Official Vizio M-Series Razor Mxx1i thread - Page 136 - AVS Forum
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post #4051 of 9995 Old 08-23-2013, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by bodine1231 View Post

Is the 80" worth the $1500+ price difference over the 70"? I'm going back and forth between the two. If I bought the 80" I'd have to wait a few months to upgrade my sound. None of the shops in my area have them so I can't compare the size in person.

The 80" is spectacular and awe inspiring. Every time I walk by the set it puts a smile on my face (on or off) smile.gif

Oh and I came back from vacation last week and finally got the 1.08 update.
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post #4052 of 9995 Old 08-23-2013, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by bodine1231 View Post

Is the 80" worth the $1500+ price difference over the 70"? I'm going back and forth between the two. If I bought the 80" I'd have to wait a few months to upgrade my sound. None of the shops in my area have them so I can't compare the size in person.

Just to put this in the correct perspective a lot of people state that it is only a few inches bigger but this does translates to approx a 35% large screen. Not implying that the 68% price increase is a good value but at least you have a clear perspective on the real differences.
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post #4053 of 9995 Old 08-23-2013, 03:00 PM
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Ha! Sorry about that. I made the mistake of referencing the overview copy on the Vizio site's page for the E601, and not noticing it saying "on select models" in the paragraph.

I think what your choice makes perfect sense -- Good luck!

Thank you sir...bought one from amazon. Crossing my fingers for a good one, my last one would intermittently lose picture for a couple minutes with my PS3 or PC (both hdmi). If I pushed any button on the vizio remote the picture would come back. Very weird.
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post #4054 of 9995 Old 08-23-2013, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by shooter71 View Post

Just to put this in the correct perspective a lot of people state that it is only a few inches bigger but this does translates to approx a 35% large screen. Not implying that the 68% price increase is a good value but at least you have a clear perspective on the real differences.

I was about to do the math on that, but you saved me. I realized this back in the old RPTV days when I was debating between a Mitsu 50" and a Sony 53" and originally I'm thinking, they are virtually the same, and then I did the math and realized it was something like 15 or 18% bigger. There is a very large difference between a 70 and 80.
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post #4055 of 9995 Old 08-23-2013, 04:11 PM
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I was about to do the math on that, but you saved me. I realized this back in the old RPTV days when I was debating between a Mitsu 50" and a Sony 53" and originally I'm thinking, they are virtually the same, and then I did the math and realized it was something like 15 or 18% bigger. There is a very large difference between a 70 and 80.

Display Wars is a nifty site that helps you visualize the size difference between TVs. For example, here's 70 vs 80.
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post #4056 of 9995 Old 08-23-2013, 04:50 PM
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Attention Harmony Remote users:

I was just checking out the available infrared commands and noticed that there are NOW input commands for InputHdmi1 thru InputHdmi4. This wasn't the case a few weeks back. So those of you who are having problems having the TV switch over to the correct input when changing to a different activity should be able to update your remote and have it work more seamlessly (i.e., add an additional send InputHdmi* command under custom actions).

Now the only obstacle from my perspective is the "M" series having an ancient version of Amazon VOD which by itself is probably not a deal breaker.

I'm keeping a tally of those who had experiences with both Samsung (F7100, F6400) and Vizio ("M" series) and it's 2 for Vizio and 1 for Samsung so far.

From a professional perspective, cnet has a Samsung F6400 in for testing and according to Katzmaier it's his last hope (along with the "7" series models) for a 2013 LED to outperform the "M" series in terms of PQ outside of the Sony KDL-W900a and Samsung F8000.

Edit: Remembered another person who had both the Samsung and Vizio, make that 3 Vizio, 1 Samsung

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post #4057 of 9995 Old 08-23-2013, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by zerolimit View Post

what does the update do? I am on the 60inch also but at work so dont know if mine updated.
It gives you full screen app's-just double click the app button, voila!!! And, you now have the facebook app, along with about 35 more, equally useless app's. And that's it.......no remote improvement. PQ is still amazing, as is 3D.
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post #4058 of 9995 Old 08-23-2013, 08:31 PM
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Ok, I don't know what to do. As I posted a day or so ago, every time I power on my M701d it essentially freezes for roughly three minutes. As long as I am on the input I want, which is 95% of the time, it's only an annoyance in that the display/info information box at the top of the TV stays up for three minutes until it unfreezes (won't take any remote inputs during that time).

I contacted Vizio and they said I should try a factory reset, which I did and it made no difference. Do I live with the TV being frozen/locked up for three minutes every time I power it up? Do I contact Amazon and have them replace it? Do I contact Vizio and have them send someone out to work on it (Vizio said I should contact them and not where I purchased it)?

Bummed out that I'm starting my Vizio experience this way. Has anyone heard of this problem occurring, or is it just a bum TV?
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post #4059 of 9995 Old 08-23-2013, 09:11 PM
 
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Originally Posted by Tnedator View Post

Ok, I don't know what to do. As I posted a day or so ago, every time I power on my M701d it essentially freezes for roughly three minutes. As long as I am on the input I want, which is 95% of the time, it's only an annoyance in that the display/info information box at the top of the TV stays up for three minutes until it unfreezes (won't take any remote inputs during that time).

I contacted Vizio and they said I should try a factory reset, which I did and it made no difference. Do I live with the TV being frozen/locked up for three minutes every time I power it up? Do I contact Amazon and have them replace it? Do I contact Vizio and have them send someone out to work on it (Vizio said I should contact them and not where I purchased it)?

Bummed out that I'm starting my Vizio experience this way. Has anyone heard of this problem occurring, or is it just a bum TV?

I think I would see if they can send a repair tech to your home to try and fix it first, only because you bought it from Amazon, if it were a brick and mortar I'd say return it ASAP. If Vizio can't fix it then return it to Amazon. You don't have to pay S&H on defective TV's
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post #4060 of 9995 Old 08-23-2013, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Tnedator View Post

Ok, I don't know what to do. As I posted a day or so ago, every time I power on my M701d it essentially freezes for roughly three minutes. As long as I am on the input I want, which is 95% of the time, it's only an annoyance in that the display/info information box at the top of the TV stays up for three minutes until it unfreezes (won't take any remote inputs during that time).

I contacted Vizio and they said I should try a factory reset, which I did and it made no difference. Do I live with the TV being frozen/locked up for three minutes every time I power it up? Do I contact Amazon and have them replace it? Do I contact Vizio and have them send someone out to work on it (Vizio said I should contact them and not where I purchased it)?

Bummed out that I'm starting my Vizio experience this way. Has anyone heard of this problem occurring, or is it just a bum TV?

It's a no brainer for me, replace the TV. It'll probably be quicker and less stressful on you. You paid for a new TV, not one that may be taken apart and then be told that you'll have to wait for some part to come in. It's a scenario that may or may not happen but why worry about it?

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post #4061 of 9995 Old 08-23-2013, 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by venus933 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tnedator View Post

Ok, I don't know what to do. As I posted a day or so ago, every time I power on my M701d it essentially freezes for roughly three minutes. As long as I am on the input I want, which is 95% of the time, it's only an annoyance in that the display/info information box at the top of the TV stays up for three minutes until it unfreezes (won't take any remote inputs during that time).

I contacted Vizio and they said I should try a factory reset, which I did and it made no difference. Do I live with the TV being frozen/locked up for three minutes every time I power it up? Do I contact Amazon and have them replace it? Do I contact Vizio and have them send someone out to work on it (Vizio said I should contact them and not where I purchased it)?

Bummed out that I'm starting my Vizio experience this way. Has anyone heard of this problem occurring, or is it just a bum TV?

It's a no brainer for me, replace the TV. It'll probably be quicker and less stressful on you. You paid for a new TV, not one that may be taken apart and then be told that you'll have to wait for some part to come in. It's a scenario that may or may not happen but why worry about it?

I had previously tuff relaxing hdmi cable and even unplugging the video, in case it was a handshake problem. However, the whole time I had left the Ethernet cable attached. That just occurred to me, so I unplugged the Ethernet, powered it on and the info display cleared after ten or fifteen seconds and the remote worked fine.

I connected it to Wi-Fi with a dedicated ip and it worked fine. In the morning, I will try and figure out if it's a bad Ethernet port on the TV or if it was a dhcp or wireless bridge problem.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
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post #4062 of 9995 Old 08-24-2013, 12:39 AM
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Holy awesome, folks. If you're looking for some eye candy for your new M, treat yourself to at least a few minutes of The Art of Flight.

It may be mostly style and flash, but it's a total blast getting engrossed with the super slow-mo cinematography in such a beautiful and expansive locale.
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post #4063 of 9995 Old 08-24-2013, 01:14 AM
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I played around with a bunch of credits in search of blooming in a darkened room. Yes my 60" blooms, too with Smart Dimming enabled, whenever I have my backlight set into the 30s and higher. It's more subtle than the flashlighting, but it's there.

The reason it doesn't bother me much and I don't really notice is because I'm currently running my backlight much lower than Ursa's and CNET's settings for night viewing. Crazy as it may sound, my favorite night backlight settings so far are in the 12-18 range, and no higher than 25. The set is inherently so bright that I still get plenty of punch at those numbers, and it keeps the flashlighting tolerable. I also get the added benefit of reducing eye strain. For daytime viewing I'm back up in the 40s and 50s for backlight.

A less punchy night-viewing picture probably won't be to most people's tastes, but so far I find that it's giving me the flexibility to enjoy the blacks afforded by local dimming without much distraction from flashlighting.

At those lower backlight settings, I am noticing that the relationship between backlight and brightness becomes much more critical (or put another way, each step up or down in brightness has a greater effect on the picture): As I lower the backlight into the low teens, the brightness needs to drop a bit along with it. At a backlight of 13, I found the most shadow detail and best blacks with a brightness of 46. At a backlight of 18, a brightness of 47 looks to be the sweet spot. As I bring the backlight back up into the 40s and 50s, the brightness sweet spot appears to level out at 49 or 50.

Just initial observations, but thought I'd share.
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post #4064 of 9995 Old 08-24-2013, 03:12 AM
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Quick question since I have not been in this thread to much for a while now .....

Any New Great settings?

I saw someone say CNET settings ... where can I find those? Also I am using one of Ursa's settings from about a month or more ago I would say and they look great ... any update to his settings?

Is there a clear consensus on the all around best settings for the 70" (the 60 and 80 are in the same category as well) ???

Just wanting to make sure I haven't missed something updated or there is a way better lot of setting since I last made changes over a month ago.

Thanks so much for the info and I look forward to seeing if there is something new that I can get an even better picture out this great TV. smile.gif
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post #4065 of 9995 Old 08-24-2013, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by falconman515 View Post

Quick question since I have not been in this thread to much for a while now .....

Any New Great settings?

I saw someone say CNET settings ... where can I find those? Also I am using one of Ursa's settings from about a month or more ago I would say and they look great ... any update to his settings?

Is there a clear consensus on the all around best settings for the 70" (the 60 and 80 are in the same category as well) ???

Just wanting to make sure I haven't missed something updated or there is a way better lot of setting since I last made changes over a month ago.

Thanks so much for the info and I look forward to seeing if there is something new that I can get an even better picture out this great TV. smile.gif

cnet settings: http://forums.cnet.com/7723-19410_102-596324/vizio-m551d-a2r-picture-settings/

It's my understanding that the 50/55 inch models have different specs than the larger screen sizes so they may not be applicable

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post #4066 of 9995 Old 08-24-2013, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by falconman515 View Post

Quick question since I have not been in this thread to much for a while now .....

Any New Great settings?

I saw someone say CNET settings ... where can I find those? Also I am using one of Ursa's settings from about a month or more ago I would say and they look great ... any update to his settings?

Is there a clear consensus on the all around best settings for the 70" (the 60 and 80 are in the same category as well) ???

Just wanting to make sure I haven't missed something updated or there is a way better lot of setting since I last made changes over a month ago.

Thanks so much for the info and I look forward to seeing if there is something new that I can get an even better picture out this great TV. smile.gif

I have a 70 and I'm using:

Backlight: 45 day or 25 night
Brightness: 56
Contrast: 78
Color: 41
Tint: -1
Sharpness: 0
Color Temp: Custom all default 128
Smart Dimming: ON

Everything else off
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post #4067 of 9995 Old 08-24-2013, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by 2k10GT View Post

Holy awesome, folks. If you're looking for some eye candy for your new M, treat yourself to at least a few minutes of The Art of Flight.

It may be mostly style and flash, but it's a total blast getting engrossed with the super slow-mo cinematography in such a beautiful and expansive locale.
Seen it. It's basically a Red Bull commercial, shot by Brain Farms-and features some of the most fantastic camera work you will ever see. They used many different types of camera's-all very expensive. I believe the entire film was shot/rendered to 4K, then 3D-it was all shot digitally.

The preview, on YouTube actually came out last year-and at that time I thought it was the most amazing "sport" video I had ever seen(and I've seen a lot). It's still number 1 on my playlist-and the 3D is spectacular. This is the video I show friends when they come over. The colors-although mostly white snow, are amazing, simply because of how they used natural and reflected light, to get the shots.
Remember-those high speed camera's were shooting at something like 1000+ frames per second-which means that the minimum shutter speed was1/1000th of a second.

There was a behind the scenes video showing how they got some of the shots(lots of reflectors and light stands)...and, if you search Redbull on Youtube, take a look at some of the other snowboard video's they shot-including the night one....just amazing.
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post #4068 of 9995 Old 08-24-2013, 09:48 AM
 
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I played around with a bunch of credits in search of blooming in a darkened room. Yes my 60" blooms, too with Smart Dimming enabled, whenever I have my backlight set into the 30s and higher. It's more subtle than the flashlighting, but it's there.

The reason it doesn't bother me much and I don't really notice is because I'm currently running my backlight much lower than Ursa's and CNET's settings for night viewing. Crazy as it may sound, my favorite night backlight settings so far are in the 12-18 range, and no higher than 25. The set is inherently so bright that I still get plenty of punch at those numbers, and it keeps the flashlighting tolerable. I also get the added benefit of reducing eye strain. For daytime viewing I'm back up in the 40s and 50s for backlight.

A less punchy night-viewing picture probably won't be to most people's tastes, but so far I find that it's giving me the flexibility to enjoy the blacks afforded by local dimming without much distraction from flashlighting.

At those lower backlight settings, I am noticing that the relationship between backlight and brightness becomes much more critical (or put another way, each step up or down in brightness has a greater effect on the picture): As I lower the backlight into the low teens, the brightness needs to drop a bit along with it. At a backlight of 13, I found the most shadow detail and best blacks with a brightness of 46. At a backlight of 18, a brightness of 47 looks to be the sweet spot. As I bring the backlight back up into the 40s and 50s, the brightness sweet spot appears to level out at 49 or 50.

Just initial observations, but thought I'd share.

My 55" went up to 100 brightness. Is the 60" the same ? I couldn't imagine watching with %12 backlight. That's like watching a 10 year old Plasma.

Also, does your set have clean edges ? What I mean is, the 55" I used to have along with 5 display model 55" M's I've seen in various stores, all had what have been described as "pencil lines" on the left or right side ( or both as mine had ) from top to bottom. A pencil line is basically a gray line of pixels about 1/8" before the screen meets the black border. It is very noticeable during light scenes.
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post #4069 of 9995 Old 08-24-2013, 11:01 AM
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My 55" went up to 100 brightness. Is the 60" the same ? I couldn't imagine watching with %12 backlight. That's like watching a 10 year old Plasma.

Also, does your set have clean edges ? What I mean is, the 55" I used to have along with 5 display model 55" M's I've seen in various stores, all had what have been described as "pencil lines" on the left or right side ( or both as mine had ) from top to bottom. A pencil line is basically a gray line of pixels about 1/8" before the screen meets the black border. It is very noticeable during light scenes.

Haha, I know it sounds crazy. Yep, 0-100. But LEDs are so bright these days, how much of that power is really usable in a dark room? At what point are the highlights on Brad Pitt's face no longer highlights and something that actually cause your pupils to contract? I'm not saying it's perfect, but I do think it's worth experimenting with simply because you get really wonderful blacks, great shadow detail, natural colors (Ursa's color settings seem to work well on my set so far) and tolerable lighting imperfections. The snow in The Art of Flight still looks like sunlit snow that makes you want to squint a little, and midtones and fleshtones don't look dark or overly saturated -- they just look natural. That's a feat that my F6350 couldn't even come close to doing ... darker light output meant muddy everything. I think it's a testament to how good these sets are.

As for the edges, they're absolutely clean. That's one reason I went with the 60". I couldn't find a single 55" in the stores without 1/4" pencil lines/shadows around all 4 sides, and many also had imperfect placement of the film on the screen, leaving 1-2 pixels uncovered and brighter just inside the bezel. None of that on the 60", it's just clean. Couldn't be happier.
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post #4070 of 9995 Old 08-24-2013, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by venus933 View Post

Attention Harmony Remote users:

I was just checking out the available infrared commands and noticed that there are NOW input commands for InputHdmi1 thru InputHdmi4. This wasn't the case a few weeks back. So those of you who are having problems having the TV switch over to the correct input when changing to a different activity should be able to update your remote and have it work more seamlessly (i.e., add an additional send InputHdmi* command under custom actions).

Now the only obstacle from my perspective is the "M" series having an ancient version of Amazon VOD which by itself is probably not a deal breaker.

I'm keeping a tally of those who had experiences with both Samsung (F7100, F6400) and Vizio ("M" series) and it's 2 for Vizio and 1 for Samsung so far.

From a professional perspective, cnet has a Samsung F6400 in for testing and according to Katzmaier it's his last hope (along with the "7" series models) for a 2013 LED to outperform the "M" series in terms of PQ outside of the Sony KDL-W900a and Samsung F8000.

Edit: Remembered another person who had both the Samsung and Vizio, make that 3 Vizio, 1 Samsung

Which M series model did you pick to get the inputs to show up? They're still not listed for the M701d.

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post #4071 of 9995 Old 08-24-2013, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by falconman515 View Post

Quick question since I have not been in this thread to much for a while now .....

Any New Great settings?

I saw someone say CNET settings ... where can I find those? Also I am using one of Ursa's settings from about a month or more ago I would say and they look great ... any update to his settings?

Is there a clear consensus on the all around best settings for the 70" (the 60 and 80 are in the same category as well) ???

Just wanting to make sure I haven't missed something updated or there is a way better lot of setting since I last made changes over a month ago.

Thanks so much for the info and I look forward to seeing if there is something new that I can get an even better picture out this great TV. smile.gif

I’ve had a Vizio M701D for a little over a month now. I watch it in a nearly dark room with an overhead light on dim so the wall around the set isn’t completely dark (I know someone who has some sort of lighting arrangement behind his set, don’t recall the details.) I tried dropping the backlight down to miminize dark screen uniformity and flashlighting issues, but I couldn’t go below 40 before bright areas just didn’t look bright enough to me. I turn my color level down probably more than most because otherwise the colors on most pictures look too saturated to my eye. I like smooth motion on low so credits at the end of a movie don’t look jumpy when they’re scrolling. Haven’t tried turning noise reduction off altogether. Incidentally I noticed on my old CCFL backlit set that if I turned backlighting down really low the fluorescents would emit enough IR to interfere with my IR remotes, don’t know if that’s an issue with LEDs.

-Picture Settings Menu-
Picture Mode: Calibrated Dark
Backlight: 40
Brightness: 55
Contrast: 75
Color: 30
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 32

-Color Temperature Submenu-
Color Temperature: Normal (all set to 128)

-Advanced Picture Submenu-
Auto Brightness: Off
Black Detail: Off
Smart dimming: On
Smooth Motion: Low
Reduced Signal Noise: Low
Reduced Block Noise: Low
Film Mode: Auto
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post #4072 of 9995 Old 08-24-2013, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by bbexperience View Post

Which M series model did you pick to get the inputs to show up? They're still not listed for the M701d.

The model number is listed as M701d-A3 in the Harmony database

The last 4 input commands listed are InputHdmi1, InputHdmi2, InputHdmi3, InputHdmi4

Not sure if it matters but I have a Harmony 600

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post #4073 of 9995 Old 08-24-2013, 11:58 AM
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My calculation of viewing distance for a 70" TV:

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post #4074 of 9995 Old 08-24-2013, 12:15 PM
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This article has a nice graph of viewing distance vs. size and resolution:

http://www.rtings.com/info/television-size-to-distance-relationship
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post #4075 of 9995 Old 08-24-2013, 12:21 PM
 
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Originally Posted by 2k10GT View Post

Haha, I know it sounds crazy. Yep, 0-100. But LEDs are so bright these days, how much of that power is really usable in a dark room? At what point are the highlights on Brad Pitt's face no longer highlights and something that actually cause your pupils to contract? I'm not saying it's perfect, but I do think it's worth experimenting with simply because you get really wonderful blacks, great shadow detail, natural colors (Ursa's color settings seem to work well on my set so far) and tolerable lighting imperfections. The snow in The Art of Flight still looks like sunlit snow that makes you want to squint a little, and midtones and fleshtones don't look dark or overly saturated -- they just look natural. That's a feat that my F6350 couldn't even come close to doing ... darker light output meant muddy everything. I think it's a testament to how good these sets are.

As for the edges, they're absolutely clean. That's one reason I went with the 60". I couldn't find a single 55" in the stores without 1/4" pencil lines/shadows around all 4 sides, and many also had imperfect placement of the film on the screen, leaving 1-2 pixels uncovered and brighter just inside the bezel. None of that on the 60", it's just clean. Couldn't be happier.

Well, my very expensive 55" F7050 has a pencil line on the left side, one guy in the 7100 thread has had 3 7050's with pencil lines, also the display at Costco had them too. I'm sick of buying and returning TV's ( I'm on my 5th now) I'm not some super picky guy, I've had some major issues with all 5 of them. Pencil lines and dark corners are unacceptable to me, because its visible during day and night.

Other than the pencil lines I absolutely love the F7050 but at this point I don't like my chances of getting a clean 55" 7050, the 60" is waay too expensive and it has a Sharp panel. So I'm thinking of exchanging for a 60" M.
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post #4076 of 9995 Old 08-24-2013, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by venus933 View Post

The model number is listed as M701d-A3 in the Harmony database

The last 4 input commands listed are InputHdmi1, InputHdmi2, InputHdmi3, InputHdmi4

Not sure if it matters but I have a Harmony 600

Very strange. When I add that model it doesn't have those options. I did end up finding the M501d which does have those listed.

Read. Think. Post. In that order, preferably

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post #4077 of 9995 Old 08-24-2013, 06:32 PM
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I wanted to comment on my calibrated settings. My main goal was to get the color correct. This was accomplished thru the RGB settings. The contrast, brightness, backlight etc settings were at my discretion and thus NOT calibrated settings. It seems folks have their own goals for those setting so feel free to adjust those to your own taste but consider keeping the RGB settings which are correct for 6500K which is daylight and an industry standard. They provide balanced colors from about 10% gray to 100% gray. From the feed back I've received it seems these settings translate well to the 60",70" and 80" Mseries. I was pleasantly surprised that this Vizio could be calibrated almost to perfection for color. Out of the box it had a red push, perfect green and understated blue. If you don't like these calibrations simply resort to the default reset. Also please remember to calibrate each HDMI input if those are what you are using. Use whatever mode you like. Game mode is NOT necessarily the only mode to use. Standard, calibrated etc. will work well too.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1452199/official-vizio-m-series-razor-mxx1i-thread/2550#post_23518914

Ursa
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post #4078 of 9995 Old 08-24-2013, 07:08 PM
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Ok, my M701D clearly has a problem connecting via ethernet. I've tried it both DHCP and static, and same thing happens. It connects, and the test is find (download shows around 7000k. I can use the apps that require the internet, and they all work fine, including streaming HD.

However, if ethernet is hooked up, it freezes for 3 minutes when first powered on, and also, after making any ethernet changes, when I exit the menu, it will also freeze for 3 or 4 minutes.

Can someone check something for me, if you are hooked up via ethernet (not Wi-Fi, as wifi works fine). If you look at your router, bridge or switch that your cable is plugged into, do you have one light or two lights blinking? The port my TV is plugged into has one light blinking and one light showing no activity. All other cables plugged into the switch have both lights blinking.
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post #4079 of 9995 Old 08-24-2013, 08:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ursa99 View Post

I wanted to comment on my calibrated settings. My main goal was to get the color correct. This was accomplished thru the RGB settings. The contrast, brightness, backlight etc settings were at my discretion and thus NOT calibrated settings. It seems folks have their own goals for those setting so feel free to adjust those to your own taste but consider keeping the RGB settings which are correct for 6500K which is daylight and an industry standard. They provide balanced colors from about 10% gray to 100% gray. From the feed back I've received it seems these settings translate well to the 60",70" and 80" Mseries. I was pleasantly surprised that this Vizio could be calibrated almost to perfection for color. Out of the box it had a red push, perfect green and understated blue. If you don't like these calibrations simply resort to the default reset. Also please remember to calibrate each HDMI input if those are what you are using. Use whatever mode you like. Game mode is NOT necessarily the only mode to use. Standard, calibrated etc. will work well too.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1452199/official-vizio-m-series-razor-mxx1i-thread/2550#post_23518914

Ursa

1) Since there are variations from one panel to the next would your settings be as accurate for other 60 and larger televisions? Are they close enough that getting your own set professionally calibrated probably isn't worth it?

2) I'm assuming the Input TV have its own settings for calibrating your OTA channels but what about the apps? On my Samsung, SmartHub appears to have its own settings. Is it this way with the Vizio?

Thank you!

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post #4080 of 9995 Old 08-24-2013, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ursa99 View Post

I wanted to comment on my calibrated settings. My main goal was to get the color correct. This was accomplished thru the RGB settings. The contrast, brightness, backlight etc settings were at my discretion and thus NOT calibrated settings. It seems folks have their own goals for those setting so feel free to adjust those to your own taste but consider keeping the RGB settings which are correct for 6500K which is daylight and an industry standard. They provide balanced colors from about 10% gray to 100% gray. From the feed back I've received it seems these settings translate well to the 60",70" and 80" Mseries. I was pleasantly surprised that this Vizio could be calibrated almost to perfection for color. Out of the box it had a red push, perfect green and understated blue. If you don't like these calibrations simply resort to the default reset. Also please remember to calibrate each HDMI input if those are what you are using. Use whatever mode you like. Game mode is NOT necessarily the only mode to use. Standard, calibrated etc. will work well too.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1452199/official-vizio-m-series-razor-mxx1i-thread/2550#post_23518914

Ursa

Thanks for the color settings. I left my “Normal” settings to flat and assigned your RGB numbers to “Custom” so I could toggle back and forth. With color turned all the way down to 0 your numbers looked more like B&W to me, the flat settings had a greenish tint to my eye.

Back to the backlight setting, this pattern is great for evaluating backlight and brightness tradeoffs on these side lit sets with local dimming because of the bright area above and the darker area below. I have mine set so the 2% below black bars disappear and the local dimming difference isn’t too obvious above and below. So I’m pretty happy for now until 70” OLED TVs are available in this price range.


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