Originally Posted by DRN94
TS01 is the original panel that got rave reviews from critics. I have a TS01 panel as well so our picture characteristics should be fairly similar.
Sorry again for that mix up, I cannot believe that went over my head for so long. Your picture should look stellar.
You'll probably notice the white balance values changed, after doing further experimenting it appears Red is the most adjustment sensitive and clips after 30, while green is slightly less sensitive and clips after 35-40 and blue is the least sensitive and doesn't clip at all. So for the contrast ratio boosting trick setting blue to 50 and red to 30 gives the absolute highest contrast ratio possible on the F8000. Then of course you adjust the green accordingly until white is "pure" and close to the D6500K (this is in side by side comparison to the factory calibrated 2014 F8500, Tom's Hardware found this to be nearly perfectly calibrated out of the box, one of the most accurate factory calibrations from Samsung ever).
Keep in mind that with the contrast ratio boosting trick gamma drops on the higher end lending to slightly brighter than normal white detail. To my eye and I would think many others this slight brightening makes the picture have an HDR like pop to it. If you want true reference gamma then you'll have to invest in a meter.
One thing I should point out, my F8000 has a slight greenish/yellowish tint in the center portion of the screen and a reddish tint on the left and right sides. This is normal for edge lit displays as the yellow phosphor'ed LEDs diffuse across the screen. The affect is less pronounced on most TVs but for me the center portion of the screen is what was "calibrated" and the peripheral sides are not. Unfortunately I discovered this tint a couple years after I got the F8000 so I couldn't do anything about it and since I went that long without noticing it goes to show that it's probably not anything to worry about anyways.
The point is you will need to adjust green accordingly to your F8000's tint uniformity. If you don't have the green tint in the center you may need to increase the green gain.
After that your picture should look stunning and almost "mimic" HDR with the added pop on the bright end of the picture.
I will recheck the green tint issue, but haven't noticed anything overly obvious. Thanks for the heads up.
On another note, I meant to mention this a while back, but as I only recently updated my firmware I noticed some peculiar things associated with it.
As of the latest firmware update ( I had not updated for a year or so prior to this ) I've noticed several substantial changes to my picture settings.
1: game mode used to have many of the processing features greyed out and disabled. But now game mode retains "smart led" to "high" from our movie mode settings. I now have to always disable this.
Also game mode allows for auto motion as well as Color space control. It used to default to native.
I may be wrong but I believe most of these if not all were disabled to decrease input lag. Especially smart LeD and the fAct that the setting is not exclusive to the input mode.
2: "natural" picture mode used to be much brighter than movie mode and second only to dynamic. Now I find that natural is very dark , even darker than standard.
Also I did a browser check to test black levels and it appears "natural " is crushing the black levels badly even with the correct hdmi settings.
Not sure what these changes were for but if you have a chance I'd appreciate a comparison.
Also, my tv's picture quality is better than ever. Your settings combined with a great tv have kept me a happy customer. I've also got media player home cinema switching the f8000 to 23.676 (24p mode) anytime I watch a movie on my PC. And the "clear" setting takes care of the motion blur without the induced judder nicely.
I'd like to get a brand new 4K TV but honestly I'm having trouble justifying it with as good as the 8000 is, even 3 years later.