Official Samsung UNxxF8000 Owners Thread - Page 70 - AVS Forum
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post #2071 of 7850 Old 07-28-2013, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Jimbos View Post

Wonder why the settings on page 1 of this thread suggest Smart LED off ? What about Cinema Black, on or off?

Some info here: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1463286/official-samsung-unxxf8000-owners-thread/120#post_23135732

and here: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1463286/official-samsung-unxxf8000-owners-thread/120#post_23136666

I'll be doing some more work with Smart LED when I get back down south in October. smile.gif

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post #2072 of 7850 Old 07-28-2013, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by DRN94 View Post

Which firmware version do you have? I have version 1108, I repeatedly told Samsung support to decrease the input lag on PC Mode when I had the latest 1105 and it appears they lowered it because early reviews from all websites never got an input lag reading lower than 40 ms on PC Mode. The first thing I tested after the firmware update to 1108 was the responsiveness in PC Mode and it had felt unchanged. I would have noticed an increase in the response because my 23" TN panel has a 21ms steady and it's clearly more responsive compared to my F8000.

I think the original PC monitor you used deflated the input lag. Only CRT's have 0 input lag, any HDMI capable LCD will have some sort of lag. The lowest input lag on an LCD ever was like 9ms. Keep in mind, HDMI is digital and requires processing, LCD panels update slower than CRT's, it's not analog 1 to 1 so it will have SOME input lag no matter what.

Go to displaylag.com, and look for your monitor in their database, it'll list the input lag for it.

For a moment I got excited thinking samsung fixed the input lag frown.gif
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post #2073 of 7850 Old 07-28-2013, 06:50 PM
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1.) So far I have gleaned 15 pages on calibration from this F800 forum. If anyone wants I can upload a pdf of my notes on calibration.

2.) I just updated to the most recent firmware to 1108. Now on my Smart HUB at Photos, Videos & Music when I go to Video and stream my movies using Mezzmo from my PC, I used to get screen clips of the videos, nice little pics. Now after updating the firmware I no longer get screen clips but just a generic icon for all my videos. It was working before the update, any suggestions?

3.) I have my Direct TV HR21-200 DVR connected to my F8000 with HDMI. It seems that the Anynet+ (HDMI-CEC) feature of the F8000 is screwing around with my DVR outputs by turning all aspects off except for 480p. I have to go into my DVR setup and put things back to 1080i & 1080p in order to get the HD output from the DVR. Is the Anynet feature turning off my settings or is it the DVR?
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post #2074 of 7850 Old 07-28-2013, 07:20 PM
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Hello,

It seems quite few people have had the same problem I had... the TV turning on and off randomly. I figured out it probably had something to do with one of the USB memory sticks I had plugged in. After I removed it the problems went away. I have used other memory sticks and hard drives and haven't had a problem since. Maybe worth a try.
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post #2075 of 7850 Old 07-28-2013, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by *UFO* View Post

For a moment I got excited thinking samsung fixed the input lag frown.gif

The way he wrote the opening of that first paragraph gave me the same thought. Dammit, DRN!

I also want them to improve Game Mode and not just PC Mode, because you can't use Smart LED in the latter. Darker games can look pretty awful without Smart LED.

I do not want to buy a second HDTV just for gaming. I feel stupid for not playing any twitch games during my 30 day window. And I feel upset that all those glowing, initial reviews didn't bother to cover how games performed, too. Every damn review said it was better in every way compared to the ES8000, a set which had great input lag in Game Mode.

I'm not hopeful they'll release a firmware update, but maybe next year's Evolution Kit will speed up its responsiveness. mad.gif
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post #2076 of 7850 Old 07-28-2013, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by AGuy01 View Post

The way he wrote the opening of that first paragraph gave me the same thought. Dammit, DRN!

I also want them to improve Game Mode and not just PC Mode, because you can't use Smart LED in the latter. Darker games can look pretty awful without Smart LED.

I do not want to buy a second HDTV just for gaming. I feel stupid for not playing any twitch games during my 30 day window. And I feel upset that all those glowing, initial reviews didn't bother to cover how games performed, too. Every damn review said it was better in every way compared to the ES8000, a set which had great input lag in Game Mode.

I'm not hopeful they'll release a firmware update, but maybe next year's Evolution Kit will speed up its responsiveness. mad.gif

Im in the same boat. I have the w900a and while it is amazing for gaming and has low input lag, I want a 60" or bigger. I only have a few more days till my return window is up. Sony didnt bother this year with different sizes. mad.gif
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post #2077 of 7850 Old 07-28-2013, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by *UFO* View Post

Im in the same boat. I have the w900a and while it is amazing for gaming and has low input lag, I want a 60" or bigger. I only have a few more days till my return window is up. Sony didnt bother this year with different sizes. mad.gif

I didn't wait for the Sony when I was shopping because I had a poor experience with the HX850 and the list price for the W900A was 3,300 dollars. I'm so mad they dropped it by a thousand dollars the day the thing came out.

To be fair to the F8000, the picture is amazing. 3D is bright and crosstalk free. The smart interface is fantastic. And being able to upgrade the TV without having to buy an entirely new set is a feature every manufacturer should look into. But dammit, the thing I do most with my televisions - gaming - is its worst performing aspect.
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post #2078 of 7850 Old 07-28-2013, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by bekindrewind View Post



Hello eagle 2,"
Just wanted to point out that what one person thinks is suppose to be part of the movie may not be. You say about Digital Clean View, Never use Digital Clean View NR with blu-rays ...It can be used to remove grain from blu-rays, but why on Earth would anybody want to do that? Removing grain means removing film detail.
I gave examples of two movies, Pleasantville and The Dark Knight (blu ray), where DCV (Digital Clean View) is removing the digital artifacts, noise, it's not removing movie grain.

Smart Led setting, personal choice of how you want the picture to look. I'd not be so steadfast that low is the best setting, for it dims everything down including color brightness. (Lots of people who calibrate, Cnet, owners, choose normal as the best setting) People make a choice when using features. You want deeper blacks, too much black may crush shadow detail, contrast may suffer. You want more vibrant colors and brighter whites, black may suffer. Setting Smart led to low may provide deeper blacks but at the cost of brighter whites and brighter color. Or another way to look at it is, some people don't like the end product of a professionally calibrated tv. Some say it looks too blah, a lot of the pop is removed. I'm not talking torch mode, vivid pop either, that's over kill. Samsung and Sony's right out of the box movie mode provides pretty accurate color, black, contrast and pop. Selecting some setting may reduce that pop, like smart led on low.

You also said, Cinema Black should be left on at all times.
Jury is still out about leaving Cinema Black on at all times. I've read it should be off when not watching 2.35:1 content, otherwise the brightness of the image will fluctuate as the LEDs turn on and off, depending on how dark the top and bottom of the image is.

eagal_2 you're a regular poster here and I enjoy reading what you post and the knowledge you bring. I'm sure I'm not the only one who appreciates your input.
Cheers, behindrewind

Thanks for the input and your appreciation!

You're correct, in the end it really is up to each viewer if they are happy with their settings, and different types of entertainment can sometimes gain benefits from features that other types of entertainment might not. A particularly noisy blu-ray could indeed possibly be helped by the digital clean view setting. I meant in general if a blu-ray has been mastered well and has a nice grain structure, it can cause more harm than good to a solid blu-ray master to start adding noise reduction. Especially when some studios do that already sadly. But if a DVD or blu-ray or other source has lots of digital noise that shouldn't be present, then yeah it could certainly help in those cases.

I find that SMART LED does indeed cause some minor auto-dimming, but it is virtually imperceptible compared to how awful it was on last year's models. Standard mode actually just increases the amount / intensity of auto-dimming, and it can definitely cause some clipping. Again, mileage may vary, especially depending on the type of content being watched.

Regarding Cinema Black, I know there's been some discussion about whether leaving it on at all times can cause brightness fluctuations when not watching letterboxed content. I got the feeling that was more to do with the European sets that have a low, med, and high setting vs the US with just on and off. Personally, I have not noticed any brightness fluctuations on non-letterboxed content when Cinema Black is left on, other than when credits roll at the end of a film against an all-black screen - but again that only fluctuates if the credits don't scroll all the way to the top - if they disappear before they reach the top then Cinema Black seems to think that since the top of the screen is all black that it must be letterboxing, and that's when the brightness goes wonky. I haven't seen that happen during regular viewing yet, but I can imagine it is a possibility that it could happen given the right circumstances. For those who do notice any fluctuation, thankfully it's easy to enable just for letterboxed films and then disabled afterwards. As those who have read my posts for a long time know, I get easily annoyed by auto-dimming and brightness fluctuations and I'm really happy to say that in general, I experience very little to none during my viewing on this set. I've really been enjoying it overall.
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post #2079 of 7850 Old 07-28-2013, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by oreb View Post

This TV is very uniform. Even when I turn the Smart LED off it looks wonderful. I'm a stickler for clouding/flashlighting.

On another note, I've noticed the changes with Smart LED off through High but Cinema Black doesn't seem to do anything. I know it's supposed to dim the bars on top and bottom when watching 2:4:1 but every test I've done (OTA, BD, NetFlix) I don't notice any difference. Has anyone noticed a difference with this function on and is there a specific film/show/scene I can test?

Easiest way to see the effect Cinema Black has: pause a letterboxed film, preferably during a bright scene, where the bottom and top edges of the image is bright. Now enable and disable Cinema Black on and off - you should see quite a difference. I'm very impressed with how well it works actually. It does somewhat slightly dim the very edges of the video near the top and bottom edges, and I suspect that is unavoidable with how it works, but that edge-bleed of the dimming is unnoticeable when viewing, and the near-pitch-black bars really improve the experience.
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post #2080 of 7850 Old 07-28-2013, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by DRN94 View Post

Which firmware version do you have? I have version 1108, I repeatedly told Samsung support to decrease the input lag on PC Mode when I had the latest 1105 and it appears they lowered it because early reviews from all websites never got an input lag reading lower than 40 ms on PC Mode. The first thing I tested after the firmware update to 1108 was the responsiveness in PC Mode and it had felt unchanged. I would have noticed an increase in the response because my 23" TN panel has a 21ms steady and it's clearly more responsive compared to my F8000.

I think the original PC monitor you used deflated the input lag. Only CRT's have 0 input lag, any HDMI capable LCD will have some sort of lag. The lowest input lag on an LCD ever was like 9ms. Keep in mind, HDMI is digital and requires processing, LCD panels update slower than CRT's, it's not analog 1 to 1 so it will have SOME input lag no matter what.

Go to displaylag.com, and look for your monitor in their database, it'll list the input lag for it.

I'm currently on ver.1105.2. I ran those input lag tests a few updates ago.I posted some info on my monitor before when I first posted my numbers but here it is again:

http://www.prad.de/en/monitore/review/2007/review-hp-w2207-part11.html

That's a write-up of the monitor I use - the HP W2207. You'll notice the screenshots of his CRT and the W2207 are both identical indicating virtually zero input lag. The only thing that might make a difference is my monitor is actually the HP W2207H, which has HDMI input, which is what I use. I wasn't aware this could make any difference, but maybe the HDMI input causes some lag with my PC monitor, thus deflating the actual F8000 input lag numbers?
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post #2081 of 7850 Old 07-28-2013, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by clayhans View Post

1.) So far I have gleaned 15 pages on calibration from this F800 forum. If anyone wants I can upload a pdf of my notes on calibration.

2.) I just updated to the most recent firmware to 1108. Now on my Smart HUB at Photos, Videos & Music when I go to Video and stream my movies using Mezzmo from my PC, I used to get screen clips of the videos, nice little pics. Now after updating the firmware I no longer get screen clips but just a generic icon for all my videos. It was working before the update, any suggestions?

3.) I have my Direct TV HR21-200 DVR connected to my F8000 with HDMI. It seems that the Anynet+ (HDMI-CEC) feature of the F8000 is screwing around with my DVR outputs by turning all aspects off except for 480p. I have to go into my DVR setup and put things back to 1080i & 1080p in order to get the HD output from the DVR. Is the Anynet feature turning off my settings or is it the DVR?

This should be reported to Samsung, otherwise they'll never know.
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post #2082 of 7850 Old 07-28-2013, 09:03 PM
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Maybe my mind is playing tricks on me because now PC Mode does seem more responsive. Check it out for yourself. I have a 2nd 23" TN panel that has about 35ms and my main monitor has 21ms. The F8000 actually seems in between this time compared to being almost neck and neck with my 35ms TN panel... If you're wondering how I test it, I basically just right click the desktop and you can see how fast the right click menu pops up.

Maybe that guy's readings were right... I'm going to download an actual timer to take a picture of instead of going just by eye. If it's literally gotten as low as that guy claims, I will be a happy camper!

EDIT:

So I did an actual input lag test and it appears the input lag has been fixed!

I used my tablet since it has the best (still crappy) camera on it compared to my other devices. It's a Surface RT BTW. More meant for skype calls, not photography.

F8000 on the left, Samsung s23a950d on the right. Consulting DisplayLag.com, the S23a950d has an input lag of 22ms. So the input lag for the F8000 appears to have been cut in half from the original 45ms. DisplayLag has the UN60F8000 at 45ms in their test. If my tablet's camera is correct it's now in the 20ms ball park because it is pretty much neck and neck with my 22ms Samsung monitor. Picture quality is rough in my picture, I turned the brightness on both displays all the way down and also got a lot of ambient light around the displays. Sorry for that, but the numbers are pretty clear I think.

I've never done an actual input lag test so if I did something wrong, tell me! But I think this is good proof that the input lag has actually improved!



For the record, that Vizio on top of my desk was given to me for free.
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post #2083 of 7850 Old 07-28-2013, 09:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRN94 View Post

Maybe my mind is playing tricks on me because now PC Mode does seem more responsive. Check it out for yourself. I have a 2nd 23" TN panel that has about 35ms and my main monitor has 21ms. The F8000 actually seems in between this time compared to being almost neck and neck with my 35ms TN panel... If you're wondering how I test it, I basically just right click the desktop and you can see how fast the right click menu pops up.

Maybe that guy's readings were right... I'm going to download an actual timer to take a picture of instead of going just by eye. If it's literally gotten as low as that guy claims, I will be a happy camper!

EDIT:

So I did an actual input lag test and it appears the input lag has been fixed!

I used my tablet since it has the best (still crappy) camera on it. It's a Surface RT BTW. More meant for skype calls, not photography.

F8000 on the right, Samsung s23a950d on the right. Consulting DisplayLag.com, the S23a950d has an input lag of 22ms. So the input lag appears to have been cut in half from the original 45ms. DisplayLag has the UN60F8000 at 45ms in their test. If my tablet's camera is correct it's no in the 20ms ball park because it is pretty much neck and neck with my 22ms Samsung monitor. Picture quality is rough, I turned the brightness on both displays all the way down and also got a lot of ambient light around the displays. Sorry for that, but the numbers are pretty clear I think.

I've never down an actual input lag test so if I did something wrong, tell me! But I think this is good proof that the input lag has actually improved!



For the record, that Vizio on top of my desk was given to me for free.

I believe the Input Lag Databse uses the more accurate Leo Bodnar's Lag Tester to find input lag, so their numbers will appear higher than the camera test or other methods. That's not to say Samsung hasn't improved it, though.

And Samsung needs to improve Game Mode, with its high 81ms, rather than PC Mode. I can't stand the blacks and uniformity issues in darker games without Smart LED enabled. If you can test Game Mode and see if it feels better to you, that would be fantastic.
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post #2084 of 7850 Old 07-28-2013, 10:05 PM
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My Surface RT's camera is way to slow to pick up the number properly but without game mode on the input lag was over 100ms :/ couldn't get a clear read on game mode either. I'm actually doubting the PC Mode pic lol I don't have the equipment to get a proper reading.
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post #2085 of 7850 Old 07-29-2013, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

Easiest way to see the effect Cinema Black has: pause a letterboxed film, preferably during a bright scene, where the bottom and top edges of the image is bright. Now enable and disable Cinema Black on and off - you should see quite a difference. I'm very impressed with how well it works actually. It does somewhat slightly dim the very edges of the video near the top and bottom edges, and I suspect that is unavoidable with how it works, but that edge-bleed of the dimming is unnoticeable when viewing, and the near-pitch-black bars really improve the experience.

Some setting you can pull down, have them overlayed on the screen and visually see the difference instantly while the overlay is there. Cinema Black you can not.

You can not see the difference when you have the pull down setting Cinema Black overlayed on the screen. Either in pause or movie playing. Toggle on or off and you will not see the top or bottom bars change from dark grey to black when the pull down is still overlayed on the screen.

Once you've closed out of the pull down Cinema Black, and back to the picture, then you will notice the difference.

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post #2086 of 7850 Old 07-29-2013, 01:51 PM
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Every professional reviewer got much higher results in their PC Mode input lag tests compared to yours. And the exact link you gave me on the monitor is talking more about the response time which is a different ball park to input lag. I mean, my S23A950D has a response time of 2ms which deals with reducing motion blur but my monitor still has an input lag of 22ms, the time it takes for an input to be displayed on the screen. I'm skeptical because from my own observations and what countless professional reviews have said, the input lag for PC mode was more around 40 to 50ms and no where near as low as what you got in your tests.
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post #2087 of 7850 Old 07-29-2013, 02:36 PM
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Does anyone have any insight on the Black Tone Setting of Darkest, Darker, Dark, and Off?
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post #2088 of 7850 Old 07-29-2013, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRN94 View Post

Maybe my mind is playing tricks on me because now PC Mode does seem more responsive. Check it out for yourself. I have a 2nd 23" TN panel that has about 35ms and my main monitor has 21ms. The F8000 actually seems in between this time compared to being almost neck and neck with my 35ms TN panel... If you're wondering how I test it, I basically just right click the desktop and you can see how fast the right click menu pops up.

Maybe that guy's readings were right... I'm going to download an actual timer to take a picture of instead of going just by eye. If it's literally gotten as low as that guy claims, I will be a happy camper!

EDIT:

So I did an actual input lag test and it appears the input lag has been fixed!

I used my tablet since it has the best (still crappy) camera on it compared to my other devices. It's a Surface RT BTW. More meant for skype calls, not photography.

F8000 on the left, Samsung s23a950d on the right. Consulting DisplayLag.com, the S23a950d has an input lag of 22ms. So the input lag for the F8000 appears to have been cut in half from the original 45ms. DisplayLag has the UN60F8000 at 45ms in their test. If my tablet's camera is correct it's now in the 20ms ball park because it is pretty much neck and neck with my 22ms Samsung monitor. Picture quality is rough in my picture, I turned the brightness on both displays all the way down and also got a lot of ambient light around the displays. Sorry for that, but the numbers are pretty clear I think.

I've never done an actual input lag test so if I did something wrong, tell me! But I think this is good proof that the input lag has actually improved!



For the record, that Vizio on top of my desk was given to me for free.

But nobody was complaining that the input lag in PC mode needs to be fixed. What needs to be fixed is input lag in game mode.
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post #2089 of 7850 Old 07-29-2013, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by bekindrewind View Post

Some setting you can pull down, have them overlayed on the screen and visually see the difference instantly while the overlay is there. Cinema Black you can not.

You can not see the difference when you have the pull down setting Cinema Black overlayed on the screen. Either in pause or movie playing. Toggle on or off and you will not see the top or bottom bars change from dark grey to black when the pull down is still overlayed on the screen.

Once you've closed out of the pull down Cinema Black, and back to the picture, then you will notice the difference.

This is true, but the point I was trying to make is if you enable /disable the setting and quickly exit out, you still have time to see the effect kick in. I've done it plenty of times back and forth to observe the difference. I can enable the setting, exit out instantly, and still have time to see the black bars actually darken before my eyes. I might not have been clear about that or explained myself adequately but that's what I meant.
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post #2090 of 7850 Old 07-29-2013, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Justin Sullins View Post

Does anyone have any insight on the Black Tone Setting of Darkest, Darker, Dark, and Off?

My only thought on that is that it clips blacks. The higher the setting the more clipping. I always leave it off. It can give the appearance of deeper blacks but all it's doing is destroying shadow detail. You can see that for yourself by adjusting your set properly using a calibration disc like the AVS disc or the Disney WOW disc, then going back and forth between the different black tone settings while viewing the black clipping pattern. You can see the black tone setting completely obliterate the bars, meaning it's clipping blacks and hiding shadow detail.
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post #2091 of 7850 Old 07-29-2013, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

My only thought on that is that it clips blacks. The higher the setting the more clipping. I always leave it off. It can give the appearance of deeper blacks but all it's doing is destroying shadow detail. You can see that for yourself by adjusting your set properly using a calibration disc like the AVS disc or the Disney WOW disc, then going back and forth between the different black tone settings while viewing the black clipping pattern. You can see the black tone setting completely obliterate the bars, meaning it's clipping blacks and hiding shadow detail.

I've seen it crush blacks as well. On PS3 with RGB Limited what is the correct setting for the HDMI Black Level? It defaults to Normal and is grayed out when watching YCbCr Source like TV or Blu-Ray but can be changed with PS3 Games in RGB Format. Low looks ideal but it crushes blacks as well so I keep it on Normal even if it displays grayish blacks. I've been going back and forth with Normal and Low while playing Lego Batman and although Low looks really good I'm having a heck of a time seeing in darker areas. Black Tone is Off and other picture settings have already been calibrated using Disney WOW Blu-Ray but at YCbCr, not RGB. Could there be some issues with Calibrating with YCbCr and using RGB for Games?
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post #2092 of 7850 Old 07-29-2013, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by eagle_2 View Post

This is true, but the point I was trying to make is if you enable /disable the setting and quickly exit out, you still have time to see the effect kick in. I've done it plenty of times back and forth to observe the difference. I can enable the setting, exit out instantly, and still have time to see the black bars actually darken before my eyes. I might not have been clear about that or explained myself adequately but that's what I meant.

I get what you say, however you never said to exit out.

"Easiest way to see the effect Cinema Black has: pause a letterboxed film, preferably during a bright scene, where the bottom and top edges of the image is bright. Now enable and disable Cinema Black on and off - you should see quite a difference."

I was clairifying explaining that once closed out of the pull down Cinema Black..then you'll see the difference.

Cheers.

Anthem D2v, McIntosh MC205, Elite PRO-70X5FD, Oppo BDP-103, Dish hopper, Richard Gray Power Company 400S, B&W Nautilus, JL audio Fathom f113, Harmony One, empty wallet ;>)
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post #2093 of 7850 Old 07-29-2013, 06:57 PM
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I'm stuck with crappy AT&T U-Verse's over compressed HD streams. Having the black tone on darker or darkest, for me anyways, hides some of the truly ugly compression macro-blocking on the dark tones in the picture at the expense of a little bit of shadow detail. So to me it's worth having the black tone changed for that one source. I actually have my cable box on Dynamic believe it or not because U-Verse's picture clarity is truly awful and the Dynamic is the only setting that makes it pop and viewable. God I hate U-Verse. My mom refuses to go back to Comcast who we had last many years ago. Comcast's picture clarity isn't perfect either but ANYTHING beats U-Verse. I can't wait until I move out and get a proper TV provider.
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post #2094 of 7850 Old 07-29-2013, 07:23 PM
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I suggest we post over on the Cnet Samsung forums, about several issues like the game lag and stuttering ...they have Samsung techs there that seem to listen and if we get a lot of people posting they might be inclined to do something ...here's the link, create an account and post http://forums.cnet.com/samsung-forum/?tag=contentMain;posts
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post #2095 of 7850 Old 07-29-2013, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by CeazeTM View Post

I suggest we post over on the Cnet Samsung forums, about several issues like the game lag and stuttering ...they have Samsung techs there that seem to listen and if we get a lot of people posting they might be inclined to do something ...here's the link, create an account and post http://forums.cnet.com/samsung-forum/?tag=contentMain;posts

http://forums.cnet.com/7723-13973_102-598215/samsung-unxxf8000-game-mode-input-lag-awareness/?tag=contentBody;threadListing

I hope this is sufficient.
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post #2096 of 7850 Old 07-29-2013, 08:07 PM
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I'll cosign your post.
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post #2097 of 7850 Old 07-29-2013, 08:13 PM
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They won't say if they will fix anything but at least we can all voice our concern and they should hopefully address this, I'm going to start a post on the stuttering, I don't have much issues with stuttering tho only on some set top box content but it's rare although I do notice it at times, so if someone who had a major issue would like to chime in that would be great, seems to be no stutter with blu rays on my end.
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post #2098 of 7850 Old 07-29-2013, 08:13 PM
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That's more than sufficient. I created an account and wrote a reply, as well.
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post #2099 of 7850 Old 07-29-2013, 08:49 PM
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I posted!
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post #2100 of 7850 Old 07-30-2013, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRN94 View Post

I'm stuck with crappy AT&T U-Verse's over compressed HD streams. Having the black tone on darker or darkest, for me anyways, hides some of the truly ugly compression macro-blocking on the dark tones in the picture at the expense of a little bit of shadow detail. So to me it's worth having the black tone changed for that one source. I actually have my cable box on Dynamic believe it or not because U-Verse's picture clarity is truly awful and the Dynamic is the only setting that makes it pop and viewable. God I hate U-Verse. My mom refuses to go back to Comcast who we had last many years ago. Comcast's picture clarity isn't perfect either but ANYTHING beats U-Verse. I can't wait until I move out and get a proper TV provider.

I keep the black tone OFF on Blu-Ray and PS3 but I understand what you mean on Cable/Sat. I have Directv and the picture slightly degrades when I turn Black Tone OFF. I have to leave it on DARK. I notice snow in the background with it left off.
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