Official Vizio M-Series Razor Mxx1i thread - Page 318 - AVS Forum
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post #9511 of 9528 Old 07-10-2014, 05:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renji1337 View Post

I'm looking at this M-Series monitor [and TV]:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...140710104027:s


I was wondering if this is a true 120hz panel and if this offers a 24p mode?

Also, is it possible to turn off the soap opera effect?


.

As per User Manual (Models: M492i-B2, M552i-B2, & M652i-B2):


Refresh Rate: 240 Hz Effective.


• Smooth Motion Effect - Activates Smooth Motion™
motion estimation/motion compensation, which
suppresses motion judder, or “stuttering” of the image
when the camera moves across a scene horizontally.
Select Off, Low, Medium, or High.

• Motion Blur Reduction - Reduces blur in scenes with fast
action. Some sensitive viewers may notice flicker.
Select On or Off.

• Film Mode - Optimizes the picture for watching film.
Select Auto or Off.


Ooooh. I like the keyboard remote:





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File Type: jpg xrt500_11.jpg (15.2 KB, 8 views)

- Pj

Vizio M401i-A3 (40") V1.34.31.0080. APC Back-UPS for DHG250 V1.2.21; Did UserConfigReset (no TVGOS Patches, FPC); 653214741 Reset aprx 12am every 4th, 5th, or 6th Thu. No CableCard. OTA & Analog/Digital Cable Service*. ClearStream-4 to DTX9950 to Composite-In of Philips 3576H; RF-In to local Cable*. WMC with WinTV-HVR-2250.
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post #9512 of 9528 Old 07-10-2014, 07:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CleCakYngMfd View Post
The Backlight, and especially the Contrast are pretty HIGH. Depending on source/content, there will be 'overexposure' or 'over-driven' issues. This has been my experience when driving the Backlight and/or especially the Contrast too high.



.
Agreed on the Contrast. While the 235 level is supposed to be peak level for video, almost all video has peak levels that use some of the headroom between 235 and 255. On most displays, including the Vizio, the red, blue, and green sub-pixels of the display don't all peak at the same point. So if you don't set contrast low enough, a bright white in that 235 to 255 range will cause a single primary color to peak before the others which then results in a color shift. So the brightest whites will not be the same color as the not quite so bright whites. While it sounds like this will simply make the brightest whites not look right, human visual perception will actually attempt to compensate to a degree and shift the perception of the colors of everything else on screen when this occurs as well.

The highest level I could set the contrast without clipping any of the primary colors below level 255 was 65. Red began clipping at 66. Blue was difficult to determine because it does not exhibit a linear increase in brightness. The banding is bad enough that some lower number brightness levels of blue are displayed as brighter than the next several brightness levels above them. If my colorimeter was still working correctly, I would use it to verify that white at the 255 level was the same color as all whites at lower levels (D6500). When it starts to stray from that, the contrast is set too high. I do advocate setting the contrast as high as possible without clipping any of the primary colors, therefore using the maximum dynamic range of the display, and then adjust the backlight level to achieve the desired overall picture brightness.

High backlight levels shouldn't cause any color shift or undesirable picture issues other than simply having too bright of a picture. Backlight levels should not cause any color issues unless the backlight changes color with variance in backlighting level (which it shouldn't, and would cause significant color issues with smart dimming if it did). Determining if there was any color shift with changes in backlight levels would require a colorimeter or photo spectrometer.
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Last edited by KC-Technerd; 07-10-2014 at 07:15 AM.
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post #9513 of 9528 Old 07-10-2014, 09:53 AM
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I'm sure this has been answered somewhere before but....................
The 11 point white balance...I see some of you post settings for each percentage. Once I enter the settings for 5%-100% am I supposed to pick a percentage or is the tv making adjustments based on every single change i made?

Last edited by Bushwicktarheels; 07-10-2014 at 12:09 PM.
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post #9514 of 9528 Old 07-10-2014, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bushwicktarheels View Post
I'm sure this has been answered somewhere before but....................
The 11 point white balance...I see some of you post settings for each percentage. Once I enter the settings for 5%-100% am I supposed to pick a percentage or just leave as is on the 5%.
You can leave it on 5%, you've got all the other percentages entered so you're good to go.
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post #9515 of 9528 Old 07-10-2014, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by PlayNice View Post
Connect to the network and wait.
I actually do remember seeing a notification of an update a couple months back that included a long list of items. So I guess I sort of answered my own question....

I just wish there was a way to start the process when I want to.

So no tricks to do that I guess?
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post #9516 of 9528 Old 07-10-2014, 01:14 PM
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You can leave it on 5%, you've got all the other percentages entered so you're good to go.
So the TV is using all 11 setting changes i did?
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post #9517 of 9528 Old 07-10-2014, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bushwicktarheels View Post
So the TV is using all 11 setting changes i did?
Correct.
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post #9518 of 9528 Old 07-10-2014, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by waylo88 View Post
Correct.
thank you both for your responses.
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post #9519 of 9528 Old 07-10-2014, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KC-Technerd View Post
Agreed on the Contrast. While the 235 level is supposed to be peak level for video, almost all video has peak levels that use some of the headroom between 235 and 255. On most displays, including the Vizio, the red, blue, and green sub-pixels of the display don't all peak at the same point. So if you don't set contrast low enough, a bright white in that 235 to 255 range will cause a single primary color to peak before the others which then results in a color shift. So the brightest whites will not be the same color as the not quite so bright whites. While it sounds like this will simply make the brightest whites not look right, human visual perception will actually attempt to compensate to a degree and shift the perception of the colors of everything else on screen when this occurs as well.

The highest level I could set the contrast without clipping any of the primary colors below level 255 was 65. Red began clipping at 66. Blue was difficult to determine because it does not exhibit a linear increase in brightness. The banding is bad enough that some lower number brightness levels of blue are displayed as brighter than the next several brightness levels above them. If my colorimeter was still working correctly, I would use it to verify that white at the 255 level was the same color as all whites at lower levels (D6500). When it starts to stray from that, the contrast is set too high. I do advocate setting the contrast as high as possible without clipping any of the primary colors, therefore using the maximum dynamic range of the display, and then adjust the backlight level to achieve the desired overall picture brightness.

High backlight levels shouldn't cause any color shift or undesirable picture issues other than simply having too bright of a picture. Backlight levels should not cause any color issues unless the backlight changes color with variance in backlighting level (which it shouldn't, and would cause significant color issues with smart dimming if it did). Determining if there was any color shift with changes in backlight levels would require a colorimeter or photo spectrometer.
Thanks for the feedback everyone, and especially KC-Technerd for dropping this knowledge. This solved a problem I was having determining the contrast level. With the v1.09 firmware I had the contrast set this high with no ill effects (that I was aware of), but since the v1.34 update the contrast test pattern on the AVSHD 709 disk had a pinkish tint. The more I lowered the contrast the more pink it got over the 235 level. Not knowing what was going on (or really what the hell I was doing) I just raised the contrast until the pink only showed at the lower end of the contrast range.

So armed with this new knowledge I lowered the contrast until the test pattern stopped being pink, which turned out to be at magic number 65, just like KC-Technerd stated. I rechecked the other levels and bumped brightness up to 53 and color down to 43. Everything else seemed fine, and I'll have to wait until tonight to really check out the brightness level, but I could see the difference right away. Definitely looks more natural.

Thanks again.
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post #9520 of 9528 Old 07-10-2014, 03:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CleCakYngMfd View Post
The Backlight, and especially the Contrast are pretty HIGH. Depending on source/content, there will be 'overexposure' or 'over-driven' issues. This has been my experience when driving the Backlight and/or especially the Contrast too high.



.
That makes sense. I'll try lowering them a bit. Looks like he has this set for a particularly bright environment.
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post #9521 of 9528 Old 07-10-2014, 04:07 PM
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Just did a run-through of the Disney WOW disc, first time since getting 1.34. The settings definitely changed quite a bit. Here is what I am now using on my 50". I calibrated this in a room with medium light. Not dark, but not bright either.

New 1.34 Settings

Backlight - 50
Brightness - 64
Contrast - 71
Color - 42
Tint - -1
Sharpness - 0
Color Temp - Normal
Advanced Settings - All off

I also went into the Professional Picture menu and pulled down the Red Offset to -4 and Red Gain to -2 as the "Normal" picture setting was just a touch too red for my liking, while both "Computer" and "Cool" were much too blue.

Previous 1.09 Settings

Backlight - 50
Brightness - 57
Contrast - 76
Color - 46
Tint - -1
Sharpness - 0
Color Temp - Normal
Advanced Settings - All off

Pretty obvious fluctuations in the Brightness, Contrast, and to an extent, Color. Overall, I think these look pretty good, but I still think my PQ was better with 1.09. These will do for me though.

Again, this is for my 50" M, so I'd imagine these would also be compatible with 55" and 65" models as well.
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post #9522 of 9528 Old Yesterday, 12:03 AM
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is there any way to adjust the refresh rate?

sorry for noob question.

thanks
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post #9523 of 9528 Old Yesterday, 04:08 AM
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i am now having lip sync issues on my 80M. i have a vizio sound bar hooked to the tv. The sound bar is always on and i guess goes to sleep and the tv gets turned off after viewing. When i turn the tv on there is a lot of lip sync issue with the video vs the sound coming from the sound bar. I have a custom pic setting.

Any recommendations, seriously considering whether to keep this tv or not. Doesn't happen to my LG in the bedroom.
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post #9524 of 9528 Old Yesterday, 07:14 AM
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An update to the settings I posted yesterday. I watched a few episodes of The Sopranos, some of the Yankees/Indians game, and some Summer League basketball and I'm really starting to enjoy them even more. I said that I thought my PQ on 1.09 was better, but I'm not so sure anymore. These look really good and the blacks are no longer crushed on my set.
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post #9525 of 9528 Old Yesterday, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sid369 View Post
i am now having lip sync issues on my 80M. i have a vizio sound bar hooked to the tv. The sound bar is always on and i guess goes to sleep and the tv gets turned off after viewing. When i turn the tv on there is a lot of lip sync issue with the video vs the sound coming from the sound bar. I have a custom pic setting.

Any recommendations, seriously considering whether to keep this tv or not. Doesn't happen to my LG in the bedroom.
how is the sound bar hooked up? directly to tv? optical?

regardless, this happened to me once....all i did was turn off everything, disconnect all the wires and unplug everything...waited a few minutes before reconnecting everything and plugging them back in and the problem went away.

let me know if this helps....PS, there is a lip-sync setting in the audio settings of the TV...i'm also using a vizio soundbar with my M60 although I've never had to adjust the lip sync settings.

good luck, I would not let such a minor issue turn you away from an amazing TV. if this problem just appeared it should be easily fixable.
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post #9526 of 9528 Old Yesterday, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by waylo88 View Post
An update to the settings I posted yesterday. I watched a few episodes of The Sopranos, some of the Yankees/Indians game, and some Summer League basketball and I'm really starting to enjoy them even more. I said that I thought my PQ on 1.09 was better, but I'm not so sure anymore. These look really good and the blacks are no longer crushed on my set.
So in The Color Tuner everything is 0 except for the 2 gains?
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post #9527 of 9528 Old Yesterday, 03:04 PM
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So in The Color Tuner everything is 0 except for the 2 gains?
I've got the Red Offset at -4 and Red Gain at -2. Everything else is 0.
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post #9528 of 9528 Old Yesterday, 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by renji1337 View Post
I'm looking at this m series monitor. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...140710104027:s

I was wondering if this is a true 120hz panel and if this offers a 24p mode, also is it possible to turn off the soap opera affect
Not sure about the 2014 models, but the 2013 M651d overclocks (PC's only) to 120hz at 1760x990 and any resolution below that (1600x900, 1280x720, etc); and can OC to 108hz, 109hz if the stars align just right, at 1920x1080. The set also downsamples up to 3840x2160 at 37hz (44hz at 1080p timings) and beyond (6000x3375 at 22hz). 3600x2025 at 42hz (48hz at 1080p timings). 3200x1800 at 52hz (76hz at 1080p timings). 2560x1440 at 81hz (103hz at 1080p timings). And so on.

Also, just to clarify to everyone including whoever did the M651d Cnet review last year, the M651d is a true 240hz panel because even when refreshing at an actual 120hz INPUT refresh rate, there is still Frame Interpolation if it is set to On when not in Game mode. The maximum input refresh rate is 120hz, and the maximum panel refresh rate is 240hz as it can & does refresh at a TRUE 240hz when using 120hz input with Smooth Motion set to On. Confusing, I know.

The M651d also does as low as 19hz PC input, 23.976 is available as a true refresh rate (it also does an excellent 3:2 at 59hz).

The M651d also has a Game mode that does indeed allow you to disable all post-processing and internal processing, decreasing input lag and also eliminating the "soap opera effect", although IMO setting Smooth Motion to Low decreases judder & eye fatigue without making video appear "soap opera-like", but to each their own.

Not sure if this info helps you or not, but the M651d is the only Vizio model we've played with. I would imagine a 240hz 3D panel from the same company would be comparable to most of the above features, but if not I wouldn't be highly surprised.

ALSO, almost forgot to mention, the M651d is also Chroma 4:4:4 capable. Pretty relevant if you're planning to use a TV as a monitor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mreasier View Post
I have a M651d-A2R and got the update about a week ago. I am very pleased, especially with the now usable remote. There is a new setting on the Advanced menu that I have not seen discussed here. It is titled "Active LED Zones" and the description says "Dynamically improves the contrast by locally adjusting backlight zones. The adjustment is controlled by the content of the screen". It seems to improve the picture in a dark room but not in a bright room. Any other experiences?
I have it set to Off after viewing/testing on my M651d. I use the opening scenes from Alien for black level and color "testing" and, from what I noticed, when a camera pans slowly from light-to-dark or dark-to-light images, the Active LED Zones setting seems to lag behind and cause odd backlighting effects. Basically it brightens or dims the backlight a half second too late. May not be noticeable to all, so YMMV, but I'm leaving it set to Off.


Quote:
Originally Posted by lotohnz View Post
cnet's 11-point white balance (for 2014 M-series) (they might not correlate exactly, but they settings definitely seem to be an improvement over the default settings. After living with them awhile I tried going back to the default settings, but it was just way too hard to look at. With the cnet settings I'm getting finer shadow detail and much less eye fatigue. So I'll keep using them until someone comes up with 11-point White Balance settings for the 2013 models):

[Gain amounts for Red, Green and Blue]

5%: 10, -1, 1

10%: 16, 8, 39

20%: 3, 1, 24

30%: -8, -6, -7

40%: -24, -23, -6

50%: -48, -39, -31

60%: -50, -50, -36

70%: -50, -50, -34

80%: -50, -50, -39

90%: -42, -45, -50

100%: 0, -10, 0

There you go. Hope that helps...
100% agree with your post. These are an improvement. Thanks for posting.
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Last edited by trey31; Yesterday at 10:36 PM.
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