Official Samsung UNxxF8000 Owners Thread - Page 265 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #7921 of 8034 Old 01-05-2015, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by left field View Post
3. No matter what I do, streamed movies on Netflix look like soap operas. They are unwatchable.
I'm not sure about your other questions, but I think this one can be resolved just by disabling the anti-judder feature in the motion settings. Remember that even if you disabled it for another source, it may not be disabled for the Smart TV interface. I noticed this when I did the opposite (configured it for Smart TV and then noticed it was not set for other inputs).
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post #7922 of 8034 Old 01-05-2015, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by dancinbear View Post
I'm not sure about your other questions, but I think this one can be resolved just by disabling the anti-judder feature in the motion settings. Remember that even if you disabled it for another source, it may not be disabled for the Smart TV interface. I noticed this when I did the opposite (configured it for Smart TV and then noticed it was not set for other inputs).
Thanks, db.

I have the Auto Motion Plus set to
Custom:
Blur Reduction - 10
Judder Reduction - 0
LED Clear Motion - off

And do have Apply Picture Mode set to All Sources.

Is there something else I'm missing?

This morning Netflix isn't loading. I'm getting a black screen.

Software updated to 1204.
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post #7923 of 8034 Old 01-05-2015, 11:23 AM
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Curious , I have always had [ have ] mine set at "Clear" ( all adjustments are grayed out ) , and that seems to work for me.

It is my opinion that S/N Ratio of the incoming signal has a great deal to do with the judder issue.

I have seen slight degrees of what is mentioned , but not to the extent that I need to make adjustments.

I am also of the opinion that these sets [ LED/TV`s] are so erratic in there performance that QC must have been on holiday when these sets were made / and or designed !!

Happy Days

Gary 
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post #7924 of 8034 Old 01-05-2015, 12:35 PM
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Finally got NF back up and it seems that while I had "all sources" enabled only a few translated to from the Fios source to Netflix. Judder was on and set pretty high. Have resolved the issue, but does this mean I have to do a separate calibration for every source?
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post #7925 of 8034 Old 01-05-2015, 01:01 PM
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Yes , ALL inputs / sources ( some IE; not YT , VUDU & AIV yes ) can be calibrated individually.

I have most the same settings for my cable box / PS3 / MM / 103D.

Slightly different adjustments were needed for VUDU & AIV , but not much.

I find that Standard video setting works best for all inputs and sources.

Later

G. 
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post #7926 of 8034 Old 01-05-2015, 01:13 PM
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O__ Just a plug !!

VUDU , is very good.

You can up-convert your dvd`s to 1080p ( 10 for 20 bucks ) or rent or buy at a less than store price and they almost always have sales.

Plus , they are Ultra-Violet , so just link your UV account to VUDU and most new BD`s you buy have a code , and Disney movies have an unlinked code that can be used for one source , IE; Flixster / VUDU / M-GO , etc. , but the quality and low band width needed for 1080p on VUDU , to me is the only way to go.

Even the new and improved AIV ( no UV ) still takes a ton of bandwidth for 1080p.

8~10 is all that is needed for a no drop out signal for VUDU to do 1080p.

OK ___ so now you know I am a VUDU fan !! LOL

Now if I could just find a Holiday Inn

Later

Me 
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post #7927 of 8034 Old 01-05-2015, 01:57 PM
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The new firmware lets Me format an attached flash drive for DVR functions. The one media page has a section called "TV recordings" or something to that nature but I can't figure out how to actually record something. Any thoughts?
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post #7928 of 8034 Old 01-05-2015, 05:08 PM
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I just got the Samsung tabs 10.5 and when I use all share with the f8000 I get audio delay any way to fix this
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post #7929 of 8034 Old 01-05-2015, 11:04 PM
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Anyone knows if F8000 will get (or maybe for you with newer updates already have) the option to have a split view, to watch 2 different screens like the new 2014 series have? Like it's on the smartphone...
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post #7930 of 8034 Old 01-06-2015, 10:27 AM
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Netflix is much better so thanks for the advice.

I guess the light bleed along the bottom is edge is something I have to live with, but does anyone have any thoughts on the stuttering I get via a DVR source? Because it's happening at
a cut point, my guess is that something is trying to "catch up" to the new visual info and I'd love to know what before I call up Samsung to say, "Dude..."

Haven't really noticed it while watching live TV, but it could be there as well.
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post #7931 of 8034 Old 01-06-2015, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by sammiesamson View Post
Anyone knows if F8000 will get (or maybe for you with newer updates already have) the option to have a split view, to watch 2 different screens like the new 2014 series have? Like it's on the smartphone...
You'd have to purchase the 2014 Evolution Kit to get the Multi-Link Screen feature.

http://www.samsung.com/us/video/tvs-...es/SEK-2000/ZA
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post #7932 of 8034 Old 01-06-2015, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by sumguy91 View Post
You'd have to purchase the 2014 Evolution Kit to get the Multi-Link Screen feature.

http://www.samsung.com/us/video/tvs-...es/SEK-2000/ZA

Is the evolution kit even worth getting for this tv? Should I wait for the 2015 kit?
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post #7933 of 8034 Old 01-06-2015, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by boltonic View Post
Is the evolution kit even worth getting for this tv? Should I wait for the 2015 kit?
Sorry I can't make any suggestions as I have no personal experience with the Evolution Kit. I've pondered getting one, but have read a lot of mixed reviews about them. I'm also not in need of any of the new features the 2014 version has at the moment. I'm content with what came with my 2013 model, so unless the 2015 kits have some groundbreaking features worth buying into, I'll likely stick to the 2013 version.

There's a couple of threads on Evolution Kits here at AVS. Just use the search function to find them. That might be a good place to ask for opinions since a lot of those people either have them or are pondering getting one.
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post #7934 of 8034 Old 01-06-2015, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by jedi29 View Post
About 1204.4 :

Medium to large update , NO picture changes.

This is the Smart Hub change , it is kind of like half 2013 half 2014 hub.

What do I think ?

It`s ok , really is not that big of a deal , I do miss the pane where your 10 most recent pic`s or videos would be , but you can still find them under the Multimedia pane.

All in all , not such a pain !! LOL

Later

Me  HH
i would like to know how to use the "recorded TV" option in the multimedia pane in the bottom right. I formatted my flash drive for it, but i don't see any instructions on how to actually record TV shows or pause and rewind.
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post #7935 of 8034 Old 01-06-2015, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by DRN94 View Post
Brightness should always be at 45 or 46 on a modern high-end Samsung LED. I'm not sure what pattern WOW uses for contrast but really, contrast is up for grabs. You can push the contrast hard (95 to 100) and hope to tame it in the white balance or you can subdue the contrast (80 to 90) like I've seen some professional review sites do. I personally push contrast as far as the panel will allow without any discoloration (albeit some minor gamma variance) but my eye appreciates the extra depth of the contrast being maxed out. And honestly, the F8000 needs all the help it can get in the contrast department in my opinion.

I would recommend you try to max contrast out and pay more attention to the greyscale rather than the contrast pattern. What's more important is a neutral greyscale temperature across the whole range of black to white and everything in between. Once you have the temperature consistent and slightly warm (required to get an uncannily realistic image) then the only thing left to want is the highest contrast possible which would already be taken care of if you max it out in the beginning.

My set can be seen in these pictures:
Post 3653 Samsung F8000 -- 2013 Flagship Models
Post 4438 Official Samsung UNxxF8000 Owners Thread

I've spent a lot of time with my F8000 and I hope my advice can be of some help.

Picture preset: Movie
Backlight: 20 (8 for pitch black rooms, 20 for very bright rooms)
Contrast: 100 (push it)
Brightness: 45 (46 may be better for BluRay, 45 for cable box feeds)
Sharpness: 0 (0 for practically every input except for 720p last generation gaming consoles)
Color: 50 (correct setting)
Tint: G50/G50 (correct setting)
Picture Size: Screen Fit (1 to 1 pixel mapping, do not use 16:9)
Dynamic Contrast: Off (squashes dark tone to black, pushes light tones to white and messes with color accuracy, makes fleshtones pale)
Black Tone: Off (squashes dark tone to black)
Flesh Tone: 0 (fleshtones do not need correcting)
Color space: Native (native gives you the highest color gamut the TV can produce which matches up nicely with rec.709 but with slightly more saturation)
10p White Balance: Off (don't use if you don't have a meter, these fine adjustments are not necessary, refer to the white balance below)
Gamma: -1
Color Tone: Warm2 (correct setting, handle odd color tinges in the white balance below)
Digital Clean View: Off (lowers sharpness and detail)
MPEG Noise Filter: Off (lowers sharpness and detail)
HDMI Black Level: Low (which ever setting gives you the deepest black)
Film Mode: Auto1 (applies fullscreen deinterlace optimization, Auto2 is for widescreen only sources)
Motion Plus: On (LED Clear: On, Anti-Blur 10, Anti-Judder 0)
Smart LED: Standard (I prefer High)
Cinema Black: On (will auto detect and engage for widescreen bars)

My white balance settings are below. Keep in mind it will vary from panel to panel. I would recommend using Samsung's Expert Pattern 1 that is built right into the picture settings menu. I lower the offset by one to help hide dark tone compression artifacts on my U-Verse HD feed.

My gains are raised as part of the "contrast ratio boosting trick" which basically squeezes every bit of contrast from the panel while maintaining a linear greyscale and close enough color temperature. It can't be perfectly right without a meter but your eye should be able to spot red, green, or blue discoloration. Blue discoloration is the hardest to spot so always remember to dial back blue if in doubt to reorient the grey to yourself. If you end up with any discoloration though, a blue bias is most pleasant to the eye.

I would recommend keeping offset at 25 at first and only adjusting the gain, even minor offset changes I've noticed will cause awful discoloring to dark tones.

White Balance:
R-Offset: 24
G-Offset: 25
B-Offset: 25
R-Gain: 30
G-Gain: 34
B-Gain: 36

I'm very confident that these are the best settings one can do without a professional calibration or meter. You get the highest contrast the F8000's panel can possibly muster and you get a linear greyscale and decently accurate color temperature (if you can do the white balance by eye). If done correctly you should get a sensation that you're looking at real life images.

EDIT: After some experimenting tonight when trying to tame dark tone compression artifacts I found lowering Gamma to -1 and putting the offset back up by one did a better job overall. It maintains all shadow detail, hides dark tone compression, and lowering Gamma to -1 results in slightly better color saturation. Much better solution than using just the white balance offset. I've updated the settings above. Anyone who is a Standard Mode enthusiast, I strongly recommend you give these Movie Mode settings a try for a few days, the picture is far more realistic than Standard Mode can manage.
DRN94, just to let you know, today, I was able to get my hands on Disney Wow disc and your numbers were exactly what the disc wanted me to set my tv to in regards to brightness, color, sharpness.
good job!

Samsung UN75F8000 LED TV, NAD T-777 (7.2 Receiver), Oppo 103, Sony PS4, Panamax MR-5100, 7 Paradigm Reference series 8" in ceiling speakers (AMS-150R) - 30 degree tilting speakers, 2 Paradigm SE Sub, universal remote MX-450, universal advanced RF base station MRF-3501. Pics here.
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post #7936 of 8034 Old 01-07-2015, 12:19 PM
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Well later I finally managed to update it. But it didn't help with the two issues with the HDMIs and with Wifi. So I hope on the service they will find out what's wrong.

And about the HDMIs... The weird thing is that the PC and Bluray player, both worked fine for a few months since I got this TV. But then a month or so later after not using any of these two HDMIs, I found out that they suddenly don't work anymore. Also the ARC HDMI doesn't work, so I guess it must be something wrong with the hardware. I can say that I'm 100% sure that's not something with settings, because I didn't change any of them for months.

And the problem is not just the sound, but also the video. I have connected two HDMIs into the TVs ports, but in the Source menu they are all greyish, like inactive... And when I click on any of them it says that they are not connected.
With the update 1122 now the HDMI3 is at the beginning of the Source menu and it is white, like it's active, but when I click on it the screen is black and it displays only date and time.

I just really don't know what could be wrong with these HDMIs...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronbol View Post
My wifi connection has always been spotty at best. It can be solid for 2+ hours, or break every 10 minutes. Frustratingly the TV knows it's connected to the Internet but drops the connection to the network. It's my only connected device that does this. Even the TV shows a fully strong wireless connection when it won't connect. It's the only aspect of this TV I don't like. Please post if you find a solution.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I had the same issues with Wifi on my UN55F8000. Whenever I watch movies on Netflix, the wifi connection drops after working fine for 10-15 minutes. I talked to Samsung and read a lot and didn't find the resolution anywhere. I was able to find resolution while playing with the network settings on my Wifi router. There were multiple ways I was able to resolve this.

1. Provide a Static IP to your Samsung TV. Make sure it is out of the DHCP IP range you've setup on your wifi router.
2. If you want to stick to DHCP IP's, make the reservation for the IP on the wifi router for your Samsung TV, this will make sure your TV gets the same IP and is not assigned to any other device in network.
3. Change the Wifi channel to something which is having least interference. You can use any tool (inSSIDer for PC, any available for Android & IOS) to find out the channels which are free or have least interference.

I was able to resolve my wifi issues with any of the above methods. Combinations can also be tried based on the results.
I hope this helps in resolving your wifi issues.

Good Luck!!!
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post #7937 of 8034 Old 01-07-2015, 12:41 PM
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Come to think of it I had a connection issue and I manually changed my DNS to
bounce of Googles DNS 8.8.8.8. , so far that has helped.

So much for Comcast`s servers

Later

Gary 
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post #7938 of 8034 Old 01-07-2015, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by rayofhope View Post
I had the same issues with Wifi on my UN55F8000. Whenever I watch movies on Netflix, the wifi connection drops after working fine for 10-15 minutes. I talked to Samsung and read a lot and didn't find the resolution anywhere. I was able to find resolution while playing with the network settings on my Wifi router. There were multiple ways I was able to resolve this.

1. Provide a Static IP to your Samsung TV. Make sure it is out of the DHCP IP range you've setup on your wifi router.
2. If you want to stick to DHCP IP's, make the reservation for the IP on the wifi router for your Samsung TV, this will make sure your TV gets the same IP and is not assigned to any other device in network.
3. Change the Wifi channel to something which is having least interference. You can use any tool (inSSIDer for PC, any available for Android & IOS) to find out the channels which are free or have least interference.

I was able to resolve my wifi issues with any of the above methods. Combinations can also be tried based on the results.
I hope this helps in resolving your wifi issues.

Good Luck!!!
Thank you very much for your reply!

I will check the settings on router as soon as I will have some extra time.
For the channel I know that I have checked which one are less used around me and I have chosen that one.

Thanks again, hope this will work for me too!
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post #7939 of 8034 Old 01-07-2015, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boltonic View Post
Is the evolution kit even worth getting for this tv? Should I wait for the 2015 kit?
I have the 2012 65ES8000 which was the precursor to the 2013 F8000. I bought the 2013 Evolution kit for mine, which supposedly has the same chipset as the F8000. I wouldn't buy it again. The Smarthub menus look different (so what, they work the same), and it comes with a different remote (my original remote doesn't work though) which already broke. The picture is exactly the same. It's supposed to have more memory, but I have no need for that. I don't use the Smarthub, I use my BD player for streams. And I've always set Auto Motion Plus to CLEAR. I've never had any problems with any motion on any source at any time ever. It amazes me how many forum people complain about the socalled "soap opera effect" (whatever that is). That includes people with the UHD Samsungs too.
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Samsung ES8000 65", Evo Kit installed, Yamaha AVR with Paradigm speakers, iMac, iPad, Apple TV and HTC One phone.

Last edited by thebignewt; 01-07-2015 at 01:52 PM.
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post #7940 of 8034 Old 01-07-2015, 02:53 PM
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I agree , those "Evo- Kits " are a waste , but you do get another remote !!

However , the one I picked up on ebay for 20 bucks is better than any of them !!

Later

Me 
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post #7941 of 8034 Old 01-07-2015, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayofhope View Post
I had the same issues with Wifi on my UN55F8000. Whenever I watch movies on Netflix, the wifi connection drops after working fine for 10-15 minutes. I talked to Samsung and read a lot and didn't find the resolution anywhere. I was able to find resolution while playing with the network settings on my Wifi router. There were multiple ways I was able to resolve this.



1. Provide a Static IP to your Samsung TV. Make sure it is out of the DHCP IP range you've setup on your wifi router.

2. If you want to stick to DHCP IP's, make the reservation for the IP on the wifi router for your Samsung TV, this will make sure your TV gets the same IP and is not assigned to any other device in network.

3. Change the Wifi channel to something which is having least interference. You can use any tool (inSSIDer for PC, any available for Android & IOS) to find out the channels which are free or have least interference.



I was able to resolve my wifi issues with any of the above methods. Combinations can also be tried based on the results.

I hope this helps in resolving your wifi issues.



Good Luck!!!

Will give this a try, thank you for posting!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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post #7942 of 8034 Old 01-07-2015, 03:47 PM
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Does anyone use the allshare with their samsung tablet I keep getting audio delay. Anyone know how to fix this
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post #7943 of 8034 Old 01-07-2015, 05:23 PM
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At least for me , the "All Share" does nothing for me , although I have a Galaxy 2014 , I mainly use my Mac Mini for internet on the F8000.

I can see how it might be useful if one did not have a computer hooked up.

I have used it a few times , and have not noticed any problems , of course I have not even used it long enough at any given single time to find a problem.

Good luck !

G 
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post #7944 of 8034 Old 01-07-2015, 06:51 PM
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Yeah I mainly just want to use it for Comcast on demand because a friend gave me his login but get audio lag
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post #7945 of 8034 Old 01-08-2015, 03:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jedi29 View Post
I agree , those "Evo- Kits " are a waste , but you do get another remote !!

However , the one I picked up on ebay for 20 bucks is better than any of them !!

Later

Me 
I had a Mitsubishi TV offering a similar upgrade capability. Total joke. Cost of upgrade vs what you got was not even close. Truth is I regret buying my UN65F8000. The TV itself is a fine TV. I just misjudged the usefulness (to me) of the Smarthub interface and apps. All I really needed was streaming apps like Amazon and Netflix. Had no use for all the social stuff, voice activation, hand gestures, 3D, .......blah, blah, blah. I could have gotten by with a Dumb TV much cheaper and just bought another Roku. Like I said. My fault for not judging my real needs. The TV is a fine TV.
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post #7946 of 8034 Old 01-08-2015, 04:17 AM
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Originally Posted by SJMAYE View Post
I had a Mitsubishi TV offering a similar upgrade capability. Total joke. Cost of upgrade vs what you got was not even close. Truth is I regret buying my UN65F8000. The TV itself is a fine TV. I just misjudged the usefulness (to me) of the Smarthub interface and apps. All I really needed was streaming apps like Amazon and Netflix. Had no use for all the social stuff, voice activation, hand gestures, 3D, .......blah, blah, blah. I could have gotten by with a Dumb TV much cheaper and just bought another Roku. Like I said. My fault for not judging my real needs. The TV is a fine TV.
The only reason I don`t regret buying they tv , even though it had to have the main board replaced after 6 mo. , is that it was the best 2013 had to offer.

Occasionally I will use 3D , but like you said the social stuff , hand waving , voice act. is a joke , I was using it at first and the F8000 would not recognize me unless I was talking to someone else !! , then I had to excuse myself while I turned the voice off , total joke , and don`t even get me started on the quality of that stupid pop up camera !!!

Later

G. 
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post #7947 of 8034 Old 01-08-2015, 04:40 AM
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Originally Posted by DRN94 View Post
The built in Expert Pattern 1 in the Advanced Settings menu on the Picture settings is great for adjusting greyscale as well. Very easy to get a linear greyscale with Expert Pattern 1 by eye for those who don't have meter. I was able to get my greyscale impeccably linear. It may be the wrong temperature by a little but as long as it's linear you get the "looking through a window" effect.
@DRN94 So 7 months into owning a 55F8000, I thought Id share my experience as well as the issues I've had.

Overall from unboxing it back in May 2014, Ive been very happy with the screen. I had a pretty uniform panel (Panel made in May 2013), very little clouding and torchlighting and no other issues to mention. After updating firmware to 1122 (I have a EU panel since I live in South Africa) , I tested the 3D using a 3D Blu Ray disc and the minute the screen switched to 3D mode, I found a horrible horizontal strobe effect in the center of the screen. It seemed that the backlight in the center of the screen was dead or on its way out. It turns out that also setting LED clear motion to on in 2D mode produced the same issue.

I raised a ticket with Samsung who sent out an engineer with a new 55" Panel and power supply module for the set. They replaced both the panel and Power supply module and once we tested it, the issue was resolved. (Yipee)

The new panel was manufactured in February 2014 (about a year after my original panel). I started doing some testing and calibration last night and I cant help but notice that this panel seems alot darker in comparison using the same calibration settings and source material. I had to crank up the backlight higher to achieve a decent image, even when using the settings I had on the set before. One area that is very noticable is when using the Expert Patten Test 1 and in Movie mode , I actually cant see all the grey blocks from about half way across the screen. I've been playing with Contrast, brightness (turned off dynamic contrast, etc) but still cant seem to get the test pattern to show me all the grey blocks without crushing the whites. Colours on the set look great but I cant get the greys, blacks and whites right.

Can you please help me with some settings I can use to get this test pattern to look right on the set? Im hoping I dont have panel thats worse than the one I had before
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post #7948 of 8034 Old 01-08-2015, 01:13 PM
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Rhza786,

They may have put a mid range panel as a replacement probably because they simply don't make the phenomenal flat 1080p panels found in the F8000 anymore. And that is probably why they keep the panel version secret during the replacement process. Hopefully the loss in shadow detail can be made up for by some settings tweaks.

What I would try first is upping the RGB offset in the White Balance settings and setting Gamma to 0. The offset handles the low end cutoffs near the black level. If the offset is too low for the panel, shadow details are crushed to black. If they are at 25 by default, try upping them all to 26 and then so on and see if that makes the dark shades of grey visible (look off center to exaggerate the black level and make the boxes more visible, as long as you can see the box off axis, it should suffice for subtle dark detail straight on).

After you raise offset you'll probably have to readjust your RGB gain. Try upping the gain as high as it can go without crushing highlight detail. You may need to back down on the Contrast setting a little to help out the shades of white.

I had a mid range 46" ES6100 (2012 model) and there were a few dark shades of grey I could not get visible at all. There is a chance that they put in a panel that is not up to snuff of the one that was originally in it. If settings changes can't resurrect the shadow detail and the overall contrast isn't as high as what you had before then I would try to politely ask them to replace the panel. I would tell them that "the picture quality properties of the replacement panel are vastly inferior, perhaps this is due to a limited supply of the original panel. Would it be possible to get the panel equivalent to the newer H7150 which would be comparable to the picture quality I was getting before? The panel I currently have is flawless and should still satisfy other customers, I simply just want the original quality I purchased."

The H7150 is the American version but there should be an equivalent model for South Africa. It's probably just called the H7000 or something, but it's Samsung's highest end flat 1080p for 2014 so replacement panels for that should still be available and from what I've researched, the H7000 has very close picture to the F8000.

Hopefully the offset bump can fix the problem but if the picture still doesn't satisfy you, I don't think you'd be wrong to request a higher quality panel from Samsung (Assuming the quality of the replacement panel is to blame for the lost shadow detail. High end TV's like the F8000 are specifically engineered for all the designed parts to fit together, swap just one of those things out with something equivalent and it could throw off the whole thing)

Last edited by DRN94; 01-08-2015 at 01:25 PM.
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post #7949 of 8034 Old 01-09-2015, 10:33 AM
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This judder issue is driving me crazy. I now see it on broadcast.

I assume this is "judder" - quick staccato jump that looks like the TV is dropping a few frames. It typically happens at cuts and is worse with video-looking channels, say HGTV.

I've have to set the Judder control to 5 to deal with it somewhat, but don't love what this does to the overall picture. Am I the only one with this issue? Is there something simple I'm missing.

Im coming from 12-year-old LCD Samsung that was fantastic.

Any leads on a low profile articulated mount?

Thanks.
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post #7950 of 8034 Old 01-09-2015, 12:25 PM
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It could be a problem with the F8000 , that would not be unusual.

I have mine set to "Clear" and very few times have I even noticed any judder , I know what you are taking about , I had an LG that juddered like crazy and it got returned.

For the LG , I noticed it the most during "tickers" at the bottom of the screen , think CNN , Fox News , ESPN , rarely did I notice it during a show or movie , just seemed to be the ticker stuff.

Now , I have Comcast , and when the signal to noise drops below 34db is when I notice it the most , however my nominal transmission rate is around 36~37db , just on the edge , but enough to keep my F8000 happy.

If any modern display is hooked into the internet , you will have issues.

I was watching YT about 2 hr`s ago and all of a sudden videos stopped loading so I exited the app and checked the source button and I had the triangle symbol stating my internet was down , checked router and modem , both were fine.

I turned off the tv for 30 sec. then turned it back on and bingo , I was signed in as normal. There had to have been a S/N ratio drop for just an instance , just long enough to muck things up.

Now if we didn`t have all these goodies , then no problems , but no fun either.

Every thing has a price my friend.

Later

Gary 
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