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post #2791 of 3705 Old 04-28-2013, 06:54 AM
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Sorry for the multiple posts, I;m just trying to get some thoughts out and respond to some questions before I get back to some movie viewing today.

After watching some movies yesterday, I have a few thoughts.

- 1. The blacks really aren't so spectacular so far. They seem not bad in movies, but the CinemaScope bars are really rather greyish - not deep black at all. It's quite noticeable and rather disappointing that the bars don't get blacker. It's really noticeable.

- 2. There is most definitely some screwy forced motion interpolation going on at times. I watched 2 blu-ray movies yesterday and one 720p HDTV rip I've had for a while now, which is unavailable on blu-ray. That HDTV rip is 720p@25.000 fps. I had Auto Motion plus turned off completely, and yet there was still some motion interpolation going on anyways. This was a film that was shot on film in the 80s, and should not have the soap opera effect going on, but there was a tiny touch of it being applied. Only a very mild touch, but it was there. I did not spot any motion interpolation happening on the blu-rays I watched yesterday in 24p, so I don't know why the forced frame interpolation is happening with AMP off in my HDTV rips. I noticed it was doing that with another HDTV rip that I took a peek at yesterday, which was 1080i@25.000 fps. So both a 720p mkv HDTV rip and a 1080i .ts HDTV rip, both @25.000, had a touch of frame interpolation going on, even with AMP off! Yet, both blu-rays I watched with 24p output on was fine. I don't know what to make of that. I plan to watch some more bluy-ray discs and HDTV rips today so I'll see how they do. The forced frame interpolation also definitely happens on HDTV with AMP on custom judder reduction of 0.

- 3. This is a big one for me. The tv is driving me nuts with the way it turns off the screen completely with an all-black screen. I mean literally turns off the screen. It's like somebody just turned the tv off while I was watching it. It's ridiculous, and immediately pulls me out of the movie. It happens whenever there is a fade to an all-black screen, whether that's in-between credits at the beginning of a film, or in the middle of the movie during a fade. It's totally distracting. During the opening credits I was watching yesterday, the screen went black in-between names appearing, and each time, the screen turned off completely for about a second each time. It was practically a strobe effect during the whole opening credits sequence. The worst part - there's no way to disable it! Last year, the ES did the same thing - but it was defeatable by bumping the brightness up to 46 or 47 - that would de-activate the screen turning off. This year that has been changed, as I've discovered, and the only way to disable the screen turning off like that is to bump the brightness up to 53 or 54 - which obviously isn't an option as it will destroy the image as that's far too bright to set the screen at. So I have no choice but to live with this screen turning off all the time during fades to black. This alone may be a deal-breaker for me.

What I don't understand is why this even needs to happen any more. My panel looks incredible. There is virtually no screen uniformity issues. Zero clouding, and very little flashlighting - virtually none to mention. There is no need to hide the screen when it goes black. So why do it? It's so very distracting that I am having doubts whether I can live with this effect. This is with all enhancements off by the way. Last year I had it disabled by having the brightness on 46, but like I said, this year that doesn't work, so there's no way around it. This might be a deal-breaker.

There's my concerns so far with this set. The uniformity is stunning to me - what a revelation after coming from the hideous ES panel last year. The image looks fantastic, especially without the awful auto-dimming. But the greyish-black letterbox bars are a downer, and the other issues I mentioned concerns me. I'm off to watch more movies.

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post #2792 of 3705 Old 04-28-2013, 07:10 AM
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Guys have you seen any pricing for the 75" yet? In Australia I have read a 10k RRP! http://www.gizmodo.com.au/2013/04/samsung-2013-smart-tvs-everything-australians-need-to-know/
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post #2793 of 3705 Old 04-28-2013, 07:10 AM
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Guys have you seen any pricing for the 75" yet? In Australia I have read a 10k RRP! http://www.gizmodo.com.au/2013/04/samsung-2013-smart-tvs-everything-australians-need-to-know/
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post #2794 of 3705 Old 04-28-2013, 07:17 AM
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Eagle, agreed "find glossy panels look far better than matte. Even my PC monitor, which is a glossy 16:10 HP panel, looks far better than my older matte 4:3 Viewsonic sitting right next to it. Remember that before these HDTV flat panels, all CRT screens were glass and were very reflective. It's been that way for decades."....IMHO glossy screens provide a crystal clarify that is worth the trade off.

Disagreed, "The uniformity is stunning to me - what a revelation after coming from the hideous ES panel last year"....my ES8000 is excellent, well worth the money. Standard mode displays excellent blacks, black bars etc and no flashlights, clouds or uniformity issues. Movie mode displays excellent color accuracy, blacks, black bars etc and very minimal flashlights while showing rare clouds and no other uniformity issues.

No perfect panel but the ES and F deliver what i expect from these technologies.

Love for all things Hi-def...Losing count; 200 plus bluray, 500 plus dvd, 30 plus HDdvd and a rapidly growing 50 plus in the cloud.

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post #2795 of 3705 Old 04-28-2013, 07:18 AM
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Eagle, agreed "find glossy panels look far better than matte. Even my PC monitor, which is a glossy 16:10 HP panel, looks far better than my older matte 4:3 Viewsonic sitting right next to it. Remember that before these HDTV flat panels, all CRT screens were glass and were very reflective. It's been that way for decades."....IMHO glossy screens provide a crystal clarify that is worth the trade off.

Disagreed, "The uniformity is stunning to me - what a revelation after coming from the hideous ES panel last year"....my ES8000 is excellent, well worth the money. Standard mode displays excellent blacks, black bars etc and no flashlights, clouds or uniformity issues. Movie mode displays excellent color accuracy, blacks, black bars etc and very minimal flashlights while showing rare clouds and no other uniformity issues.

No perfect panel but the ES and F deliver what i expect from these technologies.

Love for all things Hi-def...Losing count; 200 plus bluray, 500 plus dvd, 30 plus HDdvd and a rapidly growing 50 plus in the cloud.

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post #2796 of 3705 Old 04-28-2013, 07:55 AM
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Does it matter which HDMI port I connect things to? They seem to have labels and the first one is yellow, but I'm not sure why it would matter?

When I have it connected and on the HTPC HDMI source, the screen appears "zoomed" in all directions (from the center). If TV is 1080 and computer is outputting 1080p, what's wrong?
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post #2797 of 3705 Old 04-28-2013, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaitlyn2004 View Post

Does it matter which HDMI port I connect things to? They seem to have labels and the first one is yellow, but I'm not sure why it would matter?

When I have it connected and on the HTPC HDMI source, the screen appears "zoomed" in all directions (from the center). If TV is 1080 and computer is outputting 1080p, what's wrong?


Hi ,

I have no idea whats going on with these things ( F8000 ) , now I have lost audio from my Mac Mini 4.1 ( HDMI to F8000 ) , I have sound yesterday.

I went to preferences and the Samsung was longer listed as an output , but it was yesterday.

So now I have 2 components , my Pioneer DV-79AVi and my MM , both hooked up to the F8000 , and both have stopped transmitting PCM audio.

I can not say anymore , I think you know how I feel right now , just a little peeved ( to say the least )

Take care guy`s , it`s only a tv. ( yea , and a lot of headaches )

Later smile.gif

Gary 
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post #2798 of 3705 Old 04-28-2013, 12:57 PM
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Hi Guy`s ,

I will be getting a replacement on Tuesday , please follow this link for more details on where I go from here.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1462912/official-2013-sony-w802a-series-led-tvs-kdl-xxw802a-47-and-55-owners-thread/180#post_23255597

Thanks , I will keep you posted !

Later , smile.gif

Gary 

PS:

I am open to suggestions wink.gif
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post #2799 of 3705 Old 04-28-2013, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by jedi29 View Post

Hi Guy`s ,

I am open to suggestions wink.gif

Is your main reason for replacing not being able to send PCM audio via hdmi to your f8000? I remember reading you had some weird lines going across your screen or something and having more options than what you thought you would be limited to---if you have standard resolution and have not set input at "pc" most likely you will have more options available.

From my understanding you have your setup like this. Mac mini (hdmi) F8000 (hdmi arc) to pioneer???

I just posted up all of the "supported" audio formats samsung directly supports and PCM certainly wasn't one of them. If you are trying to send codecs that Samsung claims to support my first instinct would be to trouble shoot your HDMI sound codec drivers. (I just had to tinker with mine today, it was only sending 2.0 vs 5.1 I wanted)

What I do is send all of my connections directly to receiver and one hdmi to tv. When I run my HP laptop hdmi out, it sends PCM to receiver to decode.


Haha you switched it up quick!!
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post #2800 of 3705 Old 04-28-2013, 06:13 PM
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When watching some TV shows, sometimes the picture seems to "stutter" and then "jump" a little bit. I may not be describing it well though, and some may not even notice it at all, but I assume this is the Auto Motion Plus issue I've read about in this thread? I I have DirecTV and am watching via HDMI 1. Perhaps I'll try turning AMP to off or to clear to see if it helps, but I'd prefer to keep the custom setting. My custom seeing was Blue Reduction at 10 and Judder Reduction at 0. if anyone has any other thoughts on what a custom setting that may eliminate this problem, it would be great to know.

Rich S
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post #2801 of 3705 Old 04-28-2013, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adgrimes View Post

Is your main reason for replacing not being able to send PCM audio via hdmi to your f8000? I remember reading you had some weird lines going across your screen or something and having more options than what you thought you would be limited to---if you have standard resolution and have not set input at "pc" most likely you will have more options available.

From my understanding you have your setup like this. Mac mini (hdmi) F8000 (hdmi arc) to pioneer???

I just posted up all of the "supported" audio formats samsung directly supports and PCM certainly wasn't one of them. If you are trying to send codecs that Samsung claims to support my first instinct would be to trouble shoot your HDMI sound codec drivers. (I just had to tinker with mine today, it was only sending 2.0 vs 5.1 I wanted)

What I do is send all of my connections directly to receiver and one hdmi to tv. When I run my HP laptop hdmi out, it sends PCM to receiver to decode.


Haha you switched it up quick!!

No , I was not the one with the "weird lines across the screen" , my screen is fine.

Here is the deal: I have my Mac Mini hooked directly to the F8000 by way of an HDMI cable , no DVI , no other stuff , just the one cable.
If I leave the Mac Mini on and do a reset , then I get PCM audio out to the F8000 as well as all 4 video modes , however when I power down my MM then everything changes.

I turn it on and no audio out to F8000 and only 2 video mode choices , Entertain and Standard , neither of the 2 provide an acceptable picture.

I tried calibrating the color profile under my Mac`s preferences and even with the expert mode on ( checked ) , it still did not provide a decent picture , plain and simple.

My dvd player , DV-79AVi , sure it`s old , but it`s A-OK , and no audio out via HDMI cable, same deal , just the one HDMI cable going from it to F8000.

As far as Samsung supporting , or as you put it not supporting PCM , well it does.

If you go to Sound > Digital Out > the first thing ( option ) you see is PCM.

My Yamaha DSP-A1/G is only hooked to my gear via Optical audio cable , that has no bearing on the problems I am dealing with.

I`m not trying to be nasty , I am just stating the truth as I know it.

An HP ( pc ) run a whole different Op-Sys , Mac`s are Unix based , that does not make them any better , just different.

If you do have a any suggestions , fine , but I have worked and re-worked my back-side off trying to work the problem with no success.

Nothing I have tried or done as been out of haste , nothing.

I truly hope you have a pleasant evening and good luck with what ever gear you have.

Gary 
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post #2802 of 3705 Old 04-28-2013, 08:12 PM
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Jeesh! Samsung has you FRUSTRATED I can see. I understand the system operating differences between the windows and mac machines. Both have their advantages. Just trying to help you to think outside of what you have already tried/though of, that is all. There is another tv f8000 set with odd hdmi problems that isn't yours in one of the 2 massive samsung f8000 threads.


By the way when I was referring to not supporting PCM (lossless audio)I was referencing my own experianice having issues trying to SEND lossless audio to samsung via a NAS synology DLNA to samsung TV....not send it out. I thought you were trying to push sound from mac to tv to receiver. So when it IS working, sound is sent PCM to tv to digital audio out to reciever??

Didn't meant to offend, just sounds like its possible it could be a hardware malfunction in the set as you only posted up 4 days ago saying you pulled the trigger.

There is a good saying here. If you aren't happy with it, replace it. Don't settle. Until you hit your financial justification wall smile.gif
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Okay what the hell... I am massively freaking out now.

Was using my TV fine yesterday+today. Just before I went to bed I wanted to test some other things. I boot up my PC and it outputs at 1024x768 resolution!

The TV is being listed in device manager as "Generic non-PnP Monitor"

Some of my searching leads me to believe a damaged/lost/corrupted EDID (which I still don't really understand what it is...)

Is this the case or something else? Has the TV seriously destructed in just a few days?

FREAKING OUT!

Edit: Just tried a 2nd HDMI cable. No dice

Okay so I unplugged everything for 5 minutes and tried again. Seems to have resolved itself - crossing fingers! Any idea what happened?
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post #2804 of 3705 Old 04-28-2013, 11:48 PM
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I did a 1 minute check of the TV and noticed at least one problematic pixel ;( on white it looks pink but on black I can't see it. I'd it stuck or dead?

What should I do assuming it's only this ONE pixel?
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post #2805 of 3705 Old 04-29-2013, 12:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bladerunner1959 View Post

Eagle, agreed "find glossy panels look far better than matte. Even my PC monitor, which is a glossy 16:10 HP panel, looks far better than my older matte 4:3 Viewsonic sitting right next to it. Remember that before these HDTV flat panels, all CRT screens were glass and were very reflective. It's been that way for decades."....IMHO glossy screens provide a crystal clarify that is worth the trade off.

Disagreed, "The uniformity is stunning to me - what a revelation after coming from the hideous ES panel last year"....my ES8000 is excellent, well worth the money. Standard mode displays excellent blacks, black bars etc and no flashlights, clouds or uniformity issues. Movie mode displays excellent color accuracy, blacks, black bars etc and very minimal flashlights while showing rare clouds and no other uniformity issues.

No perfect panel but the ES and F deliver what i expect from these technologies.

Well, if you're happy with your ES set, then that's fine - you obviously got a good one. I don't see how you can disagree with my feelings though on my own personal experience towards uniformity. It's simply my own experience with the sets. My ES7500 had a horrible panel, and even the tech agreed that came out. He called it totally unacceptable and said I should push for a refund. In contrast, the panel of the F8000 in my home right now looks stunning, with zero clouding. There's really nothing to disagree with. You had a great experience with your ES set, I had a horrible experience. So for me, the F8000 is a vast improvement in uniformity. I only know what I've seen from my own experience. But every pro review so far has stated the uniformity on the F series is vastly superior, and from my experience so far, I can back that up.

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post #2806 of 3705 Old 04-29-2013, 01:03 AM
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Originally Posted by jedi29 View Post

No , I was not the one with the "weird lines across the screen" , my screen is fine.

Here is the deal: I have my Mac Mini hooked directly to the F8000 by way of an HDMI cable , no DVI , no other stuff , just the one cable.
If I leave the Mac Mini on and do a reset , then I get PCM audio out to the F8000 as well as all 4 video modes , however when I power down my MM then everything changes.

I turn it on and no audio out to F8000 and only 2 video mode choices , Entertain and Standard , neither of the 2 provide an acceptable picture.

I tried calibrating the color profile under my Mac`s preferences and even with the expert mode on ( checked ) , it still did not provide a decent picture , plain and simple.

My dvd player , DV-79AVi , sure it`s old , but it`s A-OK , and no audio out via HDMI cable, same deal , just the one HDMI cable going from it to F8000.

As far as Samsung supporting , or as you put it not supporting PCM , well it does.

If you go to Sound > Digital Out > the first thing ( option ) you see is PCM.

My Yamaha DSP-A1/G is only hooked to my gear via Optical audio cable , that has no bearing on the problems I am dealing with.

I`m not trying to be nasty , I am just stating the truth as I know it.

An HP ( pc ) run a whole different Op-Sys , Mac`s are Unix based , that does not make them any better , just different.

If you do have a any suggestions , fine , but I have worked and re-worked my back-side off trying to work the problem with no success.

Nothing I have tried or done as been out of haste , nothing.

I truly hope you have a pleasant evening and good luck with what ever gear you have.

Gary 

Sorry to hear you're having problems. I am too but I understand how nuts these issues can make an owner feel.

As far as the Entertain and Standard modes go, it's unfortunate that you can't tweak the settings to your own individual liking. I really, really can't understand this. My PC monitor allows to me to make adjustments to the image, obviously - I have full control over things, yet it doesn't affect lag just because I want to tweak the image. I can't fathom why Samsung forces these modes with no ability to tweak them to our liking. Why does Samsung insist on telling us what's best for us? Why can't we tweak it the way we want to? At least this year we have a second option - Entertain. Last year there was only one viewing mode. This year the Entertain option is new.

I don't know why you're having audio issues honestly. I wish I could help you there.

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post #2807 of 3705 Old 04-29-2013, 01:12 AM
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Originally Posted by kaitlyn2004 View Post

Okay what the hell... I am massively freaking out now.

Was using my TV fine yesterday+today. Just before I went to bed I wanted to test some other things. I boot up my PC and it outputs at 1024x768 resolution!

The TV is being listed in device manager as "Generic non-PnP Monitor"

Some of my searching leads me to believe a damaged/lost/corrupted EDID (which I still don't really understand what it is...)

Is this the case or something else? Has the TV seriously destructed in just a few days?

FREAKING OUT!

Edit: Just tried a 2nd HDMI cable. No dice

Okay so I unplugged everything for 5 minutes and tried again. Seems to have resolved itself - crossing fingers! Any idea what happened?

There do seem to be EDID issues that can arise form these sets at times. I never heard of EDIDs until last year when I started to have weird issues form time to time, mostly involving the audio. Basically an EDID is a list of all audio and video modes that the tv can handle. When a device like a PC connects to the tv, it reads the tv's EDID to see what audio and video resolution it is capable of, so that it knows what it can send. If you try to select a video resolution that the tv can't recognize, the PC should know the tv can't support it. But sometimes the EDID can send the wrong info or it can be read wrong, and if that happens, the other devices will be affected because it will be told false info about the tv due to the faulty EDID info. There are even cases where some people edit their EDID to support other devices that it normally wouldn't. But I really don't know too much about that myself.

You can look into MonInfo if you're at all interested. It a small software utility for your PC. You simply run it while the PC is using the tv as it's only monitor, and the software will show you the EDID information, so you can see all audio and video that the tv can support. You can even save the info out as a file.

Glad to hear that it sorted itself out. Not sure what happened there. Sometimes my ES set got confused with EDID info when I turned on my receiver, because the receiver has it's own EDID, and then the tv does, and sometimes the PC would seem to get confused over what's supported. Maybe it's a Windows issue?

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post #2808 of 3705 Old 04-29-2013, 01:14 AM
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Originally Posted by kaitlyn2004 View Post

I did a 1 minute check of the TV and noticed at least one problematic pixel ;( on white it looks pink but on black I can't see it. I'd it stuck or dead?

What should I do assuming it's only this ONE pixel?

How does it appear against other colors? Does it change colors or is it visible on other colors or just on white?

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post #2809 of 3705 Old 04-29-2013, 02:05 AM
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I'm getting audio from my PC to both my tv speakers and my receiver surround speakers through the single HDMI cable from my PC to my receiver. I have the input plugged into the HDMI ARC input on the F8000. At first I got no audio but all I had to do was go into my Sound>Playback Devices menu on my Windows 7 and select "Samsung-1" under my available options. Then I could "configure speakers" and test for surround by making sure the PC was sending audio correctly to each surround speaker individually, which it was.

I used my MonInfo utility to check the EDID info for my F8000. Here's the relevant info that shows it's audio/video abilities:


Model name............... SAMSUNG
Manufacturer............. Samsung
Manufacture date......... 2012, ISO week 46
Filter driver............ None
EDID revision............ 1.3
Input signal type........ Digital
Color bit depth.......... Undefined
Display type............. RGB color
Screen size.............. 1020 x 570 mm (46.0 in)
Power management......... Not supported
Extension blocs.......... 1 (CEA-EXT)
DDC/CI................... Not supported

Color characteristics
Default color space...... Non-sRGB
Display gamma............ 2.20
Red chromaticity......... Rx 0.640 - Ry 0.330
Green chromaticity....... Gx 0.300 - Gy 0.600
Blue chromaticity........ Bx 0.150 - By 0.060
White point (default).... Wx 0.313 - Wy 0.329
Additional descriptors... None

Timing characteristics
Horizontal scan range.... 15-81kHz
Vertical scan range...... 24-75Hz
Video bandwidth.......... 150MHz
CVT standard............. Not supported
GTF standard............. Not supported
Additional descriptors... None
Preferred timing......... Yes
Native/preferred timing.. 1920x1080p at 60Hz (16:9)
Modeline............... "1920x1080" 148.500 1920 2008 2052 2200 1080 1084 1089 1125 +hsync +vsync
Detailed timing #1....... 1920x1080p at 50Hz (16:9)
Modeline............... "1920x1080" 148.500 1920 2448 2492 2640 1080 1084 1089 1125 +hsync +vsync

Standard timings supported
720 x 400p at 70Hz - IBM VGA
640 x 480p at 60Hz - IBM VGA
640 x 480p at 67Hz - Apple Mac II
640 x 480p at 72Hz - VESA
640 x 480p at 75Hz - VESA
800 x 600p at 60Hz - VESA
800 x 600p at 72Hz - VESA
800 x 600p at 75Hz - VESA
832 x 624p at 75Hz - Apple Mac II
1024 x 768p at 60Hz - VESA
1024 x 768p at 70Hz - VESA
1024 x 768p at 75Hz - VESA
1280 x 1024p at 75Hz - VESA
1152 x 870p at 75Hz - Apple Mac II
1152 x 864p at 75Hz - VESA STD
1280 x 720p at 60Hz - VESA STD
1280 x 800p at 60Hz - VESA STD
1280 x 1024p at 60Hz - VESA STD
1440 x 900p at 60Hz - VESA STD
1600 x 900p at 60Hz - VESA STD
1680 x 1050p at 60Hz - VESA STD

EIA/CEA-861 Information
Revision number.......... 3
IT underscan............. Supported
Basic audio.............. Supported
YCbCr 4:4:4.............. Supported
YCbCr 4:2:2.............. Supported
Native formats........... 5
Detailed timing #1....... 1280x720p at 60Hz (16:9)
Modeline............... "1280x720" 74.250 1280 1390 1430 1650 720 725 730 750 +hsync +vsync
Detailed timing #2....... 1280x720p at 50Hz (16:9)
Modeline............... "1280x720" 74.250 1280 1720 1760 1980 720 725 730 750 +hsync +vsync
Detailed timing #3....... 1920x1080i at 60Hz (16:9)
Modeline............... "1920x1080" 74.250 1920 2008 2052 2200 1080 1084 1094 1124 interlace +hsync +vsync

CE video identifiers (VICs) - timing/formats supported
1920 x 1080p at 60Hz - HDTV (16:9, 1:1) [Native]
1920 x 1080p at 50Hz - HDTV (16:9, 1:1)
1280 x 720p at 60Hz - HDTV (16:9, 1:1)
1280 x 720p at 50Hz - HDTV (16:9, 1:1)
1920 x 1080i at 60Hz - HDTV (16:9, 1:1)
1920 x 1080i at 50Hz - HDTV (16:9, 1:1)
720 x 480p at 60Hz - EDTV (16:9, 32:27)
720 x 576p at 50Hz - EDTV (16:9, 64:45)
1920 x 1080p at 24Hz - HDTV (16:9, 1:1)
1920 x 1080p at 25Hz - HDTV (16:9, 1:1)
1920 x 1080p at 30Hz - HDTV (16:9, 1:1)
720 x 480i at 60Hz - Doublescan (16:9, 32:27)
720 x 576i at 50Hz - Doublescan (16:9, 64:45)
NB: NTSC refresh rate = (Hz*1000)/1001

CE audio data (formats supported)
LPCM 2-channel, 16/20/24 bit depths at 32/44/48 kHz

CE speaker allocation data
Channel configuration.... 2.0
Front left/right......... Yes
Front LFE................ No
Front center............. No
Rear left/right.......... No
Rear center.............. No
Front left/right center.. No
Rear left/right center... No
Rear LFE................. No

CE video capability data
CE scan behavior......... Supports overscan and underscan
IT scan behavior......... Supports overscan and underscan
PT scan behavior......... Not supported
RGB quantization range... Not supported
YCC quantization range... Not supported

CE vendor specific data (VSDB)
IEEE registration number. 0x000C03
CEC physical address..... 3.5.0.0
Supports AI (ACP, ISRC).. Yes
Supports 48bpp........... No
Supports 36bpp........... Yes
Supports 30bpp........... Yes
Supports YCbCr 4:4:4..... Yes
Supports dual-link DVI... No
Maximum TMDS clock....... 225MHz
Audio/video latency (p).. n/a
Audio/video latency (i).. n/a
HDMI video capabilities.. Yes
EDID screen size......... Rounded to nearest cm
3D structures supported.. Top-and-bottom
3D formats supported..... Mandatory formats plus some primary VICs
1920 x 1080p at 60Hz - HDTV (16:9, 1:1) [Native]
1920 x 1080p at 50Hz - HDTV (16:9, 1:1)
1280 x 720p at 60Hz - HDTV (16:9, 1:1)
1280 x 720p at 50Hz - HDTV (16:9, 1:1)
1920 x 1080i at 60Hz - HDTV (16:9, 1:1)
1920 x 1080i at 50Hz - HDTV (16:9, 1:1)
1920 x 1080p at 24Hz - HDTV (16:9, 1:1)
1920 x 1080p at 30Hz - HDTV (16:9, 1:1)
NB: NTSC refresh rate = (Hz*1000)/1001
Data payload............. 030C003500B82D21D0120040053F0810181028103810481058108810


This is what the PC and other devices see the tv capable of when it communicates. This EDID tells the devices what audio and video the F8000 supports.

F8000 2D settings:
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post #2810 of 3705 Old 04-29-2013, 05:21 AM
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Hi Guy`s ,

I did not mean to sound nasty in my previous post , it was a long hard weekend dealing with Samsung.

I thank you all for your continued help and support. smile.gif

Thanks eagle for providing the info that you have , it is greatly appreciated. As far as my MM , I can calibrate it within itself , meaning I am not monitor dependent.
However , as good as the profiles are that are available to me you must first have a monitor that at least works to some degree of compatibility.

The F8000 , is a comparable monitor to use with the Mac Mini 4.1 , however the erratic behavior of the F8000 is beyond the norm.

I will see what happens tomorrow , but I do find it strange that I have 2 compatible devices hooked up via HDMI to the F8000 and neither are transmitting audio data of any kind , should be PCM , but nada frown.gif .

O___BTW , I double checked everything and in the sound menu , under digital sound the option for PCM out is not greyed out , it is just that the F8000 is not picking up the signal.

Take care guy`s , it was a tuff weekend , I am getting to old for this !! biggrin.gif

Later , and thanks again smile.gif

Gary 
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post #2811 of 3705 Old 04-29-2013, 05:57 AM
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Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

How does it appear against other colors? Does it change colors or is it visible on other colors or just on white?

I believe it was l like this:
- white: is pinkish
- black: can't see
- red: can't see
- green: it looks much darker/blackish
- blue: I think it wasn't showing?
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post #2812 of 3705 Old 04-29-2013, 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by kaitlyn2004 View Post

I believe it was l like this:
- white: is pinkish
- black: can't see
- red: can't see
- green: it looks much darker/blackish
- blue: I think it wasn't showing?

Hmm, I'm certainly no expert with dead/stuck pixels so I wouldn't want to steer you wrong. Mine stays black and I'm virtually certain it's dead. I would say if it remains that way and doesn't go away, I would try to get a replacement. For the money these sets cost I don't think people should have to settle for flaws like that. It's not meant to happen so therefore it's a defect. Of course it may not bother you that much, and you may not even notice it when viewing. But my take on it is I don't want to start out with a flaw right out of the box like that. My advice would be to get it exchanged for another one like I plan to if I end up wanting to stick with the F8000.

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post #2813 of 3705 Old 04-29-2013, 06:49 AM
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Okay what the hell... I am massively freaking out now.

Was using my TV fine yesterday+today. Just before I went to bed I wanted to test some other things. I boot up my PC and it outputs at 1024x768 resolution!

The TV is being listed in device manager as "Generic non-PnP Monitor"

Some of my searching leads me to believe a damaged/lost/corrupted EDID (which I still don't really understand what it is...)

Is this the case or something else? Has the TV seriously destructed in just a few days?

FREAKING OUT!

Edit: Just tried a 2nd HDMI cable. No dice

Okay so I unplugged everything for 5 minutes and tried again. Seems to have resolved itself - crossing fingers! Any idea what happened?

Okay now really what the hell. I just woke up this morning, turned it on again and now it has yet again reverted to 1024x768. I went ~5 years with my previous television without a single issue like this. WHAT GIVES!
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post #2814 of 3705 Old 04-29-2013, 07:15 AM
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kaitlyn2004 ,

I have no idea what Samsung is doing , I don`t think even Samsung knows.

Best of luck to you , keep us posted.

Later , smile.gif

Gary 
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post #2815 of 3705 Old 04-29-2013, 07:54 AM
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kaitlyn2004 ,

I have no idea what Samsung is doing , I don`t think even Samsung knows.

Best of luck to you , keep us posted.

Later , smile.gif

Gary 

I feel like I've actually made good progress.

I'm regularly able to "reset it" by unplugging for ~5 minutes.

When I turn on the HTPC then TV and switch to the input source (regardless of what it turns on with, it seems) it works just fine... USING THE INCLUDING REMOTE
As soon as I try to repeat above in any fashion using my Harmony 700, it wants to reset the display and not give it full 1080p option.

Don't have a single clue what the Harmony could be sending that is screwing it up? It appears to turn the TV on, wait a few seconds, then switch inputs - as expected...

It's added as the actual model in the Harmony software - it's in the database of supported devices...
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post #2816 of 3705 Old 04-29-2013, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaitlyn2004 View Post

I feel like I've actually made good progress.

I'm regularly able to "reset it" by unplugging for ~5 minutes.

When I turn on the HTPC then TV and switch to the input source (regardless of what it turns on with, it seems) it works just fine... USING THE INCLUDING REMOTE
As soon as I try to repeat above in any fashion using my Harmony 700, it wants to reset the display and not give it full 1080p option.

Don't have a single clue what the Harmony could be sending that is screwing it up? It appears to turn the TV on, wait a few seconds, then switch inputs - as expected...

It's added as the actual model in the Harmony software - it's in the database of supported devices...
By any chance do you have Anynet+ turned on? I was having tons of problems with my set switching inputs and some other things until I turned this off.

Rich S
TiVo since 1999
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post #2817 of 3705 Old 04-29-2013, 08:00 AM
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Okay, I'm sure this must be an easy one, but does anyone know how to get the "info" button to show the TV info instead of the info for my STB (when I press the info button via the Sammy remote, it is the function of my STB (DirecTV) info button)?

Rich S
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post #2818 of 3705 Old 04-29-2013, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaitlyn2004 View Post

As soon as I try to repeat above in any fashion using my Harmony 700, it wants to reset the display and not give it full 1080p option.

Don't have a single clue what the Harmony could be sending that is screwing it up? It appears to turn the TV on, wait a few seconds, then switch inputs - as expected...

It's added as the actual model in the Harmony software - it's in the database of supported devices...

I know they just added the f8000 to Harmony database recently. Did you have it on another remote before? If so, did it ever malfunction? One thing I've noticed is I had the ES8000 remote before added on database and here were more buttons available! The F8000 remote in database doesn't even have tools...blows my mind.
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post #2819 of 3705 Old 04-29-2013, 08:14 AM
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By any chance do you have Anynet+ turned on? I was having tons of problems with my set switching inputs and some other things until I turned this off.

I had turned it off this morning during some of my testing. Doesn't seem to have made a difference...
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post #2820 of 3705 Old 04-29-2013, 08:26 AM
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I know they just added the f8000 to Harmony database recently. Did you have it on another remote before? If so, did it ever malfunction? One thing I've noticed is I had the ES8000 remote before added on database and here were more buttons available! The F8000 remote in database doesn't even have tools...blows my mind.

It worked lovely with my previous Toshiba 42" 42HL167.

I just set up the activity again using a UN55D8000... it won't actually switch to the input it seems (yet using the on-screen softbuttons allow me to switch to HDMI 2...)

Now about to try with UN55ES8000! frown.gif
- Seems to have same effect as using the F8000...

How could using the harmony just totally screw it up? Once it's "broken" I can't even switch off/on to the source using default Samsung remote and have it work..

UGH! frown.gif

If I turn on the computer, then DON"T use the activity and just use the on-screen buttons of "power on" then "HDMI 2" it works like a charm.
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