Official Samsung UNxxF8000 Owners Thread - Page 103 - AVS Forum
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post #3061 of 7412 Old 09-24-2013, 01:36 PM
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Does anyone else have a small amount of light bleed directly under where the television's camera is? It's obviously a result of the camera being there, but I wonder if there's a way to lessen it.
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post #3062 of 7412 Old 09-24-2013, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by westa6969 View Post

In our opinion this panel is a winner until that Holy Grail comes to market and for the price you get alot for your money but those OCD AVS members likely may not ever agree on this forum.

Enjoy your new set! I've been loving my UN75F8000 as well...so much improvement over the 65 inch Aquos I've had since 2007.

I'm sure the F8000 will serve me well until it's time to upgrade to a 80+ inch UHD OLED set!!!
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post #3063 of 7412 Old 09-24-2013, 03:20 PM
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The F8000 is truly the pinnacle of LED technology. It's one of the best "future proof" LED sets until OLED is mildly affordable and more matured. I've been loving my 55" F8000 since the beginning of July.
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post #3064 of 7412 Old 09-25-2013, 07:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bekindrewind View Post

If you're concerned about how a tv's built in speakers sound, look at the Sony 4k set. It has quality speakers built in the front sides.

Believe me, if money were no object I'd buy the top of the line 4k model tomorrow. After seeing it in BB last weekend, I was blown away by the picture. The only thing that makes me feel okay about not getting this type of set is knowing that only a handful of DVDs even take advantage of this technology. Hell, I don't think there are any stations that even do 1080p yet after all these years so to me 4k is a bit of a waste right now.
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post #3065 of 7412 Old 09-25-2013, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AGuy01 View Post

Does anyone else have a small amount of light bleed directly under where the television's camera is? It's obviously a result of the camera being there, but I wonder if there's a way to lessen it.

I haven't noticed any bleed on mine, but I keep the camera closed, don't use it at all. Do you have yours popped up?
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post #3066 of 7412 Old 09-25-2013, 06:47 PM
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No light bleed on mine and the camera is popped up.
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post #3067 of 7412 Old 09-25-2013, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmode11 View Post

I haven't noticed any bleed on mine, but I keep the camera closed, don't use it at all. Do you have yours popped up?

Nope, it's down. You can only see the small bleeding during content that fills the entirety of the screen and against lighter colors, though. With the horizontal bars in widescreen films and Cinema Black, I don't see it at all.
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post #3068 of 7412 Old 09-26-2013, 08:19 AM
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I just saw in the Samsung 4K thread that prices are dropping drastically. Does anyone know if they plan on doing the same for other models, specifically this one (UNxxF8000)? I would hate to finally pull the trigger and then have the price drop the next week.
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post #3069 of 7412 Old 09-26-2013, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Imp View Post

I just saw in the Samsung 4K thread that prices are dropping drastically. Does anyone know if they plan on doing the same for other models, specifically this one (UNxxF8000)? I would hate to finally pull the trigger and then have the price drop the next week.


Same here as I'm going to get one this weekend or if I'm ambitious tomorrow. But I'll get it at Best Buy for the easier return and 30 day price guarantee . . .

Quick question: 60's . . . any panel problems on the 60's or has it really only been the 65's ??

Going to pair a 55 or 60 with the Samsung HW-F550 2.1-Channel 310 Watt Soundbar . . .
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post #3070 of 7412 Old 09-26-2013, 12:42 PM
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Well my 3D went bad on my 2 week old UN65F8000, the 3D worked great the first week & after that I started to see ghosting,crosstalk, etc. on DTV,PS3 movies,games & even the Samsung 3D app, I tryed everything different glasses,called Samsung,full system reset,all the settings in 3D etc...confused.gif I got a replacement coming on Tuesday & will try one more time...the bad thing is the tv was great other than the 3D problem...just hope the replacement will be ok...if not i'm going to try another brand...dang rolleyes.gif
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post #3071 of 7412 Old 09-26-2013, 09:38 PM
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Hey guys, been following the forums for a while but I finally have a question so I registered!

 

I just bought this TV today from my Future Shop. I got the 55". After all the updating and app installing. I set up my PS3 for the new TV video settings, and then I threw in GTA V and I noticed it was somewhat choppy. Also switching the source to the PS3 it would say 1280x720, but on the PS3 homescreen it would say 1920x1080. I bought this cable:

http://www.futureshop.ca/en-ca/product/monster-monster-2-7m-9-ft-hdmi-cable-isf1250-hd-9-efs-mc-isf1250-hd-9-efs/10218693.aspx?path=0552551da3fbd3b759aaf990fdd40d42en02

For the future 4K evo kit, 3D etc. So my question is, could it be my TV? I haven't touched any of the picture settings either, as I could not find the "optimal" user discovered ones in this thread.

 

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks!

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post #3072 of 7412 Old 09-26-2013, 10:35 PM
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The PS3 and Xbox 360 render most of their games at native 720p. The 360 outputs a constant 1080p feed of 720p graphics whereas the PS3 will actively switch over to outputting 720p instead of the 1080p for the main menu. It's not the cable or the TV, it's just the nature of the way 8 year old gaming consoles have to work.

As far as stuttering during gameplay goes could be due to Auto Motion Plus. To get rid of the stuttering and optimize the TV for gaming and reduce input lag, go to Settings > System > General > Game Mode > On and that will have Game Mode enabled for ONLY the PS3 and not any other source like your cable box or BluRay player. You will have to reconfigure your picture settings for the PS3 once you switch over to Game Mode for it. I recommend putting Sharpness on 0 or up to 15. Anything higher will introduce unwanted "haloing" effects around fine detail and will actually reduce definition. If you're on a BluRay or PC or anything with native 1080p content, leave Sharpness at 0.
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post #3073 of 7412 Old 09-27-2013, 06:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pgershon View Post

ARC Audio and other Home Theater Connection Issues

At my wits end trying to connect DVR, Samsung F8000 and Sony audio receiver. Two configurations possible: (1) DVR -> Samsung -> Receiver or (2) DVR -> Receiver -> Samsung.

On (1): Samsung tech support tells you to go this way. DVR connects to HDMI 1 and HDMI 3 connects to TV input on receiver. Generally functional, except Samsung is not passing 5.1 sound to the receiver despite ARC. ARC is lit on receiver, so in theory this is workimg, but receiver is only getting two sound channels on all stations. I have combed this thread and it is unclear to me if anybody has successfully passed 5.1 sound from an external input, through the F8000, and to the external receiver. May not be possible either on optical or HDMI. If someone has been successful, please speak up.

On (2) Hooking DVR to SAT/DVR input on receiver and TV on receiver to HDMI 3 on F8000 works at first and generates 5.1 sound. Using same channel on DVR so I know 5.1 is working because (2) gets it, so (1) must be a passthrough problem. Problem I have is that when I turn TV and receiver off, something seems to go wrong in HDMI handshake. When I power TV back on, it goes directly to HDMI 3 (it should) but then it puts the receiver into TV mode (instead of Sat/DVR). actively overriding my setting. When I switch receiver back to Sat / DVR. there is no output coming from the TV port on receiver to HDMI 3 on the F8000. I must unplug F8000 AND either unplug receiver or reset receiver to clear thr issue and fix.

I believe that the F8000 has been out long enough that others must have encountered these issues. While it could be a compatibility problem with my Sony receiver, there may be something else happening. Is there something else I should do to enable passthrough of 5.1 audio over ARC from an external HDMI source (it works fine from the internal Samsung apps liek netflix)? Alternatively, is there some trick to getting over the handshaking issues that are causing the HDMI connection to fail when I pass video over HDMI from receiver to F8000?

(asked also on another thread)

I have the Sony STR DN840 receiver and the Samsung UN60F8000. I tried to get ARC to work but it was hit or miss. The handshaking between the devices were not consistent and it was driving me crazy. Just to make sure my old HDMI 1.3 cables weren't the issue I bought 3 Samsung CY-SHC1020D High-Speed HDMI Cables (2 cables for BluRay DVD and Cable Box into receiver, and one cable from receiver to TV). The cables didn't make a difference. When ARC did work, I had an issue of the TV turning the receiver to the wrong input when I powered on the system. My cable box was plugged into the Sat/CabTV input on the receiver and when I turned the system on it would always switch the receiver to the TV input.

The configuration I settled on was:

HDMI -
BluRay DVD to Receiver
Cable Box to Receiver
Receiver to TV

Digital Coax -
From TV to Receiver

I would have loved to have been able to use ARC so I didn't need the extra cable but it just wasn't consistent. I've considered trying again since I've have software updates for both my TV and receiver.
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post #3074 of 7412 Old 09-27-2013, 08:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sk1593 View Post

I have the Sony STR DN840 receiver and the Samsung UN60F8000. I tried to get ARC to work but it was hit or miss. The handshaking between the devices were not consistent and it was driving me crazy. Just to make sure my old HDMI 1.3 cables weren't the issue I bought 3 Samsung CY-SHC1020D High-Speed HDMI Cables (2 cables for BluRay DVD and Cable Box into receiver, and one cable from receiver to TV). The cables didn't make a difference. When ARC did work, I had an issue of the TV turning the receiver to the wrong input when I powered on the system. My cable box was plugged into the Sat/CabTV input on the receiver and when I turned the system on it would always switch the receiver to the TV input.

The configuration I settled on was:

HDMI -
BluRay DVD to Receiver
Cable Box to Receiver
Receiver to TV

Digital Coax -
From TV to Receiver

I would have loved to have been able to use ARC so I didn't need the extra cable but it just wasn't consistent. I've considered trying again since I've have software updates for both my TV and receiver.

Samsung only passes stereo for the ARC connection unless you are using the Smart TV apps like Netflix or VUDU, so you are not missing much if you want 5.1 stereo anyway. You may have to sort out the remote options in the TV settings because it will power off and on equipment if the TV recognizes it and you are using the IR blaster. At work, so I can't exactly give you the menu locations. You might have to turn off the HDMI control options also, which can screw with things too. Took me a while to figure this out, but the info is in the TV manual. You can download a PDF from the Samsung site if you don't want to view it on the TV itself.
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post #3075 of 7412 Old 09-27-2013, 11:41 AM
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Just got my UN65F8000 yesterday. Took a quick snap of it with the phone. Played a bit with the picture settings merely by sight. Might think about a professional calibration when everything is fully broken in. But for now....


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post #3076 of 7412 Old 09-27-2013, 12:10 PM
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How have folks addressed any audio sync issues when using ARC?

I had my TV setup for awhile with my cable box going straight to the TV the used ARC to return audio to the receiver. I could never get the audio to stay in sync. I tired tweaking the digital delay, but I could never seem to get it quite right.

I have a Onkyo NR-818 receiver. Is there some tricks for this?

-SiGGy
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post #3077 of 7412 Old 09-27-2013, 06:44 PM
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I am also having the same issue with the external speaker volume alert you describe.  When I did the Sonos Playbar install there was a brief window that popped suggesting there would be a way to stop this alert but it never presented itself.  I have not been able to find anything on audio set-up screens.

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post #3078 of 7412 Old 09-27-2013, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ucsdsig View Post

Congratulations! Nice to see another UN75F8000 owner! I've been thoroughly enjoying my set over the past few weeks.

Out of curiosity, can you let me know how the settings on your calibrated set compare to the settings posted by buzzard on page 1 of this thread? Thanks.

Greetings, all..

Here are the calibration settings for Movie, and Cal-day modes. Robert Zohn at Value Electronics told me those are the two modes calibrated as opposed to cal-day and cal-night, because there was some issue with cal-night mode which made it difficult to calibrate. Whatever the issue was, Robert said it was a known issue and that he has brought it up with Samsung.

Movie/Cal--Day

Backlight: 5/12

Contrast: 95/95

Brightness: 46/46

Sharpness: (was set at 25 for some reason. I reset to 0/0)

Color: 50/50

Tint (G/R): 50/50 / 50/50

Dynamic Contrast: Off/Off

Black Tone: Off/Off

Flesh tone: 0/0

RGB Only Mode: Off/Off

Color Space: Custom/Custom

Color: Red
Red: 48/48
Green: 0/0
Blue: 0/0

Color: Green
Red: 24/24
Green: 43/43
Blue: 0/0


Color: Blue
Red: 0/0
Green: 14/14
Blue: 38/38

Color: Yellow
Red: 64/64
Green: 45/45
Blue: 0/0

Color: Cyan
Red:19/19
Green: 46/46
Blue: 47/47


Color: Magenta
Red: 51//51
Green: 11/11
Blue: 43/43

White Balance:
R-Offset: 25/25
G-Offset: 25/25
B-Offset : 25/25
R-Gain: 25/9
G-Gain: 25/25
B-Gain: 25/4

10 Point White Balance: On/On
Interval: 1/1
Red: -1/+1
Green: -1/0
Blue: -2/-1

Gamma: -2/-2

Phew!! eek.gif

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post #3079 of 7412 Old 09-28-2013, 12:13 AM
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Hi all.

I've 55F8000.

I'm using PC mode on my PS3.

Can anyone give me a good calibration setting values for pc mode?

I will soon buy a PS4 and i think I will use PC mode for reduced imput lag and for 4:4:1.

What do you think about?

Thanks.

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post #3080 of 7412 Old 09-28-2013, 01:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlarose View Post

Hey guys, been following the forums for a while but I finally have a question so I registered!

I just bought this TV today from my Future Shop. I got the 55". After all the updating and app installing. I set up my PS3 for the new TV video settings, and then I threw in GTA V and I noticed it was somewhat choppy. Also switching the source to the PS3 it would say 1280x720, but on the PS3 homescreen it would say 1920x1080. I bought this cable:
http://www.futureshop.ca/en-ca/product/monster-monster-2-7m-9-ft-hdmi-cable-isf1250-hd-9-efs-mc-isf1250-hd-9-efs/10218693.aspx?path=0552551da3fbd3b759aaf990fdd40d42en02
For the future 4K evo kit, 3D etc. So my question is, could it be my TV? I haven't touched any of the picture settings either, as I could not find the "optimal" user discovered ones in this thread.

Any help is appreciated.
Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRN94 View Post

The PS3 and Xbox 360 render most of their games at native 720p. The 360 outputs a constant 1080p feed of 720p graphics whereas the PS3 will actively switch over to outputting 720p instead of the 1080p for the main menu. It's not the cable or the TV, it's just the nature of the way 8 year old gaming consoles have to work.

As far as stuttering during gameplay goes could be due to Auto Motion Plus. To get rid of the stuttering and optimize the TV for gaming and reduce input lag, go to Settings > System > General > Game Mode > On and that will have Game Mode enabled for ONLY the PS3 and not any other source like your cable box or BluRay player. You will have to reconfigure your picture settings for the PS3 once you switch over to Game Mode for it. I recommend putting Sharpness on 0 or up to 15. Anything higher will introduce unwanted "haloing" effects around fine detail and will actually reduce definition. If you're on a BluRay or PC or anything with native 1080p content, leave Sharpness at 0.

Are you new into PS3/console gaming?, most 30fps games are choppy! and switching resolution is normal. see post #9664: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1397245/official-panasonic-st50-series-discussion-thread-no-street-price-talk/9664
Don't use Game Mode and/or PC Mode, use Standard to give you the (Auto) Motion Plus: Blur Reduction and Judder Reduction adjustments.
With GTA V, BR=4 and JR=8 gives me the best lag vs smoothing PQ gaming! You can finetune it to your own preference.
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post #3081 of 7412 Old 09-28-2013, 01:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iBrad View Post



Are you new into PS3/console gaming?, most 30fps games are choppy! and switching resolution is normal. see post #9664: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1397245/official-panasonic-st50-series-discussion-thread-no-street-price-talk/9664
Don't use Game Mode and/or PC Mode, use Standard to give you the (Auto) Motion Plus: Blur Reduction and Judder Reduction adjustments.
With GTA V, BR=4 and JR=8 gives me the best lag vs smoothing PQ gaming! You can finetune it to your own preference.

I'ts the first time I use PS3 on such type of TV.

I play some single player on PS3 but a lot of fast paced multiplayer games (Like BF3 and BF4 soon), so I need acceptable imput lag and the best image quality and smooth gaming I can.

Can you tell me all I need to do for that? Thanks

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post #3082 of 7412 Old 09-28-2013, 02:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monciccio View Post

I'ts the first time I use PS3 on such type of TV.
I play some single player on PS3 but a lot of fast paced multiplayer games (Like BF3 and BF4 soon), so I need acceptable imput lag and the best image quality and smooth gaming I can.
Can you tell me all I need to do for that? Thanks

Then you'll need to do some experiments yourself: http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/input-lag
PC hdmi mode is already the fastest/lowest input lage mode due all PQ enhancers are disabled, but for me it was useless with 30fps games due the framedoubling stutter.

So I use Standard mode, disable all other enhancers except (Auto) Motion Plus:
Blur Reduction adjustment is to reduce the blur/ghosting of moving objects, for 30fps games the 0-4 are the best as otherwise the framedoubling appears more clearly, input lag not increased noticeable here.
Judder Reduction adjustment is to reduce judder/stuttering of any motions on screen by interpoluting/smoothing extra frames, gives overall spedup (Soap Opera Effect) screen motions.
Best for 30fps games to reduce framedoubling and spedup the gameframes like a 60fps game, the extra interpoluting causing extra input lag time, the higher the JR the higher input lag but smoother motions (occassional more apparent/enhanced stutter/hiccups/choppiness depends on the game 30fps choppiness/smoothness itself).

So do you own adjustments what is best for yourself!
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post #3083 of 7412 Old 09-28-2013, 03:48 AM
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Goodness no, you do not want to use standard picture modes if you want to play any kind of fast paced or twitch game. Your input lag will be far too high, between 80-100ms. And while de-judder does help the presentation of low framerate games, it tends to introduce distracting visual artifacts around objects. The only time I'll use a standard picture mode and Auto Motion Plus is when the game doesn't require player precision and speed.

Monciccio, just enable Game Mode with Smart LED enabled and you're mostly golden. Game Mode and PC Mode are comparable now in terms of input lag, with the former having the advantage of a few more picture options and deeper, consistent blacks thanks to Smart LED.

The F8000 really doesn't require that much adjusting. My general settings for most picture modes are as follows:

Backlight: 8 (night), 10-12 (day)
Contrast: 95
Brightness: 45
Sharpness: 0 or 15 (user preference; I like a little bit but most people don't)
Dynamic Contrast: Off or Low (again user preference)
Black Tone: Off (crushes shadow detail, but I sometimes don't mind setting to to the lowest value for a little extra pop; user preference?)
Gamma: -1
Smart LED: Standard

For film content, I use Movie Mode with a color temperature of Warm1 (Warm2 is supposedly more accurate but I find it to look too yellow) and Auto Motion Plus set to Custom (Blur 10, Judder 0, LED Clear Motion enabled for a total motion resolution of 1,200 lines).

Most everything else I just left as is. You don't have to touch the color or white point settings unless you really want to fine tune everything, which I personally don't find necessary at all.
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post #3084 of 7412 Old 09-28-2013, 03:29 PM
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Hey guys Im new to the forum and I need your help. I purchased the 55f8000 maybe 1.5 months ago. A couple weeks in I noticed that about 20 seconds after turning my TV on the picture blanks out for a split second. I think people in the past have called this the blinking issue. When i first got the tv this blinking only happened once or twice every 3 days. Now it seems to happen at least once a day. Its not a big problem but I do not want it to get worse, especially since i just spent $2500 on this TV. Im using HDMI and i have a samsung soundbar plugged inthrough ARC. I also have had the 1111 f/w version.

Has anyone else encountered this issue?
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post #3085 of 7412 Old 09-28-2013, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moonhawk View Post

Greetings, all..

Here are the calibration settings for Movie, and Cal-day modes. Robert Zohn at Value Electronics told me those are the two modes calibrated as opposed to cal-day and cal-night, because there was some issue with cal-night mode which made it difficult to calibrate. Whatever the issue was, Robert said it was a known issue and that he has brought it up with Samsung.

Movie/Cal--Day

Backlight: 5/12

Contrast: 95/95

Brightness: 46/46

Sharpness: (was set at 25 for some reason. I reset to 0/0)

Color: 50/50

Tint (G/R): 50/50 / 50/50

Dynamic Contrast: Off/Off

Black Tone: Off/Off

Flesh tone: 0/0

RGB Only Mode: Off/Off

Color Space: Custom/Custom

Color: Red
Red: 48/48
Green: 0/0
Blue: 0/0

Color: Green
Red: 24/24
Green: 43/43
Blue: 0/0


Color: Blue
Red: 0/0
Green: 14/14
Blue: 38/38

Color: Yellow
Red: 64/64
Green: 45/45
Blue: 0/0

Color: Cyan
Red:19/19
Green: 46/46
Blue: 47/47


Color: Magenta
Red: 51//51
Green: 11/11
Blue: 43/43

White Balance:
R-Offset: 25/25
G-Offset: 25/25
B-Offset : 25/25
R-Gain: 25/9
G-Gain: 25/25
B-Gain: 25/4

10 Point White Balance: On/On
Interval: 1/1
Red: -1/+1
Green: -1/0
Blue: -2/-1

Gamma: -2/-2

Phew!! eek.gif

Thanks for taking the time to list the settings. Interesting how the color space values differ so much from buzzard's settings.

One thing though, in the 10 point white balance, there are 10 different interval settings. You only have 1 out of the 10 listed.

Hope you're enjoying your set!
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post #3086 of 7412 Old 09-28-2013, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by ucsdsig View Post

Interesting how the color space values differ so much from buzzard's settings.

It's because every display is different from the others, including the next one off the assembly line. That, is why calibration exists.

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post #3087 of 7412 Old 09-28-2013, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by AGuy01 View Post

Goodness no, you do not want to use standard picture modes if you want to play any kind of fast paced or twitch game. Your input lag will be far too high, between 80-100ms. And while de-judder does help the presentation of low framerate games, it tends to introduce distracting visual artifacts around objects. The only time I'll use a standard picture mode and Auto Motion Plus is when the game doesn't require player precision and speed.

Monciccio, just enable Game Mode with Smart LED enabled and you're mostly golden. Game Mode and PC Mode are comparable now in terms of input lag, with the former having the advantage of a few more picture options and deeper, consistent blacks thanks to Smart LED.

The F8000 really doesn't require that much adjusting. My general settings for most picture modes are as follows:

Backlight: 8 (night), 10-12 (day)
Contrast: 95
Brightness: 45
Sharpness: 0 or 15 (user preference; I like a little bit but most people don't)
Dynamic Contrast: Off or Low (again user preference)
Black Tone: Off (crushes shadow detail, but I sometimes don't mind setting to to the lowest value for a little extra pop; user preference?)
Gamma: -1
Smart LED: Standard

For film content, I use Movie Mode with a color temperature of Warm1 (Warm2 is supposedly more accurate but I find it to look too yellow) and Auto Motion Plus set to Custom (Blur 10, Judder 0, LED Clear Motion enabled for a total motion resolution of 1,200 lines).

Most everything else I just left as is. You don't have to touch the color or white point settings unless you really want to fine tune everything, which I personally don't find necessary at all.

Just had my F8000 75" brought in today and so far I am in absolute love with it! I found your post extremely helpful, but did have a couple questions. This is my TV in the movie/game room, so it sees a lot of DirecTV, Blu-Ray movies, and a ton of Xbox360 with a little PS3/PC-gaming (and plenty of Xbox One/PS4 in November).

Based on your notes above, it may not be necessary to have my theater guy out to calibrate, but I do have questions on what you laid out here, hope you don't mind me asking all this. smile.gif
Quote:
you do not want to use standard picture modes if you want to play any kind of fast paced or twitch game. Your input lag will be far too high, between 80-100ms. And while de-judder does help the presentation of low framerate games, it tends to introduce distracting visual artifacts around objects. The only time I'll use a standard picture mode and Auto Motion Plus is when the game doesn't require player precision and speed.

I play a wide variety of games, pretty much all major AAA's and then unique/indie/etc. But they range from RPG, Action, FPS to Sports...pretty much everything. So when asking these questions I guess it's in the context of what is the best setup for the majority of my gaming. The only real multiplayer I do is BF3 and BF4 when it comes out, otherwise it's mostly SP or co-op in Diablo3, Borderlands 2, etc.

So that being said, when you say you only use standard picture mode and Auto Motion Plus is when it doesn't require precision/speed - do you find yourself changing TV settings regularly based on what game you're playing?
Quote:
Monciccio, just enable Game Mode with Smart LED enabled and you're mostly golden. Game Mode and PC Mode are comparable now in terms of input lag, with the former having the advantage of a few more picture options and deeper, consistent blacks thanks to Smart LED.

I can't find this "Game Mode" anywhere on the F8000. Am I missing something? Also, when you are gaming which picture mode do you use? Are you making all of these setting changes to "Standard"?

I think I understand the rest of your settings and I'm going to try those out, but I wanted to understand which modes you're making changes to out of the 4 available (Dynamic, Standard, Natural and Movie), before I go mucking about.

Thanks again in advance!
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post #3088 of 7412 Old 09-28-2013, 10:02 PM
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Also, while I wait for a response from AGuy01 up above, I had to ask separately...but where in the world is this "Game Mode" that everyone is talking about on this TV? Is it only available on the smaller units (55/65)? I have the 75" and I cannot for the life of me find a Game Mode...anywhere. It's maddening! smile.gif
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post #3089 of 7412 Old 09-28-2013, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by ucsdsig View Post

Thanks for taking the time to list the settings. Interesting how the color space values differ so much from buzzard's settings.

One thing though, in the 10 point white balance, there are 10 different interval settings. You only have 1 out of the 10 listed.

Hope you're enjoying your set!



Oh, OK, I'll check that out-- I'm not totally familiar with the menu navigation yet, so I probably overlooked that. I guess I'll need to select interval, then pick which one I want to view?

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post #3090 of 7412 Old 09-28-2013, 11:11 PM
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@rsheehan

Game Mode is kind of buried. Hit Menu on your remote, then scroll down to System (second from the bottom), then scroll down to General and it will be in there.

I don't find myself changing my TV settings that often. I have both Movie and Game Mode using the same general settings listed above, and so the most I do now is just disable or enable Game Mode depending on whether I'm playing a game or not. If I'm playing something that runs at a high frame rate and doesn't require speed or precision, such as a Japanese RPG or maybe a simple platformer where I can compensate for the input lag (Rayman Legends), then I'll disable Game Mode and go back to the regular picture modes with Auto Motion Plus enabled. At a high framerate, de-blur really helps with image quality. At lower framerates, de-judder helps more than de-blur, but that introduces some nasty visual artifacts that may be more distracting than motion blur.
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