everything, BUT it says "can not display image" when I try to play them.

I then tested this with everything, Music, Video clips, Photos, etc... Same thing. Anyone else experience this, or can comment on this ?

Any help much appreciated -
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post #1189 of 4525 Old 10-26-2012, 05:18 AM
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So I found a CRITICAL setting the impacts banding.... Eco Setting - Auto Light Dimmer or whatever... I turned if off and ABSOLUTELY WOW! The difference is NIGHT and DAY!

Also, something I can't quite explain but with the Eco dimmer set to off, BANDING isn't nearly as band. While its still there, its faint and not nearly as noticeable as it was with Eco Dimmer set to on. The banding is vastly improved with the Eco Dimmer set to off. Strange... but now I'm absolutely thrilled with this TV. I finally see what every else has been talking about. Flavius settings...
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post #1190 of 4525 Old 10-26-2012, 05:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaneDawgg View Post

So I found a CRITICAL setting the impacts banding.... Eco Setting - Auto Light Dimmer or whatever... I turned if off and ABSOLUTELY WOW! The difference is NIGHT and DAY!
Also, something I can't quite explain but with the Eco dimmer set to off, BANDING isn't nearly as band. While its still there, its faint and not nearly as noticeable as it was with Eco Dimmer set to on. The banding is vastly improved with the Eco Dimmer set to off. Strange... but now I'm absolutely thrilled with this TV. I finally see what every else has been talking about. Flavius settings...

The ambient sensor should also be off.

*Sony XBR 929 & Sony XBR8-Denon 3311CI-Mirage V2 FS speakers w/S10 Sub-Oppo 93-Darbee DVP5000-Harmony 1100
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post #1191 of 4525 Old 10-26-2012, 05:43 AM
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I believe the Eco Ambient Light setting is what I'm referring to... turning that off changed my picture dramatically. Vivid, clear with minimal banding.

So much happier now.
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post #1192 of 4525 Old 10-26-2012, 05:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HaRd2BeAr View Post

This proves my point, in game mode with local dimming on standard, the dimming is not as effective as in standard/auto scene with local dimming on standard.
I wouldn't personally be happy with that much clouding, although backlight is 7 in game scene, i have mine at 2.
Aaron

So you don't have the clouding issues on standard/auto (great). Have you or anyone seen this particular clouding issue on standard/(graphics/animation/cinema/sport,etc.)? Is this only isolated to game mode? If so, why?

http://www.avsforum.com/g/a/2135446/my-ht/

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post #1193 of 4525 Old 10-26-2012, 06:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRITICALSHOT View Post

So you don't have the clouding issues on standard/auto (great). Have you or anyone seen this particular clouding issue on standard/(graphics/animation/cinema/sport,etc.)? Is this only isolated to game mode? If so, why?

I don't own a HX950, i own a 55HX850/3.

Tbh your set looks like it has rather severe clouding if those pictures are a fair reflection of what you see.

As i say the best game scene is going to show clouding the most, especially in default with LED Dynamic Control off, but even with it in Standard it doesn't dim as aggressively to reduce input lag. Your best bet is using standard scene set up to match game, but if you find the input lag to severe your only real option is to try a replacement.

For what its worth my edge lit sony doesn't look anything like that in standard game mode and as Flavius has shown, there are more uniform sets our there.

Aaron
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post #1194 of 4525 Old 10-26-2012, 09:38 AM
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Anybody else having a Judder problem? All settings of Motion Flow, including Off, have Judder. Not sure if I'm doing something wrong. It's my first Sony so its taking me a while to get the settings right. There is also Judder on your setting Rizz, even with everything turned off. Any ideas are welcome.

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post #1195 of 4525 Old 10-26-2012, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isupes View Post

Anybody else having a Judder problem? All settings of Motion Flow, including Off, have Judder. Not sure if I'm doing something wrong. It's my first Sony so its taking me a while to get the settings right. There is also Judder on your setting Rizz, even with everything turned off. Any ideas are welcome.

Glad you got a good set like I did, isupes! Set MotionFlow Standard and the Cinema Setting on Auto 1. Yes, technically this produces SLIGHTLY more judder than a Samsung with AMP on Low, but it also produces less artifacts in games AND less of the dreaded "soap opera effect" while still eliminating 90% of distracting judder and blur IMHO.

You can get some disgusting looking judder free Soap Opera Effect on this TV by setting the MotionFlow to Smooth and the Cinema to Auto 2, I believe. But that introduces motion artifacts, especially in games. MotionFlow and Cinema setting work hand in hand and NOT just for movies, but all content. MotionFlow ON but Cinema OFF is NERFED. Experiment like I did!

Of course there is judder on Rizz settings because he turns off all the anti-judder tech! wink.gif
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post #1196 of 4525 Old 10-26-2012, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HaRd2BeAr View Post

As i say the best game scene is going to show clouding the most, especially in default with LED Dynamic Control off, but even with it in Standard it doesn't dim as aggressively to reduce input lag. Your best bet is using standard scene set up to match game, but if you find the input lag to severe your only real option is to try a replacement.

What he should do is set his TV to Game mode and then use all my applicable settings that I listed for General mode. And the clouds should 99% disappear. What I found very interesting is that NOTHING you can do in Game mode to the settings affects lag. It is very consistent. Besides, clouding is most of an issue for BluRays, esepcially 2.35:1 ratio ones, and you'd use General for that, not Game.
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post #1197 of 4525 Old 10-26-2012, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by CaneDawgg View Post

I believe the Eco Ambient Light setting is what I'm referring to... turning that off changed my picture dramatically. Vivid, clear with minimal banding.
So much happier now.

Hence my settings said all ECO settings off since page 32 wink.gif Glad you are happier now!
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post #1198 of 4525 Old 10-26-2012, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flavius View Post

Glad you got a good set like I did, isupes! Set MotionFlow Standard and the Cinema Setting on Auto 1. Yes, technically this produces SLIGHTLY more judder than a Samsung with AMP on Low, but it also produces less artifacts in games AND less of the dreaded "soap opera effect" while still eliminating 90% of distracting judder and blur IMHO.
You can get some disgusting looking judder free Soap Opera Effect on this TV by setting the MotionFlow to Smooth and the Cinema to Auto 2, I believe. But that introduces motion artifacts, especially in games. MotionFlow and Cinema setting work hand in hand and NOT just for movies, but all content. MotionFlow ON but Cinema OFF is NERFED. Experiment like I did!
Of course there is judder on Rizz settings because he turns off all the anti-judder tech! wink.gif

Will do. Thanks. I've been in the settings more than I've watching what is actually playing. Trying to get it just right. If i could just eliminate the judder, this thing will be perfect.

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post #1199 of 4525 Old 10-26-2012, 10:45 AM
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Hence my settings said all ECO settings off since page 32 wink.gif Glad you are happier now!

Yes, I was using your settings. I thought I had all the Eco settings turned off... I did except for one very important setting... the Ambient Light.

Wow, what a difference.
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post #1200 of 4525 Old 10-26-2012, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flavius View Post

What he should do is set his TV to Game mode and then use all my applicable settings that I listed for General mode. And the clouds should 99% disappear. What I found very interesting is that NOTHING you can do in Game mode to the settings affects lag. It is very consistent. Besides, clouding is most of an issue for BluRays, esepcially 2.35:1 ratio ones, and you'd use General for that, not Game.

The problem is though, his set looks pretty patchy. Local dimming in game mode isnt that good.

Aaron
HaRd2BeAr is offline  
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