Official 2013 LG xxLA7400 Owner's Thread. - Page 45 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1321 of 1349 Old 03-04-2015, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by wfiveash View Post
Recently I noticed that LG issued an update to their “LG TV Remote” iPhone app which was very buggy and made the app basically non-functional. More recently it looks like LG removed that app from the iTunes App Store. Anyone know what is up with this app?

BTW, luckily I was able to restore the previous, working version of the app via Time Machine (and I’ve since realized that iTunes moves the previous versions of updated apps to the trash which allows recovery from a bad update as long as one isn’t too quick to “empty” the trash).
Ah, I see that app has returned (and been updated to fix the connection issue).
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post #1322 of 1349 Old 03-19-2015, 09:05 AM
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Thank- you - I didn't think of ebay just ordered one for 32.99 and Ill make sure it works then put it away and use my keyboard for daily control - that will save the propitiatory control
As promised - if not a bit "Tardy" = The new remote works wonderfully. Yes it has a few odd figures as some of the characters are [non-english] I ordered two more and they arrived today in good condition. These will be put away for future use.

Kind Regards
Sting
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HDTV: LG 47LA7400
Blu-Ray Player: BP530 3D Surround
Keyboard: Logitech K400R
OTA only - Antenna: Ebay junk - [works great]
AV Receiver: Denon AVR 1713 5.1 3D
Center Speaker: Cambridge Audio S50
Front Left Right: Cambridge Audio S70
Surround: Acoustimass® 5 Series II system
Sub-woofer:  Yamaha

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post #1323 of 1349 Old 03-27-2015, 01:01 PM
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Since one of the latest updates I've been experiencing some funky issues with this television...


Some strange side menu was coming up on the left of the screen and I was having difficulty getting it to go away. Somehow the TV got kicked over into Demo/Store mode and I had to go in and manually change it back. I think it's stopped doing that now?


My video settings appear to be switching over to vivid on their own and I have to change it back to Game every time I use it now. Every time I turn the TV on or change the source it keeps flipping back to Vivid video. Not sure about the sound, I pay less attention to that I guess? Should probably check when I get home from work.


The brightness of the TV keeps dimming on me while playing games when it is in Game mode. Brightness settings shouldn't be changing on their own should they? I will pause and go into different menus and I come back to the game and boom it kicks over into the correct brightness again. Then a few minutes later it will slowly dim until it is dark and difficult to see again. Frustrating.


Anyone else experiencing anything like this with the latest firmware updates?
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post #1324 of 1349 Old 03-27-2015, 06:46 PM
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Short answer; no.

Longer answer; I'd try resetting to factory defaults, turning it off, and then turning it back on and redoing my settings to see if they stick. If not, I'd be contacting LG's support. Might ask if poltergeists are covered by their warranty.

Hope you get it sorted.
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post #1325 of 1349 Old 03-27-2015, 11:30 PM
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So uhhh yeah.


considering that everything else had been changed/set to defaults/etc


Checked video settings again and Eco mode was set to Auto.

Changed it to Off and that probably fixed it (Duh)


Haven't checked it yet. Will take a look at it again in the morning to see if anything resets again.
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post #1326 of 1349 Old 03-28-2015, 01:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by splattered View Post
considering that everything else had been changed/set to defaults/etc

Checked video settings again and Eco mode was set to Auto.

Changed it to Off and that probably fixed it (Duh)

Haven't checked it yet. Will take a look at it again in the morning to see if anything resets again.
I was thinking about the "factory reset" under options, but hopefully you've found the culprit. Now that you've mentioned Eco Mode, I've found quite a few posts by people with similar problems and Eco Mode being responsible. Making a note to never use Eco Mode.
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post #1327 of 1349 Old 05-16-2015, 07:22 PM
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Does anybody use the built in apps on the tv such as Netflix or Vudu? The picture looks real soft as if it's not 1080p. The graphics look soft as well. Looks more like 480p.
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post #1328 of 1349 Old 05-17-2015, 01:01 AM
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Does anybody use the built in apps on the tv such as Netflix or Vudu? The picture looks real soft as if it's not 1080p. The graphics look soft as well. Looks more like 480p.
I see no difference between using my TV for Netflix and watching it through my browser, so doubt your TV configuration is the problem.


Online HD streaming is at best a crap shoot, and at worst impossible. Your connection speed, how many connections are sharing your modem, time of day, internet traffic in your area, how your modem and ISP connection handle continuous large data transfers, and whether your ISP throttles your connection while streaming are only a few of the potential problems making it a painful experience. And not all Netflix media is available in HD.


There's plenty of guides on the internet about optimizing your gear and connection, such as this:
http://www.digitaltrends.com/home-th...ng-hd-netflix/


This is where the problems start; Netflix transfers about 1GB/hour of data for standard resolutions, 3GB/hour for HD (720p), and 7GB/hour for Ultra HD (1080p equivalent). Netflix usage is listed here:
https://help.netflix.com/en/node/87


Not many consumer grade modems can handle 7GB/hour data transfers for extended periods of time, and that applies to many ISPs' connections too (you may need to manually reboot your modem every few days or so, and have your ISP reset your connection occasionally). I paid a lot for a good (Draytek) modem, which helped considerably, but I'm still borderline for Ultra HD speeds at just under 10 Mbps.


Haven't used Vudu, but Netflix bandwidth requirements are ridiculous. Considering I can watch NFL games in full HD on NFL Game Pass at their highest setting of 400 Kbps (totalling 4.32 GB of data transfer for 24 hours), Netflix has a long ways to go to become a mature HD source. Good luck!
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post #1329 of 1349 Old 05-17-2015, 07:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dark41 View Post
I see no difference between using my TV for Netflix and watching it through my browser, so doubt your TV configuration is the problem.


Online HD streaming is at best a crap shoot, and at worst impossible. Your connection speed, how many connections are sharing your modem, time of day, internet traffic in your area, how your modem and ISP connection handle continuous large data transfers, and whether your ISP throttles your connection while streaming are only a few of the potential problems making it a painful experience. And not all Netflix media is available in HD.


There's plenty of guides on the internet about optimizing your gear and connection, such as this:
http://www.digitaltrends.com/home-th...ng-hd-netflix/


This is where the problems start; Netflix transfers about 1GB/hour of data for standard resolutions, 3GB/hour for HD (720p), and 7GB/hour for Ultra HD (1080p equivalent). Netflix usage is listed here:
https://help.netflix.com/en/node/87


Not many consumer grade modems can handle 7GB/hour data transfers for extended periods of time, and that applies to many ISPs' connections too (you may need to manually reboot your modem every few days or so, and have your ISP reset your connection occasionally). I paid a lot for a good (Draytek) modem, which helped considerably, but I'm still borderline for Ultra HD speeds at just under 10 Mbps.


Haven't used Vudu, but Netflix bandwidth requirements are ridiculous. Considering I can watch NFL games in full HD on NFL Game Pass at their highest setting of 400 Kbps (totalling 4.32 GB of data transfer for 24 hours), Netflix has a long ways to go to become a mature HD source. Good luck!
My roku 3 has a better image than the built in apps on the tv. I used my tv to watch Vudu because the stereo I have my roku connected to doesn't decode Dolby Digital Plus & the roku won't downstream it to legacy Dolby Digital.
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post #1330 of 1349 Old 08-19-2015, 08:02 AM
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Just setup a new Harmony remote and I have a strange problem. Maybe someone here has an idea. Logitech is trying, but no good solution yet.


I can't reprogram the Volume Up for my LG TV. I've both imported the LG TV settings from wifi detection and a manual add of the device. Model is 55LA7400-TC_03


Here's why I need to do this:



LG Remote
Send Vol. Up - result:
  • LG TV volume increase

Harmony Vol. Up command

Send Vol. Up - result:

  • LG TV volume increase
  • PS Audio P3 Powerplant power off
I can't figure out why an extra command is sent by Harmony. And I can't reprogram the Hub's command for volume up using the physical LG remote. When I aim the LG remote any which way, lights off, it never detects an IR signal!

This is driving me nuts. I did have the PS Audio Powerplant added as a device, but have since removed it. Any ideas?



To clarify:

The default setting for my HARMONY LG TV VOLUME UP command turns off my PS Audio unit.

The actual physical LG remote control does not.

It seems like the Harmony is sending two commands.

I raised inter key from 100ms to 300ms.

I don't have any power plant device in Harmony any longer.

Two things awe me most, the starry sky above me and the moral law within me. IK
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post #1331 of 1349 Old 10-21-2015, 07:22 PM
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Hey Everyone. My 55LA7400 is doing this strange thing where it looks like the display area is split in to 6 vertical sections and each section has a light behind it that is going dim and then bright at random intervals. Has anyone ever seen that before or does anyone have any idea what might be causing this issue?
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post #1332 of 1349 Old 10-21-2015, 07:48 PM
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Here's a video of the problem:

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post #1333 of 1349 Old 10-21-2015, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krope32 View Post
Here's a video of the problem:
Wow, that looks nasty! Haven't seen or heard of it before. Appears to be the signal to the backlighting going crazy (just a guess).

Sorry I can't be of any help, but I would suggest playing with backlighting settings - be interesting to see if it still does it with backlighting set at 0 or 100. I might turn it off and unplug it for a minute to see if it resets. If not, possibly a factory reset (might want to save your settings first), or seeing if there's a software update. Hope you get it sorted.
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post #1334 of 1349 Old 10-22-2015, 08:11 AM
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Here's a video of the problem:
Sorry to see that. Hope mine and others does not start that.
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post #1335 of 1349 Old 10-31-2015, 03:03 PM
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The repair guys said that my power distribution circuitry was going bad and the cost to repair it would be $345. That's not good. So I'm going to wait until I see what kind of black Friday deals come around and see if it might be more worth it to just get a new one. Maybe I'll get to pick up a 4k this time around.
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post #1336 of 1349 Old 11-05-2015, 11:12 AM
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Does anyone know where to get cheaper replacement smart remotes for these TVs? My daughter threw ours in the toilet like a year ago and we've been making due with the phone app and cox remote ever since.


Also, new 5.09.06 update today (I think that was the number?)


Anyone know what was in the update?
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post #1337 of 1349 Old 11-05-2015, 03:13 PM
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Does anyone know where to get cheaper replacement smart remotes for these TVs?
If you're in the USA here's eBay new: $19.99 + shipping:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-LG-AN-MR...YAAOSwA4dWL~Tq

and used $5 + shipping:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LG-Smart-Tv-...sAAOSw5ZBWNL26

Can't help with the software update.
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post #1338 of 1349 Old 03-28-2016, 05:20 PM
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I am seeing black band on my 55 inch TV. It happens on all inputs.

Has anyone faced this problem and found solution?
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post #1339 of 1349 Old 03-29-2016, 05:27 AM
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Originally Posted by LGLA557400 View Post
I am seeing black band on my 55 inch TV. It happens on all inputs.

Has anyone faced this problem and found solution?
Looks very similar to what ycking had, on bottom of page 44 of this thread. Maybe contact him/her and see what they found out?
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post #1340 of 1349 Old 03-29-2016, 07:03 AM
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Looks very similar to what ycking had, on bottom of page 44 of this thread. Maybe contact him/her and see what they found out?
Thanks dark4. The black band on ycking TV looks similar and in same location as my TV.

ycking - I cannot send PM to you. Can you please post if you were able to get it fixed and what the issue was?
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post #1341 of 1349 Old 04-02-2016, 09:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LGLA557400 View Post
I am seeing black band on my 55 inch TV. It happens on all inputs.

Has anyone faced this problem and found solution?
Was going to make a thread but figured I'd check in here first.

This is my 55LA7400:



I too am curious if anyone has any input as to what the issue could be and if it's something that might be relatively easy to repair. Mine started doing this a few years ago actually, but I just dealt with it because it would only happen once in a blue moon. Now I usually have to turn the tv on and off several times before that section stays on. So for me at least it's not a permanent thing (yet). Sometimes it boots up okay on the first try, but more often than not I need to power it on and off.
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post #1342 of 1349 Old 04-06-2016, 02:18 PM
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The black band looks like a panel issue. Luckily I had Square trade warranty on the TV.
Their technician visited and checked the TV. They are going to replace my
TV with a brand new one.
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post #1343 of 1349 Old 08-14-2016, 07:10 PM
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Quick question everyone.

Purchased my 55LA7400 two years ago (plenty out of warranty). About 3 weeks ago after a lightning storm and subsequent power outage the TV starting acting up. It was plugged into a surge protector/power strip during the storm but at some point during the storm Input 1 stopped working. I chalked it up to a bad power strip and just started using input 2 (no biggie). A week or two ago I started getting the black band issue. I would usually power cycle the TV and it would go away. Usually it was center left, sometimes center right but a power cycle would get rid of it.

Tonight I am watching the olympics and the TV just goes dark. The LG icon on the TV was still lit however. When I press the power button via remote or panel the light up front dims and brightens accordingly but the tv is completely black (off) not just dark (on with no signal). I changed inputs, changed power cables, changed outlets, left it turned off for 2+ hours and turned it back on and can't get anything on the screen. Is it shot? I tried to setup and online appointment to have an LG tech come out and it just says "Model is a swap unit" whatever that means. I was going to call them in the morning.
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post #1344 of 1349 Old 08-14-2016, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by darmstrong View Post
Quick question everyone.
Is it shot?.


Sorry to say but, chances are that it's shot.


Surge protectors can help for lightning strikes (none are guaranteed to even do that), but only a UPS will (usually) save devices from power outages and surges when power goes on or off. I don't worry much about cheaper devices, but wouldn't be without a UPS on my media center computer and TV.


Your problems may or may not be related to the power outage, since some of them occurred later. Hope you get it sorted.
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post #1345 of 1349 Old 08-15-2016, 04:01 AM
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Sorry to say but, chances are that it's shot.


Surge protectors can help for lightning strikes (none are guaranteed to even do that), but only a UPS will (usually) save devices from power outages and surges when power goes on or off. I don't worry much about cheaper devices, but wouldn't be without a UPS on my media center computer and TV.


Your problems may or may not be related to the power outage, since some of them occurred later. Hope you get it sorted.
Does LG fix televisions or is this going to be a "lesson learned" that I should have a $60 UPS hooked up to thousands of dollars worth of electronics?
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post #1346 of 1349 Old 08-15-2016, 05:05 AM
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Does LG fix televisions or is this going to be a "lesson learned" that I should have a $60 UPS hooked up to thousands of dollars worth of electronics?


I believe LG is a Korean company?


I can't speak for the USA, but in Australia they'd point me to my retailer first for repairs. And of course retailers don't repair anything, and would point me to their recommended electronics repairer. And the recommended repairer would have a hard time sourcing parts. So it's like chasing your tail.


A good UPS may cost a little more - think around the $100-200 range, and depending upon how much power you need. Good ones will have, and have a history of honoring some sort of "equipment protection policy" - usually in the tens of thousands of dollars range and invaluable if you need it.


You want the UPS capacity to be roughly double what you're drawing from the wall on the battery backup portion to give you time to turn off electronics manually. Double what you're actually using should allow for enough time to manually turn off electronics. The more capacity of the UPS, the longer you have on battery backup.


So for example, if you have 3 outputs on the battery backup and connect the TV, computer, and something else, drawing a total of 500w from the wall, you want the UPS to be around 1000w (not VA, which is misleading) to get a minimum of 7 mins or so. If you're only drawing 200w on the battery backup, a 1000w UPS should get a minimum of 20 mins or so. These times vary considerably, are only intended to give you an idea of what to expect.

Nothing is fool proof with power surges, but a good UPS will be more effective than any power board/surge protector. They're great for PCs (media centers, etc.) as there will be software to automatically shut it down safely after a power outage, for when you're not around. And keep in mind that like all rechargeable batteries, the UPS battery will have a limited life span and limited battery warranty to reflect it (typically 1-3 years, and the electronics portion of the warranty being for much longer and even lifetime.)


My experience is that it's not usually when the power goes out that problems occur, but when it comes back on. Of course there are exceptions. I recommend always turning off expensive electronics as soon as the power goes out for that reason - even with a UPS if possible.


For what it's worth, there's no guarantee that a UPS would have saved your bacon. I see it kind of like locking my car doors and taking the keys out of the ignition. There's no guarantee that my car won't be stolen anyway, but locking the doors and taking the key make my odds that much better. The UPS is an added expense, but easily justifies itself when it works. And this is just one man's opinion. Hope you get it sorted.
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post #1347 of 1349 Old 08-15-2016, 05:21 AM
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[QUOTE=dark41;46059361]I believe LG is a Korean company?


I can't speak for the USA, but in Australia they'd point me to my retailer first for repairs. And of course retailers don't repair anything, and would point me to their recommended electronics repairer. And the recommended repairer would have a hard time sourcing parts. So it's like chasing your tail.


A good UPS may cost a little more - think around the $100-200 range, and depending upon how much power you need. Good ones will have, and have a history of honoring some sort of "equipment protection policy" - usually in the tens of thousands of dollars range and invaluable if you need it.


You want the UPS capacity to be roughly double what you're drawing from the wall on the battery backup portion to give you time to turn off electronics manually. Double what you're actually using should allow for enough time to manually turn off electronics. The more capacity of the UPS, the longer you have on battery backup.


So for example, if you have 3 outputs on the battery backup and connect the TV, computer, and something else, drawing a total of 500w from the wall, you want the UPS to be around 1000w (not VA, which is misleading) to get a minimum of 7 mins or so. If you're only drawing 200w on the battery backup, a 1000w UPS should get a minimum of 20 mins or so. These times vary considerably, are only intended to give you an idea of what to expect.

Nothing is fool proof with power surges, but a good UPS will be more effective than any power board/surge protector. They're great for PCs (media centers, etc.) as there will be software to automatically shut it down safely after a power outage, for when you're not around. And keep in mind that like all rechargeable batteries, the UPS battery will have a limited life span and limited battery warranty to reflect it (typically 1-3 years, and the electronics portion of the warranty being for much longer and even lifetime.)


My experience is that it's not usually when the power goes out that problems occur, but when it comes back on. Of course there are exceptions. I recommend always turning off expensive electronics as soon as the power goes out for that reason - even with a UPS if possible.


For what it's worth, there's no guarantee that a UPS would have saved your bacon. I see it kind of like locking my car doors and taking the keys out of the ignition. There's no guarantee that my car won't be stolen anyway, but locking the doors and taking the key make my odds that much better. The UPS is an added expense, but easily justifies itself when it works. And this is just one man's opinion. Hope you get it sorted.[/QUOTE

Ok. Makes sense. I guess if there is a chance of a thunderstorm and I'm leaving the house it's best to turn the tv off (we leave it on for the dog). I'll do some research into UPS's. So far LG has quoted $305 for an in home repair with a 60 day warranty.
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post #1348 of 1349 Old 08-15-2016, 05:45 AM
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So far LG has quoted $305 for an in home repair with a 60 day warranty.

That's a lot of $ for me. When I convert to AUD it's almost half of what I paid for the TV.


On the other hand, your description has me thinking you'll need quite a few different fixes. I'd be more inclined to pay it if they were guaranteeing that it would all be fixed for that price - and hard to beat in home repair. I'd be contacting them over every little glitch during the 60 day warranty - just in case.
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post #1349 of 1349 Old 08-18-2016, 07:35 AM
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A heads up to anyone with this TV:

So I went ahead and pre-paid for the repair. $305. The person on the phone was very vague and said, "is the screen broken on the TV", I said "no, it is entirely intact, no damage." They advised the LG tech would be out in two days.

Tech arrives, he has a box shipped to my house prior to his arrival. I check the parts numbers on the boxes and it's the same parts I was going to order off eBay for $30, oh well. He replaces two boards (the only two parts inside that even look serviceable). We fire up the TV and the screen is back on, input 1 still works, however.....

Black line down the screen still. More like a shadow actually, similar to what others are having. He advises, "You have a bad panel, they are $1000 to fix and not covered by the 60 day warranty you get for the board repair." He couldn't advise if the bad panel messed up the board or if the bad board messed up my panel.

Needless to say the $305 is gone, my TV works with a black shadow down it and I am beginning to save for a new TV.
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