Official Samsung UNxxF8000 Owners Thread - Page 281 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #8401 of 8417 Old 01-10-2016, 07:46 AM
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Optimal Picture settings v1211

Guys - now that the latest update is v1211 - do you know which post I can use to copy settings for my 65" f8000. Are all the old posts for optimal settings still valid for v1211. Who's settings have you used?
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post #8402 of 8417 Old 01-10-2016, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ravina View Post
Guys - now that the latest update is v1211 - do you know which post I can use to copy settings for my 65" f8000. Are all the old posts for optimal settings still valid for v1211. Who's settings have you used?
Here's my settings. I've done tweaks and changes from time to time but eventually settled close on what FlatPanelsHD arrived at with some minor improvements I believe. The intention of these settings is to extract as much contrast ratio from the panel as possible while maintaining that realistic D6500K temperature.

Movie Mode:
Backlight: 20 (Depends on lighting environment and preference)
Contrast: 100 (Want to maximize contrast)
Brightness: 46 (Improves shadow detail but keeps the black level the same)
Sharpness: 0 (0 for 1080p sources, 20-30 for 720p sources, 45 - 55 only for Xbox 360/PS3)
Color: 50 (Full color saturation with no clipping)
Tint (G/R): G50 R50
Picture Size: Screen Fit (maps 1:1 pixels for 1080p sources)

Advanced Settings:
Dynamic Contrast: Off (Doesn't increase contrast but crushes black detail, blows up white detail, and obliterates color accuracy)
Black Tone: Off (Doesn't improve black level, just crushes shadow detail)
Flesh Tone: 0 (No change needed if set to proper D6500K temperature)
Color Space: Native (Gives a slightly higher color gamut than rec.709, Custom is pointless if you don't have a meter)

White Balance:
R-Offset: 22
G-Offset: 24
B-Offset: 25
R-Gain: 28
G-Gain: 20
B-Gain: 30


10p White Balance: Off (Unless you have a meter going in here is pointless, the 2p white balance suffices for calibration by eye)
Gamma: -1 (Brings gamma close to 2.4 which means the desired 'deeper black' effect without sacrificing shadow detail, also improves color saturation especially skintones)

Picture Options:
Color Tone: Warm2 (People will kick and scream but this is indeed the correct setting, the 2p white balance should correct the red push and green push that movie mode has by default)
Digital Clean View: Off (Can set to Auto if your STB stream is really compressed and pixelated with noise)
MPEG Noise Filter: Off (Can set to Auto if your STB stream is really compressed and pixelated with noise)
HDMI Black Level: Low/Normal (If it should be Low then when you set to Normal everything looks light grey and hazy, if it should be Normal then when you set to Low everything looks really dark and black and grey is totally crushed)
Film Mode: Auto2 (For STB tickers for sports and news channels will not distort, Auto1 for BluRay players and other sources)
Auto Motion Plus: Clear (I used to do custom but Clear gives very similar anti-blur performance without the annoying judder/stuttering)
Smart LED: High (Gives you the best black levels the panel and local dimming can muster, Standard performs similarly and some prefer it as well)
Cinema Black: On (Dims widescreen black bars to near black, when the TV first shipped this turned off the LEDs entirely but since the second or third update it dims a lot but not totally off, this fixed the problem where bright elements near the borders appeared dim)

Last edited by DRN94; 01-10-2016 at 10:49 AM.
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post #8403 of 8417 Old 01-10-2016, 08:07 PM
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Update:

I have attached two pictures showing the ~4" wide vertical strip, just left of center, that has display issues. Last week I took the tv to a repair shop and the store owner feels it is likely a panel ribbon connector problem. This would take a panel replacement to correct. The other possibility would be tcon board problem but this seems more unlikely because of the isolated vertical strip with the problem.

Unfortunately the shop owner has found the panel itself is over 2 grand to buy and that is without shipping and labor to install

Does anyone with insight think this diagnosis is correct or should I take the brave route and replace the tcon myself to see if there is improvement (I am experienced with electronics repair)? I am going to partially disassemble the tv at some point to see if I put some pressure on the ribbon bonding connector to see if i can get any improvement on the cheap.

2 calls to Samsung tech support were a joke. I was advised on the next call I could ask for the executive level in terms ofreceiving any help on the out of warranty repair. This seems like a waste of time to me unless any of you tell me otherwise.

Thanks again, John
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post #8404 of 8417 Old 01-11-2016, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdmst71 View Post
Update:

I have attached two pictures showing the ~4" wide vertical strip, just left of center...
If you are comfortable and knowledgeable working on electronics/electrical devices:
I would start with the cheapest/easiest first. Lay it face down on a table padded with a soft blanket. Everything comes off of the panel this way.. I watched the technician replace the screen on my 65F800. Remove and reseat every cable/connector/board that you can. Put it back together enough to try it, and see what happens. At this point it seems you have little to nothing to lose. I don't know what a t-con board costs. I saw the invoice for the panel the tech put in mine and it cost a bit over $1200. Still expensive... but far from $2000.
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I believe it's time to Overthrow VerticalScope..
and Bring Back Huddler!


Blu-rays & DVD's
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post #8405 of 8417 Old 01-11-2016, 09:38 AM
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Film Mode Auto2 under Picture Options

I followed your setting step-by-step, but when I go to the Film Mode setting under Picture Options, mine is OFF and greyed out. I can't select it. HDMI Black level can't be selected either and is on NORMAL. thx much








Quote:
Originally Posted by DRN94 View Post
Here's my settings. I've done tweaks and changes from time to time but eventually settled close on what FlatPanelsHD arrived at with some minor improvements I believe. The intention of these settings is to extract as much contrast ratio from the panel as possible while maintaining that realistic D6500K temperature.

Movie Mode:
Backlight: 20 (Depends on lighting environment and preference)
Contrast: 100 (Want to maximize contrast)
Brightness: 46 (Improves shadow detail but keeps the black level the same)
Sharpness: 0 (0 for 1080p sources, 20-30 for 720p sources, 45 - 55 only for Xbox 360/PS3)
Color: 50 (Full color saturation with no clipping)
Tint (G/R): G50 R50
Picture Size: Screen Fit (maps 1:1 pixels for 1080p sources)

Advanced Settings:
Dynamic Contrast: Off (Doesn't increase contrast but crushes black detail, blows up white detail, and obliterates color accuracy)
Black Tone: Off (Doesn't improve black level, just crushes shadow detail)
Flesh Tone: 0 (No change needed if set to proper D6500K temperature)
Color Space: Native (Gives a slightly higher color gamut than rec.709, Custom is pointless if you don't have a meter)

White Balance:
R-Offset: 22
G-Offset: 24
B-Offset: 25
R-Gain: 28
G-Gain: 20
B-Gain: 30

10p White Balance: Off (Unless you have a meter going in here is pointless, the 2p white balance suffices for calibration by eye)
Gamma: -1 (Brings gamma close to 2.4 which means the desired 'deeper black' effect without sacrificing shadow detail, also improves color saturation especially skintones)

Picture Options:
Color Tone: Warm2 (People will kick and scream but this is indeed the correct setting, the 2p white balance should correct the red push and green push that movie mode has by default)
Digital Clean View: Off (Can set to Auto if your STB stream is really compressed and pixelated with noise)
MPEG Noise Filter: Off (Can set to Auto if your STB stream is really compressed and pixelated with noise)
HDMI Black Level: Low/Normal (If it should be Low then when you set to Normal everything looks light grey and hazy, if it should be Normal then when you set to Low everything looks really dark and black and grey is totally crushed)
Film Mode: Auto2 (For STB tickers for sports and news channels will not distort, Auto1 for BluRay players and other sources)
Auto Motion Plus: Clear (I used to do custom but Clear gives very similar anti-blur performance without the annoying judder/stuttering)
Smart LED: High (Gives you the best black levels the panel and local dimming can muster, Standard performs similarly and some prefer it as well)
Cinema Black: On (Dims widescreen black bars to near black, when the TV first shipped this turned off the LEDs entirely but since the second or third update it dims a lot but not totally off, this fixed the problem where bright elements near the borders appeared dim)
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post #8406 of 8417 Old 01-11-2016, 03:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EHSTEINERT View Post
I followed your setting step-by-step, but when I go to the Film Mode setting under Picture Options, mine is OFF and greyed out. I can't select it. HDMI Black level can't be selected either and is on NORMAL. thx much
If Film Mode has been greyed out then the source you are on is not interlaced and therefore Film Mode does not apply to it. If HDMI Black Level is greyed out then that means the F8000 has detected the proper HDMI black level setting and has applied it for you. Taking into account panel to panel differences the White Balance settings may need minor tweaking although I found greyscale linearity and color temperature to be impeccable with these settings on my TS01 panel. Do you see an improvement with these picture settings over your last?
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post #8407 of 8417 Old 01-11-2016, 04:08 PM
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******** FYI ********


If you are a Starz subscriber , Starz Play & Encore Play app are now available in the Samsung App folder.

BIG + If your provider only does DD 5.1 , you can select DTS using the app.

Later

G. 
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post #8408 of 8417 Old 01-11-2016, 04:15 PM
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Settings

Quote:
Originally Posted by DRN94 View Post
If Film Mode has been greyed out then the source you are on is not interlaced and therefore Film Mode does not apply to it. If HDMI Black Level is greyed out then that means the F8000 has detected the proper HDMI black level setting and has applied it for you. Taking into account panel to panel differences the White Balance settings may need minor tweaking although I found greyscale linearity and color temperature to be impeccable with these settings on my TS01 panel. Do you see an improvement with these picture settings over your last?



Thanks for your input. My source as I was doing this was my Oppo blu-ray through my Yamaha AV receiver, so you are right it would was 1080p. Your settings deliver a much brighter picture than what I had before. Most of my settings were very close except for smart pixel, backlight, and contrast. The picture looks great. I tried The Godfather restored Blu-ray, which seemed very dark and muted before. I know Coppula was going for that "early color film" look when he shot it, and it still looks that way. But with your settings much more detail is now visible.


I noticed a marked improvement in black & white images too.

Last edited by EHSTEINERT; 01-11-2016 at 06:31 PM.
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post #8409 of 8417 Old 01-12-2016, 03:53 PM
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Hey DNR94 ,

So that HDMI info you posted , does that include cable boxes ? I have alway wondered why the black level for HDMI is grayed out when I watch tv.

The picture is fine and probably would not change it ( or change it back ) , but I have alwaYS been curios.

Thanks

Later

Gary 

PS about knick name :

When your 94 you don`t want to be resuscitated ? LOL
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post #8410 of 8417 Old 01-12-2016, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jedi29 View Post
Hey DNR94 ,

So that HDMI info you posted , does that include cable boxes ? I have alway wondered why the black level for HDMI is grayed out when I watch tv.

The picture is fine and probably would not change it ( or change it back ) , but I have alwaYS been curios.

Thanks

Later

Gary 

PS about knick name :

When your 94 you don`t want to be resuscitated ? LOL
If the HDMI is greyed out you are A-Ok. My AT&T cable box (IPTV box technically) outputs low but allows me to change the setting. My PC outputs normal and again allows me to change the setting so I've seen both black levels in action and what the wrong setting looks like given the situation.

I'm guessing the metadata is sometimes not output to the TV so it's unable to figure out if it is low or normal. So when the TV is in doubt it lets the user choose, when it is absolutely sure the TV chooses the correct option.


Also, my screen name DRN94 is simply my initials and birth date... Although I probably wouldn't want to be resuscitated at the ripe old age of 94!
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post #8411 of 8417 Old 01-12-2016, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRN94 View Post
If the HDMI is greyed out you are A-Ok. My AT&T cable box (IPTV box technically) outputs low but allows me to change the setting. My PC outputs normal and again allows me to change the setting so I've seen both black levels in action and what the wrong setting looks like given the situation.

I'm guessing the metadata is sometimes not output to the TV so it's unable to figure out if it is low or normal. So when the TV is in doubt it lets the user choose, when it is absolutely sure the TV chooses the correct option.


Also, my screen name DRN94 is simply my initials and birth date... Although I probably wouldn't want to be resuscitated at the ripe old age of 94!
Hi , LOL

Thanks for the info , DNR , geez , U R just a youngster !!

Me , 63 and counting , but still dig`n the stuff that uses the juice !!

And of course movies , so any ideas what Samsung will come out with other than there planed OLED panels ? Or was that LG ?

OK , now I`m worried !! LOL

Later

Me 

Last edited by jedi29; 01-12-2016 at 05:56 PM. Reason: speeeling
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post #8412 of 8417 Old 01-17-2016, 07:46 AM
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@rndthm - Don't buy it from Samsung - they charge an absolute fortune for their extended warranty. I'm not kidding - I had previously received their offer to purchase a 3-year extended plan for my old plasma I had tried out (they thought I still had it I guess), and they wanted around $500 for a 3-year plan!!! Outrageous!

Go with the retailer warranty, or the Squaretrade warranty through Costco (you don't need to be a member of Costco or buy the set from them - you can buy the warranty even though you bought the set elsewhere).
Just did some research on extended warrantys. This is what I found with Squaretrade.

"A minor flaw in SquareTrade's armor is that when you purchase an extended warranty, it runs concurrently with the original manufacturer's warranty. That kind of overlap is generally what you get with most extended warranty providers, but with a great deal of manufacturers' warranties lasting a year, it feels like a waste to have two warranties that may cover the same issues."

This from Consumer Priority Service Warranty.

" A standout feature that very few electronics warranty providers have is a non-overlapping warranty. Typically, you must purchase an online warranty within the first month after purchasing the item the extended warranty is for, and that warranty runs concurrently with the original manufacturer's warranty, making much of the time and extra costs redundant. Consumer Priority Service will start your extended warranty the day your manufacturer's warranty ends. For example, most original warranties last one year. If you purchase a two-year extended warranty from CPS, it starts after that time period. Your electronic device or appliance would then be covered for a total of three years instead of one or two."

Last edited by 70383roadrunner; 01-17-2016 at 07:50 AM.
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post #8413 of 8417 Old 01-24-2016, 12:58 PM
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Has anyone noticed any noticeable improvements between the standard tv/fw and sek2000 evo kit?

Debating about removing mine due to the brief loss of picture that happens every so often.
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post #8414 of 8417 Old 01-24-2016, 12:58 PM
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Has anyone noticed any noticeable improvements between the standard tv/fw and sek2000 evo kit?

Debating about removing mine due to the brief loss of picture that happens every so often.
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post #8415 of 8417 Old Yesterday, 03:19 PM
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USED UN55F8000 for $600?

Hello F8000 Owners -

As background, I am moving on 3/1 and decided to sell my 2 old TV's (sold a 2013 model 51" Plasma Samsung for $420 & a 2008 model 50" Plasma Samsung for $200) and invest the profits into a newer / LARGER TV for my new place. So, I have $620 to put towards the purchase of a new TV and would ideally like to stay under $1,000 total for the purchase. I have been browsing Craiglist and found a used F8000 for $600 (talked the owner down from $800):

//newyork.craigslist.org/mnh/ele/5432367687
- I know that this was a top of the line model at the time of its release and I love the features, remote, etc. The unit looks prestine and would look pretty sexy in the new place. The issue is that it is 2 years old at this point...and doesn't have 4k capabilities. Is it worth it to get this highly desirable model over a new unit?

Also found a NEW Vizio 60 Inch M60-C3 (talked seller down to $850): //newyork.craigslist.org/mnh/ele/5420415860
- This is a new unit so no risk there. Also, it has 4k and is larger...and at $850 appears to be a pretty good deal.

Thoughts? Thanks in advance!
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post #8416 of 8417 Old Today, 01:02 PM
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I personally still enjoy the F8000. There are no 4K over the air channels and while you can get some 4K streaming video from amazon prime or netflix, you have to have really good broadband to get the video. To me personally, I would rather stick with 1080p for now till 4K matures and by then who knows, 8K maybe out. lol.
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Samsung UN75F8000 LED TV, NAD T-777 (7.2 Receiver), Oppo 103, Sony PS4, Panamax MR-5100, 7 Paradigm Reference series 8" in ceiling speakers (AMS-150R) - 30 degree tilting speakers, 2 Paradigm SE Sub, universal remote MX-450, universal advanced RF base station MRF-3501. Pics here.
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post #8417 of 8417 Old Today, 02:20 PM
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"what he said"

Yup , my F8K is going to be hanging around a while too !

Me 
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