Official Sony KDL-55W900A Owners Thread - Page 94 - AVS Forum
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post #2791 of 4985 Old 01-16-2014, 05:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by *UFO* View Post

Does anyone know what the native bit depth of the w900a is? I know that it will accept 12-bit signals, but surely the panel is not 12-bit native?

Hi UFO

Sorry I can;t answer you question but I'm hoping you can answer mine.

I know you tested gamemode and graphics mode with various settings with your Leo Lag tester and concluded that graphics mode was the fastest and only local dimming increases input. Well my question is did you test it with live colour ON and OFF and was they a difference?

Reason I ask is because I have tried gaming for hours with Live colour on and off and with it on gaming does feel a little more sluggish. I also seem to get better lap times and get better K/D ratios when its off.

If you still have the Leo Lag tester is they any chance you could test this?

Cheers

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post #2792 of 4985 Old 01-16-2014, 05:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SToRM666 View Post

So far quite happy with the set, but still with some minor doubts. The only real problem being the full blacks. When I move just a little bit from the centre I already see the blacks changing color.
The VT60 plasma is still in my head, but at this point I fear that I might regret trading in a perfect W905 for a set that has the potential for buzzing, noisy fans and/or retention. And the design of the W905 is really nice.
I read in the review on hdtvtest that LED Dynamic Control set to "low" is the best?

I had the VT60 before the W905 and TBH I do prefer the Sony.

Yeah the VT60 has great blacks but so does the Sony as long as you use some bias lighting.

Viewing angles will be a problem if your not more or less viewing head on.

Here is a few pro's can con's to help.

VT60 Pro's

Viewing angels
Blacks

Con's

Image retention (and yes it does get it, often)
Buzzing
Fan noise
Not as bright as LED and more suited to night time viewing
energy rating
gets very hot
dither
some flicker (depends on how sensitive you are to it)

Sony W9

Pro's

Brighter picture
Sharper picture
Low input lag
energy rating
Cheaper

Con's

Viewing Angels
Black levels (although bias lighting helps a lot)
Plastic screen rather than gorilla glass.

I even had the Sony X9 but sent it back, It is a better TV than the W9 but it wasn't worth the extra cash.

Oh and with regards to the Dynamic Control, Reviewers recommend LOW but I have it set at Standard as it gives better blacks although you may lose a little shadow detail.

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post #2793 of 4985 Old 01-16-2014, 05:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SToRM666 View Post

So far quite happy with the set, but still with some minor doubts. The only real problem being the full blacks. When I move just a little bit from the centre I already see the blacks changing color.
The VT60 plasma is still in my head, but at this point I fear that I might regret trading in a perfect W905 for a set that has the potential for buzzing, noisy fans and/or retention. And the design of the W905 is really nice.
I read in the review on hdtvtest that LED Dynamic Control set to "low" is the best?

From their review: "In the end, we still went with “Standard”. Although the gamma performance is less predictable, we found the deeper blacks to be worth the trade-off"
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post #2794 of 4985 Old 01-16-2014, 05:39 AM
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@jasjw: thanks for your reply! Interesting to read that there are people that have switched from the VT60 to the W905.
Your pro's and con's are very accurate too and the same as the ones I have.

I think the two tv's are really close in terms of performance and it really depends on personal taste to what pro's and con's are the most important.
I think that in the end the chance of retention, the noise and power consumption could be a huge dealbreaker for me.
The only negative the Sony has is the changing blacks, which is only visible when there is a pure black screen and when I'm viewing at an angle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by anony73 View Post

From their review: "In the end, we still went with “Standard”. Although the gamma performance is less predictable, we found the deeper blacks to be worth the trade-off"

I seemed to have missed that line. I'm going to change that setting tonight then.
Edit: I can't seem to find the line you quoted. The conclusion I found is this:

Quote:
Between the two available [LED Dynamic Control] settings, we preferred “Low“. “Standard” uses a more aggressive dimming algorithm, resulting in visible halos (on certain scenes) and hard cut to absolute black. Both delivered similar levels of black-level improvement when it came to ANSI contrast measurements, hence there’s almost no logical reason to choose “Standard” over “Low“.

Tonight I am having a friend over who is a plasma owner, so I am really curious to his reaction on my W905.
I'll keep you guys updated smile.gif
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post #2795 of 4985 Old 01-16-2014, 06:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevez1 View Post

Can anyone help with a website where I can get some recommended settings. CNET recommended settings are horrible. I just had mother board replaced. TV power recycled and I lost all of my settings. Also had a problem where TV speakers would turn on when in Audio system mode. Now that they changed mother board can't seem to get decent picture. Bought TV from BB with 5 yr extended contract but they keep sending me back to Sony because it's still in Warranty period. They are going to charge me to have Geek squad come out to calibrate.

Appreciate help

Thanks

Stevez1


There are many good settings posted in this thread. I have posted a few of my own, you can do a search by user name or just go back through this thread.

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post #2796 of 4985 Old 01-16-2014, 06:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frankiek3 View Post

The first time I used the Internet browser it was on a firmware from December (right after I got it : )
I was on this site to check out some test patterns:
http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/

The browser crashed when selecting the next page. I reopened it and the same page loaded successfully. I'm guessing it was a memory issue. The TV basically runs on android

BTW I think the latest firmware removed the full pixel option

No, the Full Pixel option is still available after the Dec 19th Firmware update, as I use that option.

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post #2797 of 4985 Old 01-16-2014, 07:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by *UFO* View Post

Does anyone know what the native bit depth of the w900a is? I know that it will accept 12-bit signals, but surely the panel is not 12-bit native?


The Sony 55W900A uses a native 10-bit panel with a 12-Bit color processing chip. My Blue-Ray and DVD's thru my Sony BDS5100 play @ 4:4:4 12-Bit

If your TV can accept or have the x.y.Color setting available then the Panel is 10-Bit since that is what is needed to display the wider color spectrum.

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post #2798 of 4985 Old 01-16-2014, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by DarthAVS View Post

Where is the pixel located? I had one I thought was stuck on red also. It was located in the bottom center to the right. Just above the SONY logo. I tried all of the techniques to get it unstuck. It turns out, it wasnt stuck, it was a dead subpixel. The green subpixel was dead. On white and light colored screens the pixel would show red, but on screens where the green was not needed like blue or of course red, the pixel would display the correct color. Is your pixel always red or does it sometimes show the correct color like on a blue screen? If so, you have a dead sub pixel like I had. I actually returned my set for a new one. I am very pleased with the new set. No pixel problems and the dark sides were less prominent on the new set.

My pixel is red regardless of what color is being displayed by the TV, so I think it's stuck.
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post #2799 of 4985 Old 01-16-2014, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptinCrunch View Post

No, the Full Pixel option is still available after the Dec 19th Firmware update, as I use that option.

I'm on version PKG4.101AAA and I set full pixel when it was suggested in this thread but when I looked earlier at my settings and it was gone, but I figured it out:
I was on an SD TV channel (wide mode Full) when it doesn't show, on a 1080i channel it shows FULL PIXEL (wide mode Normal). It does the same with 720p as with 480i SD, so if your looking for the option make sure your on a 1080 source
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post #2800 of 4985 Old 01-16-2014, 09:27 AM
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Those of you familiar with this TV know that when you bought it the web browser defaulted to the Sony Store website. Any of you have problems with the TV freezing trying to load this website, and/or booting you out to the Applications page when the Sony Store website was the default page? I'm trying to determine if there is an issue with the TV or my wifi in the house.

I see very little discussion about issues with the web browser in this thread so I'm thinking most did not have the problem. From the little I have found, it seems the TV will load other webpages without issue and that the problem was with the Sony site.

Thanks.
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post #2801 of 4985 Old 01-16-2014, 10:29 AM
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I just got my W900 last night and was wondering if it was worth it to get it professionally calibrated? my friend is getting his ZT60 done and were trying to see if we can get a deal to my W900 done also.  Anyone have recommended settings I can try on the W900.

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post #2802 of 4985 Old 01-16-2014, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by nixorz View Post

I just got my W900 last night and was wondering if it was worth it to get it professionally calibrated? my friend is getting his ZT60 done and were trying to see if we can get a deal to my W900 done also.  Anyone have recommended settings I can try on the W900.

Every review I've read on it so far states that Cinema 1 is really really close to being perfect out of the box. Apparently though, the TV can achieve near spot on accuracy if it is calibrated, leaving it with only a small deviation in the gamma curve. So, it may be worthwhile if you can get a deal.
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post #2803 of 4985 Old 01-16-2014, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasjw View Post

Hi UFO

Sorry I can;t answer you question but I'm hoping you can answer mine.

I know you tested gamemode and graphics mode with various settings with your Leo Lag tester and concluded that graphics mode was the fastest and only local dimming increases input. Well my question is did you test it with live colour ON and OFF and was they a difference?

Reason I ask is because I have tried gaming for hours with Live colour on and off and with it on gaming does feel a little more sluggish. I also seem to get better lap times and get better K/D ratios when its off.

If you still have the Leo Lag tester is they any chance you could test this?

Cheers

Live color has no effect at all on input lag. Even though graphics is 2ms faster than game mode, I still use game mode because graphics seems to make the picture look too soft. The most lag you can get in game mode (without using impulse mode) is 20ms, and that is with the backlight dimming on. All other settings (besides turning on impulse mode), do not effect the lag at all.
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post #2804 of 4985 Old 01-16-2014, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by *UFO* View Post

Live color has no effect at all on input lag. Even though graphics is 2ms faster than game mode, I still use game mode because graphics seems to make the picture look too soft. The most lag you can get in game mode (without using impulse mode) is 20ms, and that is with the backlight dimming on. All other settings (besides turning on impulse mode), do not effect the lag at all.

That's great cheers.

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post #2805 of 4985 Old 01-16-2014, 03:43 PM
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Hi guys. Got my replacement from Sony yesterday.  

There were a couple of dings and scuffs on the backside of the panel, but everything else is perfect.  And what's more is that the dark middle is largely gone now.  

There's by no means perfect uniformity, but it's among the best I've seen.  I will post pictures in a few.  


However, what I wanted to talk about is settings.  Having no means to do a perfect calibration, here's what I come up with:  


1) 6500K lightbulb set behind the TV and calibrating a gray scale to blend

 

2) using the free ISF 3-point grayscale app on my iPhone to calibrate my white balance. 

 

***As a note, I was able to successfully match (almost perfectly) the grayscale on both calibrations to the source. 

 

Which of the two would prove more accurate?  

I'm asking because my iPhone 4S takes nearly accurately colored pictures, aside from the lack of saturation.  On the other hand, the 6500K bulb is supposed to be 6500K, so...

 

My WB settings for both are as follows:

 

1) 6500K lightbulb

 

R-Gain: -6

G-Gain: 0

B-Gain: -2

R-Bias: 0

G-Bias: -1

B-Bias: 0

 

2) Iphone:

 

R-Gain: -3

G-Gain:  0

B-Gain: -13

R-Bias: 0

G-Bias: -2

B-Bias: 0

 

All in all, there is a bit more flashlighting on the bottom-left on the recertified set, but I'm happy! 

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post #2808 of 4985 Old 01-16-2014, 09:11 PM
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Picked up my W900A tonight at Best Buy. Had no trouble having them match Frys price.

Initial impressions are good. I'm coming from a 55ST50 so I think it's going to take a bit of time for me to adjust fully since the nature of the picture is a bit different. Off axis is noticible brightness shift, but I primarly sit fully in front of the TV so it doesn't really matter.

I will say this. This TV STOMPS all over the Panny in 3d. Not even a contest. I'm watching the beginning of Pacific Rim and there's a world different of clarity and depth.
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post #2809 of 4985 Old 01-16-2014, 09:18 PM
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So I just spent the last 4 hours trying and failing to get BOTH Amazon and Best Buy to match Frys $1699 price point.  I am beyond frustrated right now.

 

Amazon simply would not budge on the grounds that, because it was a 4-day sale, they considered it a "time limited sales event" - which really is hard to argue with, even with the rational that all sales are time limited.  It got to the point where I claimed I knew some of you who had received the price match.  They still refused.  I went up 3 levels of command before giving up.

 

Best Buy seemed kinder and less resistive.  I might have gotten them to match, except that Frys was closed and unable to confirm their price via phone. Best Buy could not confirm and match tonight and I should try again tomorrow. 

 

Except that the Frys sale ENDS tonight.  So maybe I'm screwed.

 

But I took a leap of faith.  I purchased the TV on Bestbuy.com, for in-store pickup locally tomorrow.  The purchase was technically on the 16th.  I strategically printed out my Best Buy order confirmation and (more importantly) Frys webpage showing their $1699.00 price point.

 

My slim hope is that they'll honor the price-match because, technically, I made the purchase on the 16th when I *could* have bought it from Frys for the lower price. 

 

I guess I shouldn't be too disappointed.  I had already decided that I was going to purchase this television, so the price drop would just be a nice bonus.  I only wish I had logged onto these forums last night or the night before, instead of 4 hours before cutoff.  But anyways, wish me luck!

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post #2810 of 4985 Old 01-16-2014, 09:36 PM
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Sorry to hear that. Best Buy matched me the Frys price tonight with no hesitation and we don't even have a Frys within several hundred miles.
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post #2811 of 4985 Old 01-16-2014, 09:57 PM
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I ended up having to call Sony Service ((800) 222-7669) to get my netflix promotional offer. I had gone through the app, and it said that an email would be sent but none ever came. To be fair, I registered the tv *after* I went through the app. Anyway, they said it would take a couple of days for the email to pop up.
Really enjoying this set, such great picture! As far as price matching noise, I specifically purchased it using a chase visa signature card due to one of the benefits the card offered is that they will price match up to 3-months after purchase of an item, provided it's from a certified vendor, and you're willing to collect the ads and fill out some forms... In addition, the card extends by one year the original warrantee, which is awesome....just a thought in case you are thinking about pulling the trigger.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bull3964 View Post

Picked up my W900A tonight at Best Buy. Had no trouble having them match Frys price.

Initial impressions are good. I'm coming from a 55ST50 so I think it's going to take a bit of time for me to adjust fully since the nature of the picture is a bit different. Off axis is noticible brightness shift, but I primarly sit fully in front of the TV so it doesn't really matter.

I will say this. This TV STOMPS all over the Panny in 3d. Not even a contest. I'm watching the beginning of Pacific Rim and there's a world different of clarity and depth.

I'm very interested in hearing more impressions about the differences. What kind of differences in picture did you notice besides black levels and viewing angles? Is the plasma screen better or worse to watch in a dimly lit room? An LCD can be quite bright at times to watch, is this also the case with plasma?
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post #2813 of 4985 Old 01-17-2014, 05:18 AM
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Sorry to hear that. Best Buy matched me the Frys price tonight with no hesitation and we don't even have a Frys within several hundred miles.


I take it that you did this all in person. Did they call Frys to confirm the sale price?  That was the final roadblock for me last night. 

 

I'm trying to figure out what to expect when I go to pick up / negotiate tonight.  My plan is to show them the dates on both printouts (Frys sale price and my BestBuy order placement) - but right under the $1699.00 price point on the Frys printout, it says: Limit 1 per household [when purchased between 1/12/2014 and 1/16/2014]. 

 

Amazon used both of those points against me (the purchase limit and the timeframe) - so I can't help but expect Best Buy to do the same.

 

I'm looking forward to hearing your impressions as well! Thanks

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post #2814 of 4985 Old 01-17-2014, 05:57 AM
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Originally Posted by SToRM666 View Post

I'm very interested in hearing more impressions about the differences. What kind of differences in picture did you notice besides black levels and viewing angles? Is the plasma screen better or worse to watch in a dimly lit room? An LCD can be quite bright at times to watch, is this also the case with plasma?

I'm still dialing the TV in so it's hard to make absolutes yet. I also have only been able to view it for a few hours. I should have better impressions after the weekend.

There's just a 'difference' between viewing something that emits its own light compared to something that's backlit. I almost want to say the plasma is warmer and more textured, but that would imply that the LCD was lifeless and lacked detail which is certainly not the case. Plasma always has a bit of "alive" picture quality because the display is never static. You pause programming on an LCD and walk up to it, you get a static picture. You pause a plasma and walk up to it, and the picture is still dancing with tiny dots, it's just inherent in the tech. So, it's just "different" and there's not really a judgement of which is better. Ultimatly, the human eye and brain are amazingly adaptable and that type of picture will become the "new normal" after a while.

I also noticed a few very slight uniformity issues under very challenging screen conditions dealing with the edge lit nature of the the display. At first I thought "that's a little disappointing" but then I realized that I was being overly critical because it's not like my ST50 wasn't occasionally challenged by content. Line bleed in plasma is certainly still a 'thing' and noticeable on some content. So, it seemed unfair to let my expectations of PQ get so affected by the edge lit nature of the display when I had already made peace with the picture quirks of my last TV. The same thing comes with fluctuating brightness due to the local dimming and dynamic backlight. It can be noticeable. But then again, so can ABL on plasma.

That's really what it comes down to. Each display has its strengths and weaknesses and having lived with the previous display for so long, the adjustment has already been made to live with the weaknesses of the old display while new weaknesses are more apparent because they are new. That will undergo an adjustment in time.

I haven't done much dim room viewing yet. Initial impression is plasma edges the TV out there, but once you are immersed in the movie, I don't know that you would notice.
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I take it that you did this all in person. Did they call Frys to confirm the sale price?  That was the final roadblock for me last night. 

I'm trying to figure out what to expect when I go to pick up / negotiate tonight.  My plan is to show them the dates on both printouts (Frys sale price and my BestBuy order placement) - but right under the $1699.00 price point on the Frys printout, it says: Limit 1 per household [when purchased between 1/12/2014 and 1/16/2014]. 

Amazon used both of those points against me (the purchase limit and the timeframe) - so I can't help but expect Best Buy to do the same.

I'm looking forward to hearing your impressions as well! Thanks

It was all in person. No, they did not call Frys because we don't have a local Frys. Frys doesn't operate in our region at all. The website was enough. I had to log in with the account I created to view the price, but it received manager approval because it was still in stock. They did have to fill out a ton of paperwork on their end because I guess Sony fines them if they sell below a certain price so they have to prove they are price matching and not just running a normal sale.

As per their price match policy, they shouldn't have given it to me. Explicitly in their policy, they will only price match local prices. But I had nothing to lose by trying and apparently $300 to gain.
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post #2815 of 4985 Old 01-17-2014, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by dbennett1130 View Post

So I just spent the last 4 hours trying and failing to get BOTH Amazon and Best Buy to match Frys $1699 price point.  I am beyond frustrated right now.

Amazon simply would not budge on the grounds that, because it was a 4-day sale, they considered it a "time limited sales event" - which really is hard to argue with, even with the rational that all sales are time limited.  It got to the point where I claimed I knew some of you who had received the price match.  They still refused.  I went up 3 levels of command before giving up.

That sucks. Did you call or chat? I used chat when I got them to PM. Maybe I just got lucky... Good luck with Best Buy tomorrow!!!

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Originally Posted by dbennett1130 View Post

I'm trying to figure out what to expect when I go to pick up / negotiate tonight. My plan is to show them the dates on both printouts (Frys sale price and my BestBuy order placement) - but right under the $1699.00 price point on the Frys printout, it says: Limit 1 per household [when purchased between 1/12/2014 and 1/16/2014].


Amazon used both of those points against me (the purchase limit and the timeframe) - so I can't help but expect Best Buy to do the same.

I'm sure Best Buy has their PM policy clearly published somewhere. You should find it and read it thoroughly, so you can anticipate how they will push back. Are you willing to cancel your order if they don't agree?
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post #2816 of 4985 Old 01-17-2014, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbennett1130 View Post


I take it that you did this all in person. Did they call Frys to confirm the sale price?  That was the final roadblock for me last night. 

I'm trying to figure out what to expect when I go to pick up / negotiate tonight.  My plan is to show them the dates on both printouts (Frys sale price and my BestBuy order placement) - but right under the $1699.00 price point on the Frys printout, it says: Limit 1 per household [when purchased between 1/12/2014 and 1/16/2014]. 

Amazon used both of those points against me (the purchase limit and the timeframe) - so I can't help but expect Best Buy to do the same.

I'm looking forward to hearing your impressions as well! Thanks

Hopefully they won't be even less help since you already bought the tv...
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post #2817 of 4985 Old 01-17-2014, 08:52 AM
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Hello everyone,

 

We haven't owned a TV in years.  After a lot of research and comparing, we set out to pick up Panasonic's ST60 Plasma.  Next to it was our second choice, the w900a.  After comparing the two, we went with the Sony because it was cheaper (Christmas return), uses less energy, and we did not notice any of the old LCD issues like motion blur.  So far, we have been impressed with everything except Netflix.  This application needs a major update!  You cannot adjust picture settings in it and the default settings are over-saturated.

 

Please excuse my ignorance of all things TV, but I have a question.  On this forum, I've seen many people mention cinema picture and game picture, but all that I see on our TV is standard, vivid, and custom.  In the manual and other sites I have only found very basic instructions on setting the picture and would like a little direction.  I've played with the custom settings and have an acceptable picture, but would like to compare the other picture settings.  Where might these other settings be found?

 

If it helps, we only have it hooked up to an antenna and Wi-Fi because we just moved and haven't had a chance to get the new Comcast cable box.

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post #2818 of 4985 Old 01-17-2014, 08:59 AM
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The Sony settings are a bit counter intuitive.

You have to select the top level menu above the picture adjustments. Then you should have a slide in panel from the left for the scene select. If you select Cinema there, THEN you'll see Cinema 1 show up as a picture mode under the picture settings.

So, the scene select is what determines the picture modes you see under the picture settings.
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post #2819 of 4985 Old 01-17-2014, 10:35 AM
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Thank you very much!

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post #2820 of 4985 Old 01-17-2014, 05:08 PM
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FYI, my two pairs of Panasonic 3d glasses from my ST50 sync up fine with the TV. Haven't watched anything in 3d with them yet to see if they differ at all from the Sony glasses, but I'm happy with that. Now I can have 6 people watching 3d at once.
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