Sony XBR-HX950 Settings Thread - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 105 Old 10-25-2012, 03:32 PM - Thread Starter
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PICTURE ADJUSTMENTS

Settings for 2D Day Viewing:

Scene Mode: General

Picture Mode: Standard
Backlight: 7
Picture: 84
Brightness: 50
Color: 53
Hue: Default
Color Temperature: Warm 2
Sharpness: 50
Noise Reduction: Off
MPEG NoiseReduction: Off
Dot Noise Reduction: Off
Reality Creation: Off
Smooth Gradation: High
MotionFlow: Clear Plus
CineMotion: Auto 1
Advanced Settings
Black Corrector: Off
Advanced
Contrast Enhancer: Off
Gamma: +1
LED Dynamic Control Standard
Auto Light Limiter: Off
Clear White: Off
Live Color: Off
White Balance:
Red Gain: -6
Green Gain: -2
Blue Gain: 0
Red Bias: -1
Green Bias: -1
Blue Bias: -1
Detail Enhancer Off
Edge Enhancer Off
Skin Naturalizer Off
i/p Conversion Preference ---*

Sub Section Menus

Ambient Sensor: > Off

Screen:
Display Area: > Full Pixel

Pro Picture Set-Up

Color Matrix: > Auto

HDMI Dynamic Range: > Auto

SBM: > On

Everything in Eco settings set to off

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post #2 of 105 Old 10-25-2012, 04:23 PM
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Well, if you're experimenting; how about some CNET settings for the 55" 929...
Related products:
XBR-46HX929
XBR-65HX929

Calibration report using these settings:
http://www.scribd.com/doc/59384677/Sony-XBR-55HX929-CNET-review-calibration-results

Below you'll find the settings we found best for viewing the Sony XBR-55HX929 in a dim room via the HDMI input at 1080p/24 resolution. Your settings may vary depending on source, room conditions, and personal preference. Check out the Picture settings and calibration FAQ for more information.
http://news.cnet.com/8301-17938_105-9996461-1.html

Home menu>Settings>Picture & Display

--Picture Adjustments menu--
Setting Memory: [any]
Picture Mode: Custom
Backlight: 1
Picture: 90
Brightness: 52
Color: 50
Hue: 0
Color Temperature: Warm 2
Sharpness: 50
Noise Reduction: Off
MPEG Noise Reduction: Off
Dot noise reduction: Off
Reality Creation: Off
Smooth Gradation: Low
Motionflow: Off
CineMotion: Off

-Advanced Settings submenu-
Black Corrector: Off
Adv. Contrast Enhancer: Off
Gamma: +1
LED Dynamic Control: Standard
Auto Light Limiter: Off
Clear White: Off
Live Color: Off
White Balance: [see below]
Detail Enhancer: Off
Edge Enhancer: Off
Skin Naturalizer: Off [grayed out]
i/p Conversion Preference: Quality [grayed out]

-White Balance submenu-
R-Gain: -5
G-Gain: -1
B-Gain: -6
R-Bias: 0
G-Bias: 0
B-Bias: 0

Ambient Sensor: Off

--Screen menu--
Setting Memory: [any]
Wide Mode: Full
Auto Wide: Off
4:3 Default: Off [grayed out]
Auto Display Area: Off
Display Area: Full Pixel
Screen Position: [grayed out]
Vertical Size: 0 [grayed out]

--Pro Picture Setup menu--
[all settings default/Auto]

--Home Menu>Settings>Preferences--

--Scene Select menu--
General

--Eco menu--
Power Saving: Off
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post #3 of 105 Old 10-25-2012, 04:59 PM
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These are my preferred settings that I find suitable for ALL content, DAY AND NIGHT. Set it and forget it. Settings also apply to 3D and Game mode unless otherwise noted. The TV remembers your different settings for 3D General, so these are truly set it and forget it settings.

Scene Mode: General
Picture Mode: Standard
Backlight: 5
Picture: Max (but reduce to 85 or even 60 for 3D content to help with crosstalk)
Brightness: 52
Color: 60
Hue: 0
Color Temperature: Neutral
Sharpness: 65
Noise Reduction: Off
MPEG Noise Reduction: Off
Dot Noise Reduction: Off
Reality Creation: Manual with Resolution 20 and Noise Filering Min OR Off, based on preference.
Smooth Gradation: Medium <-- amazing for gradients!
MotionFlow: Standard
CineMotion: Auto 1 <--- these two settings give best judder elimination without fake SOE look, and no artifacts in games either!
Black Corrector: Off
Advanced Contrast Enhancer: OFF for 2D content. LOW for 3D content to help with 3D pop AND reduce crosstalk!
Gamma: 0
LED Dynamic Control: Standard
Auto Light Limiter: Off
Clear White: Off (or Low if you don't mind bluish whites in some cases)
Live Color: Off
White Balance: Defaults EXCEPT set G-Gain to -6 to reduce the overly greenish yellow skin tones on people on TV. Does not affect green intensity.
Detail Enhancer: Medium
Edge Enhancer: Off
Skin Naturalizer: Off
Display Area: FULL PIXEL change it to this as soon as you get your TV!
ALL ECO SETTINGS OFF
HDMI Dynamic Range: Auto
Color Matrix: Auto
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post #4 of 105 Old 10-25-2012, 05:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy S View Post

Well, if you're experimenting; how about some CNET settings for the 55" 929...
Related products:
XBR-46HX929
XBR-65HX929

Calibration report using these settings:
http://scr.bi/mjVqMZ

This link didn't work...

http://www.avsforum.com/g/a/2135446/my-ht/

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post #5 of 105 Old 10-25-2012, 06:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Flavius I have read every post on the owners thread and know you are very concerned with crosstalk. If the source has crosstalk, the end result will be crosstalk on the display. I can't seem to find the review of Hugo that detailed and time stamped each instance of crosstalk in that Blu Ray. I see that you made some interesting tweaks in your settengs regarding crosstalk and I am very interested in giving it a go. When I owned the Panasonic VT50; the only effective way of dealing with crosstalk was changing from 60hz to 48hz.

I also know that 3D gaming is very important to you. You do know that pretty much every PS3 and 360 game I have experienced in not Full HD 3D. It is usually side by side and thus it takes a hit in resolution. I don't know how correct this next statement is, but it is related to my previous statement. My Engineer/Teacher friend said "if you had a 1080p side by side MKV; you would basically end up with two images at 540p." The end result from my observations with the above material, was that I was looking at a sub 720p image. The image quality I saw on multiple SBS 3D movies was deplorable and would make my TV vomit if it had a mouth.

Crap in = Crap out!

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post #6 of 105 Old 10-25-2012, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRITICALSHOT View Post

Flavius I have read every post on the owners thread and know you are very concerned with crosstalk. If the source has crosstalk, the end result will be crosstalk on the display. I can't seem to find the review of Hugo that detailed and time stamped each instance of crosstalk in that Blu Ray. I see that you made some interesting tweaks in your settengs regarding crosstalk and I am very interested in giving it a go. When I owned the Panasonic VT50; the only effective way of dealing with crosstalk was changing from 60hz to 48hz.
I also know that 3D gaming is very important to you. You do know that pretty much every PS3 and 360 game I have experienced in not Full HD 3D. It is usually side by side and thus it takes a hit in resolution. I don't know how correct this next statement is, but it is related to my previous statement. My Engineer/Teacher friend said "if you had a 1080p side by side MKV; you would basically end up with two images at 540p." The end result from my observations with the above material, was that I was looking at a sub 720p image. The image quality I saw on multiple SBS 3D movies was deplorable and would make my TV vomit if it had a mouth.
Crap in = Crap out!

No, most of the 3D games I'm interested are native Frame Packed, but yes they do take resolution hits in that they're all forced to 720p60 with 30Hz per eye. You almost always lose some res or PQ going to 3D in games, but that doesn't mean its not native and FP. Some older 3D games on Xbox are SBS only. But newer ones are FP native like Halo CE, as are all PS3 3D games. SBS games means I'd have to set the 3D TV to 3D mode manually and pick SBS mode. No PS3 3D game makes you do this, its all native support and FP. On 360, Gears 3 still forces you to do this, but Halo CE does not.

Also, your statement that "if the source has crosstalk" is absolutely false. The source never has crosstalk. Crosstalk is always caused by limitations of the display, glasses, bad contrast ratios, or some other factor. It is impossible for SOURCE MATERIAL to have crosstalk.
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post #7 of 105 Old 10-25-2012, 07:21 PM - Thread Starter
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If it is impossible for source material to have crosstalk, why do certain movies have almost no discernable crosstalk? I remember that you only saw one full 3D movie as of late as per a post on the owners thread. Is it not possible that in the production process for something to go awry?

I know that some games are and some game are not SBS. I obviously was referring to the games that are, YES you are interested in some SBS games as you made mention of GOW 3. Don't forget about games like Sine Mora and Dishwasher Vampire Smile (If I remember correctly, 1 or both are SBS). What was Batman AC or Black Ops?

Have you thought of upgrading your player? Do you run your HDMI through a receiver? What cables do you use?

http://www.avsforum.com/g/a/2135446/my-ht/

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post #8 of 105 Old 10-26-2012, 06:41 AM
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I really like Flavius settings... Jimbunker had good settings as well and he posted his settings on page 9 of the Official hx950 forum. I'm going back in forth between the two.

I find it curious people turn off Black Enhancer and Advanced Contrast Enhancer. I feel the Sony does a really good job with both of these settings and I have mine set to Medium for both. Looks really good.
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post #9 of 105 Old 10-26-2012, 06:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flavius View Post

These are my preferred settings that I find suitable for ALL content, DAY AND NIGHT. Set it and forget it. Settings also apply to 3D and Game mode unless otherwise noted. The TV remembers your different settings for 3D General, so these are truly set it and forget it settings.
Scene Mode: General
Picture Mode: Standard
Backlight: 5
Picture: Max (but reduce to 85 or even 60 for 3D content to help with crosstalk)
Brightness: 52
Color: 60
Hue: 0
Color Temperature: Neutral
Sharpness: Max
Noise Reduction: Off
MPEG Noise Reduction: Off
Dot Noise Reduction: Off
Reality Creation: Manual with Resolution 20 and Noise Filering Min OR Off, based on preference.
Smooth Gradation: Medium <-- amazing for gradients!
MotionFlow: Standard
CineMotion: Auto 1 <--- these two settings give best judder elimination without fake SOE look, and no artifacts in games either!
Black Corrector: Off
Advanced Contrast Enhancer: OFF for 2D content. LOW for 3D content to help with 3D pop AND reduce crosstalk!
Gamma: 0
LED Dynamic Control: Standard
Auto Light Limiter: Off
Clear White: Off (or Low if you don't mind bluish whites in some cases)
Live Color: Off
White Balance: Defaults EXCEPT set G-Gain to -6 to reduce the overly greenish yellow skin tones on people on TV. Does not affect green intensity.
Detail Enhancer: Medium
Edge Enhancer: Off
Skin Naturalizer: Off
Display Area: FULL PIXEL change it to this as soon as you get your TV!
ALL ECO SETTINGS OFF
HDMI Dynamic Range: Auto
Color Matrix: Auto

Where is the "Display Area:" setting?? I cant' seem to find it anywhere... Is it WIDE FULL?
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post #10 of 105 Old 10-26-2012, 07:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaneDawgg View Post

Where is the "Display Area:" setting?? I cant' seem to find it anywhere... Is it WIDE FULL?

Press Home

Go to Settings

Go to Picture & Display

Go to Screen


Leave wide mode on full

Cut off all auto settings

Put display area on full pixel

Put setting memory on common (I believe this will make full pixel default across all inputs)

http://www.avsforum.com/g/a/2135446/my-ht/

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post #11 of 105 Old 10-26-2012, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaneDawgg View Post

I really like Flavius settings... Jimbunker had good settings as well and he posted his settings on page 9 of the Official hx950 forum. I'm going back in forth between the two.
I find it curious people turn off Black Enhancer and Advanced Contrast Enhancer. I feel the Sony does a really good job with both of these settings and I have mine set to Medium for both. Looks really good.

Black Enhancer kills too much shadow detail for my liking. And Contrast Enhancer, while nice on Low, results in unrealistic bright spots in the image. Take the WOW BluRay test disc and play the scene from Pirates of Carribean with the girl in the jail cell talking to captain squidface. With Advanced Contrast even on Low, you get some VERY unnatural bright highlights on her face. Off looks very good though, and ACE is definitely needed for 3D to help with crosstalk I've found.
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post #12 of 105 Old 10-26-2012, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRITICALSHOT View Post

If it is impossible for source material to have crosstalk, why do certain movies have almost no discernable crosstalk?

Because of the way the 3D is encoded. To minimize crosstalk, 3D movies try to minimize contrast differences. Look it up. Also, some movies are less prone to crosstalk for other reasons, like the nature of what is being displayed. The point I'm trying to make is, if the 3D display technology were perfect, NO existing 3D movie would show crosstalk. None. If the crosstalk was in the source material, different 3D TVs would all show the same crosstalk and that is simply not the case. Plasmas for example, tend to show less crosstalk than LCDs on the same material because they can decay their pixels much faster. Crosstalk is caused by a limitation of the 3D display technology. No one making a 3D movie puts it or leaves it in there on purpose. Someone back me up here?
Quote:
Originally Posted by CRITICALSHOT View Post


I remember that you only saw one full 3D movie as of late as per a post on the owners thread.

Not true, I've tested several 3D movies including Avatar, Avengers, and Open Season, and I now have others like Hugo to test with too. The problem is not really with movies. It is with games, because they have so many more high contrast areas and aren't coded for 3D as elegantly in many cases. The only scene in a 3D movie so far where I thought the crosstalk was as bad a some games is the scene in Avatar where the aliens are speaking and you get yellow subtitles on a dark background. It's crosstalk central.

By the way, actual SBS 3D games are probably not worth bothering with. The only non-native SBS 3D games I have tried so far are Assassin's Creed and Gears 3. But the picture quality and resolution suffers so badly on those titles that I don't see myself playing in 3D. Now 3D in Batman AC, a native game, is not as crosstalk prone as some games like Halo CE and Doom 3, because the Batman game is not high contrast, it is for the most part black on black, gray on black with brighter highlights. So because of that, crosstalk is far less visible. It also doesn't reduce the PQ nearly as much as the previous examples. PS3 games tend to fare best with 3D, likely because Sony was the 3D gaming champion this generation and really tried to promote it. and give the best developer support for it. Because they sell 3D TVs no doubt whereas the other console makers don't. The 360 didn't even have the ability to run a native 3D game (no SBS or 3D button required) until about a year ago, way after the PS3.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CRITICALSHOT View Post


Have you thought of upgrading your player? Do you run your HDMI through a receiver? What cables do you use?

I appreciate your attempts to help, but come on man, of course I run HDMI through the latest Sony ES 3D capable receiver and use high speed cables, new ones. And I'm using a PS3 for a player with latest firmware. It's not the player. The Xbox 360 has the same crosstalk issues in a native game like Halo CE. Already tried different cables and bypassing the receiver. No difference. And tried several brand of 3D glasses. No difference. The only thing that helps with crosstalk on this TV is reducing the Picture setting.

Didn't you read my post where I compare the crosstalk amount with those special SBS test images and compare my results to samples from existing TVs before and after messing with Picture? And my posts indicating the crosstalk level of this TV is so much worse because of the insanely good contrast it has? The same posts that point to engineering research papers on contrast ration and its effect on crosstalk? This was evident even on the Samsung set I tested in the same situation, except it had less crosstalk because the TV was incapable of anything near the contrast ratio of the Sony. Now when I say "less crosstalk" on the Samsung the physical amount is the same, I should say the "visibility" of the crosstalk. Basically FAINT, vs NOT FAINT.

The higher the contrast between the 3D object and the background, the worst the crosstalk. That's why the Picture setting on the Sony, which is a contrast setting, is the main thing that works. Edge lit sets seems to be better than backlit sets for 3D because their screen more like... diffusely glows and they have poorer contrast by default. But the contrast is more stark on a backlit LED because the lights are coming from behind the screen. So in a high contrast area, you'd have LED off right next to LEDs that are ON, which exagerrates contrast and therefore crosstalk. Even with local dimming off, it is still a problem, the contrast is still too high thanks to the backlit nature. Plasmas get around this even with great contrast because of ultra fast pixel decay. The image for one eye can almost completely disappear before the shutter in the glasses has to open. By the way, we should probably have had this discussion in the main thread.
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post #13 of 105 Old 10-28-2012, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flavius View Post

Scene Mode: General
Picture Mode: Standard
Backlight: 5
Picture: Max (but reduce to 85 or even 60 for 3D content to help with crosstalk)
Brightness: 52
Color: 60
Hue: 0
Color Temperature: Neutral
Sharpness: Max
Noise Reduction: Off
MPEG Noise Reduction: Off
Dot Noise Reduction: Off
Reality Creation: Manual with Resolution 20 and Noise Filering Min OR Off, based on preference.
Smooth Gradation: Medium <-- amazing for gradients!
MotionFlow: Standard
CineMotion: Auto 1 <--- these two settings give best judder elimination without fake SOE look, and no artifacts in games either!
Black Corrector: Off
Advanced Contrast Enhancer: OFF for 2D content. LOW for 3D content to help with 3D pop AND reduce crosstalk!
Gamma: 0
LED Dynamic Control: Standard
Auto Light Limiter: Off
Clear White: Off (or Low if you don't mind bluish whites in some cases)
Live Color: Off
White Balance: Defaults EXCEPT set G-Gain to -6 to reduce the overly greenish yellow skin tones on people on TV. Does not affect green intensity.
Detail Enhancer: Medium
Edge Enhancer: Off
Skin Naturalizer: Off
Display Area: FULL PIXEL change it to this as soon as you get your TV!
ALL ECO SETTINGS OFF
HDMI Dynamic Range: Auto
Color Matrix: Auto
Flavius, thanks so much for these settings ! I tried everybody's and your's was THE BEST by far ! I would say almost perfect for me and ALL content. But I did make a few adjustments that I feel made it better for me personally. But I would have never been able to do it without yours as a starting point. And the adjustments I made are very minute.

I wonder if maybe my eyes perceive things differently than yours slightly ? OR if the difference is in our TV's not representing the exact same thing even though they are the same TV ?

Anyway, to help anyone else that might like my tweaks a touch better, or maybe so you can try them to see if it helps you on some content, I thought I would post them here.

1st off,,,, strangely, you were right about MotionFlow, and Cinemotion. I liked both those things OFF before. AND honestly, calibrating the TV with Spears and Munsil HD Benchmark, even there under the corresponding tests for such (motion blur, etc..) to have both them things OFF made it perform best. So thats why I originally said that. BUT under real life content movies, you are totally right man !!! With them off, there were some jerky pans, etc... With your settings, WOW ! Perfect. So I wanted to tell you that.

Also, I want to point out to everyone, that for me, to get the best picture, there needs to be SLIGHT changes made in ONLY 2 settings for every different movie, animation, game, etc.. BUT these settings are the best go to start point, and then ONLY change 2 settings pending on content.

The biggest difference in my settings from yours is "Sharpness". From what I see in ALL content if I use Sharpness at "Max" like you do, I see bad "Edge Artifacts". Unless our TV's are different and/or eyes are, I can't see how you can't see that ? Or am I trippin ? The next thing was Color. At 60 like you do I see slight color clipping and/or extremes. Especially in Reds. I like mine at 56 for all content.

Try these settings and let me know what you think. (again though, judge the content being used and tweak accordingly as I suggest for the 2 "movable settings") BOLD is the changes. My settings are tested ONLY on 2D content, cause thats all I watch or care about.

Scene Mode: General
Picture Mode: Standard
Backlight: 5
Picture: Max
Brightness: 53 (when Gamma is on -2), 52 (when Gamma is set to 0)
Color: 56 (for most content), 60 (for some content)
Hue: 0
Color Temperature: Neutral
Sharpness: 24-36 (for Games and Computer), 50 (for everything else) - Above 50 = Edge Artifacting, and just gets worse as you go higher.
Noise Reduction: Off
MPEG Noise Reduction: Off
Dot Noise Reduction: Off
Reality Creation: Manual with Resolution 20 and Noise Filering Min OR Off, based on preference. (Sometimes Resolution at 10 looks better for some video games)
Smooth Gradation: Medium
MotionFlow: Standard
CineMotion: Auto 1 (for nearly all movies and most games), OFF (for some video games)
Black Corrector: Off
Advanced Contrast Enhancer: OFF
Gamma: -2 (for most movies and/or normal content) , 0 (for darker movies and/or content) (when set to 0, put "Brightness" to 52)
LED Dynamic Control: Standard
Auto Light Limiter: Off
Clear White: Off
Live Color: Off
White Balance: R-Gain: -2, G-Gain: -6, B-Gain 0, R-Bias -2, G-Bias 0, B-Bias 0
Detail Enhancer: Medium
Edge Enhancer: Off
Skin Naturalizer: Off
Display Area: FULL PIXEL
ALL ECO SETTINGS OFF
HDMI Dynamic Range: Auto
Color Matrix: Auto

Try those out and let me know what you think. :-) I swear if dialed in the right way for the right content, it creates a slightly more rich, more honest looking picture to me. I will try to take screen shots of examples between the two so you can see. Maybe it is just my set ? lol IDK.


2 things you didn't mention and I wanted to ask you about.... What exactly is "Video Area Detection" and "Super Bit Mapping" ? And what do you have them set to, and why ?

Hope these settings help someone :-D I'm loving them
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post #14 of 105 Old 10-30-2012, 09:23 AM
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About the Sharpness. I agree with you. In fact, the other day I did notice some nasty artifacting on text, so I lowered Sharpness to about 60 and its much better. I think I also lowered Detail Enhancer to Low to help with the text. The rest of your settings may be good, I'd have to check, but I don't agree with your Gamma as I'm sure that will just crush blacks/shadow detail in most movies even with the higher brightness. But again, all this stuff is going to vary based on your source devices, etc.

Thanks for the compliments! smile.gif And sadly I have no idea what those other settings do.
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post #15 of 105 Old 10-30-2012, 02:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flavius View Post

About the Sharpness. I agree with you. In fact, the other day I did notice some nasty artifacting on text, so I lowered Sharpness to about 60 and its much better. I think I also lowered Detail Enhancer to Low to help with the text. The rest of your settings may be good, I'd have to check, but I don't agree with your Gamma as I'm sure that will just crush blacks/shadow detail in most movies even with the higher brightness. But again, all this stuff is going to vary based on your source devices, etc.

Thanks for the compliments! smile.gif And sadly I have no idea what those other settings do.

Cool, glad to help.

Yea, I guess as far as shadows and blacks, we could see things differently. Or like you said, the sources, etc.. For me, I like a honest, rich look. Whereas some prefer a more exaggerated "toony" look.

If honest and rich is more your taste, Gamma at -2 (therefore brightness to 53), causes scenes where there is a very dark area, and a very bright area in the same shot to look more defined and realistic to me. I found with Gamma at 0, the shadows had too much grey in them. Looked cloudy, etc.. Reducing the Gamma fixes this, then upping the brightness a notch makes the colors and lighted areas pop back out perfectly, not too much, while still keeping the blacks black and shadows realistic. IMO of course.

Again though, I must point out, this does cause for adjustment from movie to movie and source to source. Gamma at 0 is just safe for all. But to get things perfect, I do not mind adjusting them 2 things real quickly to cater to the content. Everyones miles may vary of course.
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post #16 of 105 Old 10-31-2012, 05:54 AM
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Cool, glad to help.
Yea, I guess as far as shadows and blacks, we could see things differently. Or like you said, the sources, etc.. For me, I like a honest, rich look. Whereas some prefer a more exaggerated "toony" look.
If honest and rich is more your taste, Gamma at -2 (therefore brightness to 53), causes scenes where there is a very dark area, and a very bright area in the same shot to look more defined and realistic to me. I found with Gamma at 0, the shadows had too much grey in them. Looked cloudy, etc.. Reducing the Gamma fixes this, then upping the brightness a notch makes the colors and lighted areas pop back out perfectly, not too much, while still keeping the blacks black and shadows realistic. IMO of course.
Again though, I must point out, this does cause for adjustment from movie to movie and source to source. Gamma at 0 is just safe for all. But to get things perfect, I do not mind adjusting them 2 things real quickly to cater to the content. Everyones miles may vary of course.

You hit the bulls-eye with the Brightness at 53 and Gamma at -2. These settings combined with Flavius and sharpness at 65 and this TV is absolutely ON POINT!

No more adjustments for me.
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Originally Posted by JoelxD View Post


2 things you didn't mention and I wanted to ask you about.... What exactly is "Video Area Detection" and "Super Bit Mapping" ? And what do you have them set to, and why ?
Hope these settings help someone :-D I'm loving them

I have the same question.

http://www.avsforum.com/g/a/2135446/my-ht/

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Sony SBM - Super Bit Mapping - is audio related
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Super_Bit_Mapping

Video Area Detection is web related. Surf the internet and check out what it does smile.gif

btw Display Area FULL is 1080p/i related so don't use that setting when watching SD (Lets just say that SD will look a bit different when Display Area is set to FULL). Best thing to do is set it to Auto.


Check out this thread. The hx909 has a lot in common with the hx929/hx950. Doug is a expert wink.gif
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1261223/sony-2010-xbr-xxhx909-settings-discussion
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Actually I'm pretty sure the Super Bit Mapping is video related as an additional chip responsible for 14-bit processing to reverse the degenerating of digitization and compression. This was first used in Sony blurays.

Check it out: http://www.sony.net/SonyInfo/technology/technology/theme/creas_01.html#block3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8mile13 View Post

Sony SBM - Super Bit Mapping - is audio related
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Super_Bit_Mapping

Video Area Detection is web related. Surf the internet and check out what it does smile.gif

btw Display Area FULL is 1080p/i related so don't use that setting when watching SD (Lets just say that SD will look a bit different when Display Area is set to FULL). Best thing to do is set it to Auto.


Check out this thread. The hx909 has a lot in common with the hx929/hx950. Doug is a expert wink.gif
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1261223/sony-2010-xbr-xxhx909-settings-discussion

Thanks for the info and links 8mile13

I knew that for the Audio Side of SBM... but since this is in the PICTURE Settings and in the setting specifically says "creates smooth video graduations using SBM", then what I was figuring was it is a version of the audio SBM but in the video realm. Sony style - lol. BUT still nowhere is it completely specific on what it is exactly, and what is it exactly doing to the picture. Anyway, so unfortunately, I do believe you may be wrong about it being the audio SBM.
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right, it is probably video related:
Super Bit Mapping (video) incorporates 14 bit up-scaling, processing and pixel mapping to smooth gradation and improve the quality of low-tone pictures.
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post #22 of 105 Old 11-10-2012, 04:27 PM
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Are there any professional calibrated settings anywhere. Sorry, but sharpness on "Max" and "Neutral" color temp may excite the masses but I
m looking for some accurate color settings. The lack of CMS and ISF on this set is very disapointing for 5 big ones :-)

bob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spongebob View Post

Are there any professional calibrated settings anywhere. Sorry, but sharpness on "Max" and "Neutral" color temp may excite the masses but I
m looking for some accurate color settings. The lack of CMS and ISF on this set is very disapointing for 5 big ones :-)
bob

Hey now, upon further reflection, Sharpness is best at 65. The sharpness is very subtle on this set anyway compared to most TVs. And Neutral, well I'm sorry but both myself and my graphic artist wife think Neutral gives the most accurate color. I'm NOT the "the masses", I'm very discerning. mad.gif If you're snobby about the CMS/ISF/THX junk, you need to buy a VT50 or Elite. Sorry. You should also know if you care about that stuff that professional calibrated settings on one TV aren't going to be accurate on any other TV. And people who get pro calibrations never want to give them out anyway.
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post #24 of 105 Old 11-20-2012, 07:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Sony XBR-55HX950 picture settings
by katzmaier - 11/19/12 11:48 AM
Review:
http://reviews.cnet.com/flat-panel-tvs/sony-xbr-55hx950/4505-6482_7-35431205.html

Related products:
Sony XBR-65HX929

Calibration report using these settings: http://*******/WtUDJw

Below you'll find the settings I found best for viewing the Sony XBR-55HX950 in a dark room via the HDMI input. Your settings may vary depending on source, room conditions, and personal preference. Check out the Picture settings and calibration FAQ for more information.
http://news.cnet.com/8301-17938_105-9996461-1.html

Calibration notes: I measured four different picture modes, Standard, Cinema 1, Cinema 2 and Custom to determine which was the best prior to any adjustment. Aside from Custom, three engaged local dimming (LED Dynamic Control: Standard) but offered different light output levels, color temperatures and/or MotionFlow settings. I threw out Custom since it didn't employ local dimming by default, and eliminated Standard because it engaged MotionFlow by default. Between the two Cinema modes Cinema 1 ended up "winning" since it disabled dejudder (smoothing) and showed improved gamma over Cinema 2.

In an earlier version of these notes I reported that many of the modes were too dim. In fact that was because I had mistakenly left the TV's ambient light sensor engaged in my dark room, which limited the TVs light output. I turned off the sensor (which is turned on by default, even in the Cinema modes where it shouldn't be) for my follow-up re-calibration, so the settings below reflect the correct position "Off" of the ambient light sensor. I also updated the calibration report linked above.

The XBR-HX950's calibration was more a matter of minor tweaking due to Sony's relatively sparse controls. Its main problem was a slightly minus-green grayscale, which was almost laughably easy to fix. After calibration the grayscale was nearly perfect and other performance characteristics were as good as I expect from a high-end TV, with the exception of blue luminance (hardly a deal-breaker).

--Picture Adjustments menu--
Setting Memory: [any]
Picture Mode: Custom
Backlight: Min
Picture: 95
Brightness: 50
Color: 51
Hue: 0
Color Temperature: Warm 2
Sharpness: 50
Noise Reduction: Off
MPEG Noise Reduction: Off
Dot noise reduction: Off
Reality Creation: Off
Smooth Gradation: Low
Motionflow: Off
CineMotion: Auto 2

-Advanced Settings submenu-
Black Corrector: Off
Adv. Contrast Enhancer: Off
Gamma: 0
LED Dynamic Control: Standard
Auto Light Limiter: Off
Clear White: Off
Live Color: Off
White Balance: [see below]
Detail Enhancer: Off
Edge Enhancer: Off
Skin Naturalizer: Off [grayed out]
i/p Conversion Preference: Quality [grayed out]

-White Balance submenu-
R-Gain: -2
G-Gain: 0
B-Gain: -2
R-Bias: 0
G-Bias: 0
B-Bias: 0

Ambient Sensor: Off

--Screen menu--
Setting Memory: [any]
Wide Mode: Full
Auto Wide: Off
4:3 Default: Off [grayed out]
Auto Display Area: Off
Display Area: Full Pixel
Screen Position: [grayed out]
Vertical Size: 0 [grayed out]

--Pro Picture Setup menu--
[all settings default/Auto]

--Home Menu>Settings>Preferences--

--Scene Select menu--
General

--Eco menu--
Power Saving: Off
Light Sensor: Off

Note: This post was edited by its original author Revised settings and calibration notes to correct mistake of ambient light sensor being engaged. on 11/20/2012 at 9:54 AM PT

http://www.avsforum.com/g/a/2135446/my-ht/

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post #25 of 105 Old 11-21-2012, 08:20 PM - Thread Starter
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WHAT DOES THE WRONG PICTURE LOOK LIKE? Worth a read...


http://www.flatpanelshd.com/focus.php?subaction=showfull&id=1328263571

http://www.avsforum.com/g/a/2135446/my-ht/

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So for overall 2d picture quality has anybody seen a difference between the 65hx929 and 65hx950?

Also, when using the same exact settings what picture mode do you guys prefer under general scene, custom or standard?

Seems to me that standard still looks sharper than custom with the same settings. Must be doing more background processing to give it more detail but not too sure on this.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hdfanboy444 View Post

So for overall 2d picture quality has anybody seen a difference between the 65hx929 and 65hx950?
Also, when using the same exact settings what picture mode do you guys prefer under general scene, custom or standard?
Seems to me that standard still looks sharper than custom with the same settings. Must be doing more background processing to give it more detail but not too sure on this.

That's interesting as to the diffs btwn standard and custom. In the CNET review he choose custom for diff reasons; I would love to hear others opinions on this subject.

http://www.avsforum.com/g/a/2135446/my-ht/

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hdfanboy444 View Post

Also, when using the same exact settings what picture mode do you guys prefer under general scene, custom or standard?
Seems to me that standard still looks sharper than custom with the same settings. Must be doing more background processing to give it more detail but not too sure on this.

I prefer std because it does look sharper, brighter, less dull and more natural than custom with same settings.
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Originally Posted by CRITICALSHOT View Post

Sony XBR-55HX950 picture settings
by katzmaier - 11/19/12 11:48 AM
Review:
http://reviews.cnet.com/flat-panel-tvs/sony-xbr-55hx950/4505-6482_7-35431205.html
Related products:
Sony XBR-65HX929
Calibration report using these settings: http://*******/WtUDJw
Below you'll find the settings I found best for viewing the Sony XBR-55HX950 in a dark room via the HDMI input. Your settings may vary depending on source, room conditions, and personal preference. Check out the Picture settings and calibration FAQ for more information.
http://news.cnet.com/8301-17938_105-9996461-1.html
Calibration notes: I measured four different picture modes, Standard, Cinema 1, Cinema 2 and Custom to determine which was the best prior to any adjustment. Aside from Custom, three engaged local dimming (LED Dynamic Control: Standard) but offered different light output levels, color temperatures and/or MotionFlow settings. I threw out Custom since it didn't employ local dimming by default, and eliminated Standard because it engaged MotionFlow by default. Between the two Cinema modes Cinema 1 ended up "winning" since it disabled dejudder (smoothing) and showed improved gamma over Cinema 2.
In an earlier version of these notes I reported that many of the modes were too dim. In fact that was because I had mistakenly left the TV's ambient light sensor engaged in my dark room, which limited the TVs light output. I turned off the sensor (which is turned on by default, even in the Cinema modes where it shouldn't be) for my follow-up re-calibration, so the settings below reflect the correct position "Off" of the ambient light sensor. I also updated the calibration report linked above.
The XBR-HX950's calibration was more a matter of minor tweaking due to Sony's relatively sparse controls. Its main problem was a slightly minus-green grayscale, which was almost laughably easy to fix. After calibration the grayscale was nearly perfect and other performance characteristics were as good as I expect from a high-end TV, with the exception of blue luminance (hardly a deal-breaker).
--Picture Adjustments menu--
Setting Memory: [any]
Picture Mode: Custom
Backlight: Min
Picture: 95
Brightness: 50
Color: 51
Hue: 0
Color Temperature: Warm 2
Sharpness: 50
Noise Reduction: Off
MPEG Noise Reduction: Off
Dot noise reduction: Off
Reality Creation: Off
Smooth Gradation: Low
Motionflow: Off
CineMotion: Auto 2
-Advanced Settings submenu-
Black Corrector: Off
Adv. Contrast Enhancer: Off
Gamma: 0
LED Dynamic Control: Standard
Auto Light Limiter: Off
Clear White: Off
Live Color: Off
White Balance: [see below]
Detail Enhancer: Off
Edge Enhancer: Off
Skin Naturalizer: Off [grayed out]
i/p Conversion Preference: Quality [grayed out]
-White Balance submenu-
R-Gain: -2
G-Gain: 0
B-Gain: -2
R-Bias: 0
G-Bias: 0
B-Bias: 0
Ambient Sensor: Off
--Screen menu--
Setting Memory: [any]
Wide Mode: Full
Auto Wide: Off
4:3 Default: Off [grayed out]
Auto Display Area: Off
Display Area: Full Pixel
Screen Position: [grayed out]
Vertical Size: 0 [grayed out]
--Pro Picture Setup menu--
[all settings default/Auto]
--Home Menu>Settings>Preferences--
--Scene Select menu--
General
--Eco menu--
Power Saving: Off
Light Sensor: Off
Note: This post was edited by its original author Revised settings and calibration notes to correct mistake of ambient light sensor being engaged. on 11/20/2012 at 9:54 AM PT

In his calibration report, CNET writes that he measured four different picture modes: standard, custom, cinema1 and cinema2. However, the 55HX950 has only 3: custom, standart and vivid. Where did he find cinema1 and cinema2 ?
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post #30 of 105 Old 11-22-2012, 01:57 PM
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HX950 specifications

PICTURE MODE: vivid, game-standard, game-original, graphics, sports, animation, standard, custom, photo-vivid, photo-standard, photo-original, photo-custom, cinema1, cinema2.


http://store.sony.com/p/65-inch-HDTV,-Sony-TV,-LED-TV,-HX950,-XBR-Series,-Sony-BRAVIA,-XBR/en/p/XBR65HX950#specifications
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