Official Samsung UNxxF8000 Owners Thread - Page 31 - AVS Forum
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post #901 of 7505 Old 05-02-2013, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by BillKen View Post

Very weird, mine auto updated as well even though it was off but I didn't lose any settings as a result. Not real happy that turning auto update off does nothing or that the tv is updating itself when turned off.

I urge anybody that has issues with this type of thing - call Samsung and complain - it's the only way things are going to improve. Otherwise nothing will change. They don't read these forums and they don't care to be honest. They care about people calling and complaining though. They told me last year that they judge what gets put as a priority for updates based on how many calls they get for a particular bug or issue. No calls = no fixes.
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post #902 of 7505 Old 05-02-2013, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

It's not that simple though. Blur reduction is part of AMP. AMP is a feature we're paying for. Saying turn it off is not a great solution. Samsung needs to fix this. AMP custom with judder at 0 and blur at 10 means there should be no stuttering and no soap opera effect, just blur reduction. Clearly though AMP doesn't work properly, even the blur reduction, so as you say, the only real way to stop the stuttering is to turn off AMP. But that sucks for those of us that want to use blur reduction.

With AMP set to "Clear" I have no stuttering. However, with even very mild custom settings (judder and blur at 1 or 2), stuttering occurs. Since I happen to think the clear setting looks good, even for watching the Warriors whoop up on the Nuggets as I write this, I care not about the other AMP settings.

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post #903 of 7505 Old 05-02-2013, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

I went through this same thing. I still haven't found a solution. I couldn't even reset the smarthub because that reset option was also greyed out. Then for some reason it randomly became available, so I reset it. Then after I setup the smarthub options again, the option was available at first, now it is greyed out again. I have no idea what's going on with that option but it keeps getting greyed out for some unknown reason. I have the newest update and it's still greyed out again now.

Also, Samsung has no business updating this set automatically if people turn off automatic updates. Totally unacceptable.

Mine prompted me to update, I agreed, waited about 20 mins for it to complete, and followed the prompt to turn the set off to apply the update. Upon turning the set back on the display read something about applying a camera update (a feature I don't use anyway). All my settings remain, and I can tell no difference with anything else.

I've had my 55f8000 for a couple months now, so it must've been one of the first ones off the truck. Possibly your set is cursed?

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post #904 of 7505 Old 05-02-2013, 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by adrummingdude View Post

With AMP set to "Clear" I have no stuttering. However, with even very mild custom settings (judder and blur at 1 or 2), stuttering occurs. Since I happen to think the clear setting looks good, even for watching the Warriors whoop up on the Nuggets as I write this, I care not about the other AMP settings.

Yeah, but clear still adds some "soap opera effect" which ruins the look of films for me. I should be able to turn on judder reduction in custom and keep frame interpolation off, yet I can't because of the stuttering. So no judder reduction. Last year judder reduction in custom worked just fine with no stuttering. Other presets did stutter a lot, just like this year - but at least I could use judder reduction.
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post #905 of 7505 Old 05-02-2013, 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by adrummingdude View Post

Mine prompted me to update, I agreed, waited about 20 mins for it to complete, and followed the prompt to turn the set off to apply the update. Upon turning the set back on the display read something about applying a camera update (a feature I don't use anyway). All my settings remain, and I can tell no difference with anything else.

I've had my 55f8000 for a couple months now, so it must've been one of the first ones off the truck. Possibly your set is cursed?

I think I'm cursed in general with Samsung. I'm very close to giving up on this set already, but I've got a while to consider things, so I'm trying to give them a chance.

All I know is when I put the update in, it wiped all my settings and when I started the tv back up, all my settings were gone and the illuminated logo on the panel lit back up and the set was back on Dynamic like out-of-the-box.
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post #906 of 7505 Old 05-03-2013, 08:02 AM
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I have a Direct TV HR21-200 set top box connected via HDMI to my UN55F800. I tried to set up the F8000 remote to act as a remote for my set top box but I can’t get it to change channels. The problem is I can’t change channels on the TV or in my Smart Hub.
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post #907 of 7505 Old 05-03-2013, 01:31 PM
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The f8000 remote is a pretty ****** universal remote. Doesn't work with my FIOS box either. Luckily I have a Logitech universal that is great.
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post #908 of 7505 Old 05-03-2013, 02:14 PM
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Well I have the opposite issue with the s/w update. I have auto updates set to On and yet it didn't update my TV. I even tried to manually update the TV, but it says "no update available." I have the 60" F8000 - I doubt that makes a difference though. Anyone have any thoughts?

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post #909 of 7505 Old 05-03-2013, 02:23 PM
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Guys, when I put on the white clipping test pattern from the Disney WOW and AVS discs, I have a contrast issue. In movie mode, the white screen is tinted pinkish a tad bit, and if I push contrast any higher than 88, the grey stars or grey bars turn pin also. I can't put the contrast higher than 88 in movie mode or this happens. In standard mode, I can't go higher than 80 or the same thing happens.

Last year I didn't have this issue with my ES7500 - I had contrast up around 95 and there was no issue with pink. Both test discs say contrast around 95 is fine for this set, but the pink prevents me from going that high. Even if I keep the contrast lower, the white screen is still leaning towards pink a bit. I thought the color on this set was supposed to be excellent. So why pink whites? What do I do - leave the contrast lower just before it turns the stars or bars pink? A calibration is out of the question for me due to cost, other than a Best Buy free calibration, which probably doesn't help much.

I do have a replacement set on the way due to a dead pixel - so maybe the next one will be different? Does anybody else have this pink push in the white clipping patterns?
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post #910 of 7505 Old 05-03-2013, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by RMSko View Post

Well I have the opposite issue with the s/w update. I have auto updates set to On and yet it didn't update my TV. I even tried to manually update the TV, but it says "no update available." I have the 60" F8000 - I doubt that makes a difference though. Anyone have any thoughts?

Sometimes the tv will not detect the newest update for a while - I've had that happen in the past - you can download the update manually from their site and follow the instructions to install it manually using a USB thumb drive - just extract the update folder onto an empty drive and go into "support" on your tv menu and select software update - it will ask if it should check the USB drive for updates if a USB drive is plugged in.
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post #911 of 7505 Old 05-03-2013, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

Sometimes the tv will not detect the newest update for a while - I've had that happen in the past - you can download the update manually from their site and follow the instructions to install it manually using a USB thumb drive - just extract the update folder onto an empty drive and go into "support" on your tv menu and select software update - it will ask if it should check the USB drive for updates if a USB drive is plugged in.
The problem with this is the TV is hanging on the wall and so I'd prefer not to have to take it down just to do the update. I guess I'll just wait for it to update?

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post #912 of 7505 Old 05-03-2013, 03:17 PM
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Hi.
Proud new owner of 55F8000. Traded in (BestBuy buy back) 55D8000. I read through the whole thread/manual and I didn't find answers to some questions I have. What's the deal with the F8000 and Fios Digital STB's? Is the TV able to control the STB? If so, what is the correct way to connect the STB?

I am using all HDMI connections. I have my STB connected to receiver (Yamaha RX-v671) HDMI 2, PS3 to 671's HDMI 1-B-RAY, Xbox 360 to 671's HDMI 3, and the 671's HDMI OUT to the F8000's HDMI IN 3 (ARC). I also have an optical from F8000 to 671. Curious if this is correct.

I have ARC enabled on both the TV and 671. While in SmartHub the TV disconnects AnyNet and I only get sound from the TV's Speakers and it's very very low. Any ideas why?

Thanks!!!
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post #913 of 7505 Old 05-03-2013, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by phoenixone View Post

Hi.
Proud new owner of 55F8000. Traded in (BestBuy buy back) 55D8000. I read through the whole thread/manual and I didn't find answers to some questions I have. What's the deal with the F8000 and Fios Digital STB's? Is the TV able to control the STB? If so, what is the correct way to connect the STB?

I am using all HDMI connections. I have my STB connected to receiver (Yamaha RX-v671) HDMI 2, PS3 to 671's HDMI 1-B-RAY, Xbox 360 to 671's HDMI 3, and the 671's HDMI OUT to the F8000's HDMI IN 3 (ARC). I also have an optical from F8000 to 671. Curious if this is correct.

I have ARC enabled on both the TV and 671. While in SmartHub the TV disconnects AnyNet and I only get sound from the TV's Speakers and it's very very low. Any ideas why?

Thanks!!!
To control a STB, you need to configure the box and then run the i/r transmitter from the back of the Samsung and have the little transmitter box facing your STB. Re AnyNet and Smarthub, it will do that for Skype, but it should not do that for other programs like Netflix, Amazon Prime. I'm not using ARC though b/c I've heard so many people with probs. Instead I'm running just the digital optical out from the TV to my A/V Receiver. You also may need to do some configurations on the Yamaha so it switches to the proper input. BTW - if you're using ARC, I wouldn't think you would need to use the optical out.
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post #914 of 7505 Old 05-03-2013, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by RMSko View Post

To control a STB, you need to configure the box and then run the i/r transmitter from the back of the Samsung and have the little transmitter box facing your STB. Re AnyNet and Smarthub, it will do that for Skype, but it should not do that for other programs like Netflix, Amazon Prime. I'm not using ARC though b/c I've heard so many people with probs. Instead I'm running just the digital optical out from the TV to my A/V Receiver. You also may need to do some configurations on the Yamaha so it switches to the proper input. BTW - if you're using ARC, I wouldn't think you would need to use the optical out.

Thanks for the quick response. I have the I/R transmitter all set up. What do you mean configure the box? You mean the STB?

Unfortunately, the 671 has a known problem correctly switching to the proper input when turned on/when I go into the SmartHub while having ARC enabled. A real P.I.T.A.

I removed the optical and when I play, let's say one of the 3D app documentaries, the sound only comes from the TV's speakers. Am I supposed to connect another HDMI from the TV to the Receiver so the sound comes from external speakers? (Forgive me if, I am an amateur when it comes to AV connections).

Thanks!
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post #915 of 7505 Old 05-03-2013, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

It's not that simple though. Blur reduction is part of AMP. AMP is a feature we're paying for. Saying turn it off is not a great solution. Samsung needs to fix this. AMP custom with judder at 0 and blur at 10 means there should be no stuttering and no soap opera effect, just blur reduction. Clearly though AMP doesn't work properly, even the blur reduction, so as you say, the only real way to stop the stuttering is to turn off AMP. But that sucks for those of us that want to use blur reduction.
Yes, it's a terrible solution. But, it's really the only one. AMP has been broken for several years. That's why I gave up on Samsung. They used to do it right. AMP does not stutter on my 46A750 nor my 52B750.

Back off man, I'm a scientist.
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post #916 of 7505 Old 05-03-2013, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by RMSko View Post

Well I have the opposite issue with the s/w update. I have auto updates set to On and yet it didn't update my TV. I even tried to manually update the TV, but it says "no update available." I have the 60" F8000 - I doubt that makes a difference though. Anyone have any thoughts?

I have the 60 too. Do you have any backlight bleeding on the sides? I do. I'm exchanging it for another. Keeping my fingers crossed.
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post #917 of 7505 Old 05-03-2013, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by adrummingdude View Post

With AMP set to "Clear" I have no stuttering. However, with even very mild custom settings (judder and blur at 1 or 2), stuttering occurs. Since I happen to think the clear setting looks good, even for watching the Warriors whoop up on the Nuggets as I write this, I care not about the other AMP settings.

Now try this. With AMP set to clear, watch something in 3D, then go back to 2D content. Does AMP start to stutter? This happened to me with a 55ES8000 and a 60ES8000. To remedy it, after watching 3D content I would have to cycle AMP from Clear to another setting and then back to Clear for the stuttering to stop again. I returned both sets.

Back off man, I'm a scientist.
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post #918 of 7505 Old 05-03-2013, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by phoenixone View Post

Thanks for the quick response. I have the I/R transmitter all set up. What do you mean configure the box? You mean the STB?

Unfortunately, the 671 has a known problem correctly switching to the proper input when turned on/when I go into the SmartHub while having ARC enabled. A real P.I.T.A.

I removed the optical and when I play, let's say one of the 3D app documentaries, the sound only comes from the TV's speakers. Am I supposed to connect another HDMI from the TV to the Receiver so the sound comes from external speakers? (Forgive me if, I am an amateur when it comes to AV connections).

Thanks!
For configure the STB, I mean when you set up the TV, make sure you pick the right provider and channel guide.

Unfortunately I'm not running ARC and aren't that familiar with it so I can't help with that. For me, I have the optical out from the TV to my A/V receiver and then when I watch anything internal from the TV, I switch my A/V receiver input to the input that is configured for that optical connection and it works great. I have a Pronto remote and a bunch of macros set up so the switching for me is automatic.

I have turned AnyNet off and so keep your setup the way it is and just turn AnyNet off and see if that helps. AnyNet is a PITA and is really only supposed to work with Samsung devices anyway and since you have a Yamaha receiver I would turn it off. ARC should still work and since with AnyNet off it won't switch the speakers from external to internal it should work. In sum, turn AnyNet off, change speaker setting to external, turn off the TV and A/V receiver (you need to do this in order to get sound) and then turn them back on. Then go to the Smart Hub and try it and see if it works, but remember that the A/V receiver must be on the correct input (at least I would think it would need to be).
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post #919 of 7505 Old 05-03-2013, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by RMSko View Post

For configure the STB, I mean when you set up the TV, make sure you pick the right provider and channel guide.

Unfortunately I'm not running ARC and aren't that familiar with it so I can't help with that. For me, I have the optical out from the TV to my A/V receiver and then when I watch anything internal from the TV, I switch my A/V receiver input to the input that is configured for that optical connection and it works great. I have a Pronto remote and a bunch of macros set up so the switching for me is automatic.

I have turned AnyNet off and so keep your setup the way it is and just turn AnyNet off and see if that helps. AnyNet is a PITA and is really only supposed to work with Samsung devices anyway and since you have a Yamaha receiver I would turn it off. ARC should still work and since with AnyNet off it won't switch the speakers from external to internal it should work. In sum, turn AnyNet off, change speaker setting to external, turn off the TV and A/V receiver (you need to do this in order to get sound) and then turn them back on. Then go to the Smart Hub and try it and see if it works, but remember that the A/V receiver must be on the correct input (at least I would think it would need to be).

Thanks once again. I reattached the optical cable and turned off AnyNet and left the 671 ARC on. After switching to the appropriate AV # on the Yamaha remote, the sound is coming from my external speakers.smile.gif.
In regards to the STB, since I'm not going to be using the TV's AnyNet feature, I realized that I can/should of connected the 671 to the TV HDMI(STB). I now have Fios Guide and other features available.

Once again, thank you for your awesome help!

Btw, would I be able to use an HDMI cable instead of the Optical? If so, just use any open HDMI slot available on TV/671? Any benefits using optical over HDMI?
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post #920 of 7505 Old 05-03-2013, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

Guys, when I put on the white clipping test pattern from the Disney WOW and AVS discs, I have a contrast issue. In movie mode, the white screen is tinted pinkish a tad bit, and if I push contrast any higher than 88, the grey stars or grey bars turn pin also. I can't put the contrast higher than 88 in movie mode or this happens. In standard mode, I can't go higher than 80 or the same thing happens.

Last year I didn't have this issue with my ES7500 - I had contrast up around 95 and there was no issue with pink. Both test discs say contrast around 95 is fine for this set, but the pink prevents me from going that high. Even if I keep the contrast lower, the white screen is still leaning towards pink a bit. I thought the color on this set was supposed to be excellent. So why pink whites? What do I do - leave the contrast lower just before it turns the stars or bars pink? A calibration is out of the question for me due to cost, other than a Best Buy free calibration, which probably doesn't help much.

I do have a replacement set on the way due to a dead pixel - so maybe the next one will be different? Does anybody else have this pink push in the white clipping patterns?

Did you try "Natural" color yet, like that Euro review suggested?

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post #921 of 7505 Old 05-03-2013, 06:57 PM
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What are people using for settings? No one seems to want to post them like with the ES8000.
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post #922 of 7505 Old 05-03-2013, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by moonhawk View Post

Did you try "Natural" color yet, like that Euro review suggested?

Well I did switch the Color Space to Native. I had it on Auto previously. Is that what you mean? Native made a slight change in color, but in no way helped the pink situation with the white clipping patterns.
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post #923 of 7505 Old 05-03-2013, 08:47 PM
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What are people using for settings? No one seems to want to post them like with the ES8000.

I think we're all still trying to figure out what we're happy with. Buzzard did post some settings to try earlier on in the thread that you could give a shot.
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post #924 of 7505 Old 05-03-2013, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by RMSko View Post

The problem with this is the TV is hanging on the wall and so I'd prefer not to have to take it down just to do the update. I guess I'll just wait for it to update?

Ah, well then in that case yeah, you would have to wait I guess for it to show up on it's own when it feels like it. You could take a short 3' USB extension cable - I have a couple myself - and plug it into one of the USB ports on the back, and just leave the cable plugged in - that way you can just plug a USB stick into the end of the extension any time you want without having to go behind the tv since it's mounted on the wall. You would just need a safe place to tuck or hide the cable out of the way when you don't need it. I have it like that for one of my media players - so I can just plug the USB stick into the plug and not directly into the device itself every time I need to - it works great, no issues. Just an idea for you.
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post #925 of 7505 Old 05-03-2013, 08:51 PM
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What are people using for settings? No one seems to want to post them like with the ES8000.
did you read the very first post?
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post #926 of 7505 Old 05-03-2013, 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

Well I did switch the Color Space to Native. I had it on Auto previously. Is that what you mean? Native made a slight change in color, but in no way helped the pink situation with the white clipping patterns.

Yes, that's what I ment, sorry.

too bad it didn't help with the pink issue.

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post #927 of 7505 Old 05-04-2013, 12:18 AM
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Yes, that's what I ment, sorry.

too bad it didn't help with the pink issue.

I'd really like to know if others have this pink issue also with their sets and the white clipping patterns. I wonder if my replacement set coming next week will be any different.

Currently I have my contrast set a bit too low I think - the image looks a bit better if I bump it up, and it doesn't hurt the clipping patterns, other than shifting to pink. But I don't know if I should keep the contrast lower to keep the whites from going pink or raise it up higher for better contrast.
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post #928 of 7505 Old 05-04-2013, 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by keeso View Post

I have the 60 too. Do you have any backlight bleeding on the sides? I do. I'm exchanging it for another. Keeping my fingers crossed.

Bleed from edge lit LED is normal. If you find one without it a miracle will have happened.

Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

Well I did switch the Color Space to Native. I had it on Auto previously. Is that what you mean? Native made a slight change in color, but in no way helped the pink situation with the white clipping patterns.

Native shuts off color processing and works best for 3D LUT production such as I do.. Auto does a very good job on the F8000. Custom is for calibrating and requires a meter and software. In all cases the signal then goes to the color decoder where the YCbCr 4:2:2 format is converted to RBG and sent to the panel for display.

If you don't calibrate, use Auto. No other mode will be as close to correct.

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Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

I'd really like to know if others have this pink issue also with their sets and the white clipping patterns. I wonder if my replacement set coming next week will be any different.

It's either incorrect grayscale or clipping red. When red is clipped the brightest end looks blue and this becomes your white reference making lower luminance appear redish.

Buzz
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post #929 of 7505 Old 05-04-2013, 06:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

Bleed from edge lit LED is normal. If you find one without it a miracle will have happened.
Native shuts off color processing and works best for 3D LUT production such as I do.. Auto does a very good job on the F8000. Custom is for calibrating and requires a meter and software. In all cases the signal then goes to the color decoder where the YCbCr 4:2:2 format is converted to RBG and sent to the panel for display.

If you don't calibrate, use Auto. No other mode will be as close to correct.
It's either incorrect grayscale or clipping red. When red is clipped the brightest end looks blue and this becomes your white reference making lower luminance appear redish.

Thanks for the professional insight.

Every LED/LCD I bought had some form of Flashlighting (light bleed).
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post #930 of 7505 Old 05-04-2013, 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by PiratesCove View Post

Thanks for the professional insight.

Every LED/LCD I bought had some form of Flashlighting (light bleed).

I'm new to led so maybe it isn't backlight bleeding I'm seeing. There are three spots (top, middle, and bottom, that stick out maybe 1/8 inch from the bezel and are like 2 inches tall each) on each side where the color is much brighter, (especially in bright scenes). I looked at the f8000 and f7100 in Sears and Bestbuy and none of them have what I do; that's why I think I am not using the correct terminology.
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