Brightness should always be at 45 or 46 on a modern high-end Samsung LED. I'm not sure what pattern WOW uses for contrast but really, contrast is up for grabs. You can push the contrast hard (95 to 100) and hope to tame it in the white balance or you can subdue the contrast (80 to 90) like I've seen some professional review sites do. I personally push contrast as far as the panel will allow without any discoloration (albeit some minor gamma variance) but my eye appreciates the extra depth of the contrast being maxed out. And honestly, the F8000 needs all the help it can get in the contrast department in my opinion.
I would recommend you try to max contrast out and pay more attention to the greyscale rather than the contrast pattern. What's more important is a neutral greyscale temperature across the whole range of black to white and everything in between. Once you have the temperature consistent and slightly warm (required to get an uncannily realistic image) then the only thing left to want is the highest contrast possible which would already be taken care of if you max it out in the beginning.
My set can be seen in these pictures:
Post 3653 Samsung F8000 -- 2013 Flagship Models
Post 4438 Official Samsung UNxxF8000 Owners Thread
I've spent a lot of time with my F8000 and I hope my advice can be of some help.
Picture preset: Movie
Backlight: 20 (8 for pitch black rooms, 20 for very bright rooms)
Contrast: 100 (push it)
Brightness: 45 (46 may be better for BluRay, 45 for cable box feeds)
Sharpness: 0 (0 for practically every input except for 720p last generation gaming consoles)
Color: 50 (correct setting)
Tint: G50/G50 (correct setting)
Picture Size: Screen Fit (1 to 1 pixel mapping, do not use 16:9)
Dynamic Contrast: Off (squashes dark tone to black, pushes light tones to white and messes with color accuracy, makes fleshtones pale)
Black Tone: Off (squashes dark tone to black)
Flesh Tone: 0 (fleshtones do not need correcting)
Color space: Native (native gives you the highest color gamut the TV can produce which matches up nicely with rec.709 but with slightly
10p White Balance: Off (don't use if you don't have a meter, these fine adjustments are not necessary, refer to the white balance below)
Color Tone: Warm2 (correct setting, handle odd color tinges in the white balance below)
Digital Clean View: Off (lowers sharpness and detail)
MPEG Noise Filter: Off (lowers sharpness and detail)
HDMI Black Level: Low (which ever setting gives you the deepest black)
Film Mode: Auto1 (applies fullscreen deinterlace optimization, Auto2 is for widescreen only sources)
Motion Plus: On (LED Clear: On, Anti-Blur 10, Anti-Judder 0)
Smart LED: Standard (I prefer High)
Cinema Black: On (will auto detect and engage for widescreen bars)
My white balance settings are below. Keep in mind it will vary from panel to panel. I would recommend using Samsung's Expert Pattern 1 that is built right into the picture settings menu. I lower the offset by one to help hide dark tone compression artifacts on my U-Verse HD feed.
My gains are raised as part of the "contrast ratio boosting trick" which basically squeezes every bit of contrast from the panel while maintaining a linear greyscale and close enough
color temperature. It can't be perfectly right without a meter but your eye should be able to spot red, green, or blue discoloration. Blue discoloration is the hardest to spot so always remember to dial back blue if in doubt to reorient the grey to yourself. If you end up with any discoloration though, a blue bias is most pleasant to the eye.
I would recommend keeping offset at 25 at first and only adjusting the gain, even minor offset changes I've noticed will cause awful discoloring to dark tones.
I'm very confident that these are the best settings one can do without a professional calibration or meter. You get the highest contrast the F8000's panel can possibly muster and you get a linear greyscale and decently accurate color temperature (if you can do the white balance by eye). If done correctly you should get a sensation that you're looking at real life images.
EDIT: After some experimenting tonight when trying to tame dark tone compression artifacts I found lowering Gamma to -1 and putting the offset back up by one did a better job overall. It maintains all shadow detail, hides dark tone compression, and lowering Gamma to -1 results in slightly better color saturation. Much better solution than using just the white balance offset. I've updated the settings above. Anyone who is a Standard Mode enthusiast, I strongly recommend you give these Movie Mode settings a try for a few days, the picture is far more realistic than Standard Mode can manage.