Official Samsung UNxxF8000 Owners Thread - Page 251 - AVS Forum
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post #7501 of 7850 Old 07-28-2014, 11:37 AM
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The same was said to me today when I called about the 60 in model. Very strange since Samsung Live Chat confirmed that there are no other versions. SCAM!
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post #7502 of 7850 Old 07-28-2014, 05:39 PM
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Question Need some advice

Just picked up a UN65F8000 from buydig. Very happy with the TV and the picture quality, good uniformity, no flashlighting or banding. UD03 panel version.

BUT

I found I was delivered a Canadian version when I went to register on Samsung's site.

Buydig will refund or has offered to make up with a 3-year Square Trade warranty.

I'm torn...am I really losing anything by forgoing the 1-year Samsung US warranty for the ST warranty?

Advice?
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post #7503 of 7850 Old 07-28-2014, 07:17 PM
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How is the color and tint stability across different channels and sources , if it really looks good , then you should be all set.

The reason I say that is because I had instability all over the place , channels and inputs , and streaming.

Turns out the "main board" was defective , after the replacement the tv is much more stable.

I am still not a huge Samsung fan , because of the off-shore support.

However it still maybe one of the better tv`s out there.

Looks good , take it home !!

Later ,

Gary  
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post #7504 of 7850 Old 07-28-2014, 07:18 PM
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Nashua !!

Merrimack !
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post #7505 of 7850 Old 07-29-2014, 06:05 AM
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Yesterday I purchased the 60 inch for $1800 with a 5 year warranty (TV was $1539 + tax & warranty) - any suggestions on calibrating an advice to optimize this TV is welcomed.
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post #7506 of 7850 Old 07-29-2014, 06:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cromero055 View Post
Yesterday I purchased the 60 inch for $1800 with a 5 year warranty (TV was $1539 + tax & warranty) - any suggestions on calibrating an advice to optimize this TV is welcomed.

Where
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post #7507 of 7850 Old 07-29-2014, 07:09 AM
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Internet seller in NYC, but I picked it up at their warehouse.
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post #7508 of 7850 Old 07-29-2014, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jedi29 View Post
How is the color and tint stability across different channels and sources , if it really looks good , then you should be all set.

The reason I say that is because I had instability all over the place , channels and inputs , and streaming.

Turns out the "main board" was defective , after the replacement the tv is much more stable.

I am still not a huge Samsung fan , because of the off-shore support.

However it still maybe one of the better tv`s out there.

Looks good , take it home !!

Later ,

Gary 
Can you elaborate a little on the instability you were experiencing?
I'm experiencing differing PQ from channel to channel as well. Some channels are beautiful and others are extremely washed out, as if the backlight/brightness is cranked up...
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post #7509 of 7850 Old 07-29-2014, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by bellest View Post
Can you elaborate a little on the instability you were experiencing?
I'm experiencing differing PQ from channel to channel as well. Some channels are beautiful and others are extremely washed out, as if the backlight/brightness is cranked up...
Hi ,

Very similar , but not washed out. Let me explain.

My F8000 was not color stable on any 2 or more
channels.

Using a very unstable cable box and very poor Comcast S/N ratio.

In other words , the "Weather Ch. " looked fine while Starz looked to red , a Red Push.

I also experienced the red push on my PS3. Independent of such frailties as is my Mac Mini.

At the time I had an "Elite" dvd player , they all had red pushes IMO.

Anyway , I turned on the tv on day last Oct. and no sound from any device , luckily Comcast still had a few over air channels or freed channels , and they had sound , but all my HDMI inputs were picture only NO sound , all 4.

Called Samsung and told them I did the cable dance and still nothing and also told them I went to my cable boxes sub menu and it stated that an unauthorized HDCP tv was hooked up and that got there attention and they dispatched a repair man to replace the Main Board , part cost ( last year / Samsung Parts . com ) 347.?? ,and I asked the repair guy how much if it was not insured would the labor cost be , and he said between 6 ~ 7 hundred.

The second we powered it up after the repair , it looked like a different tv , it looked like a Samsung !! , and I had sound though HDMI , even the RNG-150 cable box.

Geez , I wrote a book !!

See , thats what happens when your passionate about anything that is silicon based. !!

Good luck = remember red push = failure at some point , even if you had the set calibrated , it would still fail.

Later ,

Gary 

PS:

Do you have a PS3 and play NFS - Rivals ?

If so we can help each other
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post #7510 of 7850 Old 07-29-2014, 07:40 PM
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Has any1 posted any gaming settings on here?. I was told the 8000 settings are applicable to the 6400 (my set) & to post here 'caus its a lot busier.
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post #7511 of 7850 Old 07-29-2014, 09:08 PM
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What 2014 model is the replacement for the 2013 F8000?

Would it be the H7150?

Or would the UHD 4K HU8550 be a closer match?

Anthem D2v, McIntosh MC205, Elite PRO-70X5FD, Oppo BDP-103, Dish hopper, Richard Gray Power Company 400S, B&W Nautilus, JL audio Fathom f113, Harmony One, empty wallet ;>)

Last edited by bekindrewind; 07-29-2014 at 09:12 PM.
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post #7512 of 7850 Old 07-30-2014, 05:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jedi29 View Post
Hi ,

Very similar , but not washed out. Let me explain.

My F8000 was not color stable on any 2 or more
channels.

Using a very unstable cable box and very poor Comcast S/N ratio.

In other words , the "Weather Ch. " looked fine while Starz looked to red , a Red Push.

I also experienced the red push on my PS3. Independent of such frailties as is my Mac Mini.

At the time I had an "Elite" dvd player , they all had red pushes IMO.

Anyway , I turned on the tv on day last Oct. and no sound from any device , luckily Comcast still had a few over air channels or freed channels , and they had sound , but all my HDMI inputs were picture only NO sound , all 4.

Called Samsung and told them I did the cable dance and still nothing and also told them I went to my cable boxes sub menu and it stated that an unauthorized HDCP tv was hooked up and that got there attention and they dispatched a repair man to replace the Main Board , part cost ( last year / Samsung Parts . com ) 347.?? ,and I asked the repair guy how much if it was not insured would the labor cost be , and he said between 6 ~ 7 hundred.

The second we powered it up after the repair , it looked like a different tv , it looked like a Samsung !! , and I had sound though HDMI , even the RNG-150 cable box.

Geez , I wrote a book !!

See , thats what happens when your passionate about anything that is silicon based. !!

Good luck = remember red push = failure at some point , even if you had the set calibrated , it would still fail.

Later ,

Gary 

PS:

Do you have a PS3 and play NFS - Rivals ?

If so we can help each other
Hmmm, I may not have the same issue, but considering it's still under warranty, I'll give Samsung a shout anyhoo...
And, nope to PS#, I retired from my gaming career some years back, good luck!
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post #7513 of 7850 Old 07-30-2014, 11:01 AM
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Hi bellest ,

If you call Samsung be sure to tell them you already changed your cables around.
It`s the first thing off there cheat sheet !!

You got out of gaming ? Me too years ago ,

"I tried to get out , but they keep pulling me back in."

{Godfather III } , some hate it , I think it`s the best of the 3 !!

I`m just coming off an almost 20 Yr. hiatus

Best of luck to `ya !!

Later ,

Me 
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post #7514 of 7850 Old 07-30-2014, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bekindrewind View Post
What 2014 model is the replacement for the 2013 F8000?

Would it be the H7150?

Or would the UHD 4K HU8550 be a closer match?
The exact 2014 replacement for the F8000 is the H8000. It is 1080p and has the same hardware based local dimming as the F8000 for better blacks. There are uniformity issues however with the H8000 from what I've researched. A discounted F8000 may be the better option if you're looking for the best 1080p LED available.
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post #7515 of 7850 Old 07-30-2014, 05:58 PM
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Gaming settings any1? I'm desperate!
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post #7516 of 7850 Old 07-30-2014, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by DRN94 View Post
The exact 2014 replacement for the F8000 is the H8000. It is 1080p and has the same hardware based local dimming as the F8000 for better blacks. There are uniformity issues however with the H8000 from what I've researched. A discounted F8000 may be the better option if you're looking for the best 1080p LED available.
Interesting. No 75" H8000 offered for 2014. Not sure it's built with all the advanced features the F8000 had. Sure it's curved, but gut feeling is the F8000 had better hardware based local dimming and blacker blacks.

I think a closer match would be the HU8550

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post #7517 of 7850 Old 07-30-2014, 07:45 PM
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Gaming settings any1? I'm desperate!
I have my PS4 as well as my Oppo connected to the NAD T-777 receiver. From there, I have one hdmi cable going to the tv via hdmi 1 input.

I have PS4 and we played a few games using Buzz night settings which I have used for tv and blu ray watching. I haven't seen any lag. I am on the latest firmware.

Also, I found the below. Not sure if it will work but worth looking at.


Samsung UN75F8000 LED TV, NAD T-777 (7.2 Receiver), Oppo 103, Sony PS4, Panamax MR-5100, 7 Paradigm Reference series 8" in ceiling speakers (AMS-150R) - 30 degree tilting speakers, 2 Paradigm SE Sub, universal remote MX-450, universal advanced RF base station MRF-3501. Pics here.

Last edited by HPQ; 07-31-2014 at 04:45 AM.
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post #7518 of 7850 Old 07-31-2014, 07:13 AM
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I have my PS4 as well as my Oppo connected to the NAD T-777 receiver. From there, I have one hdmi cable going to the tv via hdmi 1 input.

I have PS4 and we played a few games using Buzz night settings which I have used for tv and blu ray watching. I haven't seen any lag. I am on the latest firmware.
So Buzz settings apply to everything basically including gaming?. I'll try those settings but I might just keep dynamic contrast on low so the picture 'pops'. Not a big fan of Warm2 either but i'll check it out with those colour adjustments. My tv's a 6400 but its the same interface. I'll give PC mode a bash as well.
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post #7519 of 7850 Old 07-31-2014, 10:37 AM
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So Buzz settings apply to everything basically including gaming?. I'll try those settings but I might just keep dynamic contrast on low so the picture 'pops'. Not a big fan of Warm2 either but i'll check it out with those colour adjustments. My tv's a 6400 but its the same interface. I'll give PC mode a bash as well.
Please try the various settings. Of course all of this is dependent on user preference.

I am good with Buzz settings.

Samsung UN75F8000 LED TV, NAD T-777 (7.2 Receiver), Oppo 103, Sony PS4, Panamax MR-5100, 7 Paradigm Reference series 8" in ceiling speakers (AMS-150R) - 30 degree tilting speakers, 2 Paradigm SE Sub, universal remote MX-450, universal advanced RF base station MRF-3501. Pics here.
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post #7520 of 7850 Old 07-31-2014, 10:59 AM
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Please try the various settings. Of course all of this is dependent on user preference.

I am good with Buzz settings.
Those settings don't correlate to gaming though mate 'caus the presets on Game mode are different from Movie mode. I tried PC mode as well & whilst it does reduce lag it completely washes all 'punch' from the picture. Game mode lag is hardly noticeable tbh & isn't worth a few drop in mms for worse PQ. Its far too dull on PC.

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post #7521 of 7850 Old 07-31-2014, 11:11 AM
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Any dedicated gaming settings about?. I've scoured the forums for the 6000, 7000 & 8000 but ur all tv lovers!
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post #7522 of 7850 Old 07-31-2014, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by seehazy View Post
Have a quick question for AVS users:


Can anyone comment on a Vizio M (2014) vs. the Samsung F8000 (2013)??


It seems like many of you feel Vizio is not a good option, but since they use backlit full array local dimming, should I give them some thought in comparison to the F8000? From everything I have read the F8000 is awesome, but the fact that it is edge-lit gives me concern. I have seen too many screenshots of people experiencing flashlighting, etc. on their F8000's...


Any thoughts?
I purchased the 2014 60" Vizio M series based on it having the full array backlight. I tried for weeks to get the color right, using CNET's calibration, then another reviewer's settings, and finally just playing around with the settings until I got to the point where it was acceptable but not great. I even returned the set once (to Costco) and got a replacement, thinking that there had to be something wrong with the first one. But the second one was the same. I found that I really could not get uniform and realistic skin tones from channel to channel, or even watching the same show. I originally talked myself into keeping it because the set had an otherwise very nice picture, but I finally realized that I was never going to be happy with it, and I came across a good deal on the 60" F8000 and bought it. The difference for me was like night and day. Within a few minutes, I was able to adjust the picture to where the skin tones were perfect. I was prepared to spend weeks getting this right, the way I had for the Vizio, but it wasn't necessary. I now find that from channel to channel I get virtually perfect skin tones.

I followed the Vizio forum while I owned the set and even for a while after, and clearly there are people very happy with the Vizio and not complaining about the color. I don't know if it has something to do with the feed coming into my house, or whether I'm just pickier than some other people, but from my point of view it was worth every penny of the $500 more I paid to get the Samsung. I can't imagine the picture on any set being any better. I own a 2012 75" Sharp Elite set, which many consider to be the best LCD/LED set ever made (it is no longer made), and I think the picture on this Samsung is just as good.

So based on my experience the Samsung, even with the edge lighting, I think it is a far superior set, and well worth the extra money.

Hope this helps.

Ken
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post #7523 of 7850 Old 07-31-2014, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by SilentHill89 View Post
Any dedicated gaming settings about?. I've scoured the forums for the 6000, 7000 & 8000 but ur all tv lovers!
These Game Mode settings look fantastic on the F8000. These work great for high end PC, PS4, and Xbox One gaming. Plenty of pop yet relatively realistic looking contrast. I would not recommend these settings for TV/movie watching, however.

Game Mode On
Backlight 20 (lower if too bright)
Contrast 100
Brightness 45
Sharpness 0 (20 max)
Color 55 (60 max)
Tint G50 R50
Picture Size Screen Fit
Dynamic Contrast High
Black Tone Darker
Color Space Native
White Balance:
R-Off 24
G-Off 25
B-Off 25
R-Gain 0
G-Gain 15
B-Gain 50
Gamma +3
Color Tone Warm2
HDMI Black Level Low (which ever gives you the deepest black)
Smart LED High
Cinema Black On

Not sure how it would look on an F6400 though. Despite having a similar menu interface, each television looks and performs vastly different. The F8000 has higher contrast, deeper blacks, more accurate color reproduction, higher motion resolution, more advanced backlight scanning, higher native refresh rate, sharper detail as a result of the subpixel shape, and more thorough picture processing, etc. The differences go on and on. So you may want to look at what settings other F6400 owners are using rather than F8000 owners cause there is no telling if our settings look good on other TVs.
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post #7524 of 7850 Old 07-31-2014, 04:26 PM
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Quick question to anybody who can answer this. I have an external media player (mede8er) and it has an auto mode for video output. When I play 25.000fps material while in auto mode, it sends out the video as 50Hz. When it switches to 50Hz., the tv switches also, and confirms at the top of the screen that it is in 50Hz mode.

Is this safe to do with a US set? Will it harm the tv? Normally of course I have the media player set to output 60Hz but 25fps material tends to play smoother when the player outputs to 50Hz.
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post #7525 of 7850 Old 07-31-2014, 04:40 PM
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Thx man, those settings look really crisp & definitely give the picture 'pop'. I just tested them on inFamous second son. Ur right though about the different sets because it still doesn't quite match the Sony w9 I had. That looked a bit clearer & colours were more prominent. The 6400 looks kinda 'grainy' when u zoom in on text or watever.

Its interestin though that the blur on the 6400 is on par with the w9 & thats considered 'high-end'. Motion blur is clearly present on the 6400 despite its 100hz refresh rate (120hz US).
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post #7526 of 7850 Old 07-31-2014, 07:02 PM
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Thx man, those settings look really crisp & definitely give the picture 'pop'. I just tested them on inFamous second son. Ur right though about the different sets because it still doesn't quite match the Sony w9 I had. That looked a bit clearer & colours were more prominent. The 6400 looks kinda 'grainy' when u zoom in on text or watever.

Its interestin though that the blur on the 6400 is on par with the w9 & thats considered 'high-end'. Motion blur is clearly present on the 6400 despite its 100hz refresh rate (120hz US).
Game Mode turns the motion enhancers off. So even on the F8000, the native motion blur is on par with lower end sets. The difference is the F8000 has superior backlight scanning so pixel overdrive and dark tone smearing is far less prominent on the F8000 than the ES6100 I had a couple years ago. Of course when you turn the motion enhancers on the motion resolution goes to 1200 lines on the F8000 which is almost plasma like and it's definitely really noticeable when watching sports, shows, and movies. Games look great with it on too but the input lag gets too high.

I'm curious, why did you leave the W900A? It's supposed to be just as good as the F8000 in terms of picture quality and features.
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post #7527 of 7850 Old 07-31-2014, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by DRN94 View Post
Game Mode turns the motion enhancers off. So even on the F8000, the native motion blur is on par with lower end sets. The difference is the F8000 has superior backlight scanning so pixel overdrive and dark tone smearing is far less prominent on the F8000 than the ES6100 I had a couple years ago. Of course when you turn the motion enhancers on the motion resolution goes to 1200 lines on the F8000 which is almost plasma like and it's definitely really noticeable when watching sports, shows, and movies. Games look great with it on too but the input lag gets too high.

I'm curious, why did you leave the W900A? It's supposed to be just as good as the F8000 in terms of picture quality and features.
I wasn't happy with the motion blur or speakers but in hindsight I realise that it was a great tv. I'm now aware that all LEDs have motion blur. I'm even considerin goin back to it 'caus it has the lowest lag iv ever seen & the PQ is truly beautiful. Its nearly a grand though so I thought f u k it ill go back to my ****** toshiba.

I've just played Trine 2 now on the 6400 & it looks really pretty I must say with ur settings. Just needs a few tweaks like uppin the sharpness (caus it looks flat on low) & I lowered the brightness a notch. I can't seem to remove the 'jagginess' on text/objects though. Hard to explain but its like a fuzzy outline dunno if thts normal :/.
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post #7528 of 7850 Old 07-31-2014, 09:24 PM
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I wasn't happy with the motion blur or speakers but in hindsight I realise that it was a great tv. I'm now aware that all LEDs have motion blur. I'm even considerin goin back to it 'caus it has the lowest lag iv ever seen & the PQ is truly beautiful. Its nearly a grand though so I thought f u k it ill go back to my ****** toshiba.

I've just played Trine 2 now on the 6400 & it looks really pretty I must say with ur settings. Just needs a few tweaks like uppin the sharpness (caus it looks flat on low) & I lowered the brightness a notch. I can't seem to remove the 'jagginess' on text/objects though. Hard to explain but its like a fuzzy outline dunno if thts normal :/.
Glad to hear the settings look nice on that set. Upping the Sharpness would only exaggerate "jagginess" on things. Any Sharpness above 0 artificially adds detail, so 0 would give you what the source is sending to the TV and nothing more. I would recommend that you put Dark Tone from Darker to Darkest first before touching the Brightness setting because it should be at 45.
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post #7529 of 7850 Old 07-31-2014, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by DRN94 View Post
Glad to hear the settings look nice on that set. Upping the Sharpness would only exaggerate "jagginess" on things. Any Sharpness above 0 artificially adds detail, so 0 would give you what the source is sending to the TV and nothing more. I would recommend that you put Dark Tone from Darker to Darkest first before touching the Brightness setting because it should be at 45.
Dropped sharpness to 20 from 45, looks a bit smoother. There's still a bit of blurriness around the edge of things like text etc. 0 looks like a plant starved of water . Hard to reduce it without compromisin the PQ really. I've not lowered the brightness as such I meant overall brightness btw (backlight-12 etc). In terms of motion this tv appears smoother than that 6 yr old Toshiba. The amount of motion blur in Dark Souls 2 on that was absolutely disgusting!.
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post #7530 of 7850 Old 08-01-2014, 06:06 AM
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Originally Posted by SilentHill89 View Post
Dropped sharpness to 20 from 45, looks a bit smoother. There's still a bit of blurriness around the edge of things like text etc. 0 looks like a plant starved of water . Hard to reduce it without compromisin the PQ really. I've not lowered the brightness as such I meant overall brightness btw (backlight-12 etc). In terms of motion this tv appears smoother than that 6 yr old Toshiba. The amount of motion blur in Dark Souls 2 on that was absolutely disgusting!.
If you're playing on a sub 720p console like Xbox 360 or PS3 then yes, sharpness 15-20 would be advised, but if you're playing on PS4 or at least a mid range PC then sharpness should be set to 0 or else you're working against the detail. Xbox 360 and PS3 look like a blurry mess, not much the TV can do to improve it without exaggerating the already horrendous lack of anti-aliasing and just actual definition in general.
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