Official Samsung UNxxF8000 Owners Thread - Page 235 - AVS Forum
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post #7021 of 7690 Old 05-14-2014, 04:27 AM
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Originally Posted by konigsberg7 View Post

What about those bright rooms man. Id be all over a f8500 if it wasnt for bright rooms. 
The F8500 has a very aggressive filter for bright rooms and can also get brighter then any other plasma that has been made. The F8000 as well as most other LEDs have a ton of glare in bright rooms.

I owned an es7500 and now own a Panasonic VT60. The filter on the VT60 is better then my es7500 was and does a better job of handling daytime reflections then the LED did. The F8500 has an even better filter then my VT60.

If anyone is still shopping around for a TV, I would definitley put the F8500 on my short list, even in a bright room.
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post #7022 of 7690 Old 05-14-2014, 05:45 AM
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@Q56_Monster
?? I own both & F8500 is no more reflective than the F8000. In fact, 8500 is less reflective than it's led sibling!
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post #7023 of 7690 Old 05-14-2014, 04:18 PM
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Should I get the UNF8000 or UNF9000?

What's the big difference and which one is better? All I care about is good picture quality for movies/cable. No gaming.
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post #7024 of 7690 Old 05-14-2014, 05:09 PM
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This is been bugging me. I know you can replay the initial startup video that plays when you first get your TV. Does anyone remember how? 

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post #7025 of 7690 Old 05-14-2014, 06:54 PM
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^perform a reset
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post #7026 of 7690 Old 05-14-2014, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by kakashi08 View Post

Should I get the UNF8000 or UNF9000?

What's the big difference and which one is better? All I care about is good picture quality for movies/cable. No gaming.

I've you've read ANYTHING at all on the subject, it should be pretty clear. The "big difference" is that the 9000 is a 4K TV (aka "UHD: Ultra High Definition"). So of course, technically speaking, it is better.

But its also a ridiculous waste of money. There is NO 4K broadcasting and no 4K movies that you can buy/rent, and there won't be for a very, very long time (if ever). Unless you're also going to buy yourself the top-end GoPro camera and watch a ton of your own ludicrously high definition home videos... why in the world would you bother?
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post #7027 of 7690 Old 05-14-2014, 07:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s_mack View Post


I've you've read ANYTHING at all on the subject, it should be pretty clear. The "big difference" is that the 9000 is a 4K TV (aka "UHD: Ultra High Definition"). So of course, technically speaking, it is better.

But its also a ridiculous waste of money. There is NO 4K broadcasting and no 4K movies that you can buy/rent, and there won't be for a very, very long time (if ever). Unless you're also going to buy yourself the top-end GoPro camera and watch a ton of your own ludicrously high definition home videos... why in the world would you bother?

I disagree. While it's true there is a limited selection of content right now, the prices for 4K have gone down a lot, I just looked at Amazon and the 55" F8000 is $2300, I can get the 55" HU8550 for $200 more. 

 

Bit more of a price disparity on the 65", $2800 vs $3500. Still, if you plan on keeping your set for more than 3 years, it seems worthwhile to spend the extra $700 to go 4K. 

 

I'm guessing by 2015 or 2016 1080p models will be mostly phased out except at the low end, and we'll have much more 4K content by then IMO.

 

Also if you plan on hooking up your TV to your HTPC for gaming or whatever you can take advantage of 4K now.

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post #7028 of 7690 Old 05-14-2014, 08:15 PM
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Admittedly, I should have looked at pricing before responding. I hadn't realized 4K had fallen so rapidly. I still maintain its a waste to pay more for it though. Content is, and will remain, negligible to completely absent to the question asker (who specified "movies and cable")
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post #7029 of 7690 Old 05-14-2014, 08:35 PM
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The 60" is also $2300. The F8000 arguably displays 1080p content better with no added artifacts due to up scaling. Also the f8000 has less input lag. But it's personal preference.

I'm going to wait a few years before getting a 4k tv.
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post #7030 of 7690 Old 05-15-2014, 05:22 PM
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Higher resolution is great. Just remember it's mostly marketing hype because the human eye, even 20/20 vision, is not good at resolving detail at much of any distance. Therefore a 60" true 4K picture will only look better if you're 7 feet away or less. Same thing as, in the past, looking at a SD CRT from enough distance...the snow and lack of detail disappear and it looks good. Resolution versus viewing distance are what you want to consider before you spend any extra money.
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post #7031 of 7690 Old 05-16-2014, 11:46 AM
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Hello, just bought a 55" F8005(Nordic version I guess) and having trouble finding a good calibration setup. Tried several ones but everyone seems so dark and grey. I'm looking for richer and brighter colours. I'm not very good at what all the options do and what should be turned on or off. And people have very different opinions.

But hopefully someone can help me with some ideas :)

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post #7032 of 7690 Old 05-16-2014, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t4life View Post

Hello, just bought a 55" F8005(Nordic version I guess) and having trouble finding a good calibration setup. Tried several ones but everyone seems so dark and grey. I'm looking for richer and brighter colours. I'm not very good at what all the options do and what should be turned on or off. And people have very different opinions.
But hopefully someone can help me with some ideas smile.gif
The problem with following rec'd owner calibrations here or CNET is if you have a preference for Bright Vibrant PQ versus Cinema you'll often get trashed here for your own preference as being Dynamic. I have never posted my settings here because they run contrary to the calibration measurement so-called Cinema lovers here but it's my money and I'm not looking to be a Cinema Lemming Schmuck.

I've calibrated precisely as recommend here and CNET for my 65F8000 and 60D8000 and I also found them to be dim, dark, grey and dull/boring and with haze - similar to your description.

What I've done is simply repeatedly tweak them towards being brighter and more vibrant and colorful and the best blacks I can pull through to prevent screen haze - too much brightness will replicate a haze. Implement the calibration and then tweak them to your EYES content. Try all the settings and if you like Dynamic (especially if you have bright daylight in your room) in your home use it - we don't need to tell the calibrator police. If you wanted duller, dimmer, darker you could've bought a plasma.biggrin.gif

Samsung 65F8000, 60D8000, 40HU6350, Panasonic 50E60 LCD's
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post #7033 of 7690 Old 05-16-2014, 02:18 PM
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Hey, I don't think anyone would argue that YOUR PREFERENCE is YOUR PREFERENCE. You like what you like, then go for it. No harm, no foul. I don't think any "calibration police" would get on your case for that... its when you then throw the word "calibrate" into it. Now that's your bad, not theirs. The word actually means something. It means adjusting to a known "correct" value. If you PREFER your picture to be "incorrect" then that's fine. But don't go looking for "calibration" settings for an incorrect result.

And yes I am using "correct" properly. It is NOT about opinion or taste. Its about recreating what the content is intended to look like from source through to consumption. A very specific color profile is used at one end and is intended at the other.

I personally don't think calibration is necessary for MY TASTES with this TV. I've yet to find anything that looks better TO ME other than the default settings. With that said, I can appreciate that for people who really want to see it as intended, then "calibration" - respecting its defintion - is required.

Another example is screen fit. Say you're watching something filmed in 4:3. Do you stretch it to 16:9 or do you watch it native? (rhetorical question) Some people prefer it stretched because they don't like the black bars. Well, that is an INCORRECT image. It wasn't meant to be shown that way. You prefer it, fine... but its distorting the image so you're watching, basically, a different show then was being broadcast. YOU are not wrong for doing it, but the picture is incorrect.
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post #7034 of 7690 Old 05-16-2014, 05:22 PM
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Fair and accurate reply, s_mack. Personally, I don't see how anyone can stand to eat brussel sprouts, but...............
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post #7035 of 7690 Old 05-16-2014, 10:41 PM
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Hello I am new to the forum and I need your help 
I have the Samsung f8000 55 'and My younger brother installed a wrong firmware.
installed the smart f8000 75 kit 3d interaction

now my tv 55 has a blink when active 3d 
with and without glasses 3d

Can I reinstall the correct firmware for my tv f8000?
I Try it but not allowed me to reinstall
The firmware is 1120.2 April 8

when will get a new upgrade samsung?

Thanks for the help you can give me
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post #7036 of 7690 Old 05-16-2014, 11:50 PM
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Thanks for the replys. I can only say for me, I kinda like it a little more brighter than all the settings I tried. I want the colours to live more.

So if I turn Dynamic Contrast on, is there any negative effect for me?

 

I have looked at several calibration settings and many of the options are not so different. Most people seem to have same similiar options when it comes to Picture Mode and Picture Setting menus.

 

The most options that vary are:

 

Dynamic Contrast
Color Space
White Balance
10p White Balance

Cinema Black

Auto Motion

 

Is there any point to make a custom setup for Color Space, White Balance and 10p White Balance when you dont have calibration tools like the most setups are created after?

 

Many people have Film Mode set to Auto 2. What is this options for? It's greyed out for me.

 

Thanks :)

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post #7037 of 7690 Old 05-17-2014, 05:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saulong View Post

Hello I am new to the forum and I need your help 
I have the Samsung f8000 55 'and My younger brother installed a wrong firmware.
installed the smart f8000 75 kit 3d interaction

now my tv 55 has a blink when active 3d 
with and without glasses 3d

Can I reinstall the correct firmware for my tv f8000?
I Try it but not allowed me to reinstall
The firmware is 1120.2 April 8

when will get a new upgrade samsung?

Thanks for the help you can give me

You can always go to the menu and do the factory reset.

Samsung UN75F8000 LED TV, NAD T-777 (7.2 Receiver), Oppo 103, Sony PS4, Panamax MR-5100, 7 Paradigm Reference series 8" in ceiling speakers (AMS-150R) - 30 degree tilting speakers, 2 Paradigm SE Sub, universal remote MX-450, universal advanced RF base station MRF-3501.
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post #7038 of 7690 Old 05-17-2014, 10:28 AM
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For anyone sitting on the fence.. Amazon is running out of the 65" (showing 13 left), and the have knocked another $400 off the price . . .

Don't ever make the MISTAKE of buying a Samsung TV..
They consider
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normal on a two month old set..
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post #7039 of 7690 Old 05-17-2014, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by WS65711 View Post

This is kinda what I mean...

I saw a PetMed commercial during a show that I was watching on my 65" a few days ago. I'm not sure if this is the exact same commercial or not, but it has the same (or similar) blue portion across the bottom of the screen during the last several seconds. When I first saw the commercial on my F8000 I was shocked.. because all of a sudden I was seeing VERTICAL BANDING on my screen (in that blue portion) near the bottom. I went into semi-panic mode and pulled out my AVS calibration BluRay, but thankfully everything looked fine there. So then I went to the computer and found the (or similar) PetMed commercial. When I loaded the stinkin' commercial on my computer I could detect SIMILAR BANDING on my computer screen as I saw on my TV. Look closely at the picture below, or better yet look at the Youtube video full screen on your monitor.

So the moral of the story is... If you're looking at something other than a calibration disk you don't REALLY know what you're looking at, or how it was made, or what processing or compression was involved before it ever got to your precious screen . . .

YMMV




Looks like a computer feed. Highly compressed feeds compared to FIOS or cable. Try watching the same commercial on your cable or satellite feed. Doubt you will see the same banding.
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post #7040 of 7690 Old 05-17-2014, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by theroys88 View Post

Looks like a computer feed. Highly compressed feeds compared to FIOS or cable. Try watching the same commercial on your cable or satellite feed. Doubt you will see the same banding.

You obviously didn't read (or maybe understand) my post. I first saw the commercial while watching hi-def cable TV. The banding in the blue area near the bottom of the display actually seemed much worse in the televised image. I went to find the commercial on the internet only after first seeing it (with the banding) on TV.

Don't ever make the MISTAKE of buying a Samsung TV..
They consider
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normal on a two month old set..
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post #7041 of 7690 Old 05-17-2014, 10:10 PM
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Just watched Fios / HBO OnDemand "Pacific Rim" in 3d. No ghosting @ all & the PQ was unbelievable(especially the Asian Jagr Girl!)

Every day I am astounded @ how gr8 the PQ. The wife is very pleased too.

Uniformity is excellent, no flashlighting & just love Cinema Black. This panel is leaps & bounds better than the D7000 we prev owned!
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post #7042 of 7690 Old 05-17-2014, 11:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by westa6969 View Post

The problem with following rec'd owner calibrations here or CNET is if you have a preference for Bright Vibrant PQ versus Cinema you'll often get trashed here for your own preference as being Dynamic. I have never posted my settings here because they run contrary to the calibration measurement so-called Cinema lovers here but it's my money and I'm not looking to be a Cinema Lemming Schmuck.

I've calibrated precisely as recommend here and CNET for my 65F8000 and 60D8000 and I also found them to be dim, dark, grey and dull/boring and with haze - similar to your description.

What I've done is simply repeatedly tweak them towards being brighter and more vibrant and colorful and the best blacks I can pull through to prevent screen haze - too much brightness will replicate a haze. Implement the calibration and then tweak them to your EYES content. Try all the settings and if you like Dynamic (especially if you have bright daylight in your room) in your home use it - we don't need to tell the calibrator police. If you wanted duller, dimmer, darker you could've bought a plasma.biggrin.gif



Couldn't agree more. Every set I have ever owned I have calibrated it and hated the look.
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post #7043 of 7690 Old 05-17-2014, 11:36 PM
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Sorry bout that.
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post #7044 of 7690 Old 05-18-2014, 03:19 PM
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So after owning this TV for about 2.5 weeks I have some thought of returning it. I've read the auto motion plus thread and get that it is not good, but I have to say I'm really disappointed. I get choppiness with every setting except for turning it off, while watching TV w/ directv. Even the "clear" setting gives me choppiness at times during baseball and hockey for a couple seconds here and there. It happens when the scene changes- in baseball after a replay of a base hit for example, it returns to live shot of the next pitch and there is some stutter for a second or two.

Trying the "custom" setting, blur reduction to 10 and judder to 0, and enabling LED clear motion produces more choppiness for me. Same thing when turning off LED clear motion, but leaving blur reduction at 10 and judder at 0. Still there is some stutter. Blu-ray movies play perfectly though with my custom AMP (blur 10, judder 4-5) settings and Netflix streaming does as well, no choppiness. So it very well could be just how the TV handles directv signal.

I am running audio quest cinnamon 5-6 foot hdmi cable from an HR44 directv receiver. I am really on the fence with this one, as I have never seen a more vibrant and uniform LCD/LED display than this F8000, also I have no vertical banding. The screen is pure perfection aside from AMP.

Is this something that can be fixed via an upcoming Evolution Kit- a better processor should help with AMP? I believe it isn't necessarily the TV because blu-rays and Netflix work fine; but Sony for example handles regular cable/satellite tv motion smoothing via motionflow much better than Samsung. For $2000 I expect AMP to work as advertised. If I return this set I'd go with the Sony W950b, despite the bad reviews.
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post #7045 of 7690 Old 05-18-2014, 05:43 PM
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AMP doesn't work well with certain TV providers more than others. I have U-Verse and AMP works fine with it using custom settings. U-Verse sucks though in terms of overall picture quality but I can't complain cause I don't pay the bills here. The only thing I've noticed is macroblocking outlines around moving objects when anti-judder is turned on in some form or another. Comcast customers seem to have the most problems with AMP from what I've read around.

AMP works extremely well on my PC, it really does bring the motion resolution to full 1080p, it's especially noticeable in single player PC games (where input lag isn't as much of an issue). So AMP does work as advertised, it's just that each source behaves differently and disagreements are bound to arise. I personally don't think AMP having issues is a deal breaker. You're still getting some of the best picture LED can physically provide. The F8000's panel deals with motion very well with or without AMP and if your F8000 is uniform, I would recommend you keep it.

If you do decide to get a new set I would strongly advice against the W950b, the contrast ratio is almost a third of that on the F8000. The new 4K Samsung flagships have been getting praise for their motion handling, perhaps you could take a shot with one of those.
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post #7046 of 7690 Old 05-19-2014, 08:40 AM
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I have Comcast Digital in Berkeley, CA and using the Clear setting I have absolutely no motion or AMP-related issues. Nada.

FYI
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post #7047 of 7690 Old 05-19-2014, 11:10 AM
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So I have had my 60" set for about a week now and I am really digging it and still fine tuning the picture that I would like. A few questions for which I couldn't quickly find the answer in this thread:

 

1. I have a Yamaha AVR receiver RX-V867 which I have had for 3 years and really like but noticed it does not support upscaling 720P or 1080i signals from my TWC DVR box to 1080P. Is it worth updating my AVR to a more recent model that will upscale those signals or does the display already do that?

 

2. I am in a realtively bright room during the day and noticed a few settings for daytime and nighttime viewing. Is there a way to have these settings saved somewhere on the tv to change back and forth quickly or automatically based on the time?

 

3. I have noticed a good amount of motion blur or stutter on some shows and sports. I have had the AMP settings at custom 10 Anti-blur and 0 Judder, which I had on my older 46" samsung set with no problems. Is it better to just turn AMP off totally or use one of their pre-sets? I can't seem to find a good custom setting yet.

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post #7048 of 7690 Old 05-19-2014, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by final442 View Post

So I have had my 60" set for about a week now and I am really digging it and still fine tuning the picture that I would like. A few questions for which I couldn't quickly find the answer in this thread:

1. I have a Yamaha AVR receiver RX-V867 which I have had for 3 years and really like but noticed it does not support upscaling 720P or 1080i signals from my TWC DVR box to 1080P. Is it worth updating my AVR to a more recent model that will upscale those signals or does the display already do that?
No knowledge with this, but I'm sure others will chime in.

2. I am in a realtively bright room during the day and noticed a few settings for daytime and nighttime viewing. Is there a way to have these settings saved somewhere on the tv to change back and forth quickly or automatically based on the time?
Go to the first page of this thread, there's an explanation on how to enable CAL DAY/NIGHT mode

3. I have noticed a good amount of motion blur or stutter on some shows and sports. I have had the AMP settings at custom 10 Anti-blur and 0 Judder, which I had on my older 46" samsung set with no problems. Is it better to just turn AMP off totally or use one of their pre-sets? I can't seem to find a good custom setting yet.
I use "Clear" with great results!
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post #7049 of 7690 Old 05-19-2014, 12:06 PM
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My stuttering occurs more often using blur reduction 10 and judder reduction 0,compared to using the "clear" setting. I know the new 2014 flagships have an updated processor so that could help, no idea. But my other non Samsung tv also connected to Directv has no stuttering at all. Someone has suggested trying an hdmi extender, which would be over $200, and wouldn't solve the problem anyway I don't think?
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post #7050 of 7690 Old 05-19-2014, 05:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by final442 View Post

I have a Yamaha AVR receiver RX-V867 which I have had for 3 years and really like but noticed it does not support upscaling 720P or 1080i signals from my TWC DVR box to 1080P. Is it worth updating my AVR to a more recent model that will upscale those signals or does the display already do that?

I believe the F8000 displays the native input resolution and does not upscale. As far as 720P, 1080i and 1080p, your eyes have to be the judge of their value. Compare the different cable or satellite and Blu-ray inputs to decide if it's worth the cost of upgrading.
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